DIY Working Composite Vehicle Armour (stops an AK-47) Part 1: Building
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- čas přidán 19. 02. 2016
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© 2016 Szilágyi Szabolcs
if you run a piece of scotch tape along your cut line before you cut the fiberglass, you will have clean cuts on the fiberglass
Very useful suggestion, dealing with fiberglass recently.
Nice advice!Useful
nice mate.
thank you
@@bodyno3158 ìķķķik
with the hexagonal tile sheet if you take two of them and over lap them it will cover the gaps like fish scales no bullets can squeeze through like the Dragon skin body armour
That's exactly what I did
Just a quick thought on fiberglass, when I build boats and other things from it we have to sand the cured surface before adding another coat of resin or anything really. The resin makes a waxy film when it cures and needs to be sanded off for proper adhesion of the next layer of resin, paint, gel coat ext.
hope this helps
A few things. Using small amounts of 'polyester' resin as used in fibreglass panels made to provide ballistic protection lets some energy be transferred into de-laminating the panels. That is, it's on purpose. Similarly a larger tile will allow more energy to transfer into it [thats what the cracks are] reducing the ability for the projectile to penetrate. Porcelin with the highest wear ratios are ballasticly superior due to being harder. So obviously you have to consider what properties you want, destruction, cost and weight.
Well.......the M1 abrams uses many tiny tiles so I'll go with this guys idea
Larger tiles also means less hits.
Excellent comment!
Small hex tiles 👍
IF YOU ASK ME, I'D THROW OUT THE THE CERAMIC, THE MARBLE OR ANY SUCH TYPE OF WEAR MATERIAL THAT COULD MINIMIZE MULTI-HIT CAPABILITY... WELL, I SAY THAT BUT, IF I WERE TRYING TO STOP A 50 BMG ROUND, OR SAY, A LOT OF THEM, LOL... THEN, I'D PROBABLY BRING THEM BACK INTO THE DESIGN BUT, ANYTHING BETWEEN A HANDGUN AND A 416 RIGBY, NAH... DON'T NEED IT! MY SECRET? TI-6AL-V4 @ .0100" THICKNESS... I WISH I COULD'VE AFFORDED AN EVEN THICKER PLATE, LIKE: .0200" THICK FOR EXAMPLE BUT, THAT SHIT AIN'T FLIPPING CHEAP! LOL...
NOW, TO BE HONEST, I'VE NEVER TESTED UP TO THE 416 RIGBY BECAUSE, I DON'T KNOW ANYONE WITH THAT MUCH MONEY BUT, 308 WINCHESTER, 7MM REM MAG AND LESSER ROUNDS WERE STOPPED BY THIS LAMINATE ARMOR WITHOUT ANY FUSS! WITH THE AFORE MENTIONED RIFLES DELIVERING A BOX EACH AT JUST 10 YARDS! EACH RIFLE TEST GETTING IT'S OWN PLATE... SO, THEY'LL TAKE AT LEAST 20 ROUNDS OF SOME REALLY HOT, MEAN LEAD! ESPECIALLY THAT 7MM MAG.. TOOK THREE PEOPLE TO PUT 20 ROUNDS ON TARGET! AND THAT CONCLUDED OUR DAY, just that one test.. HAHAha-ouch!
