Nice! I want to make nozzles for my plasma cutter. Also I have the same lathe, although ive modified it quite a bit. Instead of shimming the tool turret, I got larger shanked er11 collet holders and ground them eccentrically so i can rotate them up to the correct height individually. with the small drills its espescially important to have good alignment. I have a masso control that i plan to use for it, but the original fanuc control is still working. I made a new headstock for mine that accepts 5c collets with a 38mm through bore and also mounted an air collet closer on the back so it can pull bars to automatically make parts. I mounted a bar puller directly to the cross slide. Also I have a lathe tool touch off probe that has a special conical tip that makes aligning and setting the tools straight forward.
Wow, it looks like you have really done some serious upgrades to your lathe. A 5c collet on a small lathe like this is very cool. Thanks for the tip on the eccentric ER Collet holders!
That is indeed a lot more efficient. I thought about this method as well, but I did not have a drill of 0.4 mm that could reach through the largest hole. My 0.4 drill has a 3mm shank.
Yeah a walkthrough of the controller for parameters and typical use would indeed be useful. Will place this on the list but no promises, working on some different projects now. Thank you for letting me know and I hope I have some time to make another video on this.
Great work bud. Im basicalky doing exactly what You did here with kathe accept Im building the whole lathe from scratch on linear guide rails with 8 tool ATC and hopefully... a 3axis for milling. I might have to call on Your experience for help. Im using the same comapany they are doing a 3axis lathe controller for me.
Sounds like a great project. I am actually also in the very early design stage of trying to make my own mini lathe. Not sure if that will ever be realised, but this CNC stuff is quite addictive, so who knows. If you need any help on the controller I will try to help where possible.
The concentricity error is because you removed the bar after drilling and tapping. Even just loosening the jaws and re-clamping will change how they are clamped. You would either have to indicate it in using the 4-jaw or re-drill and tap every time you take it our of the chuck...
Thanks for the tips, there is indeed quite a bit of eccentricity when using the 3 jaw. Once I get faster at Centering parts with the 4 jaw chuck, I will probably use that more frequently.
@@uptimefab7412 A little trick I learned for regaining concentricity after removing a part from the 3 jaw... use a sharpie to mark the stock position in the chuck, then try to reinsert it in the exact same orientation. It's by no means perfect, but it definitely helps a bit. Also, I could be wrong, but it looks like you didn't turn down the body of the holder at all. If you turn it first, you will have better luck regaining concentricity, because raw stock isn't that round to begin with.
Now that's definitely a small, but ambitious project. I hope that you will go further down the 3D printer nozzle rabbit 🐇 🕳 and try some different variations. Perhaps you will come up with something novel that improves upon what is available currently. Great videos, they are very well-edited and informative.
Thank, much appreciated. 3d printer nozzles are indeed an interesting project to work on. Maybe one day I will try making a high flow nozzle or something like that. As you may have noticed I do not have a fixed release schedule. Too much time going into the day job lately :)
I enjoyed the video and here are a few things that came to mind: You did the Ø0.4mm drilling after the main bore was drilled. Did you do anything to deburr the inside of the Ø0.4 hole? When you had done all the machining of the nozzle before parting it off you could have used the parting tool to create a datum surface in the material where the cone point was going to be machined. Then when you put the nozzle in for the final machining and drilling you can put the nozzle holder in the 4 jaw and centre it using this datum surface.
Hi, thank you for the tips! I did indeed not do any deburring on the 0.4 mm hole. The front seems fine but I am not sure if any burrs were formed on the inside. It could be a cause for less than optimal flow of the molten plastic. Also like the datum surface method, will try that next time.
Thanks! The ER holders came from Aliexpress. The specific ones I ordered are no longer available, but many stores on Aliexpress offer the same type. Search for " C10-ER11M-100L".
Thanks for the tip! I have never opened it so it would be a good idea to check if it is clean and lubricated. The speed "sounds" like it is not always very consistent, so you are probably right. I will have a look at this!
hey, nice work!. I noticed the printed Land Cruiser door... do you happen to have a Land Cruiser body design? I would love to print one so it matches mine :)
Hi, thank you! It is a part of the 3d Sets Bamboo 4x4 pick up, model 12. Sorry I do not have rights to share this model as it is commercially available. The price is reasonable I think. Spent much more on parts than the CAD model.
I use Fusion360 for generating Gcode. Typically I do not run a simulation if the posted Gcode, but I have used NCviewer on some occasions. It has a lathe mode (diameter mode), it is web based and free to use.
Sure, it is a CTPA, 10FRN type parting tool. Under my website article "mini cnc retrofit" there is a PDF with links where to buy the tool and holder as well as all other tools I use. Here is the link to that file: uptimefab.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/EMCO-PC-Turn-50-Lathe-Retrofit-v1.2.pdf. note that the file also contains another part off tool, which I don't use anymore so make sure to search for the type mentioned above. Explained in descriptions in last column of table in the pdf.
Cool project, thanks for taking the extra time to document it
Thank you! Much appreciated
Nice! I want to make nozzles for my plasma cutter. Also I have the same lathe, although ive modified it quite a bit. Instead of shimming the tool turret, I got larger shanked er11 collet holders and ground them eccentrically so i can rotate them up to the correct height individually. with the small drills its espescially important to have good alignment.
I have a masso control that i plan to use for it, but the original fanuc control is still working. I made a new headstock for mine that accepts 5c collets with a 38mm through bore and also mounted an air collet closer on the back so it can pull bars to automatically make parts. I mounted a bar puller directly to the cross slide.
Also I have a lathe tool touch off probe that has a special conical tip that makes aligning and setting the tools straight forward.
Wow, it looks like you have really done some serious upgrades to your lathe. A 5c collet on a small lathe like this is very cool. Thanks for the tip on the eccentric ER Collet holders!
