Best Warthog Stiction Fix,ThrustMaster HOTAS NEW,Complete Disassembly, Grease Replacement,
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2018
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*NEW VERSION*. Want to know how to fix your thrustmaster warthog? How to Re-grease the TM warthog? or just rebuild the warthog base? Just follow along this tutorial step by step. READ THIS DESCRIPTION PLEASE. (((UNPLUG YOUR warthog STICK BEFORE DISASSEMBLY!!)))This is an Updated video of the ORIGINAL MOD that I started about 6 years ago in 2013 Link at bottom.
THIS IS THE COMPLETE disassembly/breakdown of the Thrustmaster hotas warthog joystick flight controller. Mine had HORRIBLE stiction. This video explains why this is and how to fix the problem. If you have not replaced your grease. When you take it apart for the first time it will have red grease in it.
Lots of people are replacing with silicone grease but I have found that it does not hold up and you need something thicker that has a higher pressure rating. I have written multiple production experts and have found out that the grease I use is non reactive and plastic safe. It is calcium sulfonate based. the link to it will be below. USE A PLASTIC SAFE GREASE AND MAKE IT THICK. Synthetics are usually great. I do recommend the grease in the link below from west marine. its lewmar winch grease and is really a great grease to use. ((also if you are going to go without putting in the o-ring Make sure you sand the edges of the metal rig under the o-ring. )) this will allow the thrustmaster warthog fix to not wear the plastic as much. This fix will make your joystick/flight system smooth as butter. disassembly of the warthog base is easy. just follow step by step to smooth out that stiction problem. Fix mod and regrease that hog. Check the link below to find out in detail of the warthog o-ring. PLEASE LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE... I'm back and I'll be posting much more content soon. so keep an eye out. Have a great day and thank you for viewing. Its really appreciated.
The Grease, The best that I have found for this: amzn.to/3dQOiC1
Get the stick: amzn.to/3fY9Kan
Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/3hVv5Tz
As and amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Oring location: • Warthog O-ring locatio...
Original 2013 video: • ThrustMaster HOTAS War... - Jak na to + styl
Hey Ronin, this tutorial is really great as you not only show the little problem of the Warthog, but you also show how to fix it, awesome. I don't have this HOTAS just yet but I will definitely get it soon. Thank you for your time for making this, for me is really helpful.
Thank YOU... very much for the comment. I really appreciate it. Have fun.
What an amazing video. I mean really the amount of detail and information you put into this. Wow. I enjoy taking apart and fixing stuff on my own as well and how you explained everything. Hats off to you good sir!
Thank you very much. I really do appreciate that comment. You take care out there.
I only watched like 3 minutes into the video because I wanted to check how you would take this apart because the stick moved weird. I found out it was because in my brother's stick the apparently infamous o-ring came lose completely and got stuck. It was good to know about the big spring beforehand. Thank you very much for this video! I also cleaned and greased all the parts I had to take apart for this. I was surprised that virtually no dirt was in that lower gimbal part. I expected it to collect all kinds of crumbs and whatnot.
Yeah that seems to be the most common problem. Hope it works great now. Thank you and have fun
i know this is an old video,but i just want to thank you for it.
i just regreased my thrustmaster warthog stick using the Nyogel 767A and followed your step by step guide,it went flawlessly
the difference was bigger then i ever anticipated.
thx again for this handy video
Your very welcome, Thank you for the great comment. I'm glad it helped you out. Take care and enjoy the new stick 😆.
I needed to open up my stick to resolder the DIN connector. This guide is exactly what I needed, and I got to regreasing along with the soldering. Thanks!
Thank you for the comments. Happy to help and urge very welcome
Thanks. I actually regressed my warthog right after I got it. Today I used sandpaper to grind excessive plastic. Took me a couple of hours. I can finally fly without extension:) also I had a little bit of a break(2 years) from flying so this is also nice. Cheers bro
just found this video as my tm warthog stick was giving me the same problems. was gonna go buy a virpil base but found this and thought I might as well give it a go! Great video and now i have some extra money in my pocket. Thank you so much!
Awesome! Well good luck with it and don't forget to bevel the edges slightly on the metal ring in the pressure plate with 250-300 grit paper If you remove the O-Ring. you can sand with smoother paper if you like. Also slightly sand the 4 holes in the white spacer the main steel mounting poles slide through on the pressure plate by rolling a piece of sand paper and sanding inside the holes just until it slides freely on the steel poles (( NOT LOOSELY )). So sand just a little. Also watch the wires on reassembly this is were most people pinch them . Grease is soooo important. check out the comments on bad greases. It needs the thicker grade ngli 2. I have a link to the one i prefer in the description. Good luck and take care.
Mine just arrived today, and I was underwhelmed with how the stick felt. I'm underwhelmed I have to do this to a brand new piece of expensive kit, but I am glad that there is a good fix out there. Thank you for taking the time to put together the video
Your welcome and thank you.
Thanks for the tutorial. I did it today, my O-ring was damaged and did lock my Joystick and the red grease was sticky like a chewing gum now. Great Video, which helped a lot.
Thank you, I'm really glad it helped. And that's why I put it up. Have fun with the new stick lol.
@@RippleLife yes thanks it is working fine again.
this was the best video on this. You didn't go bonkers with the grease. I just got done and WOW buuudddderr! I also had to solder the power wire in the base plug to the grip. It broke today and every button on the grip lit up in Game Controls...fig I was in here may as well get it done. Wish I had when I got it!
