Upgrade Ender 3 Neo Hot End
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Sponsored by creality3dofficial.com by Comgrow
Chuck shows you how an all metal heat break works and how it can improve your 3D printer. Then he shows you how to install one on the Creality Ender 3 Neo and Neo V2.
Ender 3 Neo All Metal Heat Break: amzn.to/3MvBow3
Thumb Ratchet: amzn.to/3eydlzO
Hex Bit Set: amzn.to/3EHJX4V
6mm Socket: amzn.to/3CCFWMq
Ender 3 Neo:
Video: • New Creality Ender 3 N...
Amazon: amzn.to/3TXul2r
Creality3DOfficial Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3QDhrEN
Ender 3 V2 Neo:
Video: • First Look at the Ende...
Amazon: amzn.to/3d0wdGW
Creality3DOfficial Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3A4iXbU
For all standard Ender 3:
How to install Heat Break on Ender 3 V2 Video:
• High Temperature All M...
Click on link below and then go to All Products then CopperHead Heat Break and
select the "C-E version" for Creality Hot Ends to find the heatbreak.
www.sliceengineering.com/chep
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends and get 5% off your purchase:
**** Support the Channel *****************
Financial Support through Patreon:
/ elproducts
Ender 2 Pro:
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3tnLuHn
Amazon: amzn.to/3sLuSaW
***** Tools *****
Filament Friday E-Leveler Tool
amzn.to/3ishwM1
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
amzn.to/2MOR00X
*** All Profiles are for 0.4 Nozzle ***
PETG Best 0.12 Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/363837
PETG Good 0.20 Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/363831
PETG Extra Fast 0.12 Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/363877
PETG Extra Fast 0.20 Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/363859
PETG Extra Fast 0.28 Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/363847
****** PLA Cura Profiles **********
Filament Friday Best (0.12) Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/342708
Filament Friday Good (0.20) Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/342711
Filament Friday Extra Fast (0.20) Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/342738
Filament Friday Extra Fast (0.28) Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/342747
Filament Friday Extra Fast (0.12) Cura Profile
thangs.com/file/342717
***** Tools *****
Filament Friday E-Leveler Tool
amzn.to/3ishwM1
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
amzn.to/2MOR00X
Nozzle Removal Tool:
Palm Ratchet: amzn.to/3u6ncm7
Premium Version: amzn.to/3KZox4t
1/4'' Socket: amzn.to/2OjdHdg
***** Popular Prints:
CHEP Cube Test Print: social.thangs.com/m/21739
CHEP PTFE Cutter Tool: social.thangs.com/m/23507
CHEP Pawn: social.thangs.com/m/29643
***** Creality Ender 3 Pro: *****
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2SIMa86
Bundle From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2FuKFpu
***** Creality Ender 3 V2 ******
Amazon: amzn.to/3ioLVsC
Banggood: bit.ly/2MQ5VGM
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/30gh9OD
***** Creality Ender 3: ******
amzn.to/3fSIISy
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2sEthbX
Bundle From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2ZvGLnE
***** Creality Ender 3 Max *****
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/3oXr3wi
Amazon: amzn.to/3p0oYzB
Direct Support through PayPal donation:
www.paypal.me/elproducts
Support the Channel here and Shop at MatterHackers.com and you automatically donate to the channel at no cost to you:
bit.ly/1Ugcijp
***Creality Ender 3 Parts/Upgrades ****
Ender 3 Glass Bed:
Amazon: amzn.to/3tYea7m
Replacement Nozzles for CR10/Ender 3:
amzn.to/2m39K1y
X-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/38BKbYP
Y-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/2PhOdhi
Chuck's Favorite EZR Extruder:
bit.ly/2rlKCpp
Creality 8-bit Silent Stepper Board: amzn.to/2YPM0Nh
Cap Tubes & Couplings: amzn.to/2Vf8BCf
CR10/Creality Ender 3 Nozzles: amzn.to/2m39K1y
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/3sfDG7s
Solder Sleeve Kit: amzn.to/2Pqqngm
Creality Ender 3 Fan Set (24v): amzn.to/38u9aOl
CR-10 Fan Set (12v): amzn.to/2PrcCxK
T-Nuts Kit: amzn.to/2LsQZg8
Screw Kit: amzn.to/2Va8uGK
Temperature Meter Used in Videos: amzn.to/2JpUJOC
Screwdriver set used in Videos: amzn.to/2PbWocM
Creality Ender 3 Upgrade Package (Extruder, Silent Board & Capricorn Tubing): bit.ly/2MNvmcs
**** Support the Channel *****************
EBAY USA: ebay.to/1wtxfiU
EBAY UK: ebay.eu/2qdC5iy
EBAY Canada: bit.ly/2qdGRwh
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter. - Jak na to + styl
For standard Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 to upgrade the hot end watch this video: czcams.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/video.html
thanks mate from UK
have you ever considered making a Klipper video? What about the creality sonic pad which klipperizes any Ender?
