Riden RD6018 Power Supply Review II 60Volts, 18Amps
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- In-depth review of this powerful powersupply
Order custom PCBs from jlcpcb.com/DYE 5Pcs from as little as $2
For my capacitor mod, I used a 100Volt (or higher) 100nF Polyester film capacitor.
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0:00 Intro
0:53 Ad
1:37 Assembly
7:06 User interface
9:20 Testing Volt Accuracy
10:22 Charging a battery
12:51 Oscilloscope Testing
16:09 Connecting Smart Phone
17:45 Capacitor mod
19:38 Conclusion
Schematix
All information provided in this video is for educational purposes only.
If you attempt to recreate/replicate anything you’ve seen in this video, you’re doing so at your own risk.
Love to see a tear down of your DIY load. Oh, and I think I saw one of the cows show an interest to the PCBs, I think they may have found themselves in a paddock full of cow wanting to make PCB's
It would be useful to check if the spikes would be reduced by coupling the 100nF capacitor directly on the output of the PSU block, meaning BEFORE power flows through the RD6018 PCB. In case the spikes come from the PSU, this modification would help reduce any electronic stress that the RD6018 is imposed upon.
Another CZcamsr actually changed the PSU to a very expensive programmable PSU to test if the "noise" was the PSU or the RD itself, it is the RD device.
@@JohanlastZa are you talking about eevblog? I believe he found out he was incorrectly terminating the probe or wasn't using it on 10x
I would crimp the cables for the screw in terminal, I always do that at my electronic builds and it is more safe, because no strains of the cable can come out :) but the rest is very nice! I build a comparable power supply fron an atx supply, it works very nice and i payed about 20-30€, the main points were the Hirschmann banana socket haha :D but they just work better
Good video. I have just built myself a unit using a RD6006. Linear, using a TRF 100VA Haven't checked the ripple etc yet. Will do tonight. So far very impressed with it. Graham, Bundaberg.
good
Excellent presentation!
Great review, thank you.
Love my RD6018W
It's limited atm due to the power supply but I've got the Huawei R4850G2 with the rectifier plug, CAN module etc waiting to be setup.
It's overkill but will allow multiple other buck/boost controllers to run alongside the RD6018W from a single psu
Nice review. Worthy of more views.
Fiiinaaaaally! Someone who shows yankee degrees and celcius in one shot. Thank you!
Did you have a video about your DIY load from the heater? I can't seem to find it. Or is it a future video.... ;)
Glad you enjoyed it :) I was filming a video on my DIY load tester however, there was a couple things I'd do differently to make the conversion cleaner. I'm planning on having another attempt soon
Thanks this was most helpful. Considering one to power an amateur AM transmitter. Would need 60v at 5A peaking with modulation to 15A. I think the ripple will be a problem in that it will modulate the carrier but prepared to try it, and experiment with an external hefty DC LC filter. Question, did you see any interlock or accessible control access points that could be used to shut down power in the event if a detected fault in the powered equipment? This may be the purchase-stopper for me! Thanks!
Greetings from Germany: useful video, thanks!
Great video. Thanks
Great video series! Is the psu supplied by Riden (S800 or the 1000W) isolated from the mains? Planning to use this as my new bench power supply.
The graphing feature on the app is really neat, except you can't stop the data update as it's in operation, so trying to zoom in on an earlier portion of the graph is impossible because it'll keep auto zooming. You need to stop and disconnect before it lets you look at the charting in fine detail.
One hint when you are zooming in and out to look at the details: if you want to pan up and down, you first need to start panning sideways and then you'll be able to pan up and down from there. A bit strange that you can't start panning vertically right away, but it works well.
It lets you zoom in to the single second capture intervals down to one lsb.
12:44 A few days ago, they released an update that adds the option to disable charging after exceeding a predefined temperature
My custom firmware have that option, and many many other functions and options...
You can click on my avatar and under the last video you will see links to the forums and a link to the full manual "RD6006, RD6012, RD6018, RD6006P DC Power Supplies with Custom Firmware by UniSoft"
Thank you for your video, I'd be interested to know how this compares to a DPS5020 with a smoothed transformer based psu.
Good job!!
