This is the best mold construction breakdown that I have to say on CZcams. It’s super thorough and his explanations is easy to understand. Love your channel. Keep it up !
This series was really clarifying for how to do medium size statues. I had no idea before how the supportive shell was made or how the placement of seams was decided. Also the multiple coats of latex, and making sure those coats aren't globby, was good to know. I've only previously known about pouring single thick latex coats over rather small objects, totally different process.
Thanks for watching and I am glad these were helpful for you. It has been a while since I have been making statues, but I am hoping to make some new ones the upcoming holiday season for Christmas gifts.
Great 3 part series on how to make molds, you have a new subscriber. I started out few years ago and all I do now is restoration work on old statues and paint and detail new ones. I will be buying and making some of my own molds in the future. Again great video very informative and I will be using it to make some of my own molds.
Thanks Chris, and I appreciate it. I've dabbled in some finishing and have plans to do some videos down the road on it. I'm playing around with how to get increase moss to grow on statues, as it has a cool look. More soon on the other finishes...thanks for the sub!
Really enjoyed ur 3 part video collection; I'm currently undertaking a really complex Gargoyle mold myself`, so it was great to get to view your demolding process ahead of time. ps, fantastic tip re the painters tape!
I have a couple suggestions. Mix your own concrete, not bag mixes. Using cement, sand and small aggregate you can create stronger better concrete at a fraction of the cost of pre-bagged stuff. If you’re really into it use a plasticizer to make your concrete more liquid without compromising strength. After you are done your first pour mark the spots where concrete slurry seeped into the seam. Drill a hole through the fully assembled mold at those marks into the seam closer to the product and put a nut & bolt there to add pressure to that part of the seam. This should reduce the leakage making cleanup easier and a better looking product. Time is money after all.
Thanks for sharing some insightful tips, and I will experiment with this. I don't have a lot of space for storage of a trailer load of gravel and another of sand, so that is part of why I buy a few bags at time, generally, but I am chewing on this as I love saving money. I do keep a bucket of Portland cement that I am starting to supplement my bags with, but so far, I have not noticed a difference. But, what you say is similar to a few others I have heard from. As for the seams and all, you nailed it on the advice. My hen/chicken statue in my video is OK, but I do regret the seam placement as it is not visually the best. Thanks for sharing and giving some wisdom!!
@@backyardadventureswithandy you can go to your local landscape supply and but the appropriate sand and gravel by the bucket. I usually have about 5, 5 gallon buckets of each in my shop. Not as cheap as a truck load but still better.
I am so happy to find you. You have the skills in mold making that I would love to learn. Too bad that we are not related so I can come to your shop to learn everything you know about garden art. I have done a few sculptures that I would like to replicate but I am very intimidated about the process. I will be watching your mold videos again and again until I build some confidence about the process. Thank you Mr.Wright.
I am with you in that this is a fascinating project to learn, with some challenges! I have several new statues challenges I am hoping to tackle this next year, too! Enjoy and thanks for the support.
So encouraging...thanks! I enjoyed making that 3 part series and I am gearing up to start some new statues soon. The Spring gardening season is coming, and the statues are a bonus to the yard and patio.
I loved this video! I did have a couple of questions that I wanted to ask if that’s alright: 1. How do you clean the latex mold so that you can reuse them again? 2. Do you prime the latex molds again with the mold release every time you make another statue? 3. Why don’t we let the concrete sit longer than 48 hours? Would that relieve some of the possibility of things breaking off? Anyways, awesome series of videos, and I really want to give it go! Im sorry if you answered those questions in the video, maybe I’m a bad listener haha! Thanks for you help!
95% of my cleaning is just water and sometimes my hand rubbing any residue off. I can't remember the last time I had to use a mild detergent and warm water, but that is what I would use if needed. I basically rinse them each time and they are good to go again. As for mold release (priming), YES, every time a lite spray...it will also help with the longevity of the mold. As for letting the fresh concrete and sitting. Honestly, I am overly eager, so that is my #1 problem. However, regarding sitting longer, here is what I have experienced: In the heat of summer when it is warm (and in the shade the whole time), I prefer to go 1 day or 2 at the most. In cold seasons, I go 2-3 days and try to keep the statues in the shed to cure (60 degrees). I have heard that keeping them in the mold for a week or long amount of time is bad for the latex rubber.
Awesome series of video's Andy. I am just getting into making these and have only just put the first coat of rubber on 6 pieces I am going to make moulds of. I live in Australia and I have found that the latex rubber that I can source locally for a half decent price contains ammonia. So obviously I have to wear a filter mask. But your tips and tricks are very concise. I have searched CZcams for instructional videos about this process and most are from professionals in this field who tend to gloss over some details or just leave some steps completely out, where as you go to great pains to show each step. I have viewed this series more times than I can remember and I will still keep going back to it when I need to confirm things. Thank you so much.
Great series. Of course, you should be wearing a mask when mixing concrete, but you did have a long handle on the mixer, so, not as bad as the way I would do it (lol). (Do as I say, not as I do so to speak).
Dude yu got a huge backyard , you should build a pond and big ol' cement dragon fountain statue , I'll LOVE to see you build a huge dragon statue spewing freshwater
@@backyardadventureswithandy Could I have some information the rubber product You use What is it? Or comparable products?.. I'm in new zealand not everything's named the same
Hi! I just stumbled onto your videos. You my dear are so great at showing the step by step way of doing the mold making to final product! What a great talent you have! Rubber mold man was always who I watched in the past. I've emailed him with questions but he doesn't reply back. (He turned his comments off as well) 🙄 I am just now starting to do some crafts with concrete. I'm using some left over rockite we had from 9 yrs ago when we filled in cracks on our basement floor. I got an insane idea a few weeks ago when I saw it down there. I thought, ya know, this is just sitting down here in this 25lb box that barely had any used out of it. So I brought it up here & grabbed some silicone molds I have for making resin crafts, yes I do that too. I LOVE to craft! Anyway I mixed some up into a pancake batter/milkshake thickness & poured. I left them sit overnight since there were deep molds. I know rockite sets up in 15 mins, but I wanted to be sure. So my question is, since they cured fine, can I do a basic base coat with the watered down acrylic latex exterior paint & then once fully dry, do the dry brush effect to make the detail pop? I read rockite is stronger than concrete, but not sure how strong they are for this type of stuff. I have 2 latex molds I bought, biggest is a 16 in lion, only mold, no fiberglass backing, & a wolf head plaque, also no backing just mold. Sorry for the long winded comment/question. Just wanted you to know what I'm doing & if it will survive inside or on a covered porch if I spray a seal coat of enamel gloss over it. Keep up the great videos, you truly are awesome!
