Love your work mate. Have a 2011 Speedy and hate paying others to work on my vehicles. Your videos are clear concise and filmed well. Has made working on mine infinitely easier. Cheers from Australia.
Should you not have removed the bearings for a thorough cleaning and inspection ? A very clear, step by step and non confusing instructional video this is. Commendable work.
A visual inspection is enough, you can roll the bearings in your fingers. You would notice a problem. Dont really want to remove things unnecessary. Thanks for your kind words👍
You are one of the many under rated people on CZcams. For the level of detail work and effort put, you really had to have an exponentially growing follower group. Anyways, good luck mate.. Keep up the good work
thanks for video very helpful. just done it on my Sprint Gt 1050, basically exact same procedure everything the same torque settings etc, brake caliper in different place that's about the only difference. and having a main centre stand,,
Excellent, well paced, clearly explained video, many thanks! I have this job on my horizon for my Triple 955i and you really give the confidence to have a go! I may venture further in to checking/cleaning/lubing the eccentric mechanism....and I can't see in the service history that the bearings have ever been changed...but I feel well prepared and reassured it's within my competency. Thank you, ride safe. Subscribed. 👍
I'm not a mechanic either, but I have owned 5 Triumph 955/1050 triples and done the bearing grease about 8 times now. Nowadays I do it at 20000km, work a good lot of grease into the needle roller bearing then it's good for 40000km. I wipe the bearing clean of old grease with a clean dry rag, no solvent. It looks as if a hammer was needed to drive out the axle because it was rusted into the inner races of the 2 deep groove ball bearings. Triumph does not apply grease to that part of the axle. I do, then next time I don't need to use a hammer, just support the drive hub with one hand and withdraw the axle after removing the caliper. No need to loosen the eccentric hub, or remove the chain from the rear sprocket. I smear grease on the axle threads and splines too. At 146NM both nuts end up where they were before. I use a plastic tie on the retaining clip. I check the chain tension, but if was OK before, it has not changed. Re the chain, on my Daytona 955i I have run a Scottoiler since installing a new chain at 30000km. That chain has now done 85000km, still OK, no tight spot. I refill the oiler about every 4000km with chainsaw oil, check the chain tension every tyre change, occasionally check the chain is shiny with oil. The oil preserves the O-rings and the original grease stays inside the chain. I have used Cameleon electronic oilers on 3 other triples, highly recommended. IanB
Excellent detailed video. I have recently purchased a Tiger Sport 1050 and I believe the single sided swingarm on the Speed is the same. The bike has 70,000Km or 43,000miles in old money on it. Just had front and rear suspension rebuilt. Rear was never touched so bushings had all worn down to nothing. It'll be interesting to see the rear bearing although it feels fine, since I'm changing the chain and sprockets anyway I may do the grease packing as well. Keep up the great work.
Yeah very few people mess around with the single swing arm, because they think its complicated. Its very easy actually. Let me know what the bearings look like 👍
Thorough and methodical. On my sprint st1050 I use a cable tie to hold the circlip ends together on the wheel/non drive side just in case the circlip were to work loose or come out. However I am battling to get my bike's axle out as it seems to have seized inside the bearings. My bike has only done 16k dry miles although I don' think the rear hub has ever been touched, at least not in my 7 years of ownership to my shame. The bearings still seem to turn smoothly without notchiness. Many thanks subscribed.
czcams.com/video/879yeiA2OBw/video.htmlsi=s2lDo8RDt3GmckGQ Take a look at this video, I had a problem removing my axle. You might have the same problem.
Thank you for the lesson, reconciliation I will tackle mine, I was lo9king for the chain adjustment but you skipped that, I look forward to more tips from you.
I agree its a bit difficult to gauge, I know I was told by an engineer to leave a bit of space to allow the grease to expand and move around otherwise it could cause the rollers not to rotate properly and cause heating ( I was repacking a bearing on an electric motor at the time). You'd be surprised how little grease you need, Think of a liquid under pressure. But it was a very good video so keep up the good work. Just keep an eye (finger on the hub after a good ride).
