You are explaining things perfectly. Man one thing you know is Quadrajets. Man i never peered into a carb of any kind and that original series you did i totally rebuilt my Rochester Quadrajet on my 1980 TA and i have you to thank for that. By the way ... the part where you talk about ensuring your initial timing is correct before digging into your carburetor - Tyler it couldn't be more correct in my case. I rebuilt my carb thanks to you and i learned a lot and i did a top notch job. But you know what my carb actually internally was in very good shape to start with. Having a car i know nothing about its past - it was still good to know in the end that the carb is good to go. And with your help setup and tuned right. But guess what... a year later i found my best performance gains by digging out the timing light my step dad gave me and realizing that the initial timing was 2.5 degrees retarded than stock specs. I have since adjusted that and my TA really performs much better with more torque etc. I was afraid and didn't understand how all of that timing works with HEI distribuitors etc. So i guess what i am saying is .. i think a lot of us noobies ( Your faithful youtubers) would learn a lot from a ignition timing series perhaps with a certain red car with a mopar v8 in the background of this video that you have been hiding exhaust work from us on :) Hah ok 1 more drink for me!
I have an 86 Camaro sport coupe, she’s my first older car I’ve bought planning on getting her in car show condition one day, and she’s running rich I have next to no experience with carbs your video was very informative and helpful gonna see if I can’t figure it out with the knowledge you’ve provided
yo Tyler, Great video, I'm a life long hotrodder, started out a chevy guy now own two fords, Quadrajets are very well thought out carbs, and designed for max fuel economy, low end TQ yet have monster sized secondaries for passing- merging. My financially challenged friend has a q-jet barley run flooding, stuck needle, your long winded explanations are a big help refreshing my memory, before I try to help this guy again, PS I'm a surfer from Santa Cruz and enjoy hearing a real American accent un-rushed by todays rat race.
Nirwaiavani first hawaii prince landed in santa cruz 1885 surf city usa. rodents are top of gregarious gemini not bottum of darwin food chain lack of vision or outrite deception lie many are good beings. Just as in people , same amount of good as bad. Friendly trap and release, Alive. Smog guy charge 250 unplug hose to cheat pass smog but screwed up air fuel mixture. Chargeing $200 again this biennial. Should of just rebuilt or swap out for $500. 😁4x4 350 5.7L 80 classic K5 Chevy Blazer should parade historical.
I have an '86 Chevy Silverado that I've had for bout 15 yrs. i recently bought a period correct carb(m4med),had it rebuilt and installed from an old school mechanic in my area. since then,even in 30 degree weather,during cold starts,i give it half a pump and it starts right up...just like a hot start...a wonderful thing.
WhoSaidTyler I try to watch your videos when I have the chance(videos i might have missed and/or new videos i haven't seen yet.) You do a good job w explainin these carbs,issues people have w them,etc...Keep up the good job on the good info!
I got a question to ponder your mind Tyler. I got one that runs great carb. first start is good untell the motor gets hot,once hot you shut off the truck and the carb. sits there and drips fuel down the intake,Hot it runs terrible cold the carb. runs great! Any idea?
I had my Quadrajet overhauled I had to open it back up and I found that they remove the spring that holds the needle and seat to the float arm do you feel that this will cause a problem
thanks for the help your videos help out a lot it turned out to be whoever rebuilt it before didnt set the float height correct got it from the junkyard
I junked the edelbrock that was on my monte and bought the original quadrejet back on electronic quad and the electronic distriibuter back in what a big difference love the quadrejet s always have .now I'm having a he'll of a time trying to find a original throttle and decent cable bracket for it now has the 2 cables on it and the round hole for the power brakes I need it so my kick down cable adjust rite
Great video!! I 'm wondering if color of exhaust residue can be helpfully on whether it's running lean or rich like a whitish compared to a blackish color! they say a medium grey is great for highway driving and a dark grey is city driving?? what do you think???
Hey hey bud gots a few questions for you.... first of all great vids!!!! second, I'm a fan of qjets but my old man don't take to kind to them!!!! my 4 barrel runs very rich but i didn't know.much about setting the air fuel mixture until recently... Also, the choke on it doesnt work so i hooked it up to a manual choke which isnt too effective.... it's a vacuum operated deal!!! is it fixable? is it worth rebuilding the carb? It's on my 1980 k10. with the ls9 350..... thanks in advance if you see this. I'm getting tired of dealing with it lol.... also it runs so crappy I i hooked the secondaries up to the throttle so it opens with the throttle
When you said that a high performance engine could actually suck the float chamber dry of gas, I would imagine that could be an intermittent hesitation situation.
the issue im having on my 1980 corvette is that the choke is not opening enough on a cold start and because of that it runs very rich, smoking straight gas while trying to stall but not stalling, after letting it idle for a few seconds the choke thermostat kicks in as the engine warms up and the car then runs smooth on high idle, after letting it idle for a few more seconds and depressing the gas pedal and letting go the car will low idle smoothly and run smooth the rest of the way until letting the car cool down over night, im confused as to what is supposed to open the choke as soon as the engine starts but when is not hot enough for the choke thermostat to take over control and smooth the engine out?
