Another amazingly informative video. I have "bookmarked" so many of your videos and am referencing for my van build. Surprisingly, most have nothing to do with electrical as I'm using a power bank. Y'all do great work and I loved the opening of this video!
Nice! Yeah, it's super handy. We had one in our old sprinter for pretty much the same purpose. I'm glad I've found cable chains, though, as the last time around we just let the wires dangle. 🤷😂
Looks great and wonderful explanation on how to build. Do you have links to the Led strips and associated components you recommend? (Track, diffuser, etc)
This looks great! Top quality video too. Only detail I'm not a fan of is the gap between the toe kicks of the two units - seems like a space destined to gather dirt!
Yeah, it'd be quite a bit harder to secure the cabinet to the L-Track on that side without that gap. A vacuum with a hose attachment will take care of any dirt that gets back there.
As a former cabinet maker, I dont understand why your putting a toe kick on all 4 sides of a cabinet? The toe kick only needs to be set in from the front, not all 4 sides. It should sit flush with the sides and back. That would also make the cabinet more stable.
The toe kicks needed to be inset on the sides so the brackets weren't protruding and the bathroom and storage cabinets could be mounted side by side. Plus, the toe kick on 'right' side of the cabinet is nice for when I'm spun around backwards working from the driver seat. For the back, that's just how we did it. 🤷 I think there was a clearance issue with the lower L-Track and adding a toe kick on the back fixed that. I can't remember. The cabinet is PLENTY stable since it's bolted to the floor and wall L-Track and will never be used when not bolted down.
Great stuff - I love how you guys approach things & hiw clear you are in your documentation. Couple of questions… 1. Why use kreg pocket screws on sides of drawers yet glue/nail bottom when you could glue/nail all of it (using corner clamps to establish square)? 2. Why do your toe-kicks not go all the way across the width of each unit?
Pocket holes & glue is stronger than finish nails & glue & since the bottoms of the drawers were 1/4" ply, we couldn't use pocket holes there. Since the cabinets are modular and can be placed anywhere in the van, we wanted toe kicks on all sides so that no matter where we put the cabinets, we'd have space at the bottom.
@@EXPLORISTlife Perfect! Thankyou for explaining… I knew there would be good reasons. Makes sense using nails for the 1/4” drawer base, since the alternative traditional approach of creating a groove for it to sit in would reduce space available (works fine if you use hidden undermount runners since you need that space anyway)
Question: which 12 volt outlet socket do you recommend? My husband and I have built out a 2021 Mercedes Sprinter using your wiring guide. We took your advice and put in 12 volt outlet sockets and purchased 12 volt USB outlet plugs. The problem is the plugs have a tendency to wiggle when driving down the road and thus, the device we are charging does not get charged. Thank you in advance for your response. We find your videos inspiring, educational, and extremely helpful.
Question I have are you using a wall adapter to charge the phone or are you plugged right into the USB socket in the wall. You may have not purchased high quality items
A better way to attach the cable chain is ride along the bottom side of the drawer so that as the cable chain opens and closes it rolls flush against the side of the cabinet instead of making a weird loop underneath. You can even add a piece of L-bracket with a beveled edge to support as it rolls forward.
You can prevent drilling blow-outs on plywood with good tape double layered or clamping a sacrificial piece of wood to the back side, check with other wood worker channels. But it does take extra time, so it's a balance.
By the way I'm going over your solar stuff again and I know I will have some comments, to help you and me. No offence meant but I'm checking with many other sites and books etc., and some of your stuff is too specific to Victron, I will clarify. If you did a paperback book that I could markup, I would buy it! And I do have a lot of electrical experience just getting my mind around solar details, you've been very helpful, thanks!
Great! Yeah, I find that getting highly specific is the way I can teach the best. I'll write a book one of these days, but I just don't have enough hours in the day at the moment.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yep , the same here, my kids want me to do some videos, but I'm not there yet with solar, and your already a step above all around in the general quality that I'm doing, lol! But, I'm doing different stuff also with hybrid solar boats and Suburbans and stuff so I may, but I have to make shure, I'm correct in my advice etc.!
