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Homemade Electric Go Kart First Drive! | 80V Electric Kart Build Part 4
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- Thank you OG Racing! Check em out: www.ogracing.com
The electric go kart is looking more and more complete!! In this video we finish all of what this thing needed for a first drive! It still has a bit more to complete but this is one step closer to the final product. We have never done anything like this before but we are excited to take you along for the journey!
Thank y’all for watching and be sure to stay tuned for the next step of the build!
PARTS:
Motor: D&D ES-10E-33
24-48 VDC Separately Excited with mounting plate/rings and motor outline drawing. Has been used successfully at 72V which is how I planned to run it.
www.elmoto.net/... I emailed with DaveAK, the original poster in the previous link, about his build and he loved running this motor at 72V.
Buy online for $650+
Batteries: 24 Cells (72V) 60Ah GBS Model LFMP60AH Lithium Ion
Minimal cycles (~20) and have been in storage state/voltage. See spreadsheet for current voltages (3.18-3.25V)
www.elitepower...
gbsystem.en.al...
www.electricmo...
~$50+/cell = $1,200 new
Battery Management System: eLite Power Solutions (EPS) BMS-24
Hub, control unit, state of charge (SOC) display, front boards, cabling, etc.
Controller: Sigma Drive Separately Excited Motor Model SET835M
With technical manual, wiring diagram and connector/pins. Programmed for D&D SepEx Motor by Barefoot Motors (no longer in business) for use on their electric utility vehicle ATV.
www.cw-industr...
D51011.05 BQ09090112
Charger #1: eLite Power Systems Lithium Battery Charger Model EMC72-15
87V 15A output with user manual.
Charger #2: Generic Battery Charger Model WL-089-05
Output DC 72V 3A with input and output cables.
DC-DC Converter: Sure Power Industries Model 71030i
Includes connectors/pins and installation instructions.
www.cooperindus...
Solenoid/Contactor: Curtis Albright 72V Model SW180B-12
With bracket kit part number 2065-167A.
~$50-70 without mount kit
Solenoid: Model MZJ-200 48-48A Main Solenoid
200 Amp $60-80
Fuse Block: Generic with two 400A fuses
$22 each for fuses
Throttles: Magura Twist Grip Throttles (2 sets)
0-5K Ohm comes with matching grip for opposite side and instruction manual.
www.evdrives.c...
$50-60 each
-------BBR Social Media-------
Instagram - / build.break.repeat
Facebook - / buildbreakrepeatchannel
---------MUSIC --------
Music - Background and Montage Music Is From Endemic Sounds
www.epidemicso...
Intro - Jimmi by Andrew Applepie
• Andrew Applepie - Jimmi
-----------MERCH------------
MERCHANDISE CUSTOM DESIGNED BY YOURS TRULY
teespring.com/...
---------RACE SUIT---------
www.ogracing.c...
------THE WESTIN FRISCO-----
www.marriott.c...
--------------TOOLS------------
RogueFab Tubing Notcher
www.roguefab.c...
Pro-tools Tubing Bender
pro-tools.com/...
Optrel Crystal 2.0 Welding Mask
usa.optrel.com...
Optrel Grinding Mask
usa.optrel.com...
-----PARTS-----
Seat
www.gopowerspo...
Sprocket
www.gopowerspo...
When geared lower,it should smoke it’s tires.
please make a part5! im exited to see how fast it will be with correct gearing!
You know, if you guys did belt drive, it would be virtually silent.... I'm talking stealth cart boys 🤙
You haven't ridden electric skateboards long enough to hate snapping drive belts. Suron make silent drive belts for their bikes though 🤔 if I had a belt drive system I'd keep like a pack of 5 onboard with me. Snapping belts would suck quite a lot in a go kart when you consider you're sliding an axle all the way out and pulling the keyway out and bearings and everything. Unfortunately belts don't have the nifty swappability of popping a link on a chain. Belts on bikes and skateboards make sense for this reason and on the contrary for why belts simultaneously suck on gokarts? Just a guess?
