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Active Exhaust Delete Options for Dodge Challenger and Charger - FREE vs. Z Automotive vs. Khaos
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- Going over the various options for Active Exhaust Delete on Dodge Challengers and Dodge Chargers. I test out the free option, go over the mechanical option showing the Khaos Motorsports Kit, and finally install the Z Automotive Inactive Plug Kit.
I also point the camera at the actuators during start-up to visually see what exactly they do and how they move.
After install is complete I take another drive with my mic'd up exhaust to hear what difference the Active Exhaust Delete actually makes (you'll want a good set of speakers or headphones for this part)
Finally I share my thoughts on the different options and discuss which options I think are worth it and why I chose to go the route I did.
Timeline:
0:31 - What exactly is an Active Exhaust?
1:45 - Unboxing the Khaos Motorsports Delete Kit
2:27 - Unboxing the Z Automotive Inactive Exhaust Plug Kit
3:50 - Removing the Actuators and wiring the valves open
7:20 - GoPro view of the actuators in motion during start-up
11:09 - Installing the Z Automotive Plugs
13:31 - Describing how the Khaos Motorsports Kit works
14:45 - How much do the stock actuators weigh?
16:33 - Active vs. Inactive Exhaust Sound Clips (get the good headphones out)
19:15 - Final Thoughts
Affiliate Links:
Products seen or used in this video:
Z Automotive Inactive Exhaust Plug Kit - bit.ly/36MmVrY
Khaos Motorsports Active Exhaust Delete Kit - amzn.to/3cOH18H
Race Ramps 56" 1 Piece - amzn.to/2YYOVUF
Race Ramps 12" Wheel Chocks - amzn.to/36LLOE0
Pro Lift 40" Creeper - amzn.to/2YRFA0X
Car Parts, Mods, and Racing Accessories I have and use:
Daytona 3-Ton Low-Profile Floor Jack: bit.ly/37uRqDu
Mopar T/A cold air intake kit P/N 77072436: amzn.to/3js4cXS
Nexen Sur4G 275/40R20 Drag Radials: amzn.to/39UFwDY
Nitto NT555 G2 275/40R20: amzn.to/2MYrgkF
Pennzoil 0W-40 Ultra Platinum Oil: amzn.to/2YTL9w4
Mopar SRT Oil Filter: amzn.to/3rtSyhF
UPR Oil Catch Can: amzn.to/3jxzT1W
K&N Oil Breather 62-1030: amzn.to/3tyWqQo
Dragy: amzn.to/2YUAGQN
Simpson Helmet: amzn.to/3pSVxzU
Cameras and Recording Equipment I use:
GoPro Hero - amzn.to/3jpL7Fq
Samsung Galaxy Note20 Ultra 5G - amzn.to/3pZPdXh
iOttie Windshield/Dash Phone Mount - amzn.to/39TmQVk
DJI OM4 Phone Gimbal - amzn.to/3oX9s6A
GoPro Headstrap and accessory kit - bit.ly/2HxMEKL
GoPro Dual Battery Kit - amzn.to/2LxBw36
For whatever reason the free option that I show doesn't work on cars with the 5.7 It'll only work on 19 and up 6.4s and Hellcats.
I have a 17 392. So I assume the Free method you remove the spring from the casing and screw it back on? That way it can’t twist the valve that’s wired? I have a rattle and it’s annoying.
@@ztidz did you end up doing it I have a 17 as well and I’m thinking of doing the same
Why would the free option not work on the 5.7? Asking because I have a '19 Challenger R/T
@@erikleach1753 my guess is it's something to do with the programming. While 6.2s and 6.4s went through some changes in 2019 they must not have made changes for the 5.7s. But again that's just my guess. So far everyone I know that's tried it with a 5.7 has said the check engine light comes on
@@392Alexdid it work for you ? I’m asking you because I have the same problem with my 2017 scat pack
I have a new, Scat Pack, Shaker Challenger and I opened the actuator servos, removed the springs, *zip-tied* the valves open (way better/easier than wire) and bolted the servos back on... 20 minutes, soup to nuts and it runs fine with no code Absolutely no problems and it sounds terrific! 😊
I GEEATLY appreciate your video, had One side of my exhaust stuck closed, use your z automotive and instructions, DONE. after the dealer told me it would be as much as 5k to fix, you saved the day for me. 🙏
Glad it helped and that you were able to get that fixed. Thanks for watching!
Now I know why I had so many problems with the active exhaust system on my 2016 SRT 392. Had a borla exhaust and once added the check engine light stayed on. Purchased a kit from active exhaust solutions which was a nightmare. Bulky and difficult to install and it never worked correctly. I ended up selling the car after literally driving around for 3 years with the check engine light on! Looking to buy a wide body Scat with shaker now so I'm glad that there is a much better alternative with the Z automotive kit. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! I haven't heard of the active exhaust solutions but that sucks you had to deal with that light on the entire time. The wide body shakers are pretty sweet, but if you get one you have the free option you can do too. I plan on racing a road course in mine and I already know I'd wish I had a wide body scat for that.
@@Scavenger1320 There's a free option? I love that 1320 tho! Limited production numbers is what I like most about them. My SRT 392 was actually 1 of 11.
