Protect your phone with the YN tested and approved Rokform case! glnk.io/3rj1/yammie-noob Code “YN25” is 25% off! Shop for all your gear, parts and tires at shop.yammienoob.co $1 = 1 Entry to win our giveaway bikes!
@@skatman3872 are they really I only speak when I know my facts just because everybody says gsxr is a gixxer Suzuki says other wise ps if this gets taken down know I didn't do anything wrong and its just a simple request and there is also no false advertising
Yammie🍠 LISTEN - The synth wave music was 10 times better than this ear 👂 piercing repeating 2009 free trash CZcams music bro come on don’t do this to us😟😔😞😒🥺😢😭😤🙄🤢🤮
I love it My 2005 750 Yea just clicked 36000+ miles under me Not pretty right now but runs sweet. If you want to offload that 1000 I'll do any vid blogging about it's "new life" with me 😁 Forever 🥰
The secondary throttles are for increasing startup idle and smoothing the throttle inputs. A common mod is to remove the buttery plates which gives a more direct feel.
I owned my 2004 750 K5 for about 12 years, it has a lot of similarities. This bike is behaving similarly to mine for engine braking. It REALLY fluctuates engine braking whether or not you're in the power band. The bike sounds great and like a normal suzuki from that era. When I want to have more engine braking, I'll keep it a gear lower. Last thing i'd check is whether or not you're using stock tooth amounts on the sprockets. These bikes really don't seem to like having power commanders in them unless you're doing a lot of ECU tuning. Nearly every time I listen to someone talking about reliability problems with GSX-R, they've put a power commander in it and don't store it in a garage. Awesome bike!
I wouldn’t recommend Rokform mounts. It will kill your camera on your phone and make it shake. It’s a nice mount but needs a dampener like quad lock sells.
Question guys. In this video in the background there is a picture I've seen many times of the MotoGP bikes all turning in a line where did you get that picture I can't seem to find it anywhere and it is my favorite of all time
It was taken from the MotoGP Assen in 2013. You can't see it in that picture, but Marquez was actually in the lead. In fact, there's a picture of Marquez running in front of Rossi.
I'm not a motorcycle mechanic, but in cars that second valve on the throttle body is an idle air control valve. Since small angle adjustments in the large throttle plate give you bigger adjustments in air volume than you would want at low rpms, they put in a second smaller valve that allows a small amount of air through and is often used to adjust the idle speed. Some cars even have a computer controlled solenoid on this valve to adjust the idle for various temperature and altitude changes.
You did the right thing taking the power commander off. I hate them bloody things. Every bike we had in at our garage, with a power commander, ran like crap. We took all of them off. The clutch issue is probably just worn out, burnt plates - it was a track bike afterall. Anybody that's ever said a gsxr 1000 is slow, is obviously just an Internet try hard bitch, that's likely never even rode a scooter
+1 on removing piggyback systems. I had both a PC5 and a Bazzaz unit crapout on me. Although still use the traction control+quick shifter of the bazzaz on my track ZX10R , works fine but stripped the fueling wires/connectors off. Those piggybacks work fine for a wile but they eventually start acting weird and make you loose your mind trying to figure out what the hell is going on (not knowing its the cause). Flash tune for life now.
still rocking the full Bazzaz FI TC QS WITH NO PROBLEMS on my K6 GSXR 1000! love the tuneability of the unit. so easy to adjust fuel tables and map way better than dynojet. even got the TC adjuster switch and athe Fuel Map switch A and B toggle feature for 91 premium and Mr12 on B map
@@calikid7116 Yeah the TC with +5/-5 adjuster on it rocks (and the edit table per throttle%, rpm and gear). That's why I kept the spark plug connector but removed the fueling portion. Its ''THE TC'' for all of us plebs that couldn't afford the next gen bikes with flipping 6 axis IMU sensors and more processors power than my gaming PC. Could even probably mine bitcoins when not using them :p
It’s probably having issues engine Braking because of the clutch . They have a slipper clutch ( back torque limiting clutch) and if you’re having other clutch issues I’d start there. I’d check that you don’t have warped steels. Also check that it has free play down at the clutch pusher. It’s behind the big hex nut on the clutch cover. If that’s not adjusted correctly the clutch will not fully engage and cause it to slip. Don’t just check for free play at the lever.
