DIY Van Build - Promaster 2500 159WB - Framing the Walls - Part 5
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- čas přidán 13. 08. 2021
- New project!! We will be building out a 2021 Dodge Promaster 2500 159 inch wheel base van and turning it into a beautiful tiny home on wheels.
I have built a sailboat, a dinghy, two teardrops and an RV. What better way to combine all builds into one, than to build out a van and enjoy many travels! Journey with me as I put my skills to the test and turn an ordinary cargo van into a luxurious dwelling place on wheels!
We will compliment this van with a full size bed, bench seating for two, running water, full electric, propane cooking appliances, lights throughout, outside shower, and top it off with solar power to run everything. And to add that extra flare… we will do it in BATMAN style!
I hope to see you until the end when we will do a complete tour of the finished van. I hope you like it!
Thanks for staying tuned and watching the videos… now, let’s get started
• #vanbuild
• #vanlife
• #campervan
• #vanconversion
• #homeiswhereyouparkit
• #vanlifediaries
• #homeonwheels
• #projectvanlife
• #tinyhome - Jak na to + styl
Thank you! I have watched a 'million' videos and you are the first person to actually show me step by step how you measure those top boards, mark the position of the rivet nut and continue with the entire process. You have no idea how helpful this is to me. Everyone else just wants to show you how to use the tool. I also appreciate how you explain the exact tools, size of bits, bolts etc...Thank you again!
Thank you so much for the comment, very much appreciated! Glad I was able to help in some way! Happy building!
@@OregonBatman was that a T20 or T25 on the d-ring?
@@TucciDaGucci I'm thinking that was a T40 on the D-Ring
Agreed - so detailed and a good pace for newbies to learn! Very rare to see such awesome detail and explanation of tools and sizes in these build videos
This looks like one of the first professional looking jobs. I think at 13:50 if you would have also counter sunk the wood on the rivet nut side it would not have wobbled. My theory is that it is rocking back and forth on top of the rivet nut lips.
This is hands down the BEST van framing video i have found to date. After watching dozens of methods, yours is the one i'm going to copy when i get my promaster next year. Only difference will be adding alcoves where the bed will be to allow for greater length, and adding a thicker center horizontal backing strip to allow for straight and parallel walls. Thank you so much for making this! You have saved me untold dozens of hours of tinkering.
Thank you David! Wish you the best on your build... you'll have tons of fun!
Just begging the question, what is the benefit of all that framing (and 12-14" on center spacing?) and added weight just to attach a wall skin to it??? This is massive over engineering.
I am a carpenter as well as a Master electrician and I am starting my journey on building a Pro master. Your attention to detail is amazing. I will definitely steel some of your methods. Thank you for taking the time to show your build.
Thank you for the kind words! Appreciate you following along! Happy Building!
Me too! I'm doing the exact same model of his van.
one of the BEST videos I've seen!!! Thank you for explaining things so completely and not talking down to us!!! Have a wonderful and blessed day ❤
Thank you Gizmo! Appreciate the kind words!
Rivnuts can be drilled out and replaced in the same hole. Also, aviation grade rivnuts, which are not much more expensive have a key lock so they don't spin.
If you have a rivnut spin on you, just drill a small hole at its edge: starting out at a 45 degree angle aimed between the rivnut and wall. As the drill starts cutting, slowly stand up the drill to vertical to the wall and you'll see that it partially drills into the edge of the rivnut and creates a notch in the rivnut at the outer edge. When you drive a small screw in that hole, it will act like a key on a shaft to keep it from turning on you.
Thanks so much for breaking this down! This is the best framing video I've seen really helped me out!
Thank you Yusef! Glad to help!
No CZcams Videos can even compete with this kind of work. The cut and the way the screws installed are perfecto
Thank you!
That is an absolutely beautiful framing job. It's consistent, neatly installed and structually sound. Thank you!
Thank you! I appreciate you checking it out!
It doesn’t look overkill. Looks like it was done by someone with a skilled trade that actually cares.
Thank you for the kind comment! Appreciate you watching!
Thanks for going slow and explaining the process. Very nicely done!
Thank you! Thanks for watching, I hope the video helped!