@@moparmade392 2019 and up there is. Gonna do that free delete on a buddy's 2019 1320 when we meet up at the track in a couple weeks. It's cool having a more rare car. Mine the way it's spec'd out is 1 of 1.
I have the same problem 2016 SRT 392 active exhaust is on now and it's annoying
@Scavenger1320 If u could give me some more info about the free option on 2019 and up I'd really appreciate that.
With headphones, I can hear the greatest difference on acceleration. All the others not as much. Yes, did sound deeper, throatier, which is good. I like this idea, thanks for the detailed information.
Thanks for watching!
Great review and comparisons with all the different options. First install review I've seen on the Z Automotive exhaust plug kit.
Thanks! I just found out about them a few weeks ago myself and had to get them right away I appreciate the support!
I have a '17 with a Flowmaster catback system and i need to get the Z Automotive plugs to clear the check engine light.
Perfect use for the Z Auto plugs! I've had mine installed for well over 3 years now and no issues.
Don’t know how I missed this video, but I’m caught up now. Great info. Thanks
I appreciate you catching them all! I know with the Showdown I've been putting a bunch out more often than I normally would
Wow your detail in this video is amazing, great job brother! Priceless information.
Thank you! Much appreciated!
This video is perfect, loved the clips of active vs inactive.
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I went with the Khaos kit before replacing all the exhaust from headers back and hanging the active exhaust out of the way to keep the CEL from coming on.
That's why the exhaust in your vids sounds so good! Mine still needs a little more work. Thanks for watching!
yes when you start it does a self check for about 20 mins. codes usually come after start and stop a few times. i am getting this kit today. just ordered!
I have a good amount of z automotive products. I won’t get mention but my findings are gonna be in the new instruction update🙏🏽 I say that to say z automotive listens! Those caps for the inactive exhaust is a new add on. The user “work play drive” influenced that decision, he had make shifted some caps to keep the stock plugs clean now they ship with those caps.
They need folks like us 😂 thanks for the video, 2018 and down can’t do the free option. So the other options was perfect to demonstrate.
Appreciate the info! Thanks for watching!
What if I just cut off the valves and add a 3 inch pipe? Will I still get a check engine light?
Great vid .. my 2019 Charger RT was rattling so I took it to an exhaust shop and he wired the flap open but it threw off a code .. I need to invest in the simulators cause I want to keep my valves open .
Forgot to mention I do have a corsa xtreme cat back exhaust on too
I don't know why the 5.7s are different, but they are for some reason. I'm doing a giveaway of the Khaos Motorsports delete kit you saw in this vid. Details are in my newest vid if you wanted to enter - czcams.com/video/AkeTpuPty2M/video.html
Did they change your catalytic converters
Dang so for 5.7 you can’t do the zip tie method? I was hoping to do that and not have to spend fking $180 for it lol
So i have a 2016 scatpack challenger what option can i do to delete my active actuator
Any of the options I talk about except the free one. Either the mechanical delete kits or the Z Auto dummy plugs will work. The free one would technically work too, but not without tripping the engine light.
My guy weighs everything! Lmao…… Great Vid!….. I”m coming over to get mine done next!!! Lol
EVERYTHING!!! lol. Cabin Fever on the 20th! I'll bring my ramps and wire and we can get it deleted for you at the track!
Great video and well-detailed. Gave me plenty of good info to consider. Much appreciated, and please keep the content coming, Bro!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it! 👊
Good explanation and demonstration of the different options! I agree with your assessment.
Thank you!
And you can take the spring out out and use a ziptie. So two zipties or wire will do the trick.
Like the video. Clean ride too.
I used zip ties on mine and now I’m getting this loud ass noise it sounds like the valve is still attempting to open . Am I the only one getting that or do you as well? Thanks for reply .
Great video man! And great job going above and beyond multiple products for the sake of the review. Also congrats on 500 Subs!! I was also thinking Vibrant for my mid muffler on the Hellcat. I did dynomax on the ScatPack and loved them but wanted to try something different
Thanks! It really just worked out that way on buying the products. I bought the Khaos kit before I even took delivery of my car (yeah, I've had it laying around THAT long lol). Then when I found out about the plugs I had to get them since I knew they'd let me completely remove the weight of the actuators/valves. Only one thing to do with the Khaos kit now, just trying to figure out how to do it, and I still have that extra zl1 addons jackpad too.
@@Scavenger1320 haha lots of giveaway items!
Great video!. I'm thinking about getting the Z automotive delete kit. Do you still have it installed?and has it thrown any codes over the past weeks since install?
I do still have them installed and plan on keeping them in. No problems and no codes at all since I filmed this vid. Thanks for watching!
I did this to my 5.7 no check engine light but that bad sound is still there 😢
Great content Chris! What a pain in the ass...lol I was going to get a new catback for my 2021 Challenger Scat, but I would imagine I will have to get this Mod so it doesn't throw a code. It sounds better in "inactive" version for sure. I seen a Scat owner using zip ties, not sure if I would trust that to hold the valves open.
