How to Make a Scrub Plane From a 5$ Cheap Number Five Foreplane
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2016
- Making a scrub plane or a fore plane is quick and simple and can be done for next to nothing. this is a hand tool that should be in any wood shop ready to prep and surface boards.
with just the geometry of the blade this cheap hand plane can be used for great things. how to do woodworking can be so much easier if you have the correct tool for the job and this it the video to show you how-to.
I want to say a thank you to Black Widow Wood works for giving this to me
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And I will be giving this to Donny Carter at Woodcraftery
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As someone who doesn't have the space or money for power tools, your channel is criminally underrated! I've been putting off making a scrub plane as I don't have a grinder but the large sand paper method is genius. Saved me from butchering my iron with a file haha.
I now go to the big box store and get big belts like 4-6" wide and just cut the belt and lay it out flat. I can usually get 36 or 5 grit.
I've got a nice rough slab I am wanting to flatten for a coffee table and just today took an old spare plane blade, put a radius on it with my slow speed grinder and about 10 minutes on the diamond plates, I dropped it into my #5 and got a real pleasant surprise.....one more go tomorrow and I will have a reference face, it's all going home from there. I'm 75, a lower tier 'intermediate' woodworker who has found hand tool woodworking to be my hobby of choice. I've a friend with a sawmill .....a very nice advantage. -Veteran '66-68
I clicked on this hoping that you would have a grinder-free solution for the cambered blade and you did not disappoint! Thanks!
Glad I could help!
I know Im asking randomly but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Jamie Aryan Instablaster ;)
@Avery Salvador i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Avery Salvador it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
Got an old wooden plane in a box of tools for next to nothing so I thought I would give this a shot. Wow! I had some walnut that I chainsaw milled and thought I would never get flat. Spent hours with the number 5 and still had miles to go. In less than 5minutes I did more work than hours with the other plane. Thanks again and keep the awesomeness coming.
It is a fun tool in the right hands.
Thank you for giving me the courage to make a scrub plane without a bench grinder! You were right - it only takes about 5 minutes shape the blade with sandpaper. Thank you!
I know this is a 7 year old video, apologies for necro posting:
I made this tonight with a Spear and Jackson #5 that was absolutely horrible when it came to a jack plane. It had way to much slop and the chip breaker was abysmal. Replaced it a while ago with a barely used LN 5 1/2 and I've been using the 5 1/2, a wooden fore-plane and a refurbished type 7 Stanley #7 to dimension all of my rough sawn stock. Needless to say it was long hard work taking 7 foot boards down to flat, square, and thickness. My 5 1/2 doesn't have any camber in it because I use it for all my smoothing work too.
I was about to throw out the cruddy 30 dollar indian #5, but remembered this video and decided to take a chance on converting it. It took me about an hour to get a decent camber on the blade with a piece of marble w/ 120 grit sandpaper taped to it. Re-sharpened the new profile on some diamond plates, backed the frog all the way up and tried it out.
It hogs off wood. Just absolutely eats it up. The amount of physical effort I used to have to put into the work has decreased immensely since making the scrub plane.
Scrub going from 90 to 45 degrees to the grain, follow up with the 5 1/2 to remove the groves. Check for flatness and see where I need to remove more material. Repeat until it registers flat to the 5 1/2. Check for twist w/ some winding sticks. Repeat if necessary, then finish off with the #7. It has helped so much with processing lumber, which (for me) has been 80% of my time woodworking. Now I can spend more time focusing on joints instead of fretting about that big pile of wood I have to work through each night.
You are absolutely right when it comes to "Using the right tool for the Job". That Indian #5 was what I could afford when I started and wanted to dip my toes into the hobby. It sucked as a smoothing plane and for the shooting board (something the LN or old Stanley I've used excel at) but it was perfect for this application.
Thanks for the great video.
Just found your channel via your 'nemesis', Rex Krueger (it was the vid of the two of you doing a 'build-off' of a wooden-body plane). I've been away from wood working for FAR too long...and the two of you have rekindled my passion (and need) to go make some chips!
Thanks. The two of us have had a ton of fun together. And more fun to come!
Realize this is a 6 yr. old video but I just wanted to add my thanks for the information.
