How-To Front Wheel Bearing Preload Lexus Lx470 / Toyota Land Cruiser UJZ-100
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- This is a how to video on how to break down your front wheels, remove the stubborn cone washers, and wheel hubs to reset your front wheel bearing preload and re-assemble the vehicle. Please read everything below before doing anything. If you are not comfortable with the process continue researching until you are.
DIY Spindle bearing lubrication tool video:
• How-To DIY Spindle Gre...
Some important notes:
The torque value I used on the 54mm nut to set the bearing preload is variable and is not the same for every vehicle. I simply stated what was used to get my wheel bearings to 13 lb ft break away torque value. The break away torque is what determines how tight the 54mm nut is - factory specs are 9-14 lb ft. You use a fish scale to determine what the break away torque is - as shown in the video. I've read threads where people used anything up to 70 ft lb on the first nut. I personally would be skeptical of exceeding the initial settling value of 43 ft lb on the first nut however. Both sides were consistent at around 26 ft lb to achieve 13 lb ft break away. If your threads, washers, and nuts are greasy your torque values will be different than if those items are completely clean.
Setting Wheel Bearing Pre-Load:
Tighten the 54mm nut to 43 ft lb.
Spin the rotor atleast 2 full rotations in one direction to settle the wheel bearings.
Loosen the 54mm nut to hand-loose.
Tighten the 54mm nut to 43 ft lb again.
Spin the rotor atleast 2 full rotations in the same direction as previously.
Loosen the 54mm nut again to hand-loose.
Begin the tightening process to achieve 13 lb ft break away. When reading the break away value rotate the rotor in the same direction as previously. I started with 17 ft. lb and worked up to 26 ft lb on the 54mm nut.
After you torque the 54mm nut, and read the break away torque value, the rotor will spin with very little resistance. This is normal and you should not be trying to set this "free wheeling" resistance to 9-14 lb ft. You should only see 9-14 lb ft once after each initial torquing of the 54mm nut.
Install the locking tabbed washer and then the 54mm jam nut. Tighten the jam nut to 47 ft lb (not 43 as stated in the video).
Tools needed for this project:
22mm lug nut socket
Screw drivers
54mm wheel bearing socket
Fish scale - 0-20# is best for this purpose
Torque wrench(es)
drift / punch
hammer
small sledge hammer
flat blade scraper
brake cleaner
rags
Keep in mind for items like scales, torque wrenches, gauges, etc - that they are most accurate in the middle of their specified range. At the extreme ends of their scales the accuracy of these items diminishes. I searched for a 20# fish scale instead of a 50# for this very reason. If you have multiple torque wrenches, I always pick the one with the torque value most centrally located within the wrench range. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good job and checking and re tightening wheel bearings!
I once said you can't over tighten adjusting nut (1st 54mm nut against claw washer). As frankly most 54mm sockets are hard to hold on the thin nut. I once (no longer), used "hitting 75ft-lbf on adjusting nut". As sign to replace wheel bearings, at the next 30K miles service. Not out of concern bearing bad. The higher the torque we reach to get target (9.5 to 15lb) breakaway preload, the better the condition of bearings & races. My concern was damaging the threads of the adjusting nut going over 75ft-lbf of torque. But someone on ih8mud, did the math. Said the adjusting nut threads, can handle 150ft-lbf without to threads. I've since hit as high as 82ft-lbf torque to get 12.5lb preload.
BTW:
I find new bearings, torque comes in at 45 to 47ft-lbf at 12.5lb preload consistently. Bad bearing I only get about 20ft-lbf for the same 12.5lb preload.
Tip:
1)Never reuse snap ring. If one must reuse, pinch/bend them closed, before install. Or they fit loose, not seating all they way into axle groove. Which damages axle groove, and is why they axle get burns needing to file down to get hub flange off. Sometimes they'll than pop off. Additional gap between them and hub flange needs to be less than 0.20mm. So snap ring needs to be of a proper thickness. Factory thickness is 2.2mm. I use a lot of 2.4 & 2.6mm and even a 2.8mm now and than, to get proper gap.
2) Use brass to pound on hub flange studs, to pop out cone washers. Steel damages the studs. Never hit on the nut, which loose/stretches thread of nut and studs.
3) Don't reuse lock washer. If one must reuse, it must have a good keep/key (inside tab) tab. And never re bent a tab that has been bent back straight.
4) Grease, bearings an wheel hub, need to be, above about 60F. If too cold, we get a false high reading on spring scale, as grease thicken form cold.
This is an underrated comment. Just clicked on your channel and saw your avatar and username on ih8mud the other day (MY ME). True asset to the community. 👍
Very informative. Thanks.
