Tailgate Rust Repair Made Easy
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- čas přidán 26. 06. 2019
- Tailgate rust repair is made easy in this video that focuses on saving an old tailgate when replacements are too expensive or you simply cant't find one.
/ @lakesideautobody - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Lakeside Autobody Its so pleasing to watch these repairs. Love it.... thanks
Thanks - I appreciate the support
Nice and simple. And with a little finish work, it would be damn near perfect.
Just saw four of your great videos. Was searching on welding techniques for pin hole rust in body panels and I'm hooked. I've been working on a 73 Jeep Commando restoration since 1986. I Have a mig welder and every tool I need. I just need to focus and do a bit each night. I will be binge watching your other videos when I can. Keep up the great work!
Glad you enjoy the content - I'll keep uploading - thanks
This video may well have kept me from scrapping a car that in better times had 2 trophys. Thank You, your easily the best CZcams body channel.
Thanks a lot - I appreciate that. I'll keep coming with new videos - glad you like them. Have a good weekend :)
Thanks, I am going to attempt patching the lower portion of a door on my truck. This was a huge help.
I appreciate the support BWB - have a great weekend :)
to bend that edge on a budget, I use a step side Chevy truck bed brace that normally supported the wood, that is my portable shop anvil bending tool, now get an 18" long piece of water pipe steel, & use a normal curved jaw vice grip clamp to 1 end the pipe on top of the brace, now use your standard welding clamp to fit under brace, & inside other end of pipe, now insert metal where you want to roll a curve, & clamp, & it works awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all parts I acquired free.
great job turned out great
Thanks for the tip, all the car shows do butt welds, I never thought that was necessary. In a few months, I'll be resto-moding my wife's 95 Jeep Grand C for my daughter, it's in pretty good shape but the rockers are rusting out, should be an easy fix with your technique. Thanks for sharing. P.s. I've never have done this before so it should be an interesting series of videos, when I get started I'll be sure to give you a shout out.
You're welcome - looking forward to hearing from you again. Ask as many ?'s as you want during your project. Jerry
Beautiful work as usual, thanks for sharing!
You're welcome :)
Very fast method of repair. Simple and effective.
Thanks 👍 - In every body shop I've worked at, this is the method used. Glad you enjoyed it :)
Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom.
You're welcome Mike - thanks for watching and have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too, buddy.
Well done !
Good job, you made it an easy job. Thank you
You are welcome - glad it helped :)
Congratulation sr!!.
Exelente trabajo señor 👍!!
Me gustan mucho sus videos y aprendo mucho. Gracias por compartir.
Resuelve los problemas de forma muy sencilla.
Le saludo desde Argentina.
Saludos desde Michigan. De nada. Me alegra que te ayuden. Que tengas una buena semana.
@@LakesideAutobody wtf no esperaba k nos contestaras en Español , I am speechless .
Amazing video! so simple and to the point!
Thanks - I appreciate that - have a good week :)
Beautiful job thank you for sharing
Thank you! 😊
Thank you again.Great job.
Thanks for watching Mike - have a great weekend :)
Professional handmade work👍rust repair.
Thanks for watching Thomas - I appreciate the comments too my friend :)
Great Job, And as always I've gotten alot of information that I can put to good use. Thanks!
You're welcome :)
Another awesome video jerry!
Thank you Frank - have a good week :)
Fantastic work sir thanks 👍👍👍
You're welcome my friend :)
thats amazing how you can lay that new piece over top of it. id think it would make it a lump and that any piece cut would have to be cut just a hair smaller and be inserted in there with butt welds. how does anyone let something go to that point? once you start noticing a bit of rot youd think to do something about it.
I'd say it would be perfect on the outer skin other than the tailgate has a couple of body lines that aren't on the new repair panel. I liked how the corners were cut to fold over nicely.
You noticed that. Very good :)
that looks great ! i have a 69 ford pu i'll be doing this too. thank you: )
You're welcome :)
Great work💪
Thank you :)
bamn nice video and sweet repair thanks for sharing
You're welcome - glad you liked it - Happy Holidays
You are the best on youtube, no bullshit
Thank you very much - very cool of you.
Great video
Thanks
Done properly IMO. strong and lasting repair. Filler wont crack if it is done right and that would lase the life of the car.
Thanks Mike - I appreciate that. You're right - filler will not crack, fall out, etc if it's applied right. Can't wait to see you drive that Cherry Picker - what a find :)
All your vids r top notch
I appreciate that Gordon - thanks. Enjoy the rest of the week 😊
very nice work
Thanks Allen.
