Our Yanmar Marine Diesel Engines were about to fail due to lack of maintenance.
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- čas přidán 26. 12. 2022
- We bought our catamaran sailboat in October of 2020. We immediately performed basic oil and filter change as well as the water impeller however we were told the other maintenance was "current". Now that we are preparing to start cruising we felt we needed to do deeper work and we are so glad that we did! We have uncovered many, many problems with our engines and we were forced to fix them.
WE NEED YOUR HELP TO CONTINUE!!
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#saltyescape #catamaran #sailing - Zábava
![Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hacks & Oil Change [Capable Cruising]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Sf02o0VyTwA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hacks & Oil Change [Capable Cruising]](/img/tr.png)
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Hi Cory.
Luv the T Shirt. " Live Long and Prosper."
David.
Suggestion- get a set of lefthand drills (HF $8.50) which you can use to drill out broken bolts and it actually loosens the bolt as you drill it. A set of bolt extractors, a tap and die set and PB Blaster would also be useful.
Hi Douglas, all great suggestions. I have most of those tools on board. The problem in this circumstance was, to replace that part was going to cost $2500. I am inexperienced so I would rather trust the people that do it often. If something like this were to happen while we were away from civilization I would’ve given it more effort myself. 😊
@@SaltyEscape Understand the circumstances. I had a rustedout clogged one on my gas Volvo Penta. I busted a head bolt and had to take off a lot more items to get the exhaust piece off. Had to LH drill out and retap myself, and it worked fine. My aftermarket exhaust piece was around $300 while the genuine Volvo Penta was nearly $2000. There are aftermarket items for your engines and some shops, like in UK, actually make welded up items for many marine diesels for not a lot of $s.
If possible, it's super important to get to know the owners before you buy used machinery and figure out if the are competent mechanically or not. And, if they DIY or not. You can tell a lot by the type of tools they have onboard too.
I completely agree! We knew of one of the previous owners who took great care of this boat. Unfortunately the people he sold it to did NO good for this boat. It appears that they hid lots of damage and problems!! They were very different folk.
Woop Woop! Getting it done! Can't wait til we can meet up in person!
I think you’re going to beat us there! But, the race officially starts in 1 week!
Congrats on the engine work. I recently completed similar work to our Cummins 6BT engine.
i am glad to see you got it fixed and they are running well. take care and have a great day
Thank you! Such a weight off our shoulders to have these running again. The video made it look easy… all told it took over 3 weeks. 😬
Glad you got it fixed. I had to drill out some bolts with an extractor on my truck once, that wasn’t fun
.Another step closer to cruising. All the best for the new year.
Exactly!
Good job, guys!
Hi Mandy, Thank you!
Nice work Captain!
Thank you!!
Looking good, Corey!
Thank you!!
Great job on those engines!
Thanks
Well done!!! Merry Christmas! Oh, what the next year will bring!!!
Ready or not… here we come! 😊
Love your video. I have been making videos documenting my 1 cylinder runaway Yanmar diesel. These types of videos have inspired me to make videos about my experience being a boater in Brooklyn NY on my channel. Cheers
Thank you! It’s my understanding that in a runaway diesel situation you should shut the fuel feed off. Is this correct? We have shut off valves very close to the helm. (Our tank is under the floor at the helm).
Cheers Corey
@@SaltyEscape Hey so in short - no. I unplugged my fuel tank during my runaway and my engine continued to fly away for over a minute because diesels are so efficient - it used every drop left in the line. There are two ways of stopping a runaway: suffocate the intake, or stop the ability of the engine to do compression. The latter is the best way to do this. On my engine, there is a lever on the top of the cylinder head. When you flip and hold this, it opens the exhaust valve in the engine and holds it open. This means the engine cannot do combustion properly, and stops. I highly recommend finding whatever decompression safety mechanism your engine has. Some diesel engines stop in normal operation through using the decompression lever (a pull wire goes to the helm). Worst case, you have to suffocate the intake. Becareful of any alternator belts when doing that. In the first video on my channel I show the symptoms of a runaway engine if you are curious.
