Installing Risers on a Septic Tank
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- Installing risers on a septic tank so that the homeowner will never have to dig it up again.
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Awesome video! We did ours today. Thanks to your video, the project went off without a hitch. Thanks again!
Just installed risers on my tank, I live in Northern Michigan, and they tend to bury the tanks deep, mine was 27 inches deep. My septic pump guy loves me now
47 years Local-3.
Storms, Sewer and Water.
You did one hell of a job!
When I do get risers, I still would use my concrete lids. That is just a personal preference.
We’ll usually leave them in unless it’s deeper than 18”
I'm a fan of the Tuftite risers over the Polylok. Just noticed you are using Wholesale Septic. Those guys are great and we've switched over to ordering almost exclusively through them.
You guys are good! Well explained, good filming and it genuinely seems like you guys care. I wish more ppl were like you. Im subscribing. Thank you
Fantastic vid! Thank you Bob Ross 😊
I am surprised Dominic mentioned The one and only Bob Ross younger people Have no Clue Who he is
If you use a regular drill instof an impact you can set the tension so it stops and starts clucking when it has a little bit of pressure. Which will save you a some time on each install. Only a few minutes but it adds up eventually and then you dont have to worry about stripping anything.
Thank you. I had the question about needing to keep the heavy cement lid when using a riser and you just answered it. My tank is buried about 5 feet down for some reason (in S. Nevada so we don't have hard freezing) so it's a pain to dig down to it for pumping. Next time I get it pumped I'm putting in risers!
10/10 on that install.
Side rant about my area:I have images of tree roots destroying some of those risers. It confuses me that installers today use silicone sealant on dirty risers with the false-assumption that the sealant's seal will last the lifespan of the system. Often I find roots under the inlets or outlet pipes where I can almost guess without looking. Silicone easily loses grip on surfaces with all of the gasses in those tanks, it's not awful but just not so simple to get the ideal seal to last the lifespan of the products. If I had a business then I might look into a root-deterrent product to mix around the backfill so that any upgrade near a tree will have more protections.
What makes my grievance worse is that TCEQ allows installs to vent the aeration-tank through the gaps in the risers, it's a horrible idea. I have images of these horrific installs blowing bubbles b/c many of the properties in cites have a December-water-table literally at 0-inches-of-soil above the water-table, a USDA measurement for farming. The installers still don't vent the aeration tank safely here & are sending it into the soil or house-plumbing. It's just Total Fail out here. I ended up getting pictures of the yard-ponds in hopes the county will allow complaints on water entering sewage-tanks on floodplain-land. It's so slow & broken that we need a new install-design-system for OSSFs here in Texas, TCEQ has dropped the ball & gassed lots of unaware people who thought they were purchasing something better than a 1970s cesspit.
I just added one of these tuf-tite riser set-up to an old plastic Norwesco tank from the 90s at my house. It did not take 30 min to install. The old screw-top lids had failed a while ago so I had to order oversized 24" TAR (Don't use the RTT as it has less surface area to work with) rings on the 20" ovalized opening. I ended having to put 4 bags of quikrete around the base just to get a level surface and put in some anchor bolts just to make sure. I bought butyl tape (don't do that, you want the rope), butyl caulk, and the great stuff pond and whatever its called. Not sure of the, if any advantage of butyl rope/tape but it is a PIA to put on. Next time I'd stick with the butyl caulk, not super sold on the longevity of the great stuff pond...I actually used all three because I had them and why not. Plus I got to walk around my house and fill all the extra gaps with the extra great stuff. Long story long, now that my septic is all nice and sealed, I hear the faucet drain on the highest part of my house burping at night? I am guessing it may be a roof vent is plugged or something but I am game for any other thoughts or advice?
We hear gurgling sometimes too, that is a good question. My sister has a septic and said one day their upstairs bathroom smelled like septic, and they had to fix that pipe on the roof. After we had ours pumped, our upstairs bathroom smelled like septic. We called a plumber friend and he told us to run water for 20 minutes because we don't use that bathroom very often. Fixed the problem and it stopped smelling bad! Just another idea!
