I really like your shop especially the Lucas HBM and the Shaper. I'm just running a Bridgeport EZ Trac 2 axis cnc mill and a Webb Takasawa 12x30 Engine Lathe, soon to be moving into my garage from my shop i've been running since 1994 , so i will be basically retired but like to tinker around making parts, i'm soon to be 77 and have been making parts since 1967, i started out on a Lucas HBM and a G& L HBM, and also a vertical boring & various shapers too after finishing my apprentiship. Keep up the good work and video's.
Doozer sent me. Would love to see your setup of a rotary table to do some milling. I'm learning the ropes with a K&T 2D rotary head mill. Good luck in your business!
Don't see that you need to match the level of your work to the level of the vise. Even if the vise isn't level front to back, leveling the part only will give you repeatable setups
If you are trammed true to the vise/table, but your mill is not level, then you get a bit of a problem. You could drill/mill at the difference of the machine level. The old timer I learned from had perfect tram, but his mill was leaning back a bit. So he adjusted his level to match the tram.
Assume the mill is out of level by 20 degrees (high in the front and low in the back). Spindle trammed true to the vise. With a workpiece mounted in a square collet block, as you have shown, set up like you did but with the level dead on level on the collet block. Make your first cut. Loosen vise and rotate workpiece 90 degrees and level dead on level again. Make second cut. Second cut will be 90 degrees from the first cut. Rinse and repeat. As long as the first cut does not have to be parallel to another location on the workpiece you are good to go. Try it you'll like it.
I really like your shop especially the Lucas HBM and the Shaper. I'm just running a Bridgeport EZ Trac 2 axis cnc mill and a Webb Takasawa 12x30 Engine Lathe, soon to be moving into my garage from my shop i've been running since 1994 , so i will be basically retired but like to tinker around making parts, i'm soon to be 77 and have been making parts since 1967, i started out on a Lucas HBM and a G& L HBM, and also a vertical boring & various shapers too after finishing my apprentiship. Keep up the good work and video's.
Thank you.
Great info Josh, very handy, thanks..
Great tip, I love this type of video as it is good to learn something new. Thanks
Doozer sent me. Would love to see your setup of a rotary table to do some milling. I'm learning the ropes with a K&T 2D rotary head mill. Good luck in your business!
He is a good guy! Someday I may have to work on stuff on the rotary and dividing head. Congrats on the 2D. Would love to have one.
@@TopperMachineLLC thank you, absolutely loving it so far!
when your machine oils get thick and gloopy then its too cold to work...... Thanks for sharing
Just subscribed, thanks for the tips.
Don't see that you need to match the level of your work to the level of the vise. Even if the vise isn't level front to back, leveling the part only will give you repeatable setups
If you are trammed true to the vise/table, but your mill is not level, then you get a bit of a problem. You could drill/mill at the difference of the machine level. The old timer I learned from had perfect tram, but his mill was leaning back a bit. So he adjusted his level to match the tram.
Assume the mill is out of level by 20 degrees (high in the front and low in the back). Spindle trammed true to the vise. With a workpiece mounted in a square collet block, as you have shown, set up like you did but with the level dead on level on the collet block. Make your first cut. Loosen vise and rotate workpiece 90 degrees and level dead on level again. Make second cut. Second cut will be 90 degrees from the first cut. Rinse and repeat. As long as the first cut does not have to be parallel to another location on the workpiece you are good to go. Try it you'll like it.