Important Note: 1/4" AR500 is good for rimfire and NON-MAGNUM pistol rounds. Up to .45 ACP you're good to go. .44 Magnum and cartridges like that need to move up to 3/8" AR500.
It’s not only the impact that count but also the size/ model of the target. If you have full size , old style pepper poppers , they tend to bend over time because they fall down on a post many times. Also there is no need to use ar500 for rimfire only targets at all. Regular steel works just fine or a lower AR grade . There’s not enough energy in a rimfire bullet to do any damage.
Even rimfire will mushroom the edges of a small mild steel target over time and the shape of the target makes a difference too. I make my rimfire KYL's out of the same material I make my centerfire rifle targets because with the skinny 1/4" wide stems, 1/4" AR500 would start bending after a single match.
@@johncantrell3049 it DOES matter. You can even stop missiles strikes if you have enough layers of cottons or marshmallows...this is common sense physics. People saying and thinking things like thickness doesn't matter is just retarded and don't understand real world physics...
@@johncantrell3049 .50BMG travels about 5 miles if shot at an angle. .308 travels about 3 miles if shot at an angle. Even 5 miles and 3 miles of atmospheric air is bullet proof lol. If you are claiming thickness doesn't matter that means the bullet will go on and on w/o stopping or even slowing down thru the air...
@@7150285 I’m saying the thickness of your target will still be damaged, divots on the surface of your target. Divots can cause ricochet’s. Obviously it will stop all rounds. But in terms of safety I wouldn’t want to shoot it from close range.
@@johncantrell3049 oh hell it will cause ricochete for sure, common sense, if bullet doesn't penetrate all the way thru the target and the bullet doesn't fragment into pieces, all that energy has to go somewhere, and often times back towards the shooter like Edwin Sarkissian's & Going Ballistics' videos.
I really wish I could tell you that would be fine but you're not gaining anything going to 1/2". Green tips really don't do appreciably more damage to AR500 targets than lead core fmj's do. The problem is that the steel cores don't fragment and lose their energy like lead does, they ricochet off the target and maintain their energy much longer. I was at a demo event where a steel shed that was 30 yards from the steel targets had little steel core keyholes in the steel siding. There are "safety rules" that are there to cover manufacturers liability and there are "SAFETY RULES" that are important for preserving life and limb and in this instance, it's the latter.
Can 3/8 stop rifles? The Brewster body shield was around 5.5mm and can stop 308 Winchester. Makes ya think. It was made of alloy steel so I guess that is your answer.
What's your opinion on 1/4 inch for rifles at more extended ranges? Thinking of getting a larger plate, something in the 18 to 20 inch range but that isn't as heavy. Mostly would be shot with 6.5 creedmoor at 500 plus yards. I have a 3/8 gong that I've shot with 300 win mag at 300 yards and further and it's held up just fine, but id like a bigger one without getting so heavy.
hi, we shoot 6.5creedmoor, 7mm rem-mag, and 308 all using hornady red tip eld-x/m up to 2,000 yards. we shoot a 1/4 ar500 plate (2ftx2ft). at 100-400yards, all 3 calibers dent and remove some material (1-2mm) off the ar500, but it does not go through. at 500+ yards the 6.5 creed and the 308 do not dent anymore and leave a small scuff, the 7mm still dents. at 800 yards all 3 no longer dent or remove material. been shooting the same ar500 plate for 10 years now between 1,000- to 2,000 yards and still holding up just fine, still shooting it. if i was to guess i would say its been hit aprox 1,500 times with those 3 calibers.
I just bought a 1/2 inch steel target, I’m shooting a 300 blackout rifle with 220gr. How close you think I can shoot it without blowback from the impact
With a slow heavy round like that it'll behave more like a pistol caliber. 50+ yards should be just fine but make sure you've always got eye protection on when shooting steel.
It's a common misconception that those big rounds do terrible damage but they're really not hard on steel. It's the small/fast calibers that tear things up. You would have to keep an eye on the target dishing though if you shoot at it a ton with those big boys.