My Son and I are going to do this. Thank you !!!
I prefer the orenco lids and ultra rib risers, but that's just me. Set them with jet set and spread some bentonite around. Makes everything nice and impermeable to roots.
Probably would be helpful to have a shoebox battery vacuum to clean up around the lid box before install the riser.
I would love for you to make a video on the financial side of your business. Such as how much you charged for pumping the tank you videoed. And the cost of installing these risers. Looking to start my own septic pumping business. Thanks
Did you ever get up and running? If you did would you mind teaching people as well? I want to get started and do not want to go work for a company as I drive truck for a living and don’t get much time to work somewhere else, I have to get out of the truck as it’s taking all my freedom and I can’t afford to go anywhere else as my bills are to high to work a 9-5. I want to be my own boss and hope to buy a pumper truck and get started myself
@@ruralrouteadventures8424 I bought my mom’s cousins pump truck for 1,000 bucks 5 months ago. It’s sat at my dad’s shop since the day I bought it.
I own 3 mobile home parks in mayfield ky.
I work from 6am-3:30pm as an electrician.
My life long friend and I started a plumbing company. He had his masters license and I had the money to get the business started. So after work I’ll go do service calls until 10pm.
I advertised the pump truck like crazy in my area. In 5 months I only got 3 calls so I’m honestly not worried about getting my truck going. That’s where I’m at on it!
I have been following your videos and thanks to them I have been able to do things with my septic, thank you from kentucky
Safety pan inside the riser is awesome up north.
If i ever were to have a septic system, i would like to have a flat metal manhole lid. It looks far better in my opinion and i would trust a metal lid more.
Well sewage is highly corrosive. So good luck!
Can you do a step by step of what you do and why you do it? I’d like to learn so I can start this in my area in Tennessee. I need to get out from other people and be my own boss. I drive semi now and hate it. Thanks
Dominick, great info. Appreciated the close-up photography and the non-existing obnoxious soundtrack so many YTers seem to believe is mandatory.
Are these the only risers that you use? Was thinking of trying to use PVC corrugated pipe 24 inch in diameter, so we can cut to fit the depth.
Our future final grade will probably change and that is the reason for choosing the PVC over fixed height risers.
Dude, that was a great video. Thanks. I may need it this next week.
Another great video, that looks like satisfying work!
That's some great stuff! 👍
Welcome to Poop Soup University in today's video we will learn how to install Septic tank Risers great video Dominic and TY for adding Bob Ross in your video the man is a legend
Have you ever read the instructions for tuff tite lids? They say to use fast set concrete on the back side of lid. I thought that was pretty interesting when installing them
Out of all the tanks I’ve pumped in the past 5 years, I’ve never seen any tuff tite lids with concrete on the back sides of the lid lol. Pretty interesting though
@@PoorPumperSociety I understand the concept to make them heavy so kids can't lift off if the screws are missing but i wonder how many people actually follow that step. I have never seen the practice used.
Waooo you make it look easy,
Thanks you for this video, very helpful, Awsome 👍👍
Ours is a plastic tank with a plastic lid. Would you still use the sealant to connect the riser to it? Great video. It should be law in every state to have risers. We are one year into our home and had to hunt it down. Seems crazy to tear up the ground over and over again to have it serviced but our builder said that homeowners object to the look. Crazy if you ask me because you can’t check it.
Dudes voice sounds like Kurt Vile. Great tutorial video.
Is it true when pumping out the tank they dont pump all tge crap at the bottom? ie.... dirt supposedly
Over the years, my septic monitoring company has stripped out or broken most of the plastic screw holes in my risers and riser covers (using impact drivers). Is there any secret Poor Pumper Society way of fixing that aside from replacing the entire risers and lids?
any suggestions on finding a 12" tank adapter ring? 12" riser and 12" lid are no problem to get. great video as always.
