Chevrolet Corvette C6 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement - Axle Shaft
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- This is a video to show how I replaced my rear wheel bearing assembly on my 2007 Corvette C6 Base.
Please see your manual. The parts may look the same but they might be different and the torque specs may differ.
I used a Moog Bearing assembly from Advanced Auto and it comes with a three year warranty.
You will need a new Axle Nut from GM. This is a one use item. Axle Nut part number is 10257766.
Also see GM Service bulletin: 05-04-95-001
Tighten the drive axle spindle nut to 118 Lb Ft.
OK... So a month after this video was made my Axle Shaft broke, Axle Shaft part Number is 22762284. I was going to do another video but I found just pulling the hub, you can slide the axle shaft right out of the differential and the new one slides right in.
You can replace the seal. It is #3 on the parts fiche list 19259473. But it is probably not necessary.
Great video and narration! A lot of folks don't appreciate the time and effort it takes to make these videos.
Kudos!
FYI: the caps can be removed from the C6 wheels while still mounted, exposing the axle nuts. I recommend loosening the nut while the wheels are still on the ground, it will make your life significantly easier.
Good tip... You can also leave the opposite side of the car on the ground.
This video is great! I replaced both wheel bearings and I used this video as a tutorial. The only addition is that I had to use a ball joint separator as the ball joints were stuck too tight. On the second wheel, I did not remove the shock and that did not pose any problems and sped the whole process up. Great Video, thanks!
I have a 2012 GS Vert. This was a very helpful video and gave me direction on how to proceed on this process to save myself over a thousand dollars from the "stealership". Well done. I've done the front and that was presented by 1A Auto (for anyone needing to know). Your explanation was spot on and it was applied to completion. Kudos to you.
Just wanted to say thank you for this. Used it today !! Guys watch first then do lol !! Took only about 20-30 mins a side
Nice video, thanks for posting.
You quote the service manual torque on the axle nut (118 lb/ft). However there is a service bulletin (07-04-95-001) that revises the torque to 160 lb/ft and specifies Loctite 272 (and 24 hours before driving to allow cure time).
You are correct.
People have used the revised torque spec and snapped their axle nuts as well. Its kinda up in the air tbh
Just finished doing this in my 06 Z06. Just a few pointers:
My nut on the lower control arm would not come off unless the axle was off, so I had to remove the upper one first and move the hub around until the axle came off.
Also, the lower control arm ball joint was the biggest PITA for me. I tried first with the harbor freight separator, but it was to small to fit the long stud holding the joint. I had to purchase one of those fork looking attachments and hammer the crap out of it until it came off.
Lastly, before you remove the rotor, make sure you pull your handbrake up and down a few times and then leave it in the down position. I forced it out and the little spring came off, which wasn't a big deal since I had to remove the hub off anyway.
Good luck. I did this for the first time and took me a solid 3 hours, taking my time and going through the issues.
PS - a strong impact gun will be a life saver here when removing that axle nut and T55 bolts!!! Saved me a ton of time.
My impact wouldn't get the T55s out. I wound up using a torch, followed by my floor jack handle over a breaker bar to break them loose. Red Loc-Tite is a PITA.
David Lively yes a regular electric impact won’t do it. My ingersoll rand 20V with 1100 ftlb has turned out to be a great investment
Just ordered both rear wheel bearing assys for my C5. Thanks for the step by step.
Don't forget two new axle nuts and red Locktite for the nuts. Good luck.
Thanks for the time to make this, very helpful.
Hi Mike. Great Video. Just to help your viewers. Here is the updated TSB from GM on the Vette. The Torque specs on the axle nut is actually 160 Foot Pounds. Take care Bro.
Subject: Tapping or Scraping Noise From Rear Wheel Area (Replace Wheel Drive Shaft Nut) #07-04-95-001 - (09/26/2007)
2005-2008 Chevrolet Corvette
Condition
Some customers may comment on a tapping or a scraping noise coming from the rear wheel area.
Cause
This condition may be due to the torque on the wheel drive shaft nut relaxing over time.
Correction
Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.
Remove the center cap from the rim.
Remove and discard the wheel drive shaft nut.
Apply LOCTITE™ 272, or equivalent, to the threads of the axle shaft.
Install the nut and tighten to the new specification.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 215 N·m (160 lb ft).
Install the center cap to the rim.
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
10257766
Nut
2 (one per side)
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
F9712*
Wheel Drive Shaft Nut - Replace
0.3 hr
*This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Great info: Thanks.
Another tip which I didn't show but is on my car is the old Nut on top of the new nut to help lock them in place.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Dang good tutorial.
I use blue lock tight not red. Red makes bolts near to impossible to remove down the road for the next guy. Thanks for the video
Red is what the Service bulliten calls for. The axle nut is a one time use item. Don't second guess safety.
