Whirlpool / Kenmore 90 series dryer not getting hot - thermal cutoff fuse repair / replacement
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- čas přidán 17. 12. 2022
- Replaced the thermal cutoff fuse and high temp thermostat on my Kenmore 90 series dryer. The dryer would tumble but would not heat. After testing the original thermal cutoff fuse, there was no continuity, meaning the fuse was in the “blown” or open position, thus preventing the circuit that controls the heating element to be completed.
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Thank you for creating this video. Instead of replacing it or hiring someone else to look at it, you made repairing this model so easy.
My apologies for the delayed response. You are welcome and thank you for watching!
Ours is still blowing warm but not hot, so this isn’t our problem. But thanks for posting this so I know to keep looking!
My parents bought our washer and dryer as a housewarming gift, in November 2000. Seriously I will live with these occasional $15 parts replacements, these things are so easy to work on.
They truly are easy to work on. I have to convince my wife to not buy a new set every time we go into Home Depot or Lowes. I tell her those are $300-400 repairs if a circuit board goes out!
Thanks for watching! TPO&O
What would be the indicators/signs the ELEMENT needs replacing
Can I test thermostat and thermal cut off without taking off the terminals and without having to remove the element housing?
Thanks for this video! It made repairing my dryer easier!
Your welcome!
Hey I just want to thank you for making the best video I've found on this model, all of the other videos say to remove the back panel, so this sure saves a lot of time. 😊😊😊
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!!!
This what makes the CZcams community awesome - helping people.
Thank you very much for the great video. I will be following your detailed steps to fix my dryer that does not heat. I have no doubt you gave the information I need to complete the job.
I really appreciate the comments. Thank you for watching!!
It turned out that my heating element had no continuity. I removed it, got the part number and ordered one for $19. I could see the break in the coil. Thanks again. @MattsGarageMiscDIY
@@user-cy7ui2ky4v awesome! Saving that $$$$. I tell people all the time, to just try and do your own repairs!
This video was very helpful. I have the exact same Dryer. Thank-you so much for posting this video
You’re welcome. Glad to have helped!
Mine was the cycling thermostat. Got it swapped out and things are back to normal. Thanks!
Glad to have helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Just what I needed and I was able to fix the problem.
You are more than welcome!
Thank you for this video. I have the gas model of this dryer but I was able to follow along and fix the problem. God Bless
Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching!
And same to you!
Just repaired it! Thans for the video!
Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching!
This video was exactly what I needed to repair our Kenmore dryer, which had the same problem (blown thermal cutoff fuse) as yours. Many thanks!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this!
You are welcome! Thank you for watching!
Thank you hopefully you can help me out.
Your video was perfect thanks for helping
Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching!
Excellent step by step
Thank you!!
Very helpful thank you!
You are very welcome! This was one of those repairs that was frustrating but finally worked! Thanks for watching.
Thank you Texas you gave me the way to go
You are welcome!
Can you link tomparts list? I have this exact dryer.
I can't get the front door off, I think my clips are broken but I'm not sure how to bypass the clips?
I have the 90s series and want to replace the Thermostat Internal-Bias (3387134). I think it is sometimes referred to as a Cycling Thermostat.
What is the easiest way to access it? I replaced the Thermal Cut-Off, Thermostat, and Heating Element but wasn’t sure about the Internal Bias.
If I remember correctly, mine was located on the heater element housing.
You can check if it’s bad with a VOM, using the ohm setting.
I would guess that to be your culprit. Good luck and thanks for watching.
I pulled the housing out and they had my thermal cutoff connected by a live wire on each prong.
My apologies for the late response. That is never good and is a major safety and fire hazard. Did you happen to correct it?
Hey what’s going on, thank you for your in depth video. I have the same dryer, and Yesterday it stopped working. I pulled it apart thanks to your video, and noticed that the belt snapped. I know you mentioned you replaced it before would you happen to know the part number? Thank you very much. I tried looking and keep getting different ones. Also the belt part number is not eligible.
Sorry for the delayed response. Unfortunately, I’m not sure what the part number is off hand. I guess I really need to start keeping a log of parts I replaced.
Hey Texas - great, informative video! Thanks for doing such a great job on it. It looks like this dryer has tested your resolve, so I am curious if you've had the problem I am having. Got the dryer used and it dried great for 2 loads. After that, it will only roll the drum if the Timer Knob is set below the "Less Dry" line or below the "Touch Up" line and in those settings, the dryer never heats up even with the temperature selector on the highest setting. Also, any setting in the "Air Dry" area just produces a buzzer sound when the start button is pressed and the drum doesn't roll. Any ideas on what could be the issue on this one? Thanks again for your time and effort - much appreciated!