It would be quieter for sure but it'll still ring and be a lot more expensive. You could do some other things like hanging them with rubber straps or lean them against something that'll keep them from vibrating. www.atlastargetworks.com/collections/target-bases-mounts-1/products/rubber-target-hangers
i have a .45 cal. smokeless muzzleloader shooting up to 300 grain solid copper or bonded lead at 2700 fps . will the 1/2 inch ar500 at 100 yards be a long lasting/durable target ? that will be my heaviest load . my deer load is 195/200 grain at 2500ish fps . looking at either a 10" or 12" round or %33 torso .
That 300/2700 round is too hot for even 1/2" at that range. If you could put the target at a distance where the bullet is 2250 fps or slower you should be fine. Also, solid copper projectiles aren't recommended for steel targets. Both for the hurtin they can put on them as well as the ricochet risk (lead projectiles basically explode). Your deer load should be fine on 3/8" as long as it's a lead projectile.
I can't find a straight answer so... What is 1/4 in ar500 rated to stop at 10 or more feet away (rlly close, i'm not testing at this distance) and also what would it be rated if I put 1/4 mild overtop?
Thanks for the info, however, we have had 3/8" thick AR500 plates et up at 300 yards for some time and consistently get broke at the ears where the plates are mounted. We have just purchased 1/2" AR to mount at the same distance to help from them getting broke. Is this possibly just from cheaper steel, or why do they keep getting broke? I'm a member at a range and am trying to help them cut some costs on replacing the plates. Thanks!
Cracking is another issue. AR500 is hard so it can resist pitting, but with hardness comes some level of brittleness. There's no way around it and I always recommend 1/2" AR500 for ranges. They will last longer than 3/8" but they will still eventually crack. It's just the nature of the steel when it's getting hammered that many times.
From doing some research on different plate companies, they design the plates a bit different at the ears and some have a longer radius on those ears than others. It seems to me that with a longer radius on those ears they would hold up better with larger caliber rifles at 300 yards like a 300 win mag. Just my way of thinking. I've seen the rating on most 1/2" plates say anything under 3,000 FPS but even at 300 yards the velocity and energy delivered is substantial and apparently enough to break at that point. Thanks for the reply and information as I'm just trying to analyze and find something that will work longer for our use. @@AtlasTargetWorks
Would it be acceptable in your opinion to shoot 3/8" steel at 20 yards with an AR pistol? I do it all the time and haven't noticed any pitting or dents.
If the steel is handling it fine then it's really about what personal risk you're willing to accept. The closer you are to the target the more likely you are to have small fragments of the bullet/jacket come back at you.
I'd recommend 3/8" for 5.56 and the like. Anything non-magnum really. Even then it'll handle magnum rounds just fine if the targets are out the 200-300+ yds.
@AtlasTargetWorks The area that I'm able to practice at is max 100 yards, so that is why I was hoping 1/2 thick would do well. Thank you for the reply and continue posting good content.
@@GoingPostal_mv In a nutshell, the faster the round the more it will pit a target. The heavier a round the more it will dent the target. Making the target thicker doesn't change it's ability the handle the pitting, but it does help it resist denting. The 5.56 is a round that pitting is a concern, but not denting.
It'll pit more but not terribly so. All you can do is test it out and see if you're fine with it. I will say that going thicker won't reduce the pitting. In theory it'll be worse because the additional mass won't give with the impact. It will give you more target to chew through but if you're that deep into it it's shot anyway. Email me and I'll shoot one of mine at 50 yds with .223 fmj's and I'll send you a picture.
@@AtlasTargetWorks thanks yeah we shot some 3/8 with a S&W 15 and it put huge pits but it was like 40 yards lol. I can probably get a 50 yard set up and a ar 500 steel Walmart target and figure something out.Might just have to buy a new target after a while.I like plinking the 15 22 lr s&w anyhow it’s cheaper ammo and good practice.
