Remember whenever you use a linseed oil based product to dispose of the used cloth properly. Linseed oil soaked cloth can spontaneously combust so you have to put them in a metal container or soak them in water.
Good mention. "Drying oils" undergo exothermic oxidation, which results in the polymerization that results in the final finish. The key is to slow or prevent oxygen from reacting with the oil, which explains the recommendations to put into water and/or seal in a container
Paint stores sell a product called Japan Dryer. It will help the linseed oil harden quickly with just a few drops added. It will fully cure and still completely absorb into the wood, not sit on top. Avoid polyurethane at all cost. Handle looks great.
Yes. It’s good for natural oils like linseed, tung oil, teak etc. professional painter will add a little to oil based paints, artists use it because oil art paints dry so slowly. It only takes a small amount. Google it to learn more.
Japan driers are toxic and expensive. Why not just use Watco Tung Oil? It’s cheap and already added in. If I was going to the trouble of concocting a finish, I would find a recipe for boiled linseed oil. The reason I don’t is because its highly flammable and dangerous to make. Raw linseed oil and mineral spirits will just come off over time.
@@marsbar6523 I saw that eBay Birchwood knife finished with boiled Linseed Oil. The seller gives away the oil with the knife but I didn’t want to spend that much money a knife. It did look really good however. He gave me some basics on how to make it myself but it’s way too involved. Told me to like boil it for 3 weeks and not start any fires. He has an elaborate lab setup. Looks like Watco for me.
I wish CZcams would allow photos in the comments sections. I applied your recipe with a ratio of 50% pure raw linseed oil, 25% mineral oil, and 25% general wood bowl varnish. I applied 6 coats, allowing 2-3 hours between applications. I then let the knife cured for 2 days before using. The knife is now an exquisite art piece. Thank you for the recommendation. What a game changer. Btw: I also applied your recipe solution to my wooden foosball table handles. They are not as great as the knife, but now they are protected and pop.
Thanks for the receipe. This video came up as a suggestion and Im glad I watched it as I have just received the same birchwood handled knives. and was thinking/concerned about the wooden handles eventually staining with everyday use. I have just applied my first coat using the ratios of 40% linseed oil 30% clear mat varnish and 30% mineral turpentine. Mine didn't turn out as dark as yours (which I find quite brilliant) as it is a little closer to the natural/stock look. It did however, bring out more of the grains! This was more good luck than management in that regard. For any Aussies reading this and thinking about doing it, I went to Bunnings and purchased 1L diggers mineral turpentine, 1L Diggers natural (raw) linseed oil and a small can (250ml) of Monocel varnish (interior) mat finish. I made a cups (250ml) worth of the mixture using the ratios (100mls, 75mls, 75mls) I mentioned previously. This amount is heaps and you could probably drops it down 100 to 150 mls in total and have enough for many years worth of applications as you only need a small amount on the end of a microfibre cloth to rub in for each coat. Of course the longevity of the mix would depend on how long it lasts?
As a knife maker myself, I highly agree with using oils on wood handles. Water on the other hand, is never use it anywhere in the production process. Great video on handle finishing 👍👍
Big piece of advice here as there are quite a few names for linseed oil to include: Boiled Linseed Oil Raw Linseed Oil Double Boiled Linseed Oil Polymerized Linseed Oil Starting off with raw linseed oil. Its a good use for cutting boards because it doesn't contain any harmful chemicals that Boiled linseed oil (BLO) has but it dries very slowly (1-2 weeks) depending on coat thickness. Can also be used on knives but once more drying times. Polymerized or Double Boiled Linseed oil is linseed oil that is truly boiled and placed under a vacuum unlike boiled linseed (I know confusing right) changing its chemical composition decreasing the drying time to -8hours or so WITHOUT adding any chemicals which is the best for cutting boards/ Knife handles OVERALL. Boiled linseed oil used to be boiled , however now it is just known for having a slew of drying chemicals added to decrease drying times that are toxic and not safe to have on kitchen surfaces that require food prep or consumption. BLO is really only good to apply to knife handles in the kitchen environment since it will dry a LOT faster than raw linseed oil and not be in direct contact with food. Keep in mind however that you will still be in in-direct contact with the knife with your knife hand which will also later on handle food which would technically contaminate the food so it falls under the users own discretion whether its safe or not to apply such coating. Linseed oil is classified as a hardening oil meaning that the oil will crystallize over time forming a protective barrier. There are other oils out there such as Tung Oil which is another great long lasting natural oil but apparently has a slight smell and teak which is pretty much BLO but named differently.
Ryky, this video is awesome. I've applied the first coat on my set and am floored with how beautiful they're turning out. Thanks for the great ideas and clear step-by-step instructions.
I saw this and had a can of boiled linseed oil sitting on my counter... 100% oil works great. I whetted the handle and let it sink in for maybe a minute then wiped it off with a paper towel. What a difference. I will wait for a week or two and give it another soak. This brings amazing depth and shine out of the wood. If the folks at Miyabi see this video, they would start doing this at the factory.
I'm a fan of boiled linseed oil for all my wooden tools, apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year from then on.
@@lonepeakMT there's lots in life that isn't food safe, I wouldn't finish a cutting board or a wooden bowl with it, but a knife handle doesn't have much contact time with food. Raw linseed oil can take weeks to dry.
My Favorite knife hands down. I really like the improved version of the handle. Surprised that Miyabi does not finish the handles this good from the start.
I'm so glad I found this video. In the end I used just pure linseed oil for the handle of my MCD5000 knives and the result is just plain beautiful. The pure oil has some advantages over the mixture shown in the video: 1) there are no chemicals included which might be poisonous 2) it penetrates the wood deeper There is only one small drawback: Compared to a mixture as shown in the video the pure oil takes longer to dry. I would give it at least 48h. If possible even more, depending on the air humidity where you live. Anyway, thank you so much for the inspiration! Without this video I never would have thought about oiling the handle of my Miyabi knives.
Glad to see that you’re back, Ryky. You got me hooked on collecting chef knives and your reviews have strongly influenced my purchases. Keep up the good work!
this is the first good knife I ever had back in high school. I use pure organic unfiltered flaxseed oil for the handle after I polished it to 6000 grit and it still feels great.
That looks bloody great and I'm so glad you made this - I've been absolutely petrified about what to do with the handle on mine, consequently have barely used it. I'll be into it tomorrow so once again, thanks sport and stay strong.
I just treated my Miyabi 5000MCD Birchwood Kiritsuke with a mixture quite like yours (50% linseed oil, 25% mineral spirits and 25% wood varnish) and it turned out great! Indeed looks even better than the handle straight out of the box. I also applied the same mixture to the Maple wood handle of my Ryusen Fukakuryu Sujihiki knife and also that turned out fantastic. Now I'm going to do the same with my Saya's. Thanks for this video!