I've seen people use zip ties too, I've seen melted plastic under cars too often to trust them, especially when put directly onto hot parts. It depends which catback system you want to get. A lot of them that are made specifically for these cars are made to address the inactive exhaust. Some will have their own valves built in to where you use the stock actuators, others will have a mechanical delete built-in.
@@Scavenger1320 Oh, ok Chris, I just need to find out the Active Delete function of whatever system I am looking at. Thanks!
Another great video. Question: is the active exhaust only for sound control, or does it also assist with low end torque or mpg during light cruising? Thank you!
As far as I know It's only for sound control.
That was me who did the free mod with no codes!! With it off it cracks louder at part throttle stabs because with it hooked up the valves move slow to fully open! It’s for noise pollution
Thought so. Tough to keep track of YT usernames with FB real names. I've seen some nasty replies before to your comments about doing it for free, so that was part of my motivation to try and video what happens. Thanks for reminding everyone about that, this video might have been a lot different otherwise.
Crazy detailed video, might try this paired with my mid muffler delete now just to decide which one to use
Thanks! It'll definitely open it up more when you're just cruisin around.
I've tried them all and the mechanical ones have caused nothing but problems. Either corrosion, component failure, or caused the valve to crap out. I have the Z-Automotive installed now and love it and now if anything goes wrong its just disconnect the plugs 5 minute job that simple.
I haven't heard of that before on the mechanical ones. Thanks for the info. I'm pulling the valves completely out so that's the main reason I love these Z Automotive plugs.
@@Scavenger1320 I think the weather in Canada on the West Coast was the main problem.
Please excuse me ignorance, why you want to do an active exhaust delete ? Is it for that extra rumble ? If yes, you can do a mid muffler delete and replace it with racebullets or vibrant, right?
Just for something extra at idle and low rpms, so that it sounds more like it does during a cold start. Even if you get the mid muffler delete or swap them, the valves are still there and active, so although it'll be louder overall, it'll still quiet itself down. In a later vid I did the free delete on a friend's car who did have the mid mufflers replaced because he didn't like how it was quieted down by the valves.
@@Scavenger1320 I wasn't expecting a quick reply and I truly appreciated that. Purchased a new Shaker and was looking into bump up the roar :) Very informative and thanks a ton. It was an excellent video.
@@geeksauthority nice! Congrats on the Shaker! Thanks for watching!
@@Scavenger1320thanks for this comment. I’ve got a mid muffler replacement with bottle resonators and I love the sound but I do wish it was a little louder at idle and low speeds so I hope going with the z automotive will make it how I want.
Excellent video just what I was looking for😎👍
Perfect! Thanks for watching!
You could also just remove the fuse that controls the active exhaust if you’re okay with having lights on on ur dash. Or you get a false fuse to fix that too.
Yeah, but if you have a 19 and up might as well just wire them open and not have a light at all. I honestly haven't heard of false fuses before though.
Does that work? How would I keep the valves open?
Can you tell the difference with it or not so much
It's not a huge difference, but I can definitely hear it when just driving around normally. It just has more of that growl all the time now
Thanks for sharing your video, maybe the next video you can have on extension cord wrapping LOL😂😂 just kidding, Thanks again
I don't know, extension cord wrapping can be a controversial topic, I don't want to start a war lol
The note is noticeably more aggressive in inactive mode for sure Chris! Mid Muff delete just sounds like crap, I did that in my 5.7 Shaker, and wasn't worth it to me, not doing it in my Scat.
Yeah, I'm not a big fan of the mid-muffler delete either.
I’m not a fan of mid delete either. I went with a mid replacement instead on my RT. I bought some bottle resonators from Amazon and put them in place of the mids and I love the sound. Makes it louder and makes a nice deep clean tone compared to deletes
Can't u just use the ztazer to just put engine mode to track and trick it open?
I haven't been able to verify that Track or Drag mode keeps them full open, although I do believe it does. I don't need a Tazer since it doesn't really give me much I don't already have, but also I save my Drag mode for the dragstrip only. It's rare for me to put it into Drag mode on the street. Plus if you have a 2019 or newer with the 6.4 or 6.2 there's no need to pay money for a Tazer when you can wire the active exhaust open for free. 2018s and older though that should work if you want to run in Track mode all the time.
I wired mine open in a similar way. Works great no problems.
Nice! glad to hear it worked for you too!
I used zip ties on mine and now I’m getting this loud ass noise it sounds like the valve is still attempting to open . Am I the only one getting that or do you as well? Thanks for reply .
Hey great video! Thank you! I have a 2018 Challenger RT and two days ago it started making a rattling noice on my right side muffler. Then, the engine light came out and I took it to autozone to scan it and got P121B. Any advice how or what I should do. I'm on a major budget right now. Thank you.
Definitely your active exhaust valve with that code. Having that code shouldn't hurt anything, just annoying. Short term if you at least want to get rid of the rattle you could always safety wire the valve open. It won't do anything for the codes so you'll still have the light but it won't cost anything. Then it depends on what's actually broken. A mechanical delete probably won't fix the code if it is a bad actuator. In that case it's either buy a new actuator, or for about the same price as one of those you can just get the Z Auto plugs that I used here.