Thank you, your very welcome. I'm really glad that it helped. Enjoy your new stick lol.
This has worked out so well. Amazing difference in my stick. Thanks so much. 👍
Your welcome and thank you. Glad it helped.
Thank you! i was unaware of this problem when I ordered the Warthog. Your video is amazing and i cant wait to due this little upgrade when mine arrives
Thank you and I'm glad it may help. Try your new one out first. Sometimes they will be great for a while. Take care
Just a quick note to say thanks very much for the video. It was hugely useful and very well explained and clear :)
Well thank you very much! It,s really nice to know it helps and glad I could be of assistance. Be safe and take care.
Awsome video lad just completed fixing my warthog works like a dream, bit perthetic that you have to take this step considering the amount of money these hotas cost , thrust master got some explaining to do , not the first issue I've had with thrust master. cheers again
Thank you. Yeah I know right. Glad it helped. Take care.
I’m watching this while waiting for mine to arrive. I have nyogel already. What you show seems very well thought and executed. Thank you, sir 👍
Thank you, but check yours out first. Onetime they are great right out of the box and you may not need to do this for a while. Enjoy it and have fun flying.
@@RippleLife I’m waiting on mine to arrive too. It was advertised as the 2021 edition?? Is that a thing? Has thrustmaster fixed these flaws in the newer version do you know? Thanks
@@ReplyNI hi, I don't know if they have fixed the issues. But I think there are some good ones out there that don't stick. Just have to get lucky. I don't really know anything about the newest versions sorry. My guess is that they havn't put the money into addressing issues. Know this didn’t help but I hope your new stick is good to go. Have fun. And take care.
thanks! that was informative, the pads on top and how the gimbal came apart sections answered my questions. my warthog is old, more than 10 years, so it may be different. my two gimbal plugs have little ribs that fit into slots on top of their holes. put mine back together and it showed in settings but not in game controllers. tried a few fixes to no avail, took it all back apart and found i had somehow broken a wire. fixed that and tada i can calibrate it now. MSFS didn't detect it either but does now.
Glad it all worked out. Take care.
Great instructional video .. that works well! I wouldn't use any grease on the pressure plate and springs or outer ball cover myself - it just attracts the dirt Just keep them dry and clean.
BUT
I've since replaced the primary ball/socket grease with a high viscosity damping grease (Nyogel 767A). It's important to ONLY use it on the main ball bearing surface - NOT the inner ball assembly or any other parts. It's not necessary and important that the inner ball and pressure plate mechanism can move freely (are NOT damped). It's a very high quality specialist commercial product - typically used for camera zoom lenses, soft opening cassette doors etc. It produces an incredibly smooth damped action and once applied it never deteriorates so you'll never need to repeat the conversion. If you let go of the stick, it smoothly returns to it's centre. It TOTALLY transforms the feel of the stick to that of a hydraulically damped stick. The bad news is it isn't cheap BUT there's enough to convert several joysticks. Very highly recommended as an add on to this procedure and you want the ultimate feel to your Warthog!
Thanks again
Hi thanks for the comment and the info. Although I'm not i have used the exact nyogel you listed I have had bad luck with the nyogel i did use. It did not last. Felt great for about 2 weeks with heavy use and went down from there.
I have not had an issue with dirt or dust at all in any stick with the current grease I use or used. I've tried silicone nyogel and a cople.of others I can't remember lol and the winch grease is best I have used. If I run across some 767 ill give it a try again because it might be a different one than I used and I'm always looking for better stuff lol. Thanks again and enjoy the stick. Take care.
OKAY you deserve a BIG reward of some kind just for the tools etc needed given IMMEDIATLY.
TY
Mine arrived yesterday and seems fine, but thanks for the video if it ever gets like that.
Np. Have some fun.
Ok the only thing i miss are those pliers to take the plugs out. I delayed this fix for long enough, this quarintine seems to be a perfect time to do this. Thank you very much for the video man!
Yeah it is.. thank you for the comment. I,m really glad I/it could help. Enjoy the build and Good luck with it. Be safe out there.
I bought this stick from guy who using this only 3 months. If this guy see this video he didn't sell me this for half of price 😀 3h work but now it works perfect. Thank you for this video.
Your very welcome. I appreciate it. Thank you for the great comment.
I got my hotas new about two months ago. Already noticing stiction and its driving me nuts when flying MSFS. It feels like im grabbing micro-detents when rotating aircraft. Something I never experienced with my X52 Pro.
What a shame that we need to go through all this on such an expensive stick but i suppose at this point, it's like a right of passage to use the warthog. Im not yet sure what grease to go for though. Nylogel 767A seems to be one that comes up a lot in research. It looks like it makes the stick relatively slow to return to center though.
@@r4microds Hi.... yeah I know. Really wish they had a little better engineering. It's worth it when done though, make sure to read all of the description. On the grease. I don't prefer the nyogel as some do. I like the winch grease from lewmar it lasts longer before I have to redistribute it. The link is in the description. Watch your wires as I state in the video. You'll notice in the comments a few people pinch the wires. Just be careful and good luck.
Awesome vid, thanks for taking the time to make it 👍👍
Very welcome and ty 😊
Just bought this joystick recently for helo flying and found it very sticky esp with the main spring removed. After following this procedure very carefully it is now silky smooth. Much appreciated advice! :)
Thank you for the comment. Really glad it helped.
