Graham, those tight control arm bushings are the norm. Infact, they are so effective that when tightened in the wrong position they can ruin the ride height of the suspension. The small washers underneath the castle/slotted nuts are NLA so save those!
Thank you, very interesting and useful to know. Bizarre how something as variable was used. I remember on the S-Type and mk10 having something similar but this felt much tighter. I’ll keep hold of the original washers and not worry too much about it. Thank you
Hi Graham, having spent a very long time restoring my S3 E Type I can tell you that one of the best pieces of kit I bought was a set of knee pads from Screwfix (I could feel your pain whilst you were kneeling on that concrete floor). Also having done this restoration on my own when I was removing bolts that go through the bulkhead or bodywork I clamped a pair of mole grips onto the nuts to save the spanner from continually falling off. I enjoy watching your video's and look forward to the next instalment.
Hi, thanks for the recommendation, I’ve got some overalls with built in knee pads that I should use more often! You’re right, I should have used mole grips, don’t know why I didn’t to be honest! Glad you’re enjoying the videos, having restored a S3 you’ve been there! I hope you’re having a great summer enjoying it!
Thanks David, yes it’s a lot of work and not moving forward as fast as I’d like. A second pair of hands is definitely useful. As someone else on here pointed out, I should have used Mole grips. 🙄
When removing nuts that are impossible to reach with a reacharound (giggidy) I just use a bit of electrical tape or masking tape to hold the spanner in place, sometimes theres not enough room to get mole grips in. Then when rebuilding, unless complete originality is required I either put in a rivnut, or a weldnut on a suitable thickness plate depending on how much load that fixing is taking.
Great video. Inherited a 1968 1.5 series etype from my dad, a big jig saw puzzle... do you by chance have a good picture of how the dust shields were attached, I can almost get it from your video, but not quite. thanks, Steve
Graham, those tight control arm bushings are the norm. Infact, they are so effective that when tightened in the wrong position they can ruin the ride height of the suspension. The small washers underneath the castle/slotted nuts are NLA so save those!
Thank you, very interesting and useful to know. Bizarre how something as variable was used. I remember on the S-Type and mk10 having something similar but this felt much tighter. I’ll keep hold of the original washers and not worry too much about it. Thank you
Your thorough descriptions, great camera angles, and well lit shop make for wonderful reference videos. Thanks!
Thank you Mark, appreciate it ☺️
Hi Graham, having spent a very long time restoring my S3 E Type I can tell you that one of the best pieces of kit I bought was a set of knee pads from Screwfix (I could feel your pain whilst you were kneeling on that concrete floor). Also having done this restoration on my own when I was removing bolts that go through the bulkhead or bodywork I clamped a pair of mole grips onto the nuts to save the spanner from continually falling off.
I enjoy watching your video's and look forward to the next instalment.
Hi, thanks for the recommendation, I’ve got some overalls with built in knee pads that I should use more often! You’re right, I should have used mole grips, don’t know why I didn’t to be honest! Glad you’re enjoying the videos, having restored a S3 you’ve been there! I hope you’re having a great summer enjoying it!
Great video, very useful reference piece of work , also shows how much time or money a full resto needs, and two pairs of hands often handy too
Thanks David, yes it’s a lot of work and not moving forward as fast as I’d like. A second pair of hands is definitely useful. As someone else on here pointed out, I should have used Mole grips. 🙄
When removing nuts that are impossible to reach with a reacharound (giggidy) I just use a bit of electrical tape or masking tape to hold the spanner in place, sometimes theres not enough room to get mole grips in.
Then when rebuilding, unless complete originality is required I either put in a rivnut, or a weldnut on a suitable thickness plate depending on how much load that fixing is taking.
Thanks, top tips for when a reacharound 😉 isn’t possible!
Great video.
Inherited a 1968 1.5 series etype from my dad, a big jig saw puzzle...
do you by chance have a good picture of how the dust shields were attached, I can almost get it from your video, but not quite.
thanks, Steve
Thanks Steve, the brake dust shields? Sure I’ll try and get a good picture for you.
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