I like your dummy load, great idea
the power supply cord is not included, you have to source that yourself; the coin battery is not included, also must buy separately; the leads also need to be bought separately or use some from your other meters possibly; a DIY person can make some slightly heavier leads for battery charging... the Riden 6018 assembles fairly easily and I used it a lot for battery charging and it shuts down as the battery gets to your pre-set charge level as one would want it to....I assembled and top balanced many LiFePO4 cells in 272ah and 280ah varieties prior to assembling them into 24-volt nominal batteries in 2P8S and 4P8S configuration for solar PV-generated electrical storage....so my primary use is actually precise top balancing of the LiFePO4 cells to 3.55 volts before battery assembly and the Riden worked great... just 2 days ago, I charged a 2P8S assembled battery from 19% SOC to 32 percent SOC via an inverter connected to another 2P8S battery all done off-grid.... the Riden 6018 was charging at 17 amps and slightly over 400 watts into the 544ah 24-volt battery without any issues....as it charges on constant voltage the amps output will go down as it gets closer to the desired top charge you set...it works great...(the Riden 6018) for battery charging...
Be good to see these tests with a linear/transformer powering the RD6018W
They are amazing.!!!!
it is great work, you test many things, and it is good , for temeperature sensor , it is just to measure temeperature for now , because we did not finish the all function ,in fact , it is to work with charging battery . for ripple test, we have our standard test in our video channel . anyway, thank you for your work
Why just not cooperate and create the firmware together?
drive.google.com/file/d/1FKAXFBIbRVujsal-6V2Ta0ogtcvQAIPd/view
Hi mate great review! I own the 8 amp version from 2018 and has never let me down.
Have you considered checking if the output ripples persist even when powering the Riden from a cleaner power source like a battery pack?
Nice product
Great video - thank you VERY much! My power supply came with a resistor to fit across one of the +ve and -ve outputs to improve the high frequency noise - I think it's a 5.2K Ohms resistor. Have you tried this and seen whether it helps on your setup?
Mine doesnt have any output ripple I made my own 5k resistor tho and it doesnt change anything. output ripple on the RD stays the same. Even adding a filter capacitor to the input psu doesnt make a diffrence Its the RD itself I suppose
@@legobuildingsrewiew7538 The manufacturer states the RD6018 version does not require the resistor...using their recommended PSU. (the PSU matched to mine was model XJ-S1000W-68V. However, note that the specs also show the output ripple of the RD6012 and RD6018 are inherently higher than the RD6006. I don't have info on the RD6024 ripple.
Output ripple typical
RD6006 100mV VPP
RD6012/18 250mV VPP@6A
These came from user manual
"Model: RD6006/RD6006W/ RD6012/RD6012WRD6018/RD6018W"
page 4, dated: Date: 2020.9.14
Thanks alot
I will say, the assembly on this looks about a thousand times easier than on the DPS5020 I purchased. I was able to pull that off in a satisfactory way, but not following the factory instructions, hahah.
yes, it is easyer now , because improve that to let it easy, don't use solder , just screw , it is be ok
DPS5020 is old products, there are not many experience
so sorry for that
*Assembly took about 20 minutes* after first reviewing the kit assembly manual. "Digital power supply case (S800) assembly instruction" date 2020.7.24, and a once through the assembly video:
"Best Bench Power Supply | RD6018W Power Supply | How to Assemble | RD6018 RD6012 RD6006 | 2022" at youtube v=RCPv95t-V8o
Suggestions:
Be slow and careful when initially setting the machine screws or one can rather easily end up with tilted screws, esp on the PSU mounting screws (5 in my case).
One should also be careful when inserting the pre-tinned +V and -V wire ends into the screw-points of the green connector block of the control unit. In my kit, the insulation was trimmed such that the 4 wires can be inserted too far and interfere with proper connection between the wire and the connector contact point.
If you're going to use the external thermal sensor, install the "Temperature sensor
extension board" before you mount the PSU. I installed mine such that the wire from the socket "board" points up and the extension wire runs OVER the top of the PSU case once mounted. That method provides more working slack in the extension wire for routing purposes, and allowed me to keep the sensor wiring far from the AC power lines. I taped the wire to the top of the PSU's solid metal case once it was mounted. I've seen some videos where people install the board with the wire pointing down toward the bottom of the case.
Screw terminals should not be used with stranded wires barely or soldered, you should use a wire end crimp for this purpose. If not, connection can get loose over time and generate resistance and thus heat! The RD6018 looks promising and it is probably very efficient - did you test efficiency and ripple on loaded output?