You make it look easy
Thanks Vincent and thank you for the support :)
Thoroughly enjoyeds !
Glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)
Great video, as always.
Thanks Michael :)
Great example
This is great - thanks
You're welcome Dave - have a great weekend :)
Great 2 see .keep them coming
Thanks
Imagine rebuilding that model truck and this being the 1 piece you need and this man fixed it just for a video and throw it away
Man,wish you lived closer,my vehicle bodywork Sensei! Thank you sir!
You're welcome Glenn - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry,hello,can I get your email address so I can send you pictures of how I did this under your excellent guidance from your videos! I've never done bodywork before,other than mixing some filler! Thank you sir!
@@glennsmith5921 schoolvideolibrary@gmail.com Have a good weekend Glenn :)
Nice
fantastic! If you can make an unedited video where you show everyone how you template the cut-out to make a new piece fit properly
Good idea - I'll do a video like that - thanks for the suggestion
@@LakesideAutobody Quick question-what gauge metal did you use-if you have time would you mind posting a list of what metal should be used where for instance like what gauge floor pans should be/quarter panels/etc.
@@hunterm.172 All body panels (excluding super old cars 20's-50's) use 20 or 22 gauge (.035" or .030"). Floor you can use 18 gauge - I wouldn't be opposed to using 20 if the hole is smaller. Hope that helps :)
@@LakesideAutobody YES thank you so much!! I have a 65 Chevelle and 59 El Camino I have that Im about to start on!
@@hunterm.172 Both sweet cars - keep me updated on how they're coming :)
Another great video. You manage to cut some impressive fitting patches. What gauge sheet metal do you use and roughly what are your welder settings?
20 gauge or 22 which is getting on the thin side. .030" is the micrometer measurement. Miller mig settings are at 1 or 2 (voltage) - there are 4 settings. Wire feed is around 40 - there's a chart inside the lid I use as a general guide. Gas is at 20 cfh I believe - once it's set you don't have to touch it - it's the same for everything. - Glad you like the vid
Nice job. One comment is leaving all that raw metal on the inside of the folded over seam. No matter what you do water will get there (as evidenced by the original rusting out). Perhaps a quick spray of some epoxy primer first to slow things down. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome - sorry about the late reply :)
Agreed, Never leave raw metal unfinished, having the drain holes is great, but it is also letting in moisture and creating rust from the inside out on the raw metal. All that hard work won't last but a few years in Michigan, just a little metal primer/paint goes a long way!!! Otherwise nice metal work!
3 m cavity wax also
Love it
3rd vid of yours, good tips on building that corner. I am doing a rocker panel on my car, making own panel, I haven't found one short of buying a parts car. I see you lap joint a lot. I've always butt welded since the first patch i put on. Seems like a area to trap salt and once again rust from the inside between the joint.. anything you can add to explain why lap is it just for ease of mate up and cutting tolerances... nvrmd I see you have a video on that!
(Lol, yt just autoplayed next one of your videos on repairing a rocker! Awesome thanks!)
After you have finished the repair and painted, drill a few inconspicuous 1/8" holes on the inside or side of the panel and squirt a good helping of used motor oil inside the panel. It will creep around and eventually coat everything preventing future rust.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks, I see what i can do for access. Lots of salt... I've been using transmission fluid for that, and inside lower doors with it. Cars with long time trans leaks, the underbody has no rust in these areas. Also its thinner to spray. Have you found oil to be better? Actually i find grease is the best if you can smear it.
@@jeremyr7147 I thin the used motor oil with mineral spirits and spray it on the under body with an old windex bottle or an old auto body spray gun. Works real nice.
Excellent work. Have you ever used the tool that you run along one edge that you're welding, it bends about 1/2" of the edge down one material thickness so when you lap weld you're not above the surface. I never did but I've seen them and it looks like it's a time saver. Not sure what it's called? Funny story, my boss forgot to peel the transfer tape layer off of a pinstripe, so about a week after it was done the customer brought it back because the clear was lifting between the two pin stripes! What a pain in the butt to fix! Thanks for the videos!
Wow! That pin striping story is excellent. Good thing your boss did it - always feels good when the boss makes a mistake - that gives you a license to mess up too. I think you are talking about a panel flanger. I have used one. All seams should be knocked down a bit anyways so that the filler can be a buffer between the seam and the paint so... I just lap weld and knock it down. You can certainly use one though if you like it and it works for you. Thanks for the good story Mike - nice talking to you :)
I have a 76 K5 you can do some demos on
can I stitch weld panels, knock down the welds and put the filler or is it necessary do a continue weld all across the panels ? both ways work the same or stitch weld can be compromise by rust or stress? Thank you.
