Nissan Leaf Powertrain Disassembly (Teardown to EM57 Motor)
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- čas přidán 12. 03. 2020
- I take apart a 2013 Nissan Leaf driveline - the Charger/Converter, the Inverter, Motor, and Gearbox.
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For those curious, the motor by itself weighs about 130 pounds.
The inverter weighs about 40 pounds.
The gearbox is about 58 pounds.
The charger/DCJunction box is about 70 pounds.
Total unit altogether was around 300 pounds.
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For people asking about a clutch, keep in mind that on a tractor like the one I'm converting right now, the TRANSMISSION is DIFFERENT than that of a car. It also powers the PTO and the transmission does NOT have synchros. For more on why the tractor would need a clutch, please see this video: czcams.com/video/0Y5jmwD6rOY/video.html
Ben, The ball bearings on the leaf motor are probably not designed to withstand lateral thrust load like you will be imposing upon them when a clutch is fitted.
You may need to install a separate thrust bearing mounted into the adapter plate behind the flywheel to oppose the thrust from the clutch release bearing every time the clutch is depressed, or the motor bearings may wear out prematurely.
Right. I’d plan on adding another bearing to deal with weight and thrust from the flywheel/clutch.
I’m looking at fitting one of these to a Land Rover - the clutch and gear box are definitely required for that.
Thanks for the great instructional. As I'm just staring researching converting my 72 VW bus I'm trying to learn as much as I can about available options, so this is very useful.
Comparing the current 1600cc engine (60hp, 87 ft/lbs of torque) to the leaf motor (107 hp, 210 ft/lbs) it seems like a good option. I can get a leaf drive train locally for under $3k, whereas I would have to import an alternative such as an ac50 motor at a cost in excess of $6k, so if the leaf drive train comes with the inverter, charger etc that can be repurposed then that appears to be an even better bargain.
@@joe8172 I think a Leaf drivetrain is a GREAT option for an old rear-wheel drive VW!
I'd love to convert my tractors to electric for farm work so I'm quite enjoying this series. Great teardown.
Look at all those odd shapes! This thing is a marvel of modern casting technology.
Great video. Very clear that you really wanted the audience to fully understand how the drive train went together (or comes apart!). Well done.
Great Video! I never seen a disassembled motor like that! Congratulation! Very neat & clear explanation! Thanks
I'm inspired by your project. I have been considering to use the Leaf as a donor for my DIY Car conversion but have been a little intimidated by people I have seen trying to use the entire electronics system. Breaking it down like this to use it more as a simple components system on my project would help with my fear to get started. Excited to see your story continue!
Thats really cool, I know of many dead tractors with hopeless engines in them that could use this kind of life. I look forward to how this turns out!
This really was a great disassembly. Every single screw and cable was mentioned, couldn't have been better.
Very interesting and instructive video. I was aware of the hardware complexity included within my Leaf and now I appreciate it better. Excellent video and many thanks.
awesome an adapter plate frame seems the way to go Thanks for the video
Incredibly well done video, thank you so much! Bought a 2017 stack yesterday and tore it down today. Thanks to your video it was amazingly easy!
Protip: If you don't have secure torx bits, just use small vice grips, works like a charm.
Great Project Ben! Congratulations!
Thanks for sharing this! It is really amazing 😊
Thanks Ben👍 That was so cool 😎
Awesome video Ben! I'm considering Leaf motor myself for a conversion project, good to know it all can be split into separate sections! Many thanks!
same thing here
So funny...I've been watching you for years now. You're the EV version of Norm from this old house 😹 master craftsman level!
Great video, really enjoyed it and have learned so much thanks for the insight
great video, presentation and explanation mate! well done!
