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Beginner Friendly Lithium Battery Capacity Test Method
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- čas přidán 4. 02. 2020
- $26 capacity tester that is beginner friendly (sponsored links): s.click.aliexpr...
It is $45 on amazon: amzn.to/36UqbyE
$10 85A Capacity tester: s.click.aliexpr...
Capacity Shunts for your system (and hall effect sensor): www.mobile-sol...
This video was NOT sponsored, and I bought all of the testers above with my own money.
Does off-grid solar confuse you?
Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-sola...
Join our DIY solar community!
#1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike:
www.diysolarfo...
Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link):
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If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out EnergyPal! They will price out a system and get your house offgrid: energypal.com/...
My Solar Equipment Recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):
12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-sol...
Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-sol...
Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-sol...
Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-sol...
Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-sol...
DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-sol...
My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar Products:
Signature Solar
Offgrid One-Stop-Shop. Best Value 48V LiFePO4, Victron and Offgrid Specific Heat Pumps:
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Current Connected
SOK, Victron, Mr.Cool Heatpumps and High Quality Components:
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AmpereTime
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Renogy
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Rich Solar
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Battery Hookup
Cheap cell deals
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5% off code: diysolar
Contact Information:
I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com
Join the forum at diysolarforum.... if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com
Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com
Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link):
amzn.to/2Aj4dX4
If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):
12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html
Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html
Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html
Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html
DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html
Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes:
-Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp
-Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels:
www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator:
us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7
-AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around:
amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out:
richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out:
shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p
-Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals
bit.ly/2mIxSqt
10% off code: diysolar
-Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA:
watts247.com/?wpam_id=3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Contact Information:
I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com
Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
If using this to test a 6v golf cart battery is it best to set the amps to the 20 rating and let it go for 20 hours or is there a short cut verify the amp hour capacity of the battery that's less time consuming?
@Willprowse can you please review the dl24ew version thanks
low voltage limit - each double click adds 10 value per click,
Thanks for this video, I would never have figured this machine out with the Chinese English directions. This video was soooo helpful!!
I've been using the same tester for months in my review videos and it works great. You can also power it via 5v usb instead of needing to plug it into the wall. Good for testing outdoors.
Oh that's what you use?!?! I remember seeing you use some kind of tester! That's awesome so glad you give it a thumbs up :D if you and I don't kill it, no one can haha
I bet the fet will burn out one day. Would be cool to make it water cooled
@@WillProwse Yep! I only use it to DC discharge solar generators or test panels so the power limit has been a non issue. The fins bend real easy and I can see myself eventually breaking the fan but I keep it in a plastic case now. I wish they had something like this for AC testing inverters!
Will, you can do 20 amps at over 13 volts with this tester if you make some changes in the setup alarm screen called > 185 W. After you have noted what the TEMP reading is on your data screen while drawing 184 watts for a few minutes with a 12v, LiFePO4, drop in battery, (my unit reads 70 Celsius in my house), you can set the tester in a cooler full of frozen water bottles, or do what I do and set it on the face of a portable desktop fan, or any other trick that cools the heatsink better. You should see the TEMP go down a lot. Now you can increase the > 185 W threshold to 260 W. While you are cooling the heatsink more efficiently with whatever technique you decide to use, you can ramp up the amps until the TEMP gets back to where it was when you started. I can now do a 20 amp draw on a 100 AH battery for a true .2C rate test, as long as I set the tester on the face of the portable desk fan. The TEMP stays below 70 Celsius. You can't set the threshold very much higher without the extra cooling or you will burn up the MOFET under the fan and heatsink assembly. I tried it so others wouldn't have to ( that's me saving face, LOL) Hope this is useful to someone.
I have the same load tester and, like you, I had a preconceived notion that it would be cheap and inaccurate. Imagine my surprise when I compared the voltage and current values the load tester reported with readings from my high dollar Fluke multimeter. Less than 1% difference! Be careful to always turn both the course and fine current adjust knobs fully CCW before connecting a battery source. Should you forget it will cost you about $5 to replace the mosfet. Thanks for the great video.
Great review !
But, the "low voltage protection" does not disconect the load. It only use a buzzer to warn you. So if you are not here you can kill your single cell without BMS
Oh crap thank you! Didn't know that. Thank you
I'll pin your comment so others can see
wire relay to the buzzer. fixed.