Thanks for the encouragement and while I don't know what rockite will do and hold up, I'd suspect you will have little problems if it is a cement based product. And, the finish you are talking about should work great, too. The seal is extra and so I'd think you would be just fine for decades...
@@backyardadventureswithandy Rockite is an anchoring cement for bolts, screws etc. Thank you so much for getting back to me, I will ve filing the pieces today & then doing the base coat tonight or tomorrow. You are very welcome on the encouragement, you deserve it! I'm a new subscriber to your channel so I look forward to seeing more videos! Have a great afternoon.
@backyardadventureswithandy I have a concrete statue that is pretty beat up. If I send it to you, could you possibly give me an idea of what it looked like originally
Heather, I went to the Oregon Coast on vacation one year, and after seeing some cool statues, I spent the rest of the trip wondering if I could make them. Sure enough, the first few were a hit with gifts and for craft-sales. It's unique, but a great way to bless friends and cover the cost (or more) with some selling...
Hello Carol and thanks for the encouragement! At this point, I can't make the molds in an economical way to sell them and cover my time. Which one were you interested in?
Love the video, I have been making concrete flower pots and birdbaths for over 40 years but have always used aluminum molds. I just bought some latex rubber molds.. My question is how long do you leave them in the mold and do you pour them outside or inside?
Some of this depends on the warmth of the weather. I typically leave them for 48 hours. In the winter, I have done a little more time. If they cure/dry too long, they are harder to work with and I think it wears on the mold faster. If it is too short, breakable pieces are more likely to break off during de-molding. I also reinforce with wire/metal on things like legs. Regarding inside or outside, I do everything possible to keep it out of direct sunlight. I usually pour and store these under the eaves on the north side of my house, or in my shed. Sunlight and latex molds are not good for each other!!
I estimate what I think I need and make a bit more. Often I might need a little more and I'll mix some extra. When I make the concrete, I make a bag or partial bag and only a couple statues. And, I usually have a couple dried chunks of concrete nearby in case I need some filler. If I make too much, I pour the remainder on the ground and after it dries, I use it as filler for a future statue. Concrete is cheap, overall, so making a little extra is only a dollar or so of waste. As far as the water and mix ratio, I do it by sight to make it a sludgy slop rather than a really soupy mix. If it is too soupy, I pour a little more from my extra bag to thicken it.
I actually use the basic concrete mix at any Home Depot or Lowe's. It works great and I tried a couple other ones in the past and noticed no benefit. If there are fragile parts like ears or feet, sometimes I will put metal reinforcement like wire to help give strength while the concrete is hardening.
Can you do a tutorial on how to make the model? By this I mean say you wanted to make a fox, bear. Moose etc. How do you do that? I understand the process of making the mold. I dont understand how to make the model FOR the mold.
I may be able to at some point. You might search up sculpting videos to watch how people sculpt statues. It is a whole other skill set and impressive art!
I would think the fiberglass will work on anything, and if you are talking about the latex rubber, it might have an initial problem with a wet thing like non-dry clay. it needs to dry full for each coat.
Take your bucket outside and with the hose just rinse it out. I typically have one bucket I use for concrete and never really wash it out. Sometimes I've got left over sand on the bottom with water I leave in it. If you have concrete leftover, then I would pour it on the ground in a spot where it can harden up and then I use it as filler for one of my larger statues later or just throw it away.
Nature can’t be wonderful if we treated fair. I picked up a statue that 50 inches high and it’s widest point is 16 inches wide the arms it’s a statue of mother Earth and for years I’ve been looking for a way to replicate this statue your video gives me promise I’m gonna try this method out it seems promising if you have any suggestions drop me a line. I picked this statue up at the flea market years ago , i’ve been looking for a method to re-create this statue for years this is the first time that I come across something I think it’s possible for that statue to be re-create it is off plaster of Paris out of concrete I can make it into a fountain it would be beautiful I know. Thank you for your video.The concrete mix is very important also.
If the first statue is large, I would encourage you to start on something smaller to learn how the process works. But, for me, I learned how to do this on CZcams years ago, along with through experience along the way. It's a great way to save and reproduce a statue for both you and for others. And, I just use the bags of concrete mix from my local hardware store...nothing fancy, and it works great! Good luck.
These were excellent videos and tutorials!! One thing I feel I'm missing is... once you de-mould, is there a way to clean the rubber to re-use the moulds? I imagine if you just leave the concrete bits, the next time you use it it won't look as nice. Am I right about that?
The molds usually are pretty clean, but I periodically rinse with water and let them air dry prior to reusing. I try to get it clean of concrete before reusing. Make sense?
I suspect there are a variety of other materials besides concrete, but concrete is so easy and strong. Whatever it is, it needs to be friendly to latex rubber. Good luck!
I am wanting to try my hand at making some smaller statues. Can you recommend a great concrete that will give a smoother appearance in a small mold? Thanks
I honestly recommend the basic mix that the hardware store sells for general use. It works great for me. The smoothness comes from vibrating or tapping the mix in the mild so the air bubble settle. Perhaps they have a fancier one with special fibers for the concrete mix, but this is what works well for me!
Most of the time, I just use the premix bags at the local Home Depot or Lowes. I have had continual success with just the normal bags without special binders or ingredients. And, the mix is usually a bit thicker than soup, but t total sludge. Thicker gets you more bubbles, I think.
Hi. I came across your video and have to say it's the best how to on mold making for concrete statues. I have a statue I am working on restoring a little girl statue that was at my grandmothers house for probably 45 yrs. My hope is to restore the statue and make copies of it for all of her grandchildren. When I bought her house, the "little girl" (as we call her)statue came with it. Ok now the question... she's a fountain. I can't find any help on how to make the mold with the water way from the bottom of the statue to the water jug where the water comes out. Is this something that can be explained in a reply? I really loved your 3 part video. A subscriber and looking forward to watching your others. Thank you- Lisa
So I have not done a piece with a water feature, but I have looked into this and one would basically run a tube through the statue where the water can connect, and then have the outflow at the spot that makes sense. The tube is simply a placeholder to get the water through, such, as a drip system
Thank you so much for your quick reply! So after I make the mold, put a plastic tube from the opening where the concrete would be pores thru the inside of the mold to where the water will exit? I guess that does make sense! I knew you would know! I just couldn't picture it. Thanks you!