It made me feel a whole lot better thanks again. I prefer that same van. So you answered a lot of structural questions I had. Your great! Thanks!@@OregonBatman
@@kv3417 Thank you KV! Much appreciated!
Man your attention to detail and patience is amazing!
Thank you!! Thanks for checking it out!
"instead of all wavey 👋" 😂😂
Concise, precise, 100%clear nuff said
Thank you ian lui!
Guess I am going to be binge watching these spectacular videos…wow such in-depth info. Thank you. I’m just beginning a build out of my Nissan NV2500 high roof ….this rivnut thing is amazing,hope my hands and do it lol
watched a bunch of van builds, this the only proper one, #1 select pine , says it all.
Thank you! Appreciate you checking it out!
I’ve watch about a billion gazillion videos on all aspects of the Promaster 2500, (which hopefully I’ll be living full time in one by Pleasureway very soon!)…but, I have NEVER seen anybody notch out the wooden wall frame as you did in the video! I was so impressed with that, and, now I see first hand how important it was in doing it! Love it! I have joined your CZcams family and look forward to watching your videos past AND present! Stay safe and HAPPY BUILDING! ~Jim~
Thanks Jim! Those notches sure did help keep things straight!
@@OregonBatman After watching several of your videos now I’m STILL amazed seeing things in your build I’ve never seen in other builds! Check out George at czcams.com/users/HumbleRoad. He’s very meticulous like you! Have a great weekend!
@@TOTALLYRELAXED Gonna have a watch
You are doing such a fine job! Very cool! Thanks for showing the details of how you did everything--for those of us who would like to copy your methods. Nice!!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the comment!
Nice work!
Thank you!! Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Great video!! Thank you!!
Thank you jj alej!
Owesome work. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for stopping by to watch!
Super good job!
Thank you!
👌 awesome skills, well done 🙌
Thank you so much 😀 and thanks for watching!
Planning now and looking to start my build in one year. LOVE watching this video! Subscribed and taking notes. Thank you!
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Thank you Jeffrey! I am really hoping this turns out the way I imagine it. Probably going to make a ton of mistakes along the way, but it will be fun nonetheless... and look good! :)
This framing job is a masterpiece THANK YOU
Thank you Grzegorz!
This is exactly the in-depth tutorial I’ve been looking for. Thank you so much, feeling much more confident about my upcoming Promaster 3500 build.
That's awesome Mike! You will do great... once you get going, you'll be surprised how easy it really is!
You are a legend mate 💪 I NEED these videos 👍
Thank you for the kind words!! Appreciate you taking the time to watch my videos, thanks again. Al
Your attention to detail and skills are awesome!! Loved watching you do the teardrop before this, also. There's no doubt this will be an awesome build.
Thanks Dennis! Really hoping this turns out like I imagine!
Best framing video I’ve seen on CZcams. Thank you!
Thank you!! Thanks for checking it out!
best of the best. wish I was as talented as you!!
Nawwww... you got this! Never know what you can do until you do it! :)
Excellent workmanship on the van and the video! Demonstrating every step is a huge help!!
Thank you Kim!!
Awesome video, this is my favorite way of framing that I have seen so far! I am building a van right now and will definitely be incorporating these methods.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Happy Building!
Amazing info and video! I will be using this as my reference. The camera angles are perfect and pacing is great. I love how you explain as you go along. You’re a great teacher!! The framing looks so perfect!
Thank you katekaos!! Thanks for the kind words and checking out the video, glad to be of some help!
This is the best build I saw so far.
But why you don't make it straight from bottom to top? Why the bend?
Thank you so much!! The bend in the walls keeps a little more room in the width, if I went with straight walls, I would have lost another 3". I think it looks better as well :) Thanks again!
Aprendo muito contigo, suas técnicas de trabalho demonstram habilidade e segurança. Muito bom!!
Muito obrigado!
Same bat channel same bat time, till the next one Albert 👍
Right? Each time... I get closer to the end! :)
This is awesome! And will take me about 17 years to complete 😂😂😂
LOL! Thank you!
this is incredible. i have spent all day watching framing videos and most have made me question whether they will hold up over time, this one makes me question whether i have the minerals to get through the process 😂 learned a lot from this video, thanks a lot!
LOL! Thank ya!
