If anyone comes on here to complain how this successful market Gardner does is stuff, you need to spend more time looking in than projecting out. Nice Farm @joshsattin
Thank you! Much needed video. I’m starting new this year. My first trial was a big flop. Everything came up beautifully and then died!! I gotta test my soil again bc I can’t figure out what I did wrong. But I’m learning. Not giving up just yet. Keep on teaching us!!! We need all the help you can give! Love your videos.
Happy summer solstice, thank you for sharing all of that content for free. Here we amend our beds only in the winter where we harvest a lot of organic matter that we let cold composting on the beds. Then mulched with leaves and let mother nature do the work.
I noticed that you're using a landscape rake to dress your grow beds/rows. I have the same rake but I cut 3inches off of either side to create a 30inch bed rake. Works great!
Till - Verb - to prepare and cultivate (land) for crops. Tilth - Noun - cultivation of land; tillage. Tilther = Tiller I'm not sure I agree with the "No till" label, but I do enjoy the videos.
A hand rake, stirrup hoe, wire weeder, broadfork, any hand tool, really, is soil cultivation = tillage. If you want to get that technical. What really matters in the no-till system is minimizing soil disturbance. The tilther only goes about an inch deep. You can do the exact same job with a rake, and only disturb that top inch, just a LOT more time and effort. That top inch is naturally highly variable in soil life populations over time. Baked by the sun, dried out by the wind, soil life is transient in this zone. Our disturbance here has minimal overall impact. Deeper than one inch is another story and is where no-till really matters. Some prefer to call it low-till. Others call it no-dig (yet still dig small holes to plant transplants, go figure).
Thanks Josh! I have been struggling with the baby green bed flips and this answers my questions using pretty much the same tools I have to work with. Lots of great stuff going on at that farm that I hope catches on else where.
Wonderful information Thankyou! Working with our the local conservation office and the equip program to get a hoop house financed and then growing for our local farmers markets. This was very helpful
Did you have to own the land for them to work with you? We are renting 5 acres and every program I find that has grants and such requires that you own the land.
Would you do a vlog on securing a high tunnel from wind and storms? I know you get a lot of damaging weather and it would be helpful if we knew what to look for when purchasing a tunnel. Love the channel. Blessings
Terrific to see manual no-till ways of incorporating amendments. I saw Neversink Farm do this pretty much the same on video. My own guess is that root crops being dug will help some of the amendments fall in deeper and not just stratify on the surface, over time. I'm also in a high PH area. I've been thinking of adding elemental sulfur. So, it was great to see someone using it that isn't amending a big broad acre farm. What about soil tests? Of all the organic vids and podcasts I listen to, very few seem to get soil tests done, or talk about soil testing, except for people that like Steve Solomon's book The intelligent Gardener. Maybe more than just a PH test was done there?
Josh, thanks for the video as I am just starting this year and hope to garden in much of the style that you have exampled. Need to know more on composting and how to get started. Will research your video library.
So glad I found your channel> I live in Cary! We got 300 sq feet of raised beds. Planted a cover crop last year. Now wondering what the hell to do with it!!
Great stuff. I was thinking that pulling the baby kale seems like a pretty time-intensive process. I would think that just digging holes in it and planting the pepper transplants would be fine (saving all the soil community relationships, and time), and then just use sheers to hack the kale that is potentially competing with the peppers. Or if you want it clean, just shear the whole bed right from the start. I find cardboard an effective medium to kill weeds. It's free from the waste stream and compostable, and worms particularly thrive under it. I was wondering if the beds would improve faster with those amendments being added before you broadfork, preceding the planting of a deep-rooted crop? Just my thoughts. Clearly you are doing great, and I wish you success with your project!
Don't know what Josh would say but my answer is as regards the broadfork. It doesn't invert the soil but only loosen it so that water, roots, earthworms and other biology can penetrate more easily. A plow would invert the soil layers, a rototiller pulverizes and destroys biology however if its only on the top inch then that top inch becomes like mulch that protects the biology underneath it.
After a season or two it isn't necessary. It takes roots in the ground for the air to lift the soil naturally. The key is to always have roots in the ground, but ya gotta air the soil for the first few plantings in certain soils, like clay.
I think it does, from what I understand about no dig from Charles Dowdings channel. He emphasizes minimal soil disturbance. The broadfork is doing nothing for the health of the soil.
Sigh... 1. Broad forks are extremely beneficial in heavy clay soils to loosen up heavy clay while still keeping large aggregates intact. Most will stop broadforking as the soils improve over many seasons. Very common to use in newish beds even for no till growers. 2. The tilther isnt even fucking with the soil hes basically just mixing the compost and amendments at the surface and getting a good plntable surface not even touching the actual mineral soil. People who refuse to disturb the soil at all are nothing but ideologues who dont understand nuance or how things can have situational benefit. Many no tillers even start off with a deep subsurface ripper for new properties with compacted soils and that is for sure tillage but they understand when to use it...
Ahhh... Yes nuance(I had to look that up... A subtle difference of meaning) You mean to till rather than no till, nuance. Gotcha. It looks like hard work your no till system compared to mine. I let earthworms and nature do my tilling so I don't have to. That's a nuance as well.