Probably been said already but the caliper bolts should go in dry. Torquing them up with grease is a good way to destroy the thread due to hydraulic pressure. It's very rare to need to grease a bolt prior to installation. I also agree with another comment that if your going to strip the hub, remove and clean the eccentric adjuster mechanism but use normal grease sparingly on reassembly. When I did mine, the caliper carrier was a nightmare to remove as its such a close fit. I heated it in hot water prior to reinstallation and it slipped back on easily
Hi David, thanks for taking the time to view my channel, and all comments are appreciated. When to put anything on a thread, be it grease/anti seize or thread lock, is a minefield. This is a paragraph taken form the Speed Triple owners manual, unfortunately I couldn't screen shot the page. "INSTALLATION 1. Apply a thin smear of propriety high temperature brake grease to the threads of each caliper bolt" It's funny you should mention the eccentric adjuster, I'm in the process of stripping the swing arm. So have removed the eccentric adjuster, I noticed it is lubricated with copper grease/anti seize. This has never been off since I have owned the bike (from new) so although I couldn't find any mention of it in the manual, I'm guessing that's what is used. I think it would be useful, if along side the torque setting in the manual, they could indicate a dry, copper grease or thread lock on institution
my 03 chain adjuster is solid. i tap it with a drift for now but will strip it down when i take it off the road next winter. great vid dude. im not so apprehensive to tackle it now. cheers dude.
Just brought a speed that needed some tlc "and a new engine" very informative well shown video's! Who needs a manual anyway haha, top stuff mate appreciate the video!
I would tighten up the axle bolts first, then the pinch bolt on the chain adjuster. Doing it the other way means lateral stress on the axle. Great video, well presented Diolch yn fawr. Gareth Jones.
Thanks for the feed back👍 but pretty sure it won't make any difference. As the pinch bolt is tightening up on the eccentric adjuster. It doesn't affect the axle, I could remove the axle without loosening the chain adjuster pinch bolt.
Seems like a lot of people very over concerned on torque settings. Ive rarely used one on hundreds of engine rebuilds over the years. Dont get too hung up, torque is governed by spanner size so its a reasonable guide.
@@TheGixernutter well id go with that. Theres a lot more cool tools about these days. When i first started i was working with whitworth und unified fine threads, lol, the good old days eh
Thanks for your vid. I would never put and locking compound on brake pad pins as they are usually difficult enough to get out if they've been in there for a while. Thats why I would use copperslip or similar so you can get the buggers out when you want to.
i tried this on my 955 and the C spanner wouldn't budge (trying to tighten my chain). I deduced that the wheel is as far back as it can go and the chain is just stretched out. I'll need to get a new chain. Thank you for giving me the info to do this all by myself!
Update: I had found out that the previous owner claimed to have installed a brand new chain on it before I bought it. within 2 months it stretched out to about 4 inches of slack. My mechanic friend discovered that he bought this "new" chain off of amazon for $25, and it was not intended for motorcycle use but for use on stationary exercise equipment. He could've killed me! My mechanic saved my life. Put a proper chain on it! Good to go!
Referring to the comment by Nick D please be aware that most Torque values apply to dry threads and that the applied value should be decreased when threads are lubed otherwise there is the possibility of over tightening and damage.
Copper grease to stop the bolt from seizing, copper creates an electrical connection between the two different metals otherwise you add saltwater from the road and you have a battery that will cause galvanic corrosion.
Great video mate. Will be doing mine shortly (just getting the forks done) What did you use to clean out the bearings before re-greasing? Ref the rear brake bracket bolts as long as it’s torqued to the recommend 40NM I can’t see a problem using copper grease. Always good to watch someone do something before attempting myself. I learn by watching and not reading 🤣 Absolutely love working on my own bike and learning all the time. Also............saved me loads of money. The prices these dealers charge is crazy. Thanks again 👍🏻
Hi Nick, I used paraffin, lots of other things you could use. Just avoid solvent based products like petrol etc. Yeah dealer servicing can be a bit expensive, think they take the p**s sometimes.
Not a Motorbike Mechanic I only ever get them to do my Forks, valve clearance and throttle body checks. The rest I will do myself. That’s why I won’t buy a new bike. They have you by the balls with regards to servicing and the buyer loosing their warranty if they don’t get it serviced at a main dealer. Thieving b***ards! Will have my ‘08 speed till it rusts into oblivion. Bloody love that bike ☺️
Yes modern bikes are designed to stop you working on them. I'll probably be doing my valve clearance check over the winter, so hoping to put a video out.
