How to Replace a Toyota Camry Alternator on the 3.5 V6!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
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Here's a how-to video to change the alternator in the 2006 - 2013 Toyota Camry with the 3.5 V6 OR 2007 - 2012 Lexus ES350 with the same 3.5 V6 (from what I've read). I hope this helps someone save some cash on car repairs so they can do other fun stuff with their money instead! Comment below if you have questions, I check comments frequently.
I am aware there are several effective ways to do this job - one alternative way to reach the rear bolt on the alternator may be to go at it from beneath the car with a socket or end wrench if approaching from the top is giving you a rough time. Hope this helps.
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Thanks for your video bro. It helped me out a lot by eliminating a couple extra steps I took last time.
I like how your videos are quick and no nonsense. You show what bolt and tell what tool and size, and edit out all the wrench turning. We don't need to watch every turn of the ratchet.. thanks for editing out the bs so that we don't have to fast forward
@@nelliemiller9205 hey thanks for the comment, I definitely like cutting out all the wrench turning and stuff, everybody knows how to turn a ratchet. Thanks for watching!
Ok. First of all. Thank you so much. This is truly one of the better car maintenance videos. You explain thing very well and I honestly learned a lot from battery voltage to that fun bolt tape trick.
Second. God bless anyone who attempts this repair. I was one of the lucky few who got defected alternator and got to go through this rewarding experience a second time... That being said, here are a few things I learned.
1.If you have AAA you can have them stop by and diagnose the problem so that you don't end up buying extra unnecessary parts like a new battery. I ended up buying a cheap volt meter and diagnostic computer off Amazon.
2. Buy or rent the right tools. The belt tensioner helps a ton and having variable depth ratchets and Sockets to fit in tight spaces is necessary. I found out the hard way that if you take the belt off of the alternator and release the belt tensioner all the way, you won't be able to crank the tensioner back far enough to get it back on. The second time around I turned the tensioner as far as I could and ziptied it off. This kept the belt loose throughout the assembly so I could easily put it back over the alternator.
3. The second time around only took me an hour and a half rather than 8 because I made a clear path for the fans to come out. Take the time to remove as much as you can out of the way so that you don't damage parts. Definitely drain the radiator first so you don't get coolant all ever the engine. I ended up removing the bumper and radiator bracket to get the fans out, otherwise the fans smash against the radiator. Detach as many cables and bolts as needed and MARK THEM WITH A PIECE OF TAPE AND NUMBER THEM SO THAT YOU CAN COUNT DOWN AND NOT FORGET TO REPLACE BOLTS AND CABLES DURING ASSEMBLY.
Hope this helps and no one needs to make the same mistakes I did. I realize this video was posted a while back but feel free to send me a message if I didn't explain something well.
Take care, stay safe, and good luck!
Thanks for the kind words! Great detailed writeup here, 100% accurate. AAA is great, rent tools so things work out for you, don't bash your radiator to death.
Isn't it funny how much faster round 2 is?
Quick tip. When pulling the fans, slide a piece of cardboard over the radiator to protect it.
This is one of the best DIY videos I've seen!
Great advice! Thanks for the kind words
@@RiggsGarage I followed your video with my Grandson for his car. It saved him a few hundred dollars!👍👍
Five Stars Bro!! I watched a few videos on the 3.5 liter and I ended up doing it pretty much like you showed except I unplugged the harness to the AC compressor and I removed the 3 bolts on the manifold heat shield and slid it to the right for more visibility/clearance. I had about 4 hours in it give or take. Thank you for the insight!
You explain everything so clearly. Great, great work. I believe anyone could do this after watching.
Thanks for the feedback! Hopefully I can help some people with these videos.
Thanks for the feedback! Hopefully I can help some people with these videos.
Your detailed video saved our bacon!
We have a 2012 v6 and needed to replace the alternator...what a pain! We founs that taking the heat shield off and sliding some cardboard against the radiator helped out a ton. Took us a few hours, hopefully it gets rid of the whirring sound and the low-charging issue we had.
So glad to hear, thanks for letting me know!
I just completed this job on my 07 V6 XLE with 190K on the clock. Great video but If I might add:
1. DEFINITELY rent or buy the flat-bar pulley wrench for this job as it is most useful for the 14mm bolt on the rear ear of the alternator - I wasted at least 30 minutes trying different extension/socket/bar combinations only to end up renting this tool anyway.