@@thecountrypeasanttcp1573 . I am keen to understand more about this. How much food do you produce with your system of no-till? Can you quantify as well as indicate what crops you produce? I would like to do as little as possible, providing it is a viable option.
@@pietervanderwesthuizen2319 it is most definately a viable option. If you are truly interested in no till then the best place to look for inspiration is Charles Dowding. He has written books and has many informative CZcams videos. If you are a larger scale farmer then Gabe Brown has a great book called "dirt to soil" and also features on many CZcams videos. I cannot explain better than either of these people, I base my garden and farming on their principles. Hope that helps you out. 👍
@@pietervanderwesthuizen2319 to quantify the results... I forgot, you will do less work and improve your soil structure, increase organic matter and soil life that will result in healthier plants that require less chemical inputs and in return provide better yields and more nutrients. There are always dips and troughs, it is a learning curve, but an exciting one.
Nope. Not even close. The broadfork pokes holes in the soil and loosens it. It's not meant to turn the soil over (tilling), or to break up the top layer (tilthing).
prevents soil compaction. Even a BCS tractor with tilling will create a dense layer to deep to break up. Broad fork ensures you wont have roots freaking out when they hit hard soil at depth.
Broad forking is soil disturbance. But to understand the value of the “no till” concept, you have to understand what soil needs. Soil structure gets ripped apart by vigorous tilling - kind of like putting a layer cake in a blender: who wants to eat that? A broad fork is like slicing a cake - yum yum. The living microorganisms in soil need air. Broad forking helps with this without utterly destroying all the life in the soil. Frankly, worms 🪱 do the same thing 😉 as they move through the soil they create air pockets. Soil that has no oxygen becomes anaerobic. This also kills much of the helpful microorganisms in the soil. So broad forking is a happy medium to get your soil what it needs.
@@lovelyrainflowerfarm , I have a no till garden, for 5 years now. I only dig a hole to put the plant's in. And add about 3 to 4 inches of raw woodchips, Every spring. And see no need to fork it. But to each their own...
@@smeedgar it may also have something to do with the efficiencies of growing for market. I don’t broadfork either, but then my context is different. Either way, it’s not harming the soil.
Hey love the Funky music themed but also consider building a treehouse over just a house that tears down the forest. Trees should be building blocks no tearing blocks. It can be funky and swirlyio just needs a bit of adjusting imagination and blueprinting and there we go and inventive you might get more followers because your not just helping humanity but your helping the World. We are not only making channels grow but It inspire others to experiment and CZcams Channels will grow when we choose to help the world 2 ways in one stone. Building a tree house and putting gardens in it. It can maybe make new species
Hi Josh, Thanks to your videos I decided to try something different when I flipped my lettuce bed last night. Instead of pulling them out like I have always done, I cut off my lettuce just below ground level, left the roots in place, added a bit more compost and amendments on top and only had to pull one out when I transplanted 46 new lettuce plants in my raised bed (all started from seed)! I am excited to see how it works out! On a different note... is there any particular types of lettuce that do better as cut and come again? I would assume head lettuce like iceberg would not do well whereas loose leaf types might be ok with it but I was curious if you have seen any general indicators that might allow you to make an educated guess as to what would work well. I am here in the San Francisco bay area so my climate is very different from yours so I imagine I would be looking at totally different varieties compared to what you grow there. I have had good luck so far with paris island cos. Thank you for everything you do! I really enjoy watching your videos not just because I always pick up new tidbits of knowledge but because it keeps me inspired to expand my own gardening skills. Stay safe, be well and all the best from California 💛
Glad to hear the videos have been helpful. There are so many varieties of lettuce out there and I have only grown a few. For my context I like the Muir, Cherokee, Magenta mix. Salanova is grown by most market gardeners and is an awesome cut and come again lettuce. It also comes down to what type of lettuce you like to eat.
I’m in LA, I know it’s not quite SF weather but I had good luck with buttercrunch lettuce. Worked as a good cut and come again. 3 cuts from container garden. I also started from seed. Hope that helps. Cheers.
Josh sir I m from india and my english language is weak so plz can you provide hindi dubbed version of your videos.....Plz sir ... Love from india.......
Please research the benefits of boron/ BORAX for all plants and people too. Ratio to water is important. 1/8 tsp to liter of water for women 1/4 tsp in a liter of water for men. So many benefits. Including radiation detox. Worth looking into!!! Drink sips throughout the day. Just do your own research and be amazed!
DO NOT FLIP BEDS. watch Charles and Richard Perkins videos on flipping beds and why creates more weeds in no till gardens. You do not flip the soil or aerate it in any way, so throw away that pitchfork.
@@jeffenglishsetter8339 Just watch charles explain it, he is the man behind the idea. Josh is just regurgitating what Charles has already done, but he is really bad at following Charles' updated books and guides. Is it true that aeration used to be done by Charles as well, but he did an experiment and proved that it was not a productive practice to flip beds.
Hey Josh, thanks so much for your videos...really great! One one of your videos you showed burning weeds. Could you give me the brand name of that torch attachment. I'm having difficulty locating one online. With thanks
Josh, I really enjoy your videos. You have great presentation skills and you keep it simple to digest all the information. One question, I am new to gardening, I would think that leaving the lettuce roots in after simply tearing off the leaves would cause them to sprout? back?? What did I miss? Thanks in advance -- Dave
Where can I get ground feather meal? We do not have any poultry farms here any longer because the waste run off creates brown tide and messes with the marine environment which surrounds this island. At one time and for multiple decades we were world famous for our Long Island duck.