Seems weird to me to have so little grease in there. Never worked on a motorbike but have greased car hubs many times. I was surprised the whole inside was not packed with grease.with a car hub it is completely filled. My thought was how can such a small amount of tease stay put. Won't it heat up a nod run away from the bearing. Just doesn't make sense to me.
Oh one other thing next time you service the hub, remove the calliper carrier and then the eccentric bearing carrier clean and copper slip to prevent corrosion between the swinging arm and carrier.
i dont mean to be off topic but does any of you know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb lost the account password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
@Reid Harper Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Nice vid, me personally, if I remove anything containing needle bearings and see any rust or grime I would replace them, if that bearing siezes....well you know.
Didn't you have a video showing possible rear suspension linkage with ceased bearings or bushes, where you could move the swingarm a few mm upwards without the suspension moving?
Hello brother, surely you're life is worth more than 20 pounds? That's coming from a tight arse ...... That's roughly 3 beers here in Australia. By the way excellent informative video, I look forward to many many more. ☺☺
Love your video's! Helped me out a couple of times. Still learning to do some of the maintenance on my own. How did you learn all the things necessary?
Really pleased you find the videos helpful. I’ve always enjoyed tinkering, even from a young age fixing pushbike etc. But just find information, read up on the thing you want to do, lots of info on internet/CZcams. But don’t just take someone’s word as gospel, cross reference your information, and don’t be afraid of trying something or making mistakes.
Great video as a moto mechanic new to single swing arm. My speed triple developed a play from 12 to 6 O'clock but not 9 to 3 you know what could it be? Thanks 😊
Hi I have a 2017 Tiger sport 1050 and follow your videos on the speed triple. I've found that my chain slackens off after setting tension. Is this a problem you've found in the past?
Great video man, thanks for recording each step. I am looking to purchase street triple/speed triple, so I watch this video to see if it's more hard to mantain speed triple. Would you say that single-sided swing arm is more expensive to maintain than street triple. I plan to do work myself, no matter the bike I get, doesnt look super hard and complex.
Very informative, I appreciate the nearly real time speed of the vid, nothing cut out. Please advise on how you stabilized the bike. Under the foot pegs?
Hi, i'm from Brazil an always see yours videos. I have a Tiger Sport 2015 with very similar components, but here we have a lot difficult to buy original itens for this bike. Its time to change all transmission system, chain and front/rear sprocket. Do you know if rear sprocket chain of street triple is the same dimensions to install on my bike? I know the original item from my have 45 teeths an street triple have 43, which is good for me because will have less rpm on cruise velocity. My fear is only drilling dimensions. Thanks like always.
Olá ,thanks for watching. I wouldn't like to say if parts are the same on your bike, but common parts like chains and sprockets would probably fit many bikes. I quite often cross reference part numbers using web sites like this, www.worldoftriumph.com/partscatalog/catalog/select/catalog/triumphmc/method/model/ Hope this helps
Hi thanks for the comments. Personally I thought I used the grease quite sparingly? How much would you have used? I would have thought, it’s quite difficult to over pack the bearing?
Great video 👍I have a triumph tiger sport 1050cc 14plate and I have just replaced my chain and sprockets, it went really well, but I have noticed a bit of play in my hub (rotational) probably about 5mm, do I need to replace the rubber dampers or is it something else??
@@notamotorbikemechanic just by turning the hub, I've just popped back out to see if I could see what's causing it and I've exaggerated a bit the play is no more than 1mm really
@@notamotorbikemechanic thanks for your advise it's much appreciated, I will keep an eye on it for week or so and make sure it doesn't get any worse, thanks again. Keeps the videos coming 👍
Great video on the rear hub. Question about the rear ABS sensor as my bike has lost the air gap and its started to squeal . Do you know the air gap from the disc ring to sensor and why I would loose the AIR gap as the sensor is hitting the segmented disc ring. (Bike only has 4000kms Not tracked or dropped) Any feedback is greatly appreciated
Hmm that's a strange one, first off I would point out. I'm not a motorbike mechanic, just a bloke in his shed so anything I say isn't a professionals opinion. But the tolerance between abs ring and sensor is very small, probably no more than a few sheets of paper (not a technical measurement sorry) There are no moving parts (except for the wheel of course) so should be no ware or change of tolerance/gap. I would try and think back to when this started, maybe after a tyre change, did it get a little bump then? Get the wheel off the ground and when rotating, try and see if it's making contact at only one point or is the ring rubbing all the way around. I can't say what I would do from here, without seeing the bike. But I would be careful, as replacement bit won't be cheap. Let me know how you get on.
