How To Replace A Water Pump Impeller Yamaha 90hp Outboard Motor
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2017
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Great job Brother.
I can turn a wrench, just wasn't sure how to replace the impeller.
Now I do!
Thank you.
🇺🇸👍
You can't prove water pump is working with a pressurized supply to the muffs. THAT is exactly why I am looking up 'replacing impeller' videos........ bought used boat, the seller fired it up in his front yard with muffs and pressurized city water supply. Looked great. When I got the boat out on the water 2 weeks later, it overheated, pee stream was weak, just a dribble. Just tore it apart, impeller was in 8 pieces. I do thank you for the thoroughness of your disassembly instructions, got me thru it.
Hi, I bought my boat last year and did nothing to the motor (90 Yamaha) except change the plugs and winterized it. A couple weeks ago someone asked me whe the last time I changed the water pump impeller. I told them I had no idea it needed to be done ( he said every 2 years). Well, I just wanna say thanks for the great video you did. It got me through it 1,2,3.
EXCELLENT Video, and at the end the stream was just like my 90 - hp I thought it wasn't squirting a STRONG Stream but talking to my Yamaha Dealer he tells me this is N O R M A L. Seeing it on a unit that was just REPLACED gives me peace of mind... THANK YOU.
Good job on this video. No BS, just straight to the point, showing exactly what needs to be shown and no useless filler :)
Thank you so much for this video.! I'm about to tackle this job myself for the first time on my 2004 Yamaha 90 2 Stroke. I forgot that I watched this 4 years ago.
New Yamaha user Caribbean- hey thanks much. Your video was detailed and thorough. I believe I can do this myself now
Thanks 4 the vid!
Just changed impeller to my 90hp 2stroke Yamaha using this video ✌️
Thanks for the vid. Was able to get all the tools together for the job. My impeller was a biotch to slide off. WD40 didn't help. Had to set unit on ground and use all my weight to reinstall. Until I used some WATER SOLUABLE PERSONAL LUBE, no kiddin'. Went right on...
Awesome. I've never had to do this in my life. My engine is over 20 years old and it's the only outboard I've ever owned. Recently however my alarm started to go off while on a trip. It still pumped water but at idle was very weak. So I figured I'd attempt this on my own next week.
Thank you, good video. I could see the parts I needed to see. Much appreciated.
Excellent video. Now I think I can do that myself.
If you're not going to change the impeller liner for a new one after installing a new impeller it's an excellent idea to micro polish the old liner with a Dremel tool using the white round polishing plush that comes with it. Dampen the plush in water, apply an overdose of thoothpaste and proceed to micro polish the liner's round interior for some minutes till all the micro scratches has been completely removed from the wall. Add more toothpaste as required. The new impeller vanes will last way more and pump more water than if just going straight for a impeller replacement.
If the drive shaft doesn't match the crankshaft's lower splines when assembling back the lower leg, have someone rotate the flywheel CW while other pushes the lower leg up. The match will be instantly. Check that the water tube is well connected against the water pump grommet. And that's all Folks...
Good video mate, made my impeller replacement a breeze..
Same, I watched this video a couple of days ago and today I replaced my impeller like I knew what I was doing. 😃
“You wanna place this bolt in a safe place.”
Immediately drops it to the ground
All jokes aside great video
thanks you make it look easy.i'm going to try mine what if the lower end doesn't seperate how hard can you hit or is there another tip
what kind of grease do you use for upper shaft and bolts? awesome video! thanks!
excellent video mate. really appreciated
Excellent Video, Thank you!!!
Is it necessary to mark the trim tab for re installation so the boat steers straight?
Nice video, one question, I have alot water coming out from where the speedometer hose is and I have not very strong string at top , what could be wrong ?
Such a good video mate, thankyou. Also decided to do it my thongs as well...happy days and thanks from Australia
I love your videos. Can you tell me which direction the oil seals under the water pump go? Cup up or down?
Nice detailed video.
Great video - what camera are you using? Crystal clear. Great audio as well - saw the wireless lapel mic.
i love watching all your videos from boat restoration to small motor repair.. i just bought my first boat and know nothing about boat motors/boats in general.. i have a 1985 ebko monte carlo with a 1985 Merc 90hp "tower of power" on the boat.. i get poor water return coming from the telltale would this video help me to understand changing an impeller on my motor?
Excellent video. Can you do a video on how to clear the water pickup tube if a piece of impeller were to get sucked up in there. As you described. Also a video on how to inspect water jackets would be great. Hopefully without too much disassebly. I want to check for internal water jacket corrosion and possibly clean if needed. Again great video and i just subscribed 👍🏿
Question, what about the metal housing that goes over the impeller ? You mentioned it is uncommon for it to not stay in the water pump housing... just now I was doing this job on my outbound and the metal housing did the same thing and where it inserts in the water pump housing looks to be worn or damaged from it spinning with the impeller... 😐
Thoughts ?
Your videos are very good.
Nice DIY video. One point to mention was the bolts and you reused them. However, you did not clean or inspect the threads. Also, those bolts have a torque spec. (tight but not too tight may not cut it). The service manual references specs. and the bolt threads and mating threads should be inspected and cleaned. Running dirty bolts and tightening them will snap them if the threads have debris in them (these are soft bolts).
The metal pump cup must be inspected for wear along with the thrust plate. The impeller fins need to the lightly greased along with the inside of the metal cup. That thrust plate needs to be inspected and greased. If the plastic housing shows wear/damage, it will need to be changed.