DETAILS:
USE 5 PLATES OF TITANIUM,. ONE IN FRONT COATED WITH AN ANTI-SPALL COATING ( TRUCK BED LINER, 1/4' THICK ) 1 OUT BACK & THE THREE REMAINING IN THE CENTER, SEPARATED BY YOUR CHOICE OF WOVEN CLOTH PRE-LAMINATED PANELS, 1/8" THICK PER PANEL, YOU WILL NEED 4 PANELS. YOU CAN USE FIBERGLASS, KEVLAR, CARBON FIBER, & EVEN DENIM, ETC.. STACK THEM AP;PRIOPRIATELY AND GLUE TOGETHER WITH WHATEVER YOU WANT.. I USED GORILLA GLUE... ITS A LITTLE FOAMING AND GOES EVERYWHERE WHEN YOU PUT THE CLAMPS ON FOR THE FINALE SQUEEZE BUT, IT HOLDS TOGETHER NICELY, EVEN AFTER SEVERAL HITS! ONE SOME OF THE TEST PLATES, I USED GAFFER TAPE AROUND THE EDGES SO THAT WHEN THEY FINALLY DELAMINATED, THEY WOULDN'T JUST COMPLETELY FALL APART.. THAT HELPED A BUNCH! HOWEVER, ONLY GLUE THE EDGES WHERE THEY CONNECT TO THE FRONT AND REAR PLATE, NOT ON THE SIDES OR THE CENTER OF THE TAPE... IT'LL SHATTER! THEN YOU WOULD'VE DONE ALL THAT FOR NOTHING... TRUST ME, I LEARN EVERYTHING THE HARD WAY SO, IT DOESN'T HELP. ...NO SIR!
WHEN I STARTED DOING THESE PANELS, I STARTED WITH THE OVER-BOARD, OVER THE TOP 5 PLATES OF TITYANIUM AND THEY STOOD UP AGAINST 5.56 & 7.62X39 WITH NO TROUBLE, AT ALL... & ON UP TO THE 7MM REM MAG.. IN FACT, WHEN TESTING WITH THE 5.56 OR THE AK, JUST GO AHEAD AND SEND ALL THE MAGAZINES DOWN RANGE! LOL, WE HAD THREE PER RIFLE... SO.. IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN THAT, I MAKE NO CLAIMS TO IT HOLDING UP ...NOT BEYOND 90 ROUNDS, LMAO! ... BUT DEFINITELY CAPABLE PLATES, NONE-THE-LESS! BUT NOT CHEAP TO BUILD, NOPE!
THE NEXT STEP WAS TO SEE JUST HOW DOWN SIZING COULD HELP! REDUCING COST AND BUILD TIME BECAME A HIGHER PRIORITY AND WE WANTED TO TRY BOOSTING EFFICIENCY BY SHEDDING SOME UNWANTED WEIGHT & ELBOW GREASE... AND BURN LESS MONEY... BECAUSE THAT WAS DRYING UP QUICKLY TOO ( I WISH I COULD GET MY BIG ASS BELLY TO DO THAT JUST AS EASILY BUT, I DIGRESS... ) I WENT WITH JUST THREE TITANIUM PLATES WITH TWO 1/4" CLOSED CELL FOAM SEPARATER SHEETS, LIKE CRAFT FOAM FOR KID PROJECTS IN BETWEEN THE TITANIUM, LAMINATED WITH GORILLA GLUE AND SPRAYED WITH A SPALL COATING UP FRONT, 1/8" THICK TO START... AND THAT COMBINATION WOULD STOP PISTOL ROUNDS WITH EASE! 9MM, 45 ACP, 40 S&W, 357 SIG,10MM, 357 MAG - HOT ONES TOO, FROM UNDERWOOD AMMO! UNFORTUNATELY, NO ONE HAD A 44 MAG TO TEST THE THREE PLATE VERSION AT THE TIME...
THEN THE 3 PLATE VERSION EVENTUALLY RECEIVED AN UPGRADE WITH SWAPPING OUT THE ARTS AND CRAFT SCHOOL SUPPLIES WITH RIGID MARINE GRADE FOAM BOARD AND THAT WORKED OUT SWIMMINGLY! THE DAMN PLATE WOULD ACTUALLY FLOAT IN THE POOL... WHICH WAS SUPER COOL! NOW, IT WOULDN'T SUPPORT ANY ADDITIONAL WEIGHT & KEEP IT AFLOAT BUT, IT WAS STILL TRICK AS SHIT TO SEE ACTUAL ARMOR FLOATING, YA KNOW?