Literally attempted to buy a Rokform mount but they don't offer a Samsung Galaxy 20 FE case. Trying to support the channel! Keep up the great work! Love your daily videos. Keeps me fired up to get out there on 2 wheels.
My kawi had a similar problem, i had to hold the throttle at like 2k for a couple minutes til the bike had "warmed up" and everything had been running for a little. I ended up pulling the throttle body off and cleaning it out, then adjusting the idle like spite did with that gxxr and it fixed it
Yam! Stva is a common problem on gixxers. Usually you'll get an FI light though if it has a problem, but still it can act funny. Although a common "mod" is to take the secondary butterfly valves out, but I wouldn't. They are there for a purpose. One of them is to give it more torque on lower revs. Taking the valves out is more acceptable on track bikes 'cause you eon't use the lower revs anyways. Plus i would check the positions and readings of the main and secondary tp sensors. Plus no2 suzuki ecu's can be easily tuned to a certain degree, a laptop and an SDS could do wonders. Plus no3, if the clutch microswitch is hotwired (let's say, you don't want the hassle of pulling the clutch in to start the bike) it'll be functioning with a reduced power output. You could only use like roughly 75% of all the juice the bike has to offer. Hope i could help. Greetings from Hungary ✌️
It's not the gixxer in general, go to the sprocket cover where the shaft is for clutch slide off and change degree on it creating slack for better adjustment
When it comes to sport bikes that's about as pretty as they come, and it sounds nice too. Once all the issues (older bike) are sorted out it's going to be an amazing give a way machine. I'm 70 years old, so not good for me, ... but I still know a great looking bike when I see one.
Check your throttle position sensor, may need adjusting, super simple to do. Or you could have similar issue to what I had, my issue was at wide open throttle but the issue I found on my k7 was the mounting points on the tps had been broken, just cracked but this was enough for the sensor to not know the actual position of the butterfly.
Suzuki often didn't set TPS as accurately as the bike likes from the factory. They also wear out, eventually giving funny readings in the range they have been used most. Correct TPS, balance the throttle bodies, then set idle.
If your referring to the top and lower flaps in the throttlebody‘s, the top flaps that are at-rest open are the choke flaps the lower flaps are the throttle flaps that are attached to the throttle cable/throttle cam, if everything is taken apart and you turn the key on the choke flaps should swipe closed and swipe open as a self check
So I’m not a gixxer guy but my FZ8 had secondary throttles like that that where computer controlled, which supposedly helped with low end torque and stuff. Not sure if that is what is going on with this bike but might be what those are.
Compression test for engine braking issue? That bike has enough power to hide that it's struggling during acceleration, but would have a harder time hiding things when stuff is going backwards.
I have an 06 that had same clutch “jerking” at take off. Never knew when it it was going to do this slip/jerk but is very annoying. They come factory with a slipper clutch that’s is 2-piece on the backside of the basket. I recommend replacing it with a Brock’s clutch mod SKU:270344 design for this very reason. While you’re at it go ahead and replace springs with Brock’s SKU:270331. Worth every penny and safer.
It’s the throttle body actuator, my shop removed the secondaries at first believing it would help but the bike was having a throttle issue still, then they replaced the throttle body actuator still leaving the secondaries off and boom baby bike is perfect now
Clutch cover has a big o nut on it. Try twisting that one way or another. Fuel issues are they happening at warm to high engine temp: maybe a failing fuel pump.
