Hand Plane Frog Adjustments - Setting the Throat
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2020
- Hand Plane Frog Adjustment. In this video Rob explains the three type of hand plane frogs: Bailey style, Bedrock style, and low angle. He compares and contrasts each type of frog. Then he goes through how to adjust the frog to get the proper throat opening for general hand planing.
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The first of many videos I have watched to explain the throat setting. It's something I have always wondered about. Great tutorial.
I didn’t know about the throat setting. ...but that’s why I binge watch your videos. I’m a vet but not disabled or combat and I truly appreciate your attention to combat vets.
Rob, I've never watched a video of yours where I didn't learn something. Your ability to teach something to someone who has no prior knowledge of the subject is astonishing. Thank you.
I’m still finding my way using hand planes (I sold my 8” helical head jointer and 13” planer!!!). Your explanations and videos help me tremendously. Thank you (and I save these and re-watch because I tend to overthink and get myself wrapped around the frog -ha ha).
Yep. That was news to me. Makes a lot more sense now that I understand how the throat works. And now I also know the difference between a Bailey and a Bedrock plane.
As always, great video Rob. Thanks so much.
Having watched all of Rob's hand plane tune up videos, I've finally been able to get my Grand-dads' Type 15 #4 Bailey in very good working condition again. Many years it has just been a closet queen, so much pleasure in being able to use a fine tuned tool now.
I have an old 605 Bedrock. I knew about the mouth adjustment but I had no instruction on how to do it. So this video has really been helpful! Thanks!
My sentiments exactly. I knew the adjustment was there but had no idea what to set it to. Now I know.
Yes, I knew how and why the throat adjustment works because I watch Rob Cosman videos!! Great video as usual!
Thanks roger. Lots of folks were asking so we decided to make another video
Great teacher. Learned alot from videos
Just stumbled on this. Had to retire early so money is tight and I simply cannot afford expensive tools so have some older Stanley planes. I never fully understood the full significance of the throat width adjustment until now. I consider myself better educated. Great video. Thanks for sharing Rob.
11:49 I actually did know about the function of the throat and tear out. But that's because I just watched a Paul Sellers video right before watching this 😄. Came here to find out just what you've shown us. Awesome, Rob! Thank you kindly, sir!
I have never had success with a hand plane. After watching Rob's videos about planes, and there are several of them, I was able to finally pull long thin shavings out of the plane just like Rob does. My problem was that I never had anyone to show me how to do it. Anyone who wants to use a plane can benefit from these videos. I never knew any of the stuff that Rob teaches here. Not knowing the function of the chip breaker for example can be the difference between success and frustration. Setting up, sharpening, adjusting, and maintaining a hand plane are skills that anyone can learn but not by trial and error. These videos are excellent teaching tools. Rob's teaching style is great. No loud or obnoxious music and, he lays stuff out it easy to understand terms and doesn't think he's gotta try and be a comedian like a lot of content creators do. This is really valuable stuff. Thank you for sharing it..
Wonderful endorsement, I think I’ll go back and watch them! :)
great demonstration as always. Thanks Rob!
Really great instructions, thank you!
Wonderful!
Thank you for teaching me.
Didn't know this, and at 72, never too late to learn!
I'm so excited to have found your channel! Amazing!
Thanks for the tips
Great stuff!!!! Thanks.
Thanks Rob. Very informative. Love what you do through PHF
Thanks for watching
Right information at the right time for me today. Thanks Rob.
Yes I had a feeling you needed it so I made it 😉
Rob: long time listener, first time caller. Much respect, love your dovetail marking saw.... The bedrock frog in the old Stanley's is a pain to adjust. Here is a good tip so you arent going in and having to do ten adjustments. Before you take it apart, turn your knob so your blade is all the way up. Then, lightly loosen the front two. Put your blade back in, and Then adjust the frog with back screw. At the same time You can gently turn the knob bringing blade out without moving the frog position. This allows you to Adjust frog to desired open, while seeing right where the blade will be. When it's good, lift blade, then tighten the frog front screws up, and your done.
Wow, that's a pretty good idea, I've never heard that before! All the vids I've watched on this subject and I learn that in a comment section? Thank you!
Great information Rob!
As always you put it in a way that is easy to understand.
Thanks David. Make sure you sign up for our free monthly newsletter. Link is in the video description
Thank you for taking your time and sharing hard earned wisdom and knowledge.
