Scale Model Winter Camo & Rusted Tracks Made Easy
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- čas přidán 31. 03. 2023
- Welcome back to 'The Learning Curve', the series where we explore the world of scale model painting as beginners. In this episode, we'll be diving into the world of weathering once again as we tackle rusty tracks and chipped winter camo. I'll take you through my process step-by-step, explaining my techniques in a way that's easy to understand and beginner-friendly. Whether you're looking to improve your skills or just want to try your hand at something new, this video is for you. So come along and let's learn together!
Notice a mistake? Got a better way of doing something? Have a piece of advice you want to share? Let me know right here in the comments or over on my Instagram at / commonostrichmo. .
Thanks to @RRSlugger for making his music available for free use! - Jak na to + styl
Beautiful tank, nice work! I have quite a few full interior 1/35 armor on display I love them!
A very interesting series. I like that experimental approach. I see and learn quite a few things that help me better understand and think about some facets modelling, that might fly under the radar of other, more experienced modelling content creators.
Love the technique for the tracks. I've got a Tamiya build stalled a I was trying to figure out what / how to do the tracks. Splatter time later!😊
I have the same leopard 1 model, it came out super good, but the hardest details were with the wheels, and first time I painted it it got very bad but I repainted them and it came up very satisfied
I never thought to use heat shrink like that what an awesome idea.
Thanks for the tip about using a Blue filter.
I'll be adding that one to my bag of tricks !
Very nicely done tutorial 👍
Dear Mr Ostrich,
Thanks- I was catching up on some of the videos I hadn’t seen from aways ago and was pleased that I did.
Nice work!
Regards,
Z
I love the tip for converting tow cables using wire and heatshrink, gonna use that tip on my future builds, thanks very much.
Nicely done these old Tamiya kits are great value for the money will look forward to the next update
I subscribed to your channel! From Japan
I like your videos, you are average modeller with no fancy stuff. Thats why i watch and try learn everything from you. Could you write brands, colours ect on videos next time?
Btw you making dioramas? I would like to see how make easy diorama build. Or you could just write ant tips for diorama build?
Thank you for the support, and I’m glad you find my videos helpful! I’ll make sure to have the products I use written out in the future. I will be making dioramas, but that won’t for another few weeks.
Loving the camo, I have seen kit painted just waiting on weather in don’t see many of these kits
Nice work! :)
Thanks Toni!
Well done! Looking forward to try this on the tracks of my churchill.
Thanks Felippe! Glad I could help, and good luck!
Thats sick! I love the shapes on the pattern and the way its only applied on the upper hull and turret. And especially the blue at the end made it so much more believable. I'd love to see you build a scenic base for this a some point. I'm pretty new to scale modelling as well and have a French R35 I want to paint in a multicolor scheme, but I dont have an airbrush. Have you ever solely brush-painted a model? And also, what type of airbrush do you like to use?
Bases and dioramas are coming up soon! It’s been something I’ve wanted to try out for a while and I have lots of unique ideas thought up. To answer your question, I have only used the airbrush when doing large surfaces. It applies paint evenly and in thin layers, and allows for a lot of control. I use a Timbertech that I found on Amazon - It was $80 for the brush & compressor set and was 100% worth it. You can totally get amazing results brush-painting, it’s just a different technique than what I prefer.
Great looking model, if you want you can get rubber black paint Tamiya XF85, Vallejo 70.950, and I know Ammo and Mig also have rubber black. Keep up the great work.
@@commonostrichYTCool! Im excited to see what you have in mind. Dont rush yourself friend :) And thanks, I'll keep that on my list if/when I decide I want the upgrade.
Thanks for sharing your work. I wish I found Stynlrez as enjoyable as you; it is difficult to spray consistently or for long periods of time in my experience.
I did have some issues with flow but found that spraying at higher PSI (above 30) and only lifting off of the trigger when the needle is fully forwards helped a lot in that regard. Higher PSI helped to keep the primer moving and paying close attention to my trigger control seemed to keep too much primer from drying on the tip of the needle. Everyone has their own favorite products to use though, and if you have something that works well for you that's all that matters!
good job! 👍
satin coat makes chipping fluid puddle I found,,I matt coat then spray chipping fluid...satin coat later if needed
if the mig is the same as stynelrez, just a lot more money, why not just use stynelrez?
I already had the Mig. I purchased it about 5 years ago when I first tried to get into modeling. I found it recently in a box with a bunch of other old paints.
why always rusty chains ?
I have driven tanks, there was not rusty on the chain, unless the tank is very long on a place (weeks).
if you sandblast something, it will not get rustier.
each small particle grinds almost the chain clean.
I guess it just depends on your environment. I was a tanker and every vehicle I was on had rusty tracks. We never sandblasted our tracks. The rust is also visually appealing. I think the tracks would look boring if they were brand new. I can try exploring some other weathering options that aren’t so rusty in future videos though!
@@commonostrichYT I drove Leopart 2 A4 and M113 the chains have quickly ground clean in the ground, 10 meters forest road and the chains had hardly any rust, they were dirty but not in the form rusty as many modelers portray it.
i drove in high summer with almost desert like ground and in winter with snow and rain. but our tank tracks were almost silver white. if you drive only road it comes to slight rusting. but tracks like they represent night shift and co. is unrealistic. i don't know any army in the world ... except maybe the Russians, who would drive with old rusty chains.
p.s. thanks for the answer 😁😁😁
I guess the Abrams uses an extra-rusty alloy for the tracks 😂 It was probably the month at sea shipping them to Europe. But yes I agree that many modelers over-do the rust effects, most of us tankers take pride in our vehicles! I have lots of great memories of repainting the inside of the turret 😆 Rust effects look cool though, that's a hard one to deny. I love the M113 and always had a great time driving them. I'm planning on making one soon and I'll be sure that the tracks look more true to life 😉
@@commonostrichYT I'm excited and have added you to my subscription list😁😁😁
PSI will always vary. There are so many variables. The 15 to 20 psi is just a dogma of this hobby that people need to let go. Professional airbrush artists constantly change the psi when they stray.
That’s exactly where I got the idea! I watched a video about airbrush artists and they were talking about 40-50 psi and I was surprised. Every setup is different and there are so many variables. Airbrush, needle size, paints, thinners, compressor, humidity, etc. A generic recommendation of 18psi doesn’t cover any of that. It’s something you have to test and figure out for yourself!