@Yammie Noob The upper / secondary throttle valves are for the secondary injectors, and come into operation after 6000 k to provide additional fuel injection for better performance. If you choose to cancel the secondary throttle valves in parallel with removing the connector from the TPS sensor, then the engine will run on all 8 injectors all the time and you will have a very unstable idle speed + when the engine is cold and will be turned on, the ECU will not be able to make the correct air-petrol mixture when the engine choke is engaged at start-up and risk to flood the engine / spark plugs after starting. As a personal opinion, it would not be very wise to cancel the secondary throttle valves, they are meant to help the engine to have a stable idle speed. As for the slippery clutch that you declare is not strong enough, it can be adjusted mechanically depending on how much to intervene or how little (according to the preferences of each individual). It is adjusted from the three screws that are located in the clutch housing and can be accessed through the small investigation cover in the clutch cover. These three screws form an equal triangle around the central clutch lever, you will surely find on youtube clips about the clutch adjustment for the 2005 - 2006 gsxr 1000, 750 & 600 ( they are all the same more or less ) . I hope these explanations help you adjust this motorcycle gem. Please excuse my writing, i'm not from Billy Microsoft's land :)) Greetings from Romania.💪
@@Giorgiochangretta11 Hi! I had exactly the same problem you described with a 2006 kawasaki 636. The throttle position sensor (T.P.S.) broke down and kept my secondary throttle in an almost closed position, so the motorcycle did not turn more than 4000 - 5000 k regardless of the gear I was in. I removed the secondary throttle valves and removed the plug from the T.P.S. , and apparently the problem was fixed, but the cold starts were a bit problematic, in the sense that the motorcycle tended to flood with gasoline, and after the engine started, the idle speed fluctuated, and there was a strong smell of unburned gas. At the same time, in full acceleration, the motorcycle emitted black smoke, which, going hand in hand with unburned gases, meant that there was a rich mixture of gasoline. After about a year of riding the motorcycle in this mode, I decided to do a compression test and to my amazement I found out that I had compression in the cylinders with values between 8 and 11.2 BAR. (factory specs where between 14 & 14.6 BAR) I disassembled the engine and found deposits of calamine => (unburned gas) on all exhaust valves. I repaired the cylinder head and on that occasion I also changed the T.P.S. sensor. and the motorcycle worked better than ever. The whole situation with the calamine deposits and the decrease of the compression value in the cylinders and the repair of the cylinder head could have been avoided if I had changed the T.P.S. sensor from the first symptoms. So if you are looking for a quick fix, removing the secondary throttle valves and disconnecting the T.P.S. will let the engine rev freely, butt it's not a proper fix. My advice is to check the functionality of the T.P.S sensor and if you find that it is burned, do not cancel it by removing the plug and removing the secondary throttle valves, but replace it with a new one and you will not regret it. :) Best of luck 🤙
A common way to smooth out the clutch chatter on the 05/06 is to add the Belleville washer from the 07/08. The P/N is 21472-41G10. That and some EBC +10% clutch springs usually do it.
I have a 2020 Gsx-R 1000 and the engine braking is sooo smooth (obviously it has a slipper clutch), but when you go down gears it is sooo gentle, you hear the sound of the gears but hardly any jurking of the bike. 👍🏼💯❤️
Rokform needs to make a vibration dampener for their mount and it’ll def be the best mount, broke my iPhone 12 from vibrations so gonna have to get the quad lock with dampener
there is clutch adjustment on the k5....take off the big nut on the casing and the adjuster is inside it....also you done the riight thing taking off the power commander...bin it and flash the ecu....i'm not too sure but maybe the slipper clutch that they come standard with affects the engine braking....
My zx6r has wayyyyy more engine braking. I have a hard time even using EB in city driving it is so aggressive. I like to slow down further from the turn or stop that engine braking will allow. It’s perfect for hitting a corner hard.
The clutch thingy in 1st gear, might be a washer/bearing. Remember a thing with mine years ago. Suzuki tech said it was a washer or bearing. Inexpensive part wise, clutch out to replace though
If there's an airflow sensor or air pressure sensor, it might be the right moment to give it a check/clean and see if it fixes engine braking and idle.