Great! Thank you. I’ll check it out
@@SaltyEscape czcams.com/video/VN8WLFRUw-U/video.html your question inspired me to make a video about this topic - hope you enjoy it!
i would still get the orginal elbows welded they would be fine then but the new ones look excellent maybe try some injector cleaner in the tanks to help clean up your start they shouldnt hunt like the did after you swapped the elbows.
Hi Gavin, thanks for your feedback. I need some clarification on what you’re saying? Injector cleaner… the engines hunt? The Portside has a rolling idle at start up but when it warms up it will idle smoothly. I thought it may be the governor or maybe the idle is set slightly to low. Is that what you’re talking about? Thanks for your help! Corey
Amazing vidios
Thanks!
Bleated Merry Christmas Guys... and good work mate, those new elbows will/should last eh... grab a can of lanolin based lubricant spray (Lanox)and apart from the belt and pulleys spray lightly around any and all exposed metal including the alternator it is a gr8 rust inhibitor and will not eat plastic or rubber, especially once you get back to salt water.. if you get the belts that start to squeal puff some talcum powder (French chalk) on the belts too and and check for leaks and/or adjust to suit eh... Hope you Guys have a FUNtastic new year.. look forward to more Videos
Hi Ned, Thanks for all the good information! I’ve never heard of Lanox. I’ll check into it. I heave heard on Talcum powder on belts. I’ll pick some up before we leave! Cheers Corey
Just subscribed . I like your attitude.
One small tip.
Some people set their idle at slow thinking that that they are saving fuel.
There is almost no consumption difference between a fast idle and a slow idle.
Diesels like to run fast and hot.
They live longer with a bit of strenuous exercise.
All the best. Gary in Japan.
Hi Gary, Thank you! We were working on adjusting the idle last night. It’s just the port engine was set too low. We changed the fuel filters (upgraded to Raycor) hoping that would fix the idle problems but it didn’t so I dove into learning how to adjust it. It sounds much better now! Thank you! Corey
@@SaltyEscape GM 20 idle speed is between 825 and 875.
I would go for 900 in cold water. 850 in warm water.
Will warm up quickly and pump lots of nice warm oil.
Happy New Year to all of the family
gary
@@SaltyEscape The other thing about slow idle is how low the oil pressure drops. Typical oil pumps can barely keep up with volume demand at very low rpm. Demand increases with higher rpm but oil volume production increases more, so oil pressure rises with rpm.
You could use Rustoleum paint on those engine parts. And brush it on instead of spraying it on. You get better coverage and it is less expensive than aerosol cans. Heat is not an issue on water cooled marine engine parts as long as the water circulation is maintained.
Hi Michael, thanks for the tip! I’ll remember that for next time. Corey
Hi
Just wondering if the hanging cables on the solar panels are some new kind of art work!
Enjoyed the engine stuff too! 😂
Lol no…. I’m waiting for the wire cover to come in and then I’ll mount them permanently. Good eye! 😂
I’ll never understand why people paint over rubber hoses and things that shouldn’t be painted.
To hide potential problems…. Several hoses split open as I was removing them. 🙀
Well done. Don’t forget to change the hoseclamps, these are known to fail on Yanmar engines…
Hi Bart, Thank you and yep, I replaced them with new stainless. 😊 Cheers, Corey
To remove and replace hoses, give a heat gun a try. Then you don't have to pry on the hose and potentially cause damage. Experiment with the right amount of heat (time using the heat gun).
Good tip!
Oil , Filters & a clean engine , Clean exchanger & plenty of air = shell run for ever .
I hope so! Doing my best. 😊
Why is that inlet for the saltwater exhaust cooling into the exhaust elbow so vertical?
I would have thought that the water should be directed into the inlet at a 45 degree so that any splashing etc would not head towards the engine's head/valves?
Hi John, I’m afraid I don’t know…. I did notice the mixing elbows have an inner sleeve. Maybe that sleeve prevents the water back flow…??
Just a heads up Get some ceramic grease as when screwing bolts into alloy it will almost stop them seizing DO NOT USE anti seize grease as the copper in it will react with the alloy. If no ceramic grease just use mineral grease . Well done and you def correctly undid the bolts IE a little one way and then the other Good Job .PS I am not sure with a Yanmar but there maybe anodes in the engine cooling system so check those too.