Skip what the haters say. You explain things for everyone to understand!! Not just motor heads! Hello, not sure how to reach you other than here. My 82 GMC carb backfires when the weather is warmer and the truck drives for about 10 miles. Sometimes its bad some time it just once. and sometimes not at all. Is this my carb.? The motor is a 350 Goodwrench aftermarket install. No cats. Any ideas?
Any ideas??? Drivers side primary is discharging fuel at idle. Idle mixture screw has to be closed all the way off on that side. The other side is fine and it's mixture screw adjusts fine.???
im haveing a flooding problem did a rebuild and still haveing the same issue's checked all the things u covered in your video on fixing a flooding carb it dosent turn off on me but is leaking gas on to the intake on the drivers side and runs real rich lot of carbon on tail the tail pipe hopeing your can help me out with some of knowledge i also noticed its missing the black cup inside the carb and the black plastic cover that goes over the float check the black nitrle float in water was fine but got a brass one just in case havent installed yet i was wondering sence the cover for the float is missing could it be that it needs it
It's needs to have all of those pieces, but also make sure you install a NEW float, new seat, new needle, make sure the needle is suspended correctly by the little wire, make sure the seat has the metal washer under it and lastly check and double check the float height. Good Luck.
I have a question for this carburetor if is hard to start in the summer when it starts the rpm stay up even when the engine is warmed up...I don't what it is but I got this car to run last year when I had this problem
I had a similar problem on an 83 Olds. Set the fast idle so it starts good, then it won’t come down when hot. Adjust when hot, then the thing hard starts cold. Think the problem was dirty linkage. Lots of grime built up around the carb. Never really got it good then it got smashed parked in front of my house.
hey i like the videos very helpfull i have a quadrajet on a 77 deville it ran pretty good but bogged when i hit the gas so i rebuilt it put the new accelerator pump in to fix my bog now the car smokes like hell or it idles way to high the idle screws are backed all the way off and the mixture screws do nothing ill let the car run and i can turn the mixture screws in and out several turns and nothing changes and when i shut the car off it wont die i have to pump the gas or hold the choke closed to get the car to stop any ideas on what i can do other than buy a holly
I have a problem with my Q-jet with the float bowel emptying overnight and it's definitely not the well plugs. I rebult it and it runs great but while i had it apart and the base off I filled the bowl with gas and let it set for two hours and the plugs were bone dry. I also put a check valve in the line about 5 inches from the inlet. I have to crank stop and pump over and over before it finally start. I am not pumping while its turning over. Any ideas?
My Quadrajet will not run if I open the choke up all the way. Engine is Warm/hot at regular operating temp and it will stall out if I kick off the choke. Where should I be looking fir an issue? Idle mixture? My timing is correct I checked recently. I’ve got the burning eyes situation lol
hey man my 750 carb on 454cid is running rich, when i adjust air/fuel mixter screws I go clockwise all the way in and then my RPMs go up , what does that mean?
I had a new rebuilt quadrajet installed in my 84 chev van on a 305 engine. I can get it to start and it will idle very smooth. But as soon as I step on the gas pedal, it sounds like the carb is sucking in more air than fuel and therefore it stalls out. I do not notice and exhaust smoke of any color at all. The van has had pretty much all of the vacuum lines replaced, the fuel pump and the fuel filter are new as well. Any help would be appreciated.
Invert charcoal canister in vinegar 2" deep , air hose it then wd40 straw , air blast it clean improve performace considerably as troublshooter wipe can for for stamped pvc, gas, carb correct hoses twist tie 1/123 2nd row2/123 or tape now only 42 off too rich compare to gross polluter bogus scam!!
Could you shine some light on a choke controlled by the truck? My quadrajet has a single wire going to the choke. The choke light is always on in the dash. The choke blade stays shut no matter the temp. of the engine. Thanks Tyler.
Those have a fairly complex arrangement to supply power to the choke. There's power from the fusebox to choke relay, then power out to a special 2 or 3-pole oil pressure switch that does not permit current to flow to the choke element unless there is oil pressure. That is so there is no possibility of the choke opening prematurely. On a small-block chevy either the oil sender behind the distributor has a 3-wire connector, or more likely the one there has a single wire and there is an additional oil pressure switch located above the oil filter for the choke operation. Check your oil pressure switches to ensure there's not an extra wire that should be connected, and also the wiring to the choke itself. Sometimes also the choke element simply fails, so take a voltage reading at the choke with the engine running.
Thanks! I did a lil more reading and found that the double wire oil pressure sending unit controls the choke as well. Also many say it acts like a dummy light for oil pressure as well. Thanks again Tyler.
I've been stuck at an rv park for two months in Texas and I've changed pretty much every external engine part there is like egr, vacuum lines, vacuum solenoids, oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, etc. etc. well after seeing this I guess I have to rebuild the carberater cause when i turn the ignition off because it's not idling down when its warmed up it shpots fuel out of the choke and before I replaced those parts it would backfire out of the carb. this happened outta the blue it always ran great but one day I just started tuning rich and backfiring when i turn the ignition off. well guess I'm spending another month in this Rv park. oh I have a 1989 chevy 454 7.4L Rochester 4BL. well at least I know what has to be done thanks. I'll be watching the other videos.