@@ninja5672 Wow--thanks for the heads up!
Supplementary Heads Up ! There are TWO versions of this unit, 150W & 180W so do pay attention to which one you are getting.
IF testing batteries directly, DO put an appropriate sized FUSE between the battery & the load tester. Will makes a comment in the video BUT people are missing it.
Will, from everything you've said about Battle Born that's where I was headed for 2 of them. But you are giving me the confidence to build my own battery bank & save Serious Money instead!!! THANK'S Will.. TAKE CARE..
2:55
Wow, you really do try hard for us! Thank you
You can modify the heatsinked version for nearly 300w. Good to combine with a LVD in certain test cases. Did a video on this a month or so ago. Good stuff :)
One word of advice, those fan testers are known to fail at some point in time and they fail in a dead short. Always add a fuse between the battery and the tester.
Good point
DIY Projects Will does mention having a fuse at 5mins 29 seconds👍
What size fuse would be recommended for a 150w connection? I went up to 160w
w/o a fuse and poof it fried.
@@xraykadiddlehopper8067 depends how many amps you pull. 150W at 3.2v is less than 50 amps and at 12v it's 12.5 amps. Use a fuse slightly larger than what you plan on pulling. So if you want 50 Amps. go with a 60 amp fuse.
not so beginner friendly I guess, slow down Will
Probably said by others but the power lost in the leads is not included in power measured. I.e. the capacity measured would be somewhat lower than actual. A "four lead" unit compensates for this as the extra leads measure the battery voltage at the cell and the power consumed then includes the lead losses. Great work Will! you are awesome :-) .
It makes little practical difference at these levels.
I love your videos and I have watched this one several times. I would love to see another dedicated video to finding out a battery’s capacity. I’m still left with a bunch of questions, like……
Do you charge the battery to a certain voltage?
What voltage do you then stop at?
If I have a 3.7 volt battery, what do I charge it with? What voltage do I charge it to?
If I have a 12 volt battery, what do I charge it to? Is there a universal charger?
I would just love to see a super in-depth video crossing all battery voltages, charge voltages, discharge voltages, chargers, and examples. Thanks a lot!
Did you ever find a good video?
I'm having trouble understanding the process
I bought this capacity tester to test a cheap "135AH" LIFEPO4 battery off ebay Australia, it came back as 70AH LOL.. I returned it, but the seller has since sold hundreds to unsuspecting people & they are even leaving positive feedback.. I also used it to test a "90AH" AGM I bought off ebay a couple of months back, it tested at 15AH!!!! Also returned.. Definetley worth the investment! I have since found a decent "100AH" LIFEPO4 from LanPlus Australia, it tested at 98AH. Happy enough with that.
I picked up one of those little heat sink/fan combo testers the other day, hooked it up this morning to a 4-cell 280Ah LiFePo4 pack. Sucker works great! Ten hours in and it's not even halfway through the expected capacity.
Gi’day Will, always a pleasure watching ya mate, luv from downunder…✌️
I just wanted to let you know that I purchased one of these capacity testers like I said I would and I have a total of 3 lithium iron phosphate batteries that I wanted to get tested. On the third one the load tester popped and sparked and the big main mosfet in the middle failed!! I'm glad that I ordered this from Amazon and I have started a return!!
Yeah mine just blew up too!! Need to post an update. what a bummer!!
@@WillProwse i have 3 of these from a year ago. Now not one of them will turn on.
Is there a way to "reset" them? None of them "blew up" or smoked or anything like that.
@@WillProwse Do you have an updated video for this issue? I can't find it if it was posted.
Hey Will I just want to thank you for all your videos. Because of your videos I’ve learned much about solar abs actually put together my own 12v 2580kwh system. This video actually taught me to check the capacity of my batteries (running as we speak lol) but yeah thanks again
I got one of these last week in the mail. Its pretty cool. have used it to check the life of some of my old portable phone charger banks. tonight I will use it to check the capacity on my new LG Chem li-ion 120AH modules. It would take to long and get way to hot with a regular RC charger. the cooler does a good job. I also will put a small heat sink on the back for heavier loads.
First I really enjoy your videos and the amount of research you carry out before posting.