Thank you very much for this detailed video. I did like you described, and results are outstanding! Thank you for you time!
You are very welcome, Im glad it helped. Thank you for the. Comment and have a great day.
Thanks for the instruction. Looking to buy my first Worthog Hotas.
Your very welcome. Have fun with it.
Thank you sir, my joystick is beaming :], again thank you for the time and detail you have put in this video.
Your very welcome and Thank You. Enjoy
I recently had to fix the binding I had in my warthog HOTAS. I fixed mine with a different method. I removed all the red grease as it was the wrong type for this application anyway. All I had to do to fix it was to slightly loosen the 8 screws (just to hand tight with not much effort) holding the 4 silver posts that the teflon guide slides on. After cleaning the grease off, I put a very small amount of graphite powder (careful, graphite is conductive - keep away from the electronics) on the posts. I put it all back together. It is now silky smooth with no grease at all. The only problem now is the big spring strength seems a bit too strong when the moving the stick away or toward the centre point, but I think that is just inherent in the design.
Glad that worked for you. But I don't recommend that as the graphite is conductive and it is highly likely it's only a temp fix with the graphite. And it messy lol. Anyway I really hope it works great for you. Please update in a few months. I would really like to know how it worked. Have a good one.
Wow..this should have been done at the factory.. i did to my stick now, and its a awsome upgrade.
Yep lol. Thank you for the comment. Have fun with your new stick lol.
Great video. I’ll be doing this soon. I will definitely desolder that ground wire on the pcb. That would give you way more room to work.
Got my Nyogel 767a in and did this fix......night and day difference.
I'm really glad I could help. Take it easy and have some fun!
the wire is a pain and easy to re solder. on the other hand it keeps all the parts oriented.
Thank you, my O ring was in a bad shape, did this fix and it works like never before :D
I'm really happy it helped you out. Thanks for commenting.
@@RippleLife I will try to do something similar with my throttle as well. I have some issues with uneven thrust on two engine planes. And when I have all the stuff needed, why not. I have used Molykote 33 Medium grease. I was unable to obtain the one you have used in EU for some reason and the link from your description does not work...
@@BigMasterSabre good luck with it. Thanks for letting me know about the link. I'm about to redo all the links.
Thank you for this great tutorial, i'm working on it. Fly safe !
Your welcome. Ty for the comment, Take care.
i there can you help me i do the fixe same as the one in the video but after i done it it whont show up in Microsoft flight simulator2020
@@ciaranniall558 Hi, Check it in other sims. If it works fine then it is a compatibility issue (even if it worked fine before) and you may just need to reinstall drivers or the software. Also Recalibrate the stick. As long as nothing was damaged with the fix then this will most likely be the case. I have seen this a few times and it was just a compatibility thing. Either way if things don't work, reinstall the drivers and software. Save your profiles. if it doesn't work. check your wiring in the stick for pinches or wrong placement through the pinch point I mention in the video. Also check the black ground wire. Some people have broken it off without realizing. To fix that just a quick re-solder. If other wires or pinched, check them for damage. Repair as necessary. Don't forget to calibrate the stick (this fixes the issue sometimes). Hope this helps. Good luck with it and take care.
I just greased it with lithium grease, no sandpaper. Works a treat
Great!!! Enjoy it and have fun! Thank you for the comment.
Thank you very much for the video, thanks to this I have been able to repair my grip 2 times.... I don't understand how such an expensive product can break so many times. The cables have some kind of friction and eventually end up breaking....
Very welcome glad it helps.
You are welcome, thank you. One question, what are the two small connectors called? I would like to replace all that wiring...
@@Javierogil count the # of pins on the connector and look for a said number of pin connector. Not sure of exact name. Maybe write thrustmaster. They usually respond in a day or two. Good luck.
Thank you for the guide and it worked out very well.
Your very welcome. I'm really glad it helped. If you removed your O-ring; The description has some tips for the removal and prep. So many don't read the description so thought I would just mention it. Thanks again, enjoy and be safe.
Excellent tutorial, thanks.
You are very welcome. Ty
Nice. Can't wait to regrease my Hog.
Lol, Can't tell you how many times I wanted to use that phrase lol. Take it easy.
Thank you for the detailed video!
I planned to do this tutorial soon, and little concern to disassemble the other parts starting from min 5:40.
There be a significant improvement if I only take off the O-ring, cleaning, puts alcohol, and regrease the parts shown until min 3:32?
It is possible but I recommend doing all in one session that way its done. Just be cautious about wire placement. Unplug it before doing work as well. Good luck and take care.
Hey I fixed it. I jot ordered a Virpil base. Also at the time the video was recorded, Warthog was not on top of the hill anymore. Bases from Virpil or VKB are now the way to go. You only buy a warthog for the grip
I love the vkb
Thank you so much! Subbed!
Very welcome
Excellent Video thanks
Nyogel 767A - Dampening grease made for this very purpose. Not cheap, but very nice..
I have tried it and in my opinion I preferred the marine grease. The nyogel isn't viscous enough to perform at a high level for an extended time. Also doesn't feel as nice an kind of feels stock.. That said, there are plenty of persons using nyogel and I guess they seem to like it in some cases. Either way you go it will probably be personal preference and will get the job done. But still prefer the lewmar much more. Thanks for the comment and take care.