will you be testing out the new titan extruder+ for the neo
I genuinely wish these became the norm since I can not say how many times people go running ABS/ASA at 250+ and then go to do PLA and complain their PTFE is nuked/blame the company. Also, the breakdown products of PTFE are not something you want to be breathing either!
pleas do more for Ender 3 Neo!!!
Hey i am going to buy my first 3d printer but i am not able to decide which to buy ender 3 neo or anycubic cobra i am also new to 3d printing
Please reply 🙏
@@oioindoor8155 ender 3 neo is awesome
@@oioindoor8155Im also new to 3d printing, and narrowed it down to the same 2 printers. I ended up buying the ender 3 neo not to long ago, and I like it. I still have problems with stringing, because I need to get better at the slicing software. I was using Creality slicer and was getting good results, but I’m moving over to cura slicer, and haven’t got the same results yet. The only thing I dont realy like about this printer is the hot end, and the drive system, direct drive sounds much nicer. However there are many upgrdes for this printer, and some are 3d printable upgrades… so thats nice. Hopefully this helps a bit if you haven’t already got one
@@gimmy9099yes it is😅
YESSSSS
This turned out to be a great upgrade, but it was definitely not "plug and play" for me. I had to tighten up retraction settings to around ~2mm like others have mentioned, but still got bad stringing. After a PID auto-tune helped but did not solve my problem, I calibrated my extruder steps also. Out of the box it was under-extruding by 8mm. I also found it helped to return to the stock 200/60 PLA settings, and play with Z-hop.
When changing to an all metal heat break its important to reduce retraction distance or you're going to have problems. If you're running a bowden setup, 2mm retraction might be your new max. With direct drive, 1mm (or close to it) might be max.
If you're trying to get fine details out of PLA, don't bother with all metal heat breaks as your bowden tube is doing exactly what it was designed to do. All metal is for plastics requiring more heat than PLA. Just one humble opinion.
I print with all metal on my Ender 3 V2 every day in my printfarm with same 6mm retractions and no issues at all.
@@FilamentFriday I wonder what the difference is then? In your print farm, what material are you printing with and at what temp?
I'm using the all metal heatbreak for ABS at 230-235C. I was getting clogs until I reduced the retraction from 6mm to 2.2mm. Perhaps there was something else going on??
PLA at 205°C. 6mm retraction on bowden.
Don't need to write a book saying this post was EXCELLENT!!! This post perfectly explained the problem we were having and remedied it!!! Thank you!!!🙏👌
This is a perfectly timed video for me. I just bought a Diamondback nozzle so I can print all the abrasive filaments I'd ever want on my original Ender 3 (highly modified), but still have the stock hotend. I want to be able to print higher temp abrasives such as PA12 CF Nylon, so I just started looking into bi-metal heatbreaks. I think you just convinced me to finally make the switch!
looking forward to more videos on the neo i just got one. so far i havent had a print fail. auto level is great
Thanks for the in-depth explanation. There is so much to learn about the art/science of 3D printing effectively, and it's videos like this that help me figure out what info applies to my setup.
Excellent explanation about heatbreak! Clear as mountain creek water...
Hi Chuck! Just wanted to let you know, I just put together my Ender3 Neo V2 and performed this upgrade as part of my assembly! Literally not a drop of filament went through the stock setup, and it has been working perfectly. I had an Ender 3 Pro a while ago that got hit by a lightning strike that fried all the electronics and motors so when I replaced it I tried a Prusa Mk3S+. I've come to realize that while the engineering is impressive, they're SERIOUSLY overpriced, and I'm glad to be back tinkering with an Ender again!
Terrific explanation. Covers everything in less than 8 minutes. Worked perfectly. Thanks.