When I first ran across this device I was ready to buy and held off only because many have posted the "unit fried" or it didn't work out of the box. It would be great if details on why they fail and how to fix them that is if the failure is something simple. I am a middle of the road hobbyist but don't have the tools to replace those tiny SMD components.
Is there anyway to do rapid testing to estimate overall battery capacity? Maybe through the use if variables like internal resistance and such?
I bet your workshop stays warm. Good video.
Thanks Will but you didn't cover the Test result part. How do you know your capacity? Is it just a readout on the display? And how does the low voltage cutoff factor in to the calculations? Since you are only testing its capacity to a certain low voltage level, how do you determine entire capacity if you ran it down even further?
Good basic testing info, thanks. One comment: At 0:58 when you characterize 116 Ah as a "ripoff" for grade B cells, I think that's a bit harsh. That's 96.7% of rated capacity; for grade B cells, at that price point, is quite reasonable in my opinion.
Yes true. Should have been nicer. Good point
Good video, of course! One question to anyone. Is the low voltage setting on this device an actual disconnect or just a warning alarm? Just to be clear does the low voltage setting on this capacity tester turn automatically turn it off when the low voltage is reached on the battery or does it just produce a warning alarm?
Oops, just saw my answer. It just does Not stop the device, Just Warns you.
I got this Tester for the last year or so and do all my Amp tests on this unit when I do 18650 Lithium packs up to 200Amp
I got that exact one, I could not disagree. A very important tool. I likely will be forced to build a 48V battery for my 10kw solar panels. Batteries are impossible to get here in the Philippines. Cells are had to get and iffy at best in quality.
Hello from Brazil; I like your project to test the cells. You are cutte guy.
Why not just power your inverter through an inline DC Power meter? The power meter logs Amp-hours, power, voltage, current, peak current, min voltage and more, and only costs €10 on eBay from China and will withstand 100 Amps. The procedure would be to just start up your inverter and power your usual loads (computer, lights, whatever), and read off the Ah value from the meter when depleted. Advantage is that the energy isn't wasted as heat, it's used to run useful appliances that you'd have run anyway. And the max discharge rate is way higher than the 300W of this load tester so it would finish faster.
If you're going to look it up on eBay, it's the one with the blue case and the two-line dot matrix display. The title of the cheapest one is "LCD Digital Battery Analyze Monitor Watt Meter DC Ammeter RC Power Amp 60V/100A"
Thanks for the video Will. I needed a way to test my battery packs for my ebike's.
Me too :-)
yes there are lots of shady crooked dealers on... it seems like most of them have shop and then along... thank you very much this is a very good tutorial.....
This is awesome, exactly what i needed. Last Time i used my fishing trolling Motor. Had to write down every hour the A to get like 90% what a Pain....
I bought a 300Watt B&K Precision DC Electronic Load tester that was a demo unit. Saved a lot of money by buying a demo unit, but even as a demo unit these units are many, many times more expensive and really do no make since to own for DIY. Buy a $100 lead acid float battery and a $1000 DC load, or buy a $1000 LI battery and a couple $26 DC Loads. Oh...the choices in life.
Hi, which specific model did you buy?
Could you test Edison Nickel iron battery, love your tests and videos.
Just posted a video on nickel iron batteries here: czcams.com/video/60CBlgRTZmY/video.html
Thanks for the idea! Have been wanting to film about those for ages
@@WillProwse Wow, That was the fastest I have ever seen a video response to a question.
This is interesting along this line.
The Edison battery is very durable, but it has a number of drawbacks," said Hongjie Dai, professor of chemistry. "A typical battery can take hours to charge, and the rate of discharge is also very slow."
Now, Dai and his colleagues have dramatically improved the performance of this century-old technology. The Stanford team has created an ultrafast nickel-iron battery that can be fully charged in about 2 minutes and discharged in less than 30 seconds. The results are published in the June 26 issue of the journal Nature Communications.
Graduate student Hailiang Wang, lead author of the study, said the team managed to increase the charging and discharging rate by nearly 1,000 times.