Nice mate, another piecce of impressive tech for the lab, still like my linier programble Power supply. but its a heavy beast with a massive transformer so its not something that you can move around easily,
Kinda wish they had used a blue pole for the battery connection as somebodies bound to think its an earth and blow the thing up.
thank you for your suggestion
@@rdtech9153 Yes this is what I was thinking too. Use a blue pole for battery charging, add temperature protection & please add earth ground green banana jack for earthing. So totally 4 banana plugs at front. Also note that the main concern of most buyers are the transients & ripple. The output needs to be smoothed more.
@@therealb888 for now we have finished the RD series, we will change that if we make new series power supply later
There is another version with 60V at 24A. That is a monster!
hope you like that
You - and to be fair - the other reviewers are measuring high frequency transients wrong on the scope. You are using the ground clip on the scope probe, when you really need to be measuring using the spring clip which will eliminate inductance of the ground clip wire. This needs to be done at the load.
I wonder what would happen to the ripple if you bypassed the internal switch mode power supply.
I have the same model but have two issues
1. The power resistor 5k, 1 W, which came with my power supply (65 v, 13 A), gets pretty hot. Is this normal?for 65v it should draw less than 1 W, right?
2. Is the option to remove i-set? Instead of setting constant current, just let the circuit draw current it needs?
Thanks for the review. Great presentation 👏
if i use the red post it shows a higher voltage then just batt but not enough to be the one i set to charge the batt but it puts no amps in.
The spikes might not seem much with a high voltage, but what about applications of low voltages? can that micro spikes cause devices to break?
Hi, I have wi-fi problem,
when I turn on my RD6018. in the "wifi conf" the screen shows the password of my router NOT the IP address,
then after Error...can you tell me why?
What do you think about the soldering in the 100nF capacitor into the RD6006 to lower the ripple? If yes, in what place?
If only there was a 135V 12A version of that, could have saved a few hundred on a battery charger. I suppose if you need a really clean supply a pi-filter could be added to the output to get rid of most those spikes and the 50Hz stuff too. Dunno why that wasn't part of the design and simply charged a few $ more. Still, my current ones are just 30V 10A. I'll probaly just get a front end and build my own input supply with a 1kVA 48V transformer I happen to have on hand (a 1kVA Antec toroid with 48vac out). Heavier but I don't plan on moving it much anyway.
Wow you have a 1kva 48V at home? That's so beafy. Hey do you plan on doing videos on your build? Or may be blog/forum posts at least?.
@@therealb888 I plan to start a new channel and maybe a Patreon when I have enough content to do maybe weekly or at least monthly uploads. 1kVA really is not that much, though probably overkill for most common 30-60V benchwork. Several years ago (and still sees occassional use) I built a 0-500v 30A AC/DC supply from 2x 5kVA variacs in series with a pi-filter that runs on a 240V 30A mains circuit. It's mostly used for relatively low power testing of some of my nuttier projects that you really don't want to fail at full power, instead of just magic smoke a shotgun-blast-level bang along with molten copper and silicon flying at lethal speeds is the usual result.
A project I have on the drawing board (that may get built in a few years, it's very expensive, first thing I need is a $5k 3D printer) is a 150kW/300kVA plasma speaker (basically a class D audio amp on steroids that runs a step up transformer instead of an 8ohm speaker). With power draws that large battery banks or dedicated 3-phase generators are the way to go, with a buck-boost converter for control (120VDC in from 32s lipo packs in parallel, 12-150VDC and 10-2000A out) = rock concert loud at full power and good bass response since the arc is 12-15 feet long (1200kV, 250mA).
In the new Firmware Temp Conttoll is available.
my unit if i use the green post turns on volts start to ramp up i hear the power supply click, but then quickly turns off then the red batt light goes blue and green on\off button goes dark. any ideas?
I personnaly remove the switching power suplly inside to put a traditional linear power supply. ( Transformer, rectifier and big capacitor). Now the ripples and spikes are almost gone.
good
Switching measured is from the step down converter, not PSU. Linear stage step down is gonna smooth it way down. See RD6006S
I have never run my RD6006 more than 3 amps, but I only use it for rebuilding old VTVMs.