Great video as usual!
Goed bezig!
Bedankt!
Donit in one setup:
1. Facing
2. Drilling 1
3. Drilling 2
4. Drilling 3
5. Rough
6. Thread
7. Nozzle and parting same time
That is indeed a lot more efficient. I thought about this method as well, but I did not have a drill of 0.4 mm that could reach through the largest hole. My 0.4 drill has a 3mm shank.
Would be cool if you made a episode where you go thru controller tool setting machine 0 and so:)
What you have learn so far:)
Yeah a walkthrough of the controller for parameters and typical use would indeed be useful. Will place this on the list but no promises, working on some different projects now. Thank you for letting me know and I hope I have some time to make another video on this.
Mooie retrofit, zelf doe ik dit ook maar heb een hoop geleerd van je emco project !
Groet Dave
Bedankt! Ik heb zelf ook weer veel van anderen geleerd en geef daar weer mijn eigen draai aan. Succes met je retrofit! Robin
Great work bud. Im basicalky doing exactly what You did here with kathe accept Im building the whole lathe from scratch on linear guide rails with 8 tool ATC and hopefully... a 3axis for milling. I might have to call on Your experience for help. Im using the same comapany they are doing a 3axis lathe controller for me.
Sounds like a great project. I am actually also in the very early design stage of trying to make my own mini lathe. Not sure if that will ever be realised, but this CNC stuff is quite addictive, so who knows. If you need any help on the controller I will try to help where possible.
The concentricity error is because you removed the bar after drilling and tapping. Even just loosening the jaws and re-clamping will change how they are clamped. You would either have to indicate it in using the 4-jaw or re-drill and tap every time you take it our of the chuck...
Thanks for the tips, there is indeed quite a bit of eccentricity when using the 3 jaw. Once I get faster at Centering parts with the 4 jaw chuck, I will probably use that more frequently.
@@uptimefab7412 A little trick I learned for regaining concentricity after removing a part from the 3 jaw... use a sharpie to mark the stock position in the chuck, then try to reinsert it in the exact same orientation. It's by no means perfect, but it definitely helps a bit.
Also, I could be wrong, but it looks like you didn't turn down the body of the holder at all. If you turn it first, you will have better luck regaining concentricity, because raw stock isn't that round to begin with.
Absolutely right, I did not turn the outer diameter of the holder. This is actually a really quick job, so I am not sure why I skipped that.
Now that's definitely a small, but ambitious project. I hope that you will go further down the 3D printer nozzle rabbit 🐇 🕳 and try some different variations. Perhaps you will come up with something novel that improves upon what is available currently. Great videos, they are very well-edited and informative.
Thank, much appreciated. 3d printer nozzles are indeed an interesting project to work on. Maybe one day I will try making a high flow nozzle or something like that. As you may have noticed I do not have a fixed release schedule. Too much time going into the day job lately :)
I enjoyed the video and here are a few things that came to mind:
You did the Ø0.4mm drilling after the main bore was drilled. Did you do anything to deburr the inside of the Ø0.4 hole?
When you had done all the machining of the nozzle before parting it off you could have used the parting tool to create a datum surface in the material where the cone point was going to be machined. Then when you put the nozzle in for the final machining and drilling you can put the nozzle holder in the 4 jaw and centre it using this datum surface.
Hi, thank you for the tips! I did indeed not do any deburring on the 0.4 mm hole. The front seems fine but I am not sure if any burrs were formed on the inside. It could be a cause for less than optimal flow of the molten plastic. Also like the datum surface method, will try that next time.
Once again a fantastic video. Do you have a link to where you bought the er11 holders for the drills?. Regards Thomas
Thanks! The ER holders came from Aliexpress. The specific ones I ordered are no longer available, but many stores on Aliexpress offer the same type. Search for " C10-ER11M-100L".
I think you need to service and clean the turret, I don’t remember it being that slow. Must be sticking from grud or lack of lubricant.
Thanks for the tip! I have never opened it so it would be a good idea to check if it is clean and lubricated. The speed "sounds" like it is not always very consistent, so you are probably right. I will have a look at this!
hey, nice work!. I noticed the printed Land Cruiser door... do you happen to have a Land Cruiser body design? I would love to print one so it matches mine :)
Hi, thank you! It is a part of the 3d Sets Bamboo 4x4 pick up, model 12. Sorry I do not have rights to share this model as it is commercially available. The price is reasonable I think. Spent much more on parts than the CAD model.
@@uptimefab7412 excellent, found it! Didn't know it was a model you needed to pay for but worth it.
Thank you.
What program are you using for the simulation and G-codes?
I use Fusion360 for generating Gcode. Typically I do not run a simulation if the posted Gcode, but I have used NCviewer on some occasions. It has a lathe mode (diameter mode), it is web based and free to use.
Maby use a plexi glass drill bit to make that chamfer inside the nozzle?
Thanks for the tip, haven't tried those before.
@@uptimefab7412 dont know if they come in that tiny size but maby or you have to make one.
Could you Show me your small cutoff Tool? Where i can buy it?:)
Sure, it is a CTPA, 10FRN type parting tool. Under my website article "mini cnc retrofit" there is a PDF with links where to buy the tool and holder as well as all other tools I use. Here is the link to that file: uptimefab.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/EMCO-PC-Turn-50-Lathe-Retrofit-v1.2.pdf. note that the file also contains another part off tool, which I don't use anymore so make sure to search for the type mentioned above. Explained in descriptions in last column of table in the pdf.
You could have just surfaced the holder then it would be pretty much concentric.
Thanks for the tip! Even when moving away from the 3-jaw, accurately reclamping an eccentric holder doesn't help :)