You can leave it longer, but I have run into two concerns. First, the hardened concrete can damage my mold on some areas that are excess, such as around the areas I poured the concrete in. These little areas break off easy, such as seams. I'm not sure how to explain this, but there are usually little tabs or seams of concrete or spilled parts. As I demold it, the harden concrete is harder to clean up or shave off. Second, it seems to affect the latex (slightly) if it dries in there over a longer time. It might be subtle, but I wonder if it takes life away from the mold. With that said, I have left concrete in a few for longer times because of fragile parts.
Got a question, how would you go about doing this for a plant pot. Like the more unique kind, like the raccoon you did here but it’s got a hole in the middle to be used as a plant. But the majority is still solid. It’s just a small hole, not the entire inside is hollow. Is it even possible to use this same technique for pots bc of the hole??
Yes, this is totally doable. The key is to form a plug where you want the pot or hole to be, and with a straw or small pipe, have a drain hole so water can escape (if desired).
Can you give any tips on how I would latex mold a sculpture that has holes in it? It's basically a koi fish that will have a hole in its mouth and underbelly. I want to use it as the top sculpture piece for a fountain. The water will come out of its mouth. I thiiiiiink, I would just put clay in the mouth and underbelly and do a 2 piece latex mold, then fiberglass. When I cast it with cement, just put a pipe through its mouth and stomach so there is an airway and the cement will harden around the pipe. Any help is appreciated!
I think you are on the right track. I would either run the actual tube or a slightly larger one so that you could insert the right size afterwards, along with having the space to replace it down the road.
YES! It is possible, but I've never done it that I am aware of. I am generally just keeping it in the mix and if I get close to the edge, I am gentler.
@@backyardadventureswithandy - i'd use a wooden spoon, body ends one to stir and one to poke ---- but it's not even necessary IMHO - fill it to 7/8, tap on the table a few times, top off - tap around the outside- how many times can the mold be used ? It would be interesting to expirement with different mixes --- old latex paint mixes well into concrete and adds color and strength in the right proportions - you could play arround with etching the outside to expose a sand finish for an agged look - powder concrete stain goes a long way and gives different shades depending on concentration - great teaching videos - it took me a bit for it all to make sense --- it's something easy to manufacture a home if you have a way to sell them.
looking good, but you must get problems with air bubbles (either at the latexing stage or in the cement/concrete itself this is a 4-part mould, is it? what are the most parts you've ever cast a statue in can I ask?
Regarding the air bubbles, I find minimal air bubbles if I rattle/tap/stir in the concrete when I pour in the mold. Usually, I get more air bubbles if the mixture is thick or when I hurry through. My biggest air bubble regret is that a statue I once copied had air bubbles on it, and I made a mold of that statue. I should have shaved off the air bubbles, because now every one of my statues has an air bubble at the same spot. As for the mold, I try to minimalize the pieces, so 4 pieces plus a plug is the most I have used so far. I suppose a tricky statue may require more, but the tortoise is my most complicated structure.
@@backyardadventureswithandy I have been surprised to see statues (made of cement) of film characters such as - SUPER MAN aprox 2ft tall bat man & even a king kong v t rex statue (copyed from a fibreglass statue) I know that cement/concrete doesnt flow as easily into a mould as say plaster of paris, but here they were do you think you could mould film characters in cement such as...ROBOCOP or IRON MAN?
The key for me is to first tap, vibrate, shake, and all the concrete in the mold. Also, if the concrete mix is thick, it tends to have more air bubbles. I often go for a thick soup rather than a harder sludge. Then, I tap and rattle a bit to knock air bubbles up.
@@raynesmommie Hello, regarding the paint, seal it AFTER so that the paint can really absorb into the statue and act more as a stain. Most of my statues I don't even seal, and they are still great years later.
72 hours is great, and the patience for the extra day may be great. I had a couple times where I forgot to demold a statue after a week and two things happened. First, parts of the extra stuff that I did not want, like seams that squirted out of the mold, were harder to chip away because the concrete was getting too hard. Second, the mold seemed to be affected a bit...almost dried out too much. 72 hours is good though...
You are correct that shipping is not practical, so everyone I have known that has sold these has done so "locally." I post periodically on social media and get a slow stream of purchases with minimal effort. I think I could do better, but it is more of a hobby right now.
All I do is go to my local Home Depot, and get the general, all-purpose ready-mix concrete. In my area, it is Quikrete brand, but I've used others, too. They all work great for me. For statues that have narrow thinks like ears or legs, I will put scrap wire, bolts, or other long metal to reinforce, but that is not critical. Have you made statues before and had problems with concrete?
These will last decades. My painted ones will last several years before the paint starts to show age or deteriorate, but the actual concrete is pretty tough. I suppose the finish of the concrete could show signs of age of out in a constant stream of rain, year after year, but I think decades is accurate!
The ratio is the same for all concrete. With cement powder, it becomes concrete when you mix with sand/stone. That mix give strength to the cement. I think of it as glue...the cement is the glue for the strong rock/sand particles.
I am not at a spot where I have the time to do that, but thanks for asking. My actual tortoise mold is wearing out and ready to be replaced, but other priorities in life have blocked that for now.
Im nervous about the chicken a lot of delicate parts... I made a duck decoy and the beak was so delicate and has broke off every one i tried (4), i add a lot of baling wire to insure there is plenty of strength. ... i was thinking about making the beak out of resin and attaching it to the cement with baling wire while poring so the wire is in both cement and resin. just an idea... However with that being said i just had a single half seam the full length of the ducks underside tail to beak. I also let it dry for a week before i took it out of the mold. Maybe if i did full seams and the beak in its own part of the seams... any input would be appreciated.. thanks for sharing we know it a hassle to make these videos for youtube.