Chris Romanos look into www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJew4U-V7l8Aazvck2-QkO4k0Bxq6Oo8mgIjFZ_dqzxuVt2p2B7etgTsaAl89EALw_wcB
Tyler, it appears my float needle is seated when my float is all the way down. When I press on the back of the float, just over the float needle, there is no distance for the float arm to go down. The float will raise but only if the pin moves up that I don’t believe will happen when the top of the carburetor is bolted down. The car was running rich before pulling carb off so no change with the float needle. Am I not setting the float properly?
The needle will not always raise by the float and hanger wire. What is important is that the float, when set correctly, keeps the needle seated when the float is at it's highest(float bowl is full) point. You make that adjustment by assembling the needle into position on the tail of the float assembly with it's hanger wire. You do have that that, right? You then drop the float, float pin and needle into position on the carb. You LIGHTLY push the end of the float where the needle hangs downward just enough to seat the needle. At that point, with the needle lightly seated, you measure your distance between the top edge of the float and the adjacent top top edge of the bowl casting. Adjustment of the float is obtained by carefully bending the float arm at the correct place. Each carb has a specified float height. If you can't find the info easily then it would be worth it to buy a kit to gain access to the spec sheet that is always included inside which also has plenty of diagrams. Always use the carb number when buying a kit. Good luck!
I have a Rochester on my 1969 Chevy C-20 with a 350. The truck is still mostly all original, air pump and all! Sometimes when I drive it aggressive on the freeway I smell gas and it dies when I get onto a city road right away. Who makes a good and complete rebuild kit?
+WhoSaidTyler my Quadrajet upper gasket is always soaked with gas. I just had it tuned up by a shitty mechanic and I had to readjust the choke and such. What could be causing the upper gas leak?
WhoSaidTyler, great video. Anyway, I thought I'd ask you since you know a lot about these Rochesters. I recently had my Dualjet rebuilt and while it runs okay, gas mileage is down the toilet. My 77 Delta was never that great on gas to begin with, but after the rebuild by a so-called "professional", fuel economy is even worse. The engine is a 4.3L 260. Timing is currently 22 degrees BTDC. I replaced spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Plug gap is .055. I am thinking it's way too rich. The exhaust is very strong smelling and my plugs got fouled. I set the mixture screws at 1.5 turns out which is on the lean side, I believe. I am suspecting the guy who worked on it put bigger jets or smaller rods in it. Vacuum reading is 23 inches. I also replaces fuel pump and filter. Any idea what can be causing my problem? Would you know the factory size jets and rods? Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
Hey Vince, nice last name ;-) It sounds like you have the tuneup bases covered. 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture is rich, not lean. The further out you turn the screws, the more air it admits to the mixture. First, have you made sure the choke is opening? That's the usual hot air choke, sometimes they can have a breach in the line and disable it. Past that, I think you need to take it apart yourself and see what's going on. That's a very simple carb, even more so than a Qjet. My hand slap admonishment to everyone is that if you own a older car, you should learn to work on an older car, lol. When you take the top off, do so slowly and look for a couple common errors: The first is, in the center of the carb you have the power piston. If the retainer is loose and it pops up, it stays popped up because there is no longer a vacuum signal to the underside of it. Once you look at it, you'll understand the theory. If that happens, the carb is running in full enrichment mode at all times, just like what you describe. If I find the plastic retainer is loose, I reseat it lightly and then take a small flat screwdriver and a hammer and carefully peen over some metal to keep it in place. The second thing that can happen is that the airhorn gasket has been installed around the power piston incorrectly so that it has hung up the PP in the up position. Again, it's another look at it and it'll make sense how it goes deal. The power piston has to move up and down freely, bottom line. Past that, the float may be out of adjustment, or the needle and seat loose. Does it do anything weird when you slow down sharply, like load up and try to stall momentarily? Again, I think you'll be much better off being the technician from here onward. If you frig it up, take it back off and redo it until it runs fine. That's how you learn. Let me know how you make out with this.
Hey Tyler, thanks for the wealth of knowledge you shared. I was right, you do know a lot about these carbs! Well, Williams is a fairly common last name...Yes, the choke is operating correctly. It was staying on fast idle too long after a cold start, but I think I remedied that. As for the idle mixture screws, it appears I was right the first time in regards to the turning out. I thought I was wrong and second-guessed myself and decided to turn them in, thinking that was lean. The way I have it now is too rich, at 1.5 turns out. Do you know a good starting point, as in the number of turns out to start turning in? I tried the lean drop method and did not hear it as I was turning them in. It runs fine, no hesitation or loading up and stalling momentarily. I also have a hard starting problem when hot. If I drive it and let it sit an hour or so and try to restart it, it cranks a long time, but eventually fires up. I tried a heat shield, but to no avail. I even tried sealing the bottom plugs and that did not work. It seems like heat is the culprit because the longer I let it sit, the easier it is to start. Yes, I rebuilt it once and still couldn't get it to run right, so I admit I caved in and took it somewhere..LOL! I am willing to presume that all internal parts this guy replaced are okay in terms of function and structure, but it's worth a look. Those are all possibilities that you mentioned with the PP, float, needle, and seat. I'll keep you posted. And thanks again!