I have check engine light on for my Active Exhaust , I ordered Z Automotive Active Exhaust Delete . Will this turn code off and fix rattling/Squeaky noise from valve once I plug in and wire valve open like you did ?
If the light is because of a bad actuator the plugs should take care of it. Squeaking should be gone too since the valves won't be moving. You shouldn't have to remove the actuators and wire the valves, unless the actuators aren't keeping the valves still and that's the rattling you might be hearing, in which case wiring them open should definitely get rid of any noise.
So you only need to buy 1 kit for 189 and that connects for both connectors? Or should I buy 2 for both
Yes, 1 kit has both connectors so just buy 1.
@@Scavenger1320 I just straight piped my scat today it’s an 18 so no track mode, I just ordeeeed the z connector will it take off the check engine light?
@@Miohelp yes, your light should go off. the Z Auto plugs trick the system into thinking the actuators/valves are working like they should.
Maybe this question was asked, I didn't go through the 300 plus comments, but why couldn't you just remove the spring from the actuator?
That’s literally one of the options I talk about in this vid. You still need to wire the valves open though otherwise they’ll just flop around
Did the free mod and still got a "P1217 code". I have a 2019 RT
Yeah, I don't know why but it doesn't work with the 5.7, only on 6.4s and Hellcats. Unfortunately I didn't know that at the time I made this vid otherwise I would have mentioned it.
Hey love the video thinking of getting this for my 2017 scat pack been getting this low squeal at around 38 mph and 68 mph do you think that this will help With the noise.
If that noise is from the active exhaust valves then doing the delete should definitely get rid of the squeak since it'll keep the valve in place.
Hey I have a question, when using the Z Automotive plugs how does the flap turn to open? Or do we have to turn them to open ourselves and they stay?
They're open already by default. Anytime your car is off they stay in the full open position, so when you install the plugs the actuator is open and then stays that way since it won't have any power going to it anymore.
Thanks I had the same question
I have a 2017 hellcat challenger and i have a CEL Code U1140 it’s for my right actuator valve, i was wondering would these z automotive plugs fix that issue, im also hearing a whistle like sound on heavy acceleration coming from the back right of my car
I have 2021, I wish I could see what the spring is doing after you shut off the engine. If I wanna keep the valve open, do I have to remove the spring? Does the spring turn back 270 or 90 or it stays and doesnt move back? Thanks..
When the engine is off the valve defaults to full open. That's why you didn't see it move in this vid after I shut it off, because when it spun closed during startup it immediately spun right back to the default full open and just stayed there. Here's another vid I did where I wired it open on a buddies car. You can see in it that since the valve defaults to open, after he shut off, all i did was unbolt the actuator, removed the spring, wired the valve to stay in the same position, and bolted the actuator back up. czcams.com/video/aDXoCybYRkQ/video.html
@@Scavenger1320 thanks a lot. Im gonna do it tomorrow.. 👍🏻
Great video!!! Bro I need those ramps asap lol
Thanks! Yeah, these ramps are awesome, definitely worth the cost. Easy to take with me to the track too.
@@Scavenger1320 I’m
Getting them bro!!! Much appreciated
Do these kits work on 2015 and up?
Yes they should. I know a lot of people with 2015s and up running all the various kits
How TF do you NOT have safety wires pliers If you were a CC? Me too 1993 - 2013.
Now that is a dam good question lol, and I don't really have a good answer for it. It does feel wrong that I don't have a set in my toolbox. Thanks for the full 20 years of service!
17 Daytona 392 can I do this on mine I changed actuators and code still comes back
The Z auto plugs should work for you. With them on it doesn’t even matter if the actuators are working or not
I put the remote control packs on and do away with the exhaust pipes. When its open it sits and growls and when you take off it sounds like a monster. If you see a cop close it down so it gets quiet.
After listening to your test drive comparison using my headphones. I heard a little more "bass". Not sure it's worth it. Some mufflers can make a difference. Thank you for your video.
In whom we have redemption through his blood, the forgiveness of sins, according to the riches of his grace
If you can do the free method I'd say it's definitely worth 'free' lol. I can see it not being worth paying for a delete kit, unless it's the Z Auto plugs so that you can get a completely different catback exhaust, or just remove it like I eventually did, or if one of your actuators go bad, in that case the Z Auto plugs would be cheaper than paying for a replacement actuator.
Does it matter which side you plug in the real and blank fuse?
No, it doesn't. Whichever side you put it on will work.
Have you had the actuators cut out and if you have had it had any cel codes come up from it
If you mean the valves then no, I haven't cut them out yet, they're just wired open. I did completely remove the actuators though which is why I ended up using the Z Automotive plugs instead of leaving the actuators plugged in and keeping the valves open for free. I haven't had any lights or codes pop up at all since I did this. And a couple of my friends that have done the free method haven't had any lights or codes either.
I purchase the zautomative inactivate exhaust for a 2020 Dodge Challenger rt 5.7 I didn’t install them on yet because I did the muffler delete and Resonator cut is inactive exhaust worth putting on 🤔
Hard to say without hearing it with the extra exhaust work and what it sounds like when the valves are closed. Might be loud enough as is, but if not it'll give you more sound for those times when you're just cruising along. That's where you'd hear the most difference. With a stock exhaust I know I definitely think it's worth it.