I also have a couple statues with these challenging parts, including an eagle on a rock with a challenging beak and the chicken I just made in these videos. Both have benefitted from having a mini-seam, although on my eagle, the mini-seam does not always protect the end of the beak where it hooks down. I've never tried a resin beak or addition, but if I can nail the concrete fragile piece, it seems to do great once it hardens up. I suggest a mini-seam (or a full fledge seam), as without it, most statues will break up. Also, if you can thicken the beak at all with clay to make it stronger before you make the latex mold, that also helps quite a bit.
@@backyardadventureswithandy wow thanks for your input... i think i will try the mini seam, will i need to make a new latex form or have you had good luck adding the flange to alter the original? Also i have never heard of adding clay to cement. I have some ceramic clay will that work? Do you have a clay/cement mix recipe,, i can probably google it as well ... Happy Friday
@@doriscampbell9260 Let me clarify...I have finished making molds that didn't do well around thin parts like a beak or ear. It does not work to add and reapply latex to make a seam on a finished mold, however, the next time I make a new mold, I am sure to add more seams. I have forced a seam on already made molds by just cutting the mold. It sometimes works. I see that I was also confusing about the clay comment. I was referring to the original cast before I make a mold. I have started taking molding clay and shaping it to be a thicker ear or beak to thicken up breakable parts on an original cast, so that when the latex mold is finished, those parts hold up better.
@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you for clarifying what you're doing with the clay. Can you please add a link or description of the type of clay you use to add to the original cast. I do a lot of woodcarvings so working with clay should be easier already being shaped with the original cast. Thanks for your input.. Have a wonderful day😁
I heard in the past that 100-200 statues per mold. I do not make enough statues to wear most of mine out, but my most popular one is barely making statues and needs to be replaced. It has been around 5 or 6 years and possibly 200 statues?
I actually use the standard Quickrete all-purpose mix, as it holds up great for everything I do. There are fancier versions sold, but I have not noticed enough of a difference to spend the extra money on those.
The statues come from all over. Some are concrete statues made here in the Northwest, as suppliers have remade molds for decades from statues years ago (no copyright). Others are from random items found at a thrift store. I am sure the squirrel lamp that I modified for a mold was made in some factory, but I am not sure.
I just shared this comment with another similar question: Most of the time, I just use the premix bags at the local Home Depot or Lowes. I have had continual success with just the normal bags without special binders or ingredients. And, the mix is usually a bit thicker than soup, but t total sludge. Thicker gets you more bubbles, I think.
This is the best mold construction breakdown that I have to say on CZcams. It’s super thorough and his explanations is easy to understand. Love your channel. Keep it up !
Thanks for the encouragement and I plan on making another statue of video soon.
@backyardadventureswithandy by chance do you have any molds of a round ball with a flat base?
I was holding my breath while you peeled off the chicken comb. Awesome videos!
Glad you enjoyed
This series was really clarifying for how to do medium size statues. I had no idea before how the supportive shell was made or how the placement of seams was decided. Also the multiple coats of latex, and making sure those coats aren't globby, was good to know.
I've only previously known about pouring single thick latex coats over rather small objects, totally different process.
Thanks for watching and I am glad these were helpful for you. It has been a while since I have been making statues, but I am hoping to make some new ones the upcoming holiday season for Christmas gifts.
This series of videos was amazing. Thank you for sharing!
Glad you like them! Thanks.
Best video explaining mold making I've seen. I learnt alot.. thank you much
Glad it was helpful! I hope someday to make some more videos related to this, but it was fun to put together a while back!
The patience to do this...Good job!
Thanks! It is pretty fun to make a statue and see the finished product.
Great 3 part series on how to make molds, you have a new subscriber. I started out few years ago and all I do now is restoration work on old statues and paint and detail new ones. I will be buying and making some of my own molds in the future. Again great video very informative and I will be using it to make some of my own molds.
Thanks Chris, and I appreciate it. I've dabbled in some finishing and have plans to do some videos down the road on it. I'm playing around with how to get increase moss to grow on statues, as it has a cool look. More soon on the other finishes...thanks for the sub!
I like the sound of the concrete pouring into the mould. Satisfying.
That is funny...I will have to listen better next time!
Really enjoyed ur 3 part video collection; I'm currently undertaking a really complex Gargoyle mold myself`, so it was great to get to view your demolding process ahead of time. ps, fantastic tip re the painters tape!
Thanks! This hobby is unique and a lot of initial work to make the mold, but really rewarding. good luck!
I have to agree with all the other comments. This is the best series of videos of its kind. Thanks.
Wow, thanks! I just started filming a new one, so look for it in a few weeks. I learned from others on CZcams, too. Blessings!
Great video brotha! I'm sure I'll be watching all 3 a few more times before it's all said and done! You got a new follower in me! Keep it up 👍
Thanks. It's a fun hobby. If you have any questions, let me know. I hope to make another statue video next week.
Keep the statues wet for first week concrete will cure even harder and reach max potential psi, but they look amazing good job
Yes, spray lightly with a hose or a spray bottle, just be careful about too much pressure because it cane damage the finish/surface.
Love all three videos, great job explaining and so thorough! Thank you!!! 😊
Thanks for the encouragement and I hope to make some more statue videos soon.
so cool!
Thanks for watching!
Those are so darned cute!
Thanks...it's an interesting process to make something fun for the yard!
Thank U ... really appreciate the time & explanations thru-out the videos ❤❤🎉
You are welcome and it has been fun to see people enjoy these. Peace...
I have a couple suggestions.
Mix your own concrete, not bag mixes. Using cement, sand and small aggregate you can create stronger better concrete at a fraction of the cost of pre-bagged stuff. If you’re really into it use a plasticizer to make your concrete more liquid without compromising strength.
After you are done your first pour mark the spots where concrete slurry seeped into the seam. Drill a hole through the fully assembled mold at those marks into the seam closer to the product and put a nut & bolt there to add pressure to that part of the seam. This should reduce the leakage making cleanup easier and a better looking product. Time is money after all.
Thanks for sharing some insightful tips, and I will experiment with this. I don't have a lot of space for storage of a trailer load of gravel and another of sand, so that is part of why I buy a few bags at time, generally, but I am chewing on this as I love saving money.
I do keep a bucket of Portland cement that I am starting to supplement my bags with, but so far, I have not noticed a difference. But, what you say is similar to a few others I have heard from.
As for the seams and all, you nailed it on the advice. My hen/chicken statue in my video is OK, but I do regret the seam placement as it is not visually the best. Thanks for sharing and giving some wisdom!!