2. I felt more comfortable removing the radiator core support, hood latch assembly, and both horns to allow the radiator to tilt back (toward the front of the car) and ease the fan shroud up and out. It is not necessary to remove the radiator and all of its cooler connections, just the core support on top. As you rightfully mention, you DO NOT want to damage your radiators fins much if at all and they are very easy to damage.
3. I found a 13mm worked best on the tensioner pulley, not 14mm, but I replaced my tensioner last year so maybe it came with a different bolt head than OEM and I just don't remember, but if a 14mm isn't snug then yours is a 13mm. Also, its not a bad idea to change your belt if it is at all a question as to weather its good, especially when replacing the alternator. I understand you did this job without ever jacking up the car, which is appealing, but I ended up replacing my belt and had to jack up the car and remove the front right wheel. Undo the 2 10mm bolts holding the plastic cover on in the front corner of the wheel well to reveal the service window to the pulleys. I used a 13mm closed end wrench to muscle the tensioner pulley (counter clockwise) with one arm and fit a 5mm allen key into the little hole on the front of the tensioner assembly when it lines up with the hole on the block (per service manual). This locks the tensioner in the un-tensioned position and you can work on the belt and check all your pulleys for stickyness (none in my case). Oh, and if you have a bad or noisy belt tensioner assembly NOW is the time to do it because the alternator has to come out to replace it! x_x
4. When installing the new alternator, I found it easiest to start with the 12mm bolt in the bracket that inserts in the front of the block and thread it about half way so you can move things around THEN the rear ear bolt (this was the trickiest and felt easiest to cross thread) with the method you mentioned of rocking the alternator gently will getting the bolt started with your right hand, THEN the front ear 14mm bolt. You DO NOT want to cross thread any of these so take as much time as you need to feel good about how the bolts are threaded in.
5. I went with a Denso reman alternator and after a call to my Toyota parts department, learned that this is the same unit they put on customers cars at the dealer. When asked if there are new, not reman'd Toyota alternators, his reply was "I can get one, there are 7 left in the US, and its $675 before any discount" - not an option for me! The Denso is priciest of all the reman's (about $300) at your parts store but it is what AC Delco is to GM, so I felt most comfortable with this choice - this is NOT a job you want to do again just to replace a faulty reman alternator.
6. Invest in an automotive multimeter if your a DIY'er to test your work and don't rely solely on the equipment or personnel at your local auto parts store to test the state of your charging system. You should have already ruled out a bad battery. Engine running my alternator is charging at 14.2 volts, so, it worked! Since you removed the battery completely during this job the ECU will be in learn mode when you fire it back up upon completion and idle might move around a bit. It should eventually level off at idle at 750-900rpm range. Make sure you drive it around after verifying the alternator is charging. Re-learn, if I recall, is about 50 miles of mixed driving with the climate control and lights on.
Don't be afraid of this job even if you are a novice. This video should make it easy to understand and the only hard part is making sure you install all the bolts correctly on the new alternator. These are very strong running engines that require minimal maintenance and return over 30mpg on the highway. Thanks for the video tutorial!
Wow, excellent writeup! I agree that moving the core support is probably the best move and reduces risk. Well, I agree with all of it. Thanks for posting!
@@RiggsGarage Thanks! Sorry if I'm rambling on here but one last thing (and this is important): The ECU re-learn or resetting of the fuel trims is necessary anytime you have had the battery disconnected. You will notice a big difference in throttle response, crisper up shifts, no delayed down shifts, etc. Simply turn the key forward to "on", then back off completely, then back to "on", then start the engine. Engage the parking brake (the foot brake on the far left of the footwell), put your foot on the normal brake to shift into "D", then leave it idle for 4-5 minutes this way. Their are several youtube vids on this so just do a search if you need clarification. This works on most Toyota models of that vintage and I HIGHLY recommend doing this as the last step of the Alternator job and thanks again to Riggs Garage for taking the time to make a clear and informative video that saves mucho $$$ vs. paying a shop to do it!
Excellent video. Thanks . Just replaced my alternator after 176K miles on my 2007.
Thanks for this detailed video. I am comfortable using tools but seeing other videos where so much had to be removed to get to the alternator. It scared me off, but after the shop told me it'll be over $800 to fix which I don't have. Now I back checking videos and yours has given me the confidence to give it go.