Guess I need to get a bandsaw , or other thoughts on how to make the notch. Awesome video
A jig-saw will work just as well. Battery powered and you can take it with you in your tool kit
Nice
Thank you so much, and thank you for checking it out!
Fantastic video. Did you use 1 x 6 for all of the horizontals and verticals? I have a very difficult time finding boards that are NOT warped :(
I used 1 x 3 and 1 x 4 clear pine for the framing. I hand selected the boards I needed. Generally pretty straight wood
You are The Master thank Pro Job AAA++++++++
Thank you, and thanks for checking out the video!
You are a true craftsman though, no doubt :)
Thank ya!
This is by far the best framing video I've seen and I've seen MANY! The only thing I could say is that using a shop vac while you use the step bit works best to reduce metal shavings that could get into the van and can cause rust. If a step bit is not available a drill with a stop collar works but be careful. Also, using an automotive paint on the holes prior to adding your riv nuts protects the metal from rust damage. Using Steel Cross Nut- Pre-Bulbed - S25MG280, CPB2-2520-280 1/4-20 .280 Grip Cross nut pre-bulbed, 100 Piece Box on Amazon gives a bit more surface pressure for what some say is a better hold but that might be more of a personal preference. These can be put into the existing holes on the back half of the van by just pushing them in hard. You'll need to make some of your own holes in the front. I do really like the idea of making your own holes on the top horizontal line that's against the metal so that everything can be symetrical making it easier to find the studs later. I"ve already installed my nuts there but now I'm gonna double check and see if the ones on the van are symetrical or not and then adjust my plan accordingly. Using a 8 Pack 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Inch Hanger Bolts Double Headed Bolts Self-Tapping Screw Hanger Bolts for Furniture on Amazon you can put them into the riv nut, press your board up against it and then drill out your holes too. I also have not seen/noticed before the doubled up wood on the bottom half and no wood up top. Seeing how straighter it is I can see that it will make cabinet making much simpler. Do you think it was worth loosing that extra 3/4 of an inch on the bottom? It's such an exceptionally well done job, be proud!!!
Thank you for the tips Erika! The hanger bolts are a great idea! Saw someone else using those... of course, after I was finished with my installation! LOL! If I had to do it over again, I would probably forgo the horizontal boards to fasten the studs to and just fasten those directly to the van... I could have gained an additional 1-1/2" side to side. But... it worked out. Thanks again, appreciate you watching and the comments!
Nice notch work. I'll be getting a 136WB and hoping I won't require the same precise notch cuts but it will probably have the same wall contours as your 159WB.
I am guessing the the wall contours of the 136WB will be the same. I used the notches so the top wall wouldn't curve in so much. Thank you for checking out the video!
Your so clear and precise with your words and instructions it’s refreshing ❤️ thank you.
Do you help others do a build out, or is this strictly business?
Thank you C C. Just building this one for myself... :) Appreciate your kind words.
Nicely done! Thorough. Curious as to why you didn’t use a bit that was the exact size specified for the rivnut.
The step bit is way easier to control... with a larger bit, I would probably have punched throught the side or top of the van. Love the step bit!
Holly Batman!!! Beautifully done. One question I do have is why did you use 8" between center instead of the traditional 18" or 24"?
Thank you Jonathan! I used 1/4" plywood (Luan) for the walls and doesn't leave much in the way of 'strength' to attach anything to... so I beefed up the framing so I would be able to mount things where I wanted and not have to worry so much about them falling down.
This is the best framing I have seen. Do you have a list of what size boards you’ve used . Also what is the brand and year of your van?
Hello, I used 1 x 3 clear pine for all the framing. It is a 2021 Dodge Promaster 159 Wheel Base Van. Thanks for checking it out!
Thank you so much for this great content. One question regarding the step bit used to drill the 1/4 plus nut hole - do you recall the kind of step bit used - or the hole size? It’s not 3/8” is it?
Hi Zameer! I think I used the 3/16 to 7/8 step bit... 3/8" hole is pretty close. You might test one or two and see if that
is correct.
Hi, I am a complete newbie at building anything. I am nearly finished the sound deadening and the super lining of my new Fiat Ducato ( same as your van) and have the insulation next. I was wondering if the battening along the top of the van could be done with half inch birch ply or does it have to be three quarters. Great video, take care and stay safe from the UK xx
Hi Norma! I used the 3/4" so I have more material to fasten to when I install my cabinets. When I finished the paneling, those top pieces ended up being around 1-1/4" thick to clear all of the supports in the van.
