Review: Are commercial build surfaces worth it?
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 03. 2016
- Is it time to replace your painter's tape and Kapton build surface with one of the "professional" options?
3DEez 3d-eez.com/
3DLac (couldn't find a link...)
Printafix (coming soon with a better recipe) aprintapro.com/
Coropad corotechnology.com/english/cor...
ZebraPlate and ZebraSkin printinz.com/
PEI sheets 🛒 geni.us/cgp6ciQ
Music is Different Heaven - Far Away (Phantom Sage Remix) [NCS Release] • Different Heaven - Far...
🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! / @themeltzone
👐 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! / toms3dp - Věda a technologie
I love your scientific method with repeatable parameters. That's ESSENTIAL for this sort of review. You're still the king, my friend.
Yep Joe, that's good.😉
+Thomas Sanladerer This is why you are the 3D Printing Oracle Thomas!
if he would print 10 test for every setting then we could conclude anything, otherwise there is not enought data
Hideki Shinichi no it’s not, scientists don’t do every test 10 times. where is your research that shows 10 tests is better then 3, or even enough tests?
I would appreciate a 2019 revision of this topic - what new materials do we have? And what about buildtak and it’s clones?
Also, not just buildtak, but some underrated plates like the free one with every spool of overture filament, and I have used it for a while, and it works amazingly well. I would suggest if you are looking for new buildplate, and filament too.
I have tried several solutions: hairspray, BlueTak, PrintInZ plate and finally a sticked to PEI sheet :) I'm using it on top a 3mm glass sheet in an Ultimaker original with a 24V silicone heater. I also closed the print chamber but did not install any chamber heating yet. My experience is the PEI sheet with the fast 24V heater works very well - I honestly recommend this solution to everybody who struggles with bed adhesion.
When you try the alternative surfaces I have one for you. I print on 5mm glass, cold. I sand the glass with coarse sandpaper. Then coat with gluestick. Then spray water on the gluestick and distribute it evenly all over my glass. I let it dry completely then sand it again with coarse sandpaper to scuff up the glue surface. This coating will last for months and besides the occasional touchup or resurface never has to be replaced. Just wet, redistribute, dry and sand and to be good as new again! I make huge objects like this. My bed is 9 inches by 14.5 inches. Love your videos. I always hit like!
Awesome video as always Tom. I've just adhered a thin ultem (pei) sheet to my aluminium bed last night and this has made me quite excited to test it out with some large prints.
Just got a PEI Sheet and I am loving it. PLA on a heated bed with the PEI sheet clipped on. Works great.
I have a TAZ 5 which comes with a PEI coating on the build place. I found that in a short period of time that the PEI stared to lift off the build plate, and developed small holes in the areas that had lifted off. The edges of these holes crystalized and rapidly enlarged with use, as well as ruining the
Finally I removed the PEI coating and started printing with a variety of adherents. Of all those I tried on the now boron glass build place, I found that "Aussie pressure spray" (borrowed from my wife) worked the best. Having little to no water it dried the quickest and certainly provided the best gluing surface.
I am a relative newcomer to your show, but find your approach to be in tune with my general personality. Likely because I was trained in the physical sciences.
I regret that I can not name you to get a cut from my Amazon purchases as I have already dedicated that to the EFF. You might think about a Patreon account. Your shows have saved me a great deal of money and time. More importantly they lead me into areas to think about. I be more than happy to find a way to help reimburse you for your terrific work.
This video was great. There are a lot of different print adhesion aids popping up now , and it's hard to know which are good,bad,or just okay,and under different circumstances. Thank you for testing these out and sharing your finding , and I'm sure myself as well as many others would appreciate a video on other adhesives that may work well under different usage cases.
I really love your methodology, please do the same with the non-commercial build surfaces!
I would like to see these in actual comparison to painters tape, pva glue and hair spray
Yeah, this deserves to be a comparison with lots and lots of entries.
Yes, I would love to see another video with tape etc.
Hello. It's been a long time since your last video, great that your still in these tutorials, and as 3Dprinting nerd said you did great by showing all the details, works great for me. Thanks, hope for MakerMuse comment on this too.
