So apparently its 2020 and the 16 yr old me still doesnt know how to sew any shi lol. But hey i love my parents and dont want them to buy me a new school bag because its still in good use. I actually fixed my bag and this helped alot. Thank you!!💖💖
Thanks Jason! I would like to pick up a used industrial sewing machine for making backpacks, bags and other clothing projects. Do u have a recommendation for a good machine or did u make other videos about that - that I missed?
Thanks, Jeff! I haven't made any specific recommendations yet, and my personal experience is limited to my semi-quasi-sorta industrial Singer 20-33 ("Commercial" is probably a better term for that machine, but most people don't use that term.) In the used industrial machine market in my area, I've seen plenty of older Singers, Brothers, Jukis, and Pfaffs, as well as some newer Chinese knock-offs that are probably fine. I have a strong preference for older machines, but something new enough to have reverse is nice, although not strictly necessary. Keep in mind that "industrial" embodies a wide range of machines, from single needle non-walking foot, needle feed, walking foot, compound feed, double-needle, etc. Just because it's "industrial" don't assume it's right for you. I would recommend you check out the channel of "thesergeant" on CZcams - he has a wealth of knowledge on older machines, home and industrial, and some great videos on a number of machines. I'd expect to pay a minimum of $300 for a functional older machine with no reverse, and $500 to upwards of $1000 for an industrial with reverse (based on Craigslist prices in my area). Keep in mind that you don't necessarily NEED an industrial, at least not to start with. I have home machines ranging from $12 to $300, and I've used them all to make some gear with 1000D Cordura, nylon webbing, etc. So if you haven't tried sewing stuff before, don't feel you have to start with an industrial. With home machines, I'd stick to early 1960s and prior, and go with Singer, Pfaff or other well-known brands (or if you find an off-brand, try to find out if it shares parts with a more common one). Sorry for the long answer, I hope it helps, and let me know what you end up with and what you make with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I think you’re the only video that I’ve came across that talked about the edge the fabric but, I still don’t exactly understand what supposed to be done with it. I have some seat covers for my car that I want to cut for adjustments but, I don’t understand if the edge of the fabric where I’m going to cut will become undone, unless something is done to them. Thanks for the video though
Hi, So, some fabrics have a tendency to fray more than others. For fabrics that will fray or unravel, it is important to trap the "raw edge," either by folding it over or with edge binding. With some materials, cutting with a hot knife or sealing the edges by singeing them with a flame can prevent unraveling. In upholstery work, this is often not necessary as the fabrics used often do not fray badly (vinyl and leather, for example). If you're using a fabric and you aren't sure, you can take a scrap piece and rub the edge vigorously and see if the threads that make up the fabric become loose and unravel from each other. If you have any doubt, protecting the edges by folding or binding them will help them last longer either way, but they may add unnecessary bulk to the seam (plus extra work to do it if not needed). I hope that helps!
Hi, It really depends on where and how much fraying there is. Ideally, the raw edges would be concealed either by folding or binding when the bag was manufactured. Going back in to do that after the bag is completed usually means significant disassembly, but it really depends on the way the bag is constructed and where the fraying is occurring. You are welcome to email me at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces) if you want to send pictures of the damage, I might be able to give more specific advice.
What thread and needle combination depends more on the fabric your pack is made from than the fact that it is a backpack. The general wisdom is that you choose the right thread for the fabric, and the right needle for the thread. I most often use size V69 (aka T70) bonded nylon thread in a needle from about size 90 (aka 14) to 110 (aka 18). V69 is an industrial thread size that you are unlikely to find at your local fabric store, but it commonly available online (I buy from The Thread Exchange). Also, check to make sure the machine sews well on just some test scraps of fabric. If the timing is off, for instance, the needle could impact on the hook and break a needle, regardless of what is being sewn. I hope that helps, good luck!