Thanks for watching. What video should i do next?
Rob.. Youre a great teacher. I know sometimes things dont go the way you would like them... But it can be seen from your videos that you have a passion with the knowledge and experience to back it... for this as good Paul sellers. Yea there are a few other you tube people that are absolutely great. You and Paul sellers are my go too for any questions about something. I really appreciate the time and passion you have put in to your instructional videos. Btw I think what you do for veterans and recipients of purple hearts is absolutely selfless. Ive personally spoke with veterans who have experienced your generosity and just want to say thank you for all you have done and have strived to achieve through your videos. It is not unnoticed.
Thanks for the shout of support. Please find a wounded vet and tell him about our PHP program. Spread the word.
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
@Lorenzo Shawn instablaster :)
@Sean Ira I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Sean Ira it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account !
Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to show this, we (us new to hand tools ) need more of this lost art.
stay tuned lots more on the way. We just shoot our next video for release on Tuesday and its a good one
I did not understand this topic before the video. It was especially helpful as I have the WR 5 1/2. You are a gifted teacher.
Glad it was helpful! make sure you sign up for our free monthly newsletter. There is a link in the description
I did not know about the function of the front part of the throat, thanks for the info, I look forward to tuning my plane up a little.
WoW Nice shavings at the end! Like buttersmooth the plane goes along the wood. Thanks for your explanation ,you make it very clear to follow👌🏻
Thank you Rob. I went back and forth so much on which plane to buy, and finally decided to get a decent one (I went with a Wood River No. 4) rather than a budget one that I'd have to struggle with. I got the plane, and before I even tried it, I followed your steps for setup and sharpening. When I went to use the plane, I had so many problems. Each time, another one of your videos would help me out. Last week I got my first barely acceptable results, and then I found this one, adjusted my frog, and got results I was truly happy with. I still have tons of practice to do to make get flat and square results, but my surface finish is so good that I wouldn't need any sanding. I work in a very small space with no room for a table saw, let alone a jointer and planer (at least not in addition to my lathe), so to do any non-turned work of any size, I need to get to know my plane, and I thank you for your help getting started!
I started woodworking about four weeks ago and everything I know about planes I am learning from you so no I did not know the function of the front part of the throat and again I thank you for all of your shared knowledge
I am new to planing but have been rebuilding a Sargent 3416 so this video is a god send . Thank you.
Great video Rob I'm new to woodworking and I'm tying to learn all I can.
You should sign up for our free monthly woodworking tips newsletter. Link is in the description.
Yes I was aware of the purpose of the frog adjustment. Enjoy your videos please continue if you can. Thanks
Philip
I will keep making them if you keep watching them! Sign up for my free newsletter. Link is in the description.
Thanks Rob, another really helpful video. I was aware of closing the mouth to reduce chatter but only since I started watching various channels on CZcams when I started my college course. I like your video because it provides a good comparison of different plane formats and a simple explanation of how to fix the issue. Your twice-weekly videos plus your Saturday live sessions are the highlights of my week. Thanks for your commitment.
Thanks for watching. You should try my online workshop. There is a free one month code in the description
Excellent video. I did know about the mouth adjustment. Very good information in this video. Thanks
Appreciate the comment. Keep watching
Thanks Rob, had no idea the throat was adjustable, must check my plane now!
Amazing, eh?
Very helpful! Thank you
Glad you liked it. Keep watching
I noticed your patches. I was on USS Dallas (SSN-700) deployed to the Med when Iwo Jima had her steam line incident.
A excellent instructional video and yes l knew about the throat adjustment.
Thanks for the comment. I was getting a bunch of comments asking for this video so we decided to make it. Sorry if it was repeat info.
I don't think these great videos you produce can be shown enough. I think it is great they get repeated over time. It keeps us on our toes to do things correctly. With a correctly sharpened blade that is mounted to the chip breaker properly then set in the plane correctly a plane is such an amazing tool. My English brother in law was an amazing finishing carpenter. He produced a stair railing on our river property out of branches and deadfall while visiting us here in Alberta. His go to tool was my plane that day, the railing is still as sturdy as it was the day he built it. He was an inspiration for me and taught me a lot. Keep on with these instructional videos as you are helping me and l am sure many, many more too.Thank you so much.