I have tested a regular PETG with a coropad on a non-heated bed and I am very happy with the results. Prints stick better compared to using a glue stick and there is no mess to clean afterwards. Longevity is still unknown but so far I have printed around 10 parts on the same place without any damage to a coropad.
Interesting comments about printing in cold basement. Ive just brought my printer to freezing Lithuania (where im working) and have been having a nightmare getting ABS to stick. Air temp in garage was about 10c at most.
Simple fix - put a polythene cover over printer. Amazingly simple. no warping after that.
My new design printer will be enclosed with internal temp regulation.
Thomas - Great channel.
Tom, great video! I would like to see a rundown of the standard methods for another video (ie. Blue painters tape, kapton tape, etc.). I personally use a piece of plate glass with Aquanet hairspray on top of a heated bed, and I have had great results with PLA. Thanks for another great video!
love the amount of detail, and typical German precision of your reviews, and suggestions. Reminds me of Consumer Reports here in the States.
I was hoping to see Printbite in this comparison as well. Looking forward to part two :D
Really, really good review style. informative, to the point, witty.
I am very curious about that delta in the background - i'd personally love some videos on delta kinematics, pitfalls, advantages, etc. And they just look cool when moving about.
The 3M 468 Tape itself IS awesome to print onto. I have printed on 2 sided sticky 3m transfer tape, stripped the glue and printed on the plastic, stripped the plastic and printed on the glue.
If you are always careful and shave off an object the plastic surface lasts a long long time and is very uniform. You can also sand it down by just scraping the heck out of it. The problems you have are things sticking TO it not pulling off. So, I make it slick for easy removal.
I found a HUGH roll of this stuff at a scrap yard where they just gave it away because noone wants a clear laminate on a countertop...
I like it because it is awesome and free...
I know it's and old video... but great test! As always! Coropad is the worst out of the bunch, we had nothing but trouble with it, replacing it every 20 prints or so.(my opinion)Thomas, I'm surprised you didn't test the Filaprint surface by Filafarm . We use it for quite some time now with a bunch of different printers and it outperformed any other surface we have used before. It is not cheap and works best at 67 degrees but it lasts. We have one that is 3 years old and it still rocks. The best part is, when the surface cools down the parts just pops up. I'm addicted to it :)
Thanks Thomas!
For PLA, I've had extremely good luck with 3M Scotch Masking tape, (not packing tape.) The problem I was having with almost all of the blue tapes was that the blue tape would get a good adhesion to the print, but the print would lift the tape from the bed. I haven't had that problem with the masking tape. I may have to replace it every couple of prints, but it's also significantly less expensive than the equivalent blue tape. I don't recommend it as a solution for ABS, and don't know how well it would work with PETG.
This experience was primarily on my printrbot metal simple, w/o a heated bed. I Find it's equally able to hold the pla print on a heated bed. One trick I used with the non-heated beds was to "scratch" the tape down so that you could see the color of the surface change where it was closer to the print bed.
From my own experience with a couple of off brands, and from what others have noted, the 3M Scotch Masking tape is what to look for. The surface of some of the others seems to be treated with something to keep the tape from sticking to itself, but it also doesn't help the PLA stick to the tape either.
I don't think it's as 'necessary' on a heated bed, but until I find a more permanent solution, I expect to be using it, or abs juice for my pla or abs prints (alternatively.)
Thanks for the video, I'll have to go through it some more to decide what might work best long term for me.
Another option is MagHold which is a spring steel sheet with kapton on the bottom and a printable surface on top. It's held in place by magnets in the aluminum plate so it can be quickly removed, flexed to remove parts, and reinstalled. I bought it but haven't tried it yet, however it's gotten good reviews.
if you do another video can you compare surfaces like g10, glass, aluminum... things like that? I know some companies have g10 beds for abs prints and I hear it sticks well but that is inside a temp controlled chamber!
I have a "Cocoon Creates Mini" with the nonheated bed. I find that placing a lamp next to the bed helps to heat the bed before I start printing. I have had limited success with hairspray and blue painter tape to assist with print adhesion. I am looking at building a cover to go over the 3D printer to help maintain temperature, especially during the first print layer. I have found that even having a ceiling fan on the low setting can cool the print and affect the print adhesion.
