Rough Running Volvo - Fuel Pressure Regulator (240/740/940)
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- čas přidán 27. 04. 2021
- I get to the bottom of the hard starting and rough running of the B230 Redblock.
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I thought the engine was trying to climb out aha. Did seem more a fuel issue to me as well nice video mate
Greetings from across the pond, in North Carolina. Thanks for helpful vids. Just bought a rust free 91 240.
Idle speed up and down. Slight fuel smell under hood, no fuel in vac hose but could smell and see a very slight wet spot at fuel pressure reg seam.
Replaced FPR, fuel odor gone! Tried cleaning air idle control interior, made idle problem worse at 1500 RPM.
Took a chance and replaced air idle control valve w $25 (China made?) unit. Immediate improvement at about 800-900 RPM. Hope cheap part lasts.
Doing light body work, and will re-paint w close to factory dark blue metallic. Will clear coat to protect the inexpensive single stage paint.
Successfully replaced the delicate odometer gear. I LOVE my VOLVO 240 sedan!
Smashing video champ, actually learning on the go here which is nice for a newbie like me
Same, never really been into this sort of stuff before.
All those conversations we had years back about what a motor show/mechanical guide should be, you’ve gone and done it non of this nonsense and skipping the good bits just solid advice and knowledge brother
Thanks bro, very kind, glad you think they are up to scratch. Still, I think they should be taken with a pinch of salt 😃
We're renovating this whole car including paint and engine. Here is the guys climibng like monkeys in the car. Here's a zoomed in video of an angle grinder. Let's hyperfocus on what a turbo is and how it works. Here's the random asian woman who is good at sewing (because ofc she is, she's asian). Here's a new kid on the block, he's the paint specialist. Wow, the car is done!
My B200F had a rough idle, close to stalling. The air intake valve was gunked up from the crankcase breather. Cleaned the valve with carb cleaner and replaced the breather assembly.
Glad you got it sorted! The pcv systems are another usual suspect on these
Wow, thank you so much for this video, I own a 1994 940 simple engine and I’m slowly restoring it to its original shape, this was very helpful and informative!
New sub I'm going to learn a lot from you! I own a 1994 940 non-turbo Volvo
Thanks for the sub! The 940 is a phenomenal car!
These videos are great for novices and these cars are ideal for getting into cars. That sounded dreadful to start with! Great video fella.
Thanks man! Hopefully they're useful to some people, but they're definitely inspired by Uncle Derek's 'not necessarily educational' videos 😄
Thanks, maybe you solved my problem!!!👍
Great video mate.
Keep up the great work my friend.
Thanks mate 🙂
These engines are really particular about spark plug gaps. Our 81 needed exact 29/1000 and the 90 I am still driving prefers 31. A matter of trial and error. Good job figuring out why it was running so poorly. Sounds like a healthy engine. These old tanks are incredible. Mine was bought new by my mother, and he just recently had his 600,000 km service.
That's strange, I guess it's because there's different types of wear/build up over a long time so it slightly affects what gap it wants? Thanks, I've never heard such a smooth Redblock to be honest. That's so great to have it in the family from new, I'm sure you'll see another 600tkm out of it with that level of care!
@@Involvod I have every piece of paper dating back to the day Ma placed the order. Arthur has been well maintained, but he has been used hard. There has been a full ton of cargo in the way back, and not just for short runs. He has been used off road intentionally. Ma thought it would be fun to join an off road club for a run. Lol. Arthur was about 15 at the time, which means Ma was about 75. I am gradually getting him back into fighting trim. I'm getting ready for an 11,000 km trip to visit my brother, and then a 5,100 km trip to my new home when I retire.
The difference in the spark plug gap likely has to do with the 81 having a single side draught Zenith carburetor and condenser ignition and the 91 having fuel injection and electronic ignition.