Really it's just me being a whack job and I have this crazy ability to mentally visualise things in full 3D vivid detail and can mentally rotate things and play it back in my mind like a movie and zoom in on detail slow down fast forward etc. And typically I just did a full mental instructional film of what changing a belt on a go kart would entail given it's physical differences to convention chain and sprocket? It didn't take me long to go hmm I've seen this before playing pulleys on a custom made Lego technics I had as kid? **Harps playing suggestive time lapse**
The thing worked until the rubber band stretched and I had pull the f*#%ing to pieces to swap it out and putting 2 pulleys and 2 rubber bands added more load than the Lego technics electrical driver could provide? In the end it was a case of destroying the visual asthetics for the sake of serviceability or run dual belts and crank the motor to 9 volts instead of 4.5 😄
The things we do to avoid work that's god damn pain in the arse is usually directly proportional to the effort required to change the design vs how long you can get away without changing before you destroy the prototype? I've been known to walk that line quite often!
*sigh* ahhh belt drives. Both something to love for all their great characteristics and something to loath and hate project toxic 4 letter words at..... Play the game of guess the next word in the following phrase "James stretched a brand new belt and screamed 'you piece of _ _ _ _' James was driving along a collected a gumnut in his belt drives and suddenly things went from silent to _ _ _ _ _ _ _ when he sliced a brand belt in half?
James smashed his head against a brick wall when his pully jumped a took and cooked a flat spot into his and that that it took 3 stop start rotations and getting in and out of his cart to realise! Belts = bad idea
@@Jarmezrocks lmao, I'm getting the distinct impression you're not a fan of belt drive 😂😂😂
If they were running a belt, they could probably just use a CVT. That way their gearing will adjust itself depending on the needs. Maybe reduce the motor's strain if done correctly
So sweet!! This project has me looking for local used electric motorcycle conversions..
I was trying save you guys all that trouble by informing you about the drive sprocket size in the comment section of your last video. Glad to see that you got it straight !
you have built a hell of a machine . always a learning curve with anything . soon you will be ripping it
Great build and series you guys! remember how the old 10 speed bike gearing was set up? Although this won't give you absolute gearing ratios, it might help when considering front and rear sprocket size - Larger front/smaller rear - more speed, smaller front/larger rear more torgue.
My first video watching you and I love the old Chevy my dad used to buy are fix up old pickups
Absolutely incredible. Even though y'all had a couple bumps this is a epic win. Can't wait to see it regeared. I'm gonna bet it pulls like a beast.
Thanks for posting guys! I’m looking forward to seeing this re geared, it looks fun 👍
Yall religiously avoided using a steering wheel mounted thumb throttle with that pedal 😆
just letting you guys know that in the video on the sprocket it sparked the chain is loose i suggest you guys get some kind of chain tensioner
You guys make my day with no fear in the face of the unknown.
Guys... Some math won‘t hurt sometimes ;)
Measure the motors top rpms and define your desired top speed. Then take the wheels circumference and calculate its rpm at top speed. Now you have wheel rpm and motor rpm at top speed which directly gives you your transmission ratio. Cheers
Do you plan on bringing it back? I want to see how this thing performs with correct gearing!
Nice
isn't that chain loose?
No, like on a motorcycle, its supposed to have a tiny bit of slack. If its too tight, the sprockets wear out faster.
In my head I still hear those beautiful two stroke braaaps.
R.I.P braaaps
Wow u guys made quick progress, love this build.
Who wants to see a drag race between the Rotary Kart Vs the Electric Kart?
What i like most is you’re truck
Hey there's these things called heatsinks and radiators, you might want to get some for the motor and batteries...
I called it. I seen that sprocket and I commented on it but it was already done I watched thaws videos way later. Man I wish I would have been able to comment before you blew out the electronics. Unfortunately heat is the downfall for the electronics and heat is an outcome to wasted power. This is a awesome build though guys you have some quality gear and a great platform so it will be amazing
Wow, awesome! That's super "coulomb"...