Converted an extra iron for my Jack to a scrub and the difference it night to day - particularly having done one side of a hickory plank with the ‘jack’ and now the other with the scrub - oh, if only I had known what a scrub could do years ago.
Glad I could help!
Another great one, James. I'm telling you, man; you're videos contain some of the most detailed content on the web and it's always presented in such a clear and natural way. Always a pleasure to watch.
Thank you! that really means a lot. I will try to keep it up!
Detailed? I was kind of disappointed that he skipped over how to stone the camber on the iron. He went through some motions but he obviously forgot to video actually doing it or something.
Great advise!!!
Great video! Thanks!
I learn a lot from your videos. You are always straight to the point.
For some reason, I forgot all about this and were using a smother as a foreplane. Worse than that I was teaching my Son the wrong thing. It was good to re-watch this video, I'll set up my number 5 as a foreplane in the next couple of days and teach the boy correctly this time.
Terrific demonstration, pictorally and verbally.
Man !!!!! The information you've provided is really valuable !!!! Appreciate it !!!!!!!! Will make my own scrub plane, thanks !!!!!!!!
thanks Marco. glad I can help!
Had a cheap old No. 4 plane that I hadn't used for years, then I saw your video & followed your procedure (except for the sandpaper on the floor bit, which was a step too far, so cheated with a grinder). I now have a scrub plane that works like a dream! Thanks, I am now an avid subscriber to your channel.
thanks Roy! that means a lot. don't have too much fun with the new toy. LOL
James, thanks for telling me about this video, it answered all my questions and then some. I have 2 number 4s in just so-so condition and I will make one of them a scrub plane if I am able.
God Bless my friend.
Nice project. Thanks for sharing it...
thanks bill my pleasure!
Its amazing how quick a scrub plane can flatten a piece.
+Jacy so true!
just did a restoration following this . Thanks James for sharing.
Sweet. I still use that plane all the time.
Just converted a #4 iron using my diamond plates (for a modern #4 plastic handles, feels weird, next project I guess). I guess the really course sand paper helps, it took me quite a bit longer, good work out though. I took it to a piece of wood and it really rips through it, although it nearly feels like I'm molesting the wood. But the waves it leaves in the wood are quite cool.
Very instructive anf fun. It is ideal for any plane lost somewhere. thanks for sharing
So true! thanks!
I do the hand tool thing for wood working, but for metal I like power tools. It just makes more sense to me. They've had one form or another of bench grinder for a long time now.
just shows, knowledge is everything. not knowing anything about hand planes, I would have never known how to or what to do.this was great information, I am finding out so much about hand tools. Thank you for your videos
thanks! that means a lot. one of the best compliments I could receive.
Nice, thanks for sharing!!
+Humus Workshop Thanks. Glad you liked it.
great job and i think i will try to build one myself
Sweet! looking forward to seeing what you put together.
Interesting as always! your sanding carpet always make me smile :P
LOL I like that sanding carpet. got to remember that one!
What timing. I was just looking around the web for ways to camber an iron for a #5 plane, and your video appears at the same time. The cosmic planets must be aligned. Thanks for the great videos.
I love it when that happens! Glad I could be of service!
Great plane. Good grinding plate. Like!
+Аleksey Bek thanks.
Cheers James for another great video. I've come into several old hand tools from passed family members and after watching several of your videos I will be cleaning them up and putting them to use. Thanks for the inspiration!
thanks Benny. that is about the best encouragement I could get. have fun with the toys
Wood By Wright - Thanks James, will do! I got some good ideas from your plane restoration videos as well so I'll be putting your tips to good use. All the best mate, keep up the good work!
I have done the same with a wooden jack plane. It had a fairly wide mouth to start with so I just needed to camber the iron. I did use a power grinder for that rather than the floor though.
I also took the corners off the cap iron (chip breaker) so that I can have it closer to the edge. Best plane by far for fast stock removal. I can take 1/2” off the edge of a board in a dozen passes or knock the high spots off the face just as quickly. My biggest problem is in not getting too carried away and taking too much off.
Great demystifying of the subject of foreplanes. I have a restored #5 Stanley that I do not want to relegate to the roughing task of foreplaning. So I believe I will keep an eye out for a cheap one that I can use for the purpose.
