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Zen and the Art of Peening a Scythe Blade
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- onescytherevol... I filmed this video back in 2010 for my scythe customers that bought FUX (aka SFX) anvils from me for sharpening their scythe blades. I've switched to Picard anvils now, but there are quite a few of these anvils out there, so if you have one here are some ideas on how to use it.
onescytherevolu...
This is one of the clearest presentations I've seen on peening a scythe blade.
I know right! It's really clear in showing the peened vs non-peened areas
I don't know how many videos you've seen, but this is THE clearest of all the ones I've seen, and I've seen plenty.
I've watched five different videos of how to peen a scythe. They were all pretty good but this one is best. Good close up clear view of the newly peened steel where it brightens. Cool use of Zen and the intermission was brilliant. Thank you for this informative video.
One of the best videos on CZcams on Scythe Peening! Thanks for sharing! Greetings from Germany!
Thank you Sir for your dedication to teaching everything in relation with the scythe !
I do not use a guide plate and of course one of my biggest issues was keeping the edge precisely at the top of the anvil. Today, I have found out that letting the back of my left hand's fingernails slide along the anvil while holding the blade firmly is a great help, thus improving ease and speed of the whole thing.
Outstanding visual clarity. Well done and thank you!
Thank you for the excellent video. You show how the blade changes with each hammer blow. I also enjoyed the Welsh Harlequins during the intermission!
Great cinematography! Loved the intermission!
Intermission! Classic!
Thank you for the clarity.
And I love the title.
im going to start using a scythe, weedwackers just get you dirty and its to tedious to use for large areas, handtools just give way more satisfaction and is almost like meditation to use imho
I just sold my sit own lawn mower/tractor and will do the larger areas with a scythe from now on. I quit my job, sold my car and cell phone and some other things. Switched to using cash and growing our own food. The scythe will become more important in the future with tough times ahead of us and our children.
@@fabiancanada8876 This comment aged exceedingly well. I hope you are doing well, too.
@@bonniebon7335 Its funny that you say that, it really has gone crazy since then! Like 20% inflation, etc. I am glad to have sold the second vehicle and we are actually doing ok thanks (hope you too)
@@fabiancanada8876 thanks for responding. Glad you're doing okay. Your actions then were based. We were poor heading into 2020. Own little, but own it all. So, we're good. Only just now feeling it. Be well.
@@bonniebon7335 Good for you! I learned that there is the danger of "the more you own, the more it owns you". So we all really need to think constantly of what we really need (figure out the wants/needs). But is requires time to reflect, etc. on if you are just hustling to make ends meat you start to get into the negative down spiral.. anyway, wish you all the best!
Lovely video. I'm watching it again a year later!! Can I ask, how do you START with a new blade, that couldn't be called 'blunt' but has a thick slab of a spine about 2mm thick where the blade should be?? Do you file it all down with a deep band (1cm back into the blade)? Or do you start coarse peening immediately??
On the one hand, filing is not totally wrong, after all this is the way the factories make the bevel on the new scythes. On the other hand, in order to avoid losing a lot of metal, I would try to peen and see how hard the metal is / how it responds to peening ; if you are lucky, the metal is soft enough and you can restore a bevel just like this.
GREAT VIDEO! However, the intermission could have been a little longer, the line for popcorn was rather long.
Great video, thank you!
Very good technique, thanks!
Always love seeing this.
2:34 The right support is metal touching your recently sharpened edge, isn't it counterproductive? Why not using a wood block instead?
Awesome video, would be nice to know how the blade should touch the anvil since I don't have a guide.
Even if you do have the guide plate, you have to set it where you want it by bending the wings. It's not pre-set. I explain how to position the blade in my manual. But basically you position the edge just a hair past the apex of the radius, towards you. The edge is pressed down so that it is in solid contact with the apex of the radius of the anvil face.
Thanks for the excellent videos! I want to use a scythe and am primarily left-handed (LH), which really means that I am semi-ambidextrous with an advantage in the left hand. Peening looks to be a right-handed (RH) task for the RH scythe, which seems to be the standard. Curious to know if anyone sharpens a blade for lone-working lefties - we are quite adaptable, if not.
