Definitely hone and replace rings on all cylinders if you are that deep into it. They might have been using ether because it was hard to start due to compression issues.
Jesse the final drives you mention are not final drives at all. There is no oil to change in them or any way to disengage them so the machine can be towed. They are just hydraulic motors, they are not planetaries like you are thinking. As for the thought on the ether causing the precup to fall out. It is extremely unlikely that this is the case, especially seeing that there is no damage in any of other cylinders. The most likely thing is the injector having a bad pattern over heating the chamber.
So to freewheel these hydraulic motors, he would just have to remove the endcaps on the hoses so the oil can move and does not lock up the motors? And if you are in the field and the machine breaks down, i would hope that you can set the drive pump or valves into a freewheel position to drag the machine on a trailer and into the shop without having to dig deep into the machine to disconnect the motors.
@JesseMuller The chunk was able to fit through to the oil pan because someone has had that engine disassembled previously and it fell through. Glad you have the inclination and funding to complete this repair because someone was obviously trying to scam someone with a dead engine that would require a complete rebuild.
Sir, respect! You are the first yoububer that collected the oily watter. Ive seen so many videos like yours, pressure washing on the ground. @Ants Pants pressure washed his tractor near a stream of water.
You Sir are a BEAST !!!! WOW I am so glad I found your channel... your edits are awesome and the amount of info you put in your videos makes me want to tear down my skid steer engine just to see whats on the inside...
Nothing nowadays are built to last. They want you to just go out and buy a newdoing they design it to make it difficult to work on, so to discourage you from doing such a thing. Love your content Jesse keep up the great work. Happy New Year.
Hello, in my opinion this is a material defect or quality defect. Such damage should not happen to such an engine or such an expensive machine. respect the repair. greetings from Germany
might as well pull the other pistons out hone those bores and put new rings in them too u might as well your in it this deep just fix anything that could be an issue later like replacing front and rear main seals too
I don't recommend doing what I call a one cylinder overhaul. Even with replacing the cylinder head. The degree of difficulty determines whether you short cut things. With you having to remove the engine to tear it down, go ahead and replace the rings in all the cylinders and rod bearings in all the cylinders. If one of the main bearing in the cap looks good, you might can get by. If either front or rear seal looks iffy, replace those too. That's my rule of thumb on short cuts. Wish you well..
Working on JCB telehandlers makes you question your own life sometimes. The injection pump sits at the back of the engine, you have to take out the engine just to replace the pump. And these pumps are notorious for scoring and breaking. You should also at least check/replace all the rings of the other pistons while you are at it, if they used a lot of ether then the walls will be very smooth and the chances of sticking rings will be higher in the future. Give them a quick hone and replace the rings, also clean the ring grooves with a brass brush. Normally, I'd go oversize on the bore with new pistons, but I can understand that you dont want to spend the money.
Acid to clean aluminum out of cylinder. Bearing failure from extreme pressure/shock load. Check con rod journal for roundness along with crank. Trying running cleaners threw oil gallies before assembly n try cleaning everything inside good.. Excellent job
Jesse, I worked in the hydraulic industry for many years in my younger years much has changed in the past 20 years, since I have been retired but one thing that hasn`t changed is having hose identification location markings the best method I found was a set of letter and number stamps, saving the colored ties for places you can`t get in to stamp a number.
Před 5 měsíci+10
There's possibly some debris in the oil drain tube causing the slow oil drain. Excellent videos. You've got great intuition.
Excellent progress. If you put an old bed sheet on the ground it will catch and filter out chunks of grease when powerwashing outside. Bronze braze the hole in the turbo by the time the repair fails it will need a new turbo anyway.
I helped disassemble our top drive completely to change out the main bearing and by the end we were putting 3-4 different colors on connections lol. Hydraulic systems are just tedious
With that much water in what looked like very old oil you could be circulating water droplets throughout the engine. The small steam explosions can cause erosion of the bearing surfaces and friction on the pistons and rings. That heavy sludge would also be sending particles past the filter and the cumulative effect is wear and a lot of it if it plugs the filter and the oil is bypassing the filtering element completely. Most oil filters are not designed to deal with water that well as it is not supposed to be there. A check of the oil passages in the block is a good idea. Cooling passages as well. If some of them are restricted the head temperatures may be high which would also contribute to the problem. All that together may have got the head hot enough to loosen the pre combustion chamber. A cascade effect for sure. Good video.
I think that's true, just like their 'home' manufacturing automobile industry, it's gone because of the literal garbage they manufactered, I had friends that had British cars, who had nothing good to say about them and would never buy their vehicles again.