3/8" will be fine for a handful of slugs but if you're going to shoot a ton of them I'd go with 1/2". I remember seeing AC zone targets that were cracking at the neck (not my targets but still a sign of high stress) because of all the slug impacts they were taking.
I don't think AR550 will work for you either. It's only 10% harder so even if it doesn't punch through it'll still leave a NASTY pit. You need to move that target out further.
@@AtlasTargetWorks I do iron sights, 200 max for my eyes. But yea Ill have to try something else, its a 1905 Gewehr 98 8mm, my dad had Sporterized in 70's
The faster rounds cause pits in the steel and those pits are what cause small fragments of the bullets to deflect back toward the shooter. That being said, this is mainly a concern if you're bringing the target in closer to shoot pistol at it. If you're at 100 yards shooting it with a rifle and there are some pits on it (within reason) it's unlikely that those small fragments will have the energy to make it very far. Although I'm not going to say it's impossible so do so at your own risk.
I don't know for sure but 400+ should be safe for 1/4". It'll probably stop it at 100 just fine but you'll end up bending your plate if you shoot too close.
@@AtlasTargetWorks i am trying to guess the distance for a fixed target (not just hanging), to just stop the bullet even with some deformation can be good. So being a fixed plate how much would it be the top distance to stop 308?
If all you want to shoot is pinky fingers off…. Steel plates don’t Really work….. that’s why I like paper targets with the body out lined or even with the bullseye…… help muscles memory with placement I think
Let me be the first to introduce you to targets that aren't circles or squares! www.atlastargetworks.com/products/ar500-human-silhouette-w-anatomically-correct-head
People had shot thru 1/4" AR500 ballistic body armor with .223/5.56mm out of a long barrel like 20" barrell. With 3/8" AR500 steel .223/5.56mm won't penetrate it but will leave dimples for sure.
Important Note: 1/4" AR500 is good for rimfire and NON-MAGNUM pistol rounds. Up to .45 ACP you're good to go. .44 Magnum and cartridges like that need to move up to 3/8" AR500.
Thanks for the info. I'm transitioning to steel targets from paper. I like the ring of gongs. Instant gratification lol
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to film and edit it and of course for positing it for our benefit. Keep up the good work! -Migs
It’s not only the impact that count but also the size/ model of the target. If you have full size , old style pepper poppers , they tend to bend over time because they fall down on a post many times. Also there is no need to use ar500 for rimfire only targets at all. Regular steel works just fine or a lower AR grade . There’s not enough energy in a rimfire bullet to do any damage.
Even rimfire will mushroom the edges of a small mild steel target over time and the shape of the target makes a difference too. I make my rimfire KYL's out of the same material I make my centerfire rifle targets because with the skinny 1/4" wide stems, 1/4" AR500 would start bending after a single match.
Shotgun specific video would be great for 00buck and slugs on Ar500 steel
Just what I needed, thank you
I have up to 4inch thick ar500 steel plates at my house! 4inch thick probably withstand nuclear explosions at ground zero.
It will still pit from a high speed round at close distance. Doesn’t matter how thick it is.
@@johncantrell3049 it DOES matter. You can even stop missiles strikes if you have enough layers of cottons or marshmallows...this is common sense physics. People saying and thinking things like thickness doesn't matter is just retarded and don't understand real world physics...
@@johncantrell3049 .50BMG travels about 5 miles if shot at an angle. .308 travels about 3 miles if shot at an angle. Even 5 miles and 3 miles of atmospheric air is bullet proof lol. If you are claiming thickness doesn't matter that means the bullet will go on and on w/o stopping or even slowing down thru the air...
@@7150285 I’m saying the thickness of your target will still be damaged, divots on the surface of your target. Divots can cause ricochet’s. Obviously it will stop all rounds. But in terms of safety I wouldn’t want to shoot it from close range.