Hello Al, Its good to see you back at work on an idea, I have been wondering what the next project would be. I still have not finished that trailer I started, my daughter who it was going to be for bought my brothers trailer, so then my granddaughter wanted it. That one ended up a no go too. She will be having our first great grand child in January, as I always do, I will be watching every video you produce. Sorry I never started earlier but will soon catch up. Loooks like its going to be another super bat mobile
Hi George! Welcome back! You really should get that trailer finished! :) Congrats on being a soon-to-be great grandpa! Having fun on this build... much to do! Cheers! al
@@OregonBatman Al , I will be 80 yrs old in January so maybe I will have a party and build a big bonfire with the part built trailer.. I love your work and will still be watching.
@@albion2742 Well Happy 80th my friend! Thanks for tagging along! It will be a beautiful bonfire! :)
Hey again :). What did you do on the floor rear of the wheel well? There isn't really anything to attach and 1x3 to. I started framing tonight with your method....I ordered some hex rivnuts so that I could take advantage of the hex holes.....really glad I did that. We have a bunch of windows so I wont have as many vertical supports as you.....but still trying to build out the same way. Thanks again for the insight..
On mine, there was an area that I was able to install two rivnuts in the small piece behind the rear wheel well, then I could install the vertical studs... I didn't show it too well but mentioned it at 18:23, then at 18:29 was a quick glimps of the studs screwed to the short piece. Hope that helps... sorry I didn't have a better shot. There might be a better shot in the video where I installed the paneling.
This is amazing, yet I'd expect no less from the Batman! The framing is so nice it seems a shame to cover it over! A work of art! Wonder if plus nuts are any less prone to the failures you experienced with the rivnuts.
Thankks T455! I am sure the plus nuts have their set of problems too... I think I may have been at fault for not gripping the rivnut down as tight as I should have, was worried about breaking the tool thread off, so I was being overly cautious. :)
Great video again Al! I am taking a ton of notes, since I will jump in the same project within a few months! I noticed that you "chamfer" each board for clearing bolts heads using a Forstner Bit which is perfect; but since the RivNuts heads are exceeding a bit the metal surface on which the board will be sitting on, I was wandering if "chamfering" a bit the other side of the RivNut hole would clear the RivNut head and assure proper seating of the board on the metal surface. What do you think? I plan to make those ribs of birch plywood and maybe the RivNuts head won't plunge easily into the wood when tightening the bolts.
Thank you sir! I am learning as I go along... I think it is a great idea to chamfer on the back side for the RivNuts, that would eliminate any of the "rocking" that may occur once fastened. I think going with the Birch ply for the studs is a great idea, considering the price of lumber these days... Each stick I purchased was at least $9 each, I just wanted the security of knowing any fastener going into it wouldn't eventually pull out. Seeing the work you did on your RV, I am sure your Van build will be AMAZING!
@@OregonBatman Thank you Al, it is always a great pleasure to chat between builders!
Thanks! Really helpfull. This was what i was looking for. Can i ask what size the studs are?
Hi Jeroen! Thanks for checking it out! The studs I used are clear pine 1 x 4 (3/4" x 3-1/2") Hope that helps!
What wood thickness did you use? 3/4"? Such amazing Detail THANK YOU!!! Did you make a video for the sliding door? Cant find one anywhere.
Hello Erika! Thank you! Yes, the studs are 3/4". I haven't finished the sliding door yet... I will most likely cover a piece of wood and install carpet over it to keep with the rest of the looks of the interior. Thank you for checking it out!
You are amazing Sir. More than a beginner you look like a pro. 👍NEW SUBSCRIBER HERE!
Thank you Francisco! Thanks for checking it out!
This looks very clean and neat, but could we use simple self drilling screws instead of the rivnuts? this is so much work! and it's not that we are going to replace these wood pieces anytime soon.
Self drilling screws work just as well... I prefered the rivnuts to ease the worry of screws coming loose from vibration. A little mor work, but solid as a rock!