HOWEVER, IF SOMEONE WERE TO USE THIS SET UP IN A PLATE CARRIER & ON A BOAT FOR PERSONAL PROTECTION... AND FELL OVERBOARD FOR WHATEVER REASON, IT WOULDN'T DRAG THEM STRAIGHT TO THE BOTTOM OR HAVE'EM SCRAMBLING FOR THE RELEASE BUCKLES EITHER! PLATE THICKNESS WAS ROUGHLY 1.25" WITH AN 1/8" SPALL COATING SO, IT COULD FIT MOST CARRIERS. BUT 5.56, 7.62X39 WERE ABLE TO GET THE TIP OF THE PROJECTILE THROUGH THE BACKING PLATE BY A 1/4" ON THE 5.56 AND ABOUT 1/16" FOR THE AK ROUND, BOTH LODGING IN PLACE! BOTH WERE STANDARD BALL AMMO AT STANDARD PRESSURES. NEGATING ANY CHANCE AT AN NIJ LEVEL 3 RATING... DAMN IT! I WISH I COULD POST PICS BUT... IT IS WHAT IT IS! GOD BLESS AND STAY FREE!
Fiberglass is old technology what a lot of governments have moved away from (due to the dangers of particles when hit), cracking, and lower performance - It was what's used in helicopter crew armour as a spall shield (look up "Vietnam chicken plate"), as well as early composite vehicle armour (Land Rover Snatch). You might want to look into buying old police/military vests and salvaging the kevlar instead, sometimes you can find a pile for dirt cheap from companies that does disposal of surplus/outdated/out-of-warranty equipment for the government.
Proper ceramic mosaic tiles aren't "$100" each. It's usually $100 per batch (usually just enough to make 1 sapi plate). Nevertheless expensive unless you arrange to do it in bulk.
Thanks for the information on armor, im craftsman that makes stuff in my garage with scrap. I'm the only person in school ho can actually understands armor, ballistics, and armored vehicles.
It is nice to see people who are interested in subjects such as weaponry. It's hard to test and make armor and other things like weapon since I'm only 1years old.
Oops 14years old
@@hacksawengineering4550 so you 17 now?
@@guxsus13 so you 1 month older now?
@@hasansaleem4983 yes
@@hasansaleem4983 so your a month older now?
i use blue painters tape on my cut lines, and keep half of the tape on the edges until im ready to use the cloth. perfecly straight cuts, and no fiber pulling or warping.
Great job, Young Man. I'm impressed. Think about an ultra-thin layer of aluminum, aggressive adhesive, another ultra thin layer of aluminum, adhesive, your BR tile, then mount to your plate.
Well the way a glass (including ceramic, it's a type of glass) dissipates kinetic energy, is by spreading it out across it's surface area, until the whole thing shatters.
So, the smaller the glass (ceramic) plates are, the less energy they can dissipate. You end up having to weigh the pros & cons of different sized pieces. Larger pieces dissipate more energy. Smaller pieces mean less area compromised by being hit. US car windshields (required to be 2 panes of glass laminated together with a flexible bonding material, to keep occupants in, and deer out), are broad enough to effectively dissipate energy nearly equal level 2 body armor, but only ONE time.
Also it helps to have your fiber weave material arranged with alternating angles, like + and x orientations (this wastes material when cutting from the cloth, but it helps).
Two main approaches are very hard material (but brittle) on very strong material (not brittle). Or a very tough, but lightweight & flexible matarial ("catches" projectile).
Mostly ceramic is used on armored vehicles to resist "active heating" from projectiles with explosives in them (due to ceramic's high temperature resistance). The fact that it is _also_ a type of glass, means it can achieve double-duty as a form of kinetic energy dissipation. So it's ideal in tanks. But against small arms fire, I don't know if ceramic is ideal or not. But it doesn't make a large amount of dangerous "glass dust" compared to other types of glass, so it is at least easier to breath while being shot at.
