Assembly (REBUILD) Hydro-Gear Pump Exmark Lazer Z Part 2
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- HANDYMANPF.COM
For dis-assembly of this pump follow this link • Disassembly Hydro-Gear...
I waited to post this video for a month or two so I could verify the rebuild was successful and it was. So here is the video of the rebuild.
I had a problem with my Exmark Zero turn, it was aerating and discovered one of the hydraulic pumps were sucking air. So I made a video earlier of myself removing the Hydraulic pump from the Lazer Z. This the tear down of the pump assembly. I do my best to describe the parts as best as possible. I hope this helps you out.Thanks for watching.
Hydro-Gear part number PG-1GAB-DY1X-XXXX
also similar to alot other hydraulic pumps. Handyman Problem Fixer
@handymanproblemfixer #handymanproblemfixer #handyman @handyman - Jak na to + styl
Thaks Handyman. Your video was right on. Its guys like you that make CZcams Great!!!
Hey man, I know this video is old, but you saved me potentially hours of time by putting that text about the pump being 180 out. I did the same thing, turned the pump and worked like a charm. A thousand thank yous sir.
Awesome! I’m glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate you. Please like, share and subscribe
its helpful you show how these go together but yeah buddy, get a tiny bit of that sandpaper grit in a hydraulic pump and it aint gonna last very long. same as with honing an engine block it needs to be scrubbed with hot soapy water after introducing any grit, sandpaper not a good choice in hydro pumps..
I have rebuilt both pumps on my Scag which are also Hydro-Gear. One thing I would suggest is to remove the valve control arm while the main shaft is out. That way, it can be completely removed and replaced without the shaft in the way, which you can't do if the main shaft is in.
I have a similar looking pump on my 413 toro dingo. Here is the pump part # 106-9470. Nothing is wrong with the pump other than the bearing that's on the shaft (makes a loud squeaking noise indicative of bad bearing). I can confirm it's the bearing as I spray a little Kroll on that bearing while running and the sound goes away immediately. So here's my question...essentially can I just remove the shaft, replace the bearing and reinsert very carefully into the assembled pump or does the pump need to be completely disassembled to get the shaft/bearing out? It looks to be pretty straight forward based on what I see but I've never torn apart a hydro pump and would rather not disassemble this perfectly working unit just to replace the outer shaft bearing. Thoughts?
Just before you installed the charge pump (on top) you used sand paper to clean up the surface. This is a NO, NO. You should have cleaned it before the pump was put together. Grit can and will come off the sand paper and get in the pump. You then blew the top of the pump off which actually will blow grit into the pump even more. The first time you installed the check ball and spring, you had them backwards. The ball goes into the hole first and then the spring. The second time you installed it, you did it correctly. Not trying to make your video look bad, just don't want anyone to make the same mistake and have problems.
Is this your first time. Your rebuilding before you completely disassemble. Your sanding then only wiping the sanded material. Clean it completely with the spray or else the metal shavings will make the pump fail, again.
Thank you for show how to rebuild hydraulic pump
Thanks for the help!!! Murph
No problem! It was my pleasure. Thanks for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate it
I enjoyed the video. I have some pumps I was going to replace but I think now may rebuilt them. Very good information. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Very good video
al ga je popravio,svaka mu cast.
Good video. What are the torque settings for the top two bolts on the oil pump?
Thank you very much. I don’t remember off the top of my head. But what you could do is google search your pumps Model number and add torque specs and it should bring you to the manufacturers website with the proper torque specs that you need. I hope this helps. Please let me know if it doesn’t. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like share and subscribe
have you ever gone into the valve body? and can you replace the swash plate bearings that are in the housing. thanks
Yes I have been in the valve body only to replace seals. Its been a while since I have been in this certain pump.If your talking about the bearings that look like bottom end bearings on a car engine, yes you can and you should also replace the swash plate while its apart. Hope this helps.
very detail Can you add the torque specs next time around Thanks
+Denise Buckle sure, that isn't a bad idea. Thanks for the tip. Also thanks for watching and commenting. Please like, share, and subscribe.
Front seal blowing out ?
What kind of an impact were you using?
So there's nothing in the valve body to rebuild?
I know this is an old video and a very very nice one at that.
I have the same mower but a Toro.
What part number is the rebuild kit you used?
What is the OEM exmark part number of a replacement pump?
I've found them new now a days for $560 on-line.
Wondering to myself if it's easier for me to get a new one verses a time consuming rebuilt.
If you're using hydro pumps go to hydro pumps it's a hydro company that makes the pumps themselves without using a middleman to charge you more
thanks guy this was very helpful where would you obtain parts needed i have found seals and even a charge pump however i havent been able to find a supplier for parts such as swash plate or pistons cylinders springs if needed. thank you for your effort to put this on youtube
There should be a part number stamped into your swash plate, just type that part number in either eBay , amazon, google search and etc.. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. As always please like and share.