So is Coropad... the exact same as buildtak? All the chinese printers are coming out with that surface now. Another really interesting one is G10 - the surface the Robox and Cubicon Single uses. TOTALLY useless cold, but I am amazed how well it works for ABS when heated up. Plus yeah, once cold they just pop off.
G10 is almost identical to FR4. Difference is that FR4 has a flame retarder which makes it UL94-V0. Not sure this makes a difference in hotplates, but I doubt it. The type of release film that they use in pressing might makes a difference though. But that would apply to both, FR4 and G10. But I guess your deeper questions was that you like to see them included in the test. Me too.
Excellent video! I do wish you had thrown a few of the common ones in the mix like glue sticks hairspray and painters tape for comparison. Especially when I can see in this video how easy these more expensive materials come apart. My personal combo for adhesion is 3inch wide masking(NOT painters tape) tape with the elmers disappearing purple glue sticks. Tape lasts 10 prints at least and the glue stick takes seconds to clean off with water.
Unfortunately none of the surfaces works well with ABS. I have no good experience with Buildtak. It sticks too well, either ruining the print when removing and/or ripping the builtak in pieces. I went back to my PET tape/ABS juice wich works best. PLA and UHU stick is still very good. Very good review. Always a pleasure to visit this channel.
I really like the Zebra Plate. It sticks well, but I can remove it and flex it to remove the part. I flex it so the corners are up and reinstall. The clips pull the edges down again and it is flat again. PLA at 60 and ABS at 100. I print full bed parts with no issues.
Nicely compared. ;) Why the BuildTak is not there with others? I am testing it right now on Alu bed and it looks very useful (mainly for PLA).
Great Video, Any reason why Buildtak was not included? I personally don't use it but it seems like a very popular surface prep on the internetz..
Great job, but one quick question though, you mention it but it's not in the comparison, why isn't buildtak in this review? Thanks and keep up the great work
Nice review. For me 3DLAC completely changed 3D printing. From picking designs to be easily printable and babysitting the printer through its first layer - and often walking away disappointed -, I went to printing just about anything, even prints with 99% support on the first layer, big blocky surfaces, curly nightmares, ... Just spray on a layer, start the print and walk away ( yes, of course I still watch the first layer ;-) )
It made 3D printing so much more reliable. My filaments of choice are Polymaker Polylite and Polymax ( which used to always warp ) and my beds are glass at 50C. It can leave a layer on other parts of the printer but wipes off easily with a damp cloth.
Would love to include PrintBite and Filaprint as well. Great job though!
Thomas,
Would love an update of this subject! Been looking at the German FilaPrint but find it hard to not think "if it sounds too good to be true..."
when reading about some of the new materials from different companies.
Love the videos!
Very high quality! Please more.
I am interested in a review on bed layers that were not intended for 3D printing :-).
I use a heated glass pan. Sometimes i have to put a bit of white glue/water layer for nylon.
That's it... i print everything possible (professionally), and only had issues once. Our cheapest printers are Ultimaker's 2+/E+. Those work great.
Wieder mal ein tolles video. du hast die Filaprint von Filafarm leider nicht dabei gehabt. Hat mich absolut begeistert. alles haftet und nach Abkühlen des Druckbettes löst sich der druck von alleine. Weiter so Thomas
Really well done Review! Good Job!
Coropad sounds quite amazing, as does PEI :)
PEI especially sounds pretty much perfect :)
Also polyurethane foam (PIR?) can be used as sacrificial bed, and since it melts easily, you can just "ram" your hotend into it, ignoring completely bed leveling etc. or so i hear :)
Got to test it out! :)
I think this topic needs to be addressed again, especially now that the zebra surface is no longer available. The lamination of my plate finally failed after nearly 3 years of heavy use, and now I am desperately trying to find an alternative replacement for my abs prints, but so far nothing works quite as well. I really dislike using an interface like glues/sprays and it just makes the entire process more messy and more cleanup before I can deliver the print to a customer.
I'm using 3dlac on removable glass sheets, best thing I've found so far. I just spray them away from the printer, and tada. Even PETG the bane of my print life sticks to it perfectly. I find when the prints cool they all come off very easily for the reason Thomas stated, it pulls that 3dlac residue with it.
YMMV, but it's working for me.