We call that “vehicle” in oil painting. Generally is 1/3 each of linseed oil, Damar Varnish, and mineral spirits/turpentine. And we would adjust the ratios depending on our current needs. Vehicle is added to the oil paint to get the texture and result you want. However, damar varnish does not waterproof it. The linseed oil is protecting it from water damage. Varnish for the look and feel and turpentine for the penetration and to thin it some. P.S. please don’t use the varathane/liquid plastic varnishes.
The salad bowl varnish (straight) will wear within a year or two of hand washing. To touch it up after wear, very fine sandpaper just lightly brushed over it once or twice to roughen the surface (tape off the metal or you'll scratch it) will provide a good surface for reapplication. It is possible to add a small amount of dye or coloring to varnish, for a darker (walnut) or more redwood finish.
Great vid! For anyone new to seasoning wood, don't make the same mistake I did by buying a water-based varnish! Make sure your varnish is solvent based e.g. polyurethane.
Just saw this video over the weekend. I have these knives. I also had the stuff sitting in my garage and it never even popped into my head to do this. I did it this evening and wow!
I have a set a Miyabi birchwood. I gave the handles a few coats of olive oil When they were new, over a period of 2 days. Brought out the richness of the grain, as well as giving them a golden hue. Every few months I give them a single wiping over with olive oil to maintain the finish. The handles are now water repellent.
@@jafarhon not slippery at all. Repeat the process a few times by applying oil with a paper towel. Let the sit overnight after each application. The handles will absorb as much oil as it needs. When you see residue oil on handles, you’ll know that’s enough. Wipe off excess oil with dry paper towel.
@@jafarhon You should invest in Miyabi hand held sharpener. Diamond and ceramic wheels for sharpening and honing. Maintains 9 degree angle on blades. Never use other hand held sharpeners. I also have a magnetic knife block so knife edges never rub against wood as in slotted knife blocks.
@@andregreen8040 i wanted magnetic board so badly but have a 4 year old Daughter and im afraid these knifes attracts lots of attention so i went with block knife holders. I got my 6 set today and man i was exited like a kid in the candy shop, and also did exactly what you said with olive oil in 1 knife and surprisingly olive oil was gone within 30 min and handle was bone dry. As for sharpening im afraid to take on that task, i dont want to mess it up. I think ill find some professional to do it or ill get Miyabi hand sharpener. I wanted to buy hand sharpener i think Miyabi one was like $180 or something than changed my mind. Hey thanks for all your help i really appreciate it.
The Zwilling-Henckels store near me closed and I was able to pick up a handful of knives at 70%. So I paid a little over $100 for the Birchwood knife (also picked up some other kaizen ii and morimoto edition knives for much less). I plan on finishing the birchwood handle this weekend. Thanks for the idea
Bought the birch wood after watching many of ur previous videos and used it in a professional setting for about 4 months and just seasoned it following your guide thanks ahain ryky
I fell in love with the Birchwood the first time I saw it, but don't really NEED it! Now, if I were to get one, I'd have to decide between that really light handle that I liked, or one with more richness. Tough choice! Thanks as always!
@Burrfection Greatly appreciated for this video; and I love my Miyabi BW and giving it some added protection is now definitely on my to-do list. BTW - Your channel is great, really enjoying working through your back catalog! Many thanks for what you do!
Got the same knife and seasoned it exactly like you said here and from previous videos. Worked great! Was worth ignoring all the other people who didn't agree with you in the comment section! Cheers!
I am quite familiar with woodworking and how to protect unsealed wooden surfaces. Oilmixtures are just a start for me, and there are many oils (or mixtures) you can use, depending what is your goal (besides water protection). I like to mix linseedoil, orange oil in a can placed in hot water and add bees- and carnauba wax. The first thing I apply to my handles is tungoil ( I do this three times like you do). After the oil is completely soaked up I warm the knife in an oven and apply the mixture, put it back in the oven for a couple of minutes, of course on the lowest temperature available - you just want to warm it up a little bit. Take it out and polish the wood with a piece of fabric - I always use some old socks 😳 The feel of the knife is completely different and I love it. Water's just beading off and the grip sticks much better to your hand.
Thank you this was exactly what I needed for my knife. It's still in the box because I just feel bad actually using it if that makes sense but after I apply this mixture now I'm more confident to use this knife in the kitchen.
Made my day, Welcome back RyKy, I use boiled linseed oil on axe and knife handles all the time. Birch "burl" wood is an exceptionally beautiful and tough wood.
@@Burrfection That is correct, Just boiled linseed oil. I apply it warm and keep applying it until it won't soak up any more. I re-apply once a year. It keeps the wood healthy and looks really good. My axe handles are exposed to weather also. The mineral spirits is a great Idea though but I don't like the feel of varnish. It creates a friction while swinging the axe and will raise blisters.
For axes it's ok. But for knives cooking food, boiled linseed oil is a very very bad idea. Common "Boiled" linseed oil is actually linseed oil to which plasticizers, hardeners, and heavy metals have been added and those are absolutely not food safe.
I use Ballistol Gun Oil on all the wood stocks of my antique rifles and shotguns. It is not petroleum based, but biodegradable, so it does not damage wood nor leather. I let it sit on the surface of the wood I am restoring, letting it soak in. It will displace water, dirt, skin oils and old oils. After 24 hours I rub off the Ballistol which hasn't been absorbed by the wood. I then give the wood a dry polish using a soft cloth. I use it on metals, woods and leather. Developed by the German Military prior to WW1, and is still in use by Militaries and Sportsmen around the World.
I found before applying any product to a wood handle in need of such, rubbing the handle with 0000 steel wool (0000 only as it is ultra fine) smooths the surface and removes any surface contamination.
So Glad to see you back. I am a new burrfection viewer and have now watch all of your videos ... not all of all of them , but I have at least started them all
some GREAT content (but there have been a few bloopers) and you can really tell that his standards have drastically changed over the years. Take a few of the older reviews with a grain of salt. He has really had an AMAZING growth curve in his knowledge.