If I were designing an armor for a light vehicle... I'd go with something which is both hard and strong (like AR500) for the exterior layer. There is a form of AR500 which has a metalic glass seared onto it's out-facing surface, this is very very (very) durable. So durable that it's not even practical to smooth the outer surface. Then under that, ceramic tiles to dissipate energy. Then aluminum structure (mounting, framing, chasis), And lastly a kevlar blanket on the inside which is mounted only by edge grommets, so that it can flex & stretch when pushed on by bullet fragments or spalling. For windows, several layers of tiled tempered glass embeded in a mono-block of polycarbonate. Alternatively though, there's something to be said for just using thicker steel for armor, and letting the armor do double duty as the vehicle's chasis.
Interestingly, soil (sand or dirt) is amazingly bullet resistant. I think there would be some advantages to a sort of blanket of co-joined sandbags. Would be light to transport to a location, and fill with 'armor' on location. Easy to apply/remove. Think "scale-mail" but made of sandbags which attach to a robust webbing. A hidden benefit would be that this would also have amazing RCS and thermal imaging qualities. And if you deliberately did a sloppy job while filling the bags, it would blend in with the local dirt hues. Alternatively if you were tidy and used matte black sandbags, it would be hard to laser designate/rangefind. It would be shockingly "stealthy". Even has excellent radiological qualities. Also, it would be as cheap as dirt. It wouldn't take much to apply grommet pegs to the exterior of a light vehicle to hold it in place. It would effectively be self-healing even, not to mention spalling-proof. To shoot through it you'd need at least .50 BMG, and that wouldn't "go through" exactly (not with any effective energy left), it would just burst individual sandbags, and eventually eat the armor away. It's also a very DIY-friendly concept.
So one of the best light vehicle armors there is (in my opinion) would be burlap, rope, and a small shovel.
I enjoyed your straight to the point approach of your technique and facts.
as an autistic person I can tell you, most people don't. refreshing that you do.
Fantastic job dude!!!
Home made Dragon scales!! Nice! Good work!
Awesome tutorial
+BecauseVideos Thank you.
Wow, great work you're doing here! You got a suscriber, I look forward to your next videos.
+Louis St Pierre Thank you very much. I can assure you that you won't be disappointed.
when you make these used strong forms and clamp them as tightly as humanly possible. the less resin, the lighter it will be, and stronger because there is more glass per square inch
Great job and interesting projects, be good to see in body armour and helmets
thanks awesome video!
Nagyon jo lett a videó! ;)
a channel called "grant thompson (the king of random)" has a tutorial on how to build a styro-slicer, it should work on fiberglass as well.
Eddie Rest In Peace Grant Thompson
Does it cut fiberglass?
wont be as good as grinder i think this stuff dont melt as easily as you think
Best choice is a belt saw no?
works like a charm. testing with panels installed in a junk car, put final product in an F250 to armor the door panels, seats, foot well, dash and back of the crew cab. It does kill your payload capacity though so be sure to check your weight limits.
Good video
2 small tips. Use nylon fibres evenly mixed into the silicon for added strength, and use a spall liner on the rear. High wear strength carpet would do at a pinch, and that could be improved a little too with a hard plastic/soft plastic layer between the steel and carpet|! :)
Hi prior to making your cuts, try placing painters tape on both sides of your cut line (on both sides of the fiberglass).leave about 1/2 inch between the pieces of the painters tape. wipe a thin film of silicone on both sides of the fiberglass. When dry make your cuts and remove the tape.
You have to shift the cloth if you just fold it your stacking the seems so bullet finds a slot if you rotate or use chopped cloth unwoven but it you fold woven cloth you are creating a channel it's able to follow!! Makes a huge difference in amount of layers needed!!!
Should revisit this with the tile embedded in PE backed by fiberglass. Use window urethane too
1:12
* Got multiple hit capacity.
* Light enough for fit on a vehicle.
* Easy to build.
* Durable.