Thanks Rob. Best explanation of the differences between the Bailey and Bedrock style planes and how to adjust them that I have seen on YT. I think a 5-1/2 Bedrock is in my future. I can't see replacing all my Bailey style planes. A comparison of the Norris style plane next to the Bailey and Bedrock planes would be nice.
Videos are always excellent and informative however, the new way this is filmed takes it to new level. Answers all the questions you have as a newbie
Thanks COL Luther is trying real hard to improve the formatting and style of our videos. Let me know if you have any other ideas of how we can make them better.
I knew the purpose of the frog adjustment but this really helped to learn how to adjust it correctly. Thanks!
No problem. Happy planing
Very good explanation, i realy enjoy your teaching ! Greetings
Glad to hear that! Make sure you sign up for our free monthly newsletter. There is a link in th edescription
I love how almost every one of your videos is an education~! I’m pretty new to hand planes, so that definitely demystified the throat opening specifics. I just bought a Woodriver 5 1/2 Jack and a block plane and didn’t have much of idea of where/when/how to set those adjustments. Great info in going forward now~! Thank you, Rob...You’re my “go to” for woodworking instruction~!!
Thank you for watching. You should consider signing up for my online workshop. There is a free one month discount code in the description
I've learnt something today, I knew the frog was adjustable, now I know how to do it properly, great teacher Rob.
Glad I was able to help. Have you signed up for our free monthly newsletter? Link is in the video description
I just retuned the throats on my LN no.8 and no.4 and got rid of 80% of the tear out issues I was having! thanks!
Hi Rob great video as always - I adjust the frog on my 1970's Record plane by only slightly slackening off the retaining screws, then put the blade/ chip breaker back on and then adjust with the rear screw. When I'm happy with the gap I then take it apart - tighten the frog retaining screws and put it all back together. Some lubricant helps on the frog bed if necessary but I find the method is much quicker than the traditional way.
Thanks Rob - I watched this video after coming to a realisation last night. I was trying to plane down to a line with quite an aggressive cut, and i noticed it was difficult, and that the shavings would get caught in the blade.... opening the throat made the world of difference.
As a raw novice, whenever I come across a query or problem, first question is: “has Rob got a video on this?” - thanks Rob.
Great info. Thanks Rob
my pleasure
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Do you ever do classes in the Twin Cities?
I did know about the function of the throat opening, but had always found it tough to adjust so ended up with a compromise. With these new type planes (which I bought and absolutely LOVE), I now can make adjustments easily for all kinds of different and figured woods. Your instruction on this has opened up vast new horizons and MUCH better results on projects!
Glad it was helpful! Make sure you sign up for our free monthly newsletter. link is in the description.
I learned about this from you back when this video first came out and watching it again today. Soon I will buy one of those Wood River 5 1/2s to use as a general purpose/smoothing plane. In the meantime I have an old bailey #5 that I use for everything from scrubbing to smoothing. I purchased a new thicker blade, and set my frog so that it takes a very fine shaving. And when I need to do some rough planing/scrubbing, I put the original/thinner iron on (that I have cambered) and because it's so much thinner it naturally leaves a larger gap without having to adjust the frog. I wonder if anyone else does that or if there is a problem with this approach that I'm not realizing.
Thank you for these videos. It's exciting to learn how to use hand tools and over time I've noticed myself reaching for them more and more for things that I used to use only power tools.
thanks!
No problem....
Thanks for the great tips Professor Cos. Really apricate your tips. I saw where you have a patch of the USS Iwo Jima on your apron. My father was an Iwo Marine Corps vet. He was happy to see both ships before he passed. Keep up the great videos.
Yes we have a navy Vet in one of our PHP scholarships and he was on the Iwo, that's where the patch came from
been waiting for this video!!!
I know that.....Thats why I released it !!!!!😆
Very educational video, well filmed and edited. Nice directing Luther! (And of course great camera work and on-screen talent too!)
Thank you very much! I will tell all involved.
Great demonstration Rob, thanks. I did know about adjusting the frog ahead of this because I've watched a lot of your instructional videos and I watched the DVD that came with my WR planes.
How do you like your WR planes?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I am really impressed with them. I have restored some old Stanley's, but enjoy the WRs much more.