Awesome content as usual. Thanks Chep
nice job chep keep up the good work
Thanks for this mate! I just had to perform my first nozzle change on my new ender 3 neo and had no idea how to get the guard off... Your video helped heaps!
Awesome guide! Even though I've watched the previous ones it was still interesting to see.
I run that same bi-metal heat break on my four CR-6’s, they work great saves the PTFE tubing and the headache of dealing with the burnt tubing.
Wow.... the Comments sections for your videos is always such an eye openner for related issues to consider. Thanks for sharing.
Many times the comments are actually referring to other issues but blame it on heat break. So read cautiously.
Excellent! Thanks a lot, Chuck! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video and explanations !!!!
Thank you very much 😀
Amazing Chanel I am in love, my ender 3 neo just arrived, I will play with it but I already put this piece of kit in my trolley. Especially because in short future I will use Petg and it will require higher temperatures.
Nice Install!
Very instructive. Thanks for sharing.
Hey, guys. This is awesome upgrade. However many, including me, have posted a difficulty in getting the new heat break to fit inside the heat sink. I just had to redo mine, since I messed it up the first time. I found that one heat break would not fit. But another one, ordered at a different time from same seller, purportedly the same item, would fit easily. So if you are having problems and can't get it into the heat sink, it may be a supplier/defect issue. Not required to make it hot and trade off the aluminum/copper heat expansion.
I bought a pair of cheap bimetal heat breaks from Amazon three months ago for my Ender 3 for £8.99. I am still using the first one. They just work.
I began modding a monoprice mini select a few months ago and this was one of the first things I did (along with replacing the entire hot end) and I accidentally got the 6mm diameter ones instead of the 7mm. But I got a 4 pack off ebay for $11 shipped. I couldn't imagine paying $17 for one of them. But then again I did wait 6 weeks for them to arrive from China but I wasn't in a hurry so it was fine. I had no end of clogs and ptfe breaking down and these things solved all of those issues. TBH this upgrade is a no brainer.
Thanks for your review!!! You're doing very well!!😛😛
works like a charm!
Chuck,Thanks. So many people are clamoring for 300C nozzle. If you made a video on how to do that, it would be so cool. No one seems to do a good one on it. The biggest challenge is the firmware upgrade. I see that Creality has just offered a 300C printer, but in small format. A max with 300C would be so worth it. I have neo 3 max.
I have been desperately trying to find out how to get that front case thing off after i had a blob issue this is the only video ive found of it
great tutorial! thanks
Hi @Chuck what an eye opening video! Thank you! just ordered all metal heatbreak from the link you provided. I have Ender 3 v2 Neo as well. I am only buying this to stop PTFE tubing not to melt and block nozzle some day. My printer is new but it is best to be prepared from the start I guess. Cause by design the stock heartbreak is a time bomb. What I wonder is Titanium heat transfer characteristics? Do you have to increase hotend temperature slightly for PLA? I am printing PLA at 210 Celsius with stock heatbreak. I have an update! Bi-metal heatbreak came installed exactly just as Chuck instructed. It works beautifully much more filament is can be extruded from nozzle with this upgrade too! Plus I don't have to worry about my PTFE tube melted one day in middle of printing... This is just awesome upgrade Chuck Thanks Man! There is no need to upgrade to slice engineering's hotend with this bi-metal heatbreak upgrade! Only thing was not exactly is the heatbreak's outer diameter is half mm bigger so I sanded down a little and then outer shell become exactly 6mm then I could insert heatbreak into the heatsink easily.
This works fantastic on my ender 3 neo. I pair this and a brass/ruby nozzle for abrasive material. Reduce your retraction settings to 2mm at 80mm/s, and run a temp of 235 PLA, and 260 ABS. Carbon fiber PLA runs at 260 as well
were you having trouble at the lower temps?
Thank you for this video. It seems Creality is mixing and matching things up a bit with their models. I have a CR-10 Smart with the same hot end shown in this video. I think the CR-10 Smart uses parts from the CR-6. I'm buying this from your link, as I switch filament often and want to gracefully transition from PLA / ABS / PETG / TPU as desired. This might just help with that.
I just bought and installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. Your video was very easy to follow. But I took a really good look at the bowder tube couplers while I had everything disassembled and I'm wondering how they are replaced. Can you help me out?