Just did this with my Miyabi Birchwood, LOVE IT!!! Ryky mentioned to not bother with the General Finishes varnish. So I originally bought a standard "wood safe" varnish but when I mixed it with the Linseed and Mineral oils, it looks really cloudy and separated quite fast. In short, I didn't like the look of it at all and I hadn't even tried it on the knife. So I went back out a purchased the General Finishes (it IS expensive) and it mixed well (looked exactly like his did in the video) and it applied beautifully! I cant say for certain the other varnish would have made any difference to the finished look but I wasn't taking the chance. Anyway, heading back to admire my knife now.... Thanks Ryky
Love the advice and went with 40%/30%/30% vs. 50%/25%/25% as wife wanted them sealed but not too dark. I have a nine piece set (six knives, tungsten sharpening steel, kitchen shears and the block) and used the mixture on all the knives/sharpening steel. Standard was 24 hours between the coats. Knives look great and now just waiting for coat #3 to dry. A few comments for your thoughts: 1) Interesting to see how the different pieces absorb the mixture/patterns. All are brand new but one piece is taking longer to dry than the others (9.5 slicing knife). Must just be the wood on this piece since each is unique. 2) Dry vs. Cure vs. Use - How long would you suggest letting them sit before using them? General's recommendation is: "You can use a piece lightly after about 7 days but be cautious - the finish will still be curing for another 2 or 3 weeks". This is based on a 100% varnish and not the mix you have created. I used all of the same ingredients you listed in your link!
You could also use 100% pure tung oil. I get mine from Real Milk Paint company. It is a food safe coating and can be thinned with citrus solvent. It would have the same look roughly, but no need to mix anything. It is also water resistant.
Boiled linseed oil is the best. You should linseed oil the knife every day for a week, once every week for a month, and once a month for the year. It will slowly soak in the amount it needs and when the year is done the handle will be essentially almost waterproof.
The process and chem recipe reminds me of French polishing for furniture, featured on some of Clicksprings videos. I believe that exact recipe may not be food safe, but the effect is strikingly similar. Duly noted for future reference. Thanks Riki!
How does it look now? I bought the miyabi based on your recommendations but am looking at making the handle really pop out like this. Did you have to re-apply?
Thank you for sharing this with us. I own five such knives and was thing if using just pure mineral oil. Your idea seems much better and will surly give it a try.
I use a product called Penetrol. It is sold as an oil base paint additive, but use it as a straight out wood treatment for all but direct food contact, ( salad bowls and cutting boards) Penetrol will penetrate like crazy, deep into wood. After 3 or 4 applications 3 or 4 days apart, it will begin to form a non porous surface. It works a lot like your blend, but its ready to go and stores in its can over long period without degrading. For salad bowl and cutting board, walnut oil.
I recently picked up a deal on the Miyabi Mizu nakiri and "slicer" (sujihiki) to complement the Blue #2 Ryky/Sakai wa-gyuto I bought from you. Wow, are those amazing cutters! From what I know, it's the same blade as these birchwood Miyabis, but with composite handles. Not as beautiful as the birchwood or nearly as handsome as the Sakai, but great knives to add to my collection.
GREAT choice! I have several chefs an pettys of the Artisan model and love them. Not as "pretty as Birchwood" model in the face and handle, but I don't need "pretty". I needs something with GREAT performance (same core steel, but 3 layers for function, not just for cosmetics) and with comfortable handles that fit me perfectly. For Ryky's other fans other that like the shape of the birchwood handle but want great performance and don't care too much for "pretty", the Mizu is the same blade as Artisan, but with a Birchwood SHAPED handle made of Pakkawood (semi-synthetic)
I use a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax rub a good coat onto knife handle then blowdry it in so it literally melts into the wood. Two or three times then it lasts a long long time maybe you need to redo once every year or 6 months if you use it much.
A beautiful knife made even nicer with a finish on the handle. I would have bought the knife but found it too light and blade too thin for my taste. I've taken a few knife making courses and have used Watco satin oil finish and Watco Danish oil hand finish oil worked very well. It penetrated the wood but left some texture on the outside so it wasn't a slippery finish.
The 6” birch wood is my daily driver in the kitchen. The handle’s only ever had Boos Mystery Oil applied to it over the years. So far so good. Mine is less amber than yours however.
For anyone wanting more info on treating their wooden-handled items, you might read through some bushcrafting forums. We have lenghty discussions about it and there are myriad recipes for achieving jiat the right finish you are looking for. Not all linseed oils are the same, and every boiled linseed oil I have seen is toxic. Happy hunting!
It is nice to see how to improve and sharpening videos :) I was wondering about a "to show" how to use Japanese traditional knives like Deba, nakiri, yanagi, and honesuki. Or a introductory series that shows these knives in action and their pros and cons. Such special purpose knives could be interesting in a western kitchen:) I would like to see how to sharpen single edge traditional blades :) Also cleavers, chinese chef knife etc :) All of you content is great :)
I know I’m commenting late on this video, but why would anyone pay $300 for a knife we have to seal the handle on ourselves? This should be part of the manufacturing process. This version looks beautiful!
Absolutely perfect result! Just ordered these knives. Want to treat them immediately. Do you think eatable linseed oil is possible to use? Does is has to be for furnish, or is these two oils completely different? I loved your knife, but i also want to make the knives a little more bright to match my furnitures. Maybe try a littles less linseed oil, maybe 30% linseed, 30% varnish, and 40% mineral spirits? Any recommandations here?
You could also probably just buy a small can of Osmo Thin (0.125L) if you don't want to buy the individual components. It's a hard wax oil blend and applies really easily. Also great for furniture.
The "raw" handle is like that so you get a good grip on it. After a few years of use, the handle will absorb oils from your hand and begin to develop a patina. Rally washing your handle should only be done if you got some type of meat contamination on it, most of the time you don't grab foot with your cutting hand then grab the handle again with out washing your hands first. I would just use olive oil to condition the handle and speed up this process. Now I am writing this before watching the whole video, sorry but im off to work..
THANK YOU. You are one of the few that "gets it" The unfisnished handle is so a master is one with their tool and over time it will be personal to him (or her) and him alone. Nothing wrong with finishing the handle, and casual cooks can do so easily, but a master will let it develop for ihm uniquely
i get your point. this knife was actually used in my personal collection completely raw, until i made this video. this was made to address "what CAN be done".
Absolutely this is a good service for those people that want it, and there ARE a lot of them. But there are also people that understand the hands of a master.
Linseed oil is actually not the best choice to be honest. First of all you need absolutely pure raw Linseed oil which is the only one that is food safe. Also, in the woodworking world Linseed oil is known to darken the wood over time, which can be a nice effect for very light wood, but not that much for others, except if you want your handle to become dark brown. Also, contrary to Tung oil which stays flexible, it is brittle when it hardens, not that nice for something you work with. Since it's a japanese knife, I think it would be better to apply what japanese apply. Which is Camelia oil. It's food safe, uv resistant, and does not change the color of your wood. And since it's a non-hardening oil, they will usually have something called a Kurobara to quickly apply oil everytime after cleaning their knife after use. It can be applied both to the blade to protect it from corrosion and to the wood in the same operation. (The Kurobara is a little applicator that always has oil in it in which a cotton wick reside to apply the oil on the wood. It is also used to do the same with woodworking tools like chisels.)