@Jimmy Olano You’re wrong too. It wouldn’t be “Got multiple hit capacity”, it’d be “It can take numerous hits. His second one was right, “Light enough for fit on a vehicle” is wrong, using “for” makes no sense. Your last two corrections is merely just capitalizing. Next time you want to correct something make sure your corrections make sense.
I love this music
The bigger the tile the more kinetic energy it can absorb but the less shots you can get out of it.
To me I'd try for a tile about a quarter of the size of the panel.
Dude...yes! You got a sub ;)
There's a leopard 1 tank in a park near me. Still has 25mm thick ballistic skirts on it.
I made plates like this... Took them into my back bedroom and shot one from about 10 feet away. I still have it and the 9mm round is still stuck in it and did not go through. It was a hydroshock to.
Quietly draws up blueprints of tactical terminator armor
6:00 Sounds very logical!
Smaller tiles make it better to withstand multiple shots but larger tiles can absorb more energy.
So smaller tiles can take more shots but those have to be from smaller projectiles while large tiles can take fewer shots but from bigger projectiles.
The ceramic layer is key in composite armour for converting kinetic energy into the energy needed to crack/break chemical bonds of the parts that keep ceramics together.
If you bolt the steel plate layers together, it will increase the bulletproofing capabilities of the tile
Maybe looking into two part silicones makes your life a bit easyer. You can buy some that are quite liquid so they flow between the tiles. Also the regular silicone doesn't cure very deep, just the surfaces that is contatct with air.
I have subbed to you i am hopefully going to do this to my car in the future
Thank God this can stop not only the AK round but the AK its self 😂
Super work bro , greetings from India , working on a similar project ; subscribed , looking fwd to more videos !!!
+Noel love Thanks, I'll check out yours too!
Grinding that epoxy and inhaling the smoke is infinitely more dangerous than the fiberglass dust. It can be lethal. Friend of mine once just collapsed to anaphylactic shock after cutting cured epoxy. he wasn't allergic or anything to it. But he survived because workmate was fast and ambulance was fast there. But now he cannot be in vicinity of raw or cut epoxy. He will get the shock immediatelly.
I was thinking of trying polycarbonate plate sandwiched in sheets of carbon Kevlar fabric and window security film with a resin undecided, or carbon Kevlar hard sheet with Kevlar fabric and security film, layer it shoot it, layer it until it doesn't get penitrated or gets rediculous cost or size wise, I've been in love with the bullet proof sports car concept since Knight Rider. I'm trying to make a ballistic bump cap insert, I doubt I'll be successful, I like to be completely concealed, firearms, body armor, etc.
pretty fucking amazing. subbed.
Eyy fellow Hungarian!!
Those tiles seem way to small to me. You're almost guaranteed to hit the space between them and it's like shooting a tile that's already shattered. Why not use slightly larger plates, maybe 4 cm by 4 cm? ooh I have a good solution use two layers of plates that are offset!!
I have been planning to biuld a full suit like this and I dicided I would use hexigons because it can rap around the curved armour, so it's funny you may have had a simmilar idea
I feel the ceramic should be enclosed in the fiberglass to lower spalling
Would Kevlar be more effective than carbon fiber for this project?
Should have applied thin coat of epoxy prior to cutting your sheet, pro tip💪
3 direction layups have been proven best for this application. Might check out u.s. d.o.d./army based research papers
👍👏..but did you test it with a YT film so we can see it?
where did you buy the fiber glass ? any place for the cheapest price ?
What about 2 layers of honeycomb tiles offset so there are no gaps?
How many layers on fiberglass?
Cut the fiberglass with a heat knife?
Why didin't you just FOLD it instead of cutting it?