Go for it, this job was not fun or easy. Hopefully the video helps you. There are some good tips in the comments one I believe was to cover your radiator with cardboard so the fans don't scrape it up. Good luck with the job! Keep some money
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Thanks I feel confident from your video definitely earned a like and matter of fact I'm subbing now too. Again thanks for the great info.
@@TONEakaSHOW thanks!
@@RiggsGarage
Man that bottom alternator bolt is a b*tch to get out lol
I just changed the alternator on a 2010 Camry and I only had to take out three bolts and remove two wiring harnesses. I was lucky I didn’t have to dismantle everything you did! Great job!
Must have been a 2.4L 4 cylinder and they are entirely different and easier.
That was the clearest instructions for this job! thank you so much. I have the exact same car and will be doing this lovely job this weekend 🤞 great video thank you again
Thanks for the kind words, and, good luck! Save the $ for the twins 👌
Saw a few videos on 4-cyl engines but the alternator replacement on 6-cyl engines is so much different and involved. Nonetheless the clear instructions in your video give me confidence to tackle the job on my own! Best tutorial video! Thanks.
Thank you for the kind words, good luck with your project!
Just did this job on a friends car. If you’re more inclined to since the coolant is already getting drained, you can remove the thermostat outlet or the housing as a whole unit instead of unbolting the dipstick. Good opportunity to change the thermostat and associated seals
Thanks for watching! Were I to do this job again I would definitely remove the water neck.
Thanks for pointing out that "hidden" metal bracket bolted to the back of the Alternator. I was pulling my hair out before I realized that was still holding it in.
That was a booger! Glad to help
I first saw this hidden bracket and 2 bolts, wire loom clip, in an A1 Auto Parts tutorial that a woman tech did. I definitely would have missed those bolts too.
Me too I damn near tore the whole motor out😂
Your video gave me the mindset I needed to get the job done and I did.about 6 hours for me and sore hand and a ton of sweat.l took off heat shield and O2 censor for more clearance.thanks for your video ,can’t say it enough.😎👍
So glad to hear it helped you! Thanks for the kind words
if this was a 4 cylinder I'd have no problem. Goddam v6 is just too crowded for me to justify doing this myself.
This was not my favorite job
Extremely detailed, I wish you the best of luck with these videos, this was perfectly done.
Thank you, hopefully it saved you some money and time
great video and very detailed. nice camera setup too
Thank you sir
Thanks for the great video! We used your information to change the alternator in my wives Camry. We did find one thing on ours that was different than what you said. Both bolts on the alternator bracket are 12 mm. You said one was 12 mm and the other was 14 mm. Thanks again!!!
Thanks for watching!
Watched bits and pieces of this originally- but I watched it all this morning- perfect video- very detailed- thanks- if I do it myself- I can use that money for a new battery- lol-
Glad to hear I could help you! Thanks for watching
Great video It helped a ton. For me though I was having issues taking the back bolt out on the alternator. So I jacked the car up, took the tire off and the plastic wheel well off. That made it a lot easier to access.
Glad to help, I should have done that looking ack
I appreciate it
Video was dead on and super accurate
Thanks for the clear instructions. Need to remove the alternator to replace the belt tensioner this coming weekend.
You're welcome!
Very nice video well filmed and very well directions on how to replace and alternator all sizes was shown you needed now as a woman was able to change my own alternator.
Awesome! Glad to be a help 😊
Thanks. Helped us alot
You're welcome
Great video, I got the job done. Not an easy work and thank you.
Great to hear, thanks for watching!
Very informative in the step by step process.I have to do mine,but i think i will use Gunk to clean the engine area first.I have 2 cans sitting in the garage already.Thanks for the info. and i hope u get a lot of views.
Thank you for watching! Yeah, cleanup is very much worth the time, this one was fairly dirty. Let me know how it goes, and be careful of that radiator as you pull fans out and reinstall. Good luck
@@RiggsGarage Thanks a lot Riggs.After seeing the hard time u had with the fan.It might take me 2 days to get it out safely.
That was amazing.. and convinced me that I'm not capable to doing this replacement! Great video.
Hey, good news, I'm glad you were able to make the choice. Not a job for everyone for sure. Thanks for watching!
I did not see at what point you put the belt back on the alternator, was it after you got the alternator back in and before you start putting the fans back in?
Uau, fantastic vídeo. Thank you very much. A Car endoscope would be nice to show the back of the alternator, and the pulley.
Thanks, good idea
Camrys need love too! lol
Heck yeah! Gotta help folks keep the daily on the road so they can make money to build impractical junk like mine ahahaha!