Hey! I would suspect the timer mechanism as the main culprit. If you have a local used appliance person, they may have a “used one” you could swap and test. (I’m fortunate to have A Better Deal appliance and HVAC repair in the Santa Fe, TX area, that has loaned me parts and advice on my repairs).
You easily rule out the element by removing it and checking for continuity between the two connectors.
I would also do the same with the two thermal cutoff fuses.
Doing the above, could rule those three items out m, for the most part.
Good luck and thank you for watching.
@@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors - thanks for the quick reply! We will definitely look into those items. Appreciate your time!
@@user-sy3ku1bw6s I hope it gets you going!
Do you have any tips on removing the back panel? Trying to clean out the lint. Thanks!
Not really anything in particular. It’s been awhile but don’t remember it being too hard to remove/access. Good luck, it’s worth a try.
I replaced the cutoff fuse, thermostat, and heating element with compatible parts from BlueStars. My dryer still does not heat up. (It does tumble.) Do you have any other troubleshooting ideas or "double check this" tips? Your video is great and the whole process is straight forward. I'm also very handy and an excellent problem solver so I'm extremely frustrated that I can't fix the dryer! Please help! Thank you.
Did you try testing or replacing the thermal fuse yet? (ie, the white plastic one he mentions at 2:30) I'm dealing with the same issue as you. (dryer tumbles but does not heat) I did replace the aforementioned thermal fuse because it was the cheapest ($6 on Amazon) and easiest one to access without removing the entire front panel and because it worked to fix the issue in the past, but unfortunately, this time it didn't. Lol I haven't tested or replaced any of the other parts that you've replaced yet. (ie, the cutoff fuse, thermostat, or heating element) but those will be the next thing I try. I was reluctant to remove the entire front door panel like he did, but I guess I'll have to in order to access the other parts. Oh well, I hope this works.
@@mkmstillstackin I replaced 5 parts in total. The thermostat, cycling thermostat (I think that's what it's called. I'm actually terribly confused by the names some of the pieces), thermal fuse, thermal fuse cut off, and heating element. Turns out, there was a problem with my electricity (caused by contractor crap) and my dryer was never even broken. I'm annoyed at the hours and hours I spent researching and trying to fix it but my dryer should be good to go for another 15 years and I learned a lot!
Depending on your dryer, everything should be accessible by removing the front of machine. For me, the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are located under the drum and very hard to access without removing the drum. I gave it a shot though and was able to do it.
Figuring out part compatibility was actually the hardest part. I have a 90 series Maytag. These are the parts I purchased:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8F53H4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Z4QXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (becayse thermal fuse in 4 part kit wasn't compatible)
www.amazon.com/dp/B07P734P1R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I hope that helps.
@@BiTemeeDurgtai Thank you for that update! So happy to hear you were able to get to the root of your problem and get your dryer working again! Indeed, the various terms are confusing. I was able to access and test my igniter, which was good, but that was about it. My other parts were just too hard to access without removing the drum, which I refuse to do. So, I think I'm going to move on and get another machine. Lol Oh well, at least I gave it a shot.🙂 Congrats to you again! This was, indeed educational.
I replaced the fuse on the heater coils housing and went to put the wiring back in place they came undone and I don't know what wire goes where; help please 😭😭😭
You will need to look at your wiring schematic. Mine was under the control panel folded up.
Please don’t try to guess because it could cause a fire.
I need your help. I am up here in communist Canada and my Kenmore 90 series dryer is not starting. I first checked the circuit breaker and it’s fine. I noticed the door switch was no longing clicking and just dangling and the light in dryer would not come on when I opened it. So I replaced it. Dryer still would not start.
Not sure if this means anything but there was a time for a few years that the dryer would continue to spin when the door was kept open and there was no light that came on.
I tested the thermal fuse with multimeter and it was unclear so I replaced it and still the dryer would not start.
I tested the start button and it is working. Is it fair to assume the terminal/electrical port is fine bc the light comes in when I open the door so there is power to the dryer? What else is it likely?
Before I open it all up, is there a way to test if the belt is fine bc I can spin the dryer with my hands from the inside. I am afraid if I remove the drum that I will not be able to put it back on. What else can I test, or it could possibly be?
Thanks for this video👍 I have the same dryer with the same problem I have a few questions does it matter which way the red and black cables go? My red and black cables on the thermostat are in the same position as yours but the ones on the thermal cutoff aren't the black is on top and red on bottom I have a picture of when I took it off just incase I forgot is this an issue or is it ok? I sort of bent the tab on the black cable for the thermal cutoff to replace that I would just get another black cable and replace it on the thermostat and thermal cutoff right?
Lookin at the schematic, it shouldn’t matter, as both the thermal cut off and thermostat are simply a “switch”.
Also, I will putting up a video soon about “resetting” the thermal cut off. You can actually slam the cut off on the counter or floor and it will reset it. And yes, if it overheats again, it will trip.