Wow it doesn’t get any easier for you .I have learned a lot from your videos.Thank you for sharing everything with us.I love how you always have time for your kids. They love you so much you’re a good father.Ed from Mich
Electric fuel pumps are often added to diesel engines because the mechanical pump only works when cranking. If an injector leaks the engine might have to crank for a long time to fill the fuel system. It also makes bleeding the system easier when changing filters or when the machine is run out of fuel.
Generally, those are not final drives but drive motors. They are lubricated by hydraulic fluid. There is also a smaller hydraulic line to each drive unit that supplies fluid pressure to release the "brakes". You could potentially pressurize those lines with a port o power pump and it should roll. Alternatively you could remove the track and roll on the idler and bogeys. Pull it out and push it back in.
I know bobcats have an additional oil that has to be changed on their drive motors. Its just one tapered roller bearing inside that the hydraulic oil doesn't get to. It's an oil that gets overlooked a lot!
I would recommend changing all the rings and bearings in all the cylinders, as it would bring peace of mind, and since you already have them out, it's a good opportunity to do so.
I would change all the pistons rings while you are there, for sure. Remove carbon on top of cylinders wall to prevent scratching pistons when you remove them and planning to reuse it. By the way, always protect the crankshaft from honing grit while honing cylinders. You will contaminate the New Rod bearings not doing it. Clean every thing well.
I had a year 2000 Opel/Vauxhall Frontera which was sold in America as a Honda passport, It had a 2.0 Isuzu diesel engine in it, due to an airlocked cooling system(a frequent problem) it overheated and cracked the combustion chamber in the head and it came loose, here they fitted a new one and reskimmed the head no problem at all and a damn sight cheaper than a new cast iron head, It happened at about 100k miles, It had almost 300k miles when I sold it and was still running fine.
You guys are amazing , a concrete house, a wonder kitchen and pulling a engine in the most unfriendly difficult engines and never giving up. You are right Jesse they should fire the people who made such a mess.Best of luck to you all.
Considering the amount of time and effort thats gone into removing the engine ,the consensus of comments in favour of a bottom end overhaul and your editing out of your brothers bottom end I do believe a bottom end overhaul is prudent.
Like you mentioned Jesse there’s a varst majority of people think that ether the only way to start a stubborn engine that will not run, Using that in the engine gets addicted to like a drug and causing untold damage to the components , Then it will not start at all without using starter fluid, Also using cheap parts like the fuel pump you mentioned, To many second rate equipment all seem to made in china and make its way everywhere around the world. 🇮🇪🇬🇧 Great show which I never miss.
At my old age, and being so forgetful, I don't feel like any advice from me would help. I have heard that you can put hydraulic pressure to the right line and it will free up the tracks as its hydraulic pressure on startup that frees those tracks like say the John Deere dozers or Cat dozers now days. All electric over hydraulic pressure solenoids, I spelled it wrong, but someone maybe like Clint at C&C equipment may know or at least let you know. Area Diesel service sometimes is a great help also as they seem to go out of their way to help in situations like this. Sounds strange yet there are good folks out there that do care. Looking forwards to this being a working machine. Sounds as though your not going to make a access hole through the bottom or maybe just to the oil drain.
Jesse ,I think I would pull the other pistons out and have a look at the rings . I would also change the bearing inserts and verify the crank oil gullies aren't full of crud . If the starter is hard to get to when it's back together you may want to have a look at the brushes and replace them if needed . Man, that was a lot of work to get the engine out. Happy New Year to you and yours!
I am a journeyman mechanic and I've had four apprentices. And you really show excellent working skills and can actually feel something before it breaks very uncommon nowadays. Great work looking really really good. Good to see you got a Helper, and it's all coming together!!! All the best from Surrey BC Canada
Jesse, next time you see a phone company doing a big underground repair get a 2 foot piece of their 100 pair phone cable. I still have five 6” sections just for pulling multiple hydraulic lines and mostly used it on swivel blocks on boom trucks/lifts, its 50 common colored pairs of wires in those cables which lets you put a color to the fitting and hose plus you can leave them or take them off to reuse. I always left them on because they are about the size of a twist tie on a bag of bread. 30-55 gallon drum split in half with a cheap RV water pump hooked to the 3/4 bung in the barrel can be slid under the machine then one can man the pump switch to pump it into another barrel, the bung is high enough to let bulky items stay inn the pan and you can just pump water/oil. We welded another bung half way up the lid above the original one for heavy cleaning jobs with a lot of debris.
C&C showed a trick to loosen hose fittings with a air hammer and it really works to break them loose faster. Just impact the side of the fittings and then they come off fast with a wrench. Fyi
I think u should replace rings on all four pistons and hone all the bores replace all bearings including mains that would be a good balance on the hole engine....as for the pre combustion cups in the head well it's a common problem on those engines your theory could be right but they are pressed into the head and I think the tolerance was not watt it should've been in manufacturing those engines are in alot of things watt u don't hear much about anyways good luck look forward to your next video...