Hey , only change was about 500kms ago was chain adjustment, 25mm play adjusted. Noticed today some movement in the rear wheel from top to bottom so need to get a center bike stand / lift to remove the rear wheel and hub to inspect. @@notamotorbikemechanic
Was the pinch bolt tightened properly after chain adjustment? ( but can't say that would cause this) Even a worn bearing wouldn't cause this (I think) Take the wheel off, inspect and refit (146 nm for nut) see if that sorts it out.
You can adjust if with the tyre on or off the ground. But check the free play whilst it’s on the side stand. You will need to find the correct amount of play required for your particular model. Whilst you’re there check that all the linkages are free to rotate against one another and check the teeth on your rear sprocket. Ideally check the free play all the way over the chain (push the bike forward every now and then to check all the way around the chain) use the master link as a reference point 👍🏻
Qualified, experienced mechanic and i spend my spare time watching other people tinkering. How sad i am.
Thanks for making an excellent video of the rear axle of the Speed, few videos are made with this detail, which is appreciated.
Love your work mate. Have a 2011 Speedy and hate paying others to work on my vehicles. Your videos are clear concise and filmed well. Has made working on mine infinitely easier. Cheers from Australia.
Yes I also hate paying for something I can do myself, glad you like the videos 🇦🇺
Should you not have removed the bearings for a thorough cleaning and inspection ? A very clear, step by step and non confusing instructional video this is. Commendable work.
A visual inspection is enough, you can roll the bearings in your fingers. You would notice a problem. Dont really want to remove things unnecessary.
Thanks for your kind words👍
You are one of the many under rated people on CZcams.
For the level of detail work and effort put, you really had to have an exponentially growing follower group.
Anyways, good luck mate.. Keep up the good work
sandyroadking , that's very kind. Just nice to show people that we can tackle most things, without spending a fortune at the dealership.
thanks for video very helpful.
just done it on my Sprint Gt 1050, basically exact same procedure everything the same torque settings etc, brake caliper in different place that's about the only difference.
and having a main centre stand,,
Happy to help👍
Excellent, well paced, clearly explained video, many thanks! I have this job on my horizon for my Triple 955i and you really give the confidence to have a go! I may venture further in to checking/cleaning/lubing the eccentric mechanism....and I can't see in the service history that the bearings have ever been changed...but I feel well prepared and reassured it's within my competency. Thank you, ride safe. Subscribed. 👍
Awesome, glad you enjoyed 👍🏼
Extremely helpful I successfully completed my bearing repack thank you so much for your help!
Glad to help 😩
I'm not a mechanic either, but I have owned 5 Triumph 955/1050 triples and done the bearing grease about 8 times now. Nowadays I do it at 20000km, work a good lot of grease into the needle roller bearing then it's good for 40000km. I wipe the bearing clean of old grease with a clean dry rag, no solvent. It looks as if a hammer was needed to drive out the axle because it was rusted into the inner races of the 2 deep groove ball bearings. Triumph does not apply grease to that part of the axle. I do, then next time I don't need to use a hammer, just support the drive hub with one hand and withdraw the axle after removing the caliper. No need to loosen the eccentric hub, or remove the chain from the rear sprocket. I smear grease on the axle threads and splines too. At 146NM both nuts end up where they were before. I use a plastic tie on the retaining clip. I check the chain tension, but if was OK before, it has not changed.
Re the chain, on my Daytona 955i I have run a Scottoiler since installing a new chain at 30000km. That chain has now done 85000km, still OK, no tight spot. I refill the oiler about every 4000km with chainsaw oil, check the chain tension every tyre change, occasionally check the chain is shiny with oil. The oil preserves the O-rings and the original grease stays inside the chain. I have used Cameleon electronic oilers on 3 other triples, highly recommended.
IanB
Thanks for the helpful info.