Oh dear, I was going to sell my old Leaf..... Now I am tempted to take it apart! Very interesting video. Thanks
Awesome video! Very thoughtful and informative breakdown. Hope to swap one of these motors into a project car or two of my own one day
very informative and motivates me to convert my mini minor to electric
Thanks to a good video👍, it's an eye opener looking inside an ev!
nice tutorial. can't wait. the magnetic bolt dish was killer on the aluminium top cover
Hey Ben, I have been watching all your vlogs. They are quite impressive and honest. Keep up the best info. Enjoy the best health.
Thank you!
Brilliant Video cheers sandy
Great video!
As an owner of a 2013 leaf (still going strong with 10 bars) that was pretty cool. I don't have any plans of tearing it down but that was pretty cool and very informative.
This was a great watch, thanks. About to potentially buy my first EV (which will be a Leaf) and I was curious as to how these things worked. Pretty simple stuff as it turns out - I can see why they're so reliable, everything sealed apart from the cooling system.
"These Torx bits are the best bits for voiding warranties." haha!
Nice work you have tuning tractor 🔥👍👍
Very good work
It looks like you had a blast doing this⚡️🔌
I won't deny that it's fun to take things apart! Really neat seeing how all of this is designed to work together and interconnects!
Top job!
I'm on my second Nissan Leaf, a 2016 following a 2013. The simplicity of the electrical circuitry to the motor, the rugged stacked modular housings and the simple single reduction gear are an engineering masterpiece. Nissan has kept the 2013 second generation design for good reason.
I agree. I was rather impressed with how all this comes together. Well designed.
But those batteries....
I had a 2013 that was rear ended. I was only getting 40 miles of range so it was a good thing. I took the insurance money and got a 2015 Leaf. Now I get 88 miles and I can fast charge with CHademo.
@@dlewis8405the upgrade to 6.6kW level 2 charging was very welcome.
A lot of people have 5-7kW excess solar during the day making regular range topup from excess solar easy
Add in the 6.6kw making overnight charging viable for 100km or more daily use, the leaf becomes a very viable daily commuter
Great stuff, as usual, Ben. Thanks for sharing and documenting your work!
I hope I’m not repeating something someone else said but, have you considered stripping the cylinder head and all of the rotating assembly and just attaching the leaf motor to the front of the original tractor motor?
Have it drive the crank.
It should be very easy to couple the Leaf shaft to the front pulley of the tractor.
It will add a few inches to the front of the tractor but will also keep that much needed ballast out front so you aren’t doing wheelies all the time 😂.
And will save you the mess of trying to make a tube front end that can take the needed abuse via stress that those attachments and accessories are bound to subject the tractor to.
I see this was from 3 years ago so I’m guessing my suggestion will be at best, 3 years late and a dollar short, but maybe you’ll do another one and give it a try. Either way, great well paced, well explained, and clearly lit video!!!!!
Amazed how clean your hands are. Greaseless!
I LOVE how much cleaner EVs are than gas engines!
Ahh Electric Tractor 👍😃. I was born on a smaller farm so.. Run an electric tractor feels like a thing on my bucket list. By the way I have 2 electric cars and solar cells for almost 10 years now 🎉
4:40 great unintended pun!
thanks for the information, i want to change in a DATSUN for this motor
Fantastic.😊
A few years back 3M talked about cooling EV batteries with a high-dielectric fluoroether called Novec 7200. This stuff is VERY heavy- one gallon weighs 12 pounds- and it costs $520 per gallon.
Excellent
For bolts you do not want to drop, if you put a few pieces of electrical tape inside and around the edge of the socket, the bolt will then stay snug in the socket.
Blu Tack also helps too, especially a blob on the end of pozi/phillips screwdriver :-)
I tape a small powerful magnet on the socket if there’s room. And have been known to put it inside the socket also.
Great project! I plan to do something simililar with my tractor (Rapid 1750). I drive a Nissan e-nv200, which has exaclty the motor you have taken apart. It is actually pretty a convincing drive train in that car. Please keep us updated while moving forward with your project. I'm really wonder how you will manage to get that motor running again with all those controllers which might be needed to get it working again ...