@@backyardadventureswithandy you can go to your local landscape supply and but the appropriate sand and gravel by the bucket. I usually have about 5, 5 gallon buckets of each in my shop. Not as cheap as a truck load but still better.
I am so happy to find you. You have the skills in mold making that I would love to learn. Too bad that we are not related so I can come to your shop to learn everything you know about garden art. I have done a few sculptures that I would like to replicate but I am very intimidated about the process. I will be watching your mold videos again and again until I build some confidence about the process. Thank you Mr.Wright.
I am with you in that this is a fascinating project to learn, with some challenges! I have several new statues challenges I am hoping to tackle this next year, too! Enjoy and thanks for the support.
Dude..... what can I say but just that your vids are so informative, so on point, so to the point and so applicable!!! Amazing!
So encouraging...thanks! I enjoyed making that 3 part series and I am gearing up to start some new statues soon. The Spring gardening season is coming, and the statues are a bonus to the yard and patio.
Excellent instructional 3 parter. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge. You have a new fan and subscriber from South Jersey!
Thanks again...I appreciate the kind words.
This was so detailed and so informative Thank You!
Thanks for watching. It was fun to make this series and I still enjoy giving these statues out and selling a few here and there.
I loved this video! I did have a couple of questions that I wanted to ask if that’s alright: 1. How do you clean the latex mold so that you can reuse them again? 2. Do you prime the latex molds again with the mold release every time you make another statue? 3. Why don’t we let the concrete sit longer than 48 hours? Would that relieve some of the possibility of things breaking off?
Anyways, awesome series of videos, and I really want to give it go! Im sorry if you answered those questions in the video, maybe I’m a bad listener haha! Thanks for you help!
95% of my cleaning is just water and sometimes my hand rubbing any residue off. I can't remember the last time I had to use a mild detergent and warm water, but that is what I would use if needed. I basically rinse them each time and they are good to go again.
As for mold release (priming), YES, every time a lite spray...it will also help with the longevity of the mold.
As for letting the fresh concrete and sitting. Honestly, I am overly eager, so that is my #1 problem. However, regarding sitting longer, here is what I have experienced: In the heat of summer when it is warm (and in the shade the whole time), I prefer to go 1 day or 2 at the most. In cold seasons, I go 2-3 days and try to keep the statues in the shed to cure (60 degrees). I have heard that keeping them in the mold for a week or long amount of time is bad for the latex rubber.
Awesome series of video's Andy. I am just getting into making these and have only just put the first coat of rubber on 6 pieces I am going to make moulds of. I live in Australia and I have found that the latex rubber that I can source locally for a half decent price contains ammonia. So obviously I have to wear a filter mask. But your tips and tricks are very concise. I have searched CZcams for instructional videos about this process and most are from professionals in this field who tend to gloss over some details or just leave some steps completely out, where as you go to great pains to show each step. I have viewed this series more times than I can remember and I will still keep going back to it when I need to confirm things. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the encouragement and good luck! I hope to make some more videos on statues soon, and am working on a statue repair video. Enjoy!
Excellent series of videos. Thanks.
Glad you like them!
Great series. Of course, you should be wearing a mask when mixing concrete, but you did have a long handle on the mixer, so, not as bad as the way I would do it (lol). (Do as I say, not as I do so to speak).
I have a few instances in these videos where I need to be a bit more safe with masks or safety glasses...YES!
Dude yu got a huge backyard , you should build a pond and big ol' cement dragon fountain statue , I'll LOVE to see you build a huge dragon statue spewing freshwater
Lovely idea...I'm sure that would draw some unique attention
Thank you for sharing. This is wonderful information.
You are so welcome!
thank you from newzealand
You are very welcome
@@backyardadventureswithandy Could I have some information the rubber product You use What is it? Or comparable products?.. I'm in new zealand not everything's named the same
Brilliant set of videos, thank you.
Glad you like them!
Thank you
You're welcome
Hi! I just stumbled onto your videos. You my dear are so great at showing the step by step way of doing the mold making to final product! What a great talent you have! Rubber mold man was always who I watched in the past. I've emailed him with questions but he doesn't reply back. (He turned his comments off as well) 🙄 I am just now starting to do some crafts with concrete. I'm using some left over rockite we had from 9 yrs ago when we filled in cracks on our basement floor. I got an insane idea a few weeks ago when I saw it down there. I thought, ya know, this is just sitting down here in this 25lb box that barely had any used out of it. So I brought it up here & grabbed some silicone molds I have for making resin crafts, yes I do that too. I LOVE to craft! Anyway I mixed some up into a pancake batter/milkshake thickness & poured. I left them sit overnight since there were deep molds. I know rockite sets up in 15 mins, but I wanted to be sure. So my question is, since they cured fine, can I do a basic base coat with the watered down acrylic latex exterior paint & then once fully dry, do the dry brush effect to make the detail pop? I read rockite is stronger than concrete, but not sure how strong they are for this type of stuff. I have 2 latex molds I bought, biggest is a 16 in lion, only mold, no fiberglass backing, & a wolf head plaque, also no backing just mold. Sorry for the long winded comment/question. Just wanted you to know what I'm doing & if it will survive inside or on a covered porch if I spray a seal coat of enamel gloss over it. Keep up the great videos, you truly are awesome!
Thanks for the encouragement and while I don't know what rockite will do and hold up, I'd suspect you will have little problems if it is a cement based product. And, the finish you are talking about should work great, too. The seal is extra and so I'd think you would be just fine for decades...
@@backyardadventureswithandy Rockite is an anchoring cement for bolts, screws etc. Thank you so much for getting back to me, I will ve filing the pieces today & then doing the base coat tonight or tomorrow.
You are very welcome on the encouragement, you deserve it! I'm a new subscriber to your channel so I look forward to seeing more videos! Have a great afternoon.
Love your show. Very informative
Thanks for watching!
I have a concrete statue that is pretty beat up. If I send it to you, could you possibly give me an idea of what it looked like originally?
@backyardadventureswithandy
I have a concrete statue that is pretty beat up. If I send it to you, could you possibly give me an idea of what it looked like originally
Excellent video series, this was super well done! Thank you so much for making them!
Glad you like them!
So cool. Very informative!