Hi, I appreciate your comment. This has been mentioned and addressed many times before, and it is a topic I have mixed feelings about. If you are interested, you might want to check out my video "The Manliest Sewing Project" for more on my current thoughts on the matter. In the event you are not inclined to watch that video, let me sum up: Sewing has (especially in the US) for decades been widely considered a hobby for girls and women. While many men are employed as tailors, general sewing as a hobby was considered a feminine pastime. That attitude seems to have changed a lot recently (maybe videos like mine encouraging guys to sew for fun have helped?), but even today I still catch a raised eyebrow now and then when the subject comes up. I want to ask you to consider something; if this were a welding video called "welding for girls," would you have made the same comment? There are many videos and other programs intended to encourage girls to weld, do woodworking, enter into scientific fields of study, etc. None of this is because specific genitalia are required; it is because girls tend to be underrepresented in those hobbies/fields, and the intent is to welcome them into those areas. I don't use "Sewing For Guys" much (if at all) anymore, but the idea is to make it easy for guys (who are underrepresented in the hobby of sewing) to find ideas, projects and/or information that applies to what they want to sew, which is often different from what is available in sewing books, magazines, or videos that are targeted (if not in name) primarily at a female audience. (Last time I was in a bookstore, sewing magazines were in a section of the magazine rack labeled "women's interest.") The saying goes that you can't judge a book by its cover; however, book covers help us to identify whether the book we hold in our hands is one we are interested in, or something completely different. The information on a book cover helps us distinguish things we are interested in from things we are not, and sometimes they might inspire us to take interest in something we were not seeking. In that way, book covers are helpful, and so can be labels. It isn't perfect, but labeling some of my videos "Sewing For Guys" has inspired a number of people (many who happen to be NOT guys) to learn to sew, sew different things, etc., and they may not have found my videos otherwise. I've racked my brain for almost ten years for a better way to help attract that audience, I still haven't thought of one. I hope that helps you to better understand where I am coming from.
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for this thoughtful reply. It is good that this is a debate at least. Maybe I reacted, because I had these feelings myself about sewing and this title brought them up. It made me a pussy? Is it really attractive for if you put "positive discrimination" into the title? So, yes, you are right, this is very deep in our thinking still, but I would rather see less men sewing and less girls welding than sexism. Of we remove the root cause, no need to mend "the problem" anymore. Esp. not for us oh poor white men.
So apparently its 2020 and the 16 yr old me still doesnt know how to sew any shi lol. But hey i love my parents and dont want them to buy me a new school bag because its still in good use. I actually fixed my bag and this helped alot. Thank you!!💖💖
Had a good bag. Everything is still fine. No holes tears or patches. Only a busted zipper.
Good informational video, thanks!
Thank YOU for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jason! I would like to pick up a used industrial sewing machine for making backpacks, bags and other clothing projects. Do u have a recommendation for a good machine or did u make other videos about that - that I missed?
Thanks, Jeff! I haven't made any specific recommendations yet, and my personal experience is limited to my semi-quasi-sorta industrial Singer 20-33 ("Commercial" is probably a better term for that machine, but most people don't use that term.) In the used industrial machine market in my area, I've seen plenty of older Singers, Brothers, Jukis, and Pfaffs, as well as some newer Chinese knock-offs that are probably fine. I have a strong preference for older machines, but something new enough to have reverse is nice, although not strictly necessary.
Keep in mind that "industrial" embodies a wide range of machines, from single needle non-walking foot, needle feed, walking foot, compound feed, double-needle, etc. Just because it's "industrial" don't assume it's right for you.
I would recommend you check out the channel of "thesergeant" on CZcams - he has a wealth of knowledge on older machines, home and industrial, and some great videos on a number of machines.
I'd expect to pay a minimum of $300 for a functional older machine with no reverse, and $500 to upwards of $1000 for an industrial with reverse (based on Craigslist prices in my area). Keep in mind that you don't necessarily NEED an industrial, at least not to start with. I have home machines ranging from $12 to $300, and I've used them all to make some gear with 1000D Cordura, nylon webbing, etc. So if you haven't tried sewing stuff before, don't feel you have to start with an industrial. With home machines, I'd stick to early 1960s and prior, and go with Singer, Pfaff or other well-known brands (or if you find an off-brand, try to find out if it shares parts with a more common one).
Sorry for the long answer, I hope it helps, and let me know what you end up with and what you make with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Love all of your videos, Jason. But I missed the kitties in this one!
I think you’re the only video that I’ve came across that talked about the edge the fabric but, I still don’t exactly understand what supposed to be done with it. I have some seat covers for my car that I want to cut for adjustments but, I don’t understand if the edge of the fabric where I’m going to cut will become undone, unless something is done to them.
