Turning big stuff on a small metal lathe
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- čas přidán 2. 12. 2021
- I had to machine the ends of a go-kart axle that would not fit through my spindle bar. This video demonstrates one of several ways a stead rest can drastically increase the capacity of your small lathe.
Your instructions were clear and concise without music background. That's what instructional videos should be! Thank You!! JD
THANKS! And I know what you mean about music. I like it if you are just watching the machine do work but having it in the background while you are talking is annoying.
Thankful for your problem solving skills. We are not making parts for rocket ships in the home shops and your solutions prove that you don't always need lots of high dollar machines to get the job done.
Your welcome. Yes, most people can't justify the space and cost of a large lathe, myself included.
Using a steady rest... and an unsteady rest!
An anti flopper ?
Great job Winky. I wish I had you for a neighbor. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you! 🤗
That was another good one. You remind us that not everyone has all the machines and all the accessories for any/all situations. You can get your work done if you think it through and proceed carefully. Thanks for representing the everyman’s home shop. 🥸👍
Very true! Thanks
Nice little job for you, Mark. Keeps ya out of trouble. I think a light knurling would've snugged up that slightly loose fitting hub.
That's a good idea!
Thank you for the detailed look at threading. I've seen many tutorials, always great to see a fresh view. I pulled another good tip from one of your videos!
I need to do a good thread cutting video. Billy (KnoxMachining) uses 3 cameras which is what I need to do for a good thread cutting video. Thanks
Thanks Winky, there's almost a case there for having two steady rests! :) Good tips. Thanks
Yeah no kidding. I thought about making an adjustable wood steady rest. HA!
I love the way you work. " Where there's a Winky, there's a way!" I have to go out and see if I can find your build on the steady rest you use in this vid. It's a pleasure to watch the things you have built actually being used in your projects the bill the process and the expansion of capabilities without the great expense of buying more complex equipment.
" Where there's a Winky, there's a way!" I like that! Haha. That steady rest works well but I may make another one at some point. The fingers are a little tricky to get adjusted right.
Necessity is the mother of invention. Great job on figuring out the setup.
Thanks, yeah, quick and easy!
Good day, you gave me some great ideas for problems I do have. Thank you, this was one of the most informing video's which I watched in problem solving on a mini lathe in a long time.
Thanks! It would be nice to have a larger lathe but you can do an amazing amount on a small lathe, you just have to get creative.
Mark an old Gunsmith trick when using a steady is to take a piece of emery cloth long enough to wrap around the shaft plus 1/2" overlap. Add a few drops of oil to the shaft then wrap it around the shaft with the smooth side towards the shaft and the grit side touching the fingers on the steady. The oil and the emery cloth act as a bushing between the fingers and the shaft and the grit touching the fingers prevents the cloth from spinning. This prevents marking of the shaft and also prevents wear on the fingers. I am certainly glad to see you using the wooden support. 50 years ago, a man i knew son got killed by a shaft that bent in the lathe he was running, and it beat him to death.
Thanks Terry, I'll keep that in mind for the future.
A little grease on the wood block support would help keep it quiet. Years ago line shafts used greased wood bearing blocks. Ok for slower turning shafts.
Just a thought, instead of a test nut using thread gauge wires would have saved a setup.
Yeah... i didn't show it but I had tons of oil on both the wood and rest. The wood was bowing the bar down. I fixed it on the second end.
love this video, thanks Mr Winky, cheers from Florida, Paul
Thanks Paul, Glad you enjoyed it
I like your shop made steady rest. I'm on the verge of embarking on making one for my lathe as well. I like having the larger diameter as well.
Thanks for sharing.
Your welcome.
Great clip, did exactly the same myself some years ago now, even cut my keyway for the drive sprocket on the lathe with a fly cutter set up in the tool post driven by my wife's old cake mixer. My wee Boxford has done some pretty big jobs haha and still keeps going. Such a great reminder thanks again.
Thanks! I looked at a boxford lathe several month ago. It was a little smaller but built very well.
That was a pretty clever trick with using the steady rest👌 Thank you for sharing that idea🙂
No problem 👍
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing this valuable information!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Lot of great things in this video mark thanks for sharing i think many should know how to do an axle too.
Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!
Hey, it works! You've shown lots of good ways over the last few years of making your equipment punch above its weight class. Hope you and yours have a great new year ahead of you!
Ha... Yeah, that's a good way to put it. Thanks!
There's more than one way to skin a cat, great setup winky..
Yeah... maybe a bigger lathe... Ha, Thanks.