i recently rebuilt my carb i got the kit for my quadrajet 17055463 and it did not have my quad number so i could not find the float level spec so i replaced and bent the float a little lower about 1/4 of a inch and it fixed the flooding problem but it came back and i decoded it to be a 76-79 pontiac quad i have on my olds 307 motor is the carb to big or do u happen to know the float spec i cant find it on the internet im stumped also there is 2 tubes on the back of the carb one for the hot air choke do u know what the other is for
That's actually a late 1975 Olds 350 carb. It's calibrated for california emissions, but that isn't a problem since it makes it run a bit leaner on the 350 but ideal on the 307. Your flooding is from somewhere else, not the jetting. Recheck your work all the way from the fuel inlet to the float. Set the float the same as a 17057253 and try that. Use the upper port for the hot air choke and cap the lower port, it's for an emission control part. Good luck!
im working on my 75 olds motor again i set the float to the right spec and it does not flood or flow over but know to turn on the car i have to put some fuel in the carb to get it to turn on with the carb assembled on the engine with i open the throttle i dont get the squirts of gas in to the carb when i push down on the accelerator pump it does nothing but when i take the lid off the carb and press on the accelerator pump it squirts fine so much that it got in one of my eyes so my question is i dont know why it wont squirt gas inthe carb when i pump the gas pedal before i try to turn on tbe car
i also disconnected the triangular linkage from the throttle to the accelerator pump and notice if i pull up on the accelerator pump then pump down i get gas squirting down in to the carb this makes me think it has the wrong accelerator pump or the spring its on is also bad?
What if it runs at fast revs but low revs it runs bad and won't idle and there is the black smoke and it burns your eyes I don't see any gas leaking anywhere is the floats stuck?
My remanufactured carburetor is acting up, I think so. So while I’m driving the car starts to jerk and while at a stop. Also i have to go slow on the gas pedal or it will want to die or sort of die.
My 82 GMC is constantly running rich and always has black soot in the tailpipe, I've tried adjusted the idle mix screws but it seems to not make a difference and turning one of the screws doesn't even seem to change anything.
That illustrates that you have excessive fuel getting in somewhere and richening the mixture. The two main culprits are the choke and the float. The choke must be wide open when the engine is warm. The float can be out of adjustment, stuck, there can be trash in the needle and seat or those two items are just worn out. Sometimes the carb leaks through the well plugs. At the least it needs gone through and everything adjusted per the Rochester service manual.
Thx for vid. Shame tho, at 14:10 you didn't say what to remove to get that portion off. I'm new to this carb and trying myself but now I'm wondering why TF isn't it coming up. I'll search for a complete rebuild vid :/
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Once I got the last two screws under the choke butterfly all I had to do was rubber mallet the underside :/ Still, great video. Thank you
rdillon517 the quadrajet is about the best carb you can get,i my opinion. holleys and edelbrocks are a "favorite" w those who don't understand a quality built carb and/or don't want to understand them cause they're more intricate. The quadrajet is a prescripion carb and the holley and edelbrock are over the counter
Holleys are great for racing, but on the street you can't be a Qjet. A good running Qjet has been known as the poor man's Fuel Injection for decades. Nobody ever said that about a Holley Carb.
@@northcentralohio9400 by that logic, I guess Megasquirt and similar aftermarket fuel injection systems are major surgery if Quadrijets are prescriptions and Holley, Edelbrock and so forth are over-the-counter.
If you'll go to Scotty Kilmer's channel and check out his videos, you'll find that none of them are longer than about 3 minutes. Of course, you are only getting 30% of the required info, but that should suit you better than these videos.
Go watch another channel then. If your problem is simple and requires less information there's plenty of other options. Sometimes the lengthy ones have a piece of information you need that isn't included in other ones ;)
Thank you. My quad stays rich at idle. I appreciate your videos.
Thank you Tyler for your video. I just found your page but will watch them all. Please keep making videos of this interesting lost art
You are explaining things perfectly. Man one thing you know is Quadrajets. Man i never peered into a carb of any kind and that original series you did i totally rebuilt my Rochester Quadrajet on my 1980 TA and i have you to thank for that. By the way ... the part where you talk about ensuring your initial timing is correct before digging into your carburetor - Tyler it couldn't be more correct in my case. I rebuilt my carb thanks to you and i learned a lot and i did a top notch job. But you know what my carb actually internally was in very good shape to start with. Having a car i know nothing about its past - it was still good to know in the end that the carb is good to go. And with your help setup and tuned right. But guess what... a year later i found my best performance gains by digging out the timing light my step dad gave me and realizing that the initial timing was 2.5 degrees retarded than stock specs. I have since adjusted that and my TA really performs much better with more torque etc. I was afraid and didn't understand how all of that timing works with HEI distribuitors etc. So i guess what i am saying is .. i think a lot of us noobies ( Your faithful youtubers) would learn a lot from a ignition timing series perhaps with a certain red car with a mopar v8 in the background of this video that you have been hiding exhaust work from us on :)
Hah ok 1 more drink for me!
Hey man, excellent video! Very much worth watching if you are working on a quadrajet! Thanks!
Thank you, glad to help.
thank you so much for this video been stuck for a few days on this carb issue (flooding) walked me right through it. back to fishing
awesome!
