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I've done that hegagon idea, another option for place of the fiberglass is welding blanket

Why did u stop making videos

Nagyon jo lett a videó! ;)

Grinding that epoxy and inhaling the smoke is infinitely more dangerous than the fiberglass dust. It can be lethal. Friend of mine once just collapsed to anaphylactic shock after cutting cured epoxy. he wasn't allergic or anything to it. But he survived because workmate was fast and ambulance was fast there. But now he cannot be in vicinity of raw or cut epoxy. He will get the shock immediatelly.

Don't understand why you set them up different how can you expect to get answers?

You have to shift the cloth if you just fold it your stacking the seems so bullet finds a slot if you rotate or use chopped cloth unwoven but it you fold woven cloth you are creating a channel it's able to follow!! Makes a huge difference in amount of layers needed!!!

You should do a double layer of ceramic tile, so that the gaps of one over lap the center of the layer under it, I hope you can make sense of what I am suggesting

Good job fam💯💯💯

3 direction layups have been proven best for this application. Might check out u.s. d.o.d./army based research papers

What happened to this guy? Any more vids?

Home made Dragon scales!! Nice! Good work!

Excellent video! Perhaps try porcelain tiles rather than ceramic. They're much harder.

How would this be attached to a vehicle?

hát rendben

Stray tuned for more... 7 years later... you guys think the CIA got him?

Just a quick thought on fiberglass, when I build boats and other things from it we have to sand the cured surface before adding another coat of resin or anything really. The resin makes a waxy film when it cures and needs to be sanded off for proper adhesion of the next layer of resin, paint, gel coat ext. hope this helps

Does it stop 5.56 green tip?

2:29 good thing the safety glasses are protecting the top of his head!! You see debris fly back past him. 😮

If you bolt the steel plate layers together, it will increase the bulletproofing capabilities of the tile

Pistol bullets arent designed to penetrate especialy the 45 auto. The best old pistol cal. round for penetration is the necked down 7.62x25. Nowdays there are several pistol rounds designed for penetration ie the 5.7.

Very cool video and experiment. Seems like even the steel plate and ceramic by itself does a good job of dealing with the normal street gang bulllets. The best part is, you would be able to drive out of danger before they realize their shot are not getting through

Aluminium oxide is extremely good for blunting even hard steels, if you made a sheet of aluminium oxide and put it either in front of or just behind the tiles the round will have deformed and gained slight imperfections before even hitting the fiberglass, more surface area means a slower progression through the layers and faster rounds may be effected more than slower ones. Angled armour works really well too, they use panels angled at specific degrees on tanks to double or triple the thickness of material interacted with.

Aluminium oxide is extremely good for blunting even hard steels, if you made a sheet of aluminium oxide and put it either in front of or just behind the tiles the round will have deformed and gained slight imperfections before even hitting the fiberglass, more surface area means a slower progression through the layers and faster rounds may be effected more than slower ones. Angled armour works really well too, they use panels angled at specific degrees on tanks to double or triple the thickness of material interacted with.

When will I need vehicle armour???

Well the way a glass (including ceramic, it's a type of glass) dissipates kinetic energy, is by spreading it out across it's surface area, until the whole thing shatters. So, the smaller the glass (ceramic) plates are, the less energy they can dissipate. You end up having to weigh the pros & cons of different sized pieces. Larger pieces dissipate more energy. Smaller pieces mean less area compromised by being hit. US car windshields (required to be 2 panes of glass laminated together with a flexible bonding material, to keep occupants in, and deer out), are broad enough to effectively dissipate energy nearly equal level 2 body armor, but only ONE time. Also it helps to have your fiber weave material arranged with alternating angles, like + and x orientations (this wastes material when cutting from the cloth, but it helps). Two main approaches are very hard material (but brittle) on very strong material (not brittle). Or a very tough, but lightweight & flexible matarial ("catches" projectile). Mostly ceramic is used on armored vehicles to resist "active heating" from projectiles with explosives in them (due to ceramic's high temperature resistance). The fact that it is _also_ a type of glass, means it can achieve double-duty as a form of kinetic energy dissipation. So it's ideal in tanks. But against small arms fire, I don't know if ceramic is ideal or not. But it doesn't make a large amount of dangerous "glass dust" compared to other types of glass, so it is at least easier to breath while being shot at. If I were designing an armor for a light vehicle... I'd go with something which is both hard and strong (like AR500) for the exterior layer. There is a form of AR500 which has a metalic glass seared onto it's out-facing surface, this is very very (very) durable. So durable that it's not even practical to smooth the outer surface. Then under that, ceramic tiles to dissipate energy. Then aluminum structure (mounting, framing, chasis), And lastly a kevlar blanket on the inside which is mounted only by edge grommets, so that it can flex & stretch when pushed on by bullet fragments or spalling. For windows, several layers of tiled tempered glass embeded in a mono-block of polycarbonate. Alternatively though, there's something to be said for just using thicker steel for armor, and letting the armor do double duty as the vehicle's chasis. Interestingly, soil (sand or dirt) is amazingly bullet resistant. I think there would be some advantages to a sort of blanket of co-joined sandbags. Would be light to transport to a location, and fill with 'armor' on location. Easy to apply/remove. Think "scale-mail" but made of sandbags which attach to a robust webbing. A hidden benefit would be that this would also have amazing RCS and thermal imaging qualities. And if you deliberately did a sloppy job while filling the bags, it would blend in with the local dirt hues. Alternatively if you were tidy and used matte black sandbags, it would be hard to laser designate/rangefind. It would be shockingly "stealthy". Even has excellent radiological qualities. Also, it would be as cheap as dirt. It wouldn't take much to apply grommet pegs to the exterior of a light vehicle to hold it in place. It would effectively be self-healing even, not to mention spalling-proof. To shoot through it you'd need at least .50 BMG, and that wouldn't "go through" exactly (not with any effective energy left), it would just burst individual sandbags, and eventually eat the armor away. It's also a very DIY-friendly concept. So one of the best light vehicle armors there is (in my opinion) would be burlap, rope, and a small shovel.

