Chinese Diesel Heater Fuel Pump Angle - The Best Angle For Your Pumps
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- čas přidán 25. 10. 2022
- Chinese Diesel Heater Fuel Pump Angle - The Best Angle For Your Pumps
Hi everybody, as it is that time of year again we are back with another diesel heater video and this week we have covered the best angle for your fuel pump and try to talk you through why it is the best.
The wrong angle can ruin your pump in no time at all so check out the video about to find out how you should be mounting the pumps for your Chinese diesel heaters!
If you like the video please hit the like button and comment below, if you like our style please click subscribe for lots more diesel heater and van life content coming very soon
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so, what's the reason manufacturers recommend 30 to 45 degrees and not 90? I'm thinking about mounting mine at 90 degrees but then i think that these engineers/manufacturers set that angle recommendation for a reason?
Mount it strait up, strait down or at a 45... it doesn't matter. People like to make videos about this because it gets clicks, but these pumps aren't nearly as particular as people make them out to be. I have run mine flat, and with all sorts of nasty "fuels" and have had the same pump for over a year.
They use the same pump on units that run on gasoline, so the claims about wearing out due to lubricity are also nonsense.
Webasto uses a pump with a internal filter so their recommendation is to mount at 45 degrees so the possible particles can fall to the bottom "corner" of the pump. Chinese manufacturers use a different pump without the internal filter and since the whole thing is just a copy of the Webasto design they even copied the Webasto manual.....
@@loweredexpectations4927gasoline Is a lubricant also
Exactly!!! It worked I was getting crazy :)
I agree
Thanks for your great videos on these heaters, been very informative for me today installing one on a small out building. My fuel tank is installed above the heater (not directly, just off to the side on a wall), so just want to make sure that i still need to have the outlet pointing upwards and then the fuel line curving back down towards the heater, even tho the flow of fuel is downhill. So i can't just have the outlet pointing down, as the pump is also beneath the outlet of the fuel tank. Thanks again
Thanks mate, glad you like them. yeah the pump end needs to point up so the bubbles can escape the pump :) If it was pointing down all the cavitation bubbles would get stuck and the pump will seize in no time
gotcha, thanks for the quick response man. Will get the install finished off tomorrow (am in new zealand....) cheers!
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide
Great effort into making this video, great graphics and the end conclusion is right in a round about way... but I believe the information in the video is largely incorrect.
For anyone who thinks that the inside of these diesel pumps could EVER run dry because of some bubbles !?! You need to give your head a shake...
I feel like this is one of those ideas that got started on the internet and now everyone just repeats it without actually thinking, because any level of thought would tell you that this is impossible. The inside of a piston pump that has had diesel in it would take years of running with no fuel supply to "run dry" and cause wear. The residual diesel oil would hang out and lubricate the piston... not to mention that there are ZERO side loads on these pistons other than gravity.
The idea that cavitation would cause bubbles that would then cause the pump to run dry is overlooking what seems to be very obvious, to me... Cavitation destroys things. Cavitation will 100% destroy your pump. There's no need for further explanation.
To avoid cavitation, make sure that the pump sits below the bottom of the fuel tank when possible. If the pump is higher than than tank you cause the pump to pull fuel to the pump, and this causes a low pressure, causing cavitation. If you gravity feed fuel to the pump, you massively decrease the likelihood of cavitation in the pump.
So, 90 will allow any trapped air to escape the pump, and that is good, but where you place your pump is more important... Below the tank good, above the tank bad.
Side note. An interesting experiment. Take a fuel pump that has been used, unhook the inlet line and cycle it for 5 minutes to pump the fuel out. Place it on it's side with a fuel line looped from the inlet to outlet. Set it at 2hz for a full year of non stop running, then carefully cut the pump apart and see if you can fin ANY dry spot inside that pump... I suspect not.
First of all great video for van life uk! But i was also considered about the info in the video so thanks for the input with your comment. Nevertheless i have installed the pump 1.5m above the tank and yes it does produce bubbles... so i will try to move below the tank and see how it goes... But the question is the pumps optimal position vertical aka 90 degrees?
@@varnasfix If you run the pump completely vertical, with the outlet at the top and inlet at the bottom, that will trap the least amount of bubbles. I believe anything between 50º and 90º should be fine.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Thank you!
So, air bubbles create a 'spongy' effect and interfere with the pressure from supply (pump) - I get it all the time when I bleed my brakes😂 Had it in our heater, which sounded like a T-Rex howling from Jurassic park!
@@honestg While air has the potential to be spongy, it can't be spongy unless there is a resistance acting against it. The master cylinder, in this case, is your pump and the slave cylinder, acting on the pads and rotor, is your resistance. You get the sponge effect because the air is compressing... With your heater there is no slave cylinder equivalent. The fuel simply drools in onto the glow plug mesh. No nozzle, no orifice, no reduction, no restriction. In fact, where the fuel comes in from the fuel pipe actually increases in size.
Altho the pump can produce some pressure, it is impossible for the system to be pressurized without a restriction. The sound, and erratic burn that you hear in the heater is a result in the air bubbles causing a slight pause or lull in the burn, followed by a the burn starting or increasing in intensity when more fuel ignites.
If you have your pump several feet below your heater, it is possible that the mass if the fuel could cause the air to be compressed. In this case the issue would not so much be the air in the system as the location of your pump and or tank. Either way, air bubbles are not great because it takes place of the fuel and too much of it can cause erratic operation or a flameout.
Axxx-ESE? 😂
I can't believe how much problems with such a trivial component as fuel pump, readily used in millions of vehicles around the world
Does it matter which way you have the pump round?
Yeah the side with the electrical connection on it should be the side in the air as it is the output.
Ruin 3 pumps and 90° with inlet on top and outlet pointing down.
Yeah the outlet needs to be at the top or the air bubbles will go the wrong way
I tried all angles , makes no difference. Preference is upright.
One in my flat right now is horizontal.