I’ve had a lot of issues with my gs500f and one of those was it idling terribly. I took it to a shop twice and I tried correcting it myself. I cleaned carbs again, an did electrolysis on the tank to cut down the rust. It still does it but i believe it’s a leaking intake boot now because Even with new boots an clamps they don’t fit for shit and I can play with the fuel mixture screw or leave it on choke for a good few minutes an it does great however if I do mess with the screw after it warms up I’ll have to turn it back a few spins cause the revs will hang so hard you can’t shift too smoothly lol
So I noticed that you guys started the bike without pulling the clutch in. I'm assuming you have the clutch switch removed (the one under the clutch lever) and just jumped. DO NOT DO THAT because the bike will think it's in neutral the whole time you are riding and not switch to the riding map therefor it will run very lean and dump more fuel in the calenders and the bike will run funny. It took me about a month to figure out that this $20 plastic piece can ruin a bike. DO NOT REMOVE YOUR CLUTCH SWITCH YOUR BIKE WILL NOT RUN RIGHT
Also removing the clutch switch will cause loss in power because again you are riding on the neutral map not riding map (ECM have 2 maps on it). Also the throttle will feel very snappy and jurky and the clutch will feel weird. Trust me I've been through all of that
@@krp-xe3hw I think they started doing that on the new bikes but older suzukis I'm %100 sure you have to pull the clutch in to start unless you jump the wires and then you can start it without the cluct pulled in but then all the other problems start coming up and the FI light will come on as well code C40
Protect your phone with the YN tested and approved Rokform case! glnk.io/3rj1/yammie-noob Code “YN25” is 25% off!
Shop for all your gear, parts and tires at shop.yammienoob.co $1 = 1 Entry to win our giveaway bikes!
A GSXR is not a Gixxer they are two different bikes stop calling a GSXR a Gixxer
@@shaynejordaan8381 wrong I've owned mine 16yrs people call them gixxers,k6 ,gsxr1000, come on man any more knowledge than that
@@skatman3872 are they really I only speak when I know my facts just because everybody says gsxr is a gixxer Suzuki says other wise ps if this gets taken down know I didn't do anything wrong and its just a simple request and there is also no false advertising
Yammie🍠 LISTEN - The synth wave music was 10 times better than this ear 👂 piercing repeating 2009 free trash CZcams music bro come on don’t do this to us😟😔😞😒🥺😢😭😤🙄🤢🤮
I love it
My 2005 750
Yea just clicked 36000+ miles under me
Not pretty right now but runs sweet.
If you want to offload that 1000
I'll do any vid blogging about it's "new life" with me 😁
Forever 🥰
Don't sort it, riding a clapped out gsxr is the only way to ride is gsxr
It’s reliable for a reason. 💯😂
The secondary throttles are for increasing startup idle and smoothing the throttle inputs. A common mod is to remove the buttery plates which gives a more direct feel.
I owned my 2004 750 K5 for about 12 years, it has a lot of similarities. This bike is behaving similarly to mine for engine braking. It REALLY fluctuates engine braking whether or not you're in the power band. The bike sounds great and like a normal suzuki from that era. When I want to have more engine braking, I'll keep it a gear lower. Last thing i'd check is whether or not you're using stock tooth amounts on the sprockets.
These bikes really don't seem to like having power commanders in them unless you're doing a lot of ECU tuning. Nearly every time I listen to someone talking about reliability problems with GSX-R, they've put a power commander in it and don't store it in a garage.
Awesome bike!
These wrench-style videos are awesome. Real Busa Boi's know how to wrench in flip flops. HD ladies know how to open their wallets. 😘🤣
Wrench style? Bruh they took off the tank and airbox it's not exactly rocket science lol
I wouldn’t recommend Rokform mounts. It will kill your camera on your phone and make it shake. It’s a nice mount but needs a dampener like quad lock sells.
Its a problem with phones, they’re weak and cant handle the vibration
Question guys. In this video in the background there is a picture I've seen many times of the MotoGP bikes all turning in a line where did you get that picture I can't seem to find it anywhere and it is my favorite of all time
I second this....! I gotta know
It was taken from the MotoGP Assen in 2013. You can't see it in that picture, but Marquez was actually in the lead. In fact, there's a picture of Marquez running in front of Rossi.
I'm not a motorcycle mechanic, but in cars that second valve on the throttle body is an idle air control valve. Since small angle adjustments in the large throttle plate give you bigger adjustments in air volume than you would want at low rpms, they put in a second smaller valve that allows a small amount of air through and is often used to adjust the idle speed. Some cars even have a computer controlled solenoid on this valve to adjust the idle for various temperature and altitude changes.