I have an 86 Camaro sport coupe, she’s my first older car I’ve bought planning on getting her in car show condition one day, and she’s running rich I have next to no experience with carbs your video was very informative and helpful gonna see if I can’t figure it out with the knowledge you’ve provided
Go for it!
yo Tyler, Great video, I'm a life long hotrodder, started out a chevy guy now own two fords, Quadrajets are very well thought out carbs, and designed for max fuel economy, low end TQ yet have monster sized secondaries for passing- merging. My financially challenged friend has a q-jet barley run flooding, stuck needle, your long winded explanations are a big help refreshing my memory, before I try to help this guy again, PS I'm a surfer from Santa Cruz and enjoy hearing a real American accent un-rushed by todays rat race.
Nirwaiavani first hawaii prince landed in santa cruz 1885 surf city usa. rodents are top of gregarious gemini not bottum of darwin food chain lack of vision or outrite deception lie many are good beings. Just as in people , same amount of good as bad. Friendly trap and release, Alive. Smog guy charge 250 unplug hose to cheat pass smog but screwed up air fuel mixture. Chargeing $200 again this biennial. Should of just rebuilt or swap out for $500. 😁4x4 350 5.7L 80 classic K5 Chevy Blazer should parade historical.
I have an '86 Chevy Silverado that I've had for bout 15 yrs. i recently bought a period correct carb(m4med),had it rebuilt and installed from an old school mechanic in my area. since then,even in 30 degree weather,during cold starts,i give it half a pump and it starts right up...just like a hot start...a wonderful thing.
Sweet!
WhoSaidTyler I try to watch your videos when I have the chance(videos i might have missed and/or new videos i haven't seen yet.) You do a good job w explainin these carbs,issues people have w them,etc...Keep up the good job on the good info!
I got a question to ponder your mind Tyler. I got one that runs great carb. first start is good untell the motor gets hot,once hot you shut off the truck and the carb. sits there and drips fuel down the intake,Hot it runs terrible cold the carb. runs great! Any idea?
I had my Quadrajet overhauled I had to open it back up and I found that they remove the spring that holds the needle and seat to the float arm do you feel that this will cause a problem
thanks for the help your videos help out a lot it turned out to be whoever rebuilt it before didnt set the float height correct got it from the junkyard
Awesome. I always feel that people that watch these videos will turn out to be the best people to work on their own carbs.
I junked the edelbrock that was on my monte and bought the original quadrejet back on electronic quad and the electronic distriibuter back in what a big difference love the quadrejet s always have .now I'm having a he'll of a time trying to find a original throttle and decent cable bracket for it now has the 2 cables on it and the round hole for the power brakes I need it so my kick down cable adjust rite
I have a1976 f250 and was to upgrade to a quadrajet. what to do thanksmotormike
Great video!! I 'm wondering if color of exhaust residue can be helpfully on whether it's running lean or rich like a whitish compared to a blackish color! they say a medium grey is great for highway driving and a dark grey is city driving?? what do you think???
Would you advise having a fuel pressure regulator ?
Great Info!
Awesome video thanks!!!👍👍👍👍👍
I have a quadrajet #7042202 and I can't find a rebuild kit for. What would you recommend i do?
Thanks man this helped me out.
Glad I could help
Hey hey bud gots a few questions for you.... first of all great vids!!!! second, I'm a fan of qjets but my old man don't take to kind to them!!!!
my 4 barrel runs very rich but i didn't know.much about setting the air fuel mixture until recently... Also, the choke on it doesnt work so i hooked it up to a manual choke which isnt too effective.... it's a vacuum operated deal!!! is it fixable? is it worth rebuilding the carb? It's on my 1980 k10. with the ls9 350..... thanks in advance if you see this. I'm getting tired of dealing with it lol.... also it runs so crappy I i hooked the secondaries up to the throttle so it opens with the throttle
Brian Davis www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJew4U-V7l8Aazvck2-QkO4k0Bxq6Oo8mgIjFZ_dqzxuVt2p2B7etgTsaAl89EALw_wcB
When you said that a high performance engine could actually suck the float chamber dry of gas, I would imagine that could be an intermittent hesitation situation.
the issue im having on my 1980 corvette is that the choke is not opening enough on a cold start and because of that it runs very rich, smoking straight gas while trying to stall but not stalling, after letting it idle for a few seconds the choke thermostat kicks in as the engine warms up and the car then runs smooth on high idle, after letting it idle for a few more seconds and depressing the gas pedal and letting go the car will low idle smoothly and run smooth the rest of the way until letting the car cool down over night, im confused as to what is supposed to open the choke as soon as the engine starts but when is not hot enough for the choke thermostat to take over control and smooth the engine out?
Skip what the haters say. You explain things for everyone to understand!! Not just motor heads!
Hello, not sure how to reach you other than here. My 82 GMC carb backfires when the weather is warmer and the truck drives for about 10 miles. Sometimes its bad some time it just once. and sometimes not at all. Is this my carb.? The motor is a 350 Goodwrench aftermarket install. No cats. Any ideas?