Take care
NMM
I'm new to single swing arm set ups. I noticed a 12oclock to 6oclock play but no play 3 to 9. No bearing hum or grind.
I watched this about a year ago, maybe two years. Well my rear tire is shot already so I'm going to do it all again. Thanks for the tutorial!!
Glad to help, need to do mine again.
Think I might get the swing arm off as well, not done that yet.
Going to be attempting this myself over xmas feel a bit more confident now I’ve watched your vid thanks.....
Awesome, that's what it's all about, learning from each other. Just take your time👍
Just replaced the needle and sealed bearings on my 1997 T509. Your video helped tremendously thank you!
Awesome, glad to help
Excellent detailed video. I have recently purchased a Tiger Sport 1050 and I believe the single sided swingarm on the Speed is the same. The bike has 70,000Km or 43,000miles in old money on it. Just had front and rear suspension rebuilt. Rear was never touched so bushings had all worn down to nothing. It'll be interesting to see the rear bearing although it feels fine, since I'm changing the chain and sprockets anyway I may do the grease packing as well. Keep up the great work.
Yeah very few people mess around with the single swing arm, because they think its complicated. Its very easy actually.
Let me know what the bearings look like 👍
Thorough and methodical. On my sprint st1050 I use a cable tie to hold the circlip ends together on the wheel/non drive side just in case the circlip were to work loose or come out.
However I am battling to get my bike's axle out as it seems to have seized inside the bearings. My bike has only done 16k dry miles although I don' think the rear hub has ever been touched, at least not in my 7 years of ownership to my shame. The bearings still seem to turn smoothly without notchiness.
Many thanks subscribed.
czcams.com/video/879yeiA2OBw/video.htmlsi=s2lDo8RDt3GmckGQ
Take a look at this video, I had a problem removing my axle.
You might have the same problem.
My biggest hurdle with mechanics is having all the tools. You're well kitted out there. Cheers.
As you take on jobs buy what you need and slowly you will have a complete toolbox
Thank you for the lesson, reconciliation I will tackle mine, I was lo9king for the chain adjustment but you skipped that, I look forward to more tips from you.
Thanks I will be doing this soon. Just got my 07 triple with 24k on the ticker. Love this freaking machine.
Always place a plastic tie on the retaining Clip for good practice .
I agree its a bit difficult to gauge, I know I was told by an engineer to leave a bit of space to allow the grease to expand and move around otherwise it could cause the rollers not to rotate properly and cause heating ( I was repacking a bearing on an electric motor at the time). You'd be surprised how little grease you need, Think of a liquid under pressure. But it was a very good video so keep up the good work. Just keep an eye (finger on the hub after a good ride).
Probably been said already but the caliper bolts should go in dry. Torquing them up with grease is a good way to destroy the thread due to hydraulic pressure.
It's very rare to need to grease a bolt prior to installation.
I also agree with another comment that if your going to strip the hub, remove and clean the eccentric adjuster mechanism but use normal grease sparingly on reassembly.
When I did mine, the caliper carrier was a nightmare to remove as its such a close fit. I heated it in hot water prior to reinstallation and it slipped back on easily
Hi David, thanks for taking the time to view my channel, and all comments are appreciated. When to put anything on a thread, be it grease/anti seize or thread lock, is a minefield.
This is a paragraph taken form the Speed Triple owners manual, unfortunately I couldn't screen shot the page.
"INSTALLATION
1. Apply a thin smear of propriety high temperature brake grease to the threads of each caliper bolt"
It's funny you should mention the eccentric adjuster, I'm in the process of stripping the swing arm.
So have removed the eccentric adjuster, I noticed it is lubricated with copper grease/anti seize. This has never been off since I have owned the bike (from new)
so although I couldn't find any mention of it in the manual, I'm guessing that's what is used.
I think it would be useful, if along side the torque setting in the manual, they could indicate a dry, copper grease or thread lock on institution
my 03 chain adjuster is solid. i tap it with a drift for now but will strip it down when i take it off the road next winter. great vid dude. im not so apprehensive to tackle it now. cheers dude.
Yeah mine was a little tight, last time I adjusted it.
Think I’m going to totally strip the rear end soon, swing arm/chain adjuster etc.
@@notamotorbikemechanic cant wait for the vid on that one then.