You did the right thing taking the power commander off. I hate them bloody things. Every bike we had in at our garage, with a power commander, ran like crap. We took all of them off. The clutch issue is probably just worn out, burnt plates - it was a track bike afterall. Anybody that's ever said a gsxr 1000 is slow, is obviously just an Internet try hard bitch, that's likely never even rode a scooter
+1 on removing piggyback systems. I had both a PC5 and a Bazzaz unit crapout on me. Although still use the traction control+quick shifter of the bazzaz on my track ZX10R , works fine but stripped the fueling wires/connectors off. Those piggybacks work fine for a wile but they eventually start acting weird and make you loose your mind trying to figure out what the hell is going on (not knowing its the cause). Flash tune for life now.
ECU flash is the god-tier move - that's coming next
still rocking the full Bazzaz FI TC QS WITH NO PROBLEMS on my K6 GSXR 1000! love the tuneability of the unit. so easy to adjust fuel tables and map way better than dynojet. even got the TC adjuster switch and athe Fuel Map switch
A and B toggle feature for 91 premium and Mr12 on B map
@@calikid7116 Yeah the TC with +5/-5 adjuster on it rocks (and the edit table per throttle%, rpm and gear). That's why I kept the spark plug connector but removed the fueling portion. Its ''THE TC'' for all of us plebs that couldn't afford the next gen bikes with flipping 6 axis IMU sensors and more processors power than my gaming PC. Could even probably mine bitcoins when not using them :p
@@yammienoob should send that to Chris at Moore Mafia in Taylors SC. Now there's a guy that knows his Suzuki's.
It’s probably having issues engine Braking because of the clutch . They have a slipper clutch ( back torque limiting clutch) and if you’re having other clutch issues I’d start there. I’d check that you don’t have warped steels. Also check that it has free play down at the clutch pusher. It’s behind the big hex nut on the clutch cover. If that’s not adjusted correctly the clutch will not fully engage and cause it to slip. Don’t just check for free play at the lever.
Literally attempted to buy a Rokform mount but they don't offer a Samsung Galaxy 20 FE case. Trying to support the channel! Keep up the great work! Love your daily videos. Keeps me fired up to get out there on 2 wheels.
My kawi had a similar problem, i had to hold the throttle at like 2k for a couple minutes til the bike had "warmed up" and everything had been running for a little. I ended up pulling the throttle body off and cleaning it out, then adjusting the idle like spite did with that gxxr and it fixed it
Yam! Stva is a common problem on gixxers. Usually you'll get an FI light though if it has a problem, but still it can act funny. Although a common "mod" is to take the secondary butterfly valves out, but I wouldn't. They are there for a purpose. One of them is to give it more torque on lower revs. Taking the valves out is more acceptable on track bikes 'cause you eon't use the lower revs anyways.
Plus i would check the positions and readings of the main and secondary tp sensors.
Plus no2 suzuki ecu's can be easily tuned to a certain degree, a laptop and an SDS could do wonders.
Plus no3, if the clutch microswitch is hotwired (let's say, you don't want the hassle of pulling the clutch in to start the bike) it'll be functioning with a reduced power output. You could only use like roughly 75% of all the juice the bike has to offer.
Hope i could help.
Greetings from Hungary ✌️
A GSXR is not a Gixxer they are two different bikes stop calling a GSXR a Gixxer
What model is a gixxer so ?
Are you telling me that spite can be SARCASTIC???!!!
It's not the gixxer in general, go to the sprocket cover where the shaft is for clutch slide off and change degree on it creating slack for better adjustment
Yeah my bike had a exhaust gasket go missing got that fixed today now it's quiet and it will pass a inspection
This is the video I have been wanting for the 5 years or so of following you
I have a K6 also.. Great video! Thanks for informing of future possible issues..
It’s the bike, mine slows down allot when off the gas
OBD Paper clip trick will tell you were the TPS is set, and mabe lube the cable
As a recovering flip flop wearing gixxer bro, seeing and hearing that bike gives me withdrawal symptoms.
Do a video on the FZ6
Hey Spite, Which set of Flying Eyes are you wearing. I'm not seeing anything ont heir site that looks to have such thin arms.