Wow wow wow
Good teaching for boys
You may want to try putting a small thin magnet on the end of your ratchet and extension, to hold bolts in the socket! I also put one on my screwdriver when needed, to hold screws,. A tiny neodymium magnet is very strong!
Nice
Looking to do a riding mower soon. Me1004 is the best I can figure. This project is nice man. Check out tractor supply if you have never done so. Simply walk thru the store. it is to tractors as guitar center is to guitars. (Way more than just tractors/guitars)
Very informative video, Thanks
BenjaminNelson For structural support go get the side channels off a super w6 tractor I think they would fit on those big bolts at the bell housing. Adapt the channels to the front end.
I ended up getting frame rails from a Farmall model H. The rails bolted right on. I’ll just need to make an adapter plate to the front axle.
Amazing video! I was even more amazed by your tape measure. Imperial only? Never seen one of those before!
Different parts of the world maybe? I'm in Canada and most people I know still use imperial only, it's still majority imperial on store shelves, probably much more so in the States.
@@Thoughmuchistaken Yeah, here in the UK we use both imperial and metric, though metric is the standard for any type of engineering, design etc. Imperial is used by the older generation, and when ordering beer (in pints). Some grocery shops display food in kg and lb but not many. Roads are in miles and yards. It's a bit of a mess really!
Hello, Benjamin! Great video on disassembly of this motor. Could you do a full parts list for your build? I'd like to do something similar, but I'm not sure how to set up the batteries. Thanks!
Спасибо!
Believe it or no it is really a good engine an havey duty fully
After watching this project, I have decided to locate this be a great motor to experiment on a idea of making a Goldwing I have into a electric vehicle. I think though I would keep the transmission though only need one side of the output shaft thinking I could take a half part of the shaft and place a alternator on it or generator possibly recovering the power back into a separate battery module then once the main pack is empty switch it to the reserve pack then the generator would charge the main pack.
Thank you Ben really appreciate these videos, total newb here, I thought the charger was behind the back seat? yet you say it is right there on the very top
Ah, good catch. Yes, the charger is in back, but what's on top is related. The very top of the entire Leaf unit is a junction box. It's where the DC/DC converter is and the charger, CHAdeMO, and a few other bits all meet together.
Thanks for sharing this year down, very interesting and fascinating.
I also like your project,
Will the Nissan motor have enough torque to drive the tractor, won't you still need the reduction gears to prevent motor from over overheating due to stressing?
I assume you are also going to use the Nissans ECU to control the whole thing.
I read the video title "Nissan Leaf Blower" somehow...
With careful use of a small flat blade screwdriver you can push down the locking tang on those white cable clamps to release the loom without having to cut them and they can be reused. The more you save the less you have to pay for!
EBay has a broad range of plastic fittings to suit engine bay wiring etc has surprised me when searching
Very methodical, careful and informative disassembly. Quick question - I've considered using two of these motors in tandem connecting them using a bespoke machined reduction drive "gearbox". Would I need to use one or both of the inverters (I guess I'd only need one of the chargers)? Regards.
Good video. Would love to see the inside of that transmission as well.
I'd love to take apart the gearbox and film it, I just want to be confident that I can put it back together correctly before I take it apart!
It amazes me how well you read Japanese.
Google Translate is our friend.
If there is room, you can put a small but strong magnet inside your socket or sometimes, if the magnet is strong enough, you can put it on the extension. Hope this saves somebody from an afternoon of bolt fishing.
Great video, thank you. It would be interesting to know the weights of the Charger, Inverter, Motor and Gearbox and of course, the weight of the entire assembly
very very informative, what is the input 3phase voltage of the motor? where can I find the datasheet for the inverter and the motor?
I have that same screwdriver
Despite my troubles ingesting your mis-use of the word 'charger' I think your content is valuable and I thank you for posting it :)
Can you do a video with measurements of weight and dimensions of each major component after you split it? I think this would be valuable information for others following.