Great job there Winky. Thanks for the video.
Thank you too!
Thank you sir for this great video and right on time, i'm needing to machine down some shaft stock myself just was'nt sure how to go about it.
Very welcome. I had to think about this for a while but it worked great.
Thanks for another great video with tips on how to secure an overhung shaft. That squeal is probably coming from your steady rest that needs a drop of oil.
Your welcome, Thanks for watching. The wood rest was pushing down slightly on the bar. I had a ton of oil on both.
I sooooo love these one off head scratching jobs my friend. Having a piece wrap that was sticking out too far is a damned scary time. I have had it happen a couple times. Wide rubber bands with wide zip ties work well with lessening shaft vibrations. Bear auto alignment has great belts to wrap around small and large drums that really work well and are sure work great for reducing chatter. You need to visit them.
Yeah... I had a bar get away from me one time. Scare the hell out me!
@@WinkysWorkshop Mine was a 6 ft pc of 1/4 inch rod I was single point threading a bunch of pieces from the long bar to save on waste. It was on a friends lathe and not knowing it very well shifted it to a higher gear and promptly put a 90 deg bend out the back of the headstock. Just like you said above here both of us got a boost in blood pressure.
@@TomokosEnterprize Yep, that will do it!
@@TomokosEnterprize It’s happened to me also. Not only scary but very dangerous. That whipping piece will kill or seriously injure anyone it hits.
A touch of oil when cutting threads in steel improves the surface finish. Otherwise, nice video and thanks for the wood steady rest at the end. Nice workaround.
Thanks and I agree... maybe I didn't show it but I used oil for the last few passes.
congratulations on the work! I liked seeing the idea of wood.
Thank you very much! It was a quick easy fix and some added insurance.
Winky, I'm sure you wanted an interference fit on those end caps. When you discovered that one was and the other end wasn't you kept your cool and commented with LockTite fix. I would have probably gone into one of my more colorful rants! :-) Wakodahatchee Chris
I'll have to admit that I was pleased when one end piece fit tight. At first I thought I screwed up and made one end of my axle too small. Realistically, it may not be ideal but the axle will probably outlast the go-kart anyway. It's not in the best shape overall.
I Use my parting tool all the time to machine with they work great on brass you get a nice finish.
Yes I agree, they work great!
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes they do indeed, Hows the nylon gears going?
@@WayneCook306 So far, perfect.
Creative as usual Winky 👍🏻
Thanks Don! I hope all is well.
@@WinkysWorkshop All is well thanks
I really like this guy he has a lot of good projects
Thanks Steve
Very creative adaptation of undersized lathe and oversized job.
Quick and easy... thanks!
Spindle bore was #2 requirement when I was lathe shopping.
Yeah... it can't really be too big. But then again... space, money and logic have to enter the picture.
@@WinkysWorkshop I settled on 1.5" on a 9" swing
thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
Gday Winky, there’s always a way around a problem, well mostly always, I wonder how an old bearing would go in the piece of wood, great job mate, Cheers
Thanks Matty!
The wood was just to stop it from jumping around. Skewing the wood adjusts the fit
Very clever putting the shaft backward in the lathe to get the job done. I imagine, if you made both shaft ends the same and one flange fits fair and the other loose, that loose one probably fretted around on the old shaft. The flanges are rather beefy, perhaps you can cross drill and add set screws to fix that looser one hard to the shaft? Between that and a nice tight key, it could last a while.
Yeah tighter would have been ideal and yes it was one hub that was oversize. I put a little green Loctite on the shaft but I suspect it would be fine anyway. I'm guessing it will outlast the go-cart, it wasn't in the best shape. Thanks for watching
Winky -- On the end that's slightly loose -- you could knurl the diameter , turn it to fit . Nice work
Yep... I probably should have but I suspect it will last longer than the go-kart anyway. Thanks and thanks for watching.
that was very creative!
Thanks, it seemed to work very well.
BMI Karts. I build karts and Mini bikes as a hobby . when I get time to do it. 1" x 36" Steel Live Axle with 1/4" Keyway around 36.00
This one was about 40" long. The Kart saw Ken-Bar on it. 6HP
Nice build/tip
Thank you sir!
Well thought-out and nicely done. You did a very precise machining job on the axle but unfortunately the wheel bearings weren't manufactured with the same level of care. How was the keyway cut?
Thanks, I have a mill and used a 1/4" end mill to cut the keyways.
The bigger hub ought to shrink if you go around it a few times with the welder. I liked the nut on the shaft idea :o)
I thought about putting a knurl on the shaft too but in the end I just left it. The shaft also has a key it. I suspect it will last the life of the go-kart.