Great video, Chuck! I spent $100 to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro, not aware of this printer which has all of the upgrades I purchased pre-installed. I'm still struggling through issues with my upgrades (and a possibly a failing extruder). If I'd known I could have purchased the Ender-3 Neo for under $200, I'd have just sold my Pro and purchased this one. I'd be way ahead! Hind sight, as they say...
#3. Nice to see. Thanks a lot
Hey dude. Your videos are the best on CZcams. I only watch yours and CNC kitchen (for filament and printing tips). However, the heat break is primarily due to the titanium between the top and bottom, which is a pretty good thermal insulator and doesn't conduct heat very well, not the diameter of the tube.
I wonder why my foray into the Slice Eng heat break created prints that were under extruded but only in spots with huge holes in the print. I went back to good ole hot PTF Tube and all is perfect again. I just wanted to reduce the amount of times I change the PTF tube but it's worth the work to have better prints.
Just wanted to stop in and say: Thank you for making this video. The replacement heat break you suggested in this video was the key solution to fixing the absolutely infuriating retraction issues I was having while trying to print anything that involved a lot of retraction. (It would end up clogging the tefflon tube, requiring it to be replaced every time!) With this new part, the printer finally can finish this prints without causing a clog, and i thank you
i do have one thing to see if you know, though. Is the Neo compatible with the Ender 3 Pro's dual z axis upgrade? Have been thinking about getting that but it does not list the neo as supported.
thanks again!
Good info. Thanks ❤. Anybody really measure the temperature at the heat break?
Hey CHEP can you review the Crealty Sonic pad with klipperand see if it is better than the raspberry pi version of klipper?
these heatbreaks are the best upgrade you can make for a ptfe lined printer (imo :) )
I ordered the same heatbreak, but it seems not all NEOs are manufactured equally. Even with the heatbreak cold and the heatsink heated to around 250 C I couldn't get it on to the heatbreak. I needed to result to sanding the heatsink down + use a hammer to get it on. Otherwise a grade upgrade!
Are you planning to do more upgrade videos on it?
BTW, Klipper firmware on the V2 Neo improves print speed without a reduction in quality immensely for this printer. Because of the all metal chassis, I don't have oscillation issues either. I've ordered an accelerometer to see how far i can push it with input shaping next.
FYI: I have an Ender 3 Neo Max. I had to change my retraction time to 95 and my nozzle temp to 220 with PLA or the nozzle would clog. In the long run it will prevent the PTFE tube from getting destroyed but it's not quite plug n play.
Agreed, retraction settings need to be adjusted after installing this mod. What retraction settings have you found to work?
@@teamkinetixmedia 95 works great
@@elizabethdue4801 95 for what? 95mm/s retraction speed?
Thank you sir.
The only issues I've had with all-metal hot ends is with PLA at lower layer heights (sub .2) with a .4 nozzle or if I try to iron the top of a print. As long as I'm pushing a good amount of plastic at a decent speed, the all-metal hot ends work well. I haven't tried a bi-metal yet and that might do a better job of keeping melted material from creeping up the heat break and causing a clog.
I’ve had no issues with that.
Very detailed and informative video! Do you think it's possible or even beneficial to upgrade the Neo's print bed to spring steel sheet as well as the display to color? Thanks.
Iv upgraded the bed from glass to pei flexi bed (it’s prity much spring steel on magnetic sheet just with some fancy coating
Good evening
I own an Ender 3V2 Neo and I would like to change the extruder and hotend for a direct drive, which would be the best model for my printer. I use PLA+ and PETG in general. Thank you for your help.
P.S. My motherboard and firmware allow a temperature of 250°C maximum.
Any chance you can help me identify the two screws that go from the heat sink to the heat break? I got my neo refurbished and just noticed them missing after a clogged mess. It would be greatly appreciated.
Would this be worth doing over getting a swiss hot end? Thanks!
I will hot end upgrade be enough to be able to fun PETG filament? Thank you very much in advance> :)
I want to try an all metal hotend, but TPU is my main filament that I use in my small business so I'm hesitant.
Thanks
Am waiting from China the direct drive extruder for my Ender-3 and i need your opinion.i have the upgraded heat break in stock.
Its good idea to replace the heat brake on the direct drive or i will use the new direct drive how it is?
hello chep can i ask what i your retraction settings on ender 3 neo?