Just take a spare blade and put a radius on it....I just did that and did not modify my #5 at all......I'll keep the scrub plane blade and breaker on the tool wall and just swap them out when the occasion merits. Mind you...it would go in the #4 or the #6 just as well. I gotta say, it made the job of flattening and removing a good bit of wind a MUCH easier job. -Veteran '66-68
Very cool how you changed the plane for a different use I can see why a fore plane can be addictive when you go from rough to where you start to see the nice wood being covered. Also wanted to let you know I received my mallet and marking gauge in the mail and they are so nice I can't wait to use them. Thank you so much and keep up the great work
+Thom spillane thanks. That means alot.
Looking good! Learned a lot from your sharpening process! Thanks brotha!
Thank you ! I am trying to add that in to more videos rather then just assuming the sharpening.
Yea for sure! That's always helpful to watch
good work!
thanks!
thanks for doing this...for a newbie like me the sensible approach (economical solution) is the best until i get my skills up.
Thanks! When I started this hand tool shop I started with $12. even today I try not to spend more then $10 on a plane or tool if possible. It usually costs me in time but I am ok with that trade.
Wood By Wright Indeed!
Excellent... Another great video and I've learnt something new so thank you... I'll defiantly be getting a scrub plane or a cheap fore plane and converting it like you've just done...
Cheers...
+Adam Quincey sweet! Looking forward to seeing it!
+Adam Quincey sweet! Looking forward to seeing it!
Think about the space required for an additional machine, a jointer, and the dust removal and all that is involved and you realize just how expensive power tools are. For occasional needs, a hand tool is much more cost effective than buying all the space, power, etc. needs to possess a piece of machinery, yet that's only one piece. Multiply that by the many pieces of machinery needed to build furniture.
nice job James! I plan to do the same with one of the planes Darryl Jones gave me.
Sweet! looking forward to seeing it!
Great that you used sandpaper to shape the curve. No goggles required!
When I was younger I did not understand the use of hand tools vs power tools. But with age I get the just of it now. I still do not have any planes, but hope to change that soon. Thanks for the insight on hand planes. Well done James
+Robert Evans I so know what you are saying. I was doing woodworking for 20 years before I ever touched a hand plane.
Wow now you can't put them down.....lol
that is about right!
School time! Thanks James.
LOL thanks!
Wood By Wright btw.. been watching on the shop tv alot lately so if no comment.. that why. Im always here! like a shop fly
Oh thanks. now I have another fly in the shop! and this one is ugly! LOL thanks!
Hey James, thanks for the video. I thought I would share an alternative I have been using to the rag wrapped around the screwdriver. Rather than the screwdriver, I take a disposable chopstick and sharpen the wide flat end to a screwdriver shape and sharpen the pointy end in a pencil sharpener. I feel like it is a little less cumbersome and less likely to damage the paint and you can tweak the shape to the area you are trying to clean.
thanks kevin.
Pretty good info, Paul Sellers has a similar video that says pretty much the same thing with a bit more detail. I use vinegar with steel wool soaked in a jar (creates rust) to create a "rapid weathering" solution. It works extremely well and is fun to watch the different woods darken as the rust, tannin, and acid do their magic. Because of that, I would never use vinegar to clean steel without neutralizing the acid afterward. For me, because I'm somewhat obsessive about my tools, I would spend the time and effort to clean up the plane to at least a no rust state.
That first sentence is a precis of PS's channel vs. this one
awesome work, great vid, its always funny to me, when someone says all hand tools no power tools. like the old masters did, while talking into a camera and posting it on the internet lol
LOL yup. high-end smart lights, sound system and $4000 in camera gear is a fantastic contrast
I have converted a jack plane into a scrub plane, and it works well enough, better than this particular plane functioned as a jack plane so I don't regret my efforts. But I have also used a vintage Stanley No. 40 scrub plane and found that the extra 1/2" of width in the iron requires a measurable increase in effort to operate it. Since Stanley No. 40's are averaging above $80 in price on eBay, I'll stick to my modified jack plane for now.
Just followed your instructions and now have a scrub plane. Thank you! Just one thing, though. I don't know where you find garage sales with $5 planes. In NYC, I've never seen any planes!
LOL yup. go out of the city abit. that part of the country is a hot bead for tools. Check out www.HandToolFinder.com there is a map on there of where to find tools.
That was one bodacious piece of sandpaper.