Thank you so much 👍
my issue with this stick base is that it uses a ball joint so you can not feel the difference between x and y axis while other joysticks like vkb have a separate spring for each axis and you dont accidentally mix the inputs.
I just finished the fix! Stick feels great but.. The calibration shows the stick sensor acting very erratically now. Moving the stick slowing in one directions causes the calibration crosshair to bounce around the square quickly in all directions. All buttons and hats work fine. Loaded up a flight sim and yes the stick is unflyable. I check and double checked that no wires are being pinched. did I fry my board by chance?
I don't think anything bad happened. If you checked the wires and the magnets and sensors are clear, then it's most likely a hardware conflict. I have had that happen before. I think I had to reinstall the driver or unplug another controller. I honestly don't t remember. Try checking that out. I think the fix may be below in the comments somewhere. If I remember or find it I'll post and I'll update the comments.
great video, thanks
Thank you very much glad you liked it.
hello, do you recommend cleaning it before applying new grease or can it be mixed with the factory grease? Thank you
I Recommend cleaning first as the prior grease can emulsify with the new. Plus.. might as well, it's already disassembled at this point lol.
Really helpful, thx alot ;)
Thank you, and your very welcome.
What happened to your Formosa?
Thank you for making such a detailed video breakdown of the process! I'm looking for grease locally and tried to compare details, but Westmarine is blocking traffic from the EU due to lazy GDPR avoidance rules. Would any Mariner type thick synthetic grease do the job or is the one linked a very specific one?
Thank you for the comment. Its just the grease i prefer. Just make sure the one you get is plastic safe and NGLI 2. If its too thin it will only last a month or so before starting to stick again. Read through some of the comments and you can see what some others are using. I would stay away from silicon its usually too thin or soft. Also if u pull the o-ring whi i prefer. Make sure to slight bevel the edges of the metal plate /ring that the oring is stuck to. And roll a peice of 240 or hight sand paper ant just slightly sand the inside of the 4 holes in the white ring on the pressure plate where the 4 silver poles slid through. Sometimes they are to tight and dont allow smooth movement. Dont sand too much. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Hey ronin, I have a question, I have opened the 2 screws on my brand new warthog throttle for the optional afterburner detent and in the process have dropped both screw rings into the space and I can't seem to them out, I've tried shaking the throttle upside down and eventually they've stopped making any sound inside meaning that they got stuck somewhere, and the throttle works fine, so what's your opinion, is there a risk of something getting damaged in there? should I risk it and open it up (since I literally just got it yesterday)?
Since it's new i'd ask TM support if it would ruin the guarantee. But i would disassemble it.
@@theflyinggasmask Thanks for the reply, I got them out earlier this week :)
Hey i'm going to grease my hotas soon and i have some questions.
Is Lewmar calcium sulfonate grease better then Nyogel 767A ?
Did you test both of this grease ?
Is WD40 SPECIALIST grease good too ? It is calcium sulfonate grease, NLGI 2. (Lewmar cost more then the double of WD40 SPECIALIST grease, because of the import in France).
Hi, I did test nyogel but honestly don't remember if it was that exact formula. I have never tried the wd40 grease so I cannot speak on that. I did try silicone grease as well. And out of the 4 top greases I could find that were plastic safe and would last. The Lewmar was by far the best feeling. If the other grease has the same specs then maybe try it. But really do the research and make sure it's plastic safe formula and try to stick with ngli2. Wish I could help more. Good luck. And have a good one.
Is this something TM finally addressed themselves? I disassembled mine to check and I can't see any over mold seams.
Purchased 2021
I couldn't tell ya sorry. It is good that yours seems to be functioning well. Hopefully more can shed some light on your question. Take care.
Great video sir thank you, much respect. o7
Very glad and ur welcome and Thank you for the comment. Take care.
Amazing video. I tried to re-grease my old warthog whit that guide but can't remove stick from the base... That large gray ring (0.54-0.55 minute on video) just won't move at all like it weld inside. I tried WD-40 Specialist but it won't help. Any suggestion how to unscrew it without damaging threads?
Hi. It sounds like it is seized. Possible corroded a little on the threads. The only thing you can do is try to break it loose without damaging the stick. Firmly tap the large nut/ screw mount with a hard plastic screwdriver handle hard enough to get a good vibration through the nut in hopes of loosening possible corrosion. Then use a large pair of channellocks and lefty loosen that bad boy. Be careful and pay attention to how much pressure and also hold the stick and base firmly while turning the large mounting nut left as your looking down on it. Have someone continue to tap the nut if possible. It should loosen with a little work. It sounds like it was tightened pretty good. Its a strong stick but be careful. Plastic parts lol. Don't use heat. Hope this helps, take care and good.luck. let me know how it goes. Also if you take out the o-ring make sure to bevel the edges of the metal plate as described in comments. Good luck.
You can also use the wooden handle on a hammer or something else with a heavy ish wooden handle or plastic to do the tapping.
As of yesterday I noticed pulling down/left and up/right on my stick has no resistance, however up/left and down/right have the normal tension. Flying dcs my aircraft would slowly nose down when stick is centered. Is my issue stiction or is it something else?