Does this let me go past 260C in printing temp? Or do I need a better hot end? If so, which hot end works with the ender 3 neo? I have the ender 3 neo with sprite SE "direct" extruder (which really uses about a 3" piece of tube.
it will work even better if you put thermal compound before installing it !
I’ve found no improvement in previous testing.
The hotend is the same that cr 10 smart ?
I got the thermal runaway out of the box did I do something wrong I followed the instructions
Copper/Titanium ftw Titanium blocks heat, Copper radiates so this is perfect for heatbreaks
Any recommendation for a CR-10S?
Thank God I didn't buy the slice engineering one. You uploaded this at a perfect time since I just got my ender 3 v2 neo and was looking to upgrade this for longevity and it's so much cheaper.
The offbrand ones are kinda bad quality, the extra money for a Brozzl or Slice Engineering one is worth it
@@AniviaS if you live in the US
@@AniviaS problem is I have the v2 neo and slice doesn't make one for this hotend
is the same as the TC4 sold on aliexpress?
Anyone have a link for an ender 3 neo firmware update that uses cr touch and can get to 300C? Thanks
Has anyone tested this hot end on a Cr-6 SE? I have considered doing this on mine for a long time.
Will this eliminate the need to upgrade to a capricorn ptfe tube for example?
Yes.
Hola muchísimas gracias por el video!!. ¿Que distancia de retracción aconsejas ahora con este cambio en la Ender 3 v2 Neo?. Saludos cordiales y gracias por la ayuda!!
Hola, en mi caso con una impresora igual estoy haciendo pruebas y me funciono asi 2 mm 80mm/s a 220ºC para PLA, para PETG 225ºC 5 mm 30 mm/s
@@immedinafrank Hola gracias por tu referencia. Si me permites darte un consejo, es demasiado rápido la velocidad de retracción, ojo que se puede quebrar en filamento, y demasiado alto la temperatura para PLA. Los valores que usas para compensar altas velocidades pueden jugarte una mala pasada en la parte mecánica. Por otro lado, usar bimetal en PLA no lo aconsejo, bajo mi experiencia, porque el material se tiende a pegar cuando no se usa un bimetal de alta calidad, es decir, un interior completamente liso. Gracias por compartir tu experiencia, igual forma te doy este consejo. Saludos cordiales!!
@@diegosebastiangrGracias a mi también se me hicieron bastante altos los valores, pero con la torre de temperatura es lo que mejor se ve, sigo haciendo pruebas puesto que apenas cambie a bimetal.
I put one of these in my Ender 3V2 Neo and man, what a great improvement! Thanks Chuck!
Does it still work? :) I'm on my second attempt with this upgrade today. First time I got clogging after some 1 hour of print. Today I tried a heatbreak of a bit better quality + applied thermal paste - no clogging, but print quality is waaaay worse than with the stock option. Figured out that best retraction distance is not 2 mm (as people usually recommend) but 1.6 mm, it decreased stringing but it's still there.
What changes in settings you had to make to get it working nicely?
@@arduino-org-ua Sure does!
hi, can you change the black fitting on top of the heatsink for a normal one ,please.
I replaced the black plastic one on mine with a metal one from the Creality replacement kit.
CHEP, what is your opinion on this working with the NEOs? I'm seeing mixed opinions in the comments, I recently acquired an Ender 3 Max Neo and I noticed a good amount of stringing, and the adhesion could be better. I've tried a number of your recommendations and most have helped, but considering this change as well as an upgrade. Your thoughts would be appreciated with the Neos. Thanks!
Hi chuck. I hope
You can help me. I changed the heat break to what you recommended but now my dual drive filament extruded is clicking and stops the filament from going into the hot end. Any thoughts? I’ve already taken apart the hot end and reseated the new heatbreak and made changes, but it is still happening.
sounds like heat-creep. Reduce retraction and temp.
Hey chep what can i do to my ender 3 v2 neo to print carbon fiber nylon. Already got capricorn tubing, a bimetal heat break, and some steel nozzles. Do i need a better heater cartridge and some firmware? Or what else do i need? Not much info on the neos or any upgraded hot ends :(
Can the neo hit 260C? If so all I would reccomend is a heated chamber and a filament dryer, nylon loves to soak up all the moisture in the air.
This has to do with heat conduction, not absorption. Titanium is a very poor heat conductor but has a high melting temperature, which is why it's the metal of choice here. Copper is a very good heat conductor, which allows the heat to conduct to the filament near the nozzle.