Thanks! I am gearing up to start a new one soon, after not making a mold in over a year. I hope to start a beaver soon!
Great tutorial! Thanks so much!
You are so welcome!
Great job ❤
Thank you! 😄
Inspiring videos , thank you for sharing, keep up the good work. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Very nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
very helpful
Thanks...
Awesomeness!
Thanks!
Great video. I always wondered how these were made. So many steps! How’d you learn to do this?
Heather, I went to the Oregon Coast on vacation one year, and after seeing some cool statues, I spent the rest of the trip wondering if I could make them. Sure enough, the first few were a hit with gifts and for craft-sales. It's unique, but a great way to bless friends and cover the cost (or more) with some selling...
I love them
I would like to make some,
Do you all sell the molds,
I am liveing in
Trinidad WI
Hello Carol and thanks for the encouragement! At this point, I can't make the molds in an economical way to sell them and cover my time. Which one were you interested in?
Great videos, thank you for showing us step by step instructions. Can I use quikrete to make statues?
Yes, that is what I have often used.
Top video boss
Thanks and I am glad this was enjoyable!
very helpful thank you so much
Thanks...this is a fun hobby and craft!
Wow! Very well presented! Have you ever used the molds to cast anything other than concrete? Maybe resin?
Thanks. I haven't done anything else, but I hear others that do it.
your content is great
Thanks!
Love the video, I have been making concrete flower pots and birdbaths for over 40 years but have always used aluminum molds. I just bought some latex rubber molds.. My question is how long do you leave them in the mold and do you pour them outside or inside?
Some of this depends on the warmth of the weather. I typically leave them for 48 hours. In the winter, I have done a little more time. If they cure/dry too long, they are harder to work with and I think it wears on the mold faster. If it is too short, breakable pieces are more likely to break off during de-molding. I also reinforce with wire/metal on things like legs.
Regarding inside or outside, I do everything possible to keep it out of direct sunlight. I usually pour and store these under the eaves on the north side of my house, or in my shed. Sunlight and latex molds are not good for each other!!
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks
Great video! How do you know how much mix to make per item?? What is the mix to water ratio?
I estimate what I think I need and make a bit more. Often I might need a little more and I'll mix some extra. When I make the concrete, I make a bag or partial bag and only a couple statues. And, I usually have a couple dried chunks of concrete nearby in case I need some filler. If I make too much, I pour the remainder on the ground and after it dries, I use it as filler for a future statue. Concrete is cheap, overall, so making a little extra is only a dollar or so of waste.
As far as the water and mix ratio, I do it by sight to make it a sludgy slop rather than a really soupy mix. If it is too soupy, I pour a little more from my extra bag to thicken it.
What kind of concrete mix do you use thank you very much for this three-part series helped out a lot
I actually use the basic concrete mix at any Home Depot or Lowe's. It works great and I tried a couple other ones in the past and noticed no benefit. If there are fragile parts like ears or feet, sometimes I will put metal reinforcement like wire to help give strength while the concrete is hardening.
Thank you very much for your reply I'm just now wanting to get started in your videos was great thanks again
Can you do a tutorial on how to make the model? By this I mean say you wanted to make a fox, bear. Moose etc. How do you do that? I understand the process of making the mold.
I dont understand how to make the model FOR the mold.
I may be able to at some point. You might search up sculpting videos to watch how people sculpt statues. It is a whole other skill set and impressive art!
Lindo trabalho valeu tamos juntos que Deus te abençoe sempre sua ART linda meu amigo 🙏🇧🇷🇧🇷👏👏🇺🇸🇺🇸👍🇨🇩🇨🇩👍👍🇦🇷🇨🇫🇦🇹🇦🇼
Fico feliz que você tenha gostado. Obrigado mais uma vez!
Thanks for this. Will it work over modeling clay for custom pieces?
I would think the fiberglass will work on anything, and if you are talking about the latex rubber, it might have an initial problem with a wet thing like non-dry clay. it needs to dry full for each coat.
This is terrific. Thanks for making it and sharing!
I have a strange question- how do you clean the bucket of excess concrete? Thanks!
Take your bucket outside and with the hose just rinse it out. I typically have one bucket I use for concrete and never really wash it out. Sometimes I've got left over sand on the bottom with water I leave in it. If you have concrete leftover, then I would pour it on the ground in a spot where it can harden up and then I use it as filler for one of my larger statues later or just throw it away.
Nature can’t be wonderful if we treated fair. I picked up a statue that 50 inches high and it’s widest point is 16 inches wide the arms it’s a statue of mother Earth and for years I’ve been looking for a way to replicate this statue your video gives me promise I’m gonna try this method out it seems promising if you have any suggestions drop me a line. I picked this statue up at the flea market years ago , i’ve been looking for a method to re-create this statue for years this is the first time that I come across something I think it’s possible for that statue to be re-create it is off plaster of Paris out of concrete I can make it into a fountain it would be beautiful I know. Thank you for your video.The concrete mix is very important also.
If the first statue is large, I would encourage you to start on something smaller to learn how the process works. But, for me, I learned how to do this on CZcams years ago, along with through experience along the way. It's a great way to save and reproduce a statue for both you and for others. And, I just use the bags of concrete mix from my local hardware store...nothing fancy, and it works great! Good luck.
These were excellent videos and tutorials!! One thing I feel I'm missing is... once you de-mould, is there a way to clean the rubber to re-use the moulds? I imagine if you just leave the concrete bits, the next time you use it it won't look as nice. Am I right about that?
The molds usually are pretty clean, but I periodically rinse with water and let them air dry prior to reusing. I try to get it clean of concrete before reusing. Make sense?
The cement makes the status robust but relatively heavy, so wondering how air create which is cement infused with foam would stand up to the process.
I have inserted some foam chunks in the base of statues where there is space to fill. It makes them lighter.
Amazing work
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey bud was wondering if you could use this method to make like a blow mold type of thing instead of concrete?
I suspect there are a variety of other materials besides concrete, but concrete is so easy and strong. Whatever it is, it needs to be friendly to latex rubber. Good luck!
I am wanting to try my hand at making some smaller statues. Can you recommend a great concrete that will give a smoother appearance in a small mold? Thanks
I honestly recommend the basic mix that the hardware store sells for general use. It works great for me. The smoothness comes from vibrating or tapping the mix in the mild so the air bubble settle. Perhaps they have a fancier one with special fibers for the concrete mix, but this is what works well for me!