Hi. It actually sounds like the O-ring has slipped out and is folded or something. Stiction is when the stick wants to stay in a specific spot. It kind of sticks. Sounds like you have a different issue. Oring or a spring issue. Maybe even a break in the plastic. But I'm guessing it's the oring. If it is, follow the video and don't forget to sand the edges of the oring plate. Read the description under the video before performing the fix. That's very important. Hope this helped.
Hello good evening. When I make this service at the stick, the FSUIPC in the flightsimulation FSX lost the parameters or programation there. What is here the good solution? I disabled the connection USB before from my computer.. best wishs Harald CH
Hi, sorry to hear that. Unless there was damage from the service I do not believe it would be an issue with the stick. I have had the settings reset in fsx before as well. I had to start making sure I had backups of the stick profiles. I wish I could help more on this issue but there could be a few reasons it lost settings. The stick does not store any information so it is most likely on the pc side. Good luck with it and I really hope you get it set back up the way you like. Take care.
Hey. Skimmed your vid, having a problem you don't address, and I can't find an answer on. I got the F-18 replacement head, and the thumb hat is sticking. It's new enough that if there isn't a simple fix I might send it back, but buttons 15-19, when you press the 'thumb hat' around, stick in the on position.
Is there an easy fix for that?
I believe you will need to replace the switch. Don't think a cleaning will fix that especially since its relatively new. Sorry couldn't be more help. Take care
Hey Ronin quick question, i put the circular base on upside down; the part with the rubber pads for the spring, is that a big deal or can i leave it be?
It shouldnt cause an issue. Ant it would only take about 5 min to flip it when you get a chance. Good luck with it. And ty for the comment /question.
Flipped it. Thank you for answering and for making this video.
Hi Nice video, but you should of said disconnect the joystick from the PC first. I watched your video and because you started off showing the joystick calibration mode ie joystick connected and then went into disassembly I assumed I did not need to disconnect.
I short circuited the pcb in consequence. Now I know. Been neat if you made this clear at beginning
Ouch. Over the years. Your the first to mention or notice. Im surprised i didnt even notice that. I always say don't assume. And i did assume that ownwers would know too unplug i guess, or assumed. Honestly never cought it. Thank you for noticing unfortunately not a good way. Good luck with it and ill put a note in notes for now. And see if i can get a clip fix in it soon.
@@RippleLife Your intention is to assist though and thanks. I am the numpty for assuming dc does not short.
A couple of questions you might be able to help with.
The stick had developed a lot of twist. I.e. there was slack . For something so expensive not nice at all ...and it seems a common fault out of the box looking at forums.
Do you know how to remedy this?
Secondly the reason for the disassembly was that an over enthusiastic child had an overexuberant moment and it seemed a sensor had been damaged.
On disassembly I discovered the magnetic sensor in the gimbal assembly had been sheared off. This seems a simple fix with a spot of glue.
However is there a correct way to align it because of polarity?
And would you how do you do this ?
Many Thanks.
I learnt something about Mr E. Lech Trickery.
Always disconnect!
@@mertonboff Wow.
No offense @mertonboff, but it’s common sense to disconnect anything electrical before disassembling a component.
Interesting. ThrustMaster sells an Upfront Hi-Dollar stick mount but their Quality Control doesn't get rid of the plastic flashing on the parts before assembly. Somewhat disappointing, Wonder if it's produced and assembled in China, too. Good video, however. Thanks.
Thank you for The comment yes I know their quality control doesn't seem to be very good or they just don't notice
Do you still recommend the grease you used in this video?
Yes I do. It I really think it works better than anything I have used.
I had a broken wire in mine. I got it two days ago.
Wow
that snaplock tool u use is it 8" or 6"? :)
I'm not sure. Think the pliers are 6. It dosn,t really matter. Just a cheap pair will work. I will put a link in the discription later today. Hope this helps. Have a good one and be safe.
Does joystick have a Z-axis for rudder control ?
It doesn't have rudder control.
Anyone know where to get a replacement spring and oring? All I can find is extension springs that are 2x or 4x the power/pressure.
You can contact thrustmaster and they usually respond in a few days. They sometimes have the parts. Otherwise you can look for a dead one on ebay or something. Wish I could help more. Have a good one.
@@RippleLife I had a question on that rubber o ring. You mentioned you took yours out. I was wondering how well the stick still performs and feels some then. I'm about to remove mine as it's broken down now. Thanks
@@gsxr1000jt Hi, for the o-ring just follow the instructions in the video. There is an ammendment to the preparation of the oring location and metal ring it is stuck to in the description. So please read that about the oring and metal. When the fix is done and the oring removed it feels very nice and seriously smooth. It does feel slightly lighter in the movement but in a good way. Hope this helps. Have a good one
i try it out but joystick not showing up in Microsoft flight simulator2020
Then next is to dissasemble it again carefully. Check the wiring and ic board for damage. There really isn't anything else that it could be after checking calibration, firmware and software updates Especially if it is only not working in mfs 2020. That is really odd, if it works in other sims or calibration works. If thats the case is would point to compatability which would be an update or some setting. Hope this helps some again.
@@RippleLife ok great thanks for your help
Any idea the replacement size etc. of the 4 first black screws under the aluminium cover with 8 screws? One of mine has been tightened too much at the factory and it's going to get destroyed on the way out.
It should come out fine as long as you use the right size screwdriver and firm pressure. I'm not sure on the size but you can probably find them at an electronics store if there is one in the area. If it's one of the little screws that has six or eight of them little ones then you'll be OK leaving one out. Hope this helps . Take care.