Hi Howard, thanks for the information, I’m going to look further for an anode. I’m confident there is not one in the cooling system because I have had it completely disassembled however there may be another one in the engine somewhere near the sail drive. After you mentioned this I seem to recall seeing something mentioned about an anode in our Facebook owners group. Regarding the anti-seize… I definitely used anti-seize, I don’t know its composition but I’ll look. do you think I need to remove those bolts and re-coat them with ceramic grease? thanks again! Corey
@@SaltyEscape If you used copper anti seize on a stainless bolt into alloy I would remove them one at a time clean them with brake cleaner or similar and also spray it into the threaded hole and clean as much as you can out then re grease them with anything but a copper anti seize If the bolt was steel going into steel IE the engine block thats ok. Oh and always lubricate S/S bolts and threads IE the bottle screws on the rigging
or they will bind up and you will never get them undone once tightened up as the threads stretch. Good luck and well done
@@SaltyEscape
Because the product prevents seizing and unpleasant sounds it is ideal for brake blocks, exhaust systems, wheel nuts and machine parts. Because, in contrast to traditional copper grease, Ceramic Grease does not contain metal, it is not conductive
Great work brother. How did you clean the exchanger?
Thank you! I soaked it overnight in barnacle buster…. I actually used the West marine concentrated barnacle buster because it was cheaper. I cut the top off of a 2 liter bottle and used it to submerge it… I was able to submerge 2/3 in the two liter bottle so I turned the heat exchanger over a few times. I was very impressed with barnacle buster… that thing came out looking new! 😊
Exhaust elbows have a short life. Five years is not unusual. The stainless ones will rot too because the exhaust gases lack the oxygen that protects the stainless. Pull them and check them every 2 or 3 years.
Hi guys! Thank you so much for letting me know. I will be keeping a close eye on these engines. 😉
kind of thinking those two alternators should be matched, or am i wrong? i dunno.. i'm new to this stuff.. lol :)
That’s a good thought… maybe in some circumstances however our engines are independent of each other.
@@SaltyEscape so alternators from each engine only charge thier own starting battieres? not charging your main power storage? mainly because normally, if a dual charging system has imbalanced inputs, you'll cause the lower rated input to be pulled up by the higher rated input. this is where isolation comes in to prevent this from happening.
@@SaltyEscape if the engine alternator is only charging the start battery, then WHY ALL THE AMPS?! lol. just saying.
Hey Dan, It’s not only charging the starter batteries. We have 2 Victron Orion DC to DC chargers to charge our DIY 1400 aH Lithium battery bank. Remember, we have two independent engine systems. Each has its own starter battery so therefore we can use two separate Victron Orion smart chargers for the overflow amps. Does that make sense?
We are bringing in an extra 400 W per engine into our LiFePo4 battery bank. And the icing on the cake is the system is autonomous. We start the engines, the alternator recharges the starter battery and then automatically starts charging our lithium battery bank if needed. 😉
@@SaltyEscape holy cow. ok. thanks for taking the time to respond. looks like i have some previous videos to catch up on. :)
How often are you posting?
Can we have at least every other week plz
I’m hoping for weekly now! Maybe the occasional “extra” video concerning products…. We have a few things we are test piloting. 😉
@@SaltyEscape engines look 👍
A boat is a hole in the water where you throw money!
B.O.A.T. Break Out Another Thousand
Certainly feels that way sometimes.
Obligatory not a Diesel mechanic my uneducated guess regarding your "honkers" is that it creates a slightly positive pressure environment smoothing out your exhaust pressure and removing the highs and lows in essence it chokes the engine slightly. The same principal on water systems where you have a reservoir bottle. Of course I could be speaking Bo**ucks but seems like this is what it could be.
Lol. I think you’re right. Becky was entertained with the name… Honkers. 🤪
If I was you, I would take out of the water those electrical wires, ( Power lines)
If you have any small cut in then then all hell will happen.
It’s a constant battle for us to keep them out. We’re unplugging soon.
"Propellor driven Fighter jet"???
Lol. 🤷♂️ he calls it a fighter jet. I don’t know anything about aviation.