Im printing pla on heated glas. For me sugar Walter works just fine. Its pretty cheap and everyone have some sugar at home. I prepared a small bottle for printing and added a little bit of salt for conservation. While printing it smells a bit like candy factory and taste pretty sweet (just recommended if you use plastic without any harm substance). It's easy to apply and to remove. I coat my surface every time before printing.
Thank you for this nice video. I have been printing with PETG (my favorite filament) on PEI surface and it really sticks. I never tried cold but when it is heated to 60 degrees Celsius it sticks perfect and very forgiven at the first layer. I also printed with PLA and ABS again with heated bed they also stick perfect, sometimes too perfect that I have hard time to remove them.
I recently got a Zplate and have had great luck printing PLA on it cold. ABS starts out great with a bed heated to 80c but once it wants to start to warp seems to come off too easily and ruins the print. I have only been printing on it for a few days so could just be a matter of tuning in the first layer height and temp. Nylon I could not get to stick at all.
When it comes to printing on one surface that sticks every time I go to the blue tape with the disappearing purple glue stick.... however just yesterday I found that you can get the same glue in a spray bottle!!!! I grabbed that up and am going to give it a try.
Time for an update! Great info!
A good "disposable" print surface is automotive window tint sanded with finde grit and with a layer of ABS juice applied. This will stick to quite literally anything but the film tends to tear off when trying to remove it.
PEI on the other hand is my favourite so far as a permanent solution. Incredibly robust, sticks well to most things when heated (including PET not sure why Tom couldn't get it to work!). Only drawback is ninjaflex/semiflex type material. They stick WAY too well on it to the point that removing it is a massive pain. The best solution for this is to have a roll of kapton on hand. Apply a layer of kapton OVER the PEI when printing flexibles, account for the extra z height in the slicer and voila.
Good to know info here. I have been struggling with the best adhesive method. I tried the glue stick that came with my Prusa Research Printer but I could never replicate the original build plate stickiness. I tried Purple Elmers glue which works surprisingly well but I found myself having to redo the plate often and spot touch ups resulted in non sticking prints. Currently I have been using PET film in the from of window tint. This stuff is crazy good with a wipe down of ABS slurry. I have to stick parts in the freezer for a few minutes otherwise its impossible to release from the bed. My issues he been creasing started at the edge of the build plate and then getting this raised crease going across. This was due to leaving some of the film overhang and when heated it would ripple and then start to pull up. I believe I solved this by cutting the film just shy of the edge of the build plate. The great thing is if you avoid using a scrapper the PET film stays in great shape and if the build plate gets too much abs slurry build up I can just hit it with some acetone and start over.
Ive had great success printing PETG onto a PEI surface when heated to 80 degrees
I've had great luck with eSun and Gizmodorks PETG on PEI. I occasionally wipe the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. Skin oils seem to be the culprit.
A straight nylon is the only thing that hasn't really worked for me on PEI. I've used ABS, ABS with anti-shrink additives, ABS/nylon blend. HIPS, PLA, flex PLA and ASA filaments on PEI just fine. I do use an enclosure, heated for ABS and related plastics.
I've been using elmers glue stick for a year and never had a problem with it on my heated glass buildplate. It actually works too well since I really need to coold down the build plate to the printed model off the platform. I'm a bit suspicious with some of these companies offering these more "professional" options as these products were mostly derived from diy options we've been using for a while like the glue and hairspray.
Is it possible that you will do anything else on that water-cooled hotend you mentioned? (Not the opam)
Hi Tom,
That was an amazing review, you took the trouble of ordering all these solutions although it is easy to lose track of everything that's happening for bed adhesion on 3d printing. Very useful and very balanced analysis.
However, it really bothers me that you do not use a glass for 3d printing. I also review bonding solutions for my channel in brazilian portuguese (I am expanding videos to english now, hope to someday have some useful material to present in english) and there is an absolute directive I always follow: always use glass. It might decrease the temperature a little (10-15°C for 3mm glass), but it straightens the not-so-straight aluminum or fiberglass and is cheap and disposable, maintainable and cleanable, preventing wear and tear of the heatbed (and you can also easily detach it after printing to wash the part off or clear the glass). You also prevent the stress of forcing the other components of the printer when detaching the 3d printed parts.
