DIY Engine Building Tips & Tricks That Are Not Talked About Enough
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- Recently I was building a 396 Big Block Chevy and I realized that there are a lot of tips, tricks and techniques that I fell are not talked about, or shared enough. So while I was assembling this engine I decided to stop filming at times, so I could discuss some of these points that I feel should be more commonly discussed. A few of my favorite items are, the order of the camshaft installation, the block eyebrow for the 396, and setting your base ignition timing.
I really want to hear what you think of the video and the tips included. If you have other tips, or do things differently I would really love to hear about them, so be sure to jump into the comments section and let me know!
Chapters:
:56
Block Prep, Oil System Modifications, Thrust Bearing Modifications
3:14
Timing Gear Wear, Oil Mods to the Main Cap, Oil Mods to the Oil Filter Inlet, Oil Galley Plug Hole
4:52
Camshaft Installation
5:55
Measuring Bearing Clearance, Plasti-gauge vs. Micrometers, How to Calibrate Bore Gauge, Measure your Bearing Shell Thickness
8:51
Offset the Rear Main Seal, Apply Sealant to the Underside of the Main Cap and Edges of Rear Main Seal
9:50
Cleaning Cylinder Bores with ATF, Knock Down Sharp Edges on Pistons, "Eyebrow" the Cylinder Bores, Piston to Deck Height, Head Gasket Thickness & Diameter.
15:13
Choosing the Right Style of Piston Ring Compressor.
15:57
Seal the Oil Pump to Main Cap, Seal the Oil Filter Adapter to the Block, Weld the Oil Pickup to the Pump.
17:08
OEM Valve Guide Hight, Valve Seal Selection, Best Way to Install a Distributor and be on Time.
Follow me on Instagram: / _autotechnick_
#ratmotor #bigblockchevy #454 #427 #496 #402 #bbc #chevy #bigblock #musclecar #horsepower
0:00 Introduction
0:56 BLOCK PREP OIL SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS THRUST BEARING MODIFICATIONS
3:15 TIMING GEAR WEAR OIL MODS TO THE MAIN CAP OIL MODS TO THE OIL FILTER INLET OIL GALLEY PLUG HOLE
4:53 INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT FIRSTI
5:56 MEASURING BEARING CLEARANCES PLASTI-GAUGE VS MICROMETERS HOW TO CALIBRATE BORE GAUGE MEASURE BEARING SHELL THICKNESS
8:51 OFFSET THE REAR MAIN SEAL APPLY SEALANT TO THE: UNDERSIDE OF THE REAR MAIN CAP AND ON THE EDGES OF REAR MAIN SEAL
9:51 CLEAN CYLINDER BORES WITH ATF KNOCK DOWN SHARPE EDGES ON PISTONS "EYEBROW" THE THE CYLINDER BORES PISTON TO DECK HEIGHT HEAD GASKET THICKNESS AND DIAMETER
15:13 CHOOSING THE RIGHT STYLE OF PISTON RING COMPRESSOR
15:58 SEAL THE OIL PUMP TO THE MAIN CAP SEAL THE OIL FILTER ADAPTER TO THE BLOCK WELD THE OIL PICKUP TO THE PUMP
17:08 OEM VALVE GUIDE HEIGHT VALVE SEAL SELECTION THE BEST WAY TO INSTALL A DISTRIBUTOR AND ALREADY BE TIMED CORRECTLY - Auta a dopravní prostředky
very informative😜
I stumbled across this video today and loved all the cool information shared. Just wanted to say thanks!
I am glad that you enjoyed it! I appreciate your support!!
~ Nick
I have a couple of tips for you. I use GST Racing Seals for my rear main seal. 1. they make a "1Piece" rear mail seal for the old 2 piece rear main block. there is just 1 cut in seal against leakage and i put it at the very top of the rear main. I have yet to have one leak from there. they are expensive. but worth every penny if hate oil leaks. got my from James Engineering in Broomfield CO. you should try one on your next old school big block. you wont want to go back to after using them. 2. the chrome timing covers and oil pans are junk. they do not seal well and i have found that they all tend to be warped a little bit. I believe that this is caused by the chrome plating process. seems to effect all the brands i have used over the years. I currently use the gold colored ones from Moroso and then just paint them engine color. 3. the one piece oil pan gasket from Fel-Pro is too think in the front timing cover arch and does not seal properly. I have switched to the MR gasket 1 piece oil pan gasket and it works much better. 4. use case aluminum valve covers. the stamped chrome one always leak. there are not enough bolts on the valve cover to distribute the clamping force against gasket with stamped steal. the after market stamped steel covers are very soft and even worse than the factory stamped steal covers. GM got it right with the late model 454 and its cast valve covers. 5. i test fit and line up my distributer before putting the intake manifold on. that way i know that it will line up correctly with the oil pump drive rod. when i drop it in after installing the intake manifold and i don't have to fish around with a really long screw driver or turn the engine over till it drops in. potentially wiping off the lube on the cam lobes or lifters.
Those are some great tips! Thank you for taking the time to share those with everyone! I was aware of the sealing issues with the stamped steel chrome parts, and I usually do stay away from them.
I was not aware of the one piece rear main seal that you mentioned. I will have to look those up, as I would be very interested in trying one of them out!!
~ Nick
I Just did a big block chev build this summer .. you have excellent knowledge and experience 👌 I respect you 👏
Thank you for the kind words! What kind of project is your rebuilt bbc for? I would be curious to hear some details.
~ Nick
Oil "gallery".
Hope you can provide a list of the specific tools you use and if possible links to where they can be bought, thanks!
Absolutely. I’ll see if I can get a list put together and added into the description…
@@AutoTechNick Thanks!
Get pistons with the proper pin height and they'll only be .025 in the hole. Then a steel shim will put you right where you want.
Joe, I fully agree with the above. But that only applies if you are replacing this pistons. For this refresh that I used as an example I was limited to reusing the existing pistons.
~ Nick
What paint did you use for the inside of your block?
It is a product called Glyptal
~ Nick
not a good idea to oil the back side of the bearing
Why build a 396 when 454s are a time a dozen.
I agree. It’s the same cost to build a 454 as a 396. In this case I was refreshing the engine after a thrust bearing failure.
If I were to build an engine from scratch, it would not be a small cube 396. But sometimes you gotta fix what you got.
~ Nick
Depends on what you're trying to accomplish!! If all you're trying to accomplish is torque for hauling, then the 454 will be the way to go, but if you want top end horsepower, a good 396/402/427/433 will be the way to go!
Nice job
Thank you…