I can’t imagine how anyone would be using 12, 18 or even 24 amps.
What use would require such high amperes?
Mostly for charghing RC batteries, but also for powering projects with beefy DC motors. I chose the 6018 specifically because of the current carrying capacity. I will have it paired with a 715W PSU that can deliver almost 13 amps at 56V, which is why the 6012 wouldn't have worked.
Merci
Please correct me if I'm wrong. We got double power loss bcos this is SMPS behind SMPS. So if first SMPS power delivery have 85% efficiency, so the second power/voltage admin transforming second time DC to DC. And if it could have 85% efficiency as well - in total we have 70% efficiency - it is not?
Good observation. Every conversion step however negligible will have losses but that's the same for any variable PS. In fact this law holds for any forms of energy conversion.
Can you post a link in the description of the one that you put on your post
Would the spikes help in desulfating automotive battery while charging ?
Actually the psu has ripple output, i use the RD6024 and its low riple about 20mVPP
the host use the wrong way to test the ripple , our ripple is lower
question would this work for charging 48v battery pack (lithium) say 58-60v and individual cells 3.5-4.2v if I used my 24v 16amp power supply with it? or should I just toss the 24v one and get a 60v power supply?
no, this is buck power supply, input must be higher than output , if you input 24V, the max output will be 21V
Will this run the 1.4kW induction heater you built?
What's the maximum input voltage? I'm using a massive toroidal smoothed to 80v DC
Just 70v maximum. 80v is too much.
Super....super...
Just a week after getting one of my own, I managed to lose the temperature probe. Do you happen to know if it's just a thermistor?
temperature probe is 3950-10K-1%
Hello. Have some questions.
1. power supply uses PWM volt regulator! is there any noise on the output?
2. Normally if the power supply can handle 18A in 60v then it can handle more A in 12v if the volt regula can handle more?
3. volt regularor is a bit small and undersized with a small heatsink! Have you done a heat test with any car light bulbs?
4. Load 18A and then short-circuit. will it survive?
why should it be able to handle more amps at lower voltage? 18A is the max because of the resistance of the wires and the PCB. you cant overdoe that. It has over current protection from short circuits.
@@legobuildingsrewiew7538
WATT will be the same but amp will not be.
500w / 24v = 20.8A
500w / 12v = 41.26A
hi, is there any chance to make this module work with power supply of 84V? Even the newest ones state max. voltage input of 70V
sorry， it can't
👍
what's the advantage to having a dedicated charge post, seems a waste for something that could easily be one of your pre-sets
The port measures the battery voltage & provides reverse polarity protection
If 100Volt 100nF Polyester film capacitor reduces the "noise" by 50%, won't a 100Volt (or higher) 200nF Polyester film capacitor remove it almost completely?
so the temperature probe fault in halting battery charging is a but, fixable in firmware? Did you ask the manufacturer? Thanks
No, the temp probe isn't preventing the battery from charging. The point I was making in the video was the temp probe is only there to give the user a temperature readout. It offers no thermal shutdown if a battery were to overheat during charging :)
There is a custom made firmware available that does offer the use of the temp probe to stop the charge:
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/custom-firmware-reference-document-for-riden-rd60xx-power-supplies/
It's a long thread, but interesting.
Or there is a reference document for the custom firmware listed here: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/custom-firmware-reference-document-for-riden-rd60xx-power-supplies/
I'd love to see @Schematix do a review using the custom firmware.
Is there no way of getting a split rail supply with this psu?
is there a way to get a Linear type of Power supply to use for this? even if it's just 60V 5amps or 10amps would be enough for me. thanks
Should be able to substitute whatever linear supply you want, it doesn't really care as long as the voltage and current is below its limits.
silly question, but could you plug in a residental solar panel? say a 140w panel, rated for 30v at 8 amp?
If it's connected to a battery that the panel is supplying power to.
Not if you just want to connect it directly, since the open circuit voltage would be too high from the panels.
Ordered mine without the case and 3d printed a smaller one, that case is just too deep for my bench i placed the psu under the desk much cleaner.
Link?
Which psu did you use instead then? Was thinking of printing my case aswell
There is a shorter case available. PN: S06D
I have it on mine for the same reason - My bench isn't very deep. Power In is from the DC output of the SMPS.