Also, since polycarbonate is so good that it is worthwhile to fight with it to get good prints, why not also review 3d print surfaces for the most difficult filaments? Like POM / poliacetal, which is hot right now - and some people say you have to use laywood, cork or wood compensates to get it right.
And another suggestion: some people have had a very successful adhesion case by coating their glasses with polaseal, the plastification material. Though this is more a DIY than commercial solution, what do you think about testing it too?
As usually very nice and informative.
I have been using Zebra Plates by PrintInZ since their original inception back in 2014 (i think?) when they were known as "NinjaPlates". I have had every generation of the plates ever made and have been happy with the results.
I use them daily to print customer orders (mostly PLA with a heated surface), although I do print PLA on a cold bed and ABS/TPE/TPU/PET+ regularly with heat. The Zebra Plates allow me to easily print objects with large surface areas and simply give the plate a "flex" to pop them loose. Without the flexible build surface, I would have extreme difficulty removing some of my inventions from the print surfaces
It's fine to scratch up your own prints, but when you're printing parts for customers, you don't want to damage any layers of the print, especially the base. These plates make it so easy to remove the plate, flex and pop off the print, and put it back on to print another part
In addition to the Zebra Plates, I also always use a little bit of glue from a glue stick to increase adhesion. With these two combined I rarely ever have a failed print on my three FlashForge Creator Pro's (Combined print time = 48000 hours, over 15000 kilometers of filament printed).
When it comes to printing PLA/TPU/TPE/ and PET, I won't consider any other build surface than Zebra Plates with a touch of elmer's glue stick.
Call me a fanboy, I don't care hahaha - I've got hundreds of successful prints on 5 plates in over two years
Great video!!!!
Have you had a chance to review Wolfbite? If so, would you recommend 3D EEZ or Wolfbite for printing large objects in PETG?
I like kapton tape. It does not like dust so I usually cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. I recommend making an enclosed box for a printer if it is an open design. I have not used rubbing alcohol since I made a box for my open designed printr bot simple metal.
PEI works perfectly for me with PETG -- excellent adhesion at 60C for small and 70C for larger prints.
+kazolar good to know will try that setting when I get my PEI sheet in, thanks for sharing!
I fell like petg always wants to rip stuff out of pei
Nice work Thomas,
Cheers
Great review I had my eyes on a zebra plate for some time. Im skeptically about anything with aluminium under it since my 40cm diamter alubed with hairspray is warping like crazy after half a year if use. You delta in the background has a big alubed as well, how any opinions on alu warping?
cheers
I just found your channel via this video, very informative! Do you have a video on printing only in ABS? As in, best practices when printing ABS? Also, subscribed. Great video!
I tried a a couple of the surfaces that you mention. Wasn't impressed. Glue stick seems to do the trick most of the time otherwise its blue tape and glue stick (depending on the brand of filament).
Thanks for the great review!
Toss in glass for your next round of tests. I'm using a piece of tempered glass plate (intended for retail store displays) with a thin layer of purple Elmer's glue stick. Everything sticks (PLA, ABS, PETG). I only have to reapply the glue after a few dozen prints where I see the haze starting to clear. Prints pop off themselves when the glass cools.
I'd be interested to see a comparison done of plain window glass, tempered glass, and borosilicate. Is the cost of the latter really worth the money?
So recently I made the move from a heater PCB and glass to a silicon heater and 6mm aluminium plate. Now I'm haveing problems with adhesion again. Do you have any advice?Also thank you very much your videos are brilliant and really helpful.
+Thomas Sanladerer Are you aware of Wolfbite by Airwolf 3D? It's the closest thing to a magic bullet I've found for ABS. I use it on heated window glass and the result is perfectly flat, mirror smooth bases even when printing ABS torture tests. I did find the glass needed to be exceptionally clean for the first application and it seemed like a couple initial applications were required for maximum effectiveness. Now however, I only reapply every week or two. they have several formulations and I'm using the ABS one however I find that PLA and PET/G filaments work great as well provided I run a 60-70C bed temp. The coolest thing IMO is that it holds ferociously when the bed is heated but once it cools you literally pick the part off the bed regardless of surface area or geometry. Try it out if you get a chance!
