Punching down 4-pair cable on 66 block
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- How to terminate 4-pair UTP copper cable on 66 punch-down block. This is for station cabling. This terminates the wires that run between the phone closet (or phone room) and the telephone jacks on the walls.
As someone who has been doing network engineering work for the NYC DOE for the past 3.5 years, everyday I would see these 66 blocks and was curious how they worked. They're in the same room of every school MDF and there's also a telecom rack that from what I believe is how it goes from this block and become digital. At 8 mins into the video when you recapped and explained what that wire is doing it hit me. It's exactly like an ethernet patch panel and just terminates as a jack on a wall, then the 110 block makes sense also as to how the cable you just punched down gets its signal. Thanks!
It has been quite a while since I used my punch tool on the 66 block but as it happens, I want to install 2 phone lines up in my attic/computer room. The wire has been run and before I fanned out the wires at the 66 block, I wanted a refresher on what order the 4 pair are cut down and more importantly -- how to punch down correctly. The video was enormous help in jogging my memory. Kudos to provide a clear and concise documentary
Ah! so happy I could help Alan. Good luck, sir! :-)
Recently passing CompTIA A+ & currently studying CompTIA Network+ this is part of the material that I did not understand. Thankyou for clarifying the 66 punchdown block is for telephone systems not for ethernet patch panels & giving a demo.
I was looking for Stevie Ray Vaughan's song "Texas Flood" (..flooding down in Texas, all the telephone lines are down...) and noticed this vid in the mix. I was a Telco repairman for 30 years (CO & PBX) and just had to watch. What a flashback!
Too bad you don't have an MDF to show the youngun's how to do a running jump onto a rolling ladder to get it to roll down to where you need to solder a jumper. Or how to toss safety cones so they land in a stack. Thanks for the memory jog!
Good ol SRV! Gone too soon. 😟
Glad you enjoyed the video. Rolling ladders in the MDF? Whoa, sounds big! Like a CO maybe? Serviced a few large switches but nothing that big! 😄
Had to replace a problom block on our ancient system and didn't want to pay a telephone tech the gobs of moolah. A $7 punch on ebay solved the problem and saved the day. Thank you for this how to.
That’s excellent! 👍😊
I have no use for this information, but it was clear, and I totally understand what and why it is being done. Thanks!
Let me add, sir, great little series on punch downs ... the loss of wired telephone circuits for voice these days is a big loss for us linemen and local service telephone repair personnel. We're still around to service the cel phone carrier lines which is still landline based at it's core ... but soon those too will be gone. Sad to see such a thriving industry as the wired network of communications going south.
I feel you Gordon.. I"m going to miss copper analog voice. Unfortunately, business votes with the dollar. And, the low cost of cloud-based VoIP is making it real hard for the RBOCs to make money maintaining that copper plant. What I will miss the most is the Telco "Craft'. My dad was a pre-1984 Bell guy. And, he taught me the craft (but I never worked for Bell). But, today there isn't much in the way of professional standards. PBX closets are usually a joke most of the time.
Really appreciated your comments sir!
@@DIYTelecom They really are. Even the one set up in our office back in '95 (which we bought used) was set up so ridiculously that adding new stations to the block is a nightmare. Trying to learn on it is terrifying, so we're just looking into VoIP as an alternative since it's web-based and has more configuration that's also more user-friendly. I still want to learn these old systems but hell, trying to make sense of our own system is insane!
Grateful for these videos. I work in residential alarm service but find these blocks EVERYWHERE. Rich motherfuckers used to have telephone lines to every room of the house.
right? I used to do a lot of wealthy residential work back in the day (Greenwhich CT, White Plains NY). See some strange things.🤷🏻
Thank you for the explaination!
Dude, I've been using the wrong tool for about three months now getting do frustrated wondering why this has ever been a thing. Just ordered the right tool. Hopefully, with these tips and the correct tool, the rest of this job will go much smoother. Why wasn't I shown this before?
You only used the left 2 columns. What are the right 2 columns of pins for ?
Thank you for helping out
Nortel? A name I haven't heard in a long time. A LONG time
Ahahhaha right? 😄. If you miss it, I Have plenty of it here:
CZcams.com/thenortelguy
Can Voice and Data be punched down on the same 66 clip?
Havent done this work in years.
Thanks.
Very helpful - thank you for posting!!
The punchdown tool usually has "Cut" engraved on one side which shows the side that has the knife on it. The tip only fits into the tool one way. You can see it in this video at 4:01
that's a good point. However, my Dracon-Harris punch tool is about 15 years old, so it may be different. I can flip the 66 or 110 blade either way (Cut or no-cut).
