Let's Install a Whole New Front Suspension on the 1934 Ford Pickup
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2020
- This video features the installation of an complete, new front suspension on the 1934 Ford pickup. The original front end was bulky, heavy, ugly, high off the ground, and harsh riding. In its place we will install an all-new "state of the art" (for ancient technology :) front end, featuring a drilled 4"-drop I-Beam axle, Teflon-lubed leaf spring, Ford spindles, GM metric disc brakes, steering arms, and re-fabricated hairpin radius rods, chrome shocks, tie rods, and steering link.
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Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Adan :)
Nicely done Douglas!
Thanks, GW :)
That engineering work would never pass in Australia, .
Very well executed and explained. Thanks
Glad you liked it, BG.
Looks lean 'n mean now! Enjoyed this one. Now back to my amp build...
Thanks, Brian. Good luck with your project.
HUGE PROPS for your "toulouse" reference! Reminds me of an old joke: "Are your trousers too tight, Tolouse?"
Glad you liked it, Dave :)
Slightly less torturous ride, exactly
wow!!! alot of percise work there Uncle Doug you out did yourself on this project ,the car will ride like it was on pillows now and will stop when you need it too
Thanks, Joe. I sure hope so :)
Great class today Doug
Thanks !!! Glad you enjoyed it :)
What a great update, how does it drive and ride and stop. Love the Wheels too. Disc brake conversion with King Pins is so unique. what a great result. Yeah!
The new front end definitely works better than the heavy, bulky old one, but, let's face it, straight axles have their limitations.
The THING is called a spring perch. shackles worked out to the right angle.
Thanks for you input, Mike.
Man you do great work Doug. Amazing! At first I got confused because I thought you had changed the wheels, but then I saw the truck didn't have the tunnel ram intake so realized you must have filmed this some time ago, lol. Fun to watch, you make it look easy but I'm sure it's a lot of very hard work!
Thanks, Ron. Yes, the videos are sometimes mixed up in chronology. I'm sorry for any confusion.
Why didn't you just relocate the hairpin mounts forward?
Major improvement! Spring in front never looks right to me on open wheel cars.
Thanks, Bill :)
Love your videos you must be a teacher? Cool calm and very explanatory. I also have a 1934 ford pick up. Can you tell me the Height of your Grill on your 34 ? Thanks so much
Thanks, Harley. I was a math and science teacher for 18 years. The pickup has gone to a new home so measurements aren't possible.
Hey UD! Just dropped in to check out the new channel! Looking good my friend! Have a great day!!
Thanks, Jack. Welcome :)
@@uncledougshotrodgarage6049 Thank you UD! Watching the install of the kingpins brings back many unpleasant memories of replacing the kingpins and bushings on a 1965 F250 Twin I Beam front end on my old truck. I decided to go with the then fairly new UHMW bushings that were supposed to eliminate kingpin problems...yeah right, lol. Ah, the memories! Lol. I have been thinking of building a T-Bucket roadster for some time now, this front end setup might be just the ticket for said build...now to find a 348 or 409 chevy engine for the visual impact and just plain weirdness factor of having one, lol. Not to be argumentive UD but back in the day we called the rod between the spindles a drag link and the rod going from the steering box to the left spindle the tie rod, again not trying to be that person but is that not correct? because I have been wrong more times than I care to admit, lol. Again not a big thing, I was just wondering.
@@jackallen6261 I definitely approve of your plans, Jack, including the choice of engine. Unfortunately, they are rare as hen's teeth and very expensive to buy and rebuild.....but I would love to have one :) The tie rod "ties" the two spindles together, and the drag link connects the Pittman (steering box) arm and (generally) the driver's spindle.....according to Wiki :)
Well, then I stand corrected!
@@jackallen6261 Don't feel bad, Jack. I had to look it up to be sure.
Doug where shock mounts?
Shocks were added later, FW.
tolouse lautrec haha :D
What front tires and rims are those? Where did you get them?
As I recall, the rims are polished American Torque Thrusts 15" x 4" with Coker repro Goodyear tires from Speedway.
Hi Uncle Doug. Nice improvement on the hot rod. I have been trying to help a friend with a 32 Ford lowered roadster. It has the original steering gear box with an updated front end much like what you just installed in this video. Problem is dangerous bump steer caused by the upward angle of the drag link from the pitman arm to the steering arm at the spindle. I think the solution would be a different steering box that would have the pitman arm pointing up rather than down as your car has.. What steering box would best for this without drastic modifications to the car. Thanks Ed.
Thanks, Ed. To be honest, I'm not sure what steering box the '34 has, but bump steer is not an issue at all with the set up I have. It's important to have the rod between the steering arm and spindle to be as close to horizontal as possible. Also see my video on adding a Panhard rod to the front straight axle. It really helped to eliminate some spooky steering in my '30 Coupe.
@@uncledougshotrodgarage6049 Thanks Doug. You always have great videos.
Very well articulated sir & 💯 % improvement on the original installation. The stance is perfect & the addition of the polished five spokes really shout Hotrod. Out of interest what size rims/tires did you fit ? I’m in the midst of deciding whether or not to replace my painted steel rims & Firestone Champion cross plies.
Regards from the U.K.
Geof
Thanks so much, Geof. The rear wheels are 17" x 9.5" and the front are 15" x 4".
@@uncledougshotrodgarage6049
Many thanks for replying, I appreciate it 👍
When you lower the front end of a car, how do you sit?
do you sit facing down the slope, or parallel to the road, Id imagine the first one could put a lot of wear on your knees...and front tyres
The amount of forward tilt, or "rake", is not noticeable from inside the car, unless it is extreme......which it is not in this case.....nor does it seem to affect front tire wear in any noticeable way.
@@uncledougshotrodgarage6049 I guess the only way to tell is to look at your drink in the cup holder haha
@@phonotical Yes, it's a built-in inclinometer.
@@uncledougshotrodgarage6049 and dinosaurometer :D
Doug,
As usual , a GREAT video. Thanks for posting.
What paint do you use on your suspension (black parts).
Stay Real.
Thanks, BSG. I use aerosol Engine spray paint. The increased resistance to heat and chemicals provides a durable finish.
Do Not Use This Video As An Instruction Manual... it contains some Dangerous construction elements!
It appears in the video there are no threads coming thru batwing nylon locking nuts. Also, no washer between batwing Allen bolts head and joint ball. This prevents hein joint from sliding out over bolt should heim end fail. Scary...
if you need more distance, film into a mirror!
What if there is no room for a mirror ?? :)
@@uncledougshotrodgarage6049 ummmmmmmmmm, you might need a new house :)
@@phonotical I'd need two vans just to move the workshop :O