I was just reading about setting the throat opening in the Scott Wynn book the night before this video. It was great to see that information in video format, it really cemented that information into my brain. Unless I am mistaken it seems like this is one of the advantages of the bevel up plane, setting the throat opening is much easier.
That can be true, but making adjustments to the blade’s projection tends to be harder.
Great post Rob. Ykamk-you.
Thanks. Check out our free online newsletter. There is a link in the description..
Thanks for the helpful hints! I'm going to replace my old Stanley #5 with a new #5 1/2. Not sure where I first learned of the throat opening controlling trearout but Chris Schwarz showed me his smoother and the opening was barely discernible.
Definitely on a smoother you want to be taking very light shavings with a very tight throat.
I did already know the function of the plane throat. It was taught in my very first hand tool basics course. The teacher was Oscar Wells, a woodworker of long experience, at my local community center woodshop. Oscar later moved to Williamsburg, VA, to become one of the craftsmen at the Colonial Williamsburg Hay Cabinet Shop. A great guy and wonderfully patient teacher.
What a fun job to have...
Rob, you are truly a master craftsman! The thickest shavings you can get are probably still thinner than the thinnest ones I can get.
No you can do it. Sharp blade is the secret
You asked if we understood the significance of the throat opening. No I didn't! I have been using my Stanley Bailey #5 and #7 for many years successfully (and apparently luckily). I also have a Lakeside #4, which I understand is Stanley made for Montgomery Ward. I've never been able to make this plane work properly -- the shavings clogged up the throat opening. I thought maybe the blade was too thick and this was making the gap too small (it is the same thickness as a Pinnacle IBC 0.095" replacement blade I have). I had set the frog right up against the throat opening. Now I'll back if off a little (there is no third adjustment screw on this Lakeside), sharpen the blade, and try again. Thanks!
All the latest videos have come out exactly at the right time for me haha. 2 weeks ago I bought the minimalist sharpening kit from RobCosman.com and last week got a wood river 5 1/2. So helpful to have these videos for reference. Great work Cosman team. Another helpful video with solid content.
Thanks for watching. How do you like your 5-1/2?
RobCosman.com the wood river 5 1/2 is superior to my old Stanley #4 and #5 that I thrifted and restored. Just goes to show that continuous improvement to the tool and attention to detail has made it easier to use and sharpen. Making the whole experience more enjoyable and easier to accept into my shop.
I fixed up an old Stanley no.4 that someone had abused for a long time. "It never worked properly." was the information I recieved with the plane. Turned out the frog was not adjusted properly, it was skewed to one side, causing the plane to always cut deeper on the left. I straightened it up, sharpened the iron and it works like a charm now. That frog is more important than one thinks...
Had no idea the throat opening was adjustable. Thank you! My old Stanley is turning into a hot rod!
There you go! never know what you will learn form one of our videos!!! Thanks for watching
I’m glad you decided to make content for CZcams. I’ve learned so much watching your videos. It started when I decided to learn how to use a hand plane. I’m still learning. I bought the same plane you use. Can’t get a full width, full length shaving though. I wonder, how far back can I set the frog so it doesn’t interfere with the blade? I also have a no. 4 13 style Bailey that I switched to a Wood River blade. I think the mouth is too small.
Thanks Rob,
Have known about the mouth opening function all my life.
I rarely change the mouth openings on my everyday general purpose planes.
Instead, I make fine adjustments to the registration of the Chip breaker in relation to the cutting edge for super fine tear out free cuts.
This way, IF I need to pull off some thick shavings, I'm not adjusting frogs all the time.
ps: I only own one bedrock style plane it is a 4-1/2 Clifton and it is only used for that super fine polishing of surfaces.
Peace,
Walter
As long as you can sharpen well you can defeat most grains. Its only the really nasty ones that closing the throat also is needed
Tank´s for a grate vid. Very pedagogically explained. This was one of the first things i learned about planes, besides sharpening the blade. Among my family of planes I have 3 US pre WWII #4 Stanley. One for rouge cuts, one that I have trued and flattened and put a Hock blade and chip braker in with a narrow moth setting for those really fin shavings and one with the bevel on the blade up (45+30=75) for extremely difficult wood. Works more as a scraper plane.