All those fancy bi-metal arguments only give small incremental benefits. Just stainless steel all the way is better than having the PTFE tube going to the nozzle. Sure, a bi-metal heat-break will ensure better cooling at the cold-end because of the copper there and hence make the temperature of the fillament above the small section a bit lower, but if stainless steel can get this below the glass-transition point quickly enough, then the extra gain of the copper doesn't bring much. And the melting is done at the hot side, where you have either PTFE, stainless steel or titanium up to the nozzle, which all suck for transferring heat, but that's also the intention. So the melting is to be done in the nozzle, not the heat-break. So, I'd say: at least get a $2 stainless steel all-metal heat-brake replacement as even that cheap one will be much healthier than cooked PTFE!
@@MisterkeTube I'm guessing that you're right, that the bi-metal aspect is only slightly more than a gimmick.
It would be good to do some measurements to see how much the flow rate is affected by going from pure titanium to the bi-metal design.
I'll bet CNC kitchen has done it already. I haven't bothered to look.
Any reason you have not reviewed the Spider Hotend from Creality? Seemed to work great on my setup for Ender3 Pro.
It’s on the list of projects.
I have been looking to install a bi-metal heat break on my cr-6 se, have you tested how well this works on that?
No, let me know.
Hi, I have had my creaity neo for about 1-1/2 months already, not printed on it, I ordered the all metal heat break. I wrote down the instructions, Where you say remove the filament, then use a racket to remove the nozzle. I have never used any filament yet, so excuse me for being dense, I would just proceed to remove the nozzle, right?
Yes.
Hey Bud, I tried this but for some reason it's not pushing through. Its
getting stuck I believe at the smaller Neck portion of the new heat break. This is kind of strange because I took it out and tried to push the filament through with it not Installed and it goes through just fine. I am running a bowden Capricorn Tube Not sure if that's relevant but was hoping you might have some advice. Thank you, 🙏 .
Get a new Bowden tube. The stock tube is fractionally larger and won't meet flush with the recess in the heat break.
Hi, i have the same printer and changed the barrel by a bimetallic one, the printers keeps clogging in the cold zone at the middle of the print. I trided from 0 to 4.5mm of retraction and from 20 to 50mm/s of velocity and keeps clogging. After days of trying i installed the old barrel with a capricorn tube
J'ai exactement le même problème, j'y comprend rien.
Question: The upgraded copper heat break doesn't fit inside the aluminum heat sink when cold. I see that you are inserting it when hot. I assume that it fits better when hot? I tried this once, but didn't get it right, so I will have to do it again. I would think that, when hot, the copper would expand and be larger. You easily inserted the copper into the aluminum heat sink. Did you do anything special, like drilling out the heat sink a bit? I'm trying to get it figured out before working around the hot metal (again).
The heat break itself is not hot, but he is inserting it into hot components.
Can you please do a video on the Sonic Pad…. There are no good instructional video on CZcams as you do.
Its working great , but you have to lower your extraction , from 5 mm tot 1.5 mm ...
What's your printing temp and retraction speed?
hey chep switch out the hot end and also switch to the capricorn bowden tube but nothing come out. Any ideads? ive torn it apart twice and cant seem to find the issue
Same here. I think its the fan not cooling properly
Did this upgrade and ever since been then the print quality has gone down I even put a Capricorn tube as well! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
When I replaced my tubing with Capricorn I was getting underextrusion and you could tell because the layers weren’t bonding very well. I figured out that I hadn’t installed the tubing correctly and needed to push it down further and tighten it while the nozzle was around 200° and that fixed all my problems.
hi found a Heatbreak for H2 V2.0 looks simular but wil it work whit the neo?
I think it should say compatible with CR6 I think the neo uses the same hotend as the CR6 which is an upgrade over the v2
By chance are you going to do a review for the Creality Sonic Pad?
Working on it.
@@FilamentFriday Great news! Waiting for it!
Would this work for the Ender 2 pro? They appear to have the same setup.
If you use the one from slice engineering I show in the linked video.
I have a standard Ender 3 Pro. I wonder if there is a heat break for my printer as my Sunlu PLA+ filament needs 230C.
The video I linked to is the one to use,
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for your help. Best wishes.
If using this heat break would I be able to use nylon filament?
Possibly. Depends on the nylon.