Well done and happens to be exactly what I need to do to my 2000 LC. Thanks for taking the time to document this procedure.
Good job. Thanks for the data. We’ll done!
Looks great. I just had 275/70r18 installed on my '05 yesterday. They looked similar.
Awesome! I enjoy them alot! Gas mileage suffered but power was still decent and didn't even think about re-gearing. I may go 35" next time, still have some time to think about it. Rotate your tires often to keep them evenly worn.
Good job and excellent video to take care of my 2 Land Cruisers. THANKS MUCH
Your welcome!
nice job i’m gonna work on my 2006 lx 470 my front axles flange clunky sound after 225000 miles change axles i’m forgetting to change bearings.
brass mallet will help you better for those cone washers
redgtscoupe I agree
Excellent! Thank you for the detailed video.
Great video, just curious if this took the majority of play out of your hub assembly, or did you have to repack/replace? It did look quite loose, I'd assume that fixed the issue if your bearings were still in good shape...
Yes bearings were fine and torquing the jam nut to spec removed all the play. I did end up replacing the bearings a few months later becuase I was going on a coast to coast road trip and didn't want any issues. I have 50k miles plus another repack on the replacements no issues to speak of.
@@lillyautomotive Yeah, thinking i might check mine when i get a chance, at the very least jack it up and check the play at the wheel
Yeah it's good to check every once in a while. Post some updates
Thank you this helped me a lot
Glad it helped you out
Hey man! All your videos are fantastic. Why'd you stop making/posting them?
Thank you for the kind words. Life gets in the way..
@@lillyautomotive I understand. I hope that all is well with you.
Hey bro, nice work on the truck. Just hoped you set your camera focus manually to avoid the hunting.
Thanks for the tip!
Nice job!
Thank you
Hey bro for that last grease step to grease the spindle bearing you had a little DIY tool. Looks like a PVC cap filled with grease and you might have hit it on the back to shove the grease past the splines into the spindle? Is that how that works? Hoping you can share some info on that so I can save from having to order a tool. Thanks! Great video! EDIT nevermind just saw you have a video for it!
Thanks for the comment and yup I have a video on the tool too!
Nice job man, make more. I have the same truck.
Ditto
Love your videos, definitely subscribed. The book shows measuring preload at essentially top dead center, does it matter? I can get nearly 60 lb ft and still only be about 8, just wondering.
It doesn't matter where you measure preload as long as your pulling 90° around the circle. I'm sure it's easier to do this / visualize 90° at top dead center.
I've read if it takes above 75 ft lb, to get in range, it's time for new bearings at the next service. But I don't have first hand experience with that.
@@lillyautomotive Ah gotcha, thanks. Yeah new bearings and races, i'm going to get close without going over say 50lbs then put some miles on tomorrow and recheck everything. Thanks!
@@IH8CA I would be ok going up to a 75 ft lb max to get in the window.
Я так понимаю, это регулировка? Жаль, что нет русских субтитров
Nice job I need to do this . My 100 Lexus is having play in the wheel like this . I can just tighten it , or do I have to replace the bearing ? I have similar play in both side of the wheel . It’s causing my steering to be a little loose . I thought that the tied rod was going bad so I bought some but haven’t replace it yet .
You can tighten it up and see if it helps. Ideally, I'd take the bearing apart, clean & inspect, reassemble & repack the bearing.
@@lillyautomotive .
@Daniel Lilly, what’s the torque spec for the wheel nuts?
130NM
what’s the recommended service interval ?
Where ya been for six years?
It's only been 6 years? Lol.. I'm still here.
Noob question..what is pre-load and break away? I didn't quite understand why you were torquing/fish scale/retorquing...
Preload is how tight the bearing is being compressed by the double nuts. Too loose is better than too tight but both are bad. Break away is a way to measure the preload placed on the bearing being tested with the fish scale. Toyota specified the range that is acceptable.
Break away is just how much force it take to get the rotor to spin
The tighter the nuts are on the bearing the higher break away reading you will see on the fish scale and vice versa.
What’s the symptoms of a loose bearing? Does it feel like a tire is out of balance?
It can, it would have to be pretty severe. When jack up the front end with a tire or tires in the air, hands at 12 and 6 rock the tire in and out. If there is play the bearings are loose, can also be due to bad ball joints too. Do again at 3 and 9. Play in this direction can be loose bearing as well as inner outer tie rod ends, but if the front spindle is solid and the wheel itself is moving then bearings.
Where did i you find that pull gauge?
Amazon
Tire type and size?
Interco truxus mt - 285-75-16, 33".