This also makes the PS unit a portable supply ... I used a laptop 19V 3 A supply with banana jacks on it's output and it made it really easy when I needed some power on the go. As I only needed 12V or less, it was much easier than lugging the fullsize unit and case.
(You could even run it off a car battery in the smaller case)
@@scottmitten2248 Oh great, so i can use whatever psu?
@@aarriikknn33ll pretty much. You won't be able to get an output voltage higher than the input.
(The Riden is really just a fancy Buck converter with a really nice user interface)
Not sure about the stock firmware, but the modified one allows you to set a maximum power output, so if using a smaller supply, you don't accidently try to draw too much.
Why not use soldered ends?
What kind of capacitor did you use?
Would adding an inductor also help remove the ripples?
Since this is a buck type converter, there is already an inductor on the output. It's possible adding an additional ferrite bead or toroid could further reduce noise
how much noise do the fans? Is it tolerable, or pronounced?
Is it a synchronous or asynchronous buck ??
Can we use it as a short killer
Correct me if im wrong but aren't your wires kinda thin for 18 amps even with two? 5:19
Not really. They are more than good enough even if it was just one pair. Industrial standards allow alot of current in closed ventilated cabbinets
@@Alpine_flo92002 1.5sq mm is rated for 16A. 2.5 for 25A if I remember correctly.
@@therealb8880.75mm 6A, 1mm 10A, 1.5mm 13/16A, 2.5 I think 25A I think
so to recap green post no volts no amp and red post can set volts but no amps
Has anyone tried using an 1225 instead of the specified 1220 lithium coin cell in the internal clock backup battery holder? The 1225 is only 0.5mm thicker than the 1220 but it provides about 25% higher mAh capacity than the 1220. This would increase the length of time between opening the case to replace the coin cell.
I'd like to try going from 1220 to 1225 and would appreciate any real-world experience with possible damage to the coin cell top retention connector. It pretty much depends on how brittle is the alloy used for the metal connector that clips over the top of coin cell when installed. It feels like it should be flexible enough to accept the 1225 cell without a problem.
By the way, it's not unusual for a PCB horizontal mount 1220 coin cell holder to be designed to properly fit and retain BOTH the 1220 and 1225 coin cell sizes. It would just be nice to have confirmation.
FYI: In this type of application I recommend using "BR####" series instead of "CR####" series coin cells because the BR's have an ~10 year shelf life compared to the "CR's" 5-7yr shelf life, and the "BR's" also tend to last longer in exceptionally low-drain circuits like clock backups.
I'm considering wiring in a 2032 cell holder to allow for that instead of the silly 1220. Were they unable to find space for the ubiquitous 2032?
@@sadfur8728 I too would have preferred a 2032. I have quite a few pieces of equipment that use them so it would be easier (and cheaper) for me, and provide longer lasting backup power for this power supply's clock.
@@exgenica it would be interesting to know why they couldn't fit a 2032 in there, as it isn't exactly lacking for space. Could be they just don't think about the advantages of it at the time. Strange because everything else seems well thought out.
Would the noise reduced if use Meanwell psu ?
No the cause of the noise is the Riden itself doing its switching.
using a 200nf cap, i can notice a better result?
In theory.
Does it have a reverse polarity protection feature?
A 25A fuse will protect it from a reverse connection to a large battery, but then you'll have to solder on a replacement. They have an accessory fuse included stated as test only, which has a clip attachment.
The schematic is an over engineered puzzle. The high output caps and voltage ripple (250mV+, and that is their own spec sheet) make this s non-starter for me.
Precisely my issues with this otherwise cool unit.
While, yes, I am in the market for a lab supply, I'm not prepared to pay up to 200 dollars for a fairly noisy lab power supply. I do not need the amount of power this unit delivers, so I'll be spending my money on a less powerful unit with better output.
(05:50) Why? When you make a claim like this, especially when it deviates from the provided design, it would be helpful and increase trust if you state WHY you don't recommend keeping the tinned wire ends on screw-down connectors.
The internet is full of claims that have no supporting information *sometimes* with disastrous results.
For example:
There is a reputable "best practices" study that shows that folded-over bare stranded wiring is superior to tinned wiring in this type of connector.
You think using "folded over" bare wires provides greater and/or more reliable current carrying capability?
You think soldered wire ends eventually loosen over time due to malleability of the solder under constant pressure?
