Thanks so much for making this video. I couldn’t figure out why I could not shift into my highest gear. Turns out my B-limit screw was WAY out of adjustment just like you discussed in your video. 😊
Thank you great video. I am just fitting this mech and I never realised about the locking mechanism. No doubt it won't be as easy for me as it was for you but I can now just review to your video until I get it right. You now have another Sub.
I'm so glad I watched this as I was convinced my mec was broken as I hadn't realised its meant to move like a pendulum when it's first fitted, I'm guessing that's part ot the clutch
@@Homeneer In the biggest sprocket the chain should have a bit more of an S-bend between the jockey wheels . Also if you have full sus bike then when you compress the rear shock it will pull the derailleur cage out straight and will either hinder travel or worse, pull on the hanger. Adding 1 link would solve the problem. Basically you want your chain as long as possible with modern derailleurs. The easiest method is to route the chain through the jockey wheels and around the smallest sprocket then pull the chain together enough where you can feel the clutch being engaged. Cut the chain there and add the quick link. Then with the b-screw you can take out the slack. With that method, you will have the longest chain possible so your suspension can move freely and it will accomodate any current cassette range (36/42/48/52) etc doesn't matter. Then after a few week's/months of riding when you get some chain growth you can simply remove 1 link to take out the slack.
This helped me more than the high budget videos.
Glad to hear that 🤗
Very through explanation, and at a moderate pace, allowing time for the viewer to think about and view the video. 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks so much for making this video. I couldn’t figure out why I could not shift into my highest gear. Turns out my B-limit screw was WAY out of adjustment just like you discussed in your video. 😊
Glad to hear that the video helped
Very good video. Just what I needed. Thanks
Great to hear that 🙂
Very helpful video, thank you for the very thorough explanation and good camera angles.
Thanks for the feedback
Excellent breakdown, thank you for making it easy!
Thanks for the feedback 🙂
Thank you great video. I am just fitting this mech and I never realised about the locking mechanism. No doubt it won't be as easy for me as it was for you but I can now just review to your video until I get it right. You now have another Sub.
Glad it helped
I'm so glad I watched this as I was convinced my mec was broken as I hadn't realised its meant to move like a pendulum when it's first fitted, I'm guessing that's part ot the clutch
Thank you for the easily understandable instructions that enabled me to get my NX11 adjusted properly. I really appreciate your efforts.
Thanks for the feedback 🙂
Thankyou 👍
You're welcome 🤗
Why do Sram say for NX you need to be on second largest cog then 3mm between jockey wheel and biggest cog ? every video is different
what shifter did u used?
Its a sram 11 speed shifter. It needs to be compatible with the 11 speed derailleur.
how many teeth is the cassette that you are using?
Chain is 1-2 links too short and the upper pulley need's to be closer.
Thanks for the comment. Can you clarify how do you know the chain should be longer?
@@Homeneer In the biggest sprocket the chain should have a bit more of an S-bend between the jockey wheels .
Also if you have full sus bike then when you compress the rear shock it will pull the derailleur cage out straight and will either hinder travel or worse, pull on the hanger.
Adding 1 link would solve the problem.
Basically you want your chain as long as possible with modern derailleurs.
The easiest method is to route the chain through the jockey wheels and around the smallest sprocket then pull the chain together enough where you can feel the clutch being engaged.
Cut the chain there and add the quick link. Then with the b-screw you can take out the slack.
With that method, you will have the longest chain possible so your suspension can move freely and it will accomodate any current cassette range (36/42/48/52) etc doesn't matter.
Then after a few week's/months of riding when you get some chain growth you can simply remove 1 link to take out the slack.
Thanks for the detailed tips