Do you mix sand and gravel with the concrete, and what parts of water to parts of concrete mix? Thanks
Most of the time, I just use the premix bags at the local Home Depot or Lowes. I have had continual success with just the normal bags without special binders or ingredients. And, the mix is usually a bit thicker than soup, but t total sludge. Thicker gets you more bubbles, I think.
Hi. I came across your video and have to say it's the best how to on mold making for concrete statues. I have a statue I am working on restoring a little girl statue that was at my grandmothers house for probably 45 yrs. My hope is to restore the statue and make copies of it for all of her grandchildren. When I bought her house, the "little girl" (as we call her)statue came with it. Ok now the question... she's a fountain. I can't find any help on how to make the mold with the water way from the bottom of the statue to the water jug where the water comes out. Is this something that can be explained in a reply? I really loved your 3 part video. A subscriber and looking forward to watching your others. Thank you- Lisa
So I have not done a piece with a water feature, but I have looked into this and one would basically run a tube through the statue where the water can connect, and then have the outflow at the spot that makes sense. The tube is simply a placeholder to get the water through, such, as a drip system
Thank you so much for your quick reply! So after I make the mold, put a plastic tube from the opening where the concrete would be pores thru the inside of the mold to where the water will exit? I guess that does make sense! I knew you would know! I just couldn't picture it. Thanks you!
Cant you live it in the mold longer to get it so it's not so fragile?
You can leave it longer, but I have run into two concerns. First, the hardened concrete can damage my mold on some areas that are excess, such as around the areas I poured the concrete in. These little areas break off easy, such as seams. I'm not sure how to explain this, but there are usually little tabs or seams of concrete or spilled parts. As I demold it, the harden concrete is harder to clean up or shave off. Second, it seems to affect the latex (slightly) if it dries in there over a longer time. It might be subtle, but I wonder if it takes life away from the mold. With that said, I have left concrete in a few for longer times because of fragile parts.
what can you use as a mold other then concrete? plastic? wood?
I've used anything that is hard. Plastic is common to copy, wood could work, porcelain, and more.
Hi I'm not sure if you have already answered this, where do you buy your denatured alcohol?
It is available everywhere, usually in the paint section of a store.
Got a question, how would you go about doing this for a plant pot. Like the more unique kind, like the raccoon you did here but it’s got a hole in the middle to be used as a plant. But the majority is still solid. It’s just a small hole, not the entire inside is hollow.
Is it even possible to use this same technique for pots bc of the hole??
Yes, this is totally doable. The key is to form a plug where you want the pot or hole to be, and with a straw or small pipe, have a drain hole so water can escape (if desired).
Can you give any tips on how I would latex mold a sculpture that has holes in it? It's basically a koi fish that will have a hole in its mouth and underbelly. I want to use it as the top sculpture piece for a fountain. The water will come out of its mouth. I thiiiiiink, I would just put clay in the mouth and underbelly and do a 2 piece latex mold, then fiberglass. When I cast it with cement, just put a pipe through its mouth and stomach so there is an airway and the cement will harden around the pipe. Any help is appreciated!
I think you are on the right track. I would either run the actual tube or a slightly larger one so that you could insert the right size afterwards, along with having the space to replace it down the road.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Awesome, thank you for replying! I think I'm gona give it a try.
Love the videos! I do have a question.. what concrete mix do you use? Sorry if you answered this in the video already. I may have missed it
I actually use the general concrete mix that you pick up at Home Depot or Lowe's. Nothing fancy and it works great...
any possibility of damaging the rubber when agitating the mix with the sharp trowel ?
YES! It is possible, but I've never done it that I am aware of. I am generally just keeping it in the mix and if I get close to the edge, I am gentler.
@@backyardadventureswithandy - i'd use a wooden spoon, body ends one to stir and one to poke ---- but it's not even necessary IMHO - fill it to 7/8, tap on the table a few times, top off - tap around the outside- how many times can the mold be used ? It would be interesting to expirement with different mixes --- old latex paint mixes well into concrete and adds color and strength in the right proportions - you could play arround with etching the outside to expose a sand finish for an agged look - powder concrete stain goes a long way and gives different shades depending on concentration - great teaching videos - it took me a bit for it all to make sense --- it's something easy to manufacture a home if you have a way to sell them.
looking good, but you must get problems with air bubbles (either at the latexing stage or in the cement/concrete itself
this is a 4-part mould, is it? what are the most parts you've ever cast a statue in can I ask?
Regarding the air bubbles, I find minimal air bubbles if I rattle/tap/stir in the concrete when I pour in the mold. Usually, I get more air bubbles if the mixture is thick or when I hurry through. My biggest air bubble regret is that a statue I once copied had air bubbles on it, and I made a mold of that statue. I should have shaved off the air bubbles, because now every one of my statues has an air bubble at the same spot.
As for the mold, I try to minimalize the pieces, so 4 pieces plus a plug is the most I have used so far. I suppose a tricky statue may require more, but the tortoise is my most complicated structure.
@@backyardadventureswithandy I have been surprised to see statues (made of cement) of film characters such as - SUPER MAN aprox 2ft tall bat man & even a king kong v t rex statue (copyed from a fibreglass statue)
I know that cement/concrete doesnt flow as easily into a mould as say plaster of paris, but here they were
do you think you could mould film characters in cement such as...ROBOCOP or IRON MAN?
How do you stop from getting air bubbles in your statues
The key for me is to first tap, vibrate, shake, and all the concrete in the mold. Also, if the concrete mix is thick, it tends to have more air bubbles. I often go for a thick soup rather than a harder sludge. Then, I tap and rattle a bit to knock air bubbles up.
Hermosas estatuas. Me gustaría aprednder hacer los moldes.soy de argentina.que material es el de los moldes.
Los moldes para las estatuas están hechos de caucho de látex. ¡Disfrutar!
Where can I get these molds? The rubber & the outer hard shell.
Some people make and sell these, but I am not sure who is still in this market. They are not quick and cheap to make, and it is a unique market.
Should you let the concrete sit longer than 48 hours before removing from the mold? Would that make it harder to remove by waiting say 72 hours?
Also, what type of paint would you use and would you seal it before painting or after?