You can take my advice or please yourself. If that was my machine I would pull all pistons and check them to ensure the rings are not stuck like the damaged one. Replace all rings and hone all cylinders. Also check the main bearings as they could also be bad. Replace mains and big end bearing. Good job on what you have done to date. Cheers Stew.
It was nice to see you really clean one of these machines for a change... I mean, you gotta spend your time where you get the best return on it, so I understand when you don't spend so much time cleaning, but it's still nice to see. I wonder if you'll repaint that block? I really enjoy these uploads. You are going to have a nice little machine when you are done with this project. Thanks for sharing this with us.
This machine definitely needed more than the eye could tell. Thanks for another great video. Just a note, Cold water works just as well as hot. A little degreaser goes a long way once you get the bulk of it taken care of. I worked for a guy that did pressure washing for a living and he did everything others do with hot water with cold water. No expensive chemicals except the one time we did a driveway that a motor was rebuilt on and decided to put degreaser down to help penetrate and break it up to save time. He did restaurants with cold water. I do it myself now. But doesn't matter, you got it cleaned up regardless of the method. That's what matters. Have a happy new year! Can't wait to see more this coming year.
Reminds me of working on european transversal engines, better to yank them out instead of fumbling around in quite tight spaces... Thx for showing, Happy New Year! 👍👍👍
Another great equipment save. Congrats Jesse. Now's your chance to create that access panel under the engine you talked about. And oh, by the way, my wife kept 'telling' you to get a few bottles of Dawn dish washing liquid to pour all over the engine compartment and let it soak before pressure washing. Keep up the good work.
You need to pull all the pistons and hone the cylinder walls , and check the the clearance on the main bearings, it looks like they did not do good maintain on the engines and ran very dirty oil and possibly ran it out of oil to have rod bearings look that bad. Also on the turbo charger send it to area diesel and have them check it out fully, they have better prices than most part stores. Atomisers are not injectors, the injection pump controls the injection. Also look on the final drive, is the round hole in the center of the final drive is it threaded? If it is thread a bolt in to engage the drive gear. That hole if threaded should allow you to insert a bolt to depress a piston that disengage the drive gear. You do not have to remove the track and the track gear to take the final drive apart to disengage or to remove the drive gear to freewheel. I know someone that uses jcb equipment and loves them, he like British equipment and JCB is a British company who just happens to have an assembly plant in savannah Georgia. He said to check the center hole in the final drive as you are looking at it from the track side. You know some skid steers have a cap on the final drives that are bolted on, that has a bump out on them, you remove the cap and turn it over and it allowed the tracks or wheels to free wheel. My friend said jcb uses a bold to do that.
love the videos. had a 1991 Saab 2.2 motor dohc motor had 4 cams. motor drop a value guide . put a hole in piston head was junk . later found out that the block was cracked at the top of cylinder. it beat the aluminium piston so hard swell the piston in the cylinder bore.
Coolant probably got down the oil passages when you pulled the head. Probably got down through the hole in the piston, too. Pretty normal. Overheating can cause the head to drop inserts, similar situation with valve seats.
Dang that was a lot of unplugging and recapping. This macine in general was a mess. Whom ever you bought this from looks, from the condition of this machine, that he never took good care of it at all, and just all the dirt and crap that was in the body shows that. Your explanation and care of takeing this all apart, cleaning everything up and then moving forward to repair/ replace things to put it all back to together is so much more than the last owner ever did. Look forward to Part 3 od this, and Hope you and your family had a great Christmas, and have a great 24 as well. See ya on the next one..
I have seen on VW Diesel engines that when the timing belt breaks or somehow there is piston to vale contact that not only will the valve be bent but the same can be true for the connecting rod from the impact. Measure the piston protrusion at TDC to see if they are all the same. You'll have to check the new piston and rings with the old rod and new rod bearings to get the answer. A bit of work to do this but with uneven compression in a cylinder you'll have an unstable engine speed at idle. I have been a fan of your for years and you never disappoint! All the Best in 2024! G.
Jesse, You embody the sentiment in a Frank O'Hara poem. The gist of the poem goes, "There is nothing to it except to do it." Your willingness to dive all the way into the deep end is very impressive and inspirational. I worry more about not getting it all back together as I'm taking it apart.
Jesse, I love your videos. I have used a very small amount of controlled muriatic acid to disolve the aluminum piston on steel cylinder walls. Keep up the great videos.