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, it isn’t driving interstate :o)
@@teamidris - yep... slow RPM and has a 3/4" nut and lock washer torqued fairly high. I doubt it will ever move.
Good stuff
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks!
No left-hand, right-hand threads? I missed it - are the hubs keyed?
I like your use of wood as a one-time solution for something that may come up 3 times in the life of the machinist.
Both RH threads, Yes, the hubs have a key I didn;t show cutting the key wasys. Thanks on the wood. I agree, quick and easy and served the purpose.
good video winkys
Thank you sir!
I was expecting to see you use your cutoff tool that had the stiff arm made to it. I wonder if that would have helped with the charred.
I no longer have that. I sold it with my Logan lathe. For cut off work I use a direct mount blade now. The cut off tool with the support worked but not as well as my direct mount tool. Thanks for watching.
czcams.com/video/HGAQHjzgs9c/video.html
Nice job 👍
Thank Kevin, how's the 200 doing?
Doing good, got a little problem with a stuck chuck at the moment, but, I have a plan
@@kevinunderwood2931 - Be careful not to break a gear. I wonder why it stuck? Here's a suggestion. Clamp some hex stock in the chuck and put a wrench on it. Then put a strap wrench around the spindle pulley. I'd say most gears get broken removing stuck chucks. After you get it off put anti seize on the threads.
@@WinkysWorkshop I think it’s stuck because I didn’t use anti seize on that new chuck I bought…I knew better. The method you described is what I’m going to do. I’ve got a Rigid brand strap wrench with a 30inch strap for the spindle pulley. I’ll have plenty of leverage.
@@kevinunderwood2931 - I never use anti seize but have some chucks that are a little tight so I probably need to.
well done
More than one way to skin the cat huh?
I have a parting tool like that, I never thought that you could turn to size with it. At some point would too deep a cut cause the insert to come out? Edit: I didn't listen long enough, you covered my question that it is designed to cut laterally. I didn't know that.
Yes, I love this insert but yes, if you try to push it too much it comes loose.
Great job! Next project, a follower rest? I don't have one either, but I understand that is the purpose of having both a steady and follower.
What are your fingers for the steady made from?
I had the same thought. Making a follower rest is one challenge. Mounting it on the round surfaces of a South Bend lathe is another challenge. I have both follower rest and steady rest for my Grizzly lathe. I have used the steady rest but have not needed to use the follower rest yet. Machining a long piece like this would be a good use of both rests.
Dave.
Yes a follow rest is needed. The fingers are mild steel. I think brass would be better (or rollers)
Agree. I need to make one
Thanks for this interesting video. Well done!
The way of "calibrating" the steady at time 02:20 was new to me. never seen before but it must be clever I think. Assuming the bed is in order, being straight, levelled etc...
Time 07:30. That "flying around" at the end of the bar will cause a bend between the steady and the chuck. Read about the Euler bend, brake cases.... Good descision. Primitive and brutal cure but I buy it.
Why making "impacts" to the bar and then bringing up the thread gauge? Why not put an indicator to the carriage, engage the lock nut, turning the chuck one revolution and measure?
Time 18:15. That filing often makes the nut go fine. Better then making one more pass threading?
Cheers.
Thanks for the in depth comment. The scratch pass and thread gauge were just a double check. I was fairly certain my quick change was set right. And yes, after supporting the stock the metal cut much smoother. As for my method of setting up the steady rest... I know of no other way on a bar that long. The weight of the bar would make it sag and wobble. The bed on my lathe is worn several thousands I'm sure and there is was no doubt a slight bow to the bar but all the machining was taking place close to the chuck. I doubt there would be any measurable error if the bed was worn .030". I guess i could have put an indicator on the carriage and checked that the tool post was parallels with the bar. And i would have if I was machining near the steady rest.
@@WinkysWorkshop As far as I can see You did an excellent job on a very speciell task!
@@Stefan_Boerjesson Thank you sir
@@WinkysWorkshop I think I've seen, in traditional centering, the steady placed near the tail stock and indicators used center the steady. I suppose checking for no taper. Maybe hard with a not perfect axle surface.
Wink do you have a link for your accordian oiler? shown around 16:37
I have no idea where I got that but it's been a good one. I'm guessing it's 30 years old. Your description however brought it up on Amazon! amzn.to/3CEwM1P
Excellent video.... Have you ever turned small stuff?? I need to make a replacement shaft for my Dumore #14 Tom Thumb. I've been putting it off because it's making me extremely nervous turning such a small diameter shaft with fine threads. I saw your collet chuck video and was considering that but was wondering if I could turn between centers....