I've found the standard pva glue to work extremely well with PLA, as others have, and I'd be interested to hear if this print surface will work for any other material. some of the new taulman nylon bridge is supposed to work on it as well...
I can't recommend PEI more. I've had such great experience with PEI that I would never go back to anything else. Laminate to your bed, sand with 600 grit once every 50 prints and clean with alcohol/acetone depending if you use ABS...and just print -- it works! Even with flexible materials, use a little glue stick to make adhesion less sticky -- even Nylon works -- it's awesome.
i've had great success printing stupid large rectangles in pla and pet on an unheated acrylic plate with 3dlac
PETG, maybe? I know it's a bit different from PET.
A video guide on printing with PETG would be cool too. I've gotten it to work somewhat, but I still struggle with overhangs and such.
What I use 99% of the time on all my printers (all have heated beds) is PEI sheet. Additionaly I spray a little bit of Dimafix spray on it every several prints. I noticed there's really no need to reaply it every time.
This way everything sticks without a problem - abs, pla, pet/g, hips, pc, nylon.. I clean my beds maybe every 20 prints and then reaply coat of dimafix spray. Never had any issues with filament sticking to the bed this way, unless it was z height or line width issue. This way I can also run first layer rather fast and it still sticks perfectly.
I came up with this idea after petg stuck to PEI too much several times and was impossible to remove without damaging PEI, so logic behind it was to have some kind of coating between heatbed and print. I guess in a way this would also work on any heated surface.. But you know what they say, if it ain't broken don't fix it.
A glass surface cleaned with glass-cleaner works very good, rinse very good with hot water, No warping at all, sticks like hell..! 100% success..! (PLA). Dry with paper, not with a towel or other cloth. There are always some soap leftovers from the washing machine in a towel. It reverses the de-greasing from the glass-cleaner.
Please compare/test other materials as well. I generally use Aquanet on glass on a heated bed. I used to use blue painter's tape before that. But super cheap tape from the dollar-store did not work.
This would be great for a 2020 follow-up if that fits your schedule Tom!
what are the tools you use to remove the prints ? not the hand tools :-) but the metal blade like ones ?
I have tried so many solutions including many here and many not here and my best results and most pleasurable experience has definitely come from the zebra plate on my printrbot simple metal. Its an absolutely brilliant product imo with the best service in the market. I can wholeheartedly recommend it and im not affiliated with them in any way shape or form. I just want to share my experience and hopefully help someone else out there who was searching like i was for a consistent and enjoyable solution. :)
ps. i also used wolfbite on my glass plates. the original solution was good initially until it began to destroy my glass plates, probably due to the compound breaking down over time but they sent me a new formula (that i have yet to try) to use and if it work anything like the original did in the beginning, then its probably the best solution i know of for glass hands down.
Thanks for a great video, helps a ton.
Thomas, is it possible to print large PETG parts without heated bed?
You should defenatly do the same thing for blue painters tape, etc. What is your personal preferance for bed adhesion?
It's been a year now... did you ever make that video with the standard hack materials like glue sticks and painters tape? I'd love to see that!
Great Vídeo! , please do one for the DIY print surfaces!
Die Hausmittelchen (Kapton, Bluetape, Uhu-Stick) wären auch ganz interessant. Außerdem soll die Filaprint Platte von Filafarm ganz gut sein (vermutlich auch PEI).
great review.
i have the luxe problem that i have bought a sticker plotter of refine720 secondhanded and with it i became a big rol of the paper kind of transfer tape to transfer plotted stickers, (60cm wide)
and this is actually the same as paint-masking tape but extremely wide.out of that rol i cut a nice complete bed covering sheet.
and when it"s to damaged i remove it, and if it was on a long time i have to use some white spirit or terpentine or perhaps acethon, something like that to remove the remaining glue and pieces of tape.
this i use on the heated aluminum bed of an anet a6.
but i have to admit, i still used PLA only on this moment.
If the print gets stuck maybe your initial layer thickness is too thin? Try making it a bit thicker by an extra 0.1mm and give that coropad another try.
I mainly print PETG on a PEI bed, and have no issues with adhesion (@55c)
+Pigeon FX Yea, I too print PET on PEI without issues, maybe try slower first layer print? 0.2mm height 30mm/s 65°C works fine for me...