Any ideas??? Drivers side primary is discharging fuel at idle. Idle mixture screw has to be closed all the way off on that side. The other side is fine and it's mixture screw adjusts fine.???
im haveing a flooding problem did a rebuild and still haveing the same issue's checked all the things u covered in your video on fixing a flooding carb it dosent turn off on me but is leaking gas on to the intake on the drivers side and runs real rich lot of carbon on tail the tail pipe hopeing your can help me out with some of knowledge i also noticed its missing the black cup inside the carb and the black plastic cover that goes over the float check the black nitrle float in water was fine but got a brass one just in case havent installed yet i was wondering sence the cover for the float is missing could it be that it needs it
It's needs to have all of those pieces, but also make sure you install a NEW float, new seat, new needle, make sure the needle is suspended correctly by the little wire, make sure the seat has the metal washer under it and lastly check and double check the float height. Good Luck.
I have a question for this carburetor if is hard to start in the summer when it starts the rpm stay up even when the engine is warmed up...I don't what it is but I got this car to run last year when I had this problem
I had a similar problem on an 83 Olds. Set the fast idle so it starts good, then it won’t come down when hot. Adjust when hot, then the thing hard starts cold. Think the problem was dirty linkage. Lots of grime built up around the carb. Never really got it good then it got smashed parked in front of my house.
hey i like the videos very helpfull i have a quadrajet on a 77 deville it ran pretty good but bogged when i hit the gas so i rebuilt it put the new accelerator pump in to fix my bog now the car smokes like hell or it idles way to high the idle screws are backed all the way off and the mixture screws do nothing ill let the car run and i can turn the mixture screws in and out several turns and nothing changes and when i shut the car off it wont die i have to pump the gas or hold the choke closed to get the car to stop any ideas on what i can do other than buy a holly
Check your choke linkage sounds like its stuck open
I have a problem with my Q-jet with the float bowel emptying overnight and it's definitely not the well plugs. I rebult it and it runs great but while i had it apart and the base off I filled the bowl with gas and let it set for two hours and the plugs were bone dry. I also put a check valve in the line about 5 inches from the inlet. I have to crank stop and pump over and over before it finally start. I am not pumping while its turning over. Any ideas?
Did you fix it what was wrong
My Quadrajet will not run if I open the choke up all the way. Engine is Warm/hot at regular operating temp and it will stall out if I kick off the choke. Where should I be looking fir an issue? Idle mixture? My timing is correct I checked recently. I’ve got the burning eyes situation lol
hey man my 750 carb on 454cid is running rich, when i adjust air/fuel mixter screws I go clockwise all the way in and then my RPMs go up , what does that mean?
Pete Kataneksza rich
do youbrebuild them for people
Would an after market pressure regulator work on over flooding?
and how much easier and faster , he might have mentioned choke influenced by differing themostat H20.
I had a new rebuilt quadrajet installed in my 84 chev van on a 305 engine. I can get it to start and it will idle very smooth. But as soon as I step on the gas pedal, it sounds like the carb is sucking in more air than fuel and therefore it stalls out. I do not notice and exhaust smoke of any color at all. The van has had pretty much all of the vacuum lines replaced, the fuel pump and the fuel filter are new as well. Any help would be appreciated.
Invert charcoal canister in vinegar 2" deep , air hose it then wd40 straw , air blast it clean improve performace considerably as troublshooter wipe can for for stamped pvc, gas, carb correct hoses twist tie 1/123 2nd row2/123 or tape now only 42 off too rich compare to gross polluter bogus scam!!
Could you shine some light on a choke controlled by the truck? My quadrajet has a single wire going to the choke. The choke light is always on in the dash. The choke blade stays shut no matter the temp. of the engine. Thanks Tyler.
Those have a fairly complex arrangement to supply power to the choke. There's power from the fusebox to choke relay, then power out to a special 2 or 3-pole oil pressure switch that does not permit current to flow to the choke element unless there is oil pressure. That is so there is no possibility of the choke opening prematurely. On a small-block chevy either the oil sender behind the distributor has a 3-wire connector, or more likely the one there has a single wire and there is an additional oil pressure switch located above the oil filter for the choke operation.
Check your oil pressure switches to ensure there's not an extra wire that should be connected, and also the wiring to the choke itself. Sometimes also the choke element simply fails, so take a voltage reading at the choke with the engine running.
Thanks! I did a lil more reading and found that the double wire oil pressure sending unit controls the choke as well. Also many say it acts like a dummy light for oil pressure as well. Thanks again Tyler.
Chris
Anytime
I've been stuck at an rv park for two months in Texas and I've changed pretty much every external engine part there is like egr, vacuum lines, vacuum solenoids, oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, etc. etc. well after seeing this I guess I have to rebuild the carberater cause when i turn the ignition off because it's not idling down when its warmed up it shpots fuel out of the choke and before I replaced those parts it would backfire out of the carb. this happened outta the blue it always ran great but one day I just started tuning rich and backfiring when i turn the ignition off. well guess I'm spending another month in this Rv park. oh I have a 1989 chevy 454 7.4L Rochester 4BL. well at least I know what has to be done thanks. I'll be watching the other videos.
Chris Romanos look into www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJew4U-V7l8Aazvck2-QkO4k0Bxq6Oo8mgIjFZ_dqzxuVt2p2B7etgTsaAl89EALw_wcB
Any solution ?
Tyler, it appears my float needle is seated when my float is all the way down. When I press on the back of the float, just over the float needle, there is no distance for the float arm to go down. The float will raise but only if the pin moves up that I don’t believe will happen when the top of the carburetor is bolted down. The car was running rich before pulling carb off so no change with the float needle. Am I not setting the float properly?