Just brought a speed that needed some tlc "and a new engine" very informative well shown video's! Who needs a manual anyway haha, top stuff mate appreciate the video!
Cheers that’s very nice of you
Excellent video taffy. Very informative. Great job.
I would tighten up the axle bolts first, then the pinch bolt on the chain adjuster. Doing it the other way means lateral stress on the axle. Great video, well presented Diolch yn fawr. Gareth Jones.
Thanks for the feed back👍 but pretty sure it won't make any difference. As the pinch bolt is tightening up on the eccentric adjuster. It doesn't affect the axle, I could remove the axle without loosening the chain adjuster pinch bolt.
Seems like a lot of people very over concerned on torque settings. Ive rarely used one on hundreds of engine rebuilds over the years. Dont get too hung up, torque is governed by spanner size so its a reasonable guide.
For us its ok, for a novice it would be a good idea. Al least till they get a feel.
@@TheGixernutter well id go with that. Theres a lot more cool tools about these days. When i first started i was working with whitworth und unified fine threads, lol, the good old days eh
Thank you for your video! Very detailed and useful!
Thanks for your vid. I would never put and locking compound on brake pad pins as they are usually difficult enough to get out if they've been in there for a while. Thats why I would use copperslip or similar so you can get the buggers out when you want to.
yeah, I agree. think some times we might reach for the thread lock 'just in case'
always check owners manual
Outstanding video ! Will reference when its time to service my S3R !
Happy to help 👍
Well detailed video! Much appreciated.
i tried this on my 955 and the C spanner wouldn't budge (trying to tighten my chain). I deduced that the wheel is as far back as it can go and the chain is just stretched out. I'll need to get a new chain. Thank you for giving me the info to do this all by myself!
Update: I had found out that the previous owner claimed to have installed a brand new chain on it before I bought it. within 2 months it stretched out to about 4 inches of slack. My mechanic friend discovered that he bought this "new" chain off of amazon for $25, and it was not intended for motorcycle use but for use on stationary exercise equipment. He could've killed me! My mechanic saved my life. Put a proper chain on it! Good to go!
Referring to the comment by Nick D please be aware that most Torque values apply to dry threads and that the applied value should be decreased when threads are lubed otherwise there is the possibility of over tightening and damage.
Noted, thanks for the input.
What I was confused about, is one brake calliper bolt and copper grease, the other didn’t 🤷🏻♂️
Great video !.....MANY THANKS !
Glad you liked it!
Copper grease to stop the bolt from seizing, copper creates an electrical connection between the two different metals otherwise you add saltwater from the road and you have a battery that will cause galvanic corrosion.
Awesome video.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏍
Great video, thanks!
Adam Perkins , your welcome, like and subscribe for more videos 👍
Really useful video, thank you!
Great Video mate, I'm hoping to do my Sprint ST 1050 very soon. This looks very similar if not the same.
Excellent let us know how it goes.
I believe it’s exactly the same 👍🏼
Yes, i am a sprint owner and this is the same assembly ! Thanks for your guide !
Good video, thanks !
Glad you liked it!
excellent guide.
Great helpful videos thanks
Great video mate. Will be doing mine shortly (just getting the forks done)
What did you use to clean out the bearings before re-greasing? Ref the rear brake bracket bolts as long as it’s torqued to the recommend 40NM I can’t see a problem using copper grease.
Always good to watch someone do something before attempting myself. I learn by watching and not reading 🤣
Absolutely love working on my own bike and learning all the time. Also............saved me loads of money. The prices these dealers charge is crazy. Thanks again 👍🏻
Hi Nick, I used paraffin, lots of other things you could use. Just avoid solvent based products like petrol etc.
Yeah dealer servicing can be a bit expensive, think they take the p**s sometimes.
Not a Motorbike Mechanic
I only ever get them to do my Forks, valve clearance and throttle body checks. The rest I will do myself. That’s why I won’t buy a new bike. They have you by the balls with regards to servicing and the buyer loosing their warranty if they don’t get it serviced at a main dealer. Thieving b***ards! Will have my ‘08 speed till it rusts into oblivion. Bloody love that bike ☺️
Yes modern bikes are designed to stop you working on them.
I'll probably be doing my valve clearance check over the winter, so hoping to put a video out.