Another great video!! Can you please share the finished external dimensions of this cabinet? And maybe the same for the toilet cabinet too? Thx heaps!!!
Even better, you can just get the 3d models and cut list for these projects here: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/plans-and-diagrams/3d-files-project-templates/camper-van-cabinetry-plans-full-set/
Those cabinets look awesome. The looks, functionality, practicality, really rugged in combination with the L-tracks. Thanks again for making this video! But what is the weight of each of those modular cabinet? I hope your not getting bored with the weight question. 😆 Ps those bags are an excellent idea as dividers
Thanks! I didn't grab a final weight of our cabinets. This one, in particular, was the lightest one (except for our upper cabinets) since it only had one drawer (drawers are heavy) and no doors (although doors aren't that heavy). The Butcher block countertop is definitely the heaviest part
I just need them to last as long as the van, which they will do. Feel free to build your cabinets however you like, though. You don't need to armchair quarterback my cabinet construction. 🤭
Does it matter if the slides are mounted towards the top of the drawer rather than the bottom. Or would they interfered with what you mounted underneath the drawer
😂🤷🤣 Oh, I see. I don't believe it matters where the slides go on the drawer. Maybe actual cabinet makers have strong opinions about that, but I don't believe it matters.
Why do people still use birch plywood for campervans? Too heavy. Should be using poplar light weight instead with professional veneer finishes only 23 kg per sheet vs. birch 38kg and terrible look.
I think looks are subjective but I get what you mean. I've been looking into the plywood encapsulated foam boards but not to sure if they will be strong enough.
We use birch because it's lightweight, strong, looks good and is readily available. Poplar is not as strong, so we'd have to use a thicker plywood to get the same strength at the joints plus it's simply not available at our local lumber yard and if I was going to have something shipped in, I would choose something with a cooler grain pattern like bamboo. Ultimately, though, use whatever wood you like in your camper. There's really not a 'wrong' choice; just a bunch of personal preferences.
Vote for birch as well. It do handle quite well with bending. Birch itself’s density is tight, therefore it weights as well. Some had made lighter by saw holes there. And surely a lot depend abt planning, where, how much surface is really needed and so on.
If weight is your only factor, you shall not use plywood-built cabinets at all, you framebuild them with 1-1,5" sticks and use really thin sheets (appr. 5-6 mm) as a skin. Poplar is not as strong as birch and would require a thicker plywood.
@Vangeezer Experience weight is always a factor when building campervan. Hence, most RVs build Co. never use birch, which is ugly looking in comparison to veneer finishes. Run a search and see how well poplar with veneer finishes hold together so good that after 20 years, people move to another campervan project.
Perfect timing! Rebuilding our cabinet in a couple weeks and we’ve been looking around for packing cubes. Those latches 👌
🙌👍🙌
Very professional and well done! Thanks for showing this. You can't find this quality of work without paying big $$. Doing it yourself saved big!!!
Another amazingly informative video. I have "bookmarked" so many of your videos and am referencing for my van build. Surprisingly, most have nothing to do with electrical as I'm using a power bank. Y'all do great work and I loved the opening of this video!
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for the video. So good to see your wife included. Genius cable management.
Another awesome video! You guys seem to provide me with more great ideas just in the knick of time. Well done!
It's always super clean and meticulous construction.. 👍👍👍
This USB cable is cool idea. I’ll use that with next project.
Nice! Yeah, it's super handy. We had one in our old sprinter for pretty much the same purpose. I'm glad I've found cable chains, though, as the last time around we just let the wires dangle. 🤷😂
Excellent as usual, BRAVO !
Hey vincent lehmann, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Respect !! good job Sir
Hey 88corinutza, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Beautiful work Nate. Very good presentation and inspiring.