I'm totally new to 3D printers so forgive my ignorance but I have a question, have vacuum beds ever been tried on 3D printers?
have you ever tried etched glass surface? there is an etching cream used for crafts?
What about Pertinax and FR-4?
I personally print on borosilicate glass with hairspray. It just works.
Also there's the (infamous?) FilaPrint which is pretty popular.(At least here in Germany.)
Grüße aus Hessen ^^
thanks for this overview and test!
I searched for PLA on amazon these days and i'm very confused what to buy, the market seems to be grown a lot. i can't find a state of the art vendor specific comparison anywhere.
i'm not sure if it's too expensive for a video to buy all this different stuff. ^^ the mentioned blue tape seems to be not as trivial to buy either and some tapes are very small
This is fantastisch.
As to your query about test tapes, and other non-purpose coatings, I think it would be a good video to see. There are still a lot of old school people who swear by their painter's tape.
As a follow on to that, I would put together a comparison of products from the two videos.
Assume a fairly generic setup (use your Prusa i3, as the more common config), then test the best glue or coating product against the best tape from the same config. (just thinking out loud ;) )
How can you say the spray was surprisingly good when the video shows the curling at the end of the print?
I use oracle graphic sticker 651M series work very well for ABS, if u let printed parts cold down below 40, the part can remove easily without damage the sticker. those sticker easy to remove without leaving any glue on surface. I hv tried many sticker, cheap china sticker, 3M 3630 series and many. problem is the sticker very difficult to stick perfectly on bed.
I was asking someone about what they use for adhesion and they said they use water mixed with salt. They just lightly brush it on and let it dry. Does that actually work or was he messing with me
Hi,
great video! i think you should do the other surfaces you mentioned. If you keep the same methodology, you could even compare each batch of tests against each other.
There is a parameter that i take into account for printing : ease of use.
Unless i want to print a very specific part in a difficult to print material such as polycarbonate, i am interested in the ease of setup. Indeed, if some technique requires 15 minutes of fiddling with stuff before printing, it's impractical for small prints. In my case, i try to make my designs easy to print with no support, no raft, or no special surfaces (which is why i stick to PLA and some nylons).
I think in general that should be a factor in evaluating a surface : is it for everyday simple prints or is it the mother of all print surfaces that you use for the occasional tricky part?
Anyway, i really would be interested in more videos on this topic (Will it stick?), with more surfaces and more materials. It would be a good idea for beginers, as you can order spools of materials with indications on temperature, but less often on print surface. Taulman3D tells you how to print on glass and what to add, but says nothing about other surfaces. Will the new tech-G stick to surface X or Y? only way to know is to try, ending with a useless spool if it doesn't work :) With such a series of videos, it could just be a reference guide :)
i found melted ABS in Acetone works really good with a brim and if you have to print a part that is high and narrow, like a plane wing... after several hours you will get some warping but not much
the problem is higher in the print, you get cracking and that is unsolvable...
Not surprisingly, a heated bed is our best friend to get adhesion.
Did you test ABS juice on a cold/hot bed?
HI Tomcould you do the same test with the following, Blue tape, packing tape, a sheet of Acrylic , Mirror glass, PVA glue, Phenolic paper (PCB material),
Do you make any sanding to the aluminium to make sitck?
Awesome information. Where can I get the PEI coated aluminum build plate?
got it. Thanks
I am not in any way a specialist but from the beginning i use a PVA / white wood glue diluted 1:1 with water/ spread on bed with a sponge and kept together with the sponge in a hermetic jar. Costs 2 euro. Lasts Forever. I refresh it a bit once a week or 2 printing 24/7. Sticks perfectly. Difficult to unglue when bed is hot and flat parts. Easy when bed is colder.
Basically PVA+Raft =100% success rate. I dont know why one anyway will print ever without raft/and support/ if he wants dimensional correct parts
Boyan Silyavski me too, clean with ipa, undiluted pva. no problem so far.
I used buildtak myself, it worked way too well, but in fairness I didn't have the most level bed at the time which is completely necessary (was a bit warped because of tensioning)
Do the extra materials
I'd also like to see the liquid materials ontop of the solid ones shown