You think soldered ends are contaminated by flux or other materials and thus don't conduct as well?
Or...something else?
I think anyone who ever tried to use a screw down terminal on a soldered piece of stranded wire would understand why. You are more likely to end up with a connection issue on the hard soldered diameter vs the stranded wire. The internet is also full of people who demand unreasonable explanations based on their own ignorance.
@@beaker2000 said, "The internet is also full of people who demand unreasonable explanations based on their own ignorance."
The internet is also full of people who make bad suggestions and erroneous claims based on their own ignorance as well.
There are also many videos on CZcams that intentionally provide malicious "hacks" and "tips" that will destroy viewers' property if attempted.
Because in this kind of connector, there is a metal, flat clamping plate which compresses the wire against another flat plate. This makes clamping on a hard soldered end of a wire of any reasonable diameter (like in this case where a lot of amps could be involved) it doesn't make good contact and cant spread out stranded wire between the two clamping plates. It is like trapping a hard cylinder between two panels of plywood. If you had ever worked with circuits and electronics and tried to do this as many have you would have realized that it is better to cut off the tinned end of the wire in a clamp type connection so the stranded wire is compressed and spreads out between the two plates vs the hard ball of solder.
@@beaker2000 I've never had a meaningful problem with soldered wire and screw-down connectors. I HAVE had a problem with bare stranded wire when insufficient connection was made between the screw because too few strands made a good connection, which caused significant overheating at the connection and melted connector plastic housings.
Perhaps some soldered stranded-wire and screw connector issues may be due to solder alloy percentages and/or content, "lead-free" solders, and so on. It also could be due to insufficiently physically securing the wire which could allow it to "wiggle" back and forth in the connector which of course could deform softer alloys and thus help cause connection problems.
First
Wires should always be soldered or crimped for the screw in terminal, never repeat what author does
Second
CAUTION: POSSIBLE HARDWARE DAMAGE
A feature of the RD6018 display functionality has a bit of a learning curve and can result in damaging attached electronics until you learn the way the new display works.
The display of Voltage and Current settings on the LCD display is very different from my other PSUs and it has potential to cause significant problems (like destroyed circuits and devices).
My other PSUs (digital and analog, sample size=3) show the set Voltage and Current 100% of the time. That means that even when the OUTPUT on/off enable button is OFF, the primary large digit Voltage and Current digits show the values I set ALL the time. The RD6018 does NOT work that way.
The RD6018 sets these large digits to ZERO whenever the output enable button is off.
To see what you have set the Voltage and Current values to when the output enable button is off, you have to look at the very small (about 3mm high) Vout and Iout indicators on the right side of the LCD display. The large digits will show ZERO voltage and ZERO amps when the output enable button is off.
That method is not only redundant, it not industry standard, and it puts hardware at higher risk of damage due to wrong actions by the user. (It's redundant because we already KNOW that when the more obvious output enable Light is "off" (or the button is in a particular "in or out" position), that the output is at 0.00VDC)
The PROBLEM is, that since I have grown use to the way my other PSUs operate, when the RD6018 shows the large digits as ZERO when the output enable button if off, I may think the ACTUAL output voltage is also SET to ZERO, and when I enable the output it will be at ZERO volts...but that won't be true on the RD6018...it will output the value shown in the tiny 3mm high digits section of the display, which could be up to 60VDC. This could result in my connecting a device to much higher voltage than I had intended.
For example, when I was testing some LED bicycle headlights my OLD way was to set the voltage to zero and enable the output to the headlight, then slowly increase the voltage until the headlight began to glow. However, with the way the RD6018 displays the output voltage differently, there is a chance I could connect a 12VDC LED headlight to the PSU while THINKING the output was set to ZERO volts because the large digits displayed ZERO when the output enable switch was off. In reality, since those large digits only make it LOOK like it's set to zero (based on my old routine using any of my other PSUs), I could accidentally connect the 12VDC LED headlight to the PSU and when I enable the output button, it instead could apply 48VDC to the 12VDC LED headlight (because I'd just previously tested a 48V headlight)...and thus destroy the 12VDC headlight.
Therefore, I now have to be VERY careful to keep my impaired vision eyes on the TINY 3mm "Vout" digits before I connect my LED headlight for testing in order to see what my Vout is set to...and NOT rely on the large digits before I enable the output voltage.