Hey Clint's Tiny Trailer Conversions, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Great job! It turned out really nice. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks great and wonderful explanation on how to build. Do you have links to the Led strips and associated components you recommend? (Track, diffuser, etc)
This looks great! Top quality video too. Only detail I'm not a fan of is the gap between the toe kicks of the two units - seems like a space destined to gather dirt!
Yeah, it'd be quite a bit harder to secure the cabinet to the L-Track on that side without that gap. A vacuum with a hose attachment will take care of any dirt that gets back there.
As a former cabinet maker, I dont understand why your putting a toe kick on all 4 sides of a cabinet? The toe kick only needs to be set in from the front, not all 4 sides. It should sit flush with the sides and back. That would also make the cabinet more stable.
The toe kicks needed to be inset on the sides so the brackets weren't protruding and the bathroom and storage cabinets could be mounted side by side. Plus, the toe kick on 'right' side of the cabinet is nice for when I'm spun around backwards working from the driver seat.
For the back, that's just how we did it. 🤷 I think there was a clearance issue with the lower L-Track and adding a toe kick on the back fixed that. I can't remember.
The cabinet is PLENTY stable since it's bolted to the floor and wall L-Track and will never be used when not bolted down.
Great looking cabinet.
Thanks, Larry!
Great stuff - I love how you guys approach things & hiw clear you are in your documentation. Couple of questions… 1. Why use kreg pocket screws on sides of drawers yet glue/nail bottom when you could glue/nail all of it (using corner clamps to establish square)? 2. Why do your toe-kicks not go all the way across the width of each unit?
Pocket holes & glue is stronger than finish nails & glue & since the bottoms of the drawers were 1/4" ply, we couldn't use pocket holes there.
Since the cabinets are modular and can be placed anywhere in the van, we wanted toe kicks on all sides so that no matter where we put the cabinets, we'd have space at the bottom.
@@EXPLORISTlife Perfect! Thankyou for explaining… I knew there would be good reasons.
Makes sense using nails for the 1/4” drawer base, since the alternative traditional approach of creating a groove for it to sit in would reduce space available (works fine if you use hidden undermount runners since you need that space anyway)
Thanks!
Hey, Will! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Great informational video. Awesome job. Thanks Don
Hey, Don Davis! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Question: which 12 volt outlet socket do you recommend?
My husband and I have built out a 2021 Mercedes Sprinter using your wiring guide. We took your advice and put in 12 volt outlet sockets and purchased 12 volt USB outlet plugs. The problem is the plugs have a tendency to wiggle when driving down the road and thus, the device we are charging does not get charged. Thank you in advance for your response. We find your videos inspiring, educational, and extremely helpful.
Question I have are you using a wall adapter to charge the phone or are you plugged right into the USB socket in the wall. You may have not purchased high quality items
A better way to attach the cable chain is ride along the bottom side of the drawer so that as the cable chain opens and closes it rolls flush against the side of the cabinet instead of making a weird loop underneath. You can even add a piece of L-bracket with a beveled edge to support as it rolls forward.
We tried that. It was not better, no. It was in the way of the cubes. The way we did it works great! 👍
You can prevent drilling blow-outs on plywood with good tape double layered or clamping a sacrificial piece of wood to the back side, check with other wood worker channels. But it does take extra time, so it's a balance.
For sure! We always do that when it's important.
@@EXPLORISTlife cool ya it just depend upon getting professional outcomes, as you can.
By the way I'm going over your solar stuff again and I know I will have some comments, to help you and me. No offence meant but I'm checking with many other sites and books etc., and some of your stuff is too specific to Victron, I will clarify. If you did a paperback book that I could markup, I would buy it! And I do have a lot of electrical experience just getting my mind around solar details, you've been very helpful, thanks!