When it comes to sport bikes that's about as pretty as they come, and it sounds nice too. Once all the issues (older bike) are sorted out it's going to be an amazing give a way machine. I'm 70 years old, so not good for me, ... but I still know a great looking bike when I see one.
🥰truth
Check your throttle position sensor, may need adjusting, super simple to do. Or you could have similar issue to what I had, my issue was at wide open throttle but the issue I found on my k7 was the mounting points on the tps had been broken, just cracked but this was enough for the sensor to not know the actual position of the butterfly.
Suzuki often didn't set TPS as accurately as the bike likes from the factory. They also wear out, eventually giving funny readings in the range they have been used most.
Correct TPS, balance the throttle bodies, then set idle.
If your referring to the top and lower flaps in the throttlebody‘s, the top flaps that are at-rest open are the choke flaps the lower flaps are the throttle flaps that are attached to the throttle cable/throttle cam, if everything is taken apart and you turn the key on the choke flaps should swipe closed and swipe open as a self check
Spite is discovering his inner Kyle with the 636 and the k5 GIXER THOW
So I’m not a gixxer guy but my FZ8 had secondary throttles like that that where computer controlled, which supposedly helped with low end torque and stuff. Not sure if that is what is going on with this bike but might be what those are.
I will say though, rokform destroyed my iPhone 12pro's camera
My Google pixel as well
Yeah it killed my IPhone XR. It would be perfect it they sold a dampener like Quad lock does.
Rokform banged my wife and now she’s pregnant again :(
Compression test for engine braking issue? That bike has enough power to hide that it's struggling during acceleration, but would have a harder time hiding things when stuff is going backwards.
I have an 06 that had same clutch “jerking” at take off. Never knew when it it was going to do this slip/jerk but is very annoying. They come factory with a slipper clutch that’s is 2-piece on the backside of the basket. I recommend replacing it with a Brock’s clutch mod SKU:270344 design for this very reason. While you’re at it go ahead and replace springs with Brock’s SKU:270331. Worth every penny and safer.
Moral of the story: Spite is now an official certified sport bike squid. Between Champ U and the T-BUSA, he has been broken.
do a fuel flow test. was having similar issues with my gsxr1000 turned out the fuel filter was clogged
It’s the throttle body actuator, my shop removed the secondaries at first believing it would help but the bike was having a throttle issue still, then they replaced the throttle body actuator still leaving the secondaries off and boom baby bike is perfect now
I believe the 2nd adjustment deal is all about the return, your not far away from getting this right
Clutch cover has a big o nut on it. Try twisting that one way or another. Fuel issues are they happening at warm to high engine temp: maybe a failing fuel pump.
This bike is literally Alex rins' 2021 season... all the gremlins
@Yammie Noob
The upper / secondary throttle valves are for the secondary injectors, and come into operation after 6000 k to provide additional fuel injection for better performance.
If you choose to cancel the secondary throttle valves in parallel with removing the connector from the TPS sensor, then the engine will run on all 8 injectors all the time and you will have a very unstable idle speed + when the engine is cold and will be turned on, the ECU will not be able to make the correct air-petrol mixture when the engine choke is engaged at start-up and risk to flood the engine / spark plugs after starting.
As a personal opinion, it would not be very wise to cancel the secondary throttle valves, they are meant to help the engine to have a stable idle speed.
As for the slippery clutch that you declare is not strong enough, it can be adjusted mechanically depending on how much to intervene or how little (according to the preferences of each individual).
It is adjusted from the three screws that are located in the clutch housing and can be accessed through the small investigation cover in the clutch cover.
These three screws form an equal triangle around the central clutch lever, you will surely find on youtube clips about the clutch adjustment for the 2005 - 2006 gsxr 1000, 750 & 600 ( they are all the same more or less ) .
I hope these explanations help you adjust this motorcycle gem.
Please excuse my writing, i'm not from Billy Microsoft's land :))
Greetings from Romania.💪
@@Giorgiochangretta11 Hi!
I had exactly the same problem you described with a 2006 kawasaki 636.