@@michaeltutty1540 Haha well good on her for doing what she wanted at least 🤣 It's had a great story and sounds like there's still much more to come! Have you thought about putting some videos out? 😃
@@Involvod when Arthur gets up to more adventures, yes. Right now Arthur is my mundane daily driver. He does the daily routine just fine as long as he gets used on the highway enough. I'm still trying to figure out how a car that 1,500 kilos manages to enjoy cruising at 130 km/h
Great video
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Why do I suddenly want to buy a Volvo 😁 quality Video buddy loving the series
Don't mate, once you do it's impossible to go back 😃
Not got one personally but working from a car , one of these would be great for my round.
Too thirsty though, would use about twice the fuel of an equivalent diesel 😄
@@Involvod Maybe a 245 Diesel? I don't know about Europe, but in Canada the diesel had the interior of a GL with the wheels of a base DL but with trim rings added. Of course, getting the original size of tire the Estate takes is impossible. A 185R14 just does not exist, and the 195/75R14 is hard to find. I was running 205/70R14, and gave up looking for good tires. I got a set of 15 wheels off a GLT/Turbo and run 206/65R15 Michelin Defender tires with an H speed rating. So far, very happy with the combination.
Guten Morgen,
Du kannst dir nicht vorstellen, wie sehr mir dein CZcams-Kanal hilft. :) :) :)
Ich möchte Ihnen von einem Problem berichten, das ich mit meinem Benzin-Volvo 245 aus dem Jahr 1993 habe (elektronische Einspritzung).
Es passiert mir sowohl bei warmem Motor als auch bei kaltem Motor, dass der Motor beim Beschleunigen nicht sofort bereit ist, es gibt einige Unsicherheiten. Manchmal kommt es sogar zu kleinen Fehlzündungen.
Beschleunige ich hingegen sehr langsam, dreht der Motor problemlos hoch. Ich würde gerne wissen, ob Ihnen das schon einmal passiert ist und was es sein könnte.
Beim Abziehen des Saugschlauchs vom Druckregler merke ich keinen Unterschied. Es ist normal?
Vielen Dank und einen herzlichen Gruß aus Italien.
hope you've change your engine mounts too! good vid!
Thanks!
Engine mounts are readily available and not expensive. There is a company in the US, IPD, that has replacements made of a different material. One big cause of failure is the position of the oil filter in relation to the right side mount. The oil spills on it, and that weekend it. Once it goes, the left mount and transmission Mount soon follow.
hello, I just got my father's Volvo 240 gl back and I did a complete service and I have the same problem as you, the engine is shaking and there are holes when accelerating and it doesn't idle ... I changed the ignition, the filters, the fuel pump is running... I can't find the fuel pressure regulator, it's not visible like it looks. I have a 1988 240 gl b200e engine. pzux can you help me or can I call you to show you my problem? I watch all your videos and they have helped me a lot so far or I don't know what to do anymore. Thx
Bonus! a free socket rubber :D
It's surprising the amount of times you find bonus tools on vehicles!
@@Involvod Any gold sovereigns under the seats :D
@@englishgrandad3298 No usually just alot of grime as they are usually at least 25 years old. Did find a beavis and butthead cd once, that was nice
Good day mi Volvo 740 89 intercool has so many problems with the injection system and burn one of the two fuelp pump, no mechanic here in my town have an idea whats going on change twice the crank sensor Map sensor, distributor cap, ignition system and both fuel pump are dead the sensors sound find at this point I pay a lots of money and nothing it was liking fuel but now is no sound in any of the fuel pumps HELP PLEASE
Another great video. I swapped out my fuel pressure regulator and my 240 is still struggling to start after it’s sat all night. Once it warms up, it runs smooth. Any ideas on where I should check next?
Thanks! The next thing I would check is the coolant temp sensor, my money is on that, but if it's not the issue let me know :)
My car allso same your prb. I charge every thing but no ok
Does a 1993 Volvo 240 have a cold start fuel injector? My ‘93 has an issue on the first start of every day where it starts, the engine heaves/chugs and then it stalls. I changed the MAF and my mechanic replaced the vacuum hoses and gave it back to me yesterday (hot day) and today I went to start it (24 degrees cooler outside) and the same thing happened. I’m not mechanically experienced so I’m trying to research what it could be before leaving it with the mechanic again. I can’t find anything about ‘93s having a cold start injector and after it starts and I hold the gas pedal down it will run and start fine for the rest of the day all day.