You can stitch weld - then grind lightly - knock the welds down and fill. You can weld solid too. Both ways have worked well for me as long as you knock them down good. It's when you grind to much making the welds thin and worry about metal finishing that you run into trouble. Hit it low and fill it with dough! You'll be fine - rust starts at the bottom of the panel anyway (where the salt water and debris get trapped)
I have a have a 75 Cherokee. It needs a full length patch on the bottom outside. It also needs hinge pockets repaired. Should I cut the whole bottom off or piece it?
To me it's easier, and a bit better quality if you cut the whole bottom off. Here's another option if you do a whole bottom too: czcams.com/video/d21RkqTwRqs/video.html
Really enjoy Your videos You make everything look so easy, my question is on the spray bomb primer, I was told 25 30 years ago that spray can primer contained moisture and it shouldn't be put under paint, has the industry cured that problem or was it never a problem to begin with and I just received bad advice?
I think that was probably bad advice. I've never had a problem with that issue. Spray bomb primer is used for quick touch ups of small bare metal spots in many body shops. You can use the most inexpensive spray bomb primer and never have an issue if used sparingly.
Another great video. I really appreciate these. I've learnt a lot. What gauge of sheet metal do you use? Thanks
For rust repair 20 or 22 gauge. Glad you enjoy the videos Pat :)
Do you use the pointed body hammer to knock the weld down?
Yes. You can use a straight edge to make sure they are low. Also don't worry it you didn't quite hit it low enough as you can still wack them down later if you find a high spot while sanding your filler
Would you use Weld-through primer on any part of this, or treat the inside part of the panel?
Treat the inside of the panel. I'm not sure the weld through primer would hold up to the welding process. Wouldn't the area around the actual weld be burned off - leaving bare metal? Just my thoughts on that.
@@LakesideAutobody I thought that was the purpose of weld through primer. Otherwise in michigan, I have seen welds rust from the inside out within months. Water will seep through the welds and appear as beads on the paint surface. I have my rx7 repaired by a dealership and that's what happened. Where they cut a patch panel in the dog leg in front of the rear tire, it would seep.
Weld thru primer in theory is supposed to creep back to the weld area once welded. Does it, I don't know. I don't use it. Your supposed to spray it on and then clean it off where you weld so you get a good weld. If you weld on top off the primer you get a LOT of splatter.
This is a great video and thanks for sharing,can the bare metal on the inside of the repair sections be treated in any way to prevent further rusting after the repair ?
Absolutely - check out this video. czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html
You don't have to aim either cause the oil creeps and eventually covers everything like an old valve cover.
what kind of sheet metal did you use 18 or 20 gauge ..im in the same situation cant find replacement
22 gauge or .030" You can also use 20 no problem .035".
Great video. What do you usually fill with after welding is done? Shortstrand fiberglass then body filler? Or just body filler?
Just plain body filler
@@LakesideAutobody ok thanks
Body filler sucks use West Systems and some of there thickeners. Waterproof and strong.
Great..... What's the panel made of ??
22 gauge cr sheet metal from Alro steel.
This is as easy as it gets, really. Grab your welder, sheet metal, auto shears, oh wait... I don't have any of those. Bondo here I come
What amp setting do you use for that thin metal?
My welder has 4 settings - I usually start on 2 - if it blows through to easy I set it on 1. The wire feed chart is on the inside of the welder and I pretty much stay with that.
I like it but I wire brush the inside then coat it then I like welding
, Great video! Good afternoon, what is the gauge or caliber of the sheet that you used for replacement? thanks
22 gauge - 20-22 gauge is good for rust repair. That's the thickness of most auto sheet metal today - .030" - .035" 20 gauge is .035" and 22 is .030" Thanks BTW
@@LakesideAutobody ok great , i think for My CJ7 Jeep it can be 16 gauge..
@@juliocesarmaza8563 Yes - I think jeeps are thicker - have a good week :)
What metal is that patch , it looks like galvanized in the video.
It has a zinc coating I believe. It is a bit thin too but that's the biggest piece of metal I had at the time.
How do you trace your repair panel to perfectly line up with your cut?