The throttle position sensor (T.P.S.) broke down and kept my secondary throttle in an almost closed position, so the motorcycle did not turn more than 4000 - 5000 k regardless of the gear I was in.
I removed the secondary throttle valves and removed the plug from the T.P.S. , and apparently the problem was fixed, but the cold starts were a bit problematic, in the sense that the motorcycle tended to flood with gasoline, and after the engine started, the idle speed fluctuated, and there was a strong smell of unburned gas.
At the same time, in full acceleration, the motorcycle emitted black smoke, which, going hand in hand with unburned gases, meant that there was a rich mixture of gasoline.
After about a year of riding the motorcycle in this mode, I decided to do a compression test and to my amazement I found out that I had compression in the cylinders with values between 8 and 11.2 BAR. (factory specs where between 14 & 14.6 BAR)
I disassembled the engine and found deposits of calamine => (unburned gas) on all exhaust valves.
I repaired the cylinder head and on that occasion I also changed the T.P.S. sensor. and the motorcycle worked better than ever.
The whole situation with the calamine deposits and the decrease of the compression value in the cylinders and the repair of the cylinder head could have been avoided if I had changed the T.P.S. sensor from the first symptoms.
So if you are looking for a quick fix, removing the secondary throttle valves and disconnecting the T.P.S. will let the engine rev freely, butt it's not a proper fix.
My advice is to check the functionality of the T.P.S sensor and if you find that it is burned, do not cancel it by removing the plug and removing the secondary throttle valves,
but replace it with a new one and you will not regret it. :)
Best of luck
🤙
A common way to smooth out the clutch chatter on the 05/06 is to add the Belleville washer from the 07/08. The P/N is 21472-41G10. That and some EBC +10% clutch springs usually do it.
The idle should be a constant low pitch whine. The throttle bodies need to be synced.
I'm still waiting for my phone call telling me I won this bike.
I have a 2020 Gsx-R 1000 and the engine braking is sooo smooth (obviously it has a slipper clutch), but when you go down gears it is sooo gentle, you hear the sound of the gears but hardly any jurking of the bike. 👍🏼💯❤️
try reviewing the latest shape gsxr 1000 and compare it with this one
I just became a gixxer bro this week. 750s are insane enough I can't imagine a 1000
Great video, nice job, Spite. Compare the Kawasaki 636 vs. R6 vs GSX-R 600
Rokform needs to make a vibration dampener for their mount and it’ll def be the best mount, broke my iPhone 12 from vibrations so gonna have to get the quad lock with dampener
It might be the slipper-clutch. Lack of / insufficient engine brake and shifting issues. Both count together…
Yeah the slipper clutch mainly affects 0 to 8 mph like it bucks a lil if your not feathering the clutch on my 04 Busa
@@chillwill7401 worn out plates or springs might cause the slipper clutch slip in acceleration/deceleration or even chatter between shifts.
You know what doesn't have an issue? Those F'n wheels
The throttle bodies needs to be synced..
there is clutch adjustment on the k5....take off the big nut on the casing and the adjuster is inside it....also you done the riight thing taking off the power commander...bin it and flash the ecu....i'm not too sure but maybe the slipper clutch that they come standard with affects the engine braking....
Best thing yall could have done was to get rid of PC junk clutch push rod maybe outta adjustment or the slipper clutch adjusters may need to be set
You guys impressed how you put in Dat work 💪
The evolutions of Spite's squidification since joining yamminoob has been amazing.
I'm pretty sure that 2nd set of valves is idle control system.
Needs a valve/spring job.......when you back off the throttle the exhaust valves aren't fully seated which causes lower than normal back pressure
Itd be cool if you posted symptoms so mechanics that consume your content can help with diagnostics
Throttles on gixxers need to be synced I believe. The ergos are fine spite 😜
Just removed pc5 and all my problems went away thanks viewer for the heads-up
Looked like I saw BST carbon wheels- probably with ceramic bearings which would explain the lack of ‘engine braking’ feel
Your office block also has another motorcycle place owned by Cazn Bob? I thought the other guy was Josh for a sec, but he might be Bob's mech.
My k6 has minimal engine braking as well. My 21 will engine brake to a stop almost
Ain't got no gas in it
Change the engine oil. The previous owner probably thought they could run car oil in it.