Need a smaller gear on the engine I recommend 17/38 gears.... remember that electric motor has about 11000rpm or high range much faster than any gas engine
2 stroke kart engines do 14k+ rpm.
Not sure what rpm limit that motor has, but be careful spinning it unloaded, you can easily burn it out. Usually 12V unloaded is ok to test. Also, 72V DC with the current those batteries can deliver can kill you, please be careful. Electrical tape around any tool handles would be good. Always disconnect pack when touching any HV component or connector. It would be good to get a disconnect between the most positive pole and the fuse. If you have a disconnect between the two sides as well that would be great to drop the voltage. That contactor right next to the frame is concerning and the exposed battery terminals are also a concern. I think someone else also mentioned the positive wire going into the controller going over the black wire connection. That welding cable could melt if there is any heat on that terminal and create an instant short. A split loom over those HV cables would be a good idea. I had an experience with welding cable shorting to the frame of my DIY EV car and I got a very minor buzz when checking a battery terminal and touching the frame of my vehicle. Luckily the amount of exposed wire to the frame of the car was very small so not much current could flow.
I kinda figured that front sprocket was way too big. Still a sick ass kart guys! Suuuuper clean
Man I kept waiting for a burnout lol nice job
I'm not raining on your parade either. I love this stuff and very pro electric too. I'm just thinking that most average joes and even some experts haven't had the experience (excuse the pun) the negatives associated with electrical safety.....even 12v can be dangerous enough to fully amputate a finger and hot braise that wound by catching a wedding ring on a spanner and arching and shorting across the terminals (yes the shortest route possible and the near impossibility of the spanner reaching melting point before human flesh).
Anyway check out the Australian built Hill climbing cart that's 450kw and only 450kg! He uses a flood type system. The plastic around the cells you have is probably more thermally insulating than the lead foil kinda stuff they wrap LiPOs in though 😄
This is cool as hell
Could you give the part numbers of y'alls' drivetrain components? I'm trying to do a conversion for myself!
Yeah, we want to get a google doc ready, but a lot of these parts are outdated. We actually have a new motor controller on the way. Once we have this thing finalized we will link a full write up in all of the videos, but for now we don’t want to recommend anything without knowing if it works well.
motenergy..
@@BuildBreakRepeat do you have that doc? :D
The Electric kart has kind of been put on the backburner, the new controller has been caught up in shipping delays for months coming from China. Here's the parts list for what you see in this video:
Motor: D&D ES-10E-33
24-48 VDC Separately Excited with mounting plate/rings and motor outline drawing. Has been used successfully at 72V which is how I planned to run it.
www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?696-Electric-Mayhem I emailed with DaveAK, the original poster in the previous link, about his build and he loved running this motor at 72V.
Buy online for $650+
Batteries: 24 Cells (72V) 60Ah GBS Model LFMP60AH Lithium Ion
Minimal cycles (~20) and have been in storage state/voltage. See spreadsheet for current voltages (3.18-3.25V)
www.elitepowersolutions.com/lithium-ion-batteries
gbsystem.en.alibaba.com/product/60211404327-220349394/72V60Ah_lithium_power_battery_for_electric_scooter_motorcycle_golf_cart_etc_GBS_LFP60Ah.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.8.5d802fb2UBXKFF
www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/batteries/lithium/gbs-12v-4-cell-60ah-lifemnpo4.html
~$50+/cell = $1,200 new
Battery Management System: eLite Power Solutions (EPS) BMS-24
Hub, control unit, state of charge (SOC) display, front boards, cabling, etc.
Controller: Sigma Drive Separately Excited Motor Model SET835M
With technical manual, wiring diagram and connector/pins. Programmed for D&D SepEx Motor by Barefoot Motors (no longer in business) for use on their electric utility vehicle ATV.
www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Motor-Controllers/Motor-Controllers-Industrial-Vehicles/Sigmadrive/Induction-Motor-Controller
D51011.05 BQ09090112
Charger #1: eLite Power Systems Lithium Battery Charger Model EMC72-15
87V 15A output with user manual.