“Tilling” must become shorthand for flipping the bed so that deep microbes (and seeds) end up near the surface and surface microbes end up deep, which = dead microbial profile through soil. Broad forking aerates and breaks hardpans + assists water and root infiltration, but doesn’t (deep) flip. Tilthing, creates a fine soil structure in the first inch or less for planting. I think “no-till” here means no tractor with a tiller flipping over a foot of soil, destroying the microbial balance while compacting the soil to make hard pans. So yeah I can accept calling it “no-till”. I’m just being pragmatic though, not a purist.
"Tilling beds on a no-till farm" Coming from a farmer who practices no-till, this is far from it. Both the broad fork and the sketchy little rototiller thing are forms of tillage.
@@ThePorktornado It goes 2 inches deep maximum. The little hand drill motor cant't handle hitting anything hard or getting caught in roots. It is the perfect tool to evenly spread compost over a bed quickly, and the flat metal panel on the back leaves the bed moderately compacted. It's just a sped up version of using a rake and a roller. I don't own one, but my friend does and I'll use it sometime, but I mostly just rake. Kinda depends on the sort of shape the bed is in. Inline rippers go way deeper and they can definitely bring sub soil to the topsoil layer. They try to design the teeth specifically not to do this, but either way its a much more aggressive tilling method than the little tilther machine.
My " NO-TILL" is bigger than your "NO-TILL" . Good heavens but the actual "NO-TILLERS" are a precocious bunch of fanatics. Only true "NO-TILLERS" go to heaven, the rest of us hang around in purgatory until we confess that we have "TILLED" . From my experience, this is a great channel with excellent content about growing vegetables, not a ideology nursery, but I am probably wrong about this as I am not a true "NO -TILLER". Shame on me.
Thank you. I have been using the Canon EOS R, Rode Videomic Pro+ and the DJI Mavic Air. Everything is awesome. I would like to upgrade the drone at some point though.
Greetings Josh....I'm binge-ing your content! Love it. I'm curious how you determine which crops are grown in the high tunnel vs. outdoors? Maybe thats a video i haven't found yet. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you have been enjoying the videos. I haven't done a video specifically on that. It's always a case by case basis per bed where things go. It depends a lot on the season too and what I have space for. Thanks for watching!
PSA sulfur doesn't lower pH directly, it does so by-proxie. Excess (over the soils appetite) sulfur will form with other excess minerals, often times resulting in insoluble forms and by-proxie "removing the alkaline" from the ion exchange. What you're doing is correct. I'm just being a scientific wording troll in an effort to get people to Google base saturation.......
your soil always looks so beautiful and fluffy! We need a better compost source. It is hard to find anything around here we aren't really in a farming community at all. Any tips on finding good quality compost?
Old Redding Farm Equestrian Centers and arborists are great resources where I live. Also if you use in-situ style composting it eliminates many steps. Google that and hugel kulture.
Test equestrian farm manure before using it. Pesticides that are used on oats can pass through horses and still actively kill crops because they are engineered to work for several years. Dicamba is one. There have been big problems with this.
Mixing up the top couple inches isn’t tilling, assuming you have mulched or “dressed” beds with compost. That said, I think it is a big waste of time for most home gardeners in most circumstances. Just keep it well dressed at all times and rake back the surface to reveal the finer stuff below before direct sowing carrots, parsnips or lettuce.
Ever have any critter problems using feather or blood meal? Or do you know of any other alternatives that will not attract them as much? Thanks for the vid Josh.
Do you leave things like peppers and tomatos and cabbage roots in the ground over winter (cutting off the tops) to avoid soil disturbance? If so, are they gone by spring planting?
Hey Josh love your videos mannnn...I'm watching and learning all the way from Fiji islands...pls tell me whats the name of the band or music you played at the beginning of this video.👍👍
Do you think the amendments are needed? Have you tried one bed with and one without? How to you feel about using animal products to grow vegetables that could well be bought by vegan customers. Love your vids, thanks.
I have had good results from these amendments so we will continue to use them. If you ever want to experiment with not using amendments, the plants will tell you if they aren't happy.
What are the valves you use to connect your drip lines to the main line? I have not had good luck finding an effecient way to disconnect the lines AND have a valve to turn off the water to individual beds.
Zveryeducatoional and informative. I hope to have a few plots in my farm so all these are helpful. I am interested in Organic Farming. Those soil amendments you talk about, does adding it disqualify the land for Organic Farming? I have in mind salad greens, so is the open use of Greenhouse a good combination with the open plats. So much to learn. Thanks.
We are not certified organic so it doesn't apply to us. If you are certified organic then you need to make sure that all of your amendments are organic. You should always check with your certifier if you have any questions.
Hey, you mentioned your PH is high? Is that because of the woodchips sometimes get incorporated in and also because of the fact they might mulch in between the beds?