Wish we lived close to each other. You and me would be good friends. Pretty much do the same kinda stuff. Great work on the videos. It’s hard enough to do the work on it in tight cramped up spaces. Let alone filming it. Cheers. 🍻. Also. It’s truly ridiculous that the engineers didn’t leave enough room to be able to remove the pump or the motor separately!!
You should cut an access hole in bottom skid plate also, and make it removable! You’re right, JCB has no engineering skills at all by the way it’s designed! Good luck brother, hopefully you’ll actually get it going again! Doesn’t look good for you, seems like bad design on a lot of this thing! That piston looks bad and bad design, what does JCB even stand for? When I saw it the first time I thought it was a knockoff version of a JOHN DEERE! lol 😂 Good luck with it Mr. Mueller, y’all stay safe and warm up there! Looks like we’re in the cold rainy weather season! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hey Jess. that's just unbelievable how all that damage from that small bit of tin, but really it's down to abysmal designe on the part of the idiot who put that plug into the pre combustion chamber, the manufacturer should have to pay for that repair!. Bob..UK
I would. Uy something off of you all day. You have tought me so much to look forward to thing in what I’m buying. And I know that if you had something to sell it would be well gone through and fixed.
Ahhh I saw the thumbnail and saw a JCB skid. I got nightmares again. Get it working and sell that think fast. A few compiled long stories short, came down to a bad main hydraulic pump, special order only from UK to US and it was on backorder. Crazy money. Can’t match up with anything in the US due to special fit, tapered shaft with CCW rotation or something. Many simpler parts on JCBs are very proprietary.
I watched video #1 and recently started wondering what you had done. Today I watched a dirt Perfect video "Trip to local junk auction never disappoints" . At 16:15 he talks about a JCB 225 T power boom. He loves the design but won't look at one because of the electronic problems. I found this interesting. I really like the way you investigate before you start your projects and take your time to do things right.
I don’t have any diagnostic skills, but I will not through parts at a machine either. I have a forklift here I’m trying to get going but working on slowly. Your videos are definitely worth watching Cheers
Nice work Jesse the way the rod bearing got pounded at least get the one rod resized with stock rod bearing polish crank Journal with finest emery all the best measure for roundness spec over all your projects are amazing very hard worker great helpers and family
Really appreciate your text overlays explaining some of what we are seeing. It is also helpful for those of us who can't spend a full hour watching but come back 2-3 times in order to finish your videos. Great work and content as usual Jesse. Been a long time subscriber and it has been great to see how far along you have come with your channel. Here's to a great 24 for you and your family.
@jesse muller👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍. The major point to watch your videos is that I love people who are great mechanics and bring projects to an end. So I wish you all the best and to you and your family a great start in the next year 2024. with best wishes 👍😎🇩🇪
Quite a project. Many things to disconnect and then repair and reconnect. Can't wait for the next video.
Sam
When i lived in England, i had never even put flip flops on my feet lol. But, now i live in Texas , so its an everyday thing during the summer 😊
Blurring out plumber's butt...hilarious.
Oh my god Jesse, I think I would have set fire to it. Your patience and perseverance is astounding.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Definitely hone and replace rings on all cylinders if you are that deep into it. They might have been using ether because it was hard to start due to compression issues.
Couldn't agree more! Your that deep in do all 4 cyl. With a ball hone to produce a good cross hatch
Jesse the final drives you mention are not final drives at all. There is no oil to change in them or any way to disengage them so the machine can be towed. They are just hydraulic motors, they are not planetaries like you are thinking.
As for the thought on the ether causing the precup to fall out. It is extremely unlikely that this is the case, especially seeing that there is no damage in any of other cylinders. The most likely thing is the injector having a bad pattern over heating the chamber.
So to freewheel these hydraulic motors, he would just have to remove the endcaps on the hoses so the oil can move and does not lock up the motors? And if you are in the field and the machine breaks down, i would hope that you can set the drive pump or valves into a freewheel position to drag the machine on a trailer and into the shop without having to dig deep into the machine to disconnect the motors.
@JesseMuller The chunk was able to fit through to the oil pan because someone has had that engine disassembled previously and it fell through. Glad you have the inclination and funding to complete this repair because someone was obviously trying to scam someone with a dead engine that would require a complete rebuild.
Jesse, it’s the small things… the pat crack blur.. perfection 😂
Loving this rebuild - warts and all! Speaking of which - THANK YOU for preserving Pat's dignity and my retinas at 46:00 - great editing skills.
Sir, respect! You are the first yoububer that collected the oily watter. Ive seen so many videos like yours, pressure washing on the ground. @Ants Pants pressure washed his tractor near a stream of water.
You Sir are a BEAST !!!! WOW I am so glad I found your channel... your edits are awesome and the amount of info you put in your videos makes me want to tear down my skid steer engine just to see whats on the inside...