Loctite 572 is the OEM sealant for the bolt threads....not grease. Since you were not torquing bolts, this may not matter. But LT 572 does the job sealing the threads and minimizing corrosion. The plastic cup bolts do not have a torque spec. However, 11 lbs.-ft is generally used to secure the housing.
If that impeller is changed, the entire water pump kit with the gaskets, O-rings and new water tube seal should be installed.
Installing that unit is more complicated than you described. The shift shaft and water tube must be installed properly and aligned. The upper shaft splines need to be greased properly and grease must not be placed on top of the shaft. Otherwise, it will compress and restrict install and then may hydro lock the shaft in place. If the shift shaft moves, you will be stuck in forward and this is a common issue with improper installation. Then the lower shaft needs to be placed back into neutral gear. You never even noted that the manual requires both the shifter to be placed in neutral before removal and confirm the pin/mark alignment.
You made a job look simple without explaining any potential pitfalls and novice will encounter. Noting the issues that may occur is a good idea since people watching this video will encounter them. Better off knowing the potential obstacles in advance.
Improper install of these impellers will lead to serious engine damage if someone runs their motor and overheats. It takes only seconds for this damage to occur at full throttle.
After installation, you should run it for at least 5-10 minutes at fast idle and inspect the cooling system. A thermographic imager is THE IDEAL TOOL. However, a cheap laser temp. gun may be used to monitor cooling.
This was a great "how it is done" video showing basic steps.
Excellent video on replacing the water pump! I have a 2005 yamaha 90hp 4-stroke, have you replaced timing belts on these motor? Is there a certain number of years recommended before you replace the timing belt? I do see 1,000 hours for belt replacement but not years.
You made it look very easy
Saw a 1989 boat for sale locally with a 275 hp Mercury. What is your opinion of this motor? I hadn't heard of a 2 stroke this big.
I have changed the impeller and used rebuild kit everything looks good the problem is water coming out hot and Steam plz tell me what should I do to fix it
Very helpful. Thanks
Excellent video as always!! Keep the good work... I have done this to my F40, but left it to neutral. After reinstalled the lower unit, the prop is stuck. Doesn't move left or right. What can I do? Thanks
Great video
Got a question if you dont mind. I have an 2000 200 OX66 that doesnt have a trim tab. Do I really need one...It didnt come with one and Im a new owner...thanks
Great video. Thx
I just replaced my 2002 Yamaha 90 trl water pump. While droping the lower unit I realized that it does not have the line behind the shift shaft. Water pickup line? I just bought the boat and missed it not being there. I replaced water pump and reinstalled lower unit ( did not install new line ) and it will not go into gear forward or reverse. Shift shaft out of alignment? Not sure what I did. It ran fine before without that line could that be the issue though. I must of done something during re-assembly.
Is this process the same for a 4 stroke 90 as it is for the 2 stroke?
very helpful!
So this Yamaha outboard has no reverse or neutral gear? I didn't see any mentioning of a shift linkage
You should mark the trim to the housing before removing
What does that mean?
This was a great video! I
aye nice Grom
I like the content a lot, very informative. However my hatred for leaf blowers has been reinforced.
Does the lower unit oil have to be drained prior to removal of the lower unit? Assuming it does...just want to confirm
No.....
sry eric dont mean to jump in
how did you disconnect the gear linkage
what about engines with a shift shaft?
Thanks for the video on the 90 hp Yamaha,looks the same as my 80hp Yamaha.Do you many 80 hp Yamaha engines,I have not seen another one,mmm
I need to replace the housing base on lower unit. I have not idea how to remove that. Mine is corroded.
I'm Having trouble getting the lower unit to slide in to the upper part of the motor, I lubricated the steering linkage and can only get within 3/8" of going together
“Place the bolt somewhere safe so you don’t lose it” ... throws it on ground😂😂😂
Hey, they can't fall off the ground😂
I enjoy the subtle comedy 😆😆
always remember to have a weed eater running in the background
I'm wondering, I have a 2000 Yamaha 115 horse . Does it come apart the same way that 90 did?
Basically yes
Any need to drain the gear oil before tackling this project?
No, that's separate. The transmission can be full of oil and you can still take it off like this and swap the impeller.
I see that Honda Grom... too tall for that bike?
is engine in neutral during this process?
yes
solo quiero darte las gracias
When he says, place the lower unit bolt some where safe, then he drops in on the floor.
Hey Eric god job but 1 thing I notice that you should also put grease on the imp. and also alittle in the houseing as well get alonger life out of it...
stay safe!!!
Is it possible to make the outboard suck more water?
How about for a low-water pick up? So... it's possible, so how?
You forgot to mention when doing an impeller, to inspect impeller bottom plate and impeller housing cup to make sure there's no grooves
I did this on a 115 Yamaha. Now I’m leaking “water” from the water inlet holes. Is that a seal issue or normal
how much is it leaking? a little is not a big deal but...
Thanks for replying, I took it apart it was the driveshaft seal
my control box was buzzing while i was at the lake. i have no idea what was it. came to find out it was over heating due to no water circulation in the engine. i will be doing this job soon.
Same thing happened to me this last weekend. Had no idea what was going on until a buddy pointed out that no water was coming out of the back of the motor.
Guessing you have to drain the gear oil first?
Nope
Trim anode should not be straight. Needs to be angled to allow for prop torque.
You made it look awkward by having it on its side screw a couple bits timber overhanging the bench so the lower unit sits on it and its upright .
next time have that guy turn off the stupid blower. Jesus
My god, it was almost unbearable to watch with that damn lawn noise.
That’s not a trim tab
Important not imporint
Tighten not tighen
Lower unit not low unit