@@johncantrell3049 oh hell it will cause ricochete for sure, common sense, if bullet doesn't penetrate all the way thru the target and the bullet doesn't fragment into pieces, all that energy has to go somewhere, and often times back towards the shooter like Edwin Sarkissian's & Going Ballistics' videos.
I appreciate you brother
I guess I should avoid shooting any plates at the club with my old .220 Swift (4,000+ fps).
haha, that's pretty zippy! You can still shoot steel but you'll want it to be at 200 yards plus.
Man, probably a stupid question. But 5.56 green tip 62g bullets. Max distance 50 yards. Should I go 1/2”?
I really wish I could tell you that would be fine but you're not gaining anything going to 1/2". Green tips really don't do appreciably more damage to AR500 targets than lead core fmj's do. The problem is that the steel cores don't fragment and lose their energy like lead does, they ricochet off the target and maintain their energy much longer. I was at a demo event where a steel shed that was 30 yards from the steel targets had little steel core keyholes in the steel siding. There are "safety rules" that are there to cover manufacturers liability and there are "SAFETY RULES" that are important for preserving life and limb and in this instance, it's the latter.
Will those super fast 22. Winchester Magnum rounds be okay for 1/4 AR500? Or the .17 HMR?
They're no problem for AR500 or my new SR500+ material. I wouldn't use them with AR400 targets (I don't use this material but some manufacturers do)
what about 00 buck high brass on a 3/8 inch ar500 plate at about 30 feet
also are high brass slugs ok for 3/8 ar500 steel at 30 feet maybe closer about 20 ?
When the dishes bend/warp a lot, do they stop being effective, or what happens? Do they function the same, more or less?
Can 3/8 stop rifles? The Brewster body shield was around 5.5mm and can stop 308 Winchester. Makes ya think. It was made of alloy steel so I guess that is your answer.
3/8" will stop most rifles no problem... but that would be one heavy body shield!
@@AtlasTargetWorks Truly. I have a question, why could armor that’s over 6mm thick not be able to stop musket balls in the napoleonic era?
@@AtlasTargetWorks I’ll elaborate, why couldn’t they stop multiple of them at close range.
@allycatnaranjo8960 it can for most calibers including .308.
@@AtlasTargetWorks Would that mean it’s level 3 or “3+”
How about 855 vs 109 have you seen any damage done with either round more than the other
What is distance shooter should be from steel targets when shooting. 22 rimfire from a pistol?
Whats up with the weird backdrop? Very disorienting
.223 fmj out of a 16” barrel 25 yards 3/8 ar500 steel. Never shot steel before. Opinions?
The closest I've seen steel targets rated for any rifle is 50 yards if the target is angled.
What's your opinion on 1/4 inch for rifles at more extended ranges? Thinking of getting a larger plate, something in the 18 to 20 inch range but that isn't as heavy. Mostly would be shot with 6.5 creedmoor at 500 plus yards. I have a 3/8 gong that I've shot with 300 win mag at 300 yards and further and it's held up just fine, but id like a bigger one without getting so heavy.
That works just fine. Email or call me for a quote. Contact info at atlastargetworks.com
hi, we shoot 6.5creedmoor, 7mm rem-mag, and 308 all using hornady red tip eld-x/m up to 2,000 yards. we shoot a 1/4 ar500 plate (2ftx2ft). at 100-400yards, all 3 calibers dent and remove some material (1-2mm) off the ar500, but it does not go through. at 500+ yards the 6.5 creed and the 308 do not dent anymore and leave a small scuff, the 7mm still dents. at 800 yards all 3 no longer dent or remove material. been shooting the same ar500 plate for 10 years now between 1,000- to 2,000 yards and still holding up just fine, still shooting it. if i was to guess i would say its been hit aprox 1,500 times with those 3 calibers.
Which thickness would you recommend for a .308 at 100 yards? Any answers will be appreciated.
3/8" will handle that and more, no problem.