Lol. It is a nice one for this kind of work.
Great video, as all the others you've made over the years (I've watched virtually all of them); I just wish 5$ planes did exist for me to buy...
Where are you at? I actually jut passed up 4 of them yester day. He had 4 planes for $10 total. but there are many places where that is just not possible.
You should meet Roy Underhill?
I have he is a cool guy. I have had the chance to hang out with him twice.
Scrub plane gets no love huh?
"It's only a scrub plane so you don't even need to feed it unless your in a good mood..."
in need of a 1st plane 🎃
there is always a first.
I've got an old plane in rustled, thanks for the video...I am going to restore using the vid
Very informative James as usaul. have u any ideas what we can do for video when I come up next week
+Opa's Workshop not sure. Is there some skill you want to teach or learn.
I've been humming and hawing for a while now about which of my planes I want to turn into a scrub plane. I've got a number 4 and 5 Stanleys, a no. 4 Dronfield, and a no. 5 Spears & Jackson (which is new, but cheap).
I think I'm going to have to go with the Dronfield since it has something wrong with it; I have to put the chip breaker back about 1/4-1/2 an inch for the blade to protrude, and adjust, correctly. It seems like the perfect candidate, but it's always a tough decision to "sacrifice" a plane!
At the moment I'm just using an old wooden block plane as a scrub as it has a large mouth, but I didn't curve the blade on it as I was undecided if it was to become my main scrub plane..
Still, it's a lot of fun using an old block plane, you can really fling them around!
It's also got a metal sole in front of the mouth so I might be able to reduce the size of the mouth in the future if I want to use it as a smoothing plane or something.
I was over on the Paul Sellers site and found he fixed the issue you mention about the chip breaker by just filing the edges of the chip breaker down a bit....I tried that today and did not modify my #5 a bit, just changed out the blades/breaker and went at it. pretty good success, for the effort. -Veteran '66-68
@@rogeranderson8763 Nice one! I eventually took the plunge and turned the Dronfield into a scrub plane. It really was the most logical choice, and worked it out just fine..
HI James, first off Great Work! I love your videos and you just make it all look so fun! I'm disabled and retired so setting up my shop to do wood projects that I can sell to suppliment my income. I have a question. I was watching you sharpen the plane blade and was noticing your diamond plates. Could you tell me what kind they are and where you got them? And about how expensive are they?
thanks steve. Here are the sharpening tools I use and all that info. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening Also I have a video on the sharpening holder and setup I use if you want to see that.
Hey, James. About 6 or 8 years ago, somebody gave me a broken Stanley number 4. I repaired it and decided to convert it into a scrub plane, since I have a LN 4. I botched the job. I honestly thought I had ruined the blade trying to put a camber on it. So I put the plane away and forgot about it. I watched this video last week, and you motivated me to try again. I spent today following the instructions in this video, and it worked perfectly. I have a very nice 3 1/8" radius camber on a razor sharp blade. Thanks for the assist! Literally couldn't have done it without you. As an aside: I set the bevel at 32* to aid in edge retention. Thoughts on that bevel angle?
+Matt Pethybridge thank you. That is the best complement I could receive.
Is it ok to move the frog back pass the sole/throat? The iron seems to be too big, it sticks out too far??
As long as the iron doesn't touch the body. Most of the time when making a scrub plane you have to open up the front of the mouth.
You should never skip the foreplane
Love the video! What grit stones are you using?
I am useing the DMT Dimond plates. that are about 300, 800, and 1,200, then the strop takes it to around 20,000.
Thanks for the video. Can you not get these irons pre-cut?
What is holding your piece of wood down? I would imagine if it was just that dog, it would be moving around a lot more.
I do not know of anyone that sells pre shaped scrub planes but it you called a few of them they may make one up for you. It is held in place by a dog on both ends. One is in the face vice.
A rather strange affliction that all woodworkers seem to possess,,,This shaving of ones arms..
LOL Hand Tool Pattern Bladness.
Great knowledge transfer… Where did you get the giant piece of sandpaper?
I got that at a retool store but you can get some like it at Klingspore.www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BB00006/
Just an FYI: that plane was manufactured by Millers Falls. It's still most likely a "B" line as far as quality goes, but back then the only real skimping was cheaper totes/knobs and slightly less refined castings (not as much grinding and finish work before paint). Still great quality though, especially compared to today's "budget" planes from HD/Lowe's/wherever.