Seems weird to me to have so little grease in there. Never worked on a motorbike but have greased car hubs many times. I was surprised the whole inside was not packed with grease.with a car hub it is completely filled. My thought was how can such a small amount of tease stay put. Won't it heat up a nod run away from the bearing. Just doesn't make sense to me.
Very good! Whole different ball game when the damn chain tensioner is seized! :(
Odear, have you sorted it, large amounts of penetrating oil?
Another good vid.
Nice video thanks 🙏🙏
Excellent video sir. Subscribed.
Your welcome, thanks for the support 👍
Oh one other thing next time you service the hub, remove the calliper carrier and then the eccentric bearing carrier clean and copper slip to prevent corrosion between the swinging arm and carrier.
i dont mean to be off topic but does any of you know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost the account password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
@Landen Francisco Instablaster :)
@Reid Harper Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Reid Harper it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Landen Francisco happy to help :D
Nice vid, me personally, if I remove anything containing needle bearings and see any rust or grime I would replace them, if that bearing siezes....well you know.
Absolutely right, always replace anything that looks suspect. But these bearings were in great condition.
Ditto...well done...
Didn't you have a video showing possible rear suspension linkage with ceased bearings or bushes, where you could move the swingarm a few mm upwards without the suspension moving?
Hello brother, surely you're life is worth more than 20 pounds? That's coming from a tight arse ...... That's roughly 3 beers here in Australia. By the way excellent informative video, I look forward to many many more. ☺☺
Nice work man!
Triumph, Ducati, MV and Aprilia Futura are all very similar.
Love your video's! Helped me out a couple of times. Still learning to do some of the maintenance on my own. How did you learn all the things necessary?
Really pleased you find the videos helpful.
I’ve always enjoyed tinkering, even from a young age fixing pushbike etc.
But just find information, read up on the thing you want to do, lots of info on internet/CZcams.
But don’t just take someone’s word as gospel, cross reference your information, and don’t be afraid of trying something or making mistakes.
Cheers, got to do mine soon, don't suppose it's ever been done!
It’s not difficult, and quite rewarding. 👍🏼
you earned a subscriber sir!
Welcome aboard
@@notamotorbikemechanic 👍
Great video as a moto mechanic new to single swing arm. My speed triple developed a play from 12 to 6 O'clock but not 9 to 3 you know what could it be? Thanks 😊
Have you stripped it down?
Hi I have a 2017 Tiger sport 1050 and follow your videos on the speed triple. I've found that my chain slackens off after setting tension. Is this a problem you've found in the past?
Yes I have found that can happen, also noticed it on normal swing arm bikes.
I find it can slightly tighten or slacken, after tightening it up.
Great video man, thanks for recording each step. I am looking to purchase street triple/speed triple, so I watch this video to see if it's more hard to mantain speed triple. Would you say that single-sided swing arm is more expensive to maintain than street triple. I plan to do work myself, no matter the bike I get, doesnt look super hard and complex.
I wouldn't say its more expensive or difficult, just different. Lots of things are easier, like chain adjustment and wheel removal.
Very informative, I appreciate the nearly real time speed of the vid, nothing cut out. Please advise on how you stabilized the bike. Under the foot pegs?
Or under the foot peg mounting bracket. (I've got a shine rear set on my 05 speedy
Yeah under the foot peg mounts, put some rags around the area if your worried about scratching.
As you can see I also used a trolley jack, to help.
great, I'll be getting to soon! I just watched the vid on the rear linkage to might as well do that at the same time! Thanks for the content
Did you lift the bike under the foot pegs?
Is that part resistent enough for the motorcycle weigth?
It's supported by the frame, that the pegs attached to. More than strong enough 💪 👍
Nice vid mate.
Thank you 👍🏼
@@notamotorbikemechanic just passed my test,getting my first big bike on Thursday. Video like yours will make
Maintaining it much easier.
@@notamotorbikemechanic forgot to say it's a Triumph sprint st .
@@paulgatenby1264 , well done on passing, just in time for summer.
sprint/speed much the same, so mechanically similar.
a quale percorrenza km dovrebbe esser fatto questo ingrassaggio?