I work with on Electrochemistry of Ni-Fe battery, not viable for solar applications. However, they're great to substation backup especially in hotter countries where Li ion degrade faster & thermal runaway is just around the corner. A great Will, thank you 😊
according to the amazon listing the reason for turning down the load settings to 0 before connecting the battery is because you can burn out the load transistor and resistors.
can you use a anti spark xt90 connector is it a matter of the inrush that destroys the unit?
i have made a "simple" setup for testing a battery not loosing all the energy to heat.
( battery1 to test (with bms) --> energy meter --> inverter to AC --> battery2 charger --> battery2 (with bms) )
battery2 is much bigger than battery1 and practically empty ;)
I like your way of thinking.
On the topic of capacity testing....have you retested any of your cells after some cycles or time? See if the 10yrs/1000s of cycles life are true. Would be interesting to see after cycles and after "floating" for weeks or months.
I would love to see a more detailed video about the C-Rating. I'm still confused about that. I see 20-C (on the battery), and a 1, 2, 0.1, 0.2, and so on in your on-screen postings and i'm confused. and, how would i use the c-rating when testing or comparing battery / system setup and what-not's. thanks.
I think a Will Prowse clip on that would be cool too. In wondering along the same line, I ran into a pdf Guide to Understanding Battery Specifications: here is what that says: "C- and E- rates - In describing batteries, discharge current is often expressed as a C-rate in order to normalize against battery capacity, ... A C-rate is a measure of the rate at which a battery is discharged relative to its maximum capacity. A 1C rate means that the discharge current will discharge the entire battery in 1 hour. For a battery with a capacity of 100 Amp-hrs, this equates to a discharge current of 100 Amps. A 5C rate for this battery would be 500 Amps, and a C/2 rate would be 50 Amps. Similarly, an E-rate describes the discharge power. A 1E rate is the discharge power to discharge the entire battery in 1 hour.
These do NOT turn off the load properly. As soon as the load turns off from low voltage, the voltage goes back up and it draws more current until it drops again.
Question! can I safely hookup this monitor to a 36v/55Ah lithium battery? Question no. 2~ can I plug it into a 120v outlet?
Will, how Would you recommend I do a full capacity test on a used battery that I'm considering purchasing? I can't Arrange a 6 hour test, What I don't wanna get ripped off on a large lithium battery purchase... Help!
Cool video as usual! If all goes well this year I plan to upgrade from my 12v AGM system to a Lifepo4 either 24 or 48v one, hopefully over 300ah total. Found a deal on used PV panels. The question is, do I need to check just to voltage to make sure they are working or the Amps as well? In either case would I also need to test them on a Sunny day or would part sun work?
Love your videos! I noticed that the voltage at the battery with NO LOAD verses voltage at the battery WITH LOAD (.2C) are substantially different. Which voltage measurement should determine the top (3.65v) and bottom (2.6v) voltages?
Can this be used to determine battery health (SOH) of a 12v LiFePO4? I utilize 4 in a 48v series for my mower, but recently have had trouble with charging.
If you want faster testing can you just run two of these at the same time? I don't see an obvious reason why not, but curious if there's anything I'm missing.
Update please, links don’t work to AliExpress
Where does the 185 watt number come from? You tested all 3 of these at 185w, why that number?
185 is the limit of which the heater can operate at with out damaging itself
Great tutorial! To speed up the test, can I use 2 of these in parallel?
Will it sounds like a good camping heater?
Maybe convinced The dealer to throw in a carbon box it can stay in
If you want to test higher c ratings couldn't you just connect 2 in parallel?
So I don't know exactly why; but I just tried to set up the capacity tester for a test and was starting to increase the watt knob up to around 100 W when suddenly the unit started to fizzle and pop and suddenly burst into flames. Scared the heck out of me and also could have burned my house down. Just an FYI on safety of the unit. Luckily the test was only starting when the fault occurred while dialing the watts.
Great video, going to buy one of these myself. Could you please tell me what the "two wires connected to an xt 60" are and where I can buy them
Will, I keep getting that annoying beeping sound, without the battery even hooked up due to my low voltage shutoff at
Question: Will, on your videos when you test battery capacity, you're looking at a computer monitor. What are you using; I like the graph and I'd rather order that. Thanks!
I would believe it's a West Mountain Radio CBA
Can you put two load testers in parallel to speed up discharge?