Since I didn’t discover this neat little trick, I will credit another CZcamsr on my video.
Yes, you can replace the black wire with a similar sized wire and crimp the appropriate sized spades on the end.
@Texas Patriot Off-Road and Outdoors Thank you for the reply I ended up having to slam mine on the ground to reset it since store's weren't open because of Christmas and it actually got my dryer heating again. I think the reason why mine tripped out was I had something blocking the dryer vent
@@rodm2345 I’m glad to hear you got it going! Usually a blockage in the vent is the culprit!
As a reminder, I wouldn’t leave the dryer running while you are gone from the house or at tonight while asleep, especially with the “reset” thermal fuse.
Mine has been working flawless since my “reset” but I’m still cautious with it.
Cody
@Texas Patriot Off-Road and Outdoors Well actually I don't think it worked I got a call saying clothes wasn't drying got home from work tested the parts for continuity everything checked off except the new thermal cutoff I removed the new one again and reset it tested it and got continuity replaced it watched the coils they started to glow but then 1-2 minutes after they shutoff so I have no clue what to do now I've been asking around and some say it might be the heating element
Note this is for the electric dryer?
@@patriciahamilton57 Yes it is. However, due to having some electrical circuits, I believe gas dryers may have some thermal cut offs as well!
Howdy Texas! My dryer was having the same problem, I got it all taken apart, and holy cow there was an inch or more of lint all over the place. It was like there was snowstorm in there! lol. It probably hasn't been cleaned since it was purchased! I have a different set up as yours, as mine is propane and not electric, so I am stuck as to how to check the thermal fuse and how to access that. Can I send you a photo somehow and maybe get some further coaching? I've gone too far down the rabbit hole to give up now! Thanks for the great DIY video!
Howdy to you. What make model and approximate year is your dryer?
@@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors I was able to figure it out from this video from Karen. czcams.com/video/VxjoloPERug/video.htmlsi=QHSy5kzW3n_b-0kn
It ended up being the thermal fuse.
Kenmore 90 Series #77902791
Thermal Fuse Part #3390719
@@agrohippiechick awesome! I just watched that video as well, thank you for the link! Also, thank you for watching my video as well!!!
My thermal cutoff is tripping. Cleaned the vent spotless, tore apart the dryer and cleaned it. Even when vent isn't connected. I replaced the thermal cutoff and it's still tripping. If I short the wires at the high cutoff, the flame stays on. Can the flame get too hot? Any ideas?
If the element gets too hot and can/will cut off. If you’ve replaced both the thermal cutoff and fuse, you may try replacing the element - especially if you’ve cleaned all the duct work etc and it’s still giving you issues.
I caution you not to bypass the thermal cutoff or fuse circuit, other than for testing purposes. They are “tripping” for a reason and I wouldn’t want to run the dryer like that because of risk of fire.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
TPO&O
@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors I only bypasses to test. I got an infrared thermometer. The original was going open at 115F. The replacement high cut off was going open around 105... it was defective. I got a 2nd new one local and it stays closed and runs around 180F. The top of the metal housing got up to 207F max. That defective thermal cutoff had me running in circles. It's all good now.
@@fixitrod4969 i should have told you to grab an infrared thermometer, they are invaluable! Glad you got it figured out!
What’s part number on heating element
3387747 is the Kenmore part number for my dryer. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful video…..but those four parts all test good on my dryer, but it doesn’t heat up AT ALL.😮
Have you checked for 220v to the element?
Yes. Checked. Pretty sure the problem is in the timer switch. Thnx for a very helpful video for a girl 🤪
@@darren1444 hey, glad to see you giving it a go!!!
Where to get parta for Drier
I generally use Amazon
SMACK THE SWITCH ON A HARD SURFACE AND IT WILL POP BACK CLOSED,80% OF THE TIME.
I have tried and it does work! Was about to post a short on that!
Yes sir that's exactly what I need is those three units there
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
You know... I think... it's pretty f'ing ridiculous... companies like this make it so you have to spend an hour removing panels... just to replace a fuse... that is designed to be replaced. Wtf...
Thanks for the video.
I often wonder what goes through the heads of engineers - especially those in the automotive industry. It’s like they design things and have an unrealistic expectation that they won’t break. Another reason is that it forces the average Joe or Jill to bring their vehicle to a “Stealership” for said repair.
@@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors heh, or otherwise they just enjoy torturing other engineers.
Caution: If you find you have to replace your heating element, make sure none of the bare element wires are touching the housing! Obvious in hindsight but I did not check it, so blew a fuse.
Makes sense! Thanks for sharing!
I can't support any of those words. Texas, Patriot
Ok. That’s the beauty of our U.S. Constitution - and Country itself - the right to freedom of speech, among others.
Regardless, hopefully my videos may provide assistance to you one day.
Take care,
TPO&O