Thank you I’m try going to purchase some high flow Catalytic converts do you know a good pair to get
@@guyfisher1556 that I'm not sure of. I haven't looked into high flow cats. I used to have a Magnaflow one on my old Ram that I really liked, but that was a looong time ago lol
Ok thank you I’m just getting gone the stock catalytic converters I’m replacing everything with after market products
Will the free method work on a 2017 charger scat 6.4?
No, only on 2019s and up
I had a rattling exhaust clamp and my dealer said I will burn my servos u. Lol
Probably a dumb question but does this hurt the car at all? I love the sound when I’m sport mode and want it to sound that way all the time.
not dumb at all. It doesn't hurt anything at all. All this is doing is keeping the exhaust in a state thats within the normal range. If anything the exhaust flow being restricted with the valve closed would be whats hurtful, not that it is, just saying that would be more likely to cause issues than a more free flowing exhaust.
@@Scavenger1320 nice! Thanks for the response. I’m going to order the kit today!🙏🏽
Great video, learned alot
Thanks for watching!
When you put the z automotive part on, did you put the back part/with the spring back on? And where did you put the 2 extra pieces that you were wondering where they went.
I kept the actuators off which is why I ended up using the Z Auto plugs and still wired the valves open. Normally you wouldn't even have to remove the actuators to use the Z Auto plugs. Just unplug the wire from the actuator and install the Z Auto plugs and zip tie it out of the way. The actuator stays on with the spring which is what keeps the valve open. Then those 2 extra pieces plug into the actuator to act as a "protector" to keep the connections from corroding/getting dirty.
@@Scavenger1320 gotcha!! Thanks man!
@@Scavenger1320thanks for this explanation. I was really hoping I could do the free method but I guess I can’t with my 19 RT. I’ll go with the z automotive
Thanks for the info will be following you sir thank you again
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
hey man, nice vid. i was wondering if i could just take those actuators off and just wire tie the valves open. do i need to buy the inactive kit?
I missed your comment somehow, sorry about that. If you have a 19 and up with a 6.4 or Hellcat then you can, otherwise it'll cause the CEL to come on.
@@Scavenger1320 yup just did it at the shop a few days ago, i broke the left one off so i just wire tied it open and so far no code, i appreciate the answer though
Great video, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
If you have a 21 Hellcat, you dont need any of these. Unbolt the actuators without unpluging the wire, remove the springs, wire the flap open, bolt actuators back on and you are done. Exhaust fully open and no code.
Well, technically, one of "these" is needed since I show the free method too lol. I just haven't had any confirmations with Hellcats. I've only confirmed it works on all 19+ scats and that for some reason it doesn't work on the 5.7 cars.
@@Scavenger1320 I have a '21 Hellcat Redeye Charger. I tried just disconecting the wires and it threw a code, still had all 797HP though. I then saw another video on the methot I posted above and so far, about a week of driving now, and no code. YOU DONT NEED ANY OF THESE products if you have a 21 Hellcat. That video states it should work on SCATs too, but IDK. Hellcats Yes, I can confirm.
@@MaxMAX-et6lw right, one of the methods I show in this video is the exact same free method you mentioned. I made another video doing this same free method again on a buddy's 1320 too.
With the first method that you use with the wire, if I decided to go that route, where or what do I do with the actuator itself?
Just bolt the actuator back in place but without the spring and make sure to keep it plugged in. I did another vid where I did the free method on a friend's car too if you want to check that out. czcams.com/video/aDXoCybYRkQ/video.html
That's the same thought I had in my head, to remove the spring before bolting it back on....thank you for responding and thanks for the video as well sir.
Can you send a link to that wire you used to tie the valve please
This is the wire I used, but any safety wire from an auto parts store would work too. amzn.to/3wQiLKR
@@Scavenger1320 thanks, I tried using some wire I had but I couldnt get it to tie the way I wanted it. I ended up zip tieng the valve open with two zip ties for now in addition with the khaos motorsports delete.
Damn good video big guy
Thanks!
Great vid love those ramps they look taller then my cheap ones
Yeah, they're expensive but I have no regrets buying them. Thanks for watching!
on a 2020 Scat Pack, is there any reason why you can't just wire the valves open, and put the motors back on, still connected to the harness, but without the springs?
That's basically what I do and talk about in this vid. I used the Z Automotive plugs just so that I could completely remove the actuators and eventually the valves themselves, but before I installed them, I ran it like that with the actuators connected but not attached and I didn't get any codes. You can see what the actuators actually do at startup in this vid too.
What about that rattling sound?
what rattling sound?
I have a question so for the people who do the mid muffler delete the actual active exhaust valve is still closed or open right
The active exhaust valves sit about a foot or 2 behind the mid mufflers so they still keep working the same regardless what you do with the mids.
@@Scavenger1320 Sauce should I still do this mod and that would make it even louder or should I just leave it alone after the mid muffler delete
I would. It doesn't really make your exhaust any louder. It just gives you more of that cold start sound all the time. So the only time you might notice it being louder is when idling or cruising at low rpms since thats when the valves would normally be closed to quiet it down. When you're in track mode if you have it or at WOT the exhaust will sound exactly the same.