First cut a panel that comes close - then fold in to come close to fitting - then trim with a good pair of tin snips. You are aiming for about 1/4" overlap on top of the patch and then you'll have the fold or pinch weld at the bottom. Make sure you allow for good drainage so it doesn't happen again :) BTW - cool mustang on your channel banner - best looking mustang ever built in my opinion. My son just bought a 2012 - just a great looking car inside and out - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Appreciate the response, thanks. And yes absolutely love the s197 platform as well. Had mine 12 years now.
Jerry this is the same tailgate that i'm working on the 000 dakota but my tailgate was damaged beyond repair so I replaced it form one from the junk yard. It had about 40 cats of paint so I stripped it and completely disassembled it. and repainted it .Now completely reassembled it. and now I'm having trouble getting it to align to the bed. all the brackets are out of place. Any suggestions. The tops out and the bottoms in or just the opposite on the other. Its confusing.
Start at the bottom and get that first. Where it attaches has to be adjustable - if not open the holes with a burr bit or even a drill bit or die grinder. Once you get the bottom to align work on the top. Keep asking ?s if you need. Let me know how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I started at the bottom and worked my way up now I have it in pretty good shape we're within 3/32" of perfect and I believe that's pretty good. Now i'm working on repairing rust over the wheel wells. I appreciate your advise.
@@keithshilt5549 Glad to hear it. Have a good week :)
Quick and dirty.
Will it matter that the lap weld is not completely welded?
An old boss of mine made us weld our patches solid - well of course I cheated here and there and never ran into any problems or complaints. The reason I think is because the moisture, salt and debris always runs to the bottom of the panel - and that is where the rust will begin again - not on the side of the panel where those lap welds are. It's up to you though it you want to weld solid - I leave some space between my welds, grind clean, tap down, fill and don't have any issues. You can give your repaired panel a squirt of used motor oil after you paint to keep the bottom of the panel from rusting again.
Video of how to size up the new piece that’s odd shaped like that
OK - I'll get one done - thanks for the suggestion.
Are you using Gas in this demonstration as there seems to be little or no splatter?
Yes - it's an older Miller Millermatic 90, 110v MIG .23" wire
What type and size sheet metal to I buy / use?
22 gauge (.030") or 20 gauge (.035") - carbon sheet (steel sheet) A1008 Alro Steel or Speedy Metals are examples of places that sell this in a 4x8 sheet around $110
Lakeside Autobody thanks so much. I’m looking to buy a welder and make the dive into working on my own car projects.
On the front side of the tail gate there is a body line. How do you recreate the body line?
Nice ?. I would use sticky back sandpaper and bend it around a block so you can dig a 90 degree angle "V" shaped body line the whole length - using a guide board clamped in place to keep your block straight - then round off one side of the "V" that you created. I would create that type of groove AFTER you've got the panel flat though. I'll do a video on that. If it were my truck though I would just leave it w/o the body line.
I run a piece of tape as a guide and use a die grinder to carve it out ... sculpting in body filler.
What gauge metal was that?
That is 22 - too thin for auto body repair really. Probably best to use 18-21 - Jerry
Trabajo perron
Es un elevador de coches de 4 postes.
Where do I get a quality Nibler and air hammer with the cutting attachment? I am fearful of HF but don't want to pay crazy prices for day in&out shop quality either.
This is the air hammer bit I have - expensive but you'll have it for life and be super happy with it. shop.snapon.com/product/Sheet-Metal-Rippers/Air-Hammer-Sheet-Metal-Ripper/PHG51B
I bought the nibbler from Northern Tool a long time ago they don't carry the same - I would trust this one though - HF is not bad when it comes to air tools really : www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658751_200658751
Harbor freight have different price grades of all tools from cheaply made to pretty nice quality
what about the body line on the tailgate?
You could recreate that if you wanted. I decided it wasn't necessary to the overall idea of the video.
I got major rust on my Broncos tailgate. It wouldn’t be a big deal if the tailgate didn’t support the motor and back window. I hope I can get someone to repair it or do it myself. What kind of metal sheet is that?
That's some stuff I got from Home D. but I usually use 20 or 22 gauge A1008 cold rolled sheet from places like Alro Steel or Speedy Metals etc.
Lakeside Autobody thanks for the reply
What gauge metal did u make the patch with? Looks paper thin
That was quite thin but usually you use 22 or 20 gauge. Both are reasonably thick yet easy to work with and cut with tin snips or other body tools.
Think I will fluid film my tailgate.
Thanks! - Never heard of that stuff - always looking for a cheap better rust preventative.
It's definitely not cheap. Really oil is just as good or tranny fluid
is this 20 gauge sheet metal that you are using?