I've been using all-metal heat breaks in my Ender 3 and Sidewinder X1 for a while and wouldn't go back to a standard setup ever again. With the quality metal heat breaks out there and a little tweaking to your retraction settings, there are absolutely no advantages of having PTFE in direct contact with the nozzle (while there are plenty of drawbacks).
how are your retraction settings
@@JPZEF On the Ender 3 with the Micro-Swiss hot end and direct-drive extruder, 1.5 mm at 35 mm/s seems to work for pretty much everything other than TPU (I last printed Ninjaflex at 0.2 mm and 50 mm/s). For the Sidewinder with either the Polisi3D or Trianglelabs bimetallic heat breaks, it's varied between 1 mm for PLA at 25 mm/s, 2 mm for PETG at 25 mm/s, and 0.5 mm at 20 mm/s for TPU.
Hey chep. I haber an ender 3 pro. ITS posibble to install this on It?
Yes, check the video I linked for the slice engineering one.
Will this heat all metal heat break work on an Ender 3 Max Neo?
Yes. They have the same hotend.
I noticed you did not use thermal paste on the heat block? Would not that have helped more?
Not really.
I used the paste because I was getting thermal runaway on every 4th or 5th print. Adding the paste eliminated the problem. It's been 6 mo. since I added the paste and no thermal runaway.
@@joemusto5674what paste you used?
So, I got this installed, but I seem to be having an issue where the filament backs out or breaks off and jams against the throat. It’s stops printing, I try to manually feed because there doesn’t seem to be a clog and it won’t advance. I have to pull the tubing and reinsert the filament down the throat. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?
Bonjour, as tu trouvé une solution à ce problème ?
I really cant believe they arent standard now when they cost so little for such an improvement.
Did you need to change your retraction settings? I put a all metal heatbreak in my Ender 3 Max and found that it appeared to be retracting melted PLA into the cooler section of the metal path and causing blocking. I have experimented with Maker;s Muse retraction tower everything in the range 2mm-5mm but nothing seems to be "perfect" - too short and stringing and blobbing is a problem (because of he bowden tube?) and too long it seems to jam as described. Its possible I might have a problem with the filament as what I have is getting a bit old, so I haven't tried everything yet, but I just wonder if there are any other things I should look out for, I would try a direct drive extruder (which I have but needs modifying to fit) but am worried about the extra weight on the wider X carriage and I can't afford dual Z right now even if one was available for this "frankenstein" printer.
I didn’t change mine.
@@FilamentFriday Hmm it may be something else then. I think I'll try getting some new filament just to eliminate that and then redo all the setup again.
@@IanSlothieRolfe Dry your filament
The thing that we’re probably all curious about… if it’s such a big improvement, why don’t manufactures just include an all metal part? The same way they still make inferior, plastic extruder arms, when they all fail so easily.
I think it is because PTFE hotends are more forgiving for bad retraction settings for beginners, but I feel the PTFE breaking down and clogging cause more issues than it fixes. Just my $0.02. I do wish they became the new norm but these machines are made to the cheapest possible price, and good upgrades be darned.
The heatbreak needs to be super smooth to not cause a clog. A ptfe tube is super smooth slippery, so doesn't have much risk of causing a clog. Not to mention cheap and readily available. If you are only gonna print with pla, then it is the better option. If you need high temp resistance, you have to go all metal.
Because they have tons of this stuff in stock and it must be sold first XD
Historically, all metal was a tradeoff because the large throated ones had heat creep, and bad manufacturing left internal lips to jam on. Modern style thin throated all metal is very different. It's still a tradeoff on Ender 3 & clones with the bad stock extruders just because there's more friction and the extruder is so borderline to begin with, but if you put on a good extruder it's all win.
Cost - bimetal heatbreaks a precision item = expensive. Ditto with metal extruder arms.
Anyone know how to use his bed leveling tool on a textured pei bed plate?
I’ve tried everything and it’s always way off.
I’m probably missing something extremely obvious, so feel free to mock me if you have the solution. 😊
Are you using the GCode for the tool. www.chepclub.com/electronic-bed-level-tool-free.html
My neo is printing great, but the prints are cementing to the bed. I'm down to 50° with the hot end at 205°.
Could your nozzle be a touch too low? I adjusted my z offset up slightly and the prints were much easier to remove from the bed
Dumb question. What tool are you using to hold the heat block?
Vice grip