Appreciate you bringing that up. Thanks :-)
what is the reason every time I ( elevator tech) am asked to hook up the new elevator phone line the telco guy didnt bother actually landing to the old elevator phone terminals, I trace the line and it is connected to no less than 5 of these sets of terminals before it gets to where it needs to go? is that some kind of impedance matching technique?
Nothing to do with impedance. It's not uncommon for an analog line to be cross-connected through several of these 66 blocks before it finally reaches the PBX (or telco demarc). I could see why that would be confusing and frustrating to you.
I noticed the block you show seems to have split pairs .... which means to patch the left two pins to complete to the right two pins you'll need a bridge clip, otherwise the right two pins are not carrying the signal path.NEXT LESSON - How to Climb a Utility Pole and have a cool lunch on a hot day on the ground ;) Be Well.
yes, definitely a split 66 block. in the interconnect biz, that about all I run into since the 1A2’s went the way of the dinosaurs. 😉
Man, I would love to see some video footage of pole climbing. I’ve never done that. Thanks for commenting!!
@@DIYTelecom man I remember climbing a pole for at&t near a train track maybe 10 years ago. It’s super sketchy up top. Swaying like crazy every time I moved. Easily 40ft up. Man I’m glad I don’t have to do that anymore
I need to ask what I hope is not a ridiculous question. I do IT and for me the 110 on a patch panel is what I'm used to. I unfortunately have to deal with these dreaded things every now and again and I don't understand them. Can you answer me a couple questions?
1. Normally what I encounter is the station cable on the left most peg like you have it, and the PBX on the rightmost peg (#4, not #2). It seems sometimes there is a bridge cap there on 2 and 3 to carry it across. Sometimes not. Example of a recent encounter: PBX ext 70 was bridged to station 9 with a cap. PBX ext 81 was bridged to 6 with no cap or bridge wire, but seemingly the extention worked. I don't understand the point to this really - its very readable, but the mix and match has me confused.
2. How do you bridge when you have an analog line to go to 2 places? I know it's a no-no to punch down 2 on one post. Seemingly, there is no way to split it because you either need a bridge between 2 and 3 with the station being 1 and PBX being on 4. Example. A POTS line is ran through the PBX to say Ext 90. There is a fax, a credit card machine, and a second fax on station 10,12,ans 14. How can you manage that? You cant put 2 on one, you lose your extra terminals bridging from the PBX 90 to the first station 10 in this case. Surely you would not bridge the 2+3 with a wire and run down to the next one with one of those red caps?
Hi James, you threw a lot at me there. As for why you’re seeing bridge clips across the pins between two stations, I have no answer except that 66-blocks are notoriously mis labeled because over time techs make changes but don’t relabel. Your question about sharing a POTS line across several diff pins, you do a non-cut punch. If you look at your 66 punch tool, you should be able to flip the bit around so that the end has not cutter on it. Hope that helps. 😊
on your wiring, have you explained the Tip and Ring and why the wires have to be set a certain way on the blocks (which is tip and which is ring and why)
I agree something that was missing in an earlier video along with echo cancellation with the pair twists. Very basic information.
Thanks
Question: Is it acceptable or normal to provide slack in each run? My line of thinking is if something happens to the cables on either end, you have extra cable to pull to make new punches, instead of having to run a an entire new line just because you don't have that little bit of cabling that you need. Everything I know says this makes sense...it's what I don't know that makes me wonder if there's a reason to not provide extra slack. Thanks!
Yes, leaving slack (also referred to as a "service loop") at each end is a best practice. So your thinking was right-on!
Everyone has a different way they like to do this. For me, I like to either leave a coil of about 2 feet in the ceiling before I drop into the patch panel or the wall jack. Or the other way to do it is to leave slack in the network cabinet (or if telecom wiring, somewhere on the backboard).
Only word of caution, with Cat6 cable for Data networks, making circular loops can degrade 1Gbps throughput. However,f or Cat5e or 100Mbps network, the effect is unnoticed.
Great question, thanks for asking!
Fantastic! :) I will keep the loop in mind and keep doing this! I remember years ago hearing about loops in cabling degrading signal quality, and I believe there was an actual minimum size for the loop to avoid signal degradation but I don't remember. I would assume a good size loop would minimize or eliminate any adverse effects? And if not a larger loop, I suppose just leaving some sag, or making a wider turn would also give the extra slack that may be needed down the line. Thank you for your time and for sharing your expertise!