What do you do when you're not planting your beds ? Coz from what I see, you're really lacking fresh carbon here. It's in your pathways a bit, but on the beds themselves, just compost and fertilizer isn't gonna feed your worms. You'd need a good cover crop in winter that you let flower all the way into May, or to put some wood chips in. Of course you can't put wood chips for all crops (especially not if you sow small seeds), but for transplants like kale, tomatoes, squashes etc... it's perfect. Coz the compost + fertilizer, it's mostly broken down stuff, there's nothing to eat for soil life. I've seen farmers who do what you do, except pure compost. And if you do it outside, you can really run into compaction issues with the , and your soil organic matter content being washed away. At least in your tunnels you control the amount of water, so there's less erosion but outside it's dangerous. The trap is that yeah it looks awesome and it's easy to do. But I've seen videos of farmers with 20 cm of compost, and then just steel-hard clay underneath, coz the compost didn't feed any worm nor did it protect again rain.
To Live is to learn for them who are Abel to work the land with and in Life...to Enjoy it's fruits that Life Produces...Your garden has come along ways, my friend...Your plants thrive with life... To find that perFact balance...to feed water to provide an Ideal environment for Life to Thrive.... Did you know ...You can bare the fruit of Life, every month. If you bring your garden to the seasons...Baring the fruit of Life monthly. As they stair stare.step stagger....Life's swagger Wow...what a wonder Full day and age to live in...to have and to hold the seasons at our finger tips...when Night comes their is lIght..at the flip of a switch...God bless my friend...in Life with life through Life...ForEveHer... wear is life...bite for bite both bread and wine....1st and Last to laugh...Mauhahahha Life....
Every body know each reaps what they sow...Speaking of Life....In the family of Life ,Karma is known..what go's around comes around knott in a ring, in a fig your ate kind of way..And daughter Hope is forEveHer...Yet, hope is never alone if you see hope you see joy for they are hand in hand .com joined twins...Love is peace, my friend...
I know you've changed a lot of things since this video. However you still tend to make 30" rows right? At the 10:36 mark on the video where you explain that the landscape rake is 36" wouldn't it be advantageous to trim (and finish the edge so it's not sharp) 3" off each side of the rake?
II’ve found that those landscape rakes pull the dirt level better when pulled like he’s doing it. When pulled straight like you are suggesting the rake tends to dig in randomly leaving a ‘cut’ in his level surface making him have to back up and rerun it, which would defeat his purpose which is to level the surface in one pass.
If anyone comes on here to complain how this successful market Gardner does is stuff, you need to spend more time looking in than projecting out. Nice Farm @joshsattin
Thank you! Much needed video. I’m starting new this year. My first trial was a big flop. Everything came up beautifully and then died!! I gotta test my soil again bc I can’t figure out what I did wrong. But I’m learning. Not giving up just yet. Keep on teaching us!!! We need all the help you can give! Love your videos.
Happy summer solstice, thank you for sharing all of that content for free. Here we amend our beds only in the winter where we harvest a lot of organic matter that we let cold composting on the beds. Then mulched with leaves and let mother nature do the work.
Love this.
That's 10 litre of compost per m2 of bed. To save anyone having to do the conversion.
Thanks though i saw your comment after i had gone through the conversions :)
I learn so much from you videos Josh! Thank you! Your a world of knowledge for me.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
@@JoshSattinFarming Where do you purchase your compost ? I live in Lumberton and Im looking for some for my small garden 15x50
You’re hustling! Keep up the good work!
The B roll in the beginning of your video is great.
Thank you!
Yeah what's the song?!
The broadfork really saved my soil. Its just like butter now. Havn't been here in a while. Been busy on my own farm. I'll be back!
Hi Josh, thanks for sharing your processes. I’m new to gardening and your videos have been very helpful. Keep them coming!
You're welcome. Glad the videos have been helpful and thanks for watching!
Great lessons learned and much appreciated. I am a beginner
I noticed that you're using a landscape rake to dress your grow beds/rows. I have the same rake but I cut 3inches off of either side to create a 30inch bed rake. Works great!
I was thinking same thing. Wish the tilt her came in different widths, with stronger side panels to keep soil on the bed.
Cheers mate. I greatly appreciate your videos. Always something new to learn.
Thank you!
Till - Verb - to prepare and cultivate (land) for crops.
Tilth - Noun - cultivation of land; tillage.
Tilther = Tiller
I'm not sure I agree with the "No till" label, but I do enjoy the videos.
A hand rake, stirrup hoe, wire weeder, broadfork, any hand tool, really, is soil cultivation = tillage. If you want to get that technical.
What really matters in the no-till system is minimizing soil disturbance. The tilther only goes about an inch deep. You can do the exact same job with a rake, and only disturb that top inch, just a LOT more time and effort.
That top inch is naturally highly variable in soil life populations over time. Baked by the sun, dried out by the wind, soil life is transient in this zone. Our disturbance here has minimal overall impact. Deeper than one inch is another story and is where no-till really matters.
Some prefer to call it low-till. Others call it no-dig (yet still dig small holes to plant transplants, go figure).
I love how you break down. It look very professional.
Just what I needed, served up by the algorithm ;) Thanks Josh, learned a ton!
Thanks Josh! I have been struggling with the baby green bed flips and this answers my questions using pretty much the same tools I have to work with. Lots of great stuff going on at that farm that I hope catches on else where.
As a keen Horticulturist from new Zealand , I will subscribe
Wonderful information Thankyou! Working with our the local conservation office and the equip program to get a hoop house financed and then growing for our local farmers markets. This was very helpful
Did you have to own the land for them to work with you? We are renting 5 acres and every program I find that has grants and such requires that you own the land.