If every ounce matters you should have deleted the passenger seat:-) Did you get rear seat delete? Informative video though for a newbie Shaker owner. Oh yeah, which Race Ramps are those? The 67" XT? I'm sure my Rhino Ramps aren't going to work (can't test them as my son has one of his cars on em right now anyway).
I have a LOT more deleted than just that lol. My car is down to around 3620 pounds now. Check out my last vid from Horsepower Wars in Orlando. At one point in it I do a brief walk-around of my car showing what it looks like inside now
@@Scavenger1320 will do!
Hey question man ! I got a 2021 challenger 1320 ! Just installed corsa xtreme and hear a tiny rattle from the active valves ! I also want the active valves to stay open ! Do you think i will be good with just removing the springs and turning the valve to the ‘open’ position and then zip tien them down? You think i will get a check engine like all these other ppl are saying ? Once again 21 challenger 1320
The free method of removing the springs and wiring the valves open will work on your car. Just remember to leave the actuators plugged in. This works without causing a light on all 2019 and up scats and cats. The only cars it doesn’t work on is anything older than 2019 and all 5.7 cars no matter what year.
Hey update so i tried on my 21 challenger 1320 … will not work my active exhaust valve is different from what the video shows my valve thing inside the box that turns freely is not circle it is more a rectangle square has the 2 little slits && the active exhaust box itself does not have any holes for a zip tie or wire to run through ..lol i drilled 2 holes for a zip tie to go through but still would not work because i think the piece was more square than circle like others i see… odd i am going to have to settle with the z auto way didnt wanna pay that much but got no choice .. just a heads up and update 2021 challenger 1320 6.4l does not work
@@bigdaddybmoneyy So I just did a little bit of digging since I know people with 21 and up scats that had no issues, and I'm guessing the Corsa exhaust you got came with Corsa's own active valves, which although they reuse the stock actuators, the valve itself has a different design, and from what I've seen, fits your description exactly. Looking at the Corsa Extreme, I see they sell them where you can re-use the complete stock valves, which involves cutting them out of the stock system, and is therefore cheaper, or you can pay more to just get Corsa's valves where you don't have to chop up the stock cat-back.
Thank you for responding lol i will keep you updated brother
Hey one last thing … is it a big difference in exhaust sound in person in the 1320 ? I have a 1320 as well with a corsa xtreme would i notice a big difference?
Hello, I have to attach the flaps to the Z Automotive Inactive Plug Kit with wire or just close the plugs. LG from Germany
All you have to do is attach the plugs to the wire connectors. Leave the actuators and springs alone since they keep the valves in full open position when not powered up.
This may be a dumb question, coming back to this video. So if I get the active exhaust delete kit, will it waste more gas? Or will it be the same?
Not dumb at all. Mileage wouldn't be affected. If anything it might be a little better since the exhaust won't ever be restricted anymore by the valve. but if so it probably wouldn't be enough to even notice.
@@Scavenger1320 appreciate it!! And just to clear this up, any of these will delete the active exhaust rattle for good?!?
@@itriickkzhd666 they should. I think if there's rattle it's usually just the valve moving around. All the delete options keep the valve in one place so they should all stop that from happening.
@@Scavenger1320 ok thank you! Yeah my active exhaust rattles like crazy, it’s so annoying!! Sounds like a rattlesnake, I need to get rid of it asap!! I’m thinking ZAutomotive since it seems like the easiest & fastest way for a 2019 Charger
Great vid, but wondering if this will work on a 2015 392?
All the options should work except for the free method
Will the z automotive work on a 2019 charger RT Plus?
The Z Auto plugs should work no problem on that.
@@Scavenger1320 thank you for the response. I'll get me some. In regular mode only when I accelerate I hear a slight rasp sound on low rpms and smooths out as you go faster. When in sport mode you don't hear that noise at all. Seems to do it under pressure from acceleration. Exhaust shop said it's prolly from my exhaust valves and to start with deleting them.
This actually works on 2015 and up on dodge chargers challenger and chrysler 300s
All the options except the free method. Every 2018 and older that I know of that's tried the free method has thrown a code and had the light come on
Sounds good!
Thanks!
So i have a 19 Dodge Charger Scatpack w Catless Midpipes & Corsa Extreme would i still be able to do the free method ? And yes my corsa still has the valves
You should be able to since it's a 19. I'm guessing you still have the stock actuators so everything should work the same.
So is this like a mid muffler delete? Maybe it’s dumb question sorry.
Not dumb at all. This isn't going to make it louder like a mid muffler delete would. This only keeps the Active Exhaust valves fully open all of the time. At WOT the valves normally open up all the way, so the sound is identical with or without this delete. But when idling or just cruising along, the active valves close to quiet the exhaust down, so this delete prevents that. That's what you're gaining with this. Basically what I like to say is, you get that cold start sound all of the time since the valves also fully open up during cold starts.