Pretty well any wood oil works, like tung or Danish but I'm not sure how safe those are around food. You could also use cyanoacrylate to seal it, even on the natural finish. That may require some smoothing afterward though depending how thin it was when used.
Thank you for finally getting around to doing this. Quick question.... once the mixture is created, how long can it be stored in a glass jar before it needs to be disregard?
Great video! I just bought this knife and it is incredible… I’d like to use your method for my handle as well but only have linseed oil at the moment. Would it be ok to only use Linseed oil?
You are thinking of a different demographic than what Miyabi designed this for Unfinished is for a GRIP for a working cook or a gourmet cook. Over years of use, oils from the actual hand of the user himself with patina the handle in a way that is uniquely PERSONAL to that individual cook. This finish is for a person whose SUCH a perfectionist and at such a high end that they want their tool to be one with the master. Since many of ryky's fans are only casual home cooks but like beautiful knives, this is a great video. Nothing wrong with a user that wants something just pretty out of the box But it is not what Miaybi intended. If you buy a Messermeister Royale or Olivia they are also unfinished for the same reason
@@hrhamada1982 Hi. Thanks for the detailed response. Obviously I'm far away from being an expert 😀 But now I get it. Makes sense. But what if the chef has very dry hands? 😂
Love the treated handle. However I can't bring myself to stain that beautiful original natural wood colour. For someone looking to just apply the thinnest coating to just add some water resistance while minimizing any colour change, what mixture would you recommend between varnish and mineral spirits?
Any oil you rich to it will bring out color because the handle is already dehydrated. I used cutting board oil, it's odorless, colorless, and tasteless
Hey good video ! I have 4 of those birch wood miyabi, and love them ! For the handle I used plain coconut wax, doesn’t last very long but it does protect from the water. Is the linseed oil more durable ?
Boos Mystery Oil.....NSF, beeswax and if you oil handle regularly and hand wash your knives, the handle won't have toxic hardeners or anything you wouldn't want in your food. I inspect restaurants by the way.
Thank you for your video. I purchased few Miyabi birchwood knives and want to treat them but really like the original stock color. Can I do 50/50 mineral spirits and Wood Bowl Finish without linseed oil?
“Mineral spirits” ? Or “Mineral oil” as mineral oil is food grade…please verify for us. Also can I use this mixture on Myabi Black handle? Knife looks fantastic by the way!
Great video. I passed along to my uncle who has the birchwood miyabi's. Have you tried Odie's oil? It's not the cheapest, but came out great on my Masamoto KS. It didn't change the color of the magnolia wood handle much at all. I didn't want the tint that BLO adds to such a blond wood.
Curious about your selection to include a top coat varnish over something like Tung Oil or a mixture with beeswax, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.(and General has a Seal-a Cell product). My worry is: Varnishes (like the salad bowl product) are typically used as a top coat. When a topcoat on furniture becomes contaminated, the repair is sanding it away. Unlike furniture, knife handles are constantly subject to contaminants. Would a wax coating be better by virtue of being able to remove the dirty layer of protection and apply a fresh one? I don't know enough to say but typically, when varnish top coats need maintenance, it's a more involved process..
Remember whenever you use a linseed oil based product to dispose of the used cloth properly. Linseed oil soaked cloth can spontaneously combust so you have to put them in a metal container or soak them in water.
I dont if you will see this if so can you please tell the amount/measurements for this I can’t find it.
Good mention. "Drying oils" undergo exothermic oxidation, which results in the polymerization that results in the final finish. The key is to slow or prevent oxygen from reacting with the oil, which explains the recommendations to put into water and/or seal in a container
Paint stores sell a product called Japan Dryer. It will help the linseed oil harden quickly with just a few drops added. It will fully cure and still completely absorb into the wood, not sit on top. Avoid polyurethane at all cost. Handle looks great.
So the japan drier will harden linseed oil? I never used the stuff before...just curious
Yes. It’s good for natural oils like linseed, tung oil, teak etc. professional painter will add a little to oil based paints, artists use it because oil art paints dry so slowly. It only takes a small amount. Google it to learn more.
Japan driers are toxic and expensive. Why not just use Watco Tung Oil? It’s cheap and already added in. If I was going to the trouble of concocting a finish, I would find a recipe for boiled linseed oil. The reason I don’t is because its highly flammable and dangerous to make. Raw linseed oil and mineral spirits will just come off over time.
@@marsbar6523 I saw that eBay Birchwood knife finished with boiled Linseed Oil. The seller gives away the oil with the knife but I didn’t want to spend that much money a knife. It did look really good however. He gave me some basics on how to make it myself but it’s way too involved. Told me to like boil it for 3 weeks and not start any fires. He has an elaborate lab setup. Looks like Watco for me.
I wish CZcams would allow photos in the comments sections. I applied your recipe with a ratio of 50% pure raw linseed oil, 25% mineral oil, and 25% general wood bowl varnish. I applied 6 coats, allowing 2-3 hours between applications. I then let the knife cured for 2 days before using. The knife is now an exquisite art piece. Thank you for the recommendation. What a game changer. Btw: I also applied your recipe solution to my wooden foosball table handles. They are not as great as the knife, but now they are protected and pop.
Thanks for the receipe. This video came up as a suggestion and Im glad I watched it as I have just received the same birchwood handled knives. and was thinking/concerned about the wooden handles eventually staining with everyday use. I have just applied my first coat using the ratios of 40% linseed oil 30% clear mat varnish and 30% mineral turpentine. Mine didn't turn out as dark as yours (which I find quite brilliant) as it is a little closer to the natural/stock look. It did however, bring out more of the grains! This was more good luck than management in that regard. For any Aussies reading this and thinking about doing it, I went to Bunnings and purchased 1L diggers mineral turpentine, 1L Diggers natural (raw) linseed oil and a small can (250ml) of Monocel varnish (interior) mat finish. I made a cups (250ml) worth of the mixture using the ratios (100mls, 75mls, 75mls) I mentioned previously. This amount is heaps and you could probably drops it down 100 to 150 mls in total and have enough for many years worth of applications as you only need a small amount on the end of a microfibre cloth to rub in for each coat. Of course the longevity of the mix would depend on how long it lasts?