Thanks for doing what you all do!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for making this video Josh. I’m using this information to literally feed my family. It means a lot.
Best of luck to you mate. I'm hoping to do the same
Whow all these yrs ive been doing it right? 😂 Im just too lazy each fall so i cut from right under and keep the roots in. Thanks for the info bro👊🏼
Another awesome video! Thanks Josh.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I so appreciate your instructions! You were very thorough yet focused. Happy gardening!!
Seems like a great way of doing things,Sir, Thanks for showing
You are absolutely outstanding
You doing amazing job
Making a videos is very helpful
Superb
God bless you
Thank you!
Thank you for your videos they sure help me. God bless everyone
Would you do a vlog on securing a high tunnel from wind and storms? I know you get a lot of damaging weather and it would be helpful if we knew what to look for when purchasing a tunnel. Love the channel. Blessings
Enjoyed your systematic approach!!
Nice!! 🌻🌻🌻
Thank you for showing how you use your broad fork. I have never had a real technique.
Love my Tilther "Tiller" another tool I feel in love with this year, is the Wire Weeder, if you don't have one, make one or you can all ways buy.
I always enjoy your videos! One day I will incorporate your methods here on our Farmstead!
Hi your garden so nice
Terrific to see manual no-till ways of incorporating amendments. I saw Neversink Farm do this pretty much the same on video. My own guess is that root crops being dug will help some of the amendments fall in deeper and not just stratify on the surface, over time. I'm also in a high PH area. I've been thinking of adding elemental sulfur. So, it was great to see someone using it that isn't amending a big broad acre farm. What about soil tests? Of all the organic vids and podcasts I listen to, very few seem to get soil tests done, or talk about soil testing, except for people that like Steve Solomon's book The intelligent Gardener. Maybe more than just a PH test was done there?
Thank you Josh! Awesome video
You're welcome!
Farming has many rewards
Thanks that was very helpful
I love this channel.
Thank you!
Very informational video! I would love to do market gardening a little to phase out of the grind!
Again informative, thanks, great video!
But rip for chickens..
Josh, thanks for the video as I am just starting this year and hope to garden in much of the style that you have exampled. Need to know more on composting and how to get started. Will research your video library.
Thanks for info.
You're welcome!
So glad I found your channel> I live in Cary! We got 300 sq feet of raised beds. Planted a cover crop last year. Now wondering what the hell to do with it!!
Great stuff. I was thinking that pulling the baby kale seems like a pretty time-intensive process. I would think that just digging holes in it and planting the pepper transplants would be fine (saving all the soil community relationships, and time), and then just use sheers to hack the kale that is potentially competing with the peppers. Or if you want it clean, just shear the whole bed right from the start. I find cardboard an effective medium to kill weeds. It's free from the waste stream and compostable, and worms particularly thrive under it. I was wondering if the beds would improve faster with those amendments being added before you broadfork, preceding the planting of a deep-rooted crop? Just my thoughts. Clearly you are doing great, and I wish you success with your project!
You sir are a Master of your domain. Thanks for sharing ! Let's get cooking with Master Chefs .......
Thanks my friend for your ideas my regards
Take an angle grinder to that rake make it 30 inches and make bent handle so u can work from the side works good
What shape do you bend the handle?
@@aprilleithleiter1929 you off set it to a side makes it easier made one while ago never use it as much now but works good
Serious question: doesn't the broad fork and tilter go against the whole no-till thing??
Don't know what Josh would say but my answer is as regards the broadfork. It doesn't invert the soil but only loosen it so that water, roots, earthworms and other biology can penetrate more easily. A plow would invert the soil layers, a rototiller pulverizes and destroys biology however if its only on the top inch then that top inch becomes like mulch that protects the biology underneath it.
Low-till
The broad fork is pretty much the equivalent of a ripper in farming operations.
After a season or two it isn't necessary. It takes roots in the ground for the air to lift the soil naturally. The key is to always have roots in the ground, but ya gotta air the soil for the first few plantings in certain soils, like clay.
I think it does, from what I understand about no dig from Charles Dowdings channel. He emphasizes minimal soil disturbance. The broadfork is doing nothing for the health of the soil.
Great video
Isn't broad forking like tilling, maybe not quite as radical, but you still disturb the soil.
You use a broad fork then a tilther... How is that no till??
Sigh...
1. Broad forks are extremely beneficial in heavy clay soils to loosen up heavy clay while still keeping large aggregates intact. Most will stop broadforking as the soils improve over many seasons. Very common to use in newish beds even for no till growers.
2. The tilther isnt even fucking with the soil hes basically just mixing the compost and amendments at the surface and getting a good plntable surface not even touching the actual mineral soil.
People who refuse to disturb the soil at all are nothing but ideologues who dont understand nuance or how things can have situational benefit.
Many no tillers even start off with a deep subsurface ripper for new properties with compacted soils and that is for sure tillage but they understand when to use it...
Ahhh... Yes nuance(I had to look that up... A subtle difference of meaning)
You mean to till rather than no till, nuance. Gotcha.
It looks like hard work your no till system compared to mine. I let earthworms and nature do my tilling so I don't have to. That's a nuance as well.