Hi there, great video thank you! I wanted to know if anyone out there knows how to modify a 2014 Leaf so the airbags and the battery cutoff don't engage on impact - I want to be able to keep driving in emergency scenarios😉does a simple airbag module disconnect do the job or is more required? Any Leaf gurus out there?
First video I see.
Thanks for letting me see.
I am looking for information to make power adds on a diesel car.
Can you point in the direction of information that describes the possibility of using a used battery and arranging it so that it becomes 48 volts?
At the same time, the better should be the energy source for a 4X4 poweret trailer for the car.
Thanks in advance.
The main problem in using a Leaf motor with a clutch is that one needs a very thick backing plate to bolt the gearbox onto, and there are some concerns that the Leaf’s engine spindle may not be strong enough to support a flywheel some distance out from the motor.
I am therefore considering using the transfer case (without the cover) as the spacer, since it already has the holes drilled in the right places for the motor and since I could then retain the inner bearing, to provide more support for the new flywheel flange. I would remove the gear wheels and reposition the anti-static device.
I would then cut the first gear assembly in half, attach the flywheel flange to the cut off end, slide the new assembly over the splined motor spindle, and use a locating pin to stop it falling off (not that it could move far once the MG’s gearbox is attached).
I worry that the flywheel might shake, since there is likely to be some free play in the spline supporting the flange assembly. Any thoughts?
And the answer to my worry is: add a second bearing in the backing plate, near the outer end of the new flywheel flange (but before the flange itself).
hi thanks for all information . can you run the motor with direct DC volt about 150 volt in the power port
Hi Ben, just wondering if you have the overall dimensions of the full stack recorded. I'm planning an ev conversion myself (see my channel for the very early stages) and I'm wanting to see how a leaf motor + inverter + charger might fit in it new engine bay.
Holly crap now that's cool I like to have one of those motors to just make a generator out of it.
I love the simplicity of EV engines. Can't wait for when they come up with maybe super high range batteries or be able to fast charge in 15 minutes.
Technically, they're EV motors, to be pedantic.
HOLY ads in video BATMAN! Dude with respect I like you and if you check out my stuff we work on similar stuff. Just made a Electric Gokart for my son for example. But your ads every 4 minutes in your videos is the reason I never forward links to you even if you have the info. Nice electric Ranger build I got one in the works soon myself.
An engine is a system for converting something from one form to another. It’s very broad, covering not just types of energy transformation (be it chemical or electrical into kinetic), but also any other transformation - stars, nuclear reactors, your digestive tract, plant leafs, even mathematical formulae are engines. So, the scrap yard were correct.
Interesting and useful video, though!
Just put it into 1k likes😁
UUH!! im so close to bying an engine and fiddeling with it.. i found a 2019 do i need the charger? it comes without it. I need 190V batterypack pack? Ill put in in my boat.. I wonder if i can configure the motor to run low rpm high tork because the propeller is rated to a rathe rlow RPM to not cavitate and destroy the propeller.. Thanks for a great video :)
How tall is the unit? How tall is it with the charger off? Trying to figure out if it would fit in my project. Thanks.
Very informative and easy to understand video. I want to make a hybrid pickup. Could I use two of these, one as a generator and the other as a motor?
I don’t see why not.
Many hybrids have a generator, motor, and wheels connected by planetary gearing.
Ben in your opinion what's the cheapest way to drive the Nissan motor? control board and original inverter? use a prius inverter with open inverter board? some other inverter?
I wonder the voltage output if you put a multimeter on the terminals while you spin the motor by hand?
Ce x rpm
how do you discharge any power that may still be in the system, how do you know you arnt going to hort out or shock yourself if the ratchet touches something at the same time your unbolting a connector?