Why is it so similar to my 750 K6? I wonder 😂
My zx6r has wayyyyy more engine braking. I have a hard time even using EB in city driving it is so aggressive. I like to slow down further from the turn or stop that engine braking will allow. It’s perfect for hitting a corner hard.
You might just need to torque down the clutch basket spring bolts
The clutch thingy in 1st gear, might be a washer/bearing. Remember a thing with mine years ago. Suzuki tech said it was a washer or bearing. Inexpensive part wise, clutch out to replace though
Hey guys Great vid awesome job, so I brought all these thumbs ups for ya algorithms 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🔥🚀
Hey yammie I'm newer to ridding. Have you or could you do a vid about ridding at night?
If there's an airflow sensor or air pressure sensor, it might be the right moment to give it a check/clean and see if it fixes engine braking and idle.
yes bike will run like shite if they are not correct...
Thanks for fixing it before she comes home to me
Excellent encouragement for the kiddos 😀teaching wrenching 🦾🦾🦾🤘🤟💯☝
I don’t think the map effects the idle on a bike like that? There should be an idle screw or maybe even 2
Probably needs new clutch cable😀
What?
Sounds like someone made a tre mod onit , that's the exact things you get from it
I’ve had a lot of issues with my gs500f and one of those was it idling terribly. I took it to a shop twice and I tried correcting it myself. I cleaned carbs again, an did electrolysis on the tank to cut down the rust. It still does it but i believe it’s a leaking intake boot now because Even with new boots an clamps they don’t fit for shit and I can play with the fuel mixture screw or leave it on choke for a good few minutes an it does great however if I do mess with the screw after it warms up I’ll have to turn it back a few spins cause the revs will hang so hard you can’t shift too smoothly lol
What would cause a hard engine-braking 4 stroke dirt bike to suddenly not have any engine-braking?
At 74 I need a 1000 to keep my Hayabusa company 🦅🇺🇸🦅🏍
Ps mine is a 2022 Busa
Oh shooooooot you live in Austin??? I seen that on ramp a knew awesome!!
This is a scam^^^^^
Man i wanna join the discord but your website apparently dosnt like canadians big sad
next time use clear tape for that phone 😉
I know what's wrong with it!
Ain't got no gas in it!
Busa reference @11:52
“We’re done riding street bikes”
Never mind fixing the bike, can we please get Spite some product for that hair ?
What are those boom gates on the back road for?
Clutch plates ?
I’m betting it’s the throttle position sensor they are notoriously finicky
That bike is clapped out lol but the k6 is still one of my favourite race bikes, I love u guys, have fun on that gsxr!
clogged evaporator is a possibility
The gsxr lobes like that at idle
Time to unpimp your moto.
VW gang baby
Not bad for the nub 🦅🇺🇸🦅🏍
Yeah, there's not a poor person riding it
A suggestion......take it to a professional.
I have a pc 5 on mine
Just use the CHOKE on that thing . . . ;P
So I noticed that you guys started the bike without pulling the clutch in. I'm assuming you have the clutch switch removed (the one under the clutch lever) and just jumped. DO NOT DO THAT because the bike will think it's in neutral the whole time you are riding and not switch to the riding map therefor it will run very lean and dump more fuel in the calenders and the bike will run funny. It took me about a month to figure out that this $20 plastic piece can ruin a bike. DO NOT REMOVE YOUR CLUTCH SWITCH YOUR BIKE WILL NOT RUN RIGHT
Also removing the clutch switch will cause loss in power because again you are riding on the neutral map not riding map (ECM have 2 maps on it). Also the throttle will feel very snappy and jurky and the clutch will feel weird. Trust me I've been through all of that
Idk if it's the same or not but my 2022 hayabusa does not require you to pull the clutch in to start IF you are in neutral. I just did it to confirm.
@@krp-xe3hw I think they started doing that on the new bikes but older suzukis I'm %100 sure you have to pull the clutch in to start unless you jump the wires and then you can start it without the cluct pulled in but then all the other problems start coming up and the FI light will come on as well code C40
Balance the throttle bodies