Robland X31 Miter Gauge - Fence Install
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Robland X31 miter fence installation. Installation of the Woodcraft 1000SE miter fence made by Incra on the Robland X31 sliding table. A groove was cut in the sliding table to accommodate the bar on the miter gauge. Additional support was added to the back of the sliding table for the miter gauge using 2” by 2” by ¼” angle iron and ¼” by 4” wide flat bar. The groove was cut using a router, guide and a ½” end mill. I originally bought a cheap end mill that would not cut. But a decent end mill and it will cut the groove easily in multiple passes.
This is the cutter that worked easily found on amazon.
Kodiak Cutting Tools KCT166681 USA Made Solid Carbide End Mill, AlTiN Coated, 4 Flute, 1/2" Diameter, 1/2" Shank, 1-1/4" Length of Cut, 3" Overall Length
Thanks greatly appreciated. This encourages me to make some videos of my X31
Any videos you could make that would help the X31 group I am sure would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I appreciate your great videos! I just purchased a grey x31. I want to add the Incra 1000se. I believe I’m capable to duplicate your design, but I’m stumped with using the endmill. Not sure my router can accept 1/2” shank bits. Do I need to pour oil while cutting? What rpm does the mill turn at? Do I make six to eight 1/16” deep passes? Thanks for being such a mentor to the craft!
Make sure you use a quality end mill. I used a cheap one at first and it was doing a terrible job. Ended up getting a Kodiak End Mill 131602 1/2" 4FL and it cut through the cast like a hot knife through butter. I used a 3 HP variable speed router on the lowest speed setting and took passes of of about 0.100"" and made a final clean up pass of less than 0.060". Make sure you have a good fence to ride against. I clamped a metal straight edge to the table and installed a large straight edge base to the router to give it the maximum amount of control. No cutting fluid needed. www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT131602-Diameter/dp/B0070YYP6E/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1KUYAYDU3EJDX&keywords=kodiak+cutting+tools+1%2F2+carbide+end+mill&qid=1677678892&sprefix=kodiak+cutting+tools%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-11#customerReviews
Hello Mr. peep, I just want you to know that I appreciate your videos. I’ve also recently purchased an X 31 and I’m excited to get using it. One question, I was wondering how you liked the addition of the Inca fence, versus building a sled. I know it only has one slot, but I’m trying to get started as cheap as possible. Thank you so much. And thanks for the great work. I also like your Woodmill videos as well.
I like the incra miter miter gage addition because I can take it on and off easily and with the set screws locked down it goes right back on in place. Alot more accurate than the factory setup although today I would probable do a better job mounting it. I am going to make a small parts sled for the sliding table something like the Fritz and Franz Jig. Sam Blasco also has a nice setup using a positioning fence on the side of the sliding table. I intend to make a conventional sled first using the slot and the sled together. The slot in my table is a conventional 3/8" by 3/4" slot. Check out groups.io/g/roblandx31 for information on the X-31. If you do not have the manuals or need setup information you can download them from there.
Hi David nice video and idea on Improving the sliding table fence . where did you get the long blue fence from and do you find there is much play in the fence when at an angle .. just wondering if I go down your route with the fence is to put a locking mechanism on the left of the table to steady it , Cheers from NZ
The blue fence is made by Kreg but you could use 2040 aluminium extrusion as well. At 90 degrees the flip lever at the end of sliding table offers support for the fence. When I cut 45's or the like I have been just clamping a block behind the fence at the end of the table. I have some 4040 aluminium extrusion for extending the sliding table and the top t-slot could be used to lock the fence down. Just have not gotten around to putting it on because at the same time I want to build a swing arm support for the sliding table. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the post. I also have a X31. I am not able to use the sliding table. Try as hell over the years but I am unable to get my table planar and to slide parallel to the blade. How did you accomplish that? Did you use one of yhose sliding table adjusters that some folk seem to have that hold the sliding table rail planar and parallel for the adjusting?
I use a 48" straight edge, 36" straight edge and a good square to do the alignment. The design of the table has more weight on the outside of the rails than than the inboard side so when the scews are loosened off the table naturally dips down on the outside thus making it harder to align. The diagonal adjustment on the rail does not help either. If you are not a member of the (roblandx31@groups.io) i would recommend you join. Bob U. had five sets of the rail adjusters left three months ago and they make all the difference in the world. Since the sliding table is weight heavy to the outside any time you have a long or heavy piece of lumber hanging out off the table it needs to be supported or you can bend the roller brackets throwing the table out of alignment. I normally use a support roller under the outside of the table edge.
What is the thread size where the post goes?
Did you have to mill slot in table? If so how did you go about it? Thanks
the old fence system you have for sale?
hello would you sell your old fence?
Sorry, I gave the fence bracket away a couple of years ago to another Robland X31 owner.