Yes you can turn between centers with the collets. For really small diameters you need a lathe that has high speeds.
@@WinkysWorkshop Understood, The Dumore shaft appears to be 3/8" 3-4 SS with the bearing ends turned to .250 +/- .002 What would you recommend for a speed?
@@thomasriddle3370 Stainless is hard to turn. For 3/8" steel the RPM should be 1600 and 3/4 about 1000. For stainless it's about 30% slower
Hey Mark... is there a reason why you go back to "0" on the cross-slide, but advance the compound for the successive thread cuts?
Yes, there are a few reasons for this. First, advancing the compound puts a load on the lead screw in the direction the carriage travels. The cutter only cuts on the left side. Advancing with the cross slide would make the cutter cut on both sides which can result in the threads from a previous pass controlling the carriage movement. The second reason is chatter and tool load. Advancing with the compound makes the tool cut only on the left side. While making the last few passes on larger threads the surface area being cut is substantial. Advancing with the cross slide would make the tool cut on both sides and double the load. I have seen people cut by going straight in but I have better luck advancing with the compound.
5:00 Do you not have a travelling steady as well?
I plan to make one at some point
Isn't that a parting tool? And a couple of minutes later you answered my question...I think. It sure looks like a parting tool but it's either not or it's both for parting and cutting laterally?
That is called a Parting and Grooving Tool. It has a GTN2 (2mm) but you can get them in 1mm and 3mm also. It's advertised as being able to cut lateraling as well as straight in. It is one of the handiest tools I have. You can't take more than about .040" at a time but it's great for cutting against two shoulders. I think the best aspect however is that whatever depth you dial in, you get. If I need something .010" smaller you can move the cross slide dial that amount and most often it's dead on.
Bravo
Thanks... a bit squeaky but it worked well!
Nice
Thanks
How about measuring the thread with wires, no nut needed!
Yeah... I've done that a few time. The nut works great and it's way easier.
Hi Winky Are you sure that one of the axle threads was not a left hand thread?
For sure they were both RH. LH might be a good idea but I got them good and tight.
Nice job,steel prices have gone up like crazy over the last year I recycle a lot of car parts great steel from older cars 60s-80s after that it’s monkey metal but it’s free 😂
I get my steel all over the place but most definitely use old steel when I can.
In the big scheme of things, that wasn't a particularly dodgy setup you were using there. I've seen (And occasionally, been the architect of) some truly frightening "Unorthodox work holding techniques" over the years...... One that springs to mind included the use of bit's of angle iron and a shed load of zip ties on a long thin workpiece to brace it and cut down the risk of the unsupported section flapping around too much !!! :D. I also once saw an old 6" swing lathe that had been "Modified" with several stacks of 1" sheet steel to move the head and tailstock up and back enough so that it could spin up to 20" alloy wheels. The tool post had a seriously Heath Robinson setup to raise the tool up about 6" too. The owner told me that his garage had a couple sets of car wheels to weld/refinish and wasn't going to spend big money buying a bigger lathe just to do those. Surprisingly, it apparently worked fine like that with no more chatter than it had before. I wish I'd took some pictures of that one. :D
As a friend used to say, "When the works got to be done, and you don't have the exact work holding setup you need, it's sometime neccecery to send the health and safety guy out to do some errands off site, just so he doesn't have to see anything that might spike his blood pressure" :D
It was a quick fix bot totally adequate. I've seen "dodgy" for sure. That 20 inch lathe sounds crazy!
Ah I see the squeak was in the wood!
Yeah... the wood was putting downward pressure on the bar.
Metric?
I can't remember, probably not.
Try putting some oil on the steady rest contact points
I didn't show it but i had tons of oil on it. The wood support was pushing down in the bar. When i cut the other end I fixed it.
Often a farm implement dealer stocks larger nuts and bolts.
I got the nuts at TSC. They didn't have 7/8". I'm sure I could have found them somewhere but 3/4" is plenty large enough.
You need to make a follower rest.
This worked well once the end of the bar stopped flopping around but I agree.
Ah, "made in Germany clamps". What should we do without them :-)
Hey there... these were Pony clamps. Maybe German but I thought they were US made. But yeah... very handy!
13:35 Why not let it reduce all diameters wi this cut - then you'll have less to take off the smaller diameters when you get to those !
I thought about that too after the fact. Good observation.
Always thinking on how to skin a cat!
This cat has no skin! Ha