Have the been in your family or did you acquire them?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking No I have bought them (2 in flee markets, and one on ebay). I have way to many planes. At least my wife thinks so :-). Bench planes #3-8 mostly Old US Stanley or new Veritas, and a #5 Juuma (chines high quality) and 2 plough (small large), 2 rabet (block & normal) , 2 router (small big) Stanley 90 scraper, 2 sholder (1/2 & 3/8) all mostly Old US Stanley or new Veritasand a half set of Hollow & Rounds. plus a bunch of wooden planes. and a bunch of saws everything from Veritas dowetail anb benchsaws to old Shefild ones and old Diston D8 rip and Sandvik etc. I find it revording to restore old tools that some one bought , some times over 100 years ago, and get them to work as good, or eavnen better, as they did when they were brand new. For me, they carry an importent part of or industreal history with them.
Thanks for the great explanation Rob - as always, you have a very clear way of explaining things. The long board you are using in your demo here seems to be an awesome way to help get that setting correct. After seeing you pull off those (almost decorative) long ribbons of wood, it just dawned on me that you're running down the edge of the board - I've been running my tests on the face of the board. Subtle difference, but I'm assuming your way is the better setup.
Doesn’t really matter for the first pass. If you are doing it on the board’s face, then your next pass has to be moved over a bit so you bring the entire face down in the same plane. Easier using a board’s edge, you remove the entire width in one pass
I wasn't aware of the throat opening physics until I saw a recent video by William Ng. You expanded on what he said to explain why different size openings are used.
Hope it was helpful. Keep watching.
If for any reason anyone wants to use the old Stanley style plane (inherited) do yourself a huge favor. Get the after market blade for your plane. Some people may think of this as putting a $50 saddle on a $5 nag. The difference will astound you. And of course do what Rob has shown in his videos.
Ditto
Gr8 video Rob, Really enjoy your delivery and easy to understand style highlighting the virtues of the WoodRiver (Bedrock) plane. Interestingly I went to a 'Lost Trades Fair' in a place called Bendigo here in Victoria, Australia a few months back and came across a guy using one in his exhibit. We started chatting about the plane (they're fairly rare here) and ended up talking about your woodworking classes which he'd had the good fortune to attend. He was a big fan of your work and encouraged me to think about connecting with you to explore the possibility myself. Might be in touch in the future when the COVID 19 lockdowns are well in the past. His name was Tony Martin, and he spoke very highly of you.
Tony is a great guy. He is like our spokesman down under. In fact i just spoke to him yesterday. You should definitely come for a class / vacation
Hi, Rob and team! Thanks so much for sharing your immense knowledge and experience with the woodworking community. I know I'm a better woodworker for following your instruction. Do you have any insights for squaring the frog to the plane (or the mouth of the plane?)? I tried using a square against the outside wall of the plane (which is as square as I can measure) and set the frog accordingly, but the blade sits very skewed compared to the mouth (which is also square to the same reference edge). Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have!
Fantastic video Rob! I am proud to say I knew about the frog position and throat. I am embarrassed to admit tho I spent HOURS / DAYS setting up my 1945 Stanley Bailey plane to get the throat to work right. I have NOT been able to close it to 1/32 without clogging. I suspect chip surface mill is goofy or the iron needs re-profiled. On softwoods it's fine. Walnut, I get tear out at grain change. I started marking frog position with a ultra fine sharpie so I could visually see how much I moved it. I at least have it working but still could be better. Thanks again for these videos!
Make sure the throat is smooth. You can fill it if its all chipped
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks! I will pull it apart again and take a good look.
Yes, I did know about the throat adjustment but actually modifying it when needed is another thing entirely. If it's a pain in the behind then it's simpler to ignore it. Thanks for descriptions and tips.
So very true. That's one of the reasons I only suggest bedrock style planes; much simpler and quicker to adjust
Great video at the right time as in making some white oak cupboard doors (shaker style) and the grain is all over the place and would rather finish from my plane than have to use the sander
Thanks rob
NO sanding allowed !!!!! You can finish from you plane
@@RobCosmanWoodworking that's my plan now, I adjusted the frog this morning and it worked a treat. Minimal sanding from now on in my workshop😁
Very best video on adjusting a plane frog. I had my plane jacked up so I couldn't get the blade to extend past the mouth. Going through your video step by step, I'm all squared away now. Of course, while I had it jacked up, I beat up the edge some. Now I have to sharpen again. Woodworking is mostly putzing around with tools, am I right?