As a knife maker myself, I highly agree with using oils on wood handles. Water on the other hand, is never use it anywhere in the production process. Great video on handle finishing 👍👍
Big piece of advice here as there are quite a few names for linseed oil to include:
Boiled Linseed Oil
Raw Linseed Oil
Double Boiled Linseed Oil
Polymerized Linseed Oil
Starting off with raw linseed oil. Its a good use for cutting boards because it doesn't contain any harmful chemicals that Boiled linseed oil (BLO) has but it dries very slowly (1-2 weeks) depending on coat thickness. Can also be used on knives but once more drying times.
Polymerized or Double Boiled Linseed oil is linseed oil that is truly boiled and placed under a vacuum unlike boiled linseed (I know confusing right) changing its chemical composition decreasing the drying time to -8hours or so WITHOUT adding any chemicals which is the best for cutting boards/ Knife handles OVERALL.
Boiled linseed oil used to be boiled , however now it is just known for having a slew of drying chemicals added to decrease drying times that are toxic and not safe to have on kitchen surfaces that require food prep or consumption.
BLO is really only good to apply to knife handles in the kitchen environment since it will dry a LOT faster than raw linseed oil and not be in direct contact with food. Keep in mind however that you will still be in in-direct contact with the knife with your knife hand which will also later on handle food which would technically contaminate the food so it falls under the users own discretion whether its safe or not to apply such coating.
Linseed oil is classified as a hardening oil meaning that the oil will crystallize over time forming a protective barrier.
There are other oils out there such as Tung Oil which is another great long lasting natural oil but apparently has a slight smell and teak which is pretty much BLO but named differently.
I've been using this knife for close to 4 years now in professional kitchens I love it.
Ryky, this video is awesome. I've applied the first coat on my set and am floored with how beautiful they're turning out. Thanks for the great ideas and clear step-by-step instructions.
I saw this and had a can of boiled linseed oil sitting on my counter... 100% oil works great. I whetted the handle and let it sink in for maybe a minute then wiped it off with a paper towel. What a difference. I will wait for a week or two and give it another soak. This brings amazing depth and shine out of the wood. If the folks at Miyabi see this video, they would start doing this at the factory.
I'm a fan of boiled linseed oil for all my wooden tools, apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year from then on.
But BOILED linseed oil is not food safe as it as metallic additives. RAW does not contain these?? Im not sure...
@@lonepeakMT there's lots in life that isn't food safe, I wouldn't finish a cutting board or a wooden bowl with it, but a knife handle doesn't have much contact time with food. Raw linseed oil can take weeks to dry.
My Favorite knife hands down. I really like the improved version of the handle. Surprised that Miyabi does not finish the handles this good from the start.
I'm so glad I found this video. In the end I used just pure linseed oil for the handle of my MCD5000 knives and the result is just plain beautiful.
The pure oil has some advantages over the mixture shown in the video:
1) there are no chemicals included which might be poisonous
2) it penetrates the wood deeper
There is only one small drawback: Compared to a mixture as shown in the video the pure oil takes longer to dry. I would give it at least 48h. If possible even more, depending on the air humidity where you live.
Anyway, thank you so much for the inspiration! Without this video I never would have thought about oiling the handle of my Miyabi knives.
thanks for sharing
Glad to see that you’re back, Ryky. You got me hooked on collecting chef knives and your reviews have strongly influenced my purchases. Keep up the good work!
What is the measurements for the formula
@@calebbryan8362 2:33 he says the ratio.
this is the first good knife I ever had back in high school. I use pure organic unfiltered flaxseed oil for the handle after I polished it to 6000 grit and it still feels great.
That looks bloody great and I'm so glad you made this - I've been absolutely petrified about what to do with the handle on mine, consequently have barely used it.
I'll be into it tomorrow so once again, thanks sport and stay strong.
I just treated my Miyabi 5000MCD Birchwood Kiritsuke with a mixture quite like yours (50% linseed oil, 25% mineral spirits and 25% wood varnish) and it turned out great! Indeed looks even better than the handle straight out of the box. I also applied the same mixture to the Maple wood handle of my Ryusen Fukakuryu Sujihiki knife and also that turned out fantastic. Now I'm going to do the same with my Saya's. Thanks for this video!
nice. sounds like a nice warm tone. and yes, i think the finished handles look better than raw ouf the box
We call that “vehicle” in oil painting. Generally is 1/3 each of linseed oil, Damar Varnish, and mineral spirits/turpentine. And we would adjust the ratios depending on our current needs. Vehicle is added to the oil paint to get the texture and result you want.
However, damar varnish does not waterproof it. The linseed oil is protecting it from water damage. Varnish for the look and feel and turpentine for the penetration and to thin it some.
P.S. please don’t use the varathane/liquid plastic varnishes.
The beauty of hand-rubbed wood finishes is unsurpassed... best overall form and function.
The salad bowl varnish (straight) will wear within a year or two of hand washing. To touch it up after wear, very fine sandpaper just lightly brushed over it once or twice to roughen the surface (tape off the metal or you'll scratch it) will provide a good surface for reapplication. It is possible to add a small amount of dye or coloring to varnish, for a darker (walnut) or more redwood finish.
Great vid! For anyone new to seasoning wood, don't make the same mistake I did by buying a water-based varnish! Make sure your varnish is solvent based e.g. polyurethane.
That finish after being treated looks great. If I had a knife like that I would do that no question.
Just saw this video over the weekend. I have these knives. I also had the stuff sitting in my garage and it never even popped into my head to do this. I did it this evening and wow!
Only complaint... the title should say "seasoned to burfection". Love you brother may God's will run our lives! God bless the knife community.
good one!
i was going to do that..... but thought some people wouldn't get it. time to change the title
I have a set a Miyabi birchwood. I gave the handles a few coats of olive oil When they were new, over a period of 2 days. Brought out the richness of the grain, as well as giving them a golden hue. Every few months I give them a single wiping over with olive oil to maintain the finish. The handles are now water repellent.
So just pure olive oil and thats it ? not slippery after ? just trying to coat mine
@@jafarhon not slippery at all. Repeat the process a few times by applying oil with a paper towel. Let the sit overnight after each application. The handles will absorb as much oil as it needs. When you see residue oil on handles, you’ll know that’s enough. Wipe off excess oil with dry paper towel.
@@andregreen8040 thank you thank you. Getting my set today ill do what you said. Have a great day !!!!
@@jafarhon You should invest in Miyabi hand held sharpener. Diamond and ceramic wheels for sharpening and honing.
Maintains 9 degree angle on blades. Never use other hand held sharpeners. I also have a magnetic knife block so knife edges never rub against wood as in slotted knife blocks.