Very true.
I just reshaped one of these with a hand crank grinder. Took a minute...and no power tools!! I hope you can get one of those. You'll save a'lot of money on sandpaper/files. The stones last for years.
I almost got one a couple months ago. Between that and a beam drill. Those are high on my list.
Wood By Wright Cool! Before you buy, check that the shaft/arbor turns without wobble and also check the flanges that hold the grinding wheel. Especially the inner flange thats attached to the arbor. They are a real pain to balance and the old ones are often bent.
Thanks for the 80 grit procedure and about how long it takes. I don't own a power grinder. Just don't feel like spending the money to get one.
By the way, have you ever tried Evaporust? Curious if it would be a lazy way to remove the rust without damaging the paint.
thanks! Evaporrust works perfectly. it is just Crazy expensive when in comparison. but for a lot of people it is worth the expense as you do not have to watch it so much.
Cheers mate for sharing how you guys do scrub work overseas. The iron on this is a lot wider than on traditional European wooden scrub planes (33mm). The iron plane gives a lot more mass to the plane which might be quite taxing when thicknessing. What is your experience with that?
Yep. It's the same here if you buy a specific scrub plane they're usually a lot thinner They allow you to go to a bit deeper but they don't have all the mass behind it. I generally prefer a little bit wider and have everyone myself.
The #6 is called a "foreplane" the #5 or Jackplane so called as it's the jack of all trades and can be used for a scrub plane, a smoother, or a jointer. The #6 is Great at either jointing or as a scrubber, the #6 was more used more by trade type woodworkers, who didn't have lots of space in the tool totes for a full size #7 or 8 jointer or a bunch of other planes, so they would carry a #6 and say #4 to do all their work with. This combination was generally for ruff carpentry work not finishing work, where larger lumber was being processed.
I completely know what you are saying, but there is a lot of debate on that topic and to not start more of that debate here the easiest and less devicive way is to put both the foreplane and scrub plane into the same boat. I pre fer to separate names from numbers and use the names for function and the numbers to talk about the sizes. because you can smooth with a #6 and call it a smoothing plane. and you can before plane with a #4 and call it a four plane. then there is a whole nother camp that refers to a Foreplane only as a wooden body plane between 15" and 22" usually that is only in Europe. Thanks for bringing it up though!
I totally agree with James... the "scrub plane" is really an invention of Stanley and the foreplane originated with the wooden plane that was worn and had a wide mouth, essentially a reuse just exactly what James is doing here. In size (because of use as well as practicality) the size of the wood plane was generally a jack. Stanley referred to the #6 as a short jointer, so no help there for either side of the argument.
Your method is a lot like Mr. Paul Sellers way of doing this... I have learned a ton from all you internet/youtube instructors. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I have a question that should be up your alley... I see people using all sorts of power tools to make a Barley Twist in a leg or any round wood... is there a way to do this by hand tools? Can't find anything on doing so.
Thanks! I love Paul's work I have a slimier look at woodworking to him, and he has been a good influence on my own work. as to your question the traditional method is just to carve it. that sounds intimidating but if broken down into it's parts it is fairly easy. 1. draw a spiril around a round stock by wrapping a paper strip around it. 2.on that line cut in with a saw 1/2 inch or however you want that depth to be. 3 use a standard bench chisel to rough out most of the wast in a "V down to the depth of the cut. 4. use a gouge with the circumference of the curve you want to refine the shape of the V int the round you are looking for. last sand or file it smooth. that sounds like some thing I should do here soon. thanks for the great question and great idea. if you have more questions feel free to ask any time and I can clarify.
Thanks so much! That does sound like the best way of doing 1... I am just afraid making 4 for a bench or table will not look equal to each other...I'll have to give it a try on some scrap wood first... maybe when it cools down in my garage this fall! Keep with with all the great video's...I don't even watch regular TV anymore! :-)
the best way to learn is always to jump in and do it.
I wish these nr5s were more readily available here. I need to go wooden to get a scrub plane. Any pointers on making a wooden fore plane?