@@RippleLife unfortunately not. It is sitting at a slight angle so ... looking like this may have lacked that equal pressure on insertion. I noticed right away it was at an angle, I tried it, it didn't feel so good.
Anyway it disintegrated. You know that way you apply pressure even though you already tried the adjacent screw and it was fine but as soon as you put that initial pressure on it feels like a sandcastle? Now I have to remove it the hard way and find a replacement.
It is all crappy though. They charge premium for this and that screw aside, I shouldn't be taking my stick apart because the mould for the gimble is 100% Chinesium and should have been replaced, nm retooled. Is this like 30% ABS or something?
I'm hoping to bring this stick up to A+ for Star Citizen, but currently it is a B-.
@@bipedalspecies2086 I agree. For the price this thing should be built better. Good luck with it.
@@RippleLife I wouldn't say they overtightened this, but it looks like I will have to put it under the bench drill to take off the head and get the the rest with grips.
Unbelievable.
@@bipedalspecies2086 Wow.. I've never seen that. Hope it comes out easier than expected. Good luck
hey man, i cannot unscrew on 1:18. the base screw move with the screw. can u help me how to solve this?
Maybe a couple tips. Let the spring push a little to let threads grip if it's striped. If it's too tight then make sure to use a good fitting Phillips tip. If head is striped use small vice grips. Which may need to be used anyway. Grip the screw then pull and turn it out. If all that fails then you may have to use an extractor or drill it our but that's a little more advanced if your not experienced with them tools. Hope this helps. Take care and Have a great day.
@@RippleLife can i have your email? Need to show u some pictures on my problem here. Thanks
@@noraswatinfotainment hi. Sorry no email but if you like you can upload to CZcams and put link in a message/comment. I'm not sure if you can still send private messages on here anymore i cant seem to locate it, but if you want. you can link a private link in that to a private video or pics in video format on your channel. If you find the private message thing let me know please. I may be able to use a backup email.
@@RippleLife ok I will upload the video on my channel and share the link here. Btw, where can I buy the spare parts?
@@noraswatinfotainment oh spare parts are from thrustmaster. Ther customer service is ok. They take a couple days to respond. I was able to reach them on the phone before as well. Other than that broken ones on ebay or offer up.
4 hours in, and i still have sticky x-axis :/ Y-axis was bad too, had to grind waay more material off than i thought.
Hope everything turned out OK. Takr care.
Great video! Unfortunately, I believe, I completely messed up my new Warthog.. Maybe someone can help me out:
I did the cleaning of the parts and sanded the seams and the two bolts. Then I put on some Molykote EM-30L and put the thing back together. But now it feels even worse than before..! There's a high amount of friction, it feels like there's grains in the grease and the stiction is horrible.
Without the stick mounted, the roll axis is quite good, whereas the pitch is pretty pad. If I assemble the whole thing and screw the stick on it, both axis are sticky and got alot of friction.
I already found a post on Reddit where the guy sanded the inside of the swivel ball, but that didn't help either.
Or maybe the grease is the problem? I live in Germany, therefore the well-known Nyogel 767A is not an option..
I am desperate and afraid to have f**ked up such an expensive stick.
Thank you guys in advance! :)
I think you will be fine. But I do suggest disassembling it again. Re clean every part inside and out really good with a 99% alcohol. Make sure the wires were placed back in properly and they aren't damaged. Reassemble with a marine bearing grease with ngli 2 rating most are plastic safe but make sure. New link for grease in description. So look at the make up on the label. Make sure that the wires are placed back in without pinching. Not that this is your issue its just that its the most common on reassembly. Also make sure you sand the inside of the white spacer withe the 4 holes for the main mounting poles. Sand them with a rolled up piece of around 400 grit paper until the plate slides smoothly over the 4 poles without to much friction. This only takes a very little sanding, don't make them too big. Also if you removed the o ring you want to slightly bevel the edge of the metal ring the o ring sat on.. you would do this with a piece a sand paper about 250 300 grit. Just make sure everything is really clean before greasing up. It is very possible its the grease used as well but I cannot honestly say. I do have a new link for my recommendation on the grease in the description. Sorry you had some issues I hope this helps. Take care and be safe.
@@RippleLife Thank you so much for your detailed answer, Sir! Well, after cleaning the parts, regreasing them with the same stuff and having the same heavy sticky problems, I eventually ordered a tube of Nyogel 767A yesterday. As many users state, it seems to be a true game changer.. Got lucky as I found a UK based shop.
I also sanded down a tiny bit of the square inside of the swivel ball as that seems to cause the pitch problems. But due to the ongoing issues, I assume that it is the grease which is not suitable even though there's a few recommendations out there..
Will report as soon as the work is done!
Thank you Sir, have a good one and be safe!
@@ActivePilotHD great. I hope the new one works out. Good luck and have a good one.
did it work
@@boo7948 guess we will never know...
How can it be the best on the market if it's main functionality is flawed?
Lol ...at that point in time it was such a good stick even with its problems. For the price point it still would make it the best choice. At that time... In my opinion. Have a good one.
How about now? If you forget the money factor? Which is the best?