What a total mess. You guys have grit and brains. The BEST!!! Happy New Year!!!🎉❤🎉❤🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Nothing nowadays are built to last. They want you to just go out and buy a newdoing they design it to make it difficult to work on, so to discourage you from doing such a thing. Love your content Jesse keep up the great work. Happy New Year.
Hello, in my opinion this is a material defect or quality defect. Such damage should not happen to such an engine or such an expensive machine. respect the repair.
greetings from Germany
might as well pull the other pistons out hone those bores and put new rings in them too u might as well your in it this deep just fix anything that could be an issue later like replacing front and rear main seals too
Valid point
Yes that's a sensible thing to do, I do always...the engine has obviously been neglected, poor maintenance....
I don't recommend doing what I call a one cylinder overhaul. Even with replacing the cylinder head. The degree of difficulty determines whether you short cut things. With you having to remove the engine to tear it down, go ahead and replace the rings in all the cylinders and rod bearings in all the cylinders. If one of the main bearing in the cap looks good, you might can get by. If either front or rear seal looks iffy, replace those too. That's my rule of thumb on short cuts. Wish you well..
Working on JCB telehandlers makes you question your own life sometimes. The injection pump sits at the back of the engine, you have to take out the engine just to replace the pump. And these pumps are notorious for scoring and breaking.
You should also at least check/replace all the rings of the other pistons while you are at it, if they used a lot of ether then the walls will be very smooth and the chances of sticking rings will be higher in the future.
Give them a quick hone and replace the rings, also clean the ring grooves with a brass brush. Normally, I'd go oversize on the bore with new pistons, but I can understand that you dont want to spend the money.
Acid to clean aluminum out of cylinder.
Bearing failure from extreme pressure/shock load.
Check con rod journal for roundness along with crank.
Trying running cleaners threw oil gallies before assembly n try cleaning everything inside good..
Excellent job
Jesse, I worked in the hydraulic industry for many years in my younger years much has changed in the past 20 years, since I have been retired but one thing that hasn`t changed is having hose identification location markings the best method I found was a set of letter and number stamps, saving the colored ties for places you can`t get in to stamp a number.
There's possibly some debris in the oil drain tube causing the slow oil drain. Excellent videos. You've got great intuition.
Your brother forgot how many people watch this... ❤😂 prechamber souvenirs
The E in JCB stands for "Easy to work on"
Now the engine is out you can do some redesign things to the bottom for service purposes 👍👏👊💪. B2W, nice video 👍. Happy & healthy 2024 🥂🍾
Excellent progress. If you put an old bed sheet on the ground it will catch and filter out chunks of grease when powerwashing outside. Bronze braze the hole in the turbo by the time the repair fails it will need a new turbo anyway.
I helped disassemble our top drive completely to change out the main bearing and by the end we were putting 3-4 different colors on connections lol. Hydraulic systems are just tedious
With that much water in what looked like very old oil you could be circulating water droplets throughout the engine. The small steam explosions can cause erosion of the bearing surfaces and friction on the pistons and rings. That heavy sludge would also be sending particles past the filter and the cumulative effect is wear and a lot of it if it plugs the filter and the oil is bypassing the filtering element completely. Most oil filters are not designed to deal with water that well as it is not supposed to be there. A check of the oil passages in the block is a good idea. Cooling passages as well. If some of them are restricted the head temperatures may be high which would also contribute to the problem. All that together may have got the head hot enough to loosen the pre combustion chamber. A cascade effect for sure. Good video.
OH YEAH!! THANKS for blurring out the Mariana Trench 🤣🤣🤣🤙🏼❤️
get the man a belt!
JCBs in Europe have the reputation of buy new, use until broken and replace. They are not built to last...
I think that's true, just like their 'home' manufacturing automobile industry, it's gone because of the literal garbage they manufactered, I had friends that had British cars, who had nothing good to say about them and would never buy their vehicles again.
@@frederickmoller Land/Range Rovers are the epiphany of unreliability in Europe.
Wow it doesn’t get any easier for you .I have learned a lot from your videos.Thank you for sharing everything with us.I love how you always have time for your kids. They love you so much you’re a good father.Ed from Mich
Electric fuel pumps are often added to diesel engines because the mechanical pump only works when cranking. If an injector leaks the engine might have to crank for a long time to fill the fuel system. It also makes bleeding the system easier when changing filters or when the machine is run out of fuel.
Generally, those are not final drives but drive motors. They are lubricated by hydraulic fluid. There is also a smaller hydraulic line to each drive unit that supplies fluid pressure to release the "brakes". You could potentially pressurize those lines with a port o power pump and it should roll. Alternatively you could remove the track and roll on the idler and bogeys. Pull it out and push it back in.