@@thecountrypeasanttcp1573 . I am keen to understand more about this. How much food do you produce with your system of no-till? Can you quantify as well as indicate what crops you produce? I would like to do as little as possible, providing it is a viable option.
@@pietervanderwesthuizen2319 it is most definately a viable option. If you are truly interested in no till then the best place to look for inspiration is Charles Dowding. He has written books and has many informative CZcams videos. If you are a larger scale farmer then Gabe Brown has a great book called "dirt to soil" and also features on many CZcams videos. I cannot explain better than either of these people, I base my garden and farming on their principles. Hope that helps you out. 👍
@@pietervanderwesthuizen2319 to quantify the results... I forgot, you will do less work and improve your soil structure, increase organic matter and soil life that will result in healthier plants that require less chemical inputs and in return provide better yields and more nutrients. There are always dips and troughs, it is a learning curve, but an exciting one.
6:30 - Roughly 5/16" deep? (25 gallons at 231 cubic inches each spread scross 18000 square inches of bed space -> 0.32083" average depth)
Broad fork isn't tilling?
Nope. Not even close. The broadfork pokes holes in the soil and loosens it. It's not meant to turn the soil over (tilling), or to break up the top layer (tilthing).
prevents soil compaction. Even a BCS tractor with tilling will create a dense layer to deep to break up. Broad fork ensures you wont have roots freaking out when they hit hard soil at depth.
Broad forking is soil disturbance. But to understand the value of the “no till” concept, you have to understand what soil needs. Soil structure gets ripped apart by vigorous tilling - kind of like putting a layer cake in a blender: who wants to eat that? A broad fork is like slicing a cake - yum yum. The living microorganisms in soil need air. Broad forking helps with this without utterly destroying all the life in the soil. Frankly, worms 🪱 do the same thing 😉 as they move through the soil they create air pockets. Soil that has no oxygen becomes anaerobic. This also kills much of the helpful microorganisms in the soil. So broad forking is a happy medium to get your soil what it needs.
@@lovelyrainflowerfarm , I have a no till garden, for 5 years now.
I only dig a hole to put the plant's in.
And add about 3 to 4 inches of raw woodchips, Every spring.
And see no need to fork it.
But to each their own...
@@smeedgar it may also have something to do with the efficiencies of growing for market. I don’t broadfork either, but then my context is different. Either way, it’s not harming the soil.
Hey love the Funky music themed but also consider building a treehouse over just a house that tears down the forest. Trees should be building blocks no tearing blocks. It can be funky and swirlyio just needs a bit of adjusting imagination and blueprinting and there we go and inventive you might get more followers because your not just helping humanity but your helping the World. We are not only making channels grow but It inspire others to experiment and CZcams Channels will grow when we choose to help the world 2 ways in one stone. Building a tree house and putting gardens in it. It can maybe make new species
Great content. I was wondering Josh is you can share details of how you make you compost. Thanks
Thank you. We buy commercially made compost.
10:50.......my OCD can't be calmer. You can throw the seeds from an airplane into that bed and it will grow like crazy.
Bill from HOP farm sent me.
Hi Josh,
Thanks to your videos I decided to try something different when I flipped my lettuce bed last night. Instead of pulling them out like I have always done, I cut off my lettuce just below ground level, left the roots in place, added a bit more compost and amendments on top and only had to pull one out when I transplanted 46 new lettuce plants in my raised bed (all started from seed)! I am excited to see how it works out!
On a different note... is there any particular types of lettuce that do better as cut and come again? I would assume head lettuce like iceberg would not do well whereas loose leaf types might be ok with it but I was curious if you have seen any general indicators that might allow you to make an educated guess as to what would work well. I am here in the San Francisco bay area so my climate is very different from yours so I imagine I would be looking at totally different varieties compared to what you grow there. I have had good luck so far with paris island cos.
Thank you for everything you do! I really enjoy watching your videos not just because I always pick up new tidbits of knowledge but because it keeps me inspired to expand my own gardening skills.
Stay safe, be well and all the best from California 💛
Glad to hear the videos have been helpful. There are so many varieties of lettuce out there and I have only grown a few. For my context I like the Muir, Cherokee, Magenta mix. Salanova is grown by most market gardeners and is an awesome cut and come again lettuce. It also comes down to what type of lettuce you like to eat.
@@JoshSattinFarming Thank you for the info! It is much appreciated! I may have to try Salanova if I can find it. Thanks again!
@@ewjorgy I believe Johnny's Selected Seeds is the only company that sells Salanova. It's good lettuce, however, the seeds are expensive.
I’m in LA, I know it’s not quite SF weather but I had good luck with buttercrunch lettuce. Worked as a good cut and come again. 3 cuts from container garden. I also started from seed.
Hope that helps. Cheers.
Thanks mate
Suggest renaming video 'flipping beds' vs building beds. Thx. 🙂
Looked like tilling to me
Informative video
Josh sir I m from india and my english language is weak so plz can you provide hindi dubbed version of your videos.....Plz sir ...
Love from india.......
Please research the benefits of boron/ BORAX for all plants and people too. Ratio to water is important. 1/8 tsp to liter of water for women 1/4 tsp in a liter of water for men. So many benefits. Including radiation detox. Worth looking into!!! Drink sips throughout the day. Just do your own research and be amazed!