@@caesar5555 To be honest I'm not up to date. The last one I thought was the best is the phat mamba from vipril I think. And there was a rudder system from another company that was bad ass but don't remember it. However The warthog throttle was perfect accept the pinky switch which failed. I did alot of comparison with it and never found a better throttle. And I personally really liked the feel and function. I'm interested in looking around for a new one but just can't afford it at the moment lol.
@@RippleLife I understand. But how you could have loved the feel of it if you had to mod it right away. I got one and it's sticky out of the box.... will need to return
@@caesar5555 well for the stick my sticktion started later. The throttle is what I loved the feel of. Stick was nice too. The mod was easy for me and the feel was good. That's about it . If your looking. Research and lots of it. These things are way to pricy now. Have fun.
This is a $600 joystick!? Wow...You would think they would remove that flashing from the injection molding process a little better for that kind of money.
I agree lol
HELP….. the wire you said don’t pinch, well fuck I pinched it. What parts do I need to order to fix
Hi, no worries it happens to alot. All you need to do is have someone or yourself solder a short extention in between the break or breaks. A good computer repair place can just replace the wire or should be able to fix the issue. If you know how to solder then this should be pretty straight forward. It's just replacing or repairing the damaged wires. I hope this helps. I know it's frustrating to pinch them. I hear it more than u think. Take care
@@RippleLife So do I just solder the pieces together?
@@terrysharpe23 you can as long as the wires aren't too short and they still fit . If they are too short,, you'll want to add a small section of wire or replace the wire or wires. That is the simplest way. Use thin heat shrink so it doesn't take much more space. Good luck with it and hope it's an easy fix for ya.
Thanks. You convinced me not to buy one of these. Being that its the best stick you can buy on the market means everything else below it is utter garbage. For what the warthog costs there should not be any kind of issues let alone the need for the consumer to spend hours fixing what should work out of the box and work well
You are right my friend. There are some full aluminum sticks out there but more expensive. Warthog is best in price range and some to work great out of the box. Best feeling and performing stick and throttle though when working. Take care and good luck.
I got my stick about 2 months ago but I am scared to death to do this. Was anyone else or just me?
Hi, thing is to be very careful and to watch what you are doing. It's actually a simple fix. READ THE DESCRIPTION. IT HAS ITEMS NOT MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO. If you remove the O-ring you'll need to bevel the edges of the plate it was mounted to its in the description. If you read the comments. Another of people were nervous about doing it. But they mostly all pulled through perfectly. With minor exceptions. WATCH YOUR WIRES, AND GROUND WIRE. Well hope others give u a little feedback also. But good luck to ya either way. Have a good one.
I'm terrified to do this
If you decide to go ahead. Just follow step by step. And just make sure to slightly bevel the sharp edges of the metal ring with sandpaper if you remove the oring just enough so it's not sharp edged. Also if the 4 guild poles are really snug in the white ring on that same plate. Roll some paper and and sand the holes just slightly so it's a little smoother. Some of the holes are a little to snug on them poles. Good luck
@@RippleLife well i got through it, but the flimsy connection where where joystick meets i felt like i was getting a connection, so opened again putting wires back snagged yellow at top cant reach it, now i dont know what to do
@@tackleberry8604 I'm not sure what your referring to. If you pinched a wire then you can just solder it back together or back on. And use the proper sized heat shrink to protect it. Just make sure the wires are on the proper side as explained in the video so they do not get pinched. If the problem is something else please explain and a may be able to help.
@@RippleLife the yellow wire at magnet i added wire to that connector for grip i managed to do it without soldering, Also I'm using an extension, I've a lil bit of forward stiction but its like butter for most i can live with it ..... confirmed without extension no stiction, thanks for your video, lesson learned make sure you watch every step in video dont rush 🤫
@@tackleberry8604 glad to hear. thanks for the updates. Enjoy and have fun
If I do this I lose warianty?
Any alteration sanding etc. Should void warranty. But just disassembly and regreasing does not.
@@RippleLife Thank you so much I have it like 2 months so I don't want loose and don't want wait for new or "repaired" so I try regrease it and will see thx
@@B0bik ok. No problem. Good luck.
Such a good grip with cheap plastic gimbal. What a shame.
make sure you know soldering before doing this
Thank you for commenting. It is good to know soldering, But As long as you are careful and don't break a connection there is no need to solder anything. If you do break a connection on that ground wire which does happen on occasion. Practice soldering before reconnecting so you may make a good reconnect. Have a great weekend.
Would you consider completing this as a paid service? I would definitely be interested.
Hi. I have done quite a few of these for the CZcams community. Currently I am working on other projects and I'm not sure when I would get to it. Give me a few days and I'll let you know if I can do it in the next week or so. Need to figure out how to send a private message on youtube now that they changed things lol. I haven't sent one for a while on here lol. Have a great day!
Oh and I have watched quite a bit of your arma stuff in the past. I play Arma 3 sometimes and love it. I'm also a dissabled vet. Army almost 14 years of Infantry and Bradley commander. I love flying sims and flying choppers lol. But unfortunately my neck is so bad now it's very difficult the were my oculus. And can't make the quick head movements so I've moved into strategy now when I play. Anyway. I'll let you know in a couple days on when I can fix your hog if you want to send it. Have a good one.
@@RippleLife thank you for the quick reply, mad respect to you man, just email me at Ranger79productions at Gmail dot Com when you have some time and I'll send it over
Thank you for understanding. Will do. And to you too.
Hey ranger, sorry it's taking so long. I just have quite a bit going on. I haven't forgotten.