BTW, some sky-high priced item are sold on bucks, like 100$/1kg.
next time when you cut the fiberglass before you cut it take you there masking tape or painters tape and put it across the fiberglass then draw your line and cut it that way the fiberglass will not fray so that you don't have it start unraveling it'll make it easier to put the leftover away and work with the other part of the fiberglass
+Ed Leska Yes that is a useful tip, next time I'll definitely do it this way.
thanks for showing this idea of making bulletproof materials‼️
my friends and relatives in Ukraine fighting for their country and their families with strongest and dangerous aggressor in the world
we looking for every way to help them save lives
if you can please help to develop level 3+ level 4 improvised DIY step by step method to make SAPI plates for our patriots and civilians in Ukraine
easy made stand alone plate has to withstand against 7.62×39 LPS Mid Steel Core and 7.62×54R LPS Mid Steel Core rounds which Russian army troops commonly uses
in general it equals 30-06 rounds but have some specifics such as a small steel penetrators inside bullets in the middle ...
Very impressive engineering. Are you using normal laminating resin?
+Paul Furber Thank you! Yes I do. It was advertised as laminating resin for fiber reinforced composite systems.
PrepTech
If you want to spend, silk and carbon fiber.
Use CLEAR packaging tape over the lines on both side thst your cutting. It will keep the edges from fraying and theres no need to remove the tape either.....your welcome
Does it stop 5.56 green tip?
Nice one, i had some scrap carbon fiber that i made a plate of, for shits and giggles, was about 12mm, didn't even stop a .22, but the energy was starting to diffuse in the last mm or 2.
One piece of advice, use a much stronger press, there's way too much resin left in that fiber.
Or use vacuum bagging with breather cloth to suck up the excess.
+Boris2k Yeah thanks for the advice, I would use vacuum bagging if I'd have one :D I assume it wasn't a very dense carbon fiber then.
No, CF just isn't mechanically suitable.
You don't need a special vacuum pump, i have a hand pump i use to finish pulling vacuum through the 8 cent check valve, normal vacuum cleaner to pull the majority of the air out first though.
Just come back every 15 minutes or so and give it a pump in case you've had some gas out or what not, but you should never have a vacuum leak.
The pumps for brake bleeding are perfectly suitable, though the one I bought came with all sorts of adapters.
Edit: Also you might be surprised how cheap the "consumables" like the plastic and the sealant for the bags are.
When will I need vehicle armour???
I did a little research on Alibaba, aluminum oxide plates are dirt cheap, I think they can do better than just normal mosaics, and if you want go for full nuts, those silicon carbide plates' price are not their actual price, you will need to contact the dealer for actual price.
Would it be better if the fiberglass sheet layers were layered in different interlaced directions? Wouldn't it catch projectiles better?
Yes
Pozdrowienia z Polski
This is an amazing work. It is obvious you spent a lot of time thinking about this. Are you an Engineering/Materials Science graduate per chance?
No, I'm an engineer, but not in that field. I'm interested, but only on a hobby level. For now.
@@PrepTech any updates on this? With times in the US as they are this is a very worth while investment for the safety of yourself and family
Floor tiles are added weight with no balistic value.
You are wrong. The only way for modern armour to stop bullets from rifles is with ceramic or similar materials. The problem here is that the ceramic tiles are too small and too thin (the hexagon ones) or just way too small and not good material for the marble ones.
Weight?
Was that an orb floating at 0:28-0:31, on the lower part of shirt/stomach-level?
Ghostly
hey you are in Budapest?? I'm reinforcing a cheap (supposedly) IIIA chinese PE plate with fiberglass, kevlar and mosaic ceramic tiles!
Ez az akcentus már nekem is fáj. :D
Az üvegszálszövet rétegeit elbszokták forgatni egymáshoz képest. Gondolom az is ad némi plusszt.
What happened to this guys channel
3:16 Aprox. 50 kilograms.