@@andregreen8040 i wanted magnetic board so badly but have a 4 year old Daughter and im afraid these knifes attracts lots of attention so i went with block knife holders. I got my 6 set today and man i was exited like a kid in the candy shop, and also did exactly what you said with olive oil in 1 knife and surprisingly olive oil was gone within 30 min and handle was bone dry. As for sharpening im afraid to take on that task, i dont want to mess it up. I think ill find some professional to do it or ill get Miyabi hand sharpener. I wanted to buy hand sharpener i think Miyabi one was like $180 or something than changed my mind. Hey thanks for all your help i really appreciate it.
The Zwilling-Henckels store near me closed and I was able to pick up a handful of knives at 70%. So I paid a little over $100 for the Birchwood knife (also picked up some other kaizen ii and morimoto edition knives for much less). I plan on finishing the birchwood handle this weekend. Thanks for the idea
So glad to see you back keep up the good work,. Hope all is well :)
I have set of Miyabi Knives . This mix for handle Miyabi Knives working very good. Thank you. Your channel is great
Bought the birch wood after watching many of ur previous videos and used it in a professional setting for about 4 months and just seasoned it following your guide thanks ahain ryky
I fell in love with the Birchwood the first time I saw it, but don't really NEED it! Now, if I were to get one, I'd have to decide between that really light handle that I liked, or one with more richness. Tough choice! Thanks as always!
Life is hard
#knifeknerdproblems
@Burrfection Greatly appreciated for this video; and I love my Miyabi BW and giving it some added protection is now definitely on my to-do list.
BTW - Your channel is great, really enjoying working through your back catalog! Many thanks for what you do!
Got the same knife and seasoned it exactly like you said here and from previous videos. Worked great! Was worth ignoring all the other people who didn't agree with you in the comment section! Cheers!
I am quite familiar with woodworking and how to protect unsealed wooden surfaces. Oilmixtures are just a start for me, and there are many oils (or mixtures) you can use, depending what is your goal (besides water protection).
I like to mix linseedoil, orange oil in a can placed in hot water and add bees- and carnauba wax.
The first thing I apply to my handles is tungoil ( I do this three times like you do).
After the oil is completely soaked up I warm the knife in an oven and apply the mixture, put it back in the oven for a couple of minutes, of course on the lowest temperature available - you just want to warm it up a little bit.
Take it out and polish the wood with a piece of fabric - I always use some old socks 😳
The feel of the knife is completely different and I love it.
Water's just beading off and the grip sticks much better to your hand.
It's almost as if you knew I got a birchwood on monday thank you! I'm so going to be doing that.
Where can I find the formula
Nice, just bought one 20mins ago. Watching this on my way home.e to try it out
Thank you this was exactly what I needed for my knife. It's still in the box because I just feel bad actually using it if that makes sense but after I apply this mixture now I'm more confident to use this knife in the kitchen.
Right on. Have fun!
@@Burrfection Hello. Just curious how the treatment is holding up also could you give the ratios that you use?
Made my day, Welcome back RyKy, I use boiled linseed oil on axe and knife handles all the time. Birch "burl" wood is an exceptionally beautiful and tough wood.
no mixture? just linseed oil by itself?
@@Burrfection That is correct, Just boiled linseed oil. I apply it warm and keep applying it until it won't soak up any more. I re-apply once a year. It keeps the wood healthy and looks really good. My axe handles are exposed to weather also. The mineral spirits is a great Idea though but I don't like the feel of varnish. It creates a friction while swinging the axe and will raise blisters.
For axes it's ok. But for knives cooking food, boiled linseed oil is a very very bad idea.
Common "Boiled" linseed oil is actually linseed oil to which plasticizers, hardeners, and heavy metals have been added and those are absolutely not food safe.
I use Ballistol Gun Oil on all the wood stocks of my antique rifles and shotguns.
It is not petroleum based, but biodegradable, so it does not damage wood nor leather.
I let it sit on the surface of the wood I am restoring, letting it soak in.
It will displace water, dirt, skin oils and old oils. After 24 hours I rub off the Ballistol which hasn't been absorbed by the wood. I then give the wood a dry polish using a soft cloth. I use it on metals, woods and leather. Developed by the German Military prior to WW1, and is still in use by Militaries and Sportsmen around the World.
I found before applying any product to a wood handle in need of such, rubbing the handle with 0000 steel wool (0000 only as it is ultra fine) smooths the surface and removes any surface contamination.
Was just wondering this
Thank you
So Glad to see you back.
I am a new burrfection viewer and have now watch all of your videos
... not all of all of them , but I have at least started them all
some GREAT content (but there have been a few bloopers) and you can really tell that his standards have drastically changed over the years. Take a few of the older reviews with a grain of salt. He has really had an AMAZING growth curve in his knowledge.
never strop growing - never stop learning. just trying to catch up with you.
Ryky: "never strop growing"?? 🤣
Just did this with my Miyabi Birchwood, LOVE IT!!! Ryky mentioned to not bother with the General Finishes varnish. So I originally bought a standard "wood safe" varnish but when I mixed it with the Linseed and Mineral oils, it looks really cloudy and separated quite fast. In short, I didn't like the look of it at all and I hadn't even tried it on the knife. So I went back out a purchased the General Finishes (it IS expensive) and it mixed well (looked exactly like his did in the video) and it applied beautifully! I cant say for certain the other varnish would have made any difference to the finished look but I wasn't taking the chance. Anyway, heading back to admire my knife now.... Thanks Ryky
Love the advice and went with 40%/30%/30% vs. 50%/25%/25% as wife wanted them sealed but not too dark. I have a nine piece set (six knives, tungsten sharpening steel, kitchen shears and the block) and used the mixture on all the knives/sharpening steel. Standard was 24 hours between the coats. Knives look great and now just waiting for coat #3 to dry. A few comments for your thoughts:
1) Interesting to see how the different pieces absorb the mixture/patterns. All are brand new but one piece is taking longer to dry than the others (9.5 slicing knife). Must just be the wood on this piece since each is unique.
2) Dry vs. Cure vs. Use - How long would you suggest letting them sit before using them? General's recommendation is: "You can use a piece lightly after about 7 days but be cautious - the finish will still be curing for another 2 or 3 weeks". This is based on a 100% varnish and not the mix you have created.
I used all of the same ingredients you listed in your link!
how is yours holding up?
@@sickbrisket 100% waterproof and looking great!
@@xvoltn1967 thanks... i think i will also go with the 40%/30%/30% because i want mine lighter as well... do you have a video of them or pics?
I haven't watched this channel in so long the last time I did your hair was short!
It makes him look older... netural opinion
Looks like it is just pulled way back, but I do like the look. I'm sure the wife and kidokeos like it too
wife likes the shorter look, but my 4 year old thinks i look like a princess, so i'm keeping it for a while.