DO NOT FLIP BEDS.
watch Charles and Richard Perkins videos on flipping beds and why creates more weeds in no till gardens. You do not flip the soil or aerate it in any way, so throw away that pitchfork.
Not sure, but it seems his results counter your statement
@@jeffenglishsetter8339 Just watch charles explain it, he is the man behind the idea.
Josh is just regurgitating what Charles has already done, but he is really bad at following Charles' updated books and guides. Is it true that aeration used to be done by Charles as well, but he did an experiment and proved that it was not a productive practice to flip beds.
Hey Josh, thanks so much for your videos...really great! One one of your videos you showed burning weeds. Could you give me the brand name of that torch attachment. I'm having difficulty locating one online. With thanks
I bought a cheap one at Northern Tools, but something like this would work amzn.to/3jmoD7N
Thanks for the sharing, very helpful. How would you deal with the soil spilling over the wood chip pathway?
We keep the beds and pathways roughly at the same height.
Josh, I really enjoy your videos. You have great presentation skills and you keep it simple to digest all the information. One question, I am new to gardening, I would think that leaving the lettuce roots in after simply tearing off the leaves would cause them to sprout? back?? What did I miss? Thanks in advance -- Dave
Where can I get ground feather meal? We do not have any poultry farms here any longer because the waste run off creates brown tide and messes with the marine environment which surrounds this island. At one time and for multiple decades we were world famous for our Long Island duck.
I'm confused how it's no-till if you are broadforking the soil.
rufia75 tilling disrupts the soil structure a lot more...
Hi good farming bro
“Tilling” must become shorthand for flipping the bed so that deep microbes (and seeds) end up near the surface and surface microbes end up deep, which = dead microbial profile through soil. Broad forking aerates and breaks hardpans + assists water and root infiltration, but doesn’t (deep) flip. Tilthing, creates a fine soil structure in the first inch or less for planting. I think “no-till” here means no tractor with a tiller flipping over a foot of soil, destroying the microbial balance while compacting the soil to make hard pans. So yeah I can accept calling it “no-till”. I’m just being pragmatic though, not a purist.
Another great video Josh! When you covered the arugula, would a silage tarp work too? Wondering the difference in using landscape cloth and a tarp
Silage tarp would be great. I had some 3 foot wide landscape fabric already so we used that.
"Tilling beds on a no-till farm"
Coming from a farmer who practices no-till, this is far from it. Both the broad fork and the sketchy little rototiller thing are forms of tillage.
Why do people who don't till want so badly to be no till?
He isn’t inverting the soil though
@@frankgrimes16that sketchy rototiller most def inverted soil, but tillage doesnt mean the soil is inverted. Ever seen an inline ripper?
@@ThePorktornado It goes 2 inches deep maximum. The little hand drill motor cant't handle hitting anything hard or getting caught in roots. It is the perfect tool to evenly spread compost over a bed quickly, and the flat metal panel on the back leaves the bed moderately compacted. It's just a sped up version of using a rake and a roller. I don't own one, but my friend does and I'll use it sometime, but I mostly just rake. Kinda depends on the sort of shape the bed is in.
Inline rippers go way deeper and they can definitely bring sub soil to the topsoil layer. They try to design the teeth specifically not to do this, but either way its a much more aggressive tilling method than the little tilther machine.
My " NO-TILL" is bigger than your "NO-TILL" . Good heavens but the actual "NO-TILLERS" are a precocious bunch of fanatics. Only true "NO-TILLERS" go to heaven, the rest of us hang around in purgatory until we confess that we have "TILLED" . From my experience, this is a great channel with excellent content about growing vegetables, not a ideology nursery, but I am probably wrong about this as I am not a true "NO -TILLER". Shame on me.
you should try no dig ... way easier
Hey Josh. Love your content sir. May I ask, what camera, mic and drone do you use? Do you like/recommend them?
Thank you. I have been using the Canon EOS R, Rode Videomic Pro+ and the DJI Mavic Air. Everything is awesome. I would like to upgrade the drone at some point though.
Would you do the same process if the beds were outdoors or does anything change? Love your channel. Thanks
Greetings Josh....I'm binge-ing your content! Love it. I'm curious how you determine which crops are grown in the high tunnel vs. outdoors? Maybe thats a video i haven't found yet. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you have been enjoying the videos. I haven't done a video specifically on that. It's always a case by case basis per bed where things go. It depends a lot on the season too and what I have space for. Thanks for watching!
Can 4please discuss in a video your ferlilzer you use during the growing season. I know you use soil tests but what specifically do you use in between
Josh, Where did you get your particular broad fork - it looks like a good size and proportion. Thank you for all your wonderful ideas and advice.
PSA sulfur doesn't lower pH directly, it does so by-proxie. Excess (over the soils appetite) sulfur will form with other excess minerals, often times resulting in insoluble forms and by-proxie "removing the alkaline" from the ion exchange. What you're doing is correct. I'm just being a scientific wording troll in an effort to get people to Google base saturation.......
Good video and knowledge but the tool with the drill is still tilling just a low level
your soil always looks so beautiful and fluffy! We need a better compost source. It is hard to find anything around here we aren't really in a farming community at all. Any tips on finding good quality compost?