That is 22 but 20 works fine too. 22 is .030" 20 is .035"
What do you vehicles cost you think they would’ve put a little thicker metal in there you know it’s pretty easy to stop right if you build the vehicles in situation they don’t rot there’s a little bit of fourth thought could fix his whole problem
And next year you get to do it all over again when all that bare steel rusts out from the inside of the seam.
There's 3 ways professional body shops fix rust:
1) Combination of Lap and Butt welds. If you insist on strictly butt welds, here's the best way to do them for longevity: czcams.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/video.html
2) Lap joint using structural adhesive or panel bond
3) Fiberglass cloth and fiber reinforced body filler
See Eastwood’s video as to why body shops don’t butt weld then agressively grind off the strongest part of the welds, and attempt to metal finish today’s extremely thin metal: czcams.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/video.html
Not if you soak in oil or cavity wax like you're supposed to do
What gauge steel do you use?
oop, found the answer myself. lol
20 or 22 just in case you still need it :)
What is the thickness of your metal! Thanks
That was 22 gauge but anything from .030" to ,037 is fine (20-22 gauge) Older stuff is much thicker which allows for metal finishing. You don't want to be filing and grinding away on 20-22 gauge as there wont be much left. BTW I believe cars today are built with 22 gauge.
@@LakesideAutobody e
What do you prefer, a Nibler or an air hammer?
Well.... I used to only have the air hammer for years. All cutting was done with the air hammer, hand snips, or cut off wheel. The nibbler comes in handy if you're concerned about making a nice clean cut without distorting the metal at all where as the air hammer distorts it a bit. The nibbler is a bit slower and leaves a ton of little sharp moon shaped pieces of metal that get stuck in your boots - no big deal, just annoying. They both have their advantages but I couldn't live w/o the air hammer - if I had to choose one. I can do the delicate cuts w the cut off wheel or snips. Hope that helps
Lakeside Autobody sure does! I like the compact size of the nibbler. Just bought a 2007 RAV4 and the bottom of the fenders have rust bubbling. Do you ever use a flanger and 3M body adhesive with a metal patch? Thanks, Dave!
@@davekana8388 I've tried 3m adhesive but haven't had good results
What is seem sealer and where do I get it? Is it paintable??
Seam sealer hardens fast, seals joints and seams on cars, and is paintable - I like this stuff: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-2013-Joint-Filler-Compound/dp/B007Q0ZQGK - drys fast
And sandable
Is that a mig or flux cored welder?
MIG - I used flux cored before and was not very impressed - maybe I was just used to MIG
@@LakesideAutobody When you say Mig your just using gas ? My Mig uses the flux core and I don't care for my results.
@@1951Roy Yes - just using gas. I don't like the flux core - If you try gas, you'll love it. Jerry
Roy Vannoy Use gas way better
Did you lose the body line on the front of the tailgate when you put the patch on?
I really enjoy watching your videos.
I borrowed the tailgate from a junk yard to make the video so I just covered the whole body line at the bottom of the panel. It is possible to fold that into the patch or hammer and dolly it into the patch panel before installation but I figured I'd get away with no one noticing - you noticed :) Good job.
@@stevemaclean2009 Thanks - glad you like them. I hope to keep uploading useful content. Happy Holidays :)
@@LakesideAutobody The reason I noticed is because I lost part of the body line arch of the left rear wheel well when I was putting a new panel in on my 2008 Ford Escape. I made the mistake of cutting across the body line instead of keeping the cut above it. Somehow it ended up getting flattened. I tried remaking the inch I lost with filler but wasn't successful and couldn't get the right curve. Any tips you could give me on that would be great!!! I'd show you a pic but can't upload here. Lol
I'll also add that I lost the body line on the existing metal I wasn't replacing and I couldn't get in behind to hammer and dolly it.
What gauge steel do you recommend for auto body repair?
The thickness I like to use is .030 inches or about 20 gauge sheet metal - too thick and it's hard to work with and cut with snips -- to thin and it may rust faster and you'll burn through easier when welding. Basically between 20 and 22 gauge - your preference - Jerry
What no expanding foam and bondo.What kind of hack job is this.🤠🤠🤠
Expanding foam traps moisture. Here's how to prevent rust from coming back after the repair: czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html *****
czcams.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/video.html
@@LakesideAutobody yea it was a joke,badass work,pretty sure that patch will last over 15 yrs.👍👍👍
@@filibertobarrera2912 Sorry about that - glad you liked it.