Don’t know if it’s right or not but I doubt a garage waits 24 hrs before customers pick up their car
And I would suggest putting anti oxygen spray or ceramic lube on high hats and inside the rotor (mating surfaces)
Just to keep corrosion to a minimum
Like the video 👍
It is in the service manual. Do don't see why a dealership would not make you wait. Sadly, they make people wait for much less service activities... Not sure I have waited 24 hours. Usually just do the job and leave the car parked until the next morning. Then do the test drive.
This was very helpful. Though, I wish my knuckle had come off of the lower ball joint as easily as yours did.
I'm in the same boat lol. Had to stop for the night because my lower ball joint doesn't want to just slip out like his did.
Layne Patrick this is vague, but: the spring exerts pressure on the control arm. If you’ve got the car sitting correctly, a few taps (bangs) on the knuckle near the lower ball joint will loosen it enough for the *spring* to push the control arm down. If the knuckle is still attached at the top - no nut needed, just with that stud in the knuckle hole - will let the spring push the lower arm down, separating the two.
Layne Patrick just make sure the control arm can move and the knuckle is secured at the top, and let physics do it’s thing. That means the jack or stand can’t be under the control arm, because it needs to move. Whatever you do, do NOT hit the ball joint studs with a hammer. It’ll make the hex insert unusable and you’ll be buying new control arms.
@@xnadave Thanks for the advice!
@@laynepatrick175 One more tip: if you put the rotor back on the knuckle and secure it with a couple of lug nuts, you can put your floor jack under the rotor. (It'll be fine.) That'll let the spring press down harder on the LCA. (Apologies for the barrage of messages. I spent a LONG time getting that thing off and I hate to see others go through the same painful learning process unnecessarily.)
Super awesome how to video thank you I'm going out to do mine right now!
thanks
Thank you for the great video, I used it for a refresher as I'm about to do my third hub on an 05 C6, and that's with less than 40K on the car.
Why did you remove the lower shock attachment? I have not done that and didn't seem to have any issue because of the shock mount remaining intact.
I have had to press the bearing out of the steering knuckle (on the rear), I noticed yours seemed to slip right out. I don't understand why that would be any different from the front unless the clearance is different for the rear. Was there a step you didn't include in the video?
Regarding your comment on the axle nut, how would the wheel come off because of this nut? The wheel is attached to the hub which is firmly mounted to the steering knuckle which is securely mounted by the ball joints to the suspension arms. The "nut" merely holds the half shaft to the hub. If the axle nut should come lose, it may damage the half shaft or CV joints or even differential, you would likely have some serious damage, but it seems the wheel would certainly remain on the car.
Regarding removing the hub from the knuckle: If you thread the bolts back in a few turns, you can tap the bolt head - preferably separated by a block of wood or something to avoid deforming the bolts - with a mallet or soft hammer to push the hub / bearing out a bit.
What’s the name of the bolt to get the wheel bearing nut off
Awesome
Sounds like I'm going to need one of my rear wheel bearings replaced on my '08 C-6. Sounds like the driver's side but can't be sure since I'm sitting in the driver's seat when I hear it, so it still could be the passenger side. It's been making a little noise for a while now, and it's starting to get more pronounced. I really don't want to go to the dealership since I know they are going to "take me to the cleaners" on it, or maybe even insist it's the rear diff failing. I know how unethical dealerships can be. Maybe I can find someone else to do it. It's good to see common tools can do the job. Mine is a southern car so chances of a rusty situation is not all that great.
Had the very same problem on my Subaru a few years ago and the dealer insisted it was the transmission going bad. Took it to a private garage where he confirmed it was just the wheel bearing/hub. The dealer wanted $4,000+ to do the transmission rebuild, and I don't even know if they would have actually done the rebuild, instead just charging me for the job. I got the bearing/hub replaced for a bit over $300.
You could do one and if that doesn't fix it, you still have saved enough money to replace the other. I bought mine from Advance. You can get OEM from eBay pretty cheap. Do not forget to buy the new OEM axle nut and red Loctite.
You took the axle nut off that was speced to 160ft-lbs, but you only tightened the new one back on at 100ft-lbs?
I'm aiming to upgrade my wheel bearings for track work on slicks in the near future on my C5 Z06 (underside is almost entirely the same as C6). Looks like it will be a few days of fun wrenching on the Vette again!
I assure you that my Axle nuts are as close to 160 as I can get them... And the old axle nuts are used as a lock nuts. I have 100K miles on the car since that video was shot without any issues.
What was the tool size for the tie rod bolt star wrench
T55 it's what I used
Nice vid any specs on a-arm bolts or tie rod
I don't post torque specs in case my car differs from yours.
you torque # are 160 then 100 then 118 which one is the good one
It is in your shop manual. The final torque on you axle nut with RED locktite is 160 and then let the car sit for 24 hours. Do not drive the car when this job is complete.
are you a 130 guy?