Confused and frustrated it’s been like two months of this ahhhhhh
If it has the LH2.4 injection system then it should have one. Did you try the coolant temperature sensor as well?
@@Involvod How do I verify if it’s the LH2.4? It’s all original so I’d assume so but I’d like to make sure before proceeding.
I have not checked the coolant temp sensor but that is on my list I’ve written out today. The needle for the temperature sometimes drops while driving so I’m sure it’s worth replacing and could be related. I did run the morse code reader and neither on terminals 2 or 6 did the coolant temp sensor code present.
I checked the engine codes again and the MAF code went away but the 3-2-2 code is still there so I’m wondering if the MAF I got is a bad one (I thought I was buying a good one I chose a new Volvo MAF but a lot of people online are saying the new ones are garbage) or if the wiring harness has a fault in it? We previously had to clean the connection to the MAF and put deoxit or we-40 on the connection from wiring harness to plug for the car to work). I’m a total beginner at this stuff so sorry if my methods are wrong.
@@iridiumvalkyrie9017 your MAF part number should end in 016. The temp sensor is one of the most common failures that cause cold start issues. It's the one for the ECU that's under the cylinder 3 part of the inlet manifold, the sensor closer to the front of the engine is just for the temp gauge. If the wiring to the MAF is good it could be that you got a bad sensor, it's true even new ones can be problematic. It's also worth disconnecting the battery for half an hour to clear the codes and reset everything for the new MAF if you haven't tried that yet
@@Involvod MAF is good. Changed CTS, O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay, cleaned the throttle body, IACV, ignition system checks out, now after changing the regulator the car only starts after cleaning the spark plugs and opening the throttle. The checked the plugs again and three were fouled so I’m thinking it’s the fuel injectors but no mechanics will acknowledge the capacity for these injectors to ever fail and won’t even look at the car. I’m so frustrated. There were three quarts of gasoline in the oil. Something is dumping fuel into the engine and we changed the regulator sooooo
My 2.0GL 89 240 is getting less than 20mpg but I don’t have that regulator or a MAF - need to get slightly better MPG
That must mean it's the k-jet system?
@@Involvod yeah - it’s got the fuel distributor and the big round tube and electronic dizzy
I’ve been recommended checking the cold start injector
@@problemchild1976 those are notoriously difficult to work on, I've never had the pleasure, but I have heard about problems with the cold start injectors so could be a good place to start 🤞
You need the new engine mounts.
Definitely! 😄
Can this fuel pressure regulator fail without fuel coming out? I smell fuel and I'm still having a no start condition and I removed the hose and it smelled of gas but was dry. I've changed so many other things (CTS) and I can't find a cold start injector on my car (1993) so I think I want to replace this and see what happens. When we changed the oil it was overflowing with gasoline.
Edit: spelling
Changed the fuel pressure regulator and the car only starts when you clean the spark plugs and hold the throttle open or it dies. Now no mechanic will change my fuel injectors because after starting it after cleaning the spark plugs and changing the fuel pressure regulator three plugs were fouled and it runs like garbage (rough, hesitation, smokey) but now I’m running into dogmatic mechanics who refuse to look or change the injectors because “they never fail”. Four months and still no car.
Did you find a Solution? Im having the exakt Same Problem
@@justpower2185 hey, I did! It was the MAF (but there wasn't a code for it, there were no codes). I found a guy who works on the old redblocks and he put in a BOSCH known working MAF and it's been perfect ever since (four months so far). He insisted that I can't use a remanufactured MAF or an aftermarket and it has to be BOSCH original.
I also changed the fuel pressure regulator after watching Sledge'a videos cause smelling fuel is a good enough reason to change it and he said it's a common failure for these cars at these ages.
I felt stupid but happy because of how simple these cars really are.
I hope you get your tank sorted ASAP.
@@iridiumvalkyrie9017 thank you very much for the Quick response😀
@@justpower2185 of course! We are all in this together 😃
So noisy and vibrating!..i have a volvo 740gle,1884
It began to leak oíl for both sides on the Red Block but i don,t know exactly from where..could be the pcv valve?