I hope you can answer. I’m at the part where I need to use the belt tensioner tool to remove the belt off the alternator. When I do I can’t get the tensioner add the bolt. Is it best to just remove the entire belt from the bottom of the car? Cuz I can’t get the bolt off bottom of the alternator. I hope you can answer quick I’m almost down doing this job. 😭
Great tutorial Bro, wanna do it but don’t have enough tools ... yo the man 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching Mario!
Not a fun job. Prepare to loose some skin. Well done on the video. You saved my bacon because I did not know about the lower bracket on the right side.
Glad to help, Thanks for the comment!
To make taking out the radiator fan assembly even easier you can remove the exhaust manifold heat shield, it’s just an extra 3 bolts. It is shown on this video at 6:42. If you pause the video at 6:42, he his removing the hose clamp, if you look to the left you see the oxygen sensor behind it with the wire sticking out. That metal plate around is the heat shield. There are 2 bolts on the top and one more toward the bottom right. You can move the shield along the wire of the oxygen sensor without taking the oxygen sensor off. CAUTION: This heat shield gets EXTREMELY HOT. Please make sure car has been cooled before you attempt to remove the shield or even performing this job at all.
I just did this job earlier and removing the radiator fan assembly was a piece of cake after the heat shield came off.
Good advise, thanks!
Life saver thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Very good video
Thank you!
How long did it take you?
Why remove the radiator
.just flex it slightly like in the rav 4 vid and the alt com s out
I didn't remove the radiator, are we talking about the same thing here?
Did you remove the serpentine pull tool
When you removed the tool with the belt on everything but the pully did it tighten up
Why tf are the v6 such a pain compared to the 2.4L
Definitely a pain, a lot less real estate with the V6
So, my kids car, got the Call. I charged the battery, starts and runs.. but thought maybe should check alt out. At auto zone test she said good batt, good starter, failed alternator. Watched videos, liked yours best. Watched again, took a nap woke thinking I had a project ahead of me but have you! First step Volt test batt car off 13 ish, car running 14.14. What? Took off battery with car running with isolated tools and it kept running. Then took to O'Reilly. Test there says bad battery, good starter and took a long time to tell me bad alternator! I reveled what I did. He googled what output a v6 2007 camry needed an 14 is good. So what am I looking at?? I guess I will not fix what is not broke even though the 20 year old at part store says too?!$$
If the battery tests bad, I'd start there. If the alternator tests bad again, I'd replace it. I believe they can still output the correct voltage and be bad, in that they aren't consistent
I would have liked to have seen him put the belt back on, not leave that part out.
My mechanic is saying the radiator needs to be removed to have the alternator replaced but it doesn't look like this is true.
It is not true, but it is very tight and you have to be careful not to dent your radiator up.
Well done. How much would the local mechanic charge ?
Not sure, way way more than I spent though!
4 hours per the book. So let’s say a shop’s hourly labor rate is $110.00 X 4 hrs = $440.00. You’re very welcome 😉.
Just completed the same repair, what a nightmare that bottom bolt was😣
Yeah that bolt was terrible, Glad you got it done and thanks for the comment!
This is a great video but i can not get that lower bily off for my life. I ha e spent two days on one bolt. Sad but not gonna loose to this sob
Are you talking about the bolt at the 13 minute mark I'm working on? That one was a booger. I used a long socket and the belt tool because it fit well.
@@RiggsGarage yesss i gotta go get one thank u
@@nighthawk5301 I rented that one from O'Reilly
@@RiggsGarage i got one but i swear its stripped.
SAME FOR 07 ES350?
If it has the 3.5, should be same
In NYC, nobody rents tools. Autoparts/advanced Auto/OReilly/ whatever stores.
Dang, I'd encourage you to move to the Midwest 😉
Um, me and my friend rent them. What?
Muy bueno INFO
Thanks!
Just did this job because my wife said autozone said she has a bad alternator …. Car still isn’t starting. 😭 😅
Noooo fun, check connections, check battery
You should not have to take apart half the car to do a simple 10 minute alternator swap.
💯
this car was not designed with mechanics in mind.
You just dismantle the whole car to take out your alternator.. once you loosen the alternator it come from the bottom..😠😡🤬
It's not the easiest job. Part of making these videos is helping other people decide if they want to do this themselves or not. Are you going to do it?
This is NOT an easy job!!!
Very true. Not fun