I just bought a 1/2 inch steel target, I’m shooting a 300 blackout rifle with 220gr. How close you think I can shoot it without blowback from the impact
With a slow heavy round like that it'll behave more like a pistol caliber. 50+ yards should be just fine but make sure you've always got eye protection on when shooting steel.
I shot a 1/2 inch Ar500 plate at 50 yards with a 338 lapua magnum and it did absolutely nothing to the plate.
It's a common misconception that those big rounds do terrible damage but they're really not hard on steel. It's the small/fast calibers that tear things up. You would have to keep an eye on the target dishing though if you shoot at it a ton with those big boys.
I shoot .22's at my targets in my backyard, I don't want a LOUD ring. Would a 1/2 inch be noticeably quieter than 1/4 inch steel target?
It would be quieter for sure but it'll still ring and be a lot more expensive. You could do some other things like hanging them with rubber straps or lean them against something that'll keep them from vibrating.
www.atlastargetworks.com/collections/target-bases-mounts-1/products/rubber-target-hangers
i have a .45 cal. smokeless muzzleloader shooting up to 300 grain solid copper or bonded lead at 2700 fps .
will the 1/2 inch ar500 at 100 yards be a long lasting/durable target ?
that will be my heaviest load .
my deer load is 195/200 grain at 2500ish fps .
looking at either a 10" or 12" round or %33 torso .
That 300/2700 round is too hot for even 1/2" at that range. If you could put the target at a distance where the bullet is 2250 fps or slower you should be fine. Also, solid copper projectiles aren't recommended for steel targets. Both for the hurtin they can put on them as well as the ricochet risk (lead projectiles basically explode). Your deer load should be fine on 3/8" as long as it's a lead projectile.
What would you suggest for a 308 win.?
3/8" AR500 can handle that no problem.
So 7mm rem mag at 400 yards should be fine with the 3/8 target?
That's what I would go with.
I can't find a straight answer so... What is 1/4 in ar500 rated to stop at 10 or more feet away (rlly close, i'm not testing at this distance) and also what would it be rated if I put 1/4 mild overtop?
Anyone know how a 1/4" AR500 holds up against a 9mm from 15-20 yards (typical outdoor range bay distance)?
It'll hold up just fine
Thanks for the info, however, we have had 3/8" thick AR500 plates et up at 300 yards for some time and consistently get broke at the ears where the plates are mounted. We have just purchased 1/2" AR to mount at the same distance to help from them getting broke. Is this possibly just from cheaper steel, or why do they keep getting broke? I'm a member at a range and am trying to help them cut some costs on replacing the plates. Thanks!
Cracking is another issue. AR500 is hard so it can resist pitting, but with hardness comes some level of brittleness. There's no way around it and I always recommend 1/2" AR500 for ranges. They will last longer than 3/8" but they will still eventually crack. It's just the nature of the steel when it's getting hammered that many times.
From doing some research on different plate companies, they design the plates a bit different at the ears and some have a longer radius on those ears than others. It seems to me that with a longer radius on those ears they would hold up better with larger caliber rifles at 300 yards like a 300 win mag. Just my way of thinking. I've seen the rating on most 1/2" plates say anything under 3,000 FPS but even at 300 yards the velocity and energy delivered is substantial and apparently enough to break at that point. Thanks for the reply and information as I'm just trying to analyze and find something that will work longer for our use. @@AtlasTargetWorks
Which thickness would give the best ring at 100 yards for 5.56
3/8" is what you want.
Would it be acceptable in your opinion to shoot 3/8" steel at 20 yards with an AR pistol? I do it all the time and haven't noticed any pitting or dents.
If the steel is handling it fine then it's really about what personal risk you're willing to accept. The closer you are to the target the more likely you are to have small fragments of the bullet/jacket come back at you.
what would you recommend for 450 round?
So it sounds like 1/2 in. AR500 will hold up well with 5.56 at 100 yards?
I'd recommend 3/8" for 5.56 and the like. Anything non-magnum really. Even then it'll handle magnum rounds just fine if the targets are out the 200-300+ yds.