Charger #2: Generic Battery Charger Model WL-089-05
Output DC 72V 3A with input and output cables.
DC-DC Converter: Sure Power Industries Model 71030i
Includes connectors/pins and installation instructions.
www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/instructions/BUS_CBT_INST_180127a.pdf
Solenoid/Contactor: Curtis Albright 72V Model SW180B-12
With bracket kit part number 2065-167A.
~$50-70 without mount kit
Solenoid: Model MZJ-200 48-48A Main Solenoid
200 Amp $60-80
Fuse Block: Generic with two 400A fuses
$22 each for fuses
Throttles: Magura Twist Grip Throttles (2 sets)
0-5K Ohm comes with matching grip for opposite side and instruction manual.
www.evdrives.com/product_p/thr-magura-assy.htm
$50-60 each
recommend a jackshaft so you can "fine" tune the gearing
Cool build guys!
Gear it for 55, with a 10.inch tire you will need about a 6 to 1 sprocket ratio
Hey guys great job. I was thinking if you guys can add a gearbox or a bicycle gears. It would be cool to change gears while driving. Also you can add an alternator so the batteries can charge while you're driving
Is the re-gear done yet? This thing will be wicked! Use the smallest gear you can find and fine tune it with the axle sprocket.
*Build Break Repeat* Very Nice video..i really appreciate you.
Just a heads up you need to move your seat back or lean your seat back and move the pedals/pedal mounts forward as you should not be touching the steering wheel with your knees.
대단하십니다👍 최고입니다👍
Edit you put a guard on that chain! Good
What is the kV on that motor? Also, did you all have it wired in a delta or wye configuration? Based on the voltage that you are running, the kV of the motor, the tire circumference, and the gearing you can figure the top speed. Since gear ratio is the easiest to change, figure what you want top speed to be and then go with that ratio. Also, brushless motors dont really care about voltage, as long as the insulation in the windings can take it. Set your controller to limit the acceleration, this will limit the current going to the motor and keep it from burning up.
I mentioned controller cooling in part 2 of the build. Temp readout gauges for engine and controller would also be a good idea.
Yeah we filmed this before we posted part 1 or 2. Were getting a new controller and programming a temp shut off. The new controller also has a built in fan
The super dave suit made me lol
Get a li po battery for it just as powerful and only weighs like 10 pounds and is the size of a gas tank
What batteries do u think are in it. They want lithium ion
Lol nice thumbnail
Haha yeah it was terrible, I think I fixed it
So basically I used to work at a go kart track called MB2 electric karting raceway in California. And I worked there is a mechanic and seen the size of the gear on that motor scares me. You are severely overwhelming the motor and controller. The motor should have at the most a 20 tooth sprocket but my suggestion for your set up would be a 16 tooth sprocket on the motor and a 30 tooth on the axle. And the motor and motor controller should have some sort of fan blowing on them for cooling. The motor controller should have an output for a temperature sensor input and fan output. Hope you guys can read this and take my advice and make up bad ass go kart.
You need to put some thermal protection in. A couple of temperature probes and I'm based off of that information current limiting.
You guys should take it to a kart track once its figured out and run with the regulars
you should take the to the dirt track an race against them guys at the cart race track what i would do anyway..just take a genarator to the track charge in between the races
They kept saying they had bad gearing but they made it worse by adding a bigger drive gear. With a small drive gear and a bigger driven gear, you can add more torque and put less stress on the motor. That would sacrifice speed but the motor wouldn’t have to provide so much power to get a top speed.
I think I mentioned that sprocket being a bit too big in one of the first videos 😂. Live and learn I guess
Thanks for the video
I want a racing suit :)
Love ur videos the ekart looks sick
Please don't run a 48v motor at 72V, that will cause severe thermal issues and large current draws which will kill the motor life !!