You can peen in the other direction as well (beard to tip). If a lefty is peening a right handed blade, most I've seen just skip peening the last few inches at the tip. Just hone it more up there after peening.
I have peened a right-hand blade using my left hand for hammering, and it worked fine. It's good to be semi-ambidextrous as one's strong hand can get tired.
Thank you for the great details you provided. I love that peening jig, gotta get me one.
2 Questions:
How often do you peen?
How long does a single pass usually take?
Best view on CZcams....
Very helpful, thank you.
Thanks, it helped a lot for my first time peening. I'm quite satisfied with the thienness I got on my blade, but the edge is a bit undulating, with little waves here and there instead of a straight edge. Is it normal?
ive got a FUX grass blade for my smallMeadow i was told in the advice booklet i got with the Scythe that FUX blades wont need any peening until they ve done about 16 hours mowing because there Triple peened in the FUX Factory anyone any experience with this ?
I'm sorry if i missed it or its a stupid question, but it looks like happens after you sharpen it. Does this require a sharpening afterwards, too?
Looks like on those hammer strikes a slight wrist movement is required alongside locking the elbow.
+Zig Zag Not much, though. I would let a wrist action develop naturally as you are learning, instead of intentionally adding another motion to start with. For most people peening is a totally foreign activity for their existing neuromuscular co-ordination. Once you have developed the new co-ordination, and know how to peen, you can do what ever works best for you. I am just trying to teach a method that gets people started in a good way, and that does not result in wrecking their blade. Consistency and accuracy is the key. Inconsistent and inaccurate hammering moves more metal in some places and less in others. The resulting differences in tension leads to cracks, or worse, waves springing up at the edge. These waves are very hard to fix. It is best to start learning by staying at the edge (instead of several rows in), and learning to be as accurate and consistent as possible. Limiting the number of joints in motion will help.
I have a question, with hammering the metal portion get thinner and wider , the metal on the outer bevel basically becomes stretched and "longer", Will It result in a wavy bevel? I see on old used european scythes with bevels going up and down, maybe with a good arc but not flat
Waves are the result of moving an uneven amount of metal. A consistent force with the hammer, plus consistent advancing of the blade, so that every mm is peened equally, will move the metal out smoothly and will not result in waves.
One Scythe Revolution thank you for the reply, i have a brand new austrian scythe, i grinded the First bevel with a wetstone, for the next bevel i Need to peen it
Do i Need a flat face Hammer or a light convex face?
Your video was VERY useful, thank you so much
Your welcome! I like a slightly convex hammer.
I like to furiously peen my scythe when I am home alone at night
Are both peening techniques complementary to eachother, or not necessarily and it's just one or the other? You have to do both to get a sharp edge, or are there situations when it's sharp after using 1 technique? Or perhaps situations you decide on using the dragging AND straight down hammering technique?
Yes, I think both techniques are complementary. I always follow the drawing hammer strike with the straight down hammer strike. If the bevel of the edge is already quite drawn out, I will skip the drawing strike and just use the straight downward hammer strike to finish peening the edge.
@@BotanAnderson Thank you. I will start mowing my grasslands by scythe coming seasons. Very much looking forward to that. Your videos have been a great help so far, cheers.
When you finish work do you peen the blade for next time or peen the blade before you start work? Bruce from the city of Orange in Orange County Calif.
How much it wil cost anvil complet whit hammer and customs duana to shipp to Serbia?
Поздрављам брата.
Merci pour cette vidéo bien didactique.
THIS IS THE BEST !
Good rhythm, nice sound but,............we need MORE COWBELL BABY!
Super cool
140723 Thank you
It would be helpful(maybe, maybe not) to show how the blade lays on the anvil and its orientation to the guide..ping ping ping ping ping
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The edge is probably work hardened as a result of the peening. Honing will not work harden the metal, whether it is iron or steel.