I know bobcats have an additional oil that has to be changed on their drive motors. Its just one tapered roller bearing inside that the hydraulic oil doesn't get to. It's an oil that gets overlooked a lot!
I would recommend changing all the rings and bearings in all the cylinders, as it would bring peace of mind, and since you already have them out, it's a good opportunity to do so.
I would change all the pistons rings while you are there, for sure. Remove carbon on top of cylinders wall to prevent scratching pistons when you remove them and planning to reuse it.
By the way, always protect the crankshaft from honing grit while honing cylinders. You will contaminate the New Rod bearings not doing it. Clean every thing well.
Just finished working on my own machine and now I can sit back and relax watching Jesse work his magic, love these videos man
I had a year 2000 Opel/Vauxhall Frontera which was sold in America as a Honda passport, It had a 2.0 Isuzu diesel engine in it, due to an airlocked cooling system(a frequent problem) it overheated and cracked the combustion chamber in the head and it came loose, here they fitted a new one and reskimmed the head no problem at all and a damn sight cheaper than a new cast iron head, It happened at about 100k miles, It had almost 300k miles when I sold it and was still running fine.
It’s so cool to watch and hear common sense.
I really appreciate jesse's videos and that he shows everything, the whole struggle. not just breeze over it and its done. great work. thank you.
You guys are amazing , a concrete house, a wonder kitchen and pulling a engine in the most unfriendly difficult engines and never giving up. You are right Jesse they should fire the people who made such a mess.Best of luck to you all.
Considering the amount of time and effort thats gone into removing the engine ,the consensus of comments in favour of a bottom end overhaul and your editing out of your brothers bottom end I do believe a bottom end overhaul is prudent.
I would add a 3" hole under the oil drain plug. And the cover on four press nuts. It is more convenient to wash and change oil.
Like you mentioned Jesse there’s a varst majority of people think that ether the only way to start a stubborn engine that will not run, Using that in the engine gets addicted to like a drug and causing untold damage to the components , Then it will not start at all without using starter fluid, Also using cheap parts like the fuel pump you mentioned, To many second rate equipment all seem to made in china and make its way everywhere around the world. 🇮🇪🇬🇧 Great show which I never miss.
double up colors and or multi color you will have plenty ..
At my old age, and being so forgetful, I don't feel like any advice from me would help. I have heard that you can put hydraulic pressure to the right line and it will free up the tracks as its hydraulic pressure on startup that frees those tracks like say the John Deere dozers or Cat dozers now days. All electric over hydraulic pressure solenoids, I spelled it wrong, but someone maybe like Clint at C&C equipment may know or at least let you know. Area Diesel service sometimes is a great help also as they seem to go out of their way to help in situations like this. Sounds strange yet there are good folks out there that do care. Looking forwards to this being a working machine. Sounds as though your not going to make a access hole through the bottom or maybe just to the oil drain.
Very satisfying video seeing it get cleaned.
Jesse ,I think I would pull the other pistons out and have a look at the rings . I would also change the bearing inserts and verify the crank oil gullies aren't full of crud . If the starter is hard to get to when it's back together you may want to have a look at the brushes and replace them if needed .
Man, that was a lot of work to get the engine out.
Happy New Year to you and yours!
I am a journeyman mechanic and I've had four apprentices. And you really show excellent working skills and can actually feel something before it breaks very uncommon nowadays. Great work looking really really good. Good to see you got a Helper, and it's all coming together!!!
All the best from Surrey BC Canada
Slurrey, Woot Woot!
Blurring the plumbers crack was appreciated😁
Jesse, next time you see a phone company doing a big underground repair get a 2 foot piece of their 100 pair phone cable. I still have five 6” sections just for pulling multiple hydraulic lines and mostly used it on swivel blocks on boom trucks/lifts, its 50 common colored pairs of wires in those cables which lets you put a color to the fitting and hose plus you can leave them or take them off to reuse. I always left them on because they are about the size of a twist tie on a bag of bread.
30-55 gallon drum split in half with a cheap RV water pump hooked to the 3/4 bung in the barrel can be slid under the machine then one can man the pump switch to pump it into another barrel, the bung is high enough to let bulky items stay inn the pan and you can just pump water/oil. We welded another bung half way up the lid above the original one for heavy cleaning jobs with a lot of debris.
C&C showed a trick to loosen hose fittings with a air hammer and it really works to break them loose faster. Just impact the side of the fittings and then they come off fast with a wrench. Fyi
I think u should replace rings on all four pistons and hone all the bores replace all bearings including mains that would be a good balance on the hole engine....as for the pre combustion cups in the head well it's a common problem on those engines your theory could be right but they are pressed into the head and I think the tolerance was not watt it should've been in manufacturing those engines are in alot of things watt u don't hear much about anyways good luck look forward to your next video...