Hi Will Thanks for all that you do. Great help I have 4- 12V 200Ah batteries. I am having trouble with the batteries shutting down. Is there a way to load test the batteries to fine the bad battery . A multi meter reads 27.9v on all 4
I’m stumped! Need advice. I bought 2 PowerUrUs 12V 200amphr batteries for my Class A diesel pusher. I’ve got a magnum charger/inverter. I set it CUSTOM w 14.4v Absorb, 13.5 Float, 14.4 Equalize (per BattleBorn/Magnum setup video). It bulk charges at ~133 amps, then absorbs around 60amps, then floats at 0amps. PowerUrUs app is quite worthless. Ran capacity test with this tester. Zeroed it, set it at 150W, ~13amps and the test on both batteries was only ~21 amphrs, not 200+ when the BMS shut the test down. Test only took ~2hrs, not 15 hrs. App says low voltage protection, PowerUrUs charger applied. All lights are green and no amps being added when the battery is fully discharged. It’s 61 degrees outside.
What is the cheapest tester for checking the capacity of my 15 year old 36v Lithium Cycle battery?
Will - do you have a video on lifepo4 battery chargers ? Using a NOCO 5A currently but looks like its broke now ....
I just received the one with the pink looking fan... i have a question on these...
I set low cutoff to 11.5 and had volt meter on battery directly, I noticed the volt difference between the two was like .2-.4 volts.
Tester turned off at 11.5 but volt meter showed battery was still at 11.8. I think I was running the tester at about 10 amps.
Should I test capacity with tester at 11.5 (fla) or bump it down to like 11.2 so battery meter showes battery at 11.5?
Yeah i have the same experience. Started with one cell at 3.3v.Turned the tester on at 10A. The multimeter displays 3.30V and the tester 3.0V. Did you find the answer why there is a difference?
@@frankprumers8902 same ..did you ever figure out ?
Same here :(
Well I bought one of those load testers was messed up saying voltage of battery increased as I added amps lol , saying it was at 18.5 volts while at 180
Take the positive voltage on the buzzer, thru a 1K resistor to a 2N2222 to a relay that will disconnect the load. Solved.
It would also double as a handy tent heater for my next inland bike tour.
Will, very time I have a question about batteries all I have to do is look on CZcams and there you are with the answer !!! Thanks William Orange county, ca.
okay I got two of those fan battery capacity testers
please have a video on how to use the particular ports and how to test the gt4000s
can you do. a test on a powrbank
Dude your reviews are so professional! I’m trying to build a bms for Nissan Leaf modules…I have wired them to 15.8 volts so I can use them for car audio amplifiers…any thoughts? These are extremely powerful batteries and I bought a bunch of them
MY QR code says my cells are from 2021. I just bought them new. Is that a Problem?
Thank You for the informative vids. Can anyone recommend a programmable/adjustable low voltage disconnect for a 20-30vdc system?
HI,
Thanks for the video.
I have no clue on how to use this tool... what settings do i need to use in order to test a 36V 12.8Ah battery? Thanks a lot!
Can it really handle 185 W for long time? I heard about it will burn the Mosfet with 150+ W. The accuracy of these cheap dummy loads is not really as good as claimed. It can have 3..5% error and it doesn't you 4 wire measuring. You will already loose some W in the wires when loaded with 10+ Amps.
Ordered one immediately when I saw this.
It is going as I am having a beer out.
Hope it cuts off at 2.6v
They can burn out at high voltages. Keep it low. Under 100w
can you get away with not having to turn down the load knobs before each test by using an anti spark xt90 connector?
the anti spark xt90 connectors are used to pre charge the capacitors in devices and they do it by having a resistor that is connected inline to the load thereby you dont get the big jolt of power that can damage connectors and sometimes even blow reverse polarity protection diodes (that is a flaw in the cheap battery spot welder where the inrush current can blow the diodes in the trigger section).
Nobody is talking about this clearly in the comments (not that I found), but to set the low voltage disconnect you need to double-click (not hold) the button. However, on some units it doesn't disconnect, it just warns with a beep; and even if it disconnects, the cell/battery is still connected to the unit and loses voltage. So beware!
Another great video.
A little off topic...but close... how do you increase voltage into the thousands? And test it? I’m thinking portable electric fencing (got chickens?) as a diy project.