This video is so helpful....thank you. One question....in the top corners of the van you used 1x6, but later you added 1/4" to the thickness. I notice that in my Promaster, I would need to add 1/2" (rather than 1/4") to clear the support braces. Looking back, would you have rather used a 2x6 than the 1x6? I am at that stage now and trying to figure out if I should use 2x6 or a 1x6 + 1/2" plywood added to its thickness. Not sure if that makes sense...Hope so. Thanks again :)
Hi Marc! Absolutely... looking back I could have save a little extra work by using 2 x 6. I started with the 1 x 6, then added 1/2" on top of that thinking I would clear the supports... I then had to add the 1/4" to make all the clearances. The only benifit doing it the way I did was each layer I added, I was able to close gaps each time making the fit real tight. You will save time using 2 x 6 and still achieve the same results. Happy building! Your build is coming along great!
It's not a good idea to insulate the drainage holes. But overall, I like the framing of the walls.
True... a few things I din't research before I started. Thanks for checking it out!
What made you decide what spacing between each vertical stud? The distance between the studs varies a lot from one van builder to another. You also have equal spacing, so it eases finishing work after and also to hang other furniture. For a house, the standard is 3 x 16" on center to fit 4' x 8' plywood or sheet rock, but for a RV I don't know. Thanks for the answer for me and for all other viewers.
I chose a closer spacing mainly for attaching the cabinets. I wanted good attachment points for the strength. I am happy with the results and everything is super solid. I guess there are no real rules on the spacing. I wanted to keep in mind that if somepoint in the future I wanted to add more structures or cabinetry to the walls, I have a place to attach to. Thank you for checking it out! Cheers! al
Top grade lumber
Yeah... pretty good stuff!
@oregonbatman,
After watching I see the walls are flat side to side.
I know that after that around 3-4ft vertical from the floor or around that mid horizontal body member the walls on my promaster begin arching/curving in.
By notching your vertical members around the upper horizontal van member, are your vertical boards perfectly square/perpendicular to the floor and flat in the vertical orientation or do they still follow the contour of the van side?
It's hard to gauge from video shots.
@Lance, The walls still follow the curve of the van. The notches were made so the top wouldn't curve in so much. It looks like they are perpendicular to the floor, but are actually curved.
Great video! What size board do you use for the lower horizontal ?
Thank you! I believe I used 1 x 3 throughout most of the build, even the lower parts
Thank you for the quick response! I am going to watch your wall installation video later tonight! But ... I have one more question. I'm having trouble with the verticl rib that juts out in the middle. It seems that only a 2x4 or 2xsomething would be thick enough to be flush with it. Did you run into any issues with the 1x3? (And thanks so much for taking the time to respond. You're so kind!)
@@magenta_leigh Once I installed the horizontal pieces, then installed the vertical pieces, I had just enough clearance that my walls went over it without barely touching it. I couldn't do that at the very top... so if you open one of my cabinets, you see the side rib (just a little bit of it) :)
Thank you so much!!
Great job! How deep do you recommend the furring strip to be able to have the strength to hold up cabinets? What do you think about spacing the furring strips further apart? Thank you!!
If your cabinets are heavy, or you plan on putting a lot of weight in them, I say you'll want at least 1-1/2" to fasten into. I see no problem spacing the studs farther apart. Thank you for checking it out!
@@OregonBatmanDid you mean 1 - 1.5"? Is it better to use plywood or solid wood? If solid wood what type? Thank you for your help!
@@PromasterSuperHighVan-fx2th Correct, 1.5". I prefer solid wood and have had much luck with clear pine. It is very strong and holds fasteners really well
@@OregonBatmanI love pine! I also love your channel especially how you show only what is needed. You are a great teacher. Thank you for expertise and time!
Thank you! Thanks for taking the time to watch, much appreciated
So glad that I’ve come across your video… the idea of arbitrarily drilling in self-tapping screws all over the place just didn’t sit well with me.
I agree... my most worry with self tappers would be that they would vibrate loose over time, didn't need anything rattling behind the walls! Thanks for checking it out!
What size of wood did you use for the vertical and horizontal portion of the frame?
Hi there! I used 1 x 3 clear pine to stud the walls. Lightweight, strong, and easy to work with! Thanks for checking it out!
So you don’t stress over the metal flakes from the drilled rivnut holes?