So what would happen if I just shot some WD40 on the ball?
Hmmm.. probably feel great for about a day then would most likely get scratchy and worse over time. And not really sure what it would do with the plastic over time. Maybe an experiment but I wouldn't try it. Not unless I win the lotto or something lol. That's my guess though. Oh and ww40 smells stronger than grease and and lol if the grease were left in and sprayed. Then the ww40 would liquify the current grease. Anyway have a good one. Good luck if you try that experiment. But don't...lol
@@RippleLife haha just feeling particularly lazy.
WD40 destroys plastic
The material quality they use to build up this stuff is so ridiculous poor 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ If you open a Virpil joystick is not even comparable.
But of course the price range is different... btw really good maintenance job m8 ;)
I agree same thing with the VKB. All ALUMINIUM
The sell a new magnetic base (no gimbal) so you no longer will have to do all of this.
I'll have to check that out. Thanks. Also winwing controls has some nice bases.
Get a VKB or Virpil joystick base and never look back.
The viprils are really awesome. So hard to get though. And pricey but that aluminum construction I love. Alas its out of my affordable range. For now lol.
on mine the O-Ring fell right out XD
Yep that happens lol. That is what happened originally to mine.
@@RippleLife Now that I finished with the fix, I can say it is way smoother, thanks!
Your very welcome and very glad it helped. Enjoy!
Hi Ripple, I was wondering if your still around as Ive bought a wharthog about 2 months ago and when I push the stick up and hold it there n then move it again I get stiction. Now ive sourced the best grease along with the sandpaper and im about to take the jump n follow the video. Theres parts of the video I cant clearly see so im wondering if youd help me through the process. if it all goes tits up ill be buying a vkb base but im hoping I can get this working half decent
Sure just ask me what you have questions on. Read the description first. It has info on the what i call pressure plate. The metal ring that the oring sits on.
@@RippleLife Hi Ripple, thanks so much, ive had to order some alcohol and pincers/knife so I wont be starting it until Friday I doubt but the grease ive got is nyogel 767a, I read this is the gold standard for this operation, am I wrong? Is this stuff suitable? Thanks
@@RippleLife oh n one other thing, do you think this is a fix thrustmaster would actually do under warranty?
Im not sure on the warranty. I also have not used that grease you have. I prefer the one i have listed as i have tested it over the past 5 or so years. But it is possible its a great grease. If its too thin it will only last a few weeks before stiction comes back. Some times longer. Also i have found a better performance without the oring but that metal plates edges need to be sanded for wear protection. Also the 4 holes that the silver mounting rods slide through on that same plate need a tiny bit of sanding to help the plate move smoother. Multiple sticks have had too much friction on them poles. So just roll a peice of like 400 or 600 sandpaper and lightly sand till they are smoothly sliding. Dont sand too much. Hope this helps. Good luck and dont rush. Its actually really easy just carefully proceed.
@@RippleLife Well I contacted Thrustmaster and they ignored me completely about wanting it regreased n linked to your video and instead said they had contacted one of there departments and will send out a replacement oring for me which shud be here in 7 days. So what im planning on doing is regreasing, leaving the Oring as is n then replacing it when I receive the new one, I should give it a go mayb now or tomoro
Answer: buy Virpil Base.
Ty for the comment. I agree lol. But some like me cant afford to buy a vipril or vkb. So until then. Gotta do what you can do to make it work lol. Have a good one.
@@RippleLife I've heard Nyogel 767a is the bees knees lube for the warthog base. The design is unfortunately prone to stiction
@@jerichosainte i have not tried that grease.. maybe give it a try on next rebuild. I am happy with the grease in the discrition though. Thank you for the info.
It is absolutely disgusting that people who have spent such huge money on these sticks are having to take them completely apart, buy and use three grades of sandpaper to sand down the shitty moulding welds and then regrease the whole thing. We should have called Thrustmaster out at the time and ridiculed the sloppy manufacturing. They should be embarrassed to have sold these in the crap condition they did.
They went for cheap to save the money. Sacrificing quality. Even though consumers would have paid more to have the better gimbal.
@@RippleLife Too true. I know I'm at least four years late but thanks for the reply after so long !🙂 And great video also thanks.
"Best Warthog Stiction Fix":
Sell the shitty TM base or throw it in the trash.
Buy Virpil warbrd base.
Screw the TM grip on it.
I bought a VKB Black Mamba joystick base for the same reason.
maybe if they restock their shit looks like they been out of stock for a long long time looks great quality thats for shure
"The best joystick in the market" *cough* VKB, *cough* Virpil, *cough* *cough* Winwing
Lol I agre vipril vkb etc are better sticks. But what I actually said I believe is best stick on the market in its price range. At least I believe I said that lol. But you would have to agree that what the full warthog set offers in its price range you can't beat for the feel and performance. It can be a great set. But I do wish I could afford and get one or more of the ones you listed. Thanks for the comment. Have a great day.
Best grip Worst base. Wierd combo :\
Yep lol
what a pain in the pelvis to "fix" a dysfunctional 500 bugs joystick. don't buy this piece of ....
I gave up, I don't have the right tools for this so even with a screw driver it was too difficult for me to remove the gimbal plugs without ripping the cords, they were just way too stuck in there.
Sorry to hear. The right tools can make a big difference. Maybe another day. Good luck and take care.