So, i didn't know what the little adjusting knob was for before your very nice video. Now that you have us all wondering how long our planes have been out of adjustment, please tell us what to adjust the frog to and when? Should we be widening the gap when scrub-planing, narrowing it with finish work, using a wide gap on softwoods, and does it matter? we can now adjust the frog, but should we? Great video and series, love watching and learning.
Basically you are correct. I would not use your Jack plane as a scrub, but if you turned an old bench plan into a scrub plane, yes open the mouth all the way up. For general planing keep the gap at about 1/32 inch or a little wider. When you plane on difficult grain and you experience tear-out then start closing that gap down, on really bad grain close it down as must as 1000th inch opening.
Oh- I did know on the effect of the throat and wood compression; just struggle w/ what’s right.
Thanks Rob, I for one didn't realise what the frog adjustment was for! Having said that, until I started watching your tutorials, I preferred my electric planer to my hand plane ; )
Say it isnt so!!!....Learn to sharpen your plane and you will be hooked forever
I have learned and successfully sharpened and tuned my plane, the electric one is history😊
Blame me and tell your wife you need to buy more planes now!!!!!
I get a lot of good information from each of your videos. Thank you for making them. I would be interested in the role of the chip breaker in controlling bad grain. Is there a difference in the role of the chip breaker since the shape and thickness of the chip breaker edge has evolved into a chisel shape?
The chip breaker was super important in the old planes as they used very soft and thin metal for the blade. The chip-breaker helped support the blade’s cutting edge and reduce chatter. Its shape also deflected shavings up and out of the plane. With today’s modern, thick and harder steel the chip-breaker is less important. In difficult grain to reduce tear-out you can move the chip breaker super close to the cutting edge and that will help break the wood fibers before they create tear out. Some like this method, i do not. The first strategy against tear out is a very sharp blade. This will fix 80-90% of tear out issues. Next strategy is less blade projection. This will take care of 95% of tear out issues. Finally, close down the mouth (or do the chip breaker trick) to help break the wood fibers. I prefer closing down the mouth.
Thanks at 80 & still learning
Just a youngster. Lifelong learning is the name of the game
i can remember my Dad showing me how to adjust , set and sharpen a jack plane when i was 10 years old. Fast forward 40 years and i finally bought myself a jack plan, WR 5 1/2, that i can set , adjust and sharpen myself. i don't know why i waited so long but regardless, here i am.
As an aside question, why don't the larger jack, jointer and smoother planes have the same type of adjustable toe plate like the smaller block plane does?
Thank you for teaching me. Watching you set that plane up and then pull those perfect shavings is magical to me. I did understand the relationship between the opening and tear out. I have my great grandfather’s old Stanley #4 and have taken it apart and am familiar with its frog and how frustrating it is to get it set where I want it. However, that bedrock plane is new to me. I have been debating with myself about buying a new blade and chip breaker, or just a blade, or a whole new plane. I have been thinking about getting a low angle plane without a frog to get that out of the equation. Why don’t you ship planes to the US?
I always recommend buying a new plane over supping up and old plane, UNLESS its a family heirloom and you want to get it working great. You will spend 60-75% of what a new WoodRiver plane would cost juts fixing the older Stanley. I prefer bevel downs, bedrock style planes over low angle planes as I think they are much easier to adjust than a low angle plane, especially fine adjustment. Without that frog you loose the nice adjustment capability. My contractual agreement with Woodcraft corporation is that I cannot sell WR planes in the US. They only have stores in the U.S. so the rest of the world I am good to sellto.
Thanks. Was aware of the purpose of frog adjustment, just wasn't good at it nor what was the correct amount of correction.
Hopefully this video helped a bit
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks I think it will. Whilst Australian hardwoods are beautiful, most are twice as hard as Red Oak and many are cross grained. So there is always a degree of envy watching how (comparatively) easy it is to plane North American and European woods. My guess is anything that helps planing is more important when working with Australian hardwoods.
Mr Cosman. you have been an inspiration for me since i found your channel some years back ... i sincerely appreciate your method of work and your way of making us your viewers better craftsmen and also inspiring us to be better people through your charity work! There is but only one video i would appreciate above all others even if it`s a DVD you shoot and we can purchase it or if you will share it with us via CZcams or your classes . i would really like to see you pull of a wooden hinge box win only hand tools ( no core box router bit for the round channels ) and a eggbeater drill instead of a power drill for the dowel .... if there is any chance for us to get that video please let me know, and thanks again for the excellency in craft you are sharing with us
Its tough to do the channel for the dowel without a router. This is the way Dale Nish taught me to make them 30 years ago. I have had this question before and I need to figure out how I would do the channel, probably with a scratch tool, but I need to think on it. The drill part is easy. I am curious, why?