Steel/ceramic/steel/fiber composite might be better. Glue ceramics in place with a semi flexible construction glue. Steel might need a primer coat. Containment and preventing flexing of the ceramics is key to getting the most performance out of them. I have seen examples where alumina ceramics embedded in cast aluminium were backed by 1mm stainless steel plates to increase stifness.

You shouldn't have a metal layer in front of the ceramic. The bullet needs to run into the ceramic. It causes an extreme dampening of the bullet movement and catches it in a pocket of dust. The metal Infront of the ceramic adds the bullet in creating a cone shape and going right past the ceramic. I bet if you removed the front layer of metal it would of worked better. Iv seen two floor tiles with a thin veneer plywood and 16 gaude steel back survive many 5.56 green tip and one ak47 round before it was done working.

Marble mosaic:Ceramic mosaic:Fiberglass cloth:Epoxi resin:. Fleece: , light clothingheavy-duty work pantsHessian fabricOrganic solar cells on fibers[ (wearable tech)

I feel the ceramic should be enclosed in the fiberglass to lower spalling

when you make these used strong forms and clamp them as tightly as humanly possible. the less resin, the lighter it will be, and stronger because there is more glass per square inch

If you want to spend, silk and carbon fiber.

I am surprised more people do not used silk and fiberglass

Something like a high-powered rifle round would very likely be fired from a greater distance than pistol range, which may diminish the bullet energy enough to make a difference in the penetration. Thanks for these very detailed and informative videos!

works like a charm. testing with panels installed in a junk car, put final product in an F250 to armor the door panels, seats, foot well, dash and back of the crew cab. It does kill your payload capacity though so be sure to check your weight limits.

Aztahétmeganyócát.

Use CLEAR packaging tape over the lines on both side thst your cutting. It will keep the edges from fraying and theres no need to remove the tape either.....your welcome

I made plates like this... Took them into my back bedroom and shot one from about 10 feet away. I still have it and the 9mm round is still stuck in it and did not go through. It was a hydroshock to.

To bad you stopped I loved the content.

Great work! I would consider bonding the tiles to the plate before applying the silicone. Silicone interferes with the bond.

Amazing!

Hes still in an EU gulag for being awesome

You can harden the steel to make it stronger

There's a leopard 1 tank in a park near me. Still has 25mm thick ballistic skirts on it.

Can the fibre glass be laid out at right angles and improve efficiency?

hey you are in Budapest?? I'm reinforcing a cheap (supposedly) IIIA chinese PE plate with fiberglass, kevlar and mosaic ceramic tiles!

Excellent content! Why did you stop making videos? Are you ok?

Hi, did you use standrad military amunition? Because it has soft-steel core and penetrates much more then hunting bullets.

Nice 😎🇵🇱 sub for you

That's sweet! You need a smaller scale armour to test individual rounds.

thanks for showing this idea of making bulletproof materials‼️ my friends and relatives in Ukraine fighting for their country and their families with strongest and dangerous aggressor in the world we looking for every way to help them save lives if you can please help to develop level 3+ level 4 improvised DIY step by step method to make SAPI plates for our patriots and civilians in Ukraine easy made stand alone plate has to withstand against 7.62×39 LPS Mid Steel Core and 7.62×54R LPS Mid Steel Core rounds which Russian army troops commonly uses in general it equals 30-06 rounds but have some specifics such as a small steel penetrators inside bullets in the middle ...