Meh... not really. But, if I had to do it all over again, I would probably do a little better job of cleaning that up.
good instructional video. clearly presented with good camera and audio
Thank you!
what wood did you use for framing ? Looks like premium 1 x 3 ? Was this not very expensive ?
At the time of building, EVERYTHING was expensive! Pandemic is not a good time for building LOL! I used clear pine, very straight, very strong, and very light! I build with what I could afford.... I could afford it. :) LOVE working with this stuff!
thanks for you reply. I am just starting a build of 2022 159 WB Promaster 2500. Been looking at any info on building that I can find. Love your videos, this is the best and cleanest frame design I have seen. Thanks for sharing.@@OregonBatman
@@normanroberts6241 Thank you! Best of luck on your build!!
Can you tell me what rivet nut tool you are using that allows to use cordless tool to unscrew
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1450 13" Plusnut and Extra-Long Rivet Nut Setter Kit Metric & SAE From AMAZON
@@OregonBatman thank you
Where are the links to buy the tools you used in this buildout? I swear I saw them before. Thank you!
Unfortunately... I never added the links, but I think I got most of the items from Ebay and Amazon. Sorry
Did you have LED lights on any of the ceiling support beams? I have a 2020 Promaster and it came with a string of LED lights that are wired into the van and go across 2 of the support beams. I am trying to find instructions from someone who has removed them.
Hey Joanna! I had only one light attached to the roof of the van to remove. There were four screws holding it on. So mine was pretty easy to uninstall... sounds like yours is a bit different
HOW DO YOU CUT THE HOLES ON THE WOOD TO FIT THE BOLTS PERFECTLY?
I clamp the wood in place then use an 1/8" drill bit to drill a hole into the wood and into the metal. Remove the clamps and used a step bit for the rivnuts then drilled the wood for the bolt. Simply reinstall the wood and fasten into place... done!
Is there an Amazon link with the products used?
Hi! I haven't set up any links yet... something I should do though since I've had several requests. I just need to set aside a day and get it done!! Thanks for the reminder!
im curious, why not just put the rivnuts in the holes that are already there? Why use step bit to drill holes?
Most of the holes were too small and would still need to be drilled out. Other holes were not round and the rivnuts were too small.
Wow you used all select pine for the framing?! $350-400 just for the walls by my estimate
Straightest stuff in my opinion.... use what you can afford :) No regrets here!
Curious if you could have recessed into the van a bit more and your thought process. Thanks for sharing!
I could have done away with the horizontal pieces considering the number of studs I used. Could have gained another 1-1/2" in width. Wasn't keen on making the bump out on the sides for added width, didn't need it since I'm not THAT tall! :)
@@OregonBatman oh thanks for the reply, I didn’t know if you were trying to avoid something on the floor, like the channels around the floor perimeter, I get my van in October so trying to nail down some of these decisions. I’m going to borrow heavily from yours and frugal factor videos 🙂
Would've been nice to see the other side get built
It was so much like this side I didn't film it... looking back, maybe I should have. Thanks for checking it out
@@OregonBatman Great video. I just know what you do on one side you don't necessarily do to the other. In practice, perhaps....but...vans are a different beast.
True that! For this one though... I did make each side nearly identical, guess that's why I didn't film it. You are right about vans being a different beast, not a square bone on its body! :)
what type of wood is that? Oak?
It is clear pine... lightweight and strong
@@OregonBatman thank you
So you double the 3m on their?
I did! I had quite a few yards left over and instead of getting rid of it, realized I had room enough for two layers. Super glad I did... extra insulation and super quiet inside!
@@OregonBatman did it actually get cooler that way, id thought about cutting the insulation off and using 90 to spray it to the other and make it thicker that way if it worked like that. 🤣
I'd say it works like that. When the sun is on the side of the van, you don't feel the heat on the inside as much. Wish I had doubled the insulation like that on the ceiling as well. It does saty comfortable.
@@OregonBatman I missed that part, the room to double it on the ceiling 😂
It will surely help! The sun is always beating down on the top!
" Does it come in black? "
Depends on what item you are asking about... the Van? Yes, they offer black
will you build my van?!
Hmmmm.... have to think about that one, not finished with mine just yet. :)
Not including all that hardware used ;) $
Cha-CHING!