Nice build tho
U dumb? If u up the voltage the current gets lower
@@lel9460 that's if you keep it within the design voltage range, then with higher voltages the current reduces. However if you use 72V on a motor rated for 48V, it will lead to the magnets getting saturated and current rises. Learn before you talk kiddo
@@lel9460 are you serious? Really? You don't know basic stuff about electronics. If you increase the voltage that means that the CURRENT consumption will increase. Current is proportional to the voltage
@@dieselgeezer18 bro you are so dumb "current is proportional to current" 😂😂
@@lel9460 maybe you are dumb because you are too stupid to understand that i made a mistake. I meant "current is proportional to voltage"
Nice video
I was really charged up for this build.I hope you don't get allot of static over the mistakes.I would've been more shocked if it had worked perfectly.
It's a pretty electrified build
I'm currently building a ekart.ive got a qs138 4000w motor and controller.what battery would you recommend I use
Love the driving suit. Don't be to hard yourselves this is a totally different power type than you are used to dealing with as I said last video this whole project is way over my pay grade. LOL Stay Safe. Stay Healthy!
*Build Break Repeat* ❦❦
I warned you about the sprocket.
Put lights on your switch board for reference.
Put some dirt tyres on it and go rip some grass up and turn it into mud ;-) she is a full blown rip snorter.
Where did you guys buy the motor?
Have you weighed the complete kart yet? I'm curious how it compares to a gas-powered kart.
Did you guys ever get a video of your final form? After better gearing
They make a 70 something volt electric utv called the beast
At full charge it will spin the tires it is way bigger and heavier than that cart... So im thinking that cart is going to be incredibly fast possibly even near 100 M.p.h. with the right gearing
If you over gear the motor you will cause issues. A taller gear on the motor will give you top end. You need to gear down for tourq to help pull that weight
It's a bummer your fried the motor and controller on your first electric project, but you NEED to fix this thing. This is the only separately excited go kart motor on you tube that I know of.
You have no idea what a beast this thing will be if you fix it and install the smallest sprocket on the motor you can get. It will out accelerate anything else you have hands down. Please fix it!
put a CVT gearbox, I think it will run and have more strength like that heheheheh
What are you using as low voltage protection for those calb cells. Also how are you charging and balancing them.
Yall should pair up with dewalt and use their flexvolt batteries for the cart if the batteries would last any considerable amount of time youd be able to cut a ton of weight off the cart
Just get lithium ion pouch cells
How long does this go kart last
Will there be a full blueprint and set up to the whole build once everything is done? Really want to build one myself
Wondering what size batteries and motor were used
What is your battery set up
Build plans?
Consider toothed pulleys and a belt rather than chain and gears. More transfer, less stretch, and longer life, at least on motorcycles.
Edit: grammar and clarity
Get Netgain 7 inch 72 volt motor!
what kind of motor do you use?
how fast does it go?
Any update on the go kart
Go brushless with a sabvoton or bac controller
how long the battery last?
Yall might need to put a clutch on it
What kind of motor is that??
What motor You using
What motor do you have
how many rpm bro
What is that motor u guys are using? It's really powerful!
well...you should have know better,..when you gearing UP on the PINON will stress
the motor ( generate more HEAT)..LIGHTEr BATTies...
Liquid cool it and remount the ESC...And/or just get a BIGGER MOTOR
or Tell them to send you another Motor...Make it a TWIN .lol
Did you guys ever show a complete parts list?
I just added them to the description, just keep in mind we're still waiting on a new controller and a couple new battery cells
@@BuildBreakRepeatWhy didn't you guys ever show us this project with the correct gear ratio and fixed? Kinda underwhelming to leave us like that.
Never weld with the battery on the kart
How many KiloWatts is your motor?
need to liquid cool that bad boy
How has the kart cost so far?
Yall wanna help my on my shopping go kart with a 150cc motorcycle engine
What motor is that
Any update
Hay guys who's the best backwards driver? 💨🚗
definitely Jason 😂
I think they are saving the full send in reverse for the last video they ever do hopefully far in the future.