LOL here the wooden ones cost an arm and a leg. those are purchased by decorators. it is the same thing with a wooden body take out the iron and camber it. the only issue is most wooden bodies that are around 15" tend to have a 2" wide iron and that is often very wide for a scrub plane. but if you keep it around a 6" radius and just have some of it sticking out rather then the full with it would do the same thing.
what honing stones with the strap thingy are you using?
here is a video on the sharpening station. czcams.com/video/VDqgVUeCDmc/video.html
the diamond plates are DMT Corse, Fine and Extra fine. the strop is horse but you can find those here: www.woodbywright.com/shop/strops
I recently picked an old 2 -inch slick ($2) that was sorely abused and meeds a handle The bevel is is crudely cambered, and I wonder if it was used to clean up rough hewing.
it can be. Some people put a camber on them just out of habit. there use to be a school of thought that put a camber on everything.
The socket is mushroomed and the sides have been beaten are the reasons I suspected either heavy use, or an idiot's touch.
My hope is to taper a dowel for the socket, install a knob, and use it as a blade only plane (I am at heart, a subtractive sculptor). It's made by Essex.
It was my understanding that the fore plain or number 6 was called that because you used it After your jointer and before you went to your number 5 jackplane
There are lots of different myths and things being said about it. But the four plane is the first plane to touch the wood. It's the one that scrubs out all of the material getting it down to rough dimensions.
Well I've been in the construction industry for about 50 years so I understand people on the East Coast use different words than us on the West Coast and I get it that makes sense. I also like listening to Paul sellers because he has different names and words for things that they used in England. As long as the What is trying to teach is learned the exact words aren't that big of a deal. Although I've worked in construction with my hands of very long time it's been less than a year that I've been attempting to use hand tools only and do what would be called finer wood working although I don't currently consider any of my work fine or at this point. As a attempted to do additional research last night all of the information showed a fore plane As being a larger number 6 type plane. I did find a couple sites that stated these planes can have 2 different blades one straight and 1 curved similar to the scrub plane. I don't believe there is right or wrong to this question but personally I think it would be confusing to call a scrub plane also a fore plane, While simultaneously it would make sense to call the plane that is between the jointer and the Jack a fore......
Additionally Reading that the number 6 can come with a straight or curved blade it makes sense why anything with a curved blade could be considered a fore plane. All of this is just semantics But I like intellectual debate and trying to figure things out this additional information I read last night would make sense how the scrub plane could also be called a fore plane thanks for Taking the time to reply I know you're busy have a good day
So true that different people have different names for the same thing. I too have done construction on the West coast the East coast and down south and it always amazes me how many different names there are for the same things. The term foreplane predates the Stanley sizing and so it has nothing to do with the size of the plane though once the Stanley sizing came in the number six was the most common to be used as a foreplane. Later Stanley introduced the scrub plane which before that was merely an old plane where the mouth had whitened out and more camber was added to the blade. Historically speaking before the Stanley numbering method a foreplay was a larger plane somewhere between 18-in and 24-in that had a cambered iron. However over the years it is one of the terms that has come to mean many different things. And some people attribute it to a specific plane or a specific iron setup. On this channel I refer to playing sizes to refer to a specific type of plane and then I use plane names to refer to the job that I will be doing. That seems to clear up a lot of the confusion but there are always problems with people who like to pigeonhole a name and unfortunately historically speaking that really isn't possible due to the broad use of terms in different locations.
Hi James & Merry Christmas. I think you should make the mouth bigger by filing it a bit.
I could but the mouth is big enough to let all the chips through.
Love your videos. I have talked to you about handsaw sharpening. I really don't have the time to invest in restoring them. I have about 5 or 6. If I send them all to you would you be willing to restore. Rip and crosscut one in exchange for the left overs. You choose what ones you want as I am not a collector or brand loyal.
Sounds like a fun idea. send me an email. I am sure I could find someone who could use the other saws.
michiganwoodworker@gmail.com
Nice Vid on a Scrube Plane conversion. Using a former Number 5, is it essential or preferable to enlarge the mouth's Plane to help bigger shavings to go thru ? Regards, Robert,
It depends on the plane you have. if you move the frog back a lot of times you can get away without opening the mouth up but if you find out it's still clogging up then it's worth filing the mouth a bit bigger.