@@raynesmommie Hello, regarding the paint, seal it AFTER so that the paint can really absorb into the statue and act more as a stain. Most of my statues I don't even seal, and they are still great years later.
72 hours is great, and the patience for the extra day may be great. I had a couple times where I forgot to demold a statue after a week and two things happened. First, parts of the extra stuff that I did not want, like seams that squirted out of the mold, were harder to chip away because the concrete was getting too hard. Second, the mold seemed to be affected a bit...almost dried out too much. 72 hours is good though...
How do you sell concrete sculptures? Being made of concrete, weight cost rhrough mail over weigh any profits?
You are correct that shipping is not practical, so everyone I have known that has sold these has done so "locally." I post periodically on social media and get a slow stream of purchases with minimal effort. I think I could do better, but it is more of a hobby right now.
Can you please tell me what kind of cement mixed you used. Thanks
All I do is go to my local Home Depot, and get the general, all-purpose ready-mix concrete. In my area, it is Quikrete brand, but I've used others, too. They all work great for me. For statues that have narrow thinks like ears or legs, I will put scrap wire, bolts, or other long metal to reinforce, but that is not critical. Have you made statues before and had problems with concrete?
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to me.
You are weclome!@@IAbulldogs
How Long Do These Pieces Last Out Doors ?
These will last decades. My painted ones will last several years before the paint starts to show age or deteriorate, but the actual concrete is pretty tough. I suppose the finish of the concrete could show signs of age of out in a constant stream of rain, year after year, but I think decades is accurate!
Im doing a small scale mold what would be the ratio of water to cement powder
The ratio is the same for all concrete. With cement powder, it becomes concrete when you mix with sand/stone. That mix give strength to the cement. I think of it as glue...the cement is the glue for the strong rock/sand particles.
Hello Would you be willing to make or sell me the Large Turtle Garden Statue Animal Sculpture for the Outdoor Yard mold? Let me know .
I am not at a spot where I have the time to do that, but thanks for asking. My actual tortoise mold is wearing out and ready to be replaced, but other priorities in life have blocked that for now.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Okay then where can I get a turtle that size?
Could you put cement over paper mache?
I am not sure if the wright of the concrete could handle it, but you could make a mold over it, carefully.
Do you know anywhere in the UK to buy the molds please
I am sorry, I do not. There seems to be very few people who sell these, partly because they can take a lot of time to make, so they are expensive.
Im nervous about the chicken a lot of delicate parts... I made a duck decoy and the beak was so delicate and has broke off every one i tried (4), i add a lot of baling wire to insure there is plenty of strength. ... i was thinking about making the beak out of resin and attaching it to the cement with baling wire while poring so the wire is in both cement and resin. just an idea... However with that being said i just had a single half seam the full length of the ducks underside tail to beak. I also let it dry for a week before i took it out of the mold. Maybe if i did full seams and the beak in its own part of the seams... any input would be appreciated.. thanks for sharing we know it a hassle to make these videos for youtube.
You bring up several important issues...I will post some thoughts tomorrow! Thanks
I also have a couple statues with these challenging parts, including an eagle on a rock with a challenging beak and the chicken I just made in these videos. Both have benefitted from having a mini-seam, although on my eagle, the mini-seam does not always protect the end of the beak where it hooks down. I've never tried a resin beak or addition, but if I can nail the concrete fragile piece, it seems to do great once it hardens up. I suggest a mini-seam (or a full fledge seam), as without it, most statues will break up. Also, if you can thicken the beak at all with clay to make it stronger before you make the latex mold, that also helps quite a bit.
@@backyardadventureswithandy wow thanks for your input... i think i will try the mini seam, will i need to make a new latex form or have you had good luck adding the flange to alter the original? Also i have never heard of adding clay to cement. I have some ceramic clay will that work? Do you have a clay/cement mix recipe,, i can probably google it as well ... Happy Friday
@@doriscampbell9260 Let me clarify...I have finished making molds that didn't do well around thin parts like a beak or ear. It does not work to add and reapply latex to make a seam on a finished mold, however, the next time I make a new mold, I am sure to add more seams. I have forced a seam on already made molds by just cutting the mold. It sometimes works. I see that I was also confusing about the clay comment. I was referring to the original cast before I make a mold. I have started taking molding clay and shaping it to be a thicker ear or beak to thicken up breakable parts on an original cast, so that when the latex mold is finished, those parts hold up better.
@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you for clarifying what you're doing with the clay. Can you please add a link or description of the type of clay you use to add to the original cast. I do a lot of woodcarvings so working with clay should be easier already being shaped with the original cast. Thanks for your input.. Have a wonderful day😁
How long will a mold last? Please tell me forever?
I heard in the past that 100-200 statues per mold. I do not make enough statues to wear most of mine out, but my most popular one is barely making statues and needs to be replaced. It has been around 5 or 6 years and possibly 200 statues?
What type of concrete mix do you use?
I use the standard bags of concrete from hardware store. Nothing fancy for me and they work out great...
What type of concrete do you use?
I actually use the standard Quickrete all-purpose mix, as it holds up great for everything I do. There are fancier versions sold, but I have not noticed enough of a difference to spend the extra money on those.
Can u make a three trie japanses laterntans
It's possible...I've seen them at beach shops with statues
Hey I know a good out side video that would get views. A fishing video
Hmmm...like a koi pond video or salmon fishing? Or, smoking salmon in the "backyard? Yes!
Yea all of those sounds good
My favorite out of your ideas is the salmon fishing
I'd watch that, I'm an abysmal fisherman 😂
Salmon fishing really kicks up later in the summer and fall...but maybe a smoking salmon video! I'd love to go get some king salmon, though
Who makes the statues for you to use. its like what comes first the chicken or the egg Please don't say there made in China.
The statues come from all over. Some are concrete statues made here in the Northwest, as suppliers have remade molds for decades from statues years ago (no copyright). Others are from random items found at a thrift store. I am sure the squirrel lamp that I modified for a mold was made in some factory, but I am not sure.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks for your reply. Dave from the UK.
great set of video`s, what was the concrete mix ratio? i think i must ahve missed it.
I just shared this comment with another similar question: Most of the time, I just use the premix bags at the local Home Depot or Lowes. I have had continual success with just the normal bags without special binders or ingredients. And, the mix is usually a bit thicker than soup, but t total sludge. Thicker gets you more bubbles, I think.