Great! Yeah, I find that getting highly specific is the way I can teach the best. I'll write a book one of these days, but I just don't have enough hours in the day at the moment.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yep , the same here, my kids want me to do some videos, but I'm not there yet with solar, and your already a step above all around in the general quality that I'm doing, lol! But, I'm doing different stuff also with hybrid solar boats and Suburbans and stuff so I may, but I have to make shure, I'm correct in my advice etc.!
1 minute in, nice!
would you be willing to share the info on that 120v outlet with usb a and c ports? im building a camper now, and would love that style of outlets.
Excelente!
Another great video!! Can you please share the finished external dimensions of this cabinet? And maybe the same for the toilet cabinet too? Thx heaps!!!
Even better, you can just get the 3d models and cut list for these projects here: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/plans-and-diagrams/3d-files-project-templates/camper-van-cabinetry-plans-full-set/
Cabinet maker at one time
Those cabinets look awesome. The looks, functionality, practicality, really rugged in combination with the L-tracks. Thanks again for making this video! But what is the weight of each of those modular cabinet? I hope your not getting bored with the weight question. 😆 Ps those bags are an excellent idea as dividers
Thanks! I didn't grab a final weight of our cabinets. This one, in particular, was the lightest one (except for our upper cabinets) since it only had one drawer (drawers are heavy) and no doors (although doors aren't that heavy). The Butcher block countertop is definitely the heaviest part
Can you tell me what type of strip lighting you are using?
Hi do you have any plans you can sell for the kitchen units ?
Do you have a link for the LED light strips you used? Thanks!
Did I miss the part that shows the cabinets attaching to the floor track ?
Yep. It was in there. 😉
Great informative video as usual! Minute 5:29: can you provide a link to the cable chain shown?
Thanks! Sure! Cable chain: amzn.to/3zeKC9T
@@EXPLORISTlife Many thanks!
shouldn't the walls have been fixed ON the bottom?
Nah. That would have looked weird.
@@EXPLORISTlife i'm talking about strenght . u'll see in time
I just need them to last as long as the van, which they will do. Feel free to build your cabinets however you like, though. You don't need to armchair quarterback my cabinet construction. 🤭
Does it matter if the slides are mounted towards the top of the drawer rather than the bottom. Or would they interfered with what you mounted underneath the drawer
Flights?
@@EXPLORISTlifeusing Google Speech I just now reread my post it was horrible corrected it I didn't think you'd read them that fast drawer and slides
😂🤷🤣 Oh, I see. I don't believe it matters where the slides go on the drawer. Maybe actual cabinet makers have strong opinions about that, but I don't believe it matters.
*Check out the Camera Cubes and Tech Pouches we used here:* www.peakdesign.com/
Why do people still use birch plywood for campervans? Too heavy. Should be using poplar light weight instead with professional veneer finishes only 23 kg per sheet vs. birch 38kg and terrible look.
I think looks are subjective but I get what you mean. I've been looking into the plywood encapsulated foam boards but not to sure if they will be strong enough.
We use birch because it's lightweight, strong, looks good and is readily available.
Poplar is not as strong, so we'd have to use a thicker plywood to get the same strength at the joints plus it's simply not available at our local lumber yard and if I was going to have something shipped in, I would choose something with a cooler grain pattern like bamboo.
Ultimately, though, use whatever wood you like in your camper. There's really not a 'wrong' choice; just a bunch of personal preferences.
Vote for birch as well. It do handle quite well with bending. Birch itself’s density is tight, therefore it weights as well. Some had made lighter by saw holes there. And surely a lot depend abt planning, where, how much surface is really needed and so on.
If weight is your only factor, you shall not use plywood-built cabinets at all, you framebuild them with 1-1,5" sticks and use really thin sheets (appr. 5-6 mm) as a skin. Poplar is not as strong as birch and would require a thicker plywood.
@Vangeezer Experience weight is always a factor when building campervan. Hence, most RVs build Co. never use birch, which is ugly looking in comparison to veneer finishes. Run a search and see how well poplar with veneer finishes hold together so good that after 20 years, people move to another campervan project.