Burrfection should go full samurai and tie it up. Stick a couple of your Japanese knives in your belt.
He's VIETNAMESE. Not Japanese
You could also use 100% pure tung oil. I get mine from Real Milk Paint company. It is a food safe coating and can be thinned with citrus solvent. It would have the same look roughly, but no need to mix anything. It is also water resistant.
Boiled linseed oil is the best. You should linseed oil the knife every day for a week, once every week for a month, and once a month for the year. It will slowly soak in the amount it needs and when the year is done the handle will be essentially almost waterproof.
nice tip
I just got one of the birchwood knives and this is sure to protect it and make it pop!
The process and chem recipe reminds me of French polishing for furniture, featured on some of Clicksprings videos. I believe that exact recipe may not be food safe, but the effect is strikingly similar. Duly noted for future reference. Thanks Riki!
Beautiful. I'm planning on saving up for the birchwood paring knife. BTW, my strop arrived yesterday.. The leather is so nice.
Just put the third coat on my Birchwood Miyabi. Amazing transformation of the handle.
Thanks for the suggestion and video.
How was your knife holding up after coating it?
@@ld5984 it’s doing really well. It was a great recommendation.
@@iltrainu1 What ratios and liquids did you use?
@@ld5984 I went with the recommendation of 40-30-30 and it turned out beautiful
@@iltrainu1 awesome. So 40% varnish and 3030 for the rest? Also did you use any particular brands?
How does it look now? I bought the miyabi based on your recommendations but am looking at making the handle really pop out like this. Did you have to re-apply?
That really makes the handle pop gonna start treating mine today
nice. let me know how it comes along
That is an absolute looker there! Lovely job
Thank you for sharing this with us. I own five such knives and was thing if using just pure mineral oil. Your idea seems much better and will surly give it a try.
I use a product called Penetrol. It is sold as an oil base paint additive, but use it as a straight out wood treatment for all but direct food contact, ( salad bowls and cutting boards) Penetrol will penetrate like crazy, deep into wood. After 3 or 4 applications 3 or 4 days apart, it will begin to form a non porous surface. It works a lot like your blend, but its ready to go and stores in its can over long period without degrading. For salad bowl and cutting board, walnut oil.
that is NOT "food safe"!!!!!
It also has solvents in it which might look good temporarily but might harm it long term
I recently picked up a deal on the Miyabi Mizu nakiri and "slicer" (sujihiki) to complement the Blue #2 Ryky/Sakai wa-gyuto I bought from you. Wow, are those amazing cutters! From what I know, it's the same blade as these birchwood Miyabis, but with composite handles. Not as beautiful as the birchwood or nearly as handsome as the Sakai, but great knives to add to my collection.
the Miybai Birchwood even more beautiful - wow, great
Great info brother.
That's why I like the artisan better. Also the handle I like better on the artisan.
GREAT choice!
I have several chefs an pettys of the Artisan model and love them. Not as "pretty as Birchwood" model in the face and handle, but I don't need "pretty". I needs something with GREAT performance (same core steel, but 3 layers for function, not just for cosmetics) and with comfortable handles that fit me perfectly.
For Ryky's other fans other that like the shape of the birchwood handle but want great performance and don't care too much for "pretty", the Mizu is the same blade as Artisan, but with a Birchwood SHAPED handle made of Pakkawood (semi-synthetic)
great choice. Artisan has always had a special place in my heart
I have the smaller birchwood utility, I just occasionally rub the handle with rice bran oil. Wipe on wipe off.
I use a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax rub a good coat onto knife handle then blowdry it in so it literally melts into the wood. Two or three times then it lasts a long long time maybe you need to redo once every year or 6 months if you use it much.
A beautiful knife made even nicer with a finish on the handle. I would have bought the knife but found it too light and blade too thin for my taste. I've taken a few knife making courses and have used Watco satin oil finish and Watco Danish oil hand finish oil worked very well. It penetrated the wood but left some texture on the outside so it wasn't a slippery finish.
Beautiful Job Ryky!👍
The 6” birch wood is my daily driver in the kitchen. The handle’s only ever had Boos Mystery Oil applied to it over the years. So far so good. Mine is less amber than yours however.
Nicely done.
Love the knive.wall behind you. Maybe try a sealer on the wood.
too dark. had to remove it
This is a great video, I'm going to do this to my Birchwood on the weekend. Thank you
let me know how it turns out
Very helpful and beautiful results, although you'd think at $300, they would have done this at the factory.
For anyone wanting more info on treating their wooden-handled items, you might read through some bushcrafting forums. We have lenghty discussions about it and there are myriad recipes for achieving jiat the right finish you are looking for.
Not all linseed oils are the same, and every boiled linseed oil I have seen is toxic. Happy hunting!
It is nice to see how to improve and sharpening videos :) I was wondering about a "to show" how to use Japanese traditional knives like Deba, nakiri, yanagi, and honesuki. Or a introductory series that shows these knives in action and their pros and cons. Such special purpose knives could be interesting in a western kitchen:) I would like to see how to sharpen single edge traditional blades :) Also cleavers, chinese chef knife etc :) All of you content is great :)
I know I’m commenting late on this video, but why would anyone pay $300 for a knife we have to seal the handle on ourselves? This should be part of the manufacturing process. This version looks beautiful!
Absolutely perfect result! Just ordered these knives. Want to treat them immediately. Do you think eatable linseed oil is possible to use? Does is has to be for furnish, or is these two oils completely different?
I loved your knife, but i also want to make the knives a little more bright to match my furnitures. Maybe try a littles less linseed oil, maybe 30% linseed, 30% varnish, and 40% mineral spirits? Any recommandations here?
You could also probably just buy a small can of Osmo Thin (0.125L) if you don't want to buy the individual components. It's a hard wax oil blend and applies really easily. Also great for furniture.
The "raw" handle is like that so you get a good grip on it. After a few years of use, the handle will absorb oils from your hand and begin to develop a patina. Rally washing your handle should only be done if you got some type of meat contamination on it, most of the time you don't grab foot with your cutting hand then grab the handle again with out washing your hands first. I would just use olive oil to condition the handle and speed up this process. Now I am writing this before watching the whole video, sorry but im off to work..
THANK YOU. You are one of the few that "gets it"
The unfisnished handle is so a master is one with their tool and over time it will be personal to him (or her) and him alone.
Nothing wrong with finishing the handle, and casual cooks can do so easily, but a master will let it develop for ihm uniquely
i get your point. this knife was actually used in my personal collection completely raw, until i made this video. this was made to address "what CAN be done".