Sorry for the late reply. You can get the numbers off the swash plate and type it into a search on Amazon, EBay, or Google. You should get a couple leads. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Where is it you get the swash plate? I can't find part numbers or a listing under the diagrams.
+mikeavery2010 Try valve plate. Can you send me the link to your diagram, so that I can see if I can find it on there?
Between the insertion of the shaft and bearing subassembly, I think you forgot to install a washer, which you removed in Part 1. Please advise.
+Dan Mostacciuolo I replaced the swash plate with a new one which would look different from the original , if that's the one your referring too. I'm not quite sure which one your talking about. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like, share, and subscribe.
Correct. He forgot to install the washer between the bearings and the oil seal on the bottom. Opps!
I purchased an Exmark from a guy that replaced both hydros and the wheel motors. I picked it up cheap because the right side drive is weak. You can get the mower to drive strait on a flat surface, but it seems too weak to turn right or go up hill. Could the check ball be missing?
I made a terrible mistake. When reinstalling I tightened my bypass valves to 90 foot pounds instead if inch pounds. I think it caused my lower seal to blow out. Guess that makes me an idiot, but I will just call it lesson learned.
I hope that's all I screwed up
Your not an idiot, you are just learning. It’s a mistake you’ll never do again and can advise others not to do. But you are correct, it is a lesson learned. We all make mistakes
THANKS FOR THE KIND WORDS. It turns out the return elbow at the oil reservoir was clogged its some kind of plastic substance. Once I drilled it out and replaced my seals again all is well. THANKS for your videos
After rebuild, and re- installation it should just work? I replaced one old pump with a new one, and 30 minutes later the other pump started working intermediately, then died. I'd rather rebuild than buy another new one. Any tips? Does it need to be primed or the hydro system purged of air? All tips are appreciated.
When I rebuild them I change the hydraulic oil and filter with the specified fluid. As for bleeding the air out, The system should be primed. as for bleeding the air out I just take the lever and push forward and backwards until it's operating to its original status. I hope this helps.
+handy man that did help, thanks. I just can't believe the second one died right after installing the new one. what are the odds?
Pulled apart the old pump and found the thrust bearing shot. Got a new one to replace it with the rebuild kit. How do I prime it before re-installation?
I rebuilt my pump. Same pump as yours. When I installed it it will not build pressure. I guess Instead not sure what you meant by the oil pump being 180 degrees out. I can't get it to do anything. When I removed the oil pump cover, there was oil under it. I moved the right side controls back and forth, still nothing. Any ideas? I know the pump is put together correctly, I'm just unsure about the oil pump. It's not wanting to build pressure. Any ideas?
I have the same exact pump. Mine has little stars on the oil pump gear and the housing it rides in.
If there is a bushing in the kit to replace, you should replace the bushing. I would think the kit has a new seal for the body, not use the old one. Seems to me you rebuilt too soon. The socket used for the small seal was too small. So I'm going to install a bolt then take it out to use thread lock. I know it's easy to criticize but using Emory cloth and not getting rid of the debri isn't good.
I made this video 6 years ago. That pump was spotless when I put it together. I did replace the bushing and seals. I have absolutely no clue what you are talking about. I also flushed the system and changed the oil. This rebuild I did in this video still runs flawlessly to this day. I have been using Emory cloth for years. That’s how they taught me to rebuild automatic transmission back when I was in automotive school years ago. Trust me , you are not the first one to criticize my early videos. Automatic transmissions and this pump basically go hand and hand.
@@handymanPF he’s right. You should always look at the bore that the seal will be installed into to and find the largest socket that still has clearance in order to distribute the press evenly. You also should pack the bearing with grease after cleaning everything with brake clean and installing a new seal against it. Thank you for the video!
Where did you get the rebuild kit ? I can't find one anywhere
So you have a video of how to actually remove/install this pump?
Please hit like if this video helped you out in any way. Thanks for watching and GOD bless.
Do you have a tip jar?
Excellent repair video, thanks I have an Ex-Mark poor performing left pump in it. Pump # is 103-1943. While I've found the seal kits sold on-line, where would I acquire and worn mechanical components for the pump itself or even the plate that you ended up replacing?
Joel Horen I usually get the number off the part that is worn if it has one. A swash plate usually has one. If it doesnt here is a link that might have your parts. www.partstree.com/parts/exmark/parts/105-6185/
It might not be your exact mower but the pumps usually are. Here is a link for the hydraulic group. Under the pump its self #20 you will see bunch of different parts like rebuild kit, cylinder block, plate and etc. Those are the separate pieces. Here is that link
www.partstree.com/parts/exmark/mowers-zero-turn-lawn-mower/lazer-z-ac-exmark-lazer-z-air-cooled-zero-turn-mower-sn-440000-509999/hydraulic-group/
I hope this helps. Also if you find the part numbers on any of the parts, Type it in the search bar of amazon or ebay. 9 times out of 10 you will find them. Thanks for watching.