Old Redding Farm Equestrian Centers and arborists are great resources where I live. Also if you use in-situ style composting it eliminates many steps. Google that and hugel kulture.
Test equestrian farm manure before using it. Pesticides that are used on oats can pass through horses and still actively kill crops because they are engineered to work for several years. Dicamba is one. There have been big problems with this.
Mixing up the top couple inches isn’t tilling, assuming you have mulched or “dressed” beds with compost. That said, I think it is a big waste of time for most home gardeners in most circumstances. Just keep it well dressed at all times and rake back the surface to reveal the finer stuff below before direct sowing carrots, parsnips or lettuce.
hi josh informative as always what peppers are you planting did you grow from seed ?
Ever have any critter problems using feather or blood meal? Or do you know of any other alternatives that will not attract them as much? Thanks for the vid Josh.
Do you leave things like peppers and tomatos and cabbage roots in the ground over winter (cutting off the tops) to avoid soil disturbance? If so, are they gone by spring planting?
Hey Josh love your videos mannnn...I'm watching and learning all the way from Fiji islands...pls tell me whats the name of the band or music you played at the beginning of this video.👍👍
I’m confused it’s a no till farm but you tilled it with a tiller? Can someone explain
my thought exactly
It’s a tilther I believe. And it only goes down an inch or so.
The tool is the "Tilther" and it only goes down about an inch, not much different than a rake. I have talked about this in many of my videos.
Do you think the amendments are needed? Have you tried one bed with and one without? How to you feel about using animal products to grow vegetables that could well be bought by vegan customers. Love your vids, thanks.
I have had good results from these amendments so we will continue to use them. If you ever want to experiment with not using amendments, the plants will tell you if they aren't happy.
What are the valves you use to connect your drip lines to the main line? I have not had good luck finding an effecient way to disconnect the lines AND have a valve to turn off the water to individual beds.
Zveryeducatoional and informative. I hope to have a few plots in my farm so all these are helpful. I am interested in Organic Farming. Those soil amendments you talk about, does adding it disqualify the land for Organic Farming? I have in mind salad greens, so is the open use of Greenhouse a good combination with the open plats. So much to learn. Thanks.
We are not certified organic so it doesn't apply to us. If you are certified organic then you need to make sure that all of your amendments are organic. You should always check with your certifier if you have any questions.
Hey, you mentioned your PH is high? Is that because of the woodchips sometimes get incorporated in and also because of the fact they might mulch in between the beds?
For centuries man has been tilling land before planting.
What is the yellow powder stuff you put down at the beginning of the video. Thanks
What do you do when you're not planting your beds ? Coz from what I see, you're really lacking fresh carbon here. It's in your pathways a bit, but on the beds themselves, just compost and fertilizer isn't gonna feed your worms. You'd need a good cover crop in winter that you let flower all the way into May, or to put some wood chips in. Of course you can't put wood chips for all crops (especially not if you sow small seeds), but for transplants like kale, tomatoes, squashes etc... it's perfect. Coz the compost + fertilizer, it's mostly broken down stuff, there's nothing to eat for soil life. I've seen farmers who do what you do, except pure compost. And if you do it outside, you can really run into compaction issues with the , and your soil organic matter content being washed away. At least in your tunnels you control the amount of water, so there's less erosion but outside it's dangerous. The trap is that yeah it looks awesome and it's easy to do. But I've seen videos of farmers with 20 cm of compost, and then just steel-hard clay underneath, coz the compost didn't feed any worm nor did it protect again rain.
Josh are here any type of trellising i can put up in my new farmers friend gothic caterpiller tunnel?
How do you get your feather mill and other additives for your soil? We are new and getting started
Maybe I have missed it in your videos but what are the width of the beds and width of the pathways?
To Live is to learn for them who are Abel to work the land with and in Life...to Enjoy it's fruits that Life Produces...Your garden has come along ways, my friend...Your plants thrive with life...
To find that perFact balance...to feed water to provide an Ideal environment for Life to Thrive.... Did you know ...You can bare the fruit of Life, every month. If you bring your garden to the seasons...Baring the fruit of Life monthly. As they stair stare.step stagger....Life's swagger
Wow...what a wonder Full day and age to live in...to have and to hold the seasons at our finger tips...when Night comes their is lIght..at the flip of a switch...God bless my friend...in Life with life through Life...ForEveHer... wear is life...bite for bite both bread and wine....1st and Last to laugh...Mauhahahha Life....
Every body know each reaps what they sow...Speaking of Life....In the family of Life ,Karma is known..what go's around comes around knott in a ring, in a fig your ate kind of way..And daughter Hope is forEveHer...Yet, hope is never alone if you see hope you see joy for they are hand in hand .com joined twins...Love is peace, my friend...
I know you've changed a lot of things since this video. However you still tend to make 30" rows right? At the 10:36 mark on the video where you explain that the landscape rake is 36" wouldn't it be advantageous to trim (and finish the edge so it's not sharp) 3" off each side of the rake?
II’ve found that those landscape rakes pull the dirt level better when pulled like he’s doing it. When pulled straight like you are suggesting the rake tends to dig in randomly leaving a ‘cut’ in his level surface making him have to back up and rerun it, which would defeat his purpose which is to level the surface in one pass.
We need that light machinery handdrill plough where can you buy them??????