@AtlasTargetWorks The area that I'm able to practice at is max 100 yards, so that is why I was hoping 1/2 thick would do well. Thank you for the reply and continue posting good content.
@@GoingPostal_mv In a nutshell, the faster the round the more it will pit a target. The heavier a round the more it will dent the target. Making the target thicker doesn't change it's ability the handle the pitting, but it does help it resist denting. The 5.56 is a round that pitting is a concern, but not denting.
how about black powder muskets pushing .50-.75 balls? like a nice 2.x4' size target
I'd go with 1/2" to keep it from warping over time.
Is 50 yards with 223 Ar15 on half inch “ steel good without heavy pitting? 50 yards is all there is to work with
It'll pit more but not terribly so. All you can do is test it out and see if you're fine with it. I will say that going thicker won't reduce the pitting. In theory it'll be worse because the additional mass won't give with the impact. It will give you more target to chew through but if you're that deep into it it's shot anyway. Email me and I'll shoot one of mine at 50 yds with .223 fmj's and I'll send you a picture.
@@AtlasTargetWorks thanks yeah we shot some 3/8 with a S&W 15 and it put huge pits but it was like 40 yards lol. I can probably get a 50 yard set up and a ar 500 steel Walmart target and figure something out.Might just have to buy a new target after a while.I like plinking the 15 22 lr s&w anyhow it’s cheaper ammo and good practice.
@@johnavy1722 email me a picture if you can and I'll take a look. bradnorton@atlastargetworks.com
Have AR500 steel 3/8 Will a 12 gauge shotgun slugs break the steel thanks
3/8" will be fine for a handful of slugs but if you're going to shoot a ton of them I'd go with 1/2". I remember seeing AC zone targets that were cracking at the neck (not my targets but still a sign of high stress) because of all the slug impacts they were taking.
FMJ is ok as long as it's under 3000 fps at impact ?
Correct
So looking online 1/2'' ar550 will work for 8mm fmj? My buddy has 1/2'' ar500 and it punched right threw it at 200yrds
I don't think AR550 will work for you either. It's only 10% harder so even if it doesn't punch through it'll still leave a NASTY pit. You need to move that target out further.
@@AtlasTargetWorks I do iron sights, 200 max for my eyes. But yea Ill have to try something else, its a 1905 Gewehr 98 8mm, my dad had Sporterized in 70's
is it dangerous to shoot over 3000 fps, or it just pits the metal?
The faster rounds cause pits in the steel and those pits are what cause small fragments of the bullets to deflect back toward the shooter. That being said, this is mainly a concern if you're bringing the target in closer to shoot pistol at it. If you're at 100 yards shooting it with a rifle and there are some pits on it (within reason) it's unlikely that those small fragments will have the energy to make it very far. Although I'm not going to say it's impossible so do so at your own risk.
How far should the 1/4" ar500 stop the 308?
I don't know for sure but 400+ should be safe for 1/4". It'll probably stop it at 100 just fine but you'll end up bending your plate if you shoot too close.
@@AtlasTargetWorks i am trying to guess the distance for a fixed target (not just hanging), to just stop the bullet even with some deformation can be good. So being a fixed plate how much would it be the top distance to stop 308?
If all you want to shoot is pinky fingers off…. Steel plates don’t Really work….. that’s why I like paper targets with the body out lined or even with the bullseye…… help muscles memory with placement I think
Let me be the first to introduce you to targets that aren't circles or squares! www.atlastargetworks.com/products/ar500-human-silhouette-w-anatomically-correct-head
So I guess 100 yds with 223/5.56 is going to penetrate 3/8 AR500?
No. It may leave a tiny dimple but nothing more.
People had shot thru 1/4" AR500 ballistic body armor with .223/5.56mm out of a long barrel like 20" barrell. With 3/8" AR500 steel .223/5.56mm won't penetrate it but will leave dimples for sure.
3/8 at 50 yards..30.06..hardly shows