@@LakesideAutobody 🤭🤭🤭 sorry
@@filibertobarrera2912 No problem at all - you're a good man. Your name reminded me of a great boxing match. Did you ever see this fight? czcams.com/video/iRRVVZjLLJQ/video.html - Barrera was a warrior that night!
Hope you neutralize the rust inside the tail gate & fill it with fishoil or cavity wax to stop it rusting out again.
Here's how a lot of guys do it here in Michigan but you can probably use used vegetable oil if concerned about the environment - cooking grease - etc. I'm not big on the wax because it plugs drain holes - always want good drainage :)
Why ylu did leave gaps between spots
I usually have good luck either way - welding the seam solid or leaving gaps. Remember the seam is always facing down on the inside of the panel - no moisture worries. The bottom is usually not a lap weld - its folded or pinch welded.
Saved? You didn't replicate the factory ridge widthwise on that Dakota tailgate.
You mean the body line? Good eye. If you wanted to recreate that you could lay a piece of tape as a guide and use a file board w/ 36 grit on an angle and dig it out but I got lazy and thought it looked fine w/o it - just a demo gate.
Chris fix : unleash your fiberglass Bondo
That's next - Jerry
Needs lager drain holes.
You're right - also a squirt of oil inside the panel after the job is finished will prevent future rust - once every once in a while works wonders :)
would have been an opportune moment to treat the inside of the panel with rust remover and preventative insuring that this doesn't happen again..
Absolutely - I like to squirt some used motor oil through a few 1/8" holes drilled after the repair - get the bottom of the tail gate nice and greasy.
Shouldnt you have treated the rust remaining inside before patching
The best way to prevent future rust is in the following video - it really does work - czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html Hope that helps you out Mark - it is the cure for sure :)
You left a lot of rust inside that gate if your gonna go though all that work make sure you cut all the rust out or it will come back and i’ll guarantee theres rust in the other side where it wasnt cut! Bottom line just get another gate spend the money now because that rust is coming back
Here's a video on the longevity of this type of repair - this method is very common in Michigan body shops: czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html
That looks like 22 gauge.
22 or 20 gauge sheet metal is good for patch panels - thick enough but still easy to work with.
And a year later that entire seem you didn't fully weld will start popping the bondo up. Should have just panel bonded it to seal the seem it's a waist of time spot welding.
There's 3 ways professional body shops fix rust:
1) Combination of Lap and Butt welds. If you insist on strictly butt welds, here's the best way to do them for longevity: czcams.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/video.html
2) Lap joint using structural adhesive or panel bond
3) Fiberglass cloth and fiber reinforced body filler
See Eastwood’s video as to why body shops don’t butt weld then agressively grind off the strongest part of the welds, and attempt to metal finish today’s extremely thin metal: czcams.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/video.html
Actually after he knocks them down the bondo will keep the seam from popping up. 1/8 inch of filler is very strong
That works but it not the correct way by any means
Here’s why you don’t butt weld everything but use a combination of mostly lap and some butt when necessary.
You cannot guarantee the uniform thickness in your welds so when you grind them flush, you will have many paper thin spots - not only in the weld but the adjacent sheet metal from incidental contact.
Most butt weld advocates always show little square holes that they are repairing and in the real world the holes are blown out rockers, cab corners that are gone, wheel wells that are toast - all irregular shaped repairs - like this video - almost impossible to match the patch perfectly to butt weld it.
Finally, you would lose your job if you ever started butt welding patches in a real body shop, grinding them flush and trying to metal finish. Super slow, waste of grinding discs, and poor quality - I'd rather get a new panel than take the gamble of thin welds and metal.
The only way it would work is those super old cars with very thick sheet metal so that you’d have some thickness to play with.
@@LakesideAutobody I plan on lap welding some 18 gauge floor pans...It is quicker and with two layers of metal maybe a bit stronger. I know you have to seam seal the extra seam but I had other spots to seam seal anyway. I like your work...you really got the old metal clean...I think that is the key to a good weld..
lap welding and not pretreating the metal, you're gonna be redoing that whole job when it rusts out again
See these videos for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html *****
czcams.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/video.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks. good video
@@simcard027 You're welcome - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too
I would rather have a panel lap welded any day
why not remove the paint first so you better see the extent of the rust on the metal ??
Good point - might have to do a video like that some day - Jerry
Thing is, the metal rusts from the inside out, so taking the paint off really isn't going to do anything. From my experience if it's bubbled there's always a rust hole sometimes even if it's tiny