Every 4 years or 40,000 km (24,000 miles) 👍
Hi, i'm from Brazil an always see yours videos. I have a Tiger Sport 2015 with very similar components, but here we have a lot difficult to buy original itens for this bike. Its time to change all transmission system, chain and front/rear sprocket. Do you know if rear sprocket chain of street triple is the same dimensions to install on my bike? I know the original item from my have 45 teeths an street triple have 43, which is good for me because will have less rpm on cruise velocity. My fear is only drilling dimensions. Thanks like always.
Olá ,thanks for watching.
I wouldn't like to say if parts are the same on your bike, but common parts like chains and sprockets would probably fit many bikes.
I quite often cross reference part numbers using web sites like this, www.worldoftriumph.com/partscatalog/catalog/select/catalog/triumphmc/method/model/
Hope this helps
Brilliant video but you may have over packed the bearing, just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't over heat.
Hi thanks for the comments.
Personally I thought I used the grease quite sparingly?
How much would you have used?
I would have thought, it’s quite difficult to over pack the bearing?
where can I buy a workshop manual for my 2013 speed triple? I love in Oz. How did you get yours?
Haines probably do one, think I got an online one. Think its only online with bikes after 2016
Great video 👍I have a triumph tiger sport 1050cc 14plate and I have just replaced my chain and sprockets, it went really well, but I have noticed a bit of play in my hub (rotational) probably about 5mm, do I need to replace the rubber dampers or is it something else??
Ok, so how are you getting this measurement ?
@@notamotorbikemechanic just by turning the hub, I've just popped back out to see if I could see what's causing it and I've exaggerated a bit the play is no more than 1mm really
I'd say that's acceptable, the rubber dampers I would have thought wouldn't need replacing, except if they had deteriorated (in my opinion)
@@notamotorbikemechanic thanks for your advise it's much appreciated, I will keep an eye on it for week or so and make sure it doesn't get any worse, thanks again. Keeps the videos coming 👍
Great video on the rear hub. Question about the rear ABS sensor as my bike has lost the air gap and its started to squeal . Do you know the air gap from the disc ring to sensor and why I would loose the AIR gap as the sensor is hitting the segmented disc ring. (Bike only has 4000kms Not tracked or dropped) Any feedback is greatly appreciated
Hmm that's a strange one, first off I would point out. I'm not a motorbike mechanic, just a bloke in his shed so anything I say isn't a professionals opinion.
But the tolerance between abs ring and sensor is very small, probably no more than a few sheets of paper (not a technical measurement sorry)
There are no moving parts (except for the wheel of course) so should be no ware or change of tolerance/gap.
I would try and think back to when this started, maybe after a tyre change, did it get a little bump then? Get the wheel off the ground and when rotating, try and see if it's making contact at only one point or is the ring rubbing all the way around.
I can't say what I would do from here, without seeing the bike. But I would be careful, as replacement bit won't be cheap.
Let me know how you get on.
Hey , only change was about 500kms ago was chain adjustment, 25mm play adjusted. Noticed today some movement in the rear wheel from top to bottom so need to get a center bike stand / lift to remove the rear wheel and hub to inspect. @@notamotorbikemechanic
Was the pinch bolt tightened properly after chain adjustment? ( but can't say that would cause this)
Even a worn bearing wouldn't cause this (I think)
Take the wheel off, inspect and refit (146 nm for nut) see if that sorts it out.
None of us saw the corpse behind the filing cabinet at 10:59 no sireeeeee!
🤣🤣 👢 👢
You don’t put thread lock on caliper Bolts you put coppaslip
Yes mike, that’s correct for this bike.
Some manufacturers state thread lock.
I’ve always wondered why?
I have a 2002 triumph daytona 955. Can the chain be adjusted on the stand or can it be adjusted with the rear tire on the ground? Does it matter?
you can do it any way, just easier on a stand.
You can adjust if with the tyre on or off the ground. But check the free play whilst it’s on the side stand. You will need to find the correct amount of play required for your particular model. Whilst you’re there check that all the linkages are free to rotate against one another and check the teeth on your rear sprocket. Ideally check the free play all the way over the chain (push the bike forward every now and then to check all the way around the chain) use the master link as a reference point 👍🏻
Is this an Elf Patent design like Honda VFR, ?
Sorry I'm not familiar with that, so wouldn't know
Cymru am byth!