Been waiting!!! Coffees on!! Here we go!! lov it!! Cheers!;-)!
You can take my advice or please yourself. If that was my machine I would pull all pistons and check them to ensure the rings are not stuck like the damaged one. Replace all rings and hone all cylinders. Also check the main bearings as they could also be bad. Replace mains and big end bearing. Good job on what you have done to date. Cheers Stew.
Jessy doesn't seem to be afraid to take on any job. That's what separates the men from the boys. For most guys that's what stops us, fear??
It was nice to see you really clean one of these machines for a change... I mean, you gotta spend your time where you get the best return on it, so I understand when you don't spend so much time cleaning, but it's still nice to see. I wonder if you'll repaint that block? I really enjoy these uploads. You are going to have a nice little machine when you are done with this project. Thanks for sharing this with us.
This machine definitely needed more than the eye could tell. Thanks for another great video.
Just a note, Cold water works just as well as hot. A little degreaser goes a long way once you get the bulk of it taken care of. I worked for a guy that did pressure washing for a living and he did everything others do with hot water with cold water. No expensive chemicals except the one time we did a driveway that a motor was rebuilt on and decided to put degreaser down to help penetrate and break it up to save time. He did restaurants with cold water. I do it myself now. But doesn't matter, you got it cleaned up regardless of the method. That's what matters. Have a happy new year! Can't wait to see more this coming year.
With the rings in such a state on the dead piston I would pull the rest of the pistons so you can at least inspect and clean the rings and grooves.
Really cool how the commenters are helping you.
Reminds me of working on european transversal engines, better to yank them out instead of fumbling around in quite tight spaces...
Thx for showing, Happy New Year!
👍👍👍
What a filthy ,neglected machine--hope you can do right by it,Jesse !!
id need to see how radiator comes out of JCB 1110T. need to get to alternator/bracket, etc.
Camera don't fail me now. In case you need to revert back. I know I would need to. Happy New Year Jesse.
Another great equipment save. Congrats Jesse. Now's your chance to create that access panel under the engine you talked about. And oh, by the way, my wife kept 'telling' you to get a few bottles of Dawn dish washing liquid to pour all over the engine compartment and let it soak before pressure washing. Keep up the good work.
Nano engine washing liquid is so strong and practical that it penetrates the hard deposits of oil and mud and makes the engine shiny like a mirror.
You need to pull all the pistons and hone the cylinder walls , and check the the clearance on the main bearings, it looks like they did not do good maintain on the engines and ran very dirty oil and possibly ran it out of oil to have rod bearings look that bad.
Also on the turbo charger send it to area diesel and have them check it out fully, they have better prices than most part stores.
Atomisers are not injectors, the injection pump controls the injection.
Also look on the final drive, is the round hole in the center of the final drive is it threaded? If it is thread a bolt in to engage the drive gear. That hole if threaded should allow you to insert a bolt to depress a piston that disengage the drive gear. You do not have to remove the track and the track gear to take the final drive apart to disengage or to remove the drive gear to freewheel.
I know someone that uses jcb equipment and loves them, he like British equipment and JCB is a British company who just happens to have an assembly plant in savannah Georgia.
He said to check the center hole in the final drive as you are looking at it from the track side.
You know some skid steers have a cap on the final drives that are bolted on, that has a bump out on them, you remove the cap and turn it over and it allowed the tracks or wheels to free wheel.
My friend said jcb uses a bold to do that.
love the videos. had a 1991 Saab 2.2 motor dohc motor had 4 cams. motor drop a value guide . put a hole in piston head was junk . later found out that the block was cracked at the top of cylinder. it beat the aluminium piston so hard swell the piston in the cylinder bore.
Coolant probably got down the oil passages when you pulled the head. Probably got down through the hole in the piston, too. Pretty normal.
Overheating can cause the head to drop inserts, similar situation with valve seats.
That is some high octane engine carnage.
I learned that you first immerse the bolts in oil to prevent breakage. Penetration will cause damage.
Dang that was a lot of unplugging and recapping. This macine in general was a mess. Whom ever you bought this from looks, from the condition of this machine, that he never took good care of it at all, and just all the dirt and crap that was in the body shows that. Your explanation and care of takeing this all apart, cleaning everything up and then moving forward to repair/ replace things to put it all back to together is so much more than the last owner ever did. Look forward to Part 3 od this, and Hope you and your family had a great Christmas, and have a great 24 as well. See ya on the next one..
