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Replacing an Electric Car Battery Pack, Part 2 (Mitsubishi iMiEV)
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2024
- Second video of replacing the battery pack in my 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEV electric car.
Please click SHOW MORE!
00:00 Introduction
00:52 Making Connections
1:38 CHAdeMO Cables
2:10 Main Disconnect
2:52 12V Battery
3:14 Turning On the Car!
5:26 CHAdeMO and J1772 Charging
7:07 Next Time...
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Awesome. Love seeing what the EV community can do and teach others.
Two great videos. On another video they threaded 12 inches of threaded rod into the corner battery bolt holes, to aid aligning the battery as you jack it up. Another (same ?) video, instead of a jack, they removed one bolt at a time, threaded the rod in, and tightened up again with a nut on the rod. Repeat for the other bolt holes. Then unscrew the nuts in stages to lower the battery onto a trolley. Cheap, but long-winded.
always remove the ground wire from the 12v battery first and install it last. I saw a video this morning showing a fire starting from the wrench touching the frame while tightening the positive last.
Great video series, Ben! Super informative and interesting. Start trying to protect some of the rusty areas if possible! Also, who knows, maybe you can get the big upgrade replacement eventually, or maybe open the pack and swap the cells with different new ones.
Great videos 1 and 2. How is the vehicle going with the new battery? Any part: coming? Thanks
I look forward to seeing what dongle and app you use for assessing the batteries.
I love the creativity and originality of your content.
Your audio seemed to cut out occasionally. Otherwise thanks for showing this isn’t magic or un doable.
Nice project
Just as with the old battery, this battery needs a balance charge before you can assess its health. Obviously those two low cells shouldn’t be that low but if the battery was sitting without a balance charge for months, 0.085v differential means nothing.
Once its fully balance charged it can be checked for voltage sag under full acceleration with the heater on to find the cells with highest IR. Then it can be driven down to 10-20% SOC, allowed rest for an hour, then the voltage of each cell will show capacity.
Then it can be charged to 80% , given time to settle, screenshot the cell voltages, leave the car off for a week without driving it, then check again for self-discharge. This time the low cells that dropped the most since the previous screen shot will show cells that are self discharging.
From that basic test you will know the battery health, and if those two cells need to be replaced or if normal operation (performing balance charge once a week) will keep everything balanced.
Some balance circuits work once they get too far out of balance, hopefully both your batteries will if you leave them plugged in for a week.
We'll talk more about cell balancing in another video!
What is a balanced charge ? And how do you do it ?
@@AaronDwyer , depends on the BMS but normally its when the charger is left plugged in, the bms will top balance the pack.
@@BenjaminNelsonX What happened to Part 3?
Great info. Thanks
Very good.
I have the same two orange signs popped up. 1st one is tires pressure but what that “car sign with !” means? 4:18
Does this mean you won't be able to use your chatemo output adapter connector that you made to power things in your home with this car? Really enjoyed watching that video series.
Why was it necessary to install the bad battery onto the damaged car ?
The main reason is that the salvage car actually still drives!
By placing my old battery in it, I can still move the car in my driveway. I'm on a highly visible corner and in an area where people tend to be pretty strict on disabled vehicles. I had also previously beat out the major dents in the front of the car.
I have an especially nosey neighbor who actually once sic'd the County on me!
@@BenjaminNelsonX
It would be a good idea at some point to start changing cells to equalize the ones in the good battery.
That would be an intersting video, or maybe a short series...🤔
Plus, we got some video of the installation that was missed. Thanks Ben.
BTW, what are you going to do with the old car and battery?
I have one with 32K on it.
IIRC you need to have the Mitsubishi MUT-III to set the new serial number for the batery so it does not stay in limp mode. Could be wrong!
Not the battery. I know there are a few parts with an embedded VIN that can cause issues on parts swaps, but this isn't one.
Hey Ben, how did that charging go? I'm very much into this idea!
Right now, the car is charging to just over 40 miles of estimated range.
Not too bad for a 12 year old battery, and definitely better than what I had!
Glad to hear that! @@BenjaminNelsonX
Hey bën did you have any CAN BUS issues talking to the swapped battery
No.
@@BenjaminNelsonX thanks buddy, and how's the errors now, did they clear themselves or did you need to clear via OBD?
How did the mileage change from 79k in part 1 to 83k part 2? Also, one of the reasons I wanted to get an iMiev (I had to settle for a LEAF because I couldn't find a used iMiev in Iowa) was the lithium titanate battery they used was supposed to degrade much less than the lithium manganese or lithium cobalt batteries that were popular at the time, but degradation still adds up when the cycles are shorter.