Thanks for sharing this info on such a neat device. Can you test super capacitors to see if the Farad value claims match what is sold?
I am interested in buying these 16.2 Volt 83.3 Farad super capacitors sold on ebay and Amazon. Are they really what they are.
Single cell with BMS capacity test.
Could you just connect all (4) leads to the positive terminal?
Theoretically it should give the same results for each connection. What do you think?
Noob here. 😊 Can someone please let me know if those wires that connect to the 12v battery with alligator clamps to the tester is purchasable on Amazon?!
Because of not null internal resistance of the battery you need to test it at the same current every time. Test results made at different currents incomparable.
In the datasheets of the good brands batteries usually exists chart with usable capacity vs discharge current.
Hi, Will. Do you know a lithium battery charger where we can specify the maximum charge voltage. I've been trying to find one that let's me charge for example to 4.0V instead of 4.2V. I've the Opus charger and Skyrc Imax B6, but the minimum voltage the skyrc let's me use is only 4.14V. Thanks and congrats for this great channel.
Does this work for lithium ion?
Hello friend I buy 1 if that, last night I empty 5 pcs 14v lifepo4 battery pack, works very well, but when I plug it out and thus morning plug it again, device will turn on but when I connect any cell or battery, shows voltage of it but not work volume controls and current not change from zero and also cooling fan not work, do you know what's problem of it?
Who do you buy from at aliexpress? I had 2 orders with different sellers; and nether delivered.
interesting video. I would like to know if its possible to use this same setup to put a load of 40/70 amps on a battery in order to test the output of a rebuilt alternator? Thank you in advance.
70Amp x 12Volts = 840W boom! With this 185W tester......
@@MrMaster72 thank you very much good sir. I have plans for it :)
Question if I may Will, when manufacturers state capacity, are they measuring to the recommended low voltage cut off point or are they measuring to the absolute death of the battery? Is a 100ah the useable capacity? Or should I expect like 80ah to 2.6v?
Great question!
With thin leads I guess the voltage readout is some 0.5V lower at 20 Amps. Does the test unit have some I*R cable voltage drop compensation or maybe separate test leads?
At high current you may disconnect to early if you do not compensate for the cable voltage drop.
I just picked up one of these capacity testers off eBay and I can't get it to work. I think I got wrapped off. The knobs will never make the amperage or voltage move. I can't figure it out. Any ideas?
The device you are using in this video comes with a USB port and the USB cable with positive and negative internals on one end, and USB on the other. Can this be used instead of using the positive and negative terminals on the device?
Can i heat a van with it?
My input only measures 0.07v on every battery. Do I have a setting weong?
What if the LifePo4 battery has a BMS with Bluetooth? Would the BMS Bluetooth reading be accurate enough if you hooked the battery to a load in order to find out the Ah's of the battery?
If you use this on a newly charged LGM Sealed Lead Acid, and don't set a minimum test voltage, did you just destroy the battery when you get back? I mean isn't it bad to run that into the lowest voltage (like 0)?
Thank you for the video so far Will, I learned a lot from you. Can you review the DL24 version? It looks like DL24 is an upgraded version of what you reviewed in this video.
Did you test the USB input? Especially USB-C is a nice feature if it works good I think.
Thanks! What is OCPD? Did you add a fuse between the tester and battery or do you mean the battery has it?
I have a Qwork Battery Monitor Voltmeter Ammeter that uses a shunt. You mentioned that I could use something like this to do a capacity test. How would I do that exactly? My battery is a 48V 105AH LiFEPO4 battery hooked up to a golf cart. Thanks.
I been playing with mine. I thought it did shut down when the voltage got below the setpoint but maybe I was distracted by the beeping. The voltage levels are really hard to adjust. They go full scale in one direction 300V or zero and they won't reverse direction. This may go back.
I am curious, do you test a 12V Lifepo4 battery to verify Ah and Wh rating by letting them run down until the BMS shuts down the battery due to low voltage or until running it down to 10% SOC or so?
Hi Bud.Are you sure this tester has a low voltage cut off? Or does it just sound a beeper when the battery reaches .The low voltage set premeter.
Hi, do you discharge the battery only or do you charge the battery as well?
How do you decrease the low voltage disconnect? I’m trying to do so with my 3.2v cell. What voltage would you recommend?