Great video Dave!! I’m with you on using the 180 flip. I trust my bunk rails more than my stops. I also hate when those koala bears get under my logs 🤣🤣.
Less movement = more production. It also means more accuracy. After the first face is cut you rotate 90 degrees and make the 2nd opening face. Doing a 180 rotation doesn't gain you anything though you think it might. For one, it's more movement which is slower, for two it can create a parallelogram which you would then have to fix just as you'd have to fix the first two cuts if they are not 90 but you've already moved more then me. 3rd, it can also get bark and sawdust under the cant and have a pushed over cant before cut 3 -- in essence you're doing more work to achieve the same thing as me. As a hobby sawyer that's ok but if you are trying to achieve max production for a customer out on the job site you've got to minimize the movement to increase the production as well as ensure those cants are as good as you can make them. Once that 2nd face is done you make the 3rd the same way thereby carrying the 90 degree faces over. Trust the side supports! DO your maintenance and remember, if the side supports can be off so too can the bunks! Maybe it's just me ;) But with 6 years on the WMLT40 I can tell you I'm faster and more accurate milling this way (not that I don't sometimes utilize the 180 flip but that all depends on other factors).....Cheers
Good video on squatting up them cants. Then pieces of bark and stuff laying on the rail will get you every time . I just had a piece of bark just about got me the other days great job….
Thanks for the video. Yes, there are so many factors to keeping the cant square. Never hurts to have attention brought to yet another way we can screw it up if not diligent.
Different mill owners to me this when I first got my mill and had trouble getting square cants . And your right if there not square it’s a pain to fix and you lose good wood .
Side supports will flex with too much clamp pressure , if you get used to clamp with just enough pressure to hold it , if it’s not 90 you can just drag or move your clamp up or down just a little to square it , saw enough you will get used to doing it by eye and get it everytime
Another good video Dave. 180 is the best way, but if you're turning a 16' long 28' log with a 4' cant hook 90 degrees is way better and a half inch out of square is an easy fix. Thank for taking us along.
It’s possible your not square after the first 2 cuts cuz saw can be dull or pushing it to hard and the sawblade is running into the log or out of the log
Man! For such an expensive mill id expect a lot less chatter! Is it always like that? I run a 30 or so yr old linnlumber mill and other than my entry cut or a blade out of set it cuts very smooth...i run mizer blades too. Not a knock, just observing...nice channel btw.
Using your back stops for squaring your cants is not very accurate and the larger the log the more you are off. Making boards it’s not a big deal, but beams it is. To square the second face for cutting, turn log up to your back stops and move mill head over cant and lower blade until it’s about 2” above cant. Now take your framing square and hold it up to the cut side of the log and the bottom of your saw blade. If those are square you’re good to go. If not use your log turner to adjust the log a little and recheck for square. Repeat until square.
Great video Dave!! I’m with you on using the 180 flip. I trust my bunk rails more than my stops. I also hate when those koala bears get under my logs 🤣🤣.
Less movement = more production. It also means more accuracy. After the first face is cut you rotate 90 degrees and make the 2nd opening face. Doing a 180 rotation doesn't gain you anything though you think it might. For one, it's more movement which is slower, for two it can create a parallelogram which you would then have to fix just as you'd have to fix the first two cuts if they are not 90 but you've already moved more then me. 3rd, it can also get bark and sawdust under the cant and have a pushed over cant before cut 3 -- in essence you're doing more work to achieve the same thing as me. As a hobby sawyer that's ok but if you are trying to achieve max production for a customer out on the job site you've got to minimize the movement to increase the production as well as ensure those cants are as good as you can make them. Once that 2nd face is done you make the 3rd the same way thereby carrying the 90 degree faces over. Trust the side supports! DO your maintenance and remember, if the side supports can be off so too can the bunks! Maybe it's just me ;) But with 6 years on the WMLT40 I can tell you I'm faster and more accurate milling this way (not that I don't sometimes utilize the 180 flip but that all depends on other factors).....Cheers
Good video on squatting up them cants. Then pieces of bark and stuff laying on the rail will get you every time . I just had a piece of bark just about got me the other days great job….
Thanks for the video. Yes, there are so many factors to keeping the cant square. Never hurts to have attention brought to yet another way we can screw it up if not diligent.
Different mill owners to me this when I first got my mill and had trouble getting square cants . And your right if there not square it’s a pain to fix and you lose good wood .
Side supports will flex with too much clamp pressure , if you get used to clamp with just enough pressure to hold it , if it’s not 90 you can just drag or move your clamp up or down just a little to square it , saw enough you will get used to doing it by eye and get it everytime
Another good video Dave. 180 is the best way, but if you're turning a 16' long 28' log with a 4' cant hook 90 degrees is way better and a half inch out of square is an easy fix. Thank for taking us along.
Love it. Learned a ton … as always
First step is to make sure tightened blade & bunk/table are perfectly parallel. Then set stops @ 90°. If your stop is low, then clamp low.
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It’s possible your not square after the first 2 cuts cuz saw can be dull or pushing it to hard and the sawblade is running into the log or out of the log
Do you find crooked logs make for bad lumber ?
Man! For such an expensive mill id expect a lot less chatter! Is it always like that? I run a 30 or so yr old linnlumber mill and other than my entry cut or a blade out of set it cuts very smooth...i run mizer blades too. Not a knock, just observing...nice channel btw.
Is a skosch a metric measurement and a smidge is standard? 🤣
Now you can show us how you keep flitches square. 😁
We do real well with a torpedo level
Using your back stops for squaring your cants is not very accurate and the larger the log the more you are off. Making boards it’s not a big deal, but beams it is. To square the second face for cutting, turn log up to your back stops and move mill head over cant and lower blade until it’s about 2” above cant. Now take your framing square and hold it up to the cut side of the log and the bottom of your saw blade. If those are square you’re good to go. If not use your log turner to adjust the log a little and recheck for square. Repeat until square.
Sped up video means the saw is too slow.
Its wood square or not, why bother? Cutting is only the first step in the process.