Lithium Titanate was JDM only. All export models used LEV50s
@@alanbrown397 I knew Nissan changed the batteries for their export models, but hadn't read that Mitsubishi did the same thing. What exactly are LEV50s? So, the only thing I lost going with the LEAF was a couple cubic feet of space in my garage.
@@extragoode Yuasa Prismatic Li-graphite-ion batteries, obsoleted by the LEV61 (also no longer available as far as I can tell)
LI Titanate was a change late in the JDM model run. They originally had LEV50 and I believe titanate was an option, not standard
It's worth noting that the same basic electronics are in the Citroen Berlingo EV and related PSA vehicles, with upsized batteries
The BMU is a standard Mitsubishi ECU, heavily deployed in late 1990s to early 2010s in the Evo and Lancer, amongst others
Do NOT buy a car prior to 2013. That's when LEV50 chemistry was changed (LEV50N) and the earlier batteries fade out badly after a decade. My 2012 Pugeot Ion is down to 20 miles range on a charge and that's AFTER swapping out 16 of the worst cells in the 88 cell pack. The cost of replacing with a third party CATL repack and reprogramming is about $8000 but this will at least double the original range from 60 to 150 miles
what is the point of putting the "bad" battery in to the donercar ?
The main reason is that the salvage car actually still drives!
By placing my old battery in it, I can still move the car in my driveway. I'm on a highly visible corner and in an area where people tend to be pretty strict on disabled vehicles. I had also previously beat out the major dents in the front of the car.
I’ll soon have the ability to purchase a newer vehicle. My current gasoline car is a honda and is almost at 400,000 miles.
What is your overall experience with mileage per charge on your iMiev. I’m considering looking at those and I’m also interested in hybrids, specifically the Toyota prius.
I would like an EV vs a hybrid however, I also would like to be able to go further without frequent charging.
I’ve very torn over the matter. This will be my only car once I purchase it. Anyways, thanks for the knowledge you share in your videos.
I would definitely recommend something with longer range for an only car unless you only plan to use public transportation or rent something when you leave town, in that case you just need enough range to get to the rental car/airport/bus station. You don't say what country you're in, but Chademo is on it's way out almost everywhere. I really like my LEAF, but getting another one and buying into a Chademo port for another 5 to 10 years gives me pause.
@@extragoode I’m in the states and have decided on the Prius.
A family member keeps insisting that a ford c-max is what I need, even tho they don’t own one or any ev/hybrid vehicle. They know an older friend that has one and loves how reliable it is. They rarely drive their c-max, 2,000 a 3,000 miles a year, that’s not enough data from a random person. Especially someone without any automotive knowledge, which they admit that they know nothing about cars.
I’ve researched the prius for the last 5 yrs. I hadn’t thought about anything else until i saw these vids on the mitsubishis. After a brief look at the Mitsubishi, they unfortunately have very limited range for my needs, as do the Nissan leaf.
So in the long run, the toyota prius is better suited for my needs.
Thanks for your reply. I saw that about chademo chargers. That would def be a deterrent if i was purchasing an older ev.
Any new updates???
Yes, just been busy, hard finding time to work on the video. There will be more coming.
To be safe I would remove the fast charge port.
There is no power at the fast charge port.
When plugging in to a DC Fast Charger, there is no power at the connection. It needs to communicate with the car and pass a series of checks. Only then does power activate at the charger cord.
Without the small communications cables going into the battery, there is NO WAY for the DC Fast Charger to activate.
Any hint of part 3 buddy,? Thanks
It’s coming. I’m out of town this week. I’ll get it edited when I’m back.
Loving the series but saw there isn't a update I have two i-mievs (both Peugeot ion derivatives) one has 27% Deg and one that has 40% Deg I'm interested to see what the old battery was and what the new battery is
Hope we see part 3
@@martinstab2me too
👍💪✌
So mitsubishi have ev as well?
This was a 2012 model Mitsubishi EV available in the U.S. market. It's no longer made. Mitsubishi currently offers a Plug-In Hybrid (PHEV) version of the Outlander.
@@BenjaminNelsonX whoa nice. .
@@BenjaminNelsonX are they good ecars?
Everyone watching this…. If you’re not remotely a mechanic in any: DONT DO THIS DIY!!!! This is High Voltage batteries, if you don’t what you’re doing or make a mistake, you die!!!