The needle will not always raise by the float and hanger wire. What is important is that the float, when set correctly, keeps the needle seated when the float is at it's highest(float bowl is full) point. You make that adjustment by assembling the needle into position on the tail of the float assembly with it's hanger wire. You do have that that, right? You then drop the float, float pin and needle into position on the carb. You LIGHTLY push the end of the float where the needle hangs downward just enough to seat the needle. At that point, with the needle lightly seated, you measure your distance between the top edge of the float and the adjacent top top edge of the bowl casting. Adjustment of the float is obtained by carefully bending the float arm at the correct place. Each carb has a specified float height. If you can't find the info easily then it would be worth it to buy a kit to gain access to the spec sheet that is always included inside which also has plenty of diagrams. Always use the carb number when buying a kit. Good luck!
Is a 4 barrel eldbrock carb better on gas then a 2 barrel carb?
narcisse Cardinal depends on tuning and how hard you drive each.
I have a Rochester on my 1969 Chevy C-20 with a 350. The truck is still mostly all original, air pump and all!
Sometimes when I drive it aggressive on the freeway I smell gas and it dies when I get onto a city road right away. Who makes a good and complete rebuild kit?
707SonomaComa www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5arMBRDzARIsAAqmJew4U-V7l8Aazvck2-QkO4k0Bxq6Oo8mgIjFZ_dqzxuVt2p2B7etgTsaAl89EALw_wcB
+WhoSaidTyler my Quadrajet upper gasket is always soaked with gas. I just had it tuned up by a shitty mechanic and I had to readjust the choke and such. What could be causing the upper gas leak?
Rooster 2000 this is usually caused by high fuel pressure overcoming the needle and seat. A fuel pressure regulator should fix the issue.
Dadgum good carb! Just misunderstood by a lot !!
***** I agree Lon.
muito bom
WhoSaidTyler, great video. Anyway, I thought I'd ask you since you know a lot about these Rochesters. I recently had my Dualjet rebuilt and while it runs okay, gas mileage is down the toilet. My 77 Delta was never that great on gas to begin with, but after the rebuild by a so-called "professional", fuel economy is even worse. The engine is a 4.3L 260. Timing is currently 22 degrees BTDC. I replaced spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Plug gap is .055. I am thinking it's way too rich. The exhaust is very strong smelling and my plugs got fouled. I set the mixture screws at 1.5 turns out which is on the lean side, I believe. I am suspecting the guy who worked on it put bigger jets or smaller rods in it. Vacuum reading is 23 inches. I also replaces fuel pump and filter. Any idea what can be causing my problem? Would you know the factory size jets and rods? Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
Hey Vince, nice last name ;-)
It sounds like you have the tuneup bases covered. 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture is rich, not lean. The further out you turn the screws, the more air it admits to the mixture.
First, have you made sure the choke is opening? That's the usual hot air choke, sometimes they can have a breach in the line and disable it.
Past that, I think you need to take it apart yourself and see what's going on. That's a very simple carb, even more so than a Qjet. My hand slap admonishment to everyone is that if you own a older car, you should learn to work on an older car, lol.
When you take the top off, do so slowly and look for a couple common errors:
The first is, in the center of the carb you have the power piston. If the retainer is loose and it pops up, it stays popped up because there is no longer a vacuum signal to the underside of it. Once you look at it, you'll understand the theory. If that happens, the carb is running in full enrichment mode at all times, just like what you describe. If I find the plastic retainer is loose, I reseat it lightly and then take a small flat screwdriver and a hammer and carefully peen over some metal to keep it in place.
The second thing that can happen is that the airhorn gasket has been installed around the power piston incorrectly so that it has hung up the PP in the up position. Again, it's another look at it and it'll make sense how it goes deal. The power piston has to move up and down freely, bottom line.
Past that, the float may be out of adjustment, or the needle and seat loose. Does it do anything weird when you slow down sharply, like load up and try to stall momentarily?
Again, I think you'll be much better off being the technician from here onward. If you frig it up, take it back off and redo it until it runs fine. That's how you learn. Let me know how you make out with this.
Hey Tyler, thanks for the wealth of knowledge you shared. I was right, you do know a lot about these carbs! Well, Williams is a fairly common last name...Yes, the choke is operating correctly. It was staying on fast idle too long after a cold start, but I think I remedied that.
As for the idle mixture screws, it appears I was right the first time in regards to the turning out. I thought I was wrong and second-guessed myself and decided to turn them in, thinking that was lean. The way I have it now is too rich, at 1.5 turns out. Do you know a good starting point, as in the number of turns out to start turning in? I tried the lean drop method and did not hear it as I was turning them in.
It runs fine, no hesitation or loading up and stalling momentarily. I also have a hard starting problem when hot. If I drive it and let it sit an hour or so and try to restart it, it cranks a long time, but eventually fires up. I tried a heat shield, but to no avail. I even tried sealing the bottom plugs and that did not work. It seems like heat is the culprit because the longer I let it sit, the easier it is to start. Yes, I rebuilt it once and still couldn't get it to run right, so I admit I caved in and took it somewhere..LOL!
I am willing to presume that all internal parts this guy replaced are okay in terms of function and structure, but it's worth a look. Those are all possibilities that you mentioned with the PP, float, needle, and seat. I'll keep you posted. And thanks again!