@@WoodByWright Many thanks, very appreciated. Regards,
People who look down on scrub plane are ignorant of its capabilities. Also James, if a tool is worth using then it us worth taking care of it...get the rust out people!
Молодец мужик, без всяких понтов точит нож на рубанок. У наших блогеров обязательно понадобилась бы какая нибудь дибильная тележка для точения от нельсон или веритас стоящая как крыло от боинга. И еще масло дикой архидеи,стоит пузырек как еще одно крыло
А также водные, японские камни без них никуда. И того дешевле купить мебель полностью чем сделать самому потому что надо миллионвложить во всякую дрянь,а потом уже о покупке материала думать,а аж потом уже про мебель.
Alrighty-then! Guess I'm on the look-out for a second #5 to be converted to a scrub/fore plane. My wife thanks you, I'm sure.
LOL my pleasure. the nice thing is it can be a really cheap and junky one.
Thomas Russell ž
Are there irons I could purchase instead or do I have to camber myself?
I do not know of any irons that come pre-cambered.
I love the video in regards to the plane, but where are you that sells a plane with all parts for $5? I'm in Missouri and any hand plane that is all together is $45 min. Thats covered in rust like it came from the titanic. Thrift store and flea markets sell them with the blade missing and broken handles fore $15-$25.
Thrift stores in flea markets are a pretty poor place to buy them. I believe I got this one at estate sale. And you can off and find them at MWTCA meets. Handtoolfinder.com
30 foot long sandpaper?....now, that's just being show-off-ish! Gonna make me a scrub plane, though...Thanks!
Lol. When you got it flaunt it.
Would you prefer the additional blade width and sole length of a no 5 1/2 for this purpose? Im looking to get a dedicated roughing plane and not sure if i should look for no 5 or 5 1/2
no the thinner the better. the actual scrub plane is only 1 1/2" wide any wider than the 5 and you will be running into issues. now if you can get a 5 1/4 that would be perfect in my book, but not worth the time of finding it.
Wood By Wright awesome. Im going to my first MWTC meeting tomorrow so i’ll have a no 5 on my list 😀. Thanks for always replying!
Sweet man! have fun with that!
After 'going through the process' today, I found the shavings are only 1-1.5 wide....Perhaps a gorilla could push a 5 1/2, but this 6'3" 200#er would not be up to it. Making a radius on a spare blade is sure worth the effort though....I did not change the plane body a bit and it all works just fine.
-Veteran '66-68
nice vid. you are pro, following your Tips produce results. but: to make the Planer you need a Shop with 500$ worth of sharpening equipment. so it is a 505$ Planer.
Lol I use with sandpaper and a file how is that $500 worth of tools?
Wood By Wright
What about the waterstones in Minute 8....that turn a blunt 5 $ piece of metal into the planer that cuts like yours? they are 80 $ each? plus the diamond plate to rectify them....
I use to use sandpaper for just that thing. take it up to 1000 grit and you are good to go. I just use them because they are there.
I've been using wd-40 to clean up rusty planes. Does that lead to rust?
No. That's a good one for it. It's not great at stopping rust but it helps.
How flat do we need to get the sole on a scrub? I have a cheap number four, but all-around the mouth it is higher than the rest of the sole. I can feel the difference with my finger as it slopes into the mouth, so it's taking ages to get it flat. Should I just leave it and shape my iron? Also, how about along the side edges? It seems all the really important areas of this plane are high...1/16th on each side and about as much on the front and back of the mouth...thoughts?
Not flat at all. What you have will work perfectly for it.
@@WoodByWright thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
try some baking soda with that vinager 👍👌
+TheMayflowerPilgrim why mix the two? They counteract the base and acid of each?
Wood By Wright extrem cleaning power man! can clean almost anything. I just used baking soda and vinager with a wool pad to clean some old rusty plyers. I have a question on block planes. I just picked up a stanly plane at home depo. was wondering how do I know if it's a 4 or 5 ect...
Wood By Wright I have *never* understood people insisting on mixing the two for cleaning... You just end up scrubbing with a sodium acetate solution... Vinegar is a great acid for cleaning, bicarb is a great gentle abrasive but mixing the two doesn't improve either of them...