Thanks for the video though
Hi,
So, some fabrics have a tendency to fray more than others. For fabrics that will fray or unravel, it is important to trap the "raw edge," either by folding it over or with edge binding. With some materials, cutting with a hot knife or sealing the edges by singeing them with a flame can prevent unraveling.
In upholstery work, this is often not necessary as the fabrics used often do not fray badly (vinyl and leather, for example). If you're using a fabric and you aren't sure, you can take a scrap piece and rub the edge vigorously and see if the threads that make up the fabric become loose and unravel from each other. If you have any doubt, protecting the edges by folding or binding them will help them last longer either way, but they may add unnecessary bulk to the seam (plus extra work to do it if not needed).
I hope that helps!
thejasonofalltrades thank you, I’ll take note of this
I bought my son's school bag second hand, the edges are frayed, any tips to repair?
Hi,
It really depends on where and how much fraying there is. Ideally, the raw edges would be concealed either by folding or binding when the bag was manufactured. Going back in to do that after the bag is completed usually means significant disassembly, but it really depends on the way the bag is constructed and where the fraying is occurring.
You are welcome to email me at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces) if you want to send pictures of the damage, I might be able to give more specific advice.
I bought a sewing machine recently but when I tried to sew a tear the needle broke. Do I need a specific needle for a backpack?
What thread and needle combination depends more on the fabric your pack is made from than the fact that it is a backpack. The general wisdom is that you choose the right thread for the fabric, and the right needle for the thread.
I most often use size V69 (aka T70) bonded nylon thread in a needle from about size 90 (aka 14) to 110 (aka 18). V69 is an industrial thread size that you are unlikely to find at your local fabric store, but it commonly available online (I buy from The Thread Exchange).
Also, check to make sure the machine sews well on just some test scraps of fabric. If the timing is off, for instance, the needle could impact on the hook and break a needle, regardless of what is being sewn.
I hope that helps, good luck!
I just don't like the "for guys" name at all. Does it require a specific reproductive organ to fix a bag, or what?
Hi,
I appreciate your comment. This has been mentioned and addressed many times before, and it is a topic I have mixed feelings about. If you are interested, you might want to check out my video "The Manliest Sewing Project" for more on my current thoughts on the matter.
In the event you are not inclined to watch that video, let me sum up:
Sewing has (especially in the US) for decades been widely considered a hobby for girls and women. While many men are employed as tailors, general sewing as a hobby was considered a feminine pastime. That attitude seems to have changed a lot recently (maybe videos like mine encouraging guys to sew for fun have helped?), but even today I still catch a raised eyebrow now and then when the subject comes up.
I want to ask you to consider something; if this were a welding video called "welding for girls," would you have made the same comment? There are many videos and other programs intended to encourage girls to weld, do woodworking, enter into scientific fields of study, etc. None of this is because specific genitalia are required; it is because girls tend to be underrepresented in those hobbies/fields, and the intent is to welcome them into those areas.
I don't use "Sewing For Guys" much (if at all) anymore, but the idea is to make it easy for guys (who are underrepresented in the hobby of sewing) to find ideas, projects and/or information that applies to what they want to sew, which is often different from what is available in sewing books, magazines, or videos that are targeted (if not in name) primarily at a female audience. (Last time I was in a bookstore, sewing magazines were in a section of the magazine rack labeled "women's interest.")
The saying goes that you can't judge a book by its cover; however, book covers help us to identify whether the book we hold in our hands is one we are interested in, or something completely different. The information on a book cover helps us distinguish things we are interested in from things we are not, and sometimes they might inspire us to take interest in something we were not seeking. In that way, book covers are helpful, and so can be labels. It isn't perfect, but labeling some of my videos "Sewing For Guys" has inspired a number of people (many who happen to be NOT guys) to learn to sew, sew different things, etc., and they may not have found my videos otherwise. I've racked my brain for almost ten years for a better way to help attract that audience, I still haven't thought of one.
I hope that helps you to better understand where I am coming from.
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for this thoughtful reply. It is good that this is a debate at least. Maybe I reacted, because I had these feelings myself about sewing and this title brought them up. It made me a pussy? Is it really attractive for if you put "positive discrimination" into the title?
So, yes, you are right, this is very deep in our thinking still, but I would rather see less men sewing and less girls welding than sexism. Of we remove the root cause, no need to mend "the problem" anymore. Esp. not for us oh poor white men.