Airfix English Electric Lightning F.6 1/72 Scale | The Inner Nerd
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Airfix1/72 Scale Model English Electric Lighting F.6 by The Inner Nerd
Instructional time lapse video of the full build of the 1/72 scale English Electric Lightning by Airfix as shown by The Inner Nerd
The first part of this video shows the use of Photo Etched parts and scratch building techniques to detail hydraulic pipes and electrical cables professionally and cheaply around both the cockpit and wheel bays. Locitite 406 CA superglue is used in this process combined with CA superglue accelerator/activator to join the two dissimilar materials
The second part shows surface preparation techniques such as filling panel gaps and seams with Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty modelling filler/putty and sanding them smooth to get a seamless join between parts using a range of sand papers from 800, 1200, 2000, and 3000p dpi grit papers.
Also Black Basing techniques are included in this section using Mr Hobby "Mr Surfacer 1000, 1200 & 1500 Finishing Surfacer" thinned with cellulose lacquer thinners to prime the surface ready for painting, sprayed through an airbrush using Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo Needle/Nozzle: 0.15mm with Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar).
The third part of the video demonstrates the BLACK-BASING technique used to achieve a pre-weathered look and surface texture replicating that of an aged and worn aircraft. Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline is used with Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar).
Also included in this section is the Engine Exhaust painting using Alclad 2 Lacquers (Airframe Aluminium, Aluminium, Steel, Jet Exhaust, Copper & Pale Burnt Metal) and Tamiya clear paints to create a burnt metal effect.
3 layers of Tamiya X-22 Ts-13 clear gloss seal the decals in. This can be decanted and sprayed through an airbrush such as the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo or sprayed directly from the aerosol spray rattle can.
Decals follow painting with the aid of Mr Hobby Mr Mark Setter & Softer products. These products allow the decal to form to the shapes and panel lines of the surface which you can see in the video.
Next is the weathering of the model. This is started using Abteilung 502 & Winsor & Newton oil paints thinned with white spirit to a wash consistency. Then used as a panel line wash the oil is applied across the model to achieve a dirty, grimey & worn look. Further weathering including Unthinned Abteilung 502 Oil Paints to create streaking and water marks, along with AK Interactive weathering Pigments (Gun Metal, Russian Earth, Europe Earth, Medium Rust and Pigment Fixer, Worn Effects, Dark Streaking Grime Rainmark Effects) concludes weathering.
The final part of the video explains the final assembly of small parts including landing gear, lights, antennas and canopy fitment as the model nears completion. All final assembly is completed with Loctite 406 CA superglue.
Items Used
Airbrush: Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo Needle/Nozzle: 0.15mm
Compressor: Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar)
Paint: Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000, Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1200 & Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with cellulose lacquer thinner
Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Tamiya X-20A Thinner
Mr Hobby Aqueous
Abteilung 502 Oils - Black / Industrial Earth / Olive Green
Winsor & Newton Oils - Yellow Ochre / Raw Umber / Burnt Sienna / White
AK Interactive Pigments - Gun Metal, Europe Earth, Russian Earth, Medium Rust, Pigment Fixer
Vallejo Masking Fluid
Winsor & Newton UV Cut Matte Enamel Varnish
Brushes: Pure Sable Brush - Various Sizes
Glue: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya Poly Cement
Revell Contacta Professional
Loctite 406 CA Superglue
Sanding: 3M 600p / 800p / 1200p / 2000p / 3000p sheets & sponges
Tamiya Polishing Compounds (Course, Fine & Finish)
I have one of those kits. I may get to it before the reaper finds me.
I like your technique of using tape.
Another way to attach small parts (rather than using tape) is to use a toothpick with a blob of blutack on the end. Good work!
great work so far! forward to see second part!
Awesome 👍✈️
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Fantastic ,liking the timelapse too,well done
That's a very good a main structure build on the Lightening. I had gap issues at the front when I made the kit as well. Enjoyed the vid.
ChancerNW I had them too, but mine were twice the size. It was a nightmare
lovely video timing and descriptions.. enjoyed it.. thank you
The Trumpeter kit has the exact same issue when fitting the fuselage halves together
The big ejector pin protrusions inside the fuselage might have caused the forward fuselage gap when you put the two halves together. I had an F.2A kit that was perfectly moulded and an F.6 kit that had the same prominent elector marks that yours had. The F.2A went together perfectly at the front so I sanded off the ejector bumps on the F.6 kit and that then went together fine. Nice kits but the moulding quality can be a bit variable.
Did everyone see what he did when he was gluing the fuselage together? He gave us the Finger! Like "haha, I'm building this and you're not!" :p
Very. Good
Very nice :)
Another great tutorial, thanks for sharing. Can i just ask what colour grey did you paint the cockpit tub.
Cheers,
Mark, UK
Thanks Mark, I used matte Black #33 to base it and then Medium Sea Grey #165 to colour coat, spraying from the top direction only to give false shadows
the lightnings i saw close up [many moons ago] had black cockpits?
what tool do you use to add extra rivets?
Well I tried to like the video but my like button is not working it says that I like the video but it not adding the next number does anyone know how to fix it
Bradley Vaughn It could possibly be that you disconnected from your wifi while watching the end of the video with it not loading your like as your not connected.
English Patriotism :)
The_Vay23_Gaming I on the other hand am British, yet I build WW2 German tanks!
I don`t think you know what that word means :p
@@afrog2666 why do you think that?
almost bought this at colpar hobbies in aurara,co.but $29.99 is ridiculas!
7:12 What blade type do you use to make those dots?
Hey.
I really need to know, what "saw" you use for the panel lines.
Thanks.
Bruno, Germany.
SmoeLP Hello. I use a JLC razor saw blade. You can find them on ebay
Thaaank you.
Fine subject and model. Not too fond of Airfix’s softish plastic though.
Thank you.I agree, I think Airfix aren't quite there with their quality of kit compared to some of the others, but I guess the target audiences may not be the same. Amyway, thanks for watching :)
@@TheInnerNerd Currently building their Sea Fury. Decent fit, good decals but again squibly plastic. Same goes for the Meteor I build a while ago. On the positive side their kits are relatively cheap and have some interesting subjects often not covered by other manufacturers (and if so then much more expensive).
seatbelts must be like belts, i think.
I do a better job now, solder wire was the best I could do on this build, my next video includes a better solution to get seat belt detailing without using PE parts
. . . admired your skill, shame you were let down by the poor standard of the kit
The music is very annoying!!! A wax pen can be used to attach smaller parts.
There is a mute button on all devices which will help you out.
I’m sure it’s a great video but that music ... No thanks.
There is a mute button at the lower left of the window. It looks like this 🔇. If you use it then it will be the great video you're sure it is. Plus you have full control of your own music choice!
The Inner Nerd no thanks. Just watched another guy build the same model with a great commentary and no daft music. Learn to accept criticism.
@@reaper378No worries, thanks for the view anyway it helps my channel grow.
The Inner Nerd you’re welcome
@@reaper378 If you watch some of my latest videos I narrate and have different music to this. So I have always accepted criticism. Getting music to make a CZcams video isn't that simple
Plasmo