Hi James, I have been evaluating converting one of my #4 planes into a scrub plane. Though I have a power planer, I am slowly trying to move towards hand tools as much as possible as I find that way more interesting. I came across your video tutorial and it is really helpful. I have a general question about investing on a slow speed power grinder - who else to go to for advise than someone who is so much dedicated to hand tools!😏. So my question, do you think it is still good to invest on a grinder for tasks like making a scrub plane, honing primary bevel of chisels, blades etc. even though it is not a common day to day thing like regular sharpening? What do you normally do for tasks like these? Looking for your inputs.
If you're going to be doing a lot of restoration then it is worth it. However, if all of your edges are sharp then there's no reason for it. The only reason I would use a grinder is if I'm trying to grind past pitting or if I'm reprofiling an iron which only happens if the original profile was wrong.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for replying. I am working on restoring a plane that seems to have a belly on the blade (maybe someone hammered it!) and thinking of converting a plane to a scrub plane. I felt both types of tasks make grinder a decent investment. Also, what do you feel about honing the primary bevel of a plane once secondary bevel gets too long - again I think this applies to someone who uses a honing guide like I do. It may not apply to free-hand sharpening as you create a slight camber in that case instead of 2 bevels (I may not be right in my understanding there) .I am yet to get past the barrier to switch to free-hand sharpening, which I do intend to do some day :)
I don't mess with the secondary bevel. It just ends up taking more time in the long run. That's just one primary bevel at something around 35° for planes and something around 25° for chisels. Plus or minus 5°. I don't put a camera on any of my irons. I keep them flat across.
Often, a scrub plane needs a more open throat than a Bailey can accomodate by adjusting the frog, so people will file the throat wider ruining it for other uses. Stumpy Nubs has a video showing how to convert one of those cheap Harbor Freight planes into a scrub plane.
correct. Thankfully a lot of the cheaper post war planes have a big enough mouth for it. that is one of the reasons I like to use them. the better planes tend to keep that mouth small. Stumpy nubs does a great video on that. so does Paul sellers, and The Hand Tool School. I really like how Shannon Explains his conversion.
I just attempted for the first time to make a scrub plane. After sharpening and setting as far back as I could it just dug in and stopped. Did I make the radius to tight or do you think I need to file the mouth open some more?
Sounds like you might be taking too big of a bite. Or the wood might be too hard for how far it's extended. If it's softer wood, I might go as much as a 16th of an inch, but in a lot of harder woods, it's only sticking out a 32nd of an inch or so.
@@WoodByWright I must have to much of a radius then. I have it adjusted all the way out. I'll try reradiusing and try again.
@@WoodByWright after reradiusing my blade to a larger radius, I can now adjust it properly to around a 1/16th of an inch. I was still having trouble. Turns out that Pecan is really hard to work with, I tried some Curly Maple, and the scrub plane performed as expected.
Kruger was here,,, oh wait.... lol
LOL!
acrost?
yup. it is easier then alongt!
"I have a piece of sandpaper 1 1/2 feet wide and 30 foot long, but you can use something smaller"
I also buy large belts from the big box store you can get 6" X 64"
Great information; however, the music is really intrusive and makes you very difficult to hear. Like listening to the elevator music while trying to converse on the phone. Thank you for your contributions.
thanks. this video was a while ago before I really tried to work on them. I still have a lot more to learn though LOL
Thats radiused blade not "cambered".
Lol. If you really want to be technical about it, it is both
Do you ever say, "Take that strop" while you are slapping the strop with the iron? So much aggression
LOL only the best for my leather!
I understand your reasonings for not going all the way on a clean up, but a craftsman should always take pride in ALL that he or she does, even the mundane things.
+TheKlickitat very true. But one of the main focuses of my channel is to show people that they don't need to have perfection. That is one of the reasons why I try to leave defects in every project. A true Craftsman knows what profession is but also knows when it is not necessary. Thanks for the great comment.
Like I said I understand why you did what you did. I always stress how important it is to my children to be a craftsman in all that you do, even when taking out the trash. Sweap up and wipe down all messes, straighten the cans up if they are out of wack. Your finished job is your signature.
Carry on. Love your show and will continue to follow your work, this is just a discussion and nothing meant by it.
thanks! I feel the same way. I am in an odd situation as a content creator as my video is the creation and not the actual product I am creating. that is really heard for me as my video work is so poor quality, but I am slowly learning. I agree with you completely. thanks for the great discussion.