One more thing.. . Think of a tank and how it has evolved since World War II. The Russians and soon after the Germans realized that sloping armor would cause projectiles to Ricochet or bounce off. Who says someone couldn't with imagination and patience somemade at home or in a shop some sort of armor that is light but also has angular portions where vital organs are. I can almost guarantee you would have significant protection. In my mind the 223 depending on the angle of the shot would either bounce off or take some of the muzzle energy away from the target area. The only major problem I can see is different angles enemy fire would come from so a solution would be necessary course a 90-degree angled shot would have the same effect as yours only it would hit a void so a slightly different design could be a thought like small pyramid-shaped projections from the armor. I can almost without a doubt say that this type would obviously have a cost/benefit coefficient and probably would not be able to be created in mass production but who knows in this day and age. When you're a tinkerer overtime you gain knowledge on what works and what doesn't and you obviously have a lot of knowledge and give many people ideas. I have attempted to make some of your projects, some of them with success and others with complete and utter failure but that's how you learn. I'm sure this sort of armor would not be well-received with military personnel because of the extra weight because if you were to flatten out these plates the patterns of small pyramid-shaped projections would add more surface area thus more weight. But I am very confident that if it works on tanks then scaled-down there would be no reason that it couldn't be used by the public if(armageton) was to come to fruition the resources and tools were available to people which they are. Just imagine what your adversary would think. I absolutely think that's a little bit optimistic but it sure is fun to think about it and get a few Chuckles
Wow, that's a lot of steps for a weaker armor than the guy at ZNA productions.
Maybe it's the type of fiber glass used?
The guy from ZNA productions only stopped shotgun slugs tho, it didn't even stop 5.56 rounds
Why did u stop making videos
Marble mosaic:Ceramic mosaic:Fiberglass cloth:Epoxi resin:. Fleece: , light clothingheavy-duty work pantsHessian fabricOrganic solar cells on fibers[ (wearable tech)
Thanks very useful when I get drafted for ww3
Good job.... not to be a buzz kill but would ar 500 steel plates be cheeper and easier?
no and would make the vehicle super heavy heavier
Can I wear this
Stainless was best choice... Very hard to break the slug
A hard plastic may be better to prevent spalling
Nice 😎🇵🇱 sub for you
Hú de hallatszott a magyar akcentus de jó lett a videó. XDD
Would you consider doing a video on plastic armor from WW2?
Thegauntlet04 what do you mean
Sell it on ebay ill buy it made
Why not simply use a 1/4" AR500 steel plate?
It's not readily available. Additionally it's difficult to drill, weld, etc. Also, supposing you're improvising, how the hell do you identify a piece of ar 500 from a piece of mild steel?
You can cut it with a cutting torch, drill it with a carbide mason bit crazy sounding but it works , ID it with a file if it bites deep its mild steel if it sings off its ar500 , as far as welding it goes for a 1/4 you could us a 7018 rod with a pre heat or if you want to get fancy a e11018 with a pre heat
And the other part of that is just about every sawmill, rock quarry, mine, or industrial area has it pretty much laying around search the local scrap yard
I don't understand why none of the diy armor videos I've seen are laminating the other layers inside fiberglass instead of just gluing them on... 🤷♂️
Even a thin envelope of 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass would provide FAR better adherence than glue, I'm pretty sure... 🤔
Hello (#magyar)
I just think it's a little inappropriate, but no one could ever use it to a bad purpose, am I right? Good video though.
How is it inappropriate?
This failed doing penetration from 7.62x39. not worth watching. Just buy plates from a manufacturer
still better than nothing
00:46 his shadow looks like Donald Trump
Lol kinda does...just outta shot is the parasite pulling his strings..
Make israel great again trump 2020 🙄
You did not show test shots All I see is a theory asking for support.
Are you hungary?
Isnt it smarter to just stack 5 or 6 of the aluminum sheets together?
Compositions provides multiple hardness, density and mass that lessens the projectile's energy each material it goes through. It works more efficiently rather than just one material also it may reduce the weight or material application depending on the type of materials used in the armor composition.
hát rendben
you are speak too fast. try slow down. i need to respond though XD
lol magyar
Hey bro, i enjoyed the content but its pretty difficult to understand you through your accent, id recommend a better mic
magyar vagy ? xddd