22:35 oh what its a little brushless motor haha
This would be a very interesting setup for a VW beetle or anything air-cooled from that era..even a 911
I have a friend who works on a lot of old VWs. I've often thought this would be a GREAT setup for that type of car.
A friend's wife has an old VW van that I'm trying to convince to convert to electric!
Benjamin, interesting you called it a 6.6 kilowatt charger when the input rating is in apparent power, not real (true) power. Looks like they're including the reactive component of power for the input.
Nice, I've got one, little later version but still. :) The "snapping to place" by the perminent magnets is called cogging. It's what perpetual motion idiots can't get their heads around. ;)
@jason crigger Silly me
is the dc to dc convertor part of the on board 6.6 kw charger or its a separate item in Nissan leaf ?
cool,ox
Amazing how similar in shape and dimension the package is to an ICE.. I guess that is for production efficiencies..?
I was surprised by that too - on the one hand it looks very much like they're adapting the traditional ICE layout mindset to EV design, as you say with production in mind, but on the the other hand, having all those connections short and near to where they're needed makes perfect sense - less wires, less losses, better reliability - unlike say on Teslas where it looks like they just jam bits in wherever there's space with long HV and high current wires sprawled around throughout. On the other hand I'm wondering how much weight they could shave off by using less cast components and more composites - guess it's a cost thing (and robustness if using plastics...)
Unsurprising considering the LEAF is based off the Versa.
Would be cool to see someone convert a large FWD car like a Buick Lucerne using one of these units
Nifty, thanks for sharing this Benjamin! Do you have any plans for an ESC? Just putting it out there, but I think it might not be very suited for this, but there is another awesome Benjamin on the googletubes, the VESC creator from Sweden. His VESC's are pretty special, and the tool for these tiny inverters is pretty sweet to play around with. Maybe it can have some utility for this project, although you would need something much more beefy to drive it. And for that I may have another useful tip, there is this cool Irish dude that makes electric BMW's in his spare time, he is called Damian, and he has designed amongst other things a circuit board that allows to control Tesla inverters, he has also messed around Leaf inverters.
Then again, neither of these are probably new to you, but hey it's worth mentioning! Have a good one, and stay away from that virus thingy ;)
I'm familiar with Damien Macguire's channel. If I use this motor for the tractor project, I'll probably reuse the Leaf inverter, but will have to modify it slightly to take a standard throttle input. There are third-party boards and hacks to do that.
Any comment on somehow reusing the 3phase motor connection side of the inverter to charge the car with three phase power?
Use a RC model ESC to drive the motor! Just 3 more and you can build a quadcopter :-)
Do you know of one rated for over 200A?
@@BenjaminNelsonX No, really, I would be interested to see if it would move on 4S LiPo and a hobby ESC. A quadcopter ESC would probably not work, those are not for low speeds.
@@beforebefore Seems reasonable. Try it nevertheless :-)
@@BenjaminNelsonX mgm compro makes some wild stuff
@@kraklakvakve No, you either burn up the ESC instantly, or you get nothing at all. Like beforebefore said, their frequency is too high to be suitable for use on automotive electric motors, so you'll need a lot of control to that. The frequency saves them because the reactive inductance resistance increases with frequency, and if the frequency drops, then the ESC will basically be short-circuiting itself with such low-resistance coils in the motor, and then you have no more ESC. Unless it protects itself.
Good luck trying to get 160kW from a breadboard-sized ESC. With 320V, you'll need 500A _minimum_
Are you going to use the rest of the parts from the leaf? I don't see why you would use the inverter and charger that came with it, even in you don't need the gearbox.
Hi Ben I want to use a Leaf motor to power my Unimog 404 . Would I need a clutch ?
The packed the whole thing in a comvustion engine format hh well done. There is a lot of Aluminium oxydation why? Cleaning with acid?
We use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter for melting ice. That’s notorious for causing corrosion on the underside of cars.
That’s kind of near that it is all in one package
👍