@@Scavenger1320 yea I like that idea. I just ordered my scatpck and want a mid muffler delete but I got kids and don’t want the drone but I also want that deep sound so I’m looking at options. I saw somewhere on CZcams that you can do it where it’s a flick of a switch to do this also. Do you know what it’s called like electronic active exhaust that is controlled by a switch. Thank you for the information
@@buzzz6.4 I haven't been able to confirm it but putting it into "Track" mode is supposed to keep them open too. Some people don't like driving in that mode all of the time though. AFAIK there's nothing to control the active valves. There are electric cutouts that can be opened with a switch. But those dump the exhaust so they can be LOUD when open. One of the brands I see people get is called NoWeeds. I'm sure if you do a search on that there should be some vids.
I just bought my car last Sunday. I was surprised that it had a borla s type exhaust. I wanted to get the khaos kit but my wife said nope!!! You feel like sponsoring me the khaos kit?
I liked and subscribed
Congrats on the car! Thats awesome that it already had the Borla on it. I'm still trying to get sponsored on something myself! Lol. But, I will be doing a giveaway with the Khaos kit at some point in the future since I didn't use it and still have it.
@@mopar392ta3 thank you for that, I really appreciate it!
@@Scavenger1320 great content bro.
Great detailed video bro!
Thanks!
I have a 2019 challenger RT 5.7 and my car has always had a rattle with the active exhaust i assume. Got khaos deleted and and still hit with a nasty rattle on cold start. Ive fiddled and greased up all up in them thangs and nothing. Always rattles.
That sucks. Wonder if maybe there's an issue with the actual valve inside the exhaust pipe. That's the only thing that would really make sense with the valves being held in one position outside of the pipe. Best fix for that case would probably be to just get the Z Auto Plugs and cut the valves out entirely and straight pipe that portion.
Thanks for vid. Im throwing code on awe exhaust and wish to rectify it immediately. Hopefully this fixes the issue.
If the code is for active exhaust it should. Good luck and thanks for watching
WOW‼️You're really Mental about that weight reduction‼️✌😁👍
haha, yeah, I can get a bit carried away with it. I even make sure to only have my car key and no other keys or even a keyring on it when I'm racing. It's all for April 10th though!
I thought the tazer itself could keep the active exhaust open didn’t need to buy a separate kit
maybe, I'm honestly not sure. I have no reason to get a Tazer and from what I know of them, 19 and newer Scats don't really benefit much from them, so the plugs would still be a cheaper option. afaik though, I think the Tazer just unlocks modes like "Track" which keeps them open, but there's no setting specifically for the AES. I just looked through the user guide on Z Automotive's site for the Tazer and I didn't see any mention of the AES in the list of features it has.
Supporting you bro gonna browse ya channel fellow challenger owner💪🏾💯
I appreciate it!
Is there any reason why you shouldn’t just buy the tazer and leave track mode on 24/7? From my understanding track mode leaves the active exhaust valves completely opened. Does it not?
I haven't been able to verify if track mode leaves them full open but I think it does. Mine doesn't have track mode, just drag, which I'm sure also leaves them open, but I only like to use drag mode when I'm actually on the dragstrip. Nothing wrong with leaving it on all the time, but the way these cars "learn", I'd rather not have everyday driving affect the mode for when I need it most. A lot of people I know also don't like to drive in Track/Drag all the time.
@@Scavenger1320 do you know if the transmission mode affects the active exhaust valves? I can put on sport mode and I can make it so the drive mode transmission is normal even when in sport mode. Does that mean I get to drive the car and reap the benefits of driving in street mode (with eco mode) and I still get my active exhaust valves to be in “sport mode” ?
@@Little_Milk120 I honestly don't know with your setup. On mine the engine/trans are combined into one mode. Best is to try it out and see if you hear a difference.
Not much of a difference, but at least it's somewhat noticeable compared to normal.
Am using my computer though.
Somewhat noticeable is how I'd describe it too, at least through the video. I had to throw on some good headphones to really hear. It's a little more noticeable in real life but not by much. Although there are some moments where you can tell that exhaust is fully open, I'd say usually in the 2K rpm range.
What about a 2018 scat challenger?
On a 2018 it'll pop a code and throw the engine light on. You'll have to get either the mechanical delete or Z Auto plugs.
Well I just did it anyway to my 2018 6.4 and no check engine light came up!
@@jobiegarza5212 that's awesome! You're the first 2018 I've heard it didn't trip a light. I'm curious, is yours maybe a late 2018?? Just wondering why it worked 🤔
@@Scavenger1320 Im not sure.. but it’s a 2018 rt scat pack shaker, I tied it up with some hanging wire from Home Depot
So for the free version, you pretty much flipped the active exhaust & tied it so it won’t close?
No flipping needed. Just remove the spring and reattach the actuator same as it was after wiring the flap. Here's another vid I did of just the free method on a buddies Challenger that might be a little clearer. czcams.com/video/aDXoCybYRkQ/video.html
and just in case anyone is TUNED ask your tuner to turn off the code for them and then you can cut them off !
Yes! I forgot to mention that. Thanks!
Is it any reason cutting actuator out with taxer plug would trip cel light
If you get the Z automotive plugs you can do whatever you want with the actuators and no CEL light will come on. Leave them in, take them off, cut off the valves. It gives you all those options. As soon as I go to the exhaust shop I'll definitely have them cut out the valves on mine.
Hey bro I have a quick question im getting codes u113 & u1140 on my 2018 daytona an the dealer is telling me basically its from me straight piped the exhaust so it's receiving alot of back pressure you think this will help far as removing CEL & the back pressure by keeping the vavles open?
Sounds like your dealer doesn't know what they're talking about honestly. Those codes are saying there's something wrong with the active exhaust actuators and has absolutely nothing to do with any kind of back pressure. Did you leave the active exhaust valves and actuators in place and keep them connected? If you did check all of the connectors. A bad connector, or damaged wiring would stop the computer from communicating with the actuators which would cause those codes. Doing this active delete won't fix that until you find out what's causing it. If the actuators themselves are bad the Z Auto plugs would be a fix, but if its a connector/wiring issue none of these active exhaust delete options would do anything.
@@Scavenger1320 thanks bro! Appreciate your response an if you where referring to keeping them connected when I had it straight piped I believe so but like you said I will check the connectors & wiring first an if that's all good an it is the actuators I'll invest in the Z plugs! Thanks man!
I’m having the same codes on my Daytona. Did you find the problem?
did the CEL light up and throw a p121B or a p1217 code ?
Nope, it never did. Actuators just stayed in the default full open position after they do their startup check. I'll be doing the free method on a buddies 2019 this weekend too.
I just added the z automotive to my 2015 challenger 392 and still doing the rattle. Do I need to remove the actuators like you did?
What kind of wire you use?
@@rudypopoca3415 yeah, that's what I would try if there was a rattle. Maybe the actuator has a little play in it so wiring the valve open might keep it in place better
@@rudypopoca3415 any kind of metal wire would work. I just happened to have a roll of 22 gauge green craft wire laying around and used that.
Don’t agree with active exhaust delete and mid muffler delete. Replace mid muffler with vibrants and go to sport mode. It will be sweet sounding. If you want loud and raspy go ahead and mod to your hearts extent
I get not liking the mid muffler delete as that changes the sound and it’s not for everyone. I’m honestly not a fan of it either. But why be against the active delete? All it does is keep the full sound of the exhaust in all modes. And if going to Sport mode opens them up and is sweet sounding why not have sweet sounding all the time lol. But also my car didn’t have a Sport mode
@@Scavenger1320 good thoughts. Not against it. I’m an older dude who likes the sweet sound I have now. The great thing is so many options to keep your mind occupied. Love molar over all the rest
Wondering your thoughts.. I seen you went to the track.. I haven't even done that in my 20 scat .. hve under 1500 miles only . Went on a coast trip.. got on her a bit .. but no burnouts or anything.. etc.. now she sounds like shit.. like I blew my ex. Mani. Gaskets . Or that hemi tick 🤔 idk.. but from one day to the next she aint sounding like she did.. kinda bummed at the moment. . That .. she couldn't handle a few getty ups.. any thoughts .. my man. ? I hope its exhaust.. but I hear it at cold start & anytime.. .. I was gonna spray soap water on my manifolds. . & hope its that... weird though. One thing I did notice as well was the exhaust popping on cold start. Never did before I got on it.. but I think its cuz. All the exhaust got fully broken in on that trip.
Either way she sounds like crap.. dont like it.. & do you hear anythingfrom your 1320? Lemmeknow 🙏 your thoughts
Hard to say without hearing it. I once had a work truck that all of a sudden sounded like someone cut off the exhaust and it was running open manifolds, I figured it was an exhaust leak, but turned out one of the cylinders blew a spark plug completely out. But that was a ford v-10, just bringing it up as an example of a time something sounded like exhaust but was something else. It sounds like its probably exhaust related but you never know.
Being new with that low mileage, I'd take it in to the dealer for a warranty issue. If it sounds that bad, they should hear it right away, and if not, tell them to find another 392 on the lot and start it up side by side with yours. Just getting on it shouldn't cause any issues like that, and if it started doing it because you did, then whatever the problem is was already there and would of come out eventually regardless.
My 1320 sounds perfect to me, and my first time at the drag strip I only had around 700 miles on it. I just passed 1500 miles and have made 14 passes down the 1/4 mile so far, plus I don't drive her easy either.
@@Scavenger1320 appreciate 🙏 cha bud.. definitely taking her in.. thx for da great response👍 & idea
So I have a 17 5.7 Rt and I have my codes on and I’m trying to get them off so I can pass emissions … can you help ?
Only option for 5.7s and pre-2019s is to buy one of the active exhaust delete kits. Free option won't work on those without causing codes to pop up.
Bro awesome vid. Well explained. Super cool personality. 😎 Will subscribe 😁💯💯💯💯💯
Thank you! I really appreciate that!
On the free method,(2019+), couldn't ya just secure the valve open, then just reassemble it leaving the springs out??? Get back with a reply, okay?
Yes, that's exactly what I did in this other vid on a friends car. czcams.com/video/aDXoCybYRkQ/video.html. I only used the Z Auto plugs on mine because I wanted to completely remove the actuators, and eventually the valves themselves too, and probably the entire exhaust 😆
Thank you.😁
Great video
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Thanks! 👊