I
You know your quadrojets ;)
What's happening when it's blowing gas up in air out of carb? Thanks for the video
internal engine
If the fuel filter in the feed line is backwards will that cause it to flood too?
No.
i recently rebuilt my carb i got the kit for my quadrajet 17055463 and it did not have my quad number so i could not find the float level spec so i replaced and bent the float a little lower about 1/4 of a inch and it fixed the flooding problem but it came back and i decoded it to be a 76-79 pontiac quad i have on my olds 307 motor is the carb to big or do u happen to know the float spec i cant find it on the internet im stumped also there is 2 tubes on the back of the carb one for the hot air choke do u know what the other is for
That's actually a late 1975 Olds 350 carb. It's calibrated for california emissions, but that isn't a problem since it makes it run a bit leaner on the 350 but ideal on the 307. Your flooding is from somewhere else, not the jetting. Recheck your work all the way from the fuel inlet to the float. Set the float the same as a 17057253 and try that. Use the upper port for the hot air choke and cap the lower port, it's for an emission control part. Good luck!
im working on my 75 olds motor again i set the float to the right spec and it does not flood or flow over but know to turn on the car i have to put some fuel in the carb to get it to turn on with the carb assembled on the engine with i open the throttle i dont get the squirts of gas in to the carb when i push down on the accelerator pump it does nothing but when i take the lid off the carb and press on the accelerator pump it squirts fine so much that it got in one of my eyes so my question is i dont know why it wont squirt gas inthe carb when i pump the gas pedal before i try to turn on tbe car
i also disconnected the triangular linkage from the throttle to the accelerator pump and notice if i pull up on the accelerator pump then pump down i get gas squirting down in to the carb this makes me think it has the wrong accelerator pump or the spring its on is also bad?
What if it runs at fast revs but low revs it runs bad and won't idle and there is the black smoke and it burns your eyes I don't see any gas leaking anywhere is the floats stuck?
And it was running fine but i went to start it and it started fine and doesn't run like normal. I checked the choke too it's fine.
My remanufactured carburetor is acting up, I think so. So while I’m driving the car starts to jerk and while at a stop. Also i have to go slow on the gas pedal or it will want to die or sort of die.
My 82 GMC is constantly running rich and always has black soot in the tailpipe, I've tried adjusted the idle mix screws but it seems to not make a difference and turning one of the screws doesn't even seem to change anything.
That illustrates that you have excessive fuel getting in somewhere and richening the mixture. The two main culprits are the choke and the float. The choke must be wide open when the engine is warm. The float can be out of adjustment, stuck, there can be trash in the needle and seat or those two items are just worn out. Sometimes the carb leaks through the well plugs. At the least it needs gone through and everything adjusted per the Rochester service manual.
I have an 1985 Buick Regal 3.8 v6 an it’s burning crazy fuel
My 800cfm gets to much gas flows out of the top
And yes the carb. float is working it's not spuing fuel evey where only when it's hot it drips down the intake.
A_ cause the secondaries to flood out when the engine is running
Thx for vid. Shame tho, at 14:10 you didn't say what to remove to get that portion off. I'm new to this carb and trying myself but now I'm wondering why TF isn't it coming up. I'll search for a complete rebuild vid :/
Which part...the float retainer pin or the accelerator pump arm?
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage
Once I got the last two screws under the choke butterfly all I had to do was rubber mallet the underside :/
Still, great video. Thank you
I'm cracking up right now that's what I do put my mower under the rear of my truck so I can keep it dry
OMG! 6 minutes in still waiting on the “ fix”!
Dude you sound just like Billy ob thorton. Anybody ever tell u that. Dead ringer for Billy bob
best carbs made
Painful.
At the rate your talking ill be a old man by the time your done
Jesus christ you repeat yourself 50 times and talk to much. Just explain the fix
Get to the point less talk
If you don't like it don't watch it pretty simple.
Buy a holly be done with it
rdillon517 the quadrajet is about the best carb you can get,i my opinion. holleys and edelbrocks are a "favorite" w those who don't understand a quality built carb and/or don't want to understand them cause they're more intricate. The quadrajet is a prescripion carb and the holley and edelbrock are over the counter
Holleys are great for racing, but on the street you can't be a Qjet. A good running Qjet has been known as the poor man's Fuel Injection for decades. Nobody ever said that about a Holley Carb.
@@northcentralohio9400 by that logic, I guess Megasquirt and similar aftermarket fuel injection systems are major surgery if Quadrijets are prescriptions and Holley, Edelbrock and so forth are over-the-counter.
just get to it and quit all the extra B.S.
Or I could say F U and turn the video private. Options, options.
I wont be back!
Sure you will.
al fredo no one cares
All your videos are just way too long, cut out all the extra extra crap.
If you'll go to Scotty Kilmer's channel and check out his videos, you'll
find that none of them are longer than about 3 minutes. Of course, you
are only getting 30% of the required info, but that should suit you
better than these videos.
Go watch another channel then. If your problem is simple and requires less information there's plenty of other options.
Sometimes the lengthy ones have a piece of information you need that isn't included in other ones ;)
thelineman16 too much information for you to take in?
waste of time
Same thing I say about a Holley. Hiya!!