Absolutely this is a good service for those people that want it, and there ARE a lot of them. But there are also people that understand the hands of a master.
I'm sorry but olive oil is a very bad way to condition the wood handle of a knife, because it will go rancid.
@@Maxime-ho9iv we are talking about the natual oil from the cooks body.
I agree oilive oil would be horrible
Hey Ricky I found your chanel about a month ago and love your videos I hope you and your family are doing well I hope you keep making videos
Linseed oil is actually not the best choice to be honest. First of all you need absolutely pure raw Linseed oil which is the only one that is food safe. Also, in the woodworking world Linseed oil is known to darken the wood over time, which can be a nice effect for very light wood, but not that much for others, except if you want your handle to become dark brown. Also, contrary to Tung oil which stays flexible, it is brittle when it hardens, not that nice for something you work with.
Since it's a japanese knife, I think it would be better to apply what japanese apply.
Which is Camelia oil. It's food safe, uv resistant, and does not change the color of your wood.
And since it's a non-hardening oil, they will usually have something called a Kurobara to quickly apply oil everytime after cleaning their knife after use.
It can be applied both to the blade to protect it from corrosion and to the wood in the same operation.
(The Kurobara is a little applicator that always has oil in it in which a cotton wick reside to apply the oil on the wood. It is also used to do the same with woodworking tools like chisels.)
So cool. Doing this to my set next week.
I prefer the natural look
Pretty well any wood oil works, like tung or Danish but I'm not sure how safe those are around food. You could also use cyanoacrylate to seal it, even on the natural finish. That may require some smoothing afterward though depending how thin it was when used.
Welcome back! Nice video. Looking forward to more videos soon. Ready to update your wetstone series with King Hyper, Pride Abrasives, etc...?
Another good video thanks Ryky
Great Idea!
Linseed oil has a chemical reaction with air and gets very hard alone.. With turpentine or the like of course to bring in into the wood..
I used my own urine, being naturally very orange it made the wood pop. Sometimes I get salt built up but nothing more urine can't take care of right.
i tried this and they fired me right there in the kitchen :(
Man, look at those damascus patterns
What would the solution look like for the Miyabi black line? Different wood but similar need.
Doing my Miyabi 5000 MCD Black now. I used only linseed oil. Looking good so far after two layers. Will apply the third one tomorrow.
Thank you for finally getting around to doing this. Quick question.... once the mixture is created, how long can it be stored in a glass jar before it needs to be disregard?
the longest i have stored in glass jar is about a year, so i can attest it'll at least work after being stored for that length of time
Can someone please tell me the formuka I cant find it.
Great video! I just bought this knife and it is incredible… I’d like to use your method for my handle as well but only have linseed oil at the moment. Would it be ok to only use Linseed oil?
It's like buying wooden furniture. You have to apply some sort of oil. Although I would have thought it's already done out of the box
Probably should be for the price... but maybe they realize some of the knife community take enjoyment out of these diy projects
With a knife that expensive it is nice having a choice between what oil you want to use.
You are thinking of a different demographic than what Miyabi designed this for
Unfinished is for a GRIP for a working cook or a gourmet cook. Over years of use, oils from the actual hand of the user himself with patina the handle in a way that is uniquely PERSONAL to that individual cook. This finish is for a person whose SUCH a perfectionist and at such a high end that they want their tool to be one with the master.
Since many of ryky's fans are only casual home cooks but like beautiful knives, this is a great video. Nothing wrong with a user that wants something just pretty out of the box But it is not what Miaybi intended. If you buy a Messermeister Royale or Olivia they are also unfinished for the same reason
@@hrhamada1982 Hi. Thanks for the detailed response. Obviously I'm far away from being an expert 😀 But now I get it. Makes sense. But what if the chef has very dry hands? 😂
@@franzschubert246 then he'd better hope he has a loving wife. LOL Fortunately some chefs are treat like rock stars now days.
great video! I just bought this knife set and ordered refined coconut oil and beeswax, I may do this instead
Love the treated handle. However I can't bring myself to stain that beautiful original natural wood colour. For someone looking to just apply the thinnest coating to just add some water resistance while minimizing any colour change, what mixture would you recommend between varnish and mineral spirits?
Any oil you rich to it will bring out color because the handle is already dehydrated. I used cutting board oil, it's odorless, colorless, and tasteless
@@TranceCore3 was it a mixture or just straight mineral oil?
Hey good video ! I have 4 of those birch wood miyabi, and love them ! For the handle I used plain coconut wax, doesn’t last very long but it does protect from the water. Is the linseed oil more durable ?
Is there a mixture that it doesn’t change the color of the wood too much? I like the more natural tone to the wood.
hi, what are the formula ratios for the mix?
That looks impressive. Better than the original.
yeah... not bad at all
Definitely will be doing this to my birch wood!
Boos Mystery Oil.....NSF, beeswax and if you oil handle regularly and hand wash your knives, the handle won't have toxic hardeners or anything you wouldn't want in your food. I inspect restaurants by the way.
How often and what combination
Awesome knife maybe in 2 to 3 years i can add it to my wish list 😂😂 😁
Thank you for your video. I purchased few Miyabi birchwood knives and want to treat them but really like the original stock color. Can I do 50/50 mineral spirits and Wood Bowl Finish without linseed oil?
Yes. It will be a relatively thin mixture, but will work just fine. Will have less of an amber hue than what i have
Did you end up doing the 50/50 mixture without linseed oil?
I wonder if you can send the knife off to get the handle stabilized. That would probably be a more permanent solution if it's possible.
Thank you, doing this to my set!
Beautiful
“Mineral spirits” ? Or “Mineral oil” as mineral oil is food grade…please verify for us. Also can I use this mixture on Myabi Black handle? Knife looks fantastic by the way!
Love your stuff !!!! Please review work sharp ken onion with knife grinder attachment and get a 18” leather strop belt to test
Great video. I passed along to my uncle who has the birchwood miyabi's. Have you tried Odie's oil? It's not the cheapest, but came out great on my Masamoto KS. It didn't change the color of the magnolia wood handle much at all. I didn't want the tint that BLO adds to such a blond wood.
Curious about your selection to include a top coat varnish over something like Tung Oil or a mixture with beeswax, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.(and General has a Seal-a Cell product). My worry is: Varnishes (like the salad bowl product) are typically used as a top coat. When a topcoat on furniture becomes contaminated, the repair is sanding it away. Unlike furniture, knife handles are constantly subject to contaminants.
Would a wax coating be better by virtue of being able to remove the dirty layer of protection and apply a fresh one?
I don't know enough to say but typically, when varnish top coats need maintenance, it's a more involved process..