Thanks for the video!!! I've found the inlet access, about how far back should I dig to find the outlet access hole? Single chamber 900 gal. cement tank from circa 1974. Approx. is all I'm wondering. Maybe 4'-5'? TY. :)
Very good video. Thorough and well explained. Question I have is the riser I bought is 24 inches and my cover to my concrete tank is 24 inches. I would have to pull the cover to get the tough tight ring to seal. I would not be able to put the concrete cover back. Is there a secondary cover I can get and use, leaving the concrete cover off? Or do I try to find a 30 inch riser and start over?
Good video lots of useful information
Excelente, well done, 👍👍
Do they make a riser for the old square inlet septic tanks
21:54 how'd you find that out? Lol
With the Texas sun beating down on those lids , how long will they last before the plastic starts breaking down?
Hard looking dirt😮
That's butter compared to the hard clay in the Dallas area. Its like concrete.
All septic tanks installed in Texas after 9/1/23 are required to have risers over all port openings extending to 2 inches above the surface.
nice video, very informative
Great video wish I have seen it earlier do you recommend where to get the risers
Do you have any decentralized wastewater systems nearby? A tour of one would be a great video!
So could I use the lip and poly lid if I didn't want to raise it just add a poli lid?
How much do you charge a customer to locate and dig up the buried lids? Thank you
What's that big circles on the risers used for?
Question, does the smell come out when the cleanout is above ground?
No there's an O ring that seals it when you screw lid on.
I'm a bit confused by what you said starting at about 10:00. Are you saying you use the sealant to make a gasket and THEN use the Great Stuff? Or were you saying one or the other?
My tank has square lids. Do they make square risers?
Usually the existing square hole for the original concrete lids fits inside the PVC riser. If it doesn't, they make adaptor plates that allow us to fit the tube to the square hole.
Same way i do them.
Excellent video, I had a question that I hope you can answer. I installed my septic system 5 years ago and just dug the top off so i can get it pumped out. I realized that there are 3 ports on the top. Would it be wise to put a riser on each port?
Anyone know how much weight the covers can handle?
Do you not need to screw the riser into the septic? Adhesive is really enough? Thanks for the video and explaining the process.
How would you even do that?
Will this work with flood irrigation? Or is the seal not good enough?
Have you used the Orenco ultra rib risers? We install those in my area. They seem to be more sturdy and can be cut to size instead of stacking sections
I got a question. I have an old house made in 1960. Im assuming the septic tank is the same age. I had it backing up and had no way of knowing where the tank was. The Health department said I needed the old address back when it was installed and the previous owned will not answer my messages. I did notice a water spot and dug at it until I found the source which was the sewer line from the house and it had a good crack in it. To I noticed the water was still in the pipe after clearing the mud away. That told me I had a clog or a full tank. I snaked it 40 of the 50 ft and just by chance my neighbor had an old probe and I probed a hump in my yard and found it. Long story short, it had an inlet on the top and the pipe and elbow separated. I worked the elbow off and it had a decent nasty clog and I snaked it and worked it lose. I haven't come across a lid yet and I have a good 90% cleared of dirt. The tank appears to be 5' wide and maybe 10' long. I decided to stick a 8' furring strip in the hole to check the contents and dept. It was almost all liquid. Maybe a little slurry but pretty good compared to what Ive seen with videos on here. One thing I noticed is the bottom of the tank was 3' exactly below the top of the liquid. I'm really confused. I read most are 6' deep tanks. So my questions and I hope you answer is. Do some older tanks not have a lid? (Im seen some on here with slabs). Also is it normal to have such a shallow tank inside? (Maybe back then?, the tank is actually probably 5 wide x 4 depth x 10 length).
It is a bob ross painting...but with poop
Why aren’t risers installed with the Septic Tank? Is that possible? Sure would make things easier.
They do that now in most places because it is part of Code. But before....they didn't make risers so....can't place something not invented yet.
8:27 not much deeper for front range in CO
Polylok riser to Orenco filter compartment
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Brother, what is your salary?