Mr . @@RobCosmanWoodworking , first Thanks for replying to my message it`s a something that really means a lot to me. As for why i wish too see it done hand tools only. I believe that people of the past were quite ingenious and must have had ways of doing all sorts of tasks without power tools . and that many of those techniques and solutions and ingenuity has been lost because of the power tool age. i want to see a Rob Cosman video about this as a testimony and standard of excellency and also as a heritage of history. Btw i tried doing the half round channel with a shop made beading tool /scraper tool ... i had satisfactory results in combination with a half round gouge but didn`t have the posibility to drill that perfect hole in the dowel hinge and failed at glue up.
Just curious what wood species is the very fine shave curl coming from. As always thanks for the fine points of frog adjustment. 82nd Airborne vet
Yes Rob, I know of the throat adjustment and the reasoning behind it. As you say that adjustment is a pain in the butt and tends to be avoided if one has only one plane. I have different planes for different situations.
I am significantly older than you.
I am not a dirty old man, JIM
I agree 100% with you. Different planes for different tasks.
Always interesting! But I don’t understand why we don’t use the big planes with movable front part, like you showed on the block plane. I own two Stanley (4&62) they both have a screwed handle with lever on the front section, no tools and easy adjust of the mouth. Works great and easy also on my rabbet plane.
The issue with the low angle design is adjusting the blade.
Another very informative and educational video Rob. I plan to buy a Juuma # 5 Jack Plane. They seem to me to be of good quality for a reasonable price .As far as I know they are made by the same manufacturer as Woodriver, is that correct?
Many people buy several low price classic stanley planes and preset mouth to goal.
I just sent this video to my wife to show her WHY I need a newer/better plane than my vintage Bailey/Stanley! Now I just have to decide which SIZE I need! BTW, my BS plane does not have an extra screw to adjust the frog... maybe it’s really old? Love everything you do and can’t wait to attend one of your classes - GO Bench Brigade! (Still waiting for one in Alabama/TN)
Anything i can do to help get you a new plane!!! Go with a 5-1/2. You are right the super old bedrock may not have the screw
RobCosman.com I was going to get a wood river 4.5 but will change to. 5.5 per your awesome advice! Should I spend $$$ to get a LN?
Your choice. The wood cannot tell the difference between the two. You wallet can tell the difference between the two
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks I appreciate an honest answer! :-) I'll save my pennies and buy the 5.5 WR
WoodCraft has WoodRiver Number 5 - 25% off @$164.99 - should I get it or wait for a 5.5 @ about $100 more?
Good wood river hand plane selling video. On the other hand, Stanley for decades where the way to go with no problems and these old ones cost a fraction of the wood river, more sense for the no professionals, I guess.
Thanks for showing this detail Rob, it will make all the difference to my planning from now on, as usual, video was exellent.
👍
Rob, I think you have answered this in one your videos before, but I cant seem to find it. If you have the plane iron evenly protruding but the blade is not parallel to the sole's opening what would you suggest in order to fix that? Would filing the opening to be parallel to the blade be the way to go? Any help would be great! Thanks!
Question: does the center frog screw have backlash, and therefore should I always finish the frog adjustment by turning it clockwise, in the tightening direction? Secondly, I always worry about "fouling" the blade edge against the front border of the throat, if I set the throat opening too tight. Any suggestions for how to prevent this? I knew most of what you shared, except for how the cone shaped screws are offset from the cone shaped hole, so it tightens when you push forward. I am always amazed at what amount of engineering has gone into these tools by those who came before us. Once again, thanks for the great video Rob!
I have found that with modern planes (Lie Nielson am WoodRiver) the manufacturing tolerances are so much better than the old Stanleys you dont have to worry about backlash....thats why I never do and you can see its not a problem. On old Stanleys it is an issue.
If you dont leave a small space you wont get a shaving and you will know to back it off. The planes body is softer metal and you are not slamming the blade forward to cause a problem.