Tektronix Type 130 L C Meter Restoration
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 02. 2024
- First off let me say THANK YOU to all that have joined the lab and helped us get there we are today. Content is based off viewer questions and comments. And will continue to be. In this case this upgrade is so we can do some testing as requested by viewers specifically on 10Mhz references. So as always more is on the way.
Ways to support the channel:
Patreon - / zenwizard_studios
Paypal - Zenwizard@Zenwizardstudios.com
In this video we take a look at a Tek LC 130 inductance and capacitance meter. This unit has been on the shelf waiting for the bench for over a year! So time to see what it needs and rebuild it so we can use it for future projects.
** Repair exposes the Tech to mains electric and should only be done by trained personnel. Errors can be fatal. ** - Věda a technologie
It’s always good to see a unit brought back to life. I appreciate the extra time and effort that’s required to video these. Looking forward to the alignment.
Talk about good timing on the video. A buddy of mine sent me home with one of these to try and repair for him last night. So far found a bad filter cap, bad 6be6 tube and a bad pot.
There was a variety of caps used in these units over the years. This one was a later model but some will need more capacitor upgrades then this one. Older units have a bit more paper that needs to be swapped out.
@@ZenwizardStudios thankfully someone had already been in there and replaced with films. I’m working on the older style brown case unit. Unfortunately r68, a 2 watt 50k pot was very bad, so gotta wait for a replacement to show up before moving on.
I'm really wondering one thing. You said that your current inductance meter doesn't go that high as this Tek one but there are new hand held meters that can measure really high inductance and capacitance values. I bought couple of years ago from Voltcraft LCR-300(some other brands sell same thing but with different name) and it's great little tool that can measure capacitance,inductance on five different frequencies. I love vintage stuff but sometimes i buy new instruments cause they are smaller, better,higher measuring range etc...
Not finding fault, but just an idea... For the e-cap between two tubes... It looked as though you might have been able to turn the cap upside down and insert into the plastic ring, to get it out of the heat path.
The der ee de-5000 you have sitting there measures from 20uH to 2000H. Am I missing something?
Thank you for one more great video. One question about nitrogen soldering: would be nice if you can highlight your arguments on the topic. From one side this looks a complete overkill - even Tek did not used such thing despite they could (youtube have nice documentaries about such ceramic silver soldering). Alternatively, today it is very simple to do so: some surplus nitrogen generator and 100-150EUR nitrogen C245 handle (in my case) and off you go. Some videos on youtube also highlight some margin of using nitrogen but does it really worth it? P.S. Tek stuff is really top notch - each unit is a memorial to human craftsmanship. P.P.S. time has come to name the obsession of unneccessary capacitor changing somehow (Carlson obsession or smth.)
I can do a video on that. It was something I was curious to try. The iron is not much of an upcharge compared to a non N2 iron. Main additional part that is needed is the gas regulator. The main cost in the setup is the N2 generation. The cost difference between an N2 iron and non N2 iron is $30.00 (the hand peace) I am on the fence as to N2 being a must have. My current opinion is it is a nice to have but not a critical. I do fine some of the preheating nice and I am faster a the soldering process. But I have had a soldering iron in my hangs for decades without the N2 function.
The lead free solder does behave MUCH better under N2 and I have struggled with lead free solder in the past. My only use for lead free solder in the lab is working on the ceramic strips due to its high silver content. All of the board work is 63 / 37 leaded. So a good quality normal Iron is good.
N2 iron, are you kidding me?? THAT IS NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They are nice to use, when I was working before retirement I used one, but then our test and repair shop had DEEP POCKETS so spending Thousand of dollars on a soldering station was not that uncommon, but my $350.00 HAKKO station works just fine... 🙂
It can have its use cases but it is definitely not required nor would I suggest any one run out an grab one. I had one available and it makes unleaded solder behave better. I use an unleaded solder for the ceramic strips because of the higher silver content. Tek used something at 5% silver content. The highest I have been able to find was 3.5% but that was only in a lead free alloy. Most of the board work in the lab is still done with plane old leaded solder and a good but not fancy iron.
@@ZenwizardStudios, try WBT silver solder, it’s 4% and I use it on all my Tektronix repairs. It ain’t cheap though, but it’s great stuff.