John - Nahh, loops are not a significant problem as long as they don't encircle a city the size of Cleveland (or Sheboygan, for that matter). Keep them as 'service' loops, maybe a foot and a half in diameter JUST IN CASE you might need to reroute or repunch so you have some slack to work with. ONE thing that is critical though, since you're talking wiring ... that's parallel runs with electrical. Don't do it ... ZIG ZAG your wiring as best as possible. The longer you parallel to high strength signal sources or radiating sources (such as electrical) the worse the problem becomes. Just avoid the parallel runs or zig zag as much as possible to avoid a direct parallel.
Very helpful...tks.
I have a question guys can i put a phone wire over these guya iam using 2 phones when in my house one in mystore in the same building
May I ask on the other ned of those pairs which will be tip and which will be ring? White blue is tip? Blue is ring? Or vice-versa?
That’s right. W/blu= tip (green on a phone jack). Blue/white is ring (red). 😄
@@DIYTelecom thanks!! 🙏 That’s a quick and easy reference that I’ll probably forget again and again. 😅
Let you in on a lil secret? I sometimes come back to watch my own videos to remember how to do something. 😆😆
I am having trouble with the color scheme. My 66 block looks different than this. I have 7 phone lines connected to it and three of them are currently down. It starts on the left side with colors: Ow, O, Gw, G, Bw, B, Brwn/white, Brown. And then it runs another cat5 cable beginning with O, oW, wB, B, Brown/White, and then brown. I have no idea why the person before me skipped Green and Gw.
Somehow the orange/oW is paired with a phone line Green/red and it's working. If I could attach a picture it may be easier to understand. I hope I'm making sense, but I cannot figure out why he did this and how Orange/Ow pairs with red/green phone line. I want to use all cat5 cables on this 66 block without messing any current connection up.
A 66B block is different then the m50 shown. With the 66B block the left pins are usually where you provide the dial tone (Known as the Line Wiring from the NID (network interface device) provided by the telephone company. The remaining right five pins are parallel, and where you punch your Station Wiring (your phones from the wall jacks or wherever), to the left pin meaning whatever you punch down on the left pin, anything punched down on the remaining right pins of that row are parallel ... they carry that particular path across. So, let's start out with one telephone line Chris. Usually it will be provided as either RED GREEN for line one and YELLOW BLACK for line two. Nowadays it doesn't really matter as most everything is digital, but it's always good to follow the old ATT standard for clarity sake. So, look at this chart for a little better understanding:
Old Style 3 pair - New style 3 pair
RED - WHITE STRIPE on BLUE WIRE (Line 1 Tip)
GREEN - BLUE WIRE on WHITE STRIPE (Line 1 Ring)YELLOW - WHITE STRIPE on ORANGE WIRE (Line 2 Tip)BLACK - ORANGE WIRE on WHITE STRIPE (Line 2 Ring)WHITE - WHITE STRIPE on GREEN WIRE (Line 3 Tip)BLUE - GREEN WIRE on WHITE STRIP (Line 3 Ring)Again, the polarity is not usually important these days unless you are using a digital Key system in which you would refer to their wiring instructions as power might be present on certain pairs.So, unless you have the same coloring codes on the left side coming in, use the above methods.Also note that maybe your house has old and new wiring ... but it doesn't matter as long as you maintain the color code if you can. ALSO NOTE - A butt set is always handy to make sure the lines coming in are correctly wired. They could have been swiss-cheesed by a previous owner or someone's brother who knows all about phone wiring but actually doesn't.So, to hook up your LINE WIRING to your STATION WIRING, just punch your STATION PAIRS as shown above. Always good to make sure that they are actually wired that way on the jack first (that brother thing again).I hope this clarified things and not totally confused you. I am a retired ATT employee and have owned a few installation companies before and after the phone company stint. If you cannot get your jacks to work, don't call your brother - call a CLEC, ILEC or anybody of reputation. You can usually find them under TELEPHONE in the yellow pages. Good Luck. And if all else fails, do what the rest of the world does, buy a cel phone where voice quality sucks, something ATT has strived for since day one.
Also, if yours has a metal clip across the middle of the block. remove the metal clip, brush it with an emory board or some sort of small wire brush, be sure to clean any fragments and re-insert it. I've had those 'bridge clips' get tarnished sometime and lose their ability to actually 'bridge' the signal path from one side of the block to the other.
They should have shown all the info just not enough to start trouble
For all that is good and holy, how the fuck do you test these lines with a butt set? I have only found how to punch them down, or how to use a butt set in general, but nothing that combines these two things. Why?
4:17
first you need to change your camera ..work explation good
Let’s start a Kickstarter drive to raise funds for a real camera! 😁😁
horrible camera angle, poorly made.