Czech Sandstone: Scary but EPIC
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- This time we're on the Czech side of the Elbtal, which features some absolutely amazing, but also psychologically challanging sport climbing. Great times!
Czech Sandstone: Scary but EPIC by Mani the Monkey
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Now consider that this is actually called a “sport climbing” area by some sandstone climbers. When you get to the more traditional Czech sandstone areas - Czech paradise/Adršpach thats where the psychological terror starts :D One bolt every 20 or so meters is a norm and pissing into ones pants because of fear as well 😅 Elbe valley is probably the most popular area of sandstone climbing in here as there is a decent number of bolts and wordclass moves as you mentioned :p
Yeah, but from what I've seen in Teplice on these routes with rare bolts you can use slings to protect yourself, not every route is that dangerous :-)
@@lucp8576 Among the sandstone climbers I climb with, only one of them ever tried falling into a sling and he spent 3 moths in a wheelchair after that, because he broke both his legs. I mean yeah, you put them in, but you dont really wanna fall into them (At least I dont :p )I agree that not all routes are that dangerous. You can find a decent one here and there if you look hard enough :)
@@D4Z3D_ I have too little experience there, and I hate flying on any protection but some slings did look like bomber protection for me :-)
There were a lot of incredibly sketchy placements so yes, they are insane.
@@lucp8576 Oh yea, sometimes the slings are bomber when you place a fat knot in a nice nest but its rare to find one exactly when you need it :D Mostly you put in many half shit placements and pray you dont have to fall in it :D But to me some US trad climbs are equally insane. climbing something like 5.12 and repeatedly falling into single cam protecting them from the groud is borderline suicidal :D With slings, people at least know they MUST NOT fall into that shit :D
@Harry Johan Instablaster :)
on that ferry you actually met one of the icons of czech climbing ;) strauss and hoi method of how to save climbers in the pitch :) the guy mainting the ferry is strauss :) great guy! ... and a legend :)
thid is the kind of climbing i love, mani, very well done!!! very good tecnique and very brave!!!! more slabs!!!!!!
Wow 0 views. And as you said you were going to Oslo contact Magnus, he must have some projects for you as you are close to his grade.
Saxon sandstone climber here, although not very proficient. ;-) I really enjoyed the positive way in which you presented saxon and czech sandstone climbing. Actually the sports climbing in the Elbe valley on the Czech side is extremely popular and very well visited on sunny weekends. They are just not as well known in the west, I guess. Also, you could have approached the second climb in a more mixed style, placing some saxon style slings on the way up to the first bolt. That would have taken the danger out of this climb. Fantastic channel!
Really cool mani! This type of bolting have a unique felling to climb kind scary and enjoyable at same time. Wish one day I could to Europe to visit this crags
Sick video Mani! That’s a crazy setup on the bottom of the 8A
Adršpach waits!
on the second climb, do they perhaps expect you to place a knot before the first bolt to make it safer?
i guess something would go in all those large rocks or in the large crack to the left
Yeah or you could probably just wrap a sling over on of the last blocks before the headwall... I'd still be damn scary, but at least you wouldn't die in a fall ^^
Or: you could just use a clip stick for the first bolt and avoid the risk of dying on a sport climb ;-)
But sometimes I like spicy, too :-)
That rock looks amazing!
8 meter long clip sticks exist?
@@TheValinov Just climb up that easy stuff and stick clip from there ...
Do you mean a gay stick?haha
@@dmm4133 Haha, you said "gay", hahahaha (facepalm)
I think some of those routes were meant to be supplemented with cams. The 8a could have taken some for sure.
Maybe you shouldn't just rely on the bolts and use some "Knoten-" and "Bandschlingen" in between. Or maybe there were no cracks to do even that? Be safe Mani, great video but a risky climb.
Labske Udoli :)
Imagine having bolted that 8A and somebody gets killed because of your psychopathic bolting style. You're a brave guy Mani
VDB To be honest no one gives a fuck when that happens. Its considered to be the climbers bussines what they choose to climb and accidents happen pretty frequently every season. When you step into the route, you accept the risk. Everyone can see how its bolted and how dangerous it is and the guide book provide even more in depth info about the level of danger, sparcity of bolts, author and choss. there are classic routes that havent been climbed for decades just because no one dares to touch them. Thats just the sandstone way.
Climbing is no safe.deal
was ich nicht verstehe ist doch gut gesichert du kannst ja unten in dem leichten gelände was legen und dann isses nicht free solo da es eh kein sportklettern ist wird immer da wo man was legen kann normalerweise kein haken sein
I would never have the balls
I've gotten my teenage cousin into climbing. It started with bouldering as that's all I did due to a burst fractured L1. He quickly progressed to wanting to do some top roping. Now he's getting into sport climbing. He's had some professional sessions with an instructor but his parents want to pay for me to do a lead belaying course so I can do the belaying for him. As I suffered a serious spine injury that required surgery I'm concerned about the forces involved, and what it may do to me. Would it be wise to refuse?
Hey just my opinion but If in doubt with an injury definitely put yourself first until you know your 100 percent we only get one body but if you do want to why not speak to a coach or an expert on these sort of injuries so they can access you and let you know where your at 🙂
Probably best to consult with your doctor, if he says it isn't safe then you can just tell his parents that, if he says it's safe that's even better
Maybe try to slowly get into it and look, how the pain is? You could try belaying some simple top rope falls and slowly increasing the distance and see, how it feels? I guess an indoor lead fall isn't that much harder than a 4 or 5 meter top rope fall?
Is it possible to just bring some basic trad gear and clip it in the beginning?
It's forbidden to use metal gear there, but they use cordelette and slings to clip natural features, and they also have developed the UFOs, some kind of textile wedge that locks onto cracks... Quite scary
you can clip the first bolt with a clip stick, if you want. now there are 14m sticks on stock
Hey sag woher kommst du eig? Lg
if its too scary why dont use some equipment to secure yourself ?
Mani, your 8a link says you weigh 100 kilos...that doesn't seem right
too much czech beer
Do NOT use chalk on sandstone..
Don't you ever wear a helmet?
That 8a is not safe at all. What if something breaks? What if the next hold is too slippery that day? What if your foot slips? (even ondra slipped on world cup lead finals). What if your skin rips apart (split) from overgripping and it causes you to slip? The answer to all those questions is that your family and close ones will miss you.
This is climbing itself... You can climb safe routes, you can climb dangerous ones and no one can make you climb something you don't want.
Climbing is not safe.
@@dmm4133 Just trying to raise awareness. I dislike this elitist bolting style that reserves routes only for specific group of people. For me the ethical thing to do if you're going to drill some holes on a beautiful piece of rock that'll stay there forever is to make it possible to be climbed by most. You're not doing a service with that development if you're limiting beautiful routes only for yourself and a couple dozen others..
You can definitely have your style as a developer just don't go full stupid and ruin it for almost everyone. There is always another developer willing to put his name on beautiful piece of rock.
Super exposed 'rules' in crags seem super lame. Like people getting hurt for the sake of it seems pretty misguided