I have seen on VW Diesel engines that when the timing belt breaks or somehow there is piston to vale contact that not only will the valve be bent but the same can be true for the connecting rod from the impact. Measure the piston protrusion at TDC to see if they are all the same. You'll have to check the new piston and rings with the old rod and new rod bearings to get the answer. A bit of work to do this but with uneven compression in a cylinder you'll have an unstable engine speed at idle. I have been a fan of your for years and you never disappoint! All the Best in 2024! G.
Jesse, You embody the sentiment in a Frank O'Hara poem. The gist of the poem goes, "There is nothing to it except to do it." Your willingness to dive all the way into the deep end is very impressive and inspirational. I worry more about not getting it all back together as I'm taking it apart.
Jesse, I love your videos. I have used a very small amount of controlled muriatic acid to disolve the aluminum piston on steel cylinder walls. Keep up the great videos.
What a job. I guess you never buy a JCB again :) Happy New Year!
he jesse i m following you from the netherlands, man you are almost good with everything a real pro bro
Wish we lived close to each other. You and me would be good friends. Pretty much do the same kinda stuff. Great work on the videos. It’s hard enough to do the work on it in tight cramped up spaces. Let alone filming it. Cheers. 🍻. Also. It’s truly ridiculous that the engineers didn’t leave enough room to be able to remove the pump or the motor separately!!
You should cut an access hole in bottom skid plate also, and make it removable! You’re right, JCB has no engineering skills at all by the way it’s designed! Good luck brother, hopefully you’ll actually get it going again! Doesn’t look good for you, seems like bad design on a lot of this thing! That piston looks bad and bad design, what does JCB even stand for? When I saw it the first time I thought it was a knockoff version of a JOHN DEERE! lol 😂 Good luck with it Mr. Mueller, y’all stay safe and warm up there! Looks like we’re in the cold rainy weather season! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
So far so good, enjoying this project.
Now back to the house until the parts get here.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing
Hey Jess. that's just unbelievable how all that damage from that small bit of tin, but really it's down to abysmal designe on the part of the idiot who put that plug into the pre combustion chamber, the manufacturer should have to pay for that repair!. Bob..UK
Thank you very much for the video. 👍🤗👍🇸🇯
I would. Uy something off of you all day. You have tought me so much to look forward to thing in what I’m buying. And I know that if you had something to sell it would be well gone through and fixed.
We live we learn.keep up the good work
Ahhh I saw the thumbnail and saw a JCB skid. I got nightmares again. Get it working and sell that think fast. A few compiled long stories short, came down to a bad main hydraulic pump, special order only from UK to US and it was on backorder. Crazy money. Can’t match up with anything in the US due to special fit, tapered shaft with CCW rotation or something. Many simpler parts on JCBs are very proprietary.
One of the dirtiest engine bays I've seen in a while...maybe I should get out more!
I love watching your videos and I feel like you and me have a lot in common,esp on the way we fix things. Keep up the great work brother!!
brother your a beast really looking forward for the next video
I watched video #1 and recently started wondering what you had done. Today I watched a dirt Perfect video "Trip to local junk auction never disappoints" . At 16:15 he talks about a JCB 225 T power boom. He loves the design but won't look at one because of the electronic problems. I found this interesting. I really like the way you investigate before you start your projects and take your time to do things right.
Cracking work @46:00
Dude love the wrenching videos
Jesse...Maybe spray the bay with "GUNK" or Simple Green first....then PW it!
Project Farm on you tube did a show on grease cleaners, the best was Zep heavy duty Citrus Degreaser.
The buggers unsubscribe me again thats 3 bloody times warn people. I like your videos happy new year to you and family phil
I don’t have any diagnostic skills, but I will not through parts at a machine either. I have a forklift here I’m trying to get going but working on slowly.
Your videos are definitely worth watching
Cheers
Nice work Jesse the way the rod bearing got pounded at least get the one rod resized with stock rod bearing polish crank Journal with finest emery all the best measure for roundness spec over all your projects are amazing very hard worker great helpers and family
Really appreciate your text overlays explaining some of what we are seeing. It is also helpful for those of us who can't spend a full hour watching but come back 2-3 times in order to finish your videos. Great work and content as usual Jesse. Been a long time subscriber and it has been great to see how far along you have come with your channel. Here's to a great 24 for you and your family.
Thanks for sharing Jesse. It's always a pleasure watching your content
Great job Jesse..... rebuilding an engine is so detailed oriented...... Whew!
thanks for filming
I love all the video's. I've learned a lot. Have a great holiday and keep up the good work.
@jesse muller👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍. The major point to watch your videos is that I love people who are great mechanics and bring projects to an end. So I wish you all the best and to you and your family a great start in the next year 2024. with best wishes 👍😎🇩🇪
How about buying a belt for your buddy the Plumber? Or at least DT long tail